4d56 do-it-yourself pump repair

In detail: 4d56 do-it-yourself pump repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The high pressure fuel pump, in short - high pressure fuel pump is an integral part of modern diesel engines. The high-pressure fuel pump is designed to supply fuel to the cylinders in strictly defined quantities in certain cycles of the diesel engine.

Fuel pumps differ in the type of fuel injection:

direct injection of a diesel engine (the supply of a diesel engine and its injection into the cylinders take place simultaneously);
battery injection (pressurized fuel is accumulated in a special "accumulator" and then supplied to the injectors).

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Also, high pressure fuel pumps may differ among themselves in types, pumps can be of the following designs:

in-line;
multi-section;
distribution.

If you do not go into the "jungle" of design differences between pumps of different types, then you can simply identify certain differences between them. In in-line and multi-section pumps, each section supplies diesel to its "own" cylinder. In distribution pumps, one "block" is capable of supplying several cylinders with diesel.

Also, another difference between the injection pump is their "power" - the number of cylinders the pump is designed for and its pressure. In general, these are all obvious differences between the pumps. In general, these are the main differences between the pumps.Now we will no longer torment our readers with theories about the operation of injection pumps and their primitive characteristics, which have long been described on the Internet in large quantities. Let's move on to the immediate specifics.

The engine manufacturer Mitsubishi is deliberately omitted here. This is due to the fact that at the moment there are several derivatives of this engine. Accordingly, they have a minimum of design differences, and the injection pump is suitable for both motors.

Video (click to play).

To be more specific, this is the same engine as the Hyundai D4BH, the pump for it has full compatibility with the 4D56T internal combustion engine (the differences between the 4D56 and 4D56T internal combustion engines are insignificant, the "T" index indicates a turbocharged engine).

The pump itself for the above engines, there is only one, produced by Zexel (aka Diezel Kiki), and now BOSCH. Yes, final suppliers and packaging may vary, but in the end, injection pumps for these motors can only be obtained from Zexel or BOSCH.

Basically, the accelerated output of the injection pump on these engines is caused by low quality fuel, as well as by the ingress of foreign elements into the system, which often occurs when loose connections and driving over rough terrain, fords, etc.

The main problems with the injection pump on these engines are as follows:

Damage (due to accelerated wear) of the internal parts of the pump - the plunger pair, bearings and other parts.
Contamination of the filter (protective mesh and element) due to the ingress of foreign elements into the system.
Increased or floating revolutions due to the so-called. "Airing" of the system - the ingress of air into the system due to loose connections and worn out gaskets and seals.
Poor engine start in cold weather, caused by a jammed or broken thermostat (located on the left side of the pump, injection advance mechanism).
Other breakdowns associated with the rest of the elements - spark plugs, automatic heating, fuel supply, diesel injection advance angle settings.

Until now, the debate about which injection pump for 4D56 / 4M40 / D4BH engines is better, electronic or mechanical, does not subside. How big are the differences in the injection pump themselves and the attachment electronics for the pumps. Is it relevant to replace an electronic fuel pump with a mechanical one.Let's take a closer look.

So, the main difference in this moment is not the pump itself, but the equipment (electronics or mechanics) that activates the fuel supply system, depending on one or another mode of engine operation. In a mechanical injection pump, activation occurs due to the direct mechanical control of the injection pump. A cable runs from the gas pedal to the pump, which controls the system. In an electronic injection pump (EFI), the gas pedal is already electronic and the system is activated through the accompanying electronic units and sensors.

There is also a version about the existence of a cable drive for controlling an electronic injection pump (there is a control rheostat on the pump itself), but our editorial staff could not verify the reliability of this particular information.

Structural diagram of a mechanical pump:

The advantages of a mechanical injection pump:

ease of maintenance;
reliability (due to fewer electronic components and sensors, which often "love" fail);
cost, as a rule, mechanical pumps are cheaper than their electronic "counterparts".

Disadvantages of a mechanical injection pump:

the absence of any indication systems and the quality of the units;
the need to fine-tune the parameters and monitor the state of all related elements of the system (spark plugs, fuel pump, diesel injection timing device);
increased consumption compared to an electronic pump.
slightly worse traction performance at high rpm compared to an electronic pump.

