4d56 do-it-yourself turbine repair

Details: 4d56 do-it-yourself turbine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Tell me, has anyone tried to repair a 4D56 turbine ?? As far as I know, the bushing in the turbine wears out! Is it possible to carve it at the turner?? Generally advice-oil throws strongly!

to Texservis93:

Well, you can fix it. If the arms grow from the shoulders, and the head from the neck and is not stuffed with foam rubber, then there is nothing complicated about it. The only thing is that you need to buy a turbine repair kit.

Here I found a ready-made manual for repairing a turbine. True, there is a different turbine. But the filling is the same.

On the removed turbine, we unscrew all the fittings and unscrew the bolts for fastening the snails of the compressor and turbine parts.

The compressor scroll is usually removed without problems, the turbine usually sticks tightly. There aren't many ways to