Structural diagram of an electronic pump:

The advantages of an electronic injection pump:

more stable operation of the engine, the absence of "floating" revolutions with serviceable accompanying elements (candles, injection advance mechanism, etc.), including electronic components and sensors;
reduced fuel consumption compared to a mechanical pump;
traction performance at high rpm is slightly better than that of vehicles equipped with mechanical pumps;
the ability to read errors through electronic control units.

Disadvantages of electronic injection pump:

a large number of sensors and other electronics, and this complicates vehicle repairs and increases the cost of maintenance;
difficulties in finding some electronic components;
difficulties in the selection of the pump itself and its components, since there are a large number of different variations with hinged electronics and they are different depending on the make and model of the car;
the reliability of electronic pump units is lower than that of mechanical ones, since electronic components and sensors can often fail.

Before proceeding with the description of the process of removing the pump from the car, it should be mentioned that this article is not a guide to work on a specific car!

Zexel injection pump (aka Diezel Kiki or BOSCH) is equipped with a large number of cars with 4D56, 4M40, D4BH engines. Moreover, this family of engines is installed on completely different cars in terms of their characteristics and arrangement of units, such as Pajero Sport and Hyundai Oldax, so the attachments will be different in most cases. We will just talk about the pump removal process in general terms, without delving into the design differences between cars of different brands equipped with these engines and pumps.

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Here one difficulty is to get to one of the 3 bolts. There are only two options:

Disassemble the drive (carefully, there is a powerful spring! + REMEMBER the setting of the adjusting bolt), and then calmly unscrew the rest.

Unscrew 2 "light" bolts under the key "by 10", loosen the third, "heavy" one, and pushing the assembly aside, slowly unscrew it.

It should look like this:

Yellow - O-ring
Red- adjusting bolt of the automatic advance switch
Green - the cover of the advancing machine.
Remember (write down) the bolt head protrusion (red arrow) above the cover (green arrow). If in the process you decide to unscrew this bolt, during assembly it will be necessary to return the dimensions to their original state.
Blue - the axis of the speed regulator.
Black - mating plane.

Attention! For pumps with RIGHT rotation, the thread on the shaft will be LEFT and vice versa!

If you can find a tool, unscrew the pressure regulator.

Now the fun begins. Parsing includes nodes consisting of several parts. Moreover, the details cannot "live" without each other. That is, they simply cannot be confused with each other.

Red - pressure valve body
Green - spring returnable
Blue - valve needle
Yellow - valve seat
Black - sealing washer.

The plug under the red arrow does not need to be unscrewed; it serves to install the indicator. The fact is that the ignition on diesels is placed not so much on the marks. Rather, initially, the moment of injection is set according to the indicator, and only then the mark that we see is applied. We will omit this procedure for now, the turn will come to it.

So, turn off the cap (blue arrow). This is where the gas wrench comes in handy. The thread of the plug is right-hand.

Blue - plunger body
Red - plunger.

At this stage, it is necessary to measure the amount by which the plunger sinks into the body. We measure the results, write them down, they will come in handy during assembly.

We release the fastening screws (but not completely), and gently shaking, we move the plunger body up. As soon as it is free, we finally unscrew the screws and remove the plunger body. You should get the following picture:

Blue - plunger
Yellow - dosing ring
Red - washer - bearing
Brown - base plate
Black - spring
Green - adjusting washers.

Black - Plunger Shim
Red - cam washer.
Green - fuel delivery lever. I managed to take it off earlier.

Attention!! We do not remove the videos, we do not change them in places.

Remove the stopper (shown with a screwdriver).

We see a pin under the stopper.Shown also with a screwdriver (it is magnetized, the pin can be easily removed by it).

Remove the cam washer drive.

In the interior of the vacated space, push the axis of the advancing automaton:

For convenience, I deleted 1 video, there is nothing criminal here. Pull the roller ring outward for the axis of the advancing automaton. Caution, do not use unnecessary effort! At the slightest misalignment, the ring wedges in the body. Attempts to pull it out "insolently" will end in disrepair - the pump casing will be scrapped.

It should look something like this:

For the 2 "horns" sticking out in the depths of the pump, we take out the pump shaft with the gear of the regulator:

We return to the "remains" of the pump:

We release the bolts (blue arrows) and take out the booster pump cover (red arrow).

We turn over the pump housing.

We remove the oil seal (shown with a screwdriver). Warning - don't try to save it, it won't work anyway.

As a result, a bare body with a bushing pressed into it should remain. Like this:

There is no more complex and critical unit in a diesel engine than the fuel injection system, more precisely, its main part - the high-pressure fuel pump. Many mating parts, high-loaded units, the presence of a precision dosing system, make the repair of the injection pump a difficult task even in service conditions. It is all the more difficult to repair the high pressure fuel pump of a diesel engine with your own hands.

In automotive technology, almost everything is repaired, except, perhaps, individual oil seals and cuffs, the repair of which is impossible without special materials. The complexity of setting, diagnosing and repairing the injection pump requires the employee to have skills in working with precision mechanics.

It is simply impossible to adjust according to the factory parameters, without a special diagnostic stand for the repair of the injection pump. During the diagnostic study of the injection pump, it is necessary to check:

cyclic supply of the high-pressure pump, in the entire range of revolutions of the injection pump shaft, at start-up, and after cutting off the fuel supply;
stability of the developed pressure;
uniformity of the injection pump delivery to the fuel injector.

Even having access to a diagnostic stand, and having studied the issue of repairing a high-pressure fuel pump using numerous videos, it is very difficult to qualitatively check and evaluate its work.

In heavy diesel engines, plunger, in-line injection pumps are used. In maintenance and repair, such devices are more difficult, since they require special equipment for its disassembly, therefore we will not consider such high pressure fuel pumps and their repair.

In a passenger diesel engine, a distribution type injection pump is almost always used. Unlike in-line pumps, in a distribution pump, the force is transmitted to the plunger using a profiled cam washer. The design of the injection pump turned out to be more compact, but it is hardly simpler to expect to carry out its repair on the knee.

The most famous and affordable is the Bosh VP44 injection pump. Often, the need to repair the pump internals arises when:

poor traction and incomplete combustion of fuel even under ideal conditions - in the absence of load and a thoroughly warmed up engine;
a sudden failure and stoppage of a diesel engine under load, which is called “death on takeoff”. Usually the scanner in such cases diagnoses the code P1630 and P1651.
the appearance of a diesel fuel leak in the area of the gland seal of the central shaft of the injection pump.

Therefore, we will restrict ourselves to the issue of repairing the injection pump with our own hands by replacing the seals and eliminating the scoring of the working surfaces of the parts.

Before disassembling the pump drive shaft seal, try to move it radially. If play is felt with your hands, it is possible that the reason for the leakage of fuel is the wear of the working surface of the shaft or requires repair of the bearing.

A large number of split planes and mating surfaces of parts required the use of a large number of seals and glands. As a rule, they are made of quality material and last long enough until they are damaged during repair or maintenance. In this case, standard repair kits are used for DIY repair of Bosch injection pumps.

It is quite easy to replace the seal on the shaft position sensor and on the automatic injection timing during repairs. For a better fit, you can drip a few drops of spindle or engine oil onto new rings and rubber bands.

For preventive repair of a Bosch injection pump with your own hands, you will need to disassemble the pump in approximately the following order:

remove the metering valve from the end of the injection pump. To do this, unscrew the four screws of the pressure plate, carefully release the cable of the injection advance valve. By removing the three screws securing the metering valve, you can carefully remove it from the seat;

by unscrewing the fastener on the top cover, you can remove the control board and gain access to the electronics;
we set the position of the shaft, as shown in the photo, remove the camera and get access to the insides of the injection pump;

after dismantling the bearing using a special puller, we get the opportunity to study the potential culprit for the poor performance of the injection pump - the piston of the injection advance unit. There is often surface wear and edge scuffing on the part. You can try to make repairs by polishing the surface, replacing the whole part is much more expensive.

After the repair, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order with the washing of the parts with diesel fuel.

Often, in addition to scoring, on the surface of the pistons there is another reason why the injection pump does not develop the required pressure. This can be due to debris, films or wax build-up on the filter screen inside the pump. There is a mesh on the side of the inlet pipe. Rinsing the channels is a troublesome and ineffective business, it is easier to remove the mesh and blow it with compressed air.

Torn pieces of debris can jam the plunger piston or even break or break the pump drive shaft. Therefore, cleaning should be done very carefully to avoid contamination of the internal cavities of the pump.

Among the many reasons for the failure of the electronic "liver" of the injection pump, the most common is the breakage or burnout of the contacts of the control board and the failure of power transistors. If the knowledge and skills of working with electronic devices allow to carry out a "continuity" of the transistor performance and repair, it is worth trying to identify the cause and replace the culprit with a serviceable element.

To check the condition of the "culprit", you need to carefully open the black cover, which is tightly seated on the rubber seal with screws. It should be removed carefully so as not to damage the seal itself.

The reason for the failure of not only the transistor, but also the entire board could be air trapped in the cavity due to poor performance of the drainage system or the check valve. Often, they try to eliminate the airing by spinning up with a starter, hoping to pump diesel fuel into the high-pressure fuel pump in this way. At this moment, the transistor is open and loaded as much as possible, which leads to intense heating. In an air environment with poor heat dissipation, it will inevitably burn out. In some German cars there is a protection that prevents an attempt to start the engine in the absence of fuel in the highway. For this, a fuel sensor in the tank is used.

Failure of the transistor can be established by "dialing" a tester or by its appearance. The best option for repairing such a malfunction would be to replace the entire control board. Perhaps it is more expensive than soldering, but it will give guaranteed quality and stable operation of the injection pump after repair. As a last resort, give the board and the transistor for soldering to electronics specialists.

When installing and reassembling after repairs, check the tightness of all fasteners.

If during the audit you did not make rash and unreasonable replacements of parts, the assembled pump should work with approximately the same parameters as before. Bosch EPS-815 stand is used as a standard for testing and adjusting injection pump after overhaul.

The video shows how to raise the plunger pressure in a Bosch VE injection pump:

“Diesel Market"- Spare parts for engines: pistons, rings, liners, gaskets, sprayers, candles, plunger pairs, high pressure fuel pumps

AUTOWELT - spare parts for engines of Japanese and European cars

DENSODIESEL - the central distributor of DENSO for diesel injection systems in Russia

Smoke on a cold one is usually bluish, the main reason for the appearance of smoke due to candles is the correct operation of candles for these engines is about 14 seconds. heating then starting, and after that the candles keep heating for some time until the engine warms up for stable operation. In your case, most likely one of the candles does not work, or it is not fully heated, or not correct (that is, heating not the tip of the candle but its middle is all easy to check)
therefore, while the engine has not warmed up, it undergoes and smokes, since the diesel fuel does not completely burn out, in rare cases this is due to a decrease in pressure in the injectors.

As we noticed, if driving without a balancing belt suits you, then there is nothing to worry about, usually its absence causes a slight vibration at idle, and a hum when driving from 90 km / h more

A small breather is permissible, after all, the engine is not new, the consumption of diesel fuel for the city is normal, as a rule, oil seal leaks (unless of course it does not affect oil consumption with a roach), but it would be better if there were no leaks!

Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]

Message Sergey27 "14 Jul 2009, 14:05

Message Shadow from Omsk "14 Jul 2009, 14:30

Message Sergey27 "15 Jul 2009, 16:09

Thanks for the ambulance)
We tried to feed directly into the nose itself, bypassing all filters using a boat bulb for fuel supply.
Once it started up, and that was the end of the show) It took 6 hours, but everything was bestlocked. I took off the injection pump, took it for repeated diagnostics, and I am 100% sure to another service in the motor. My assumptions were confirmed. the plunger pair welled up.
The repair cost 9500 rubles. But having put the repaired high pressure fuel pump, the car started up only from the pusher.
There is a suspicion that the air goes through the piston rings, into the potdon, and then through the crankcase ventilation. through the sopun to the outside. Since the car is not yet fully assembled, it is not yet possible to check the further behavior of the car.
Tomorrow everything will be clear =)
But one thing is not clear! As the car 2 times came to the service on its own, there were no complaints about the pump. Since the car would start in any weather, and in any frost.
How could he fail so abruptly? Maybe there are some considerations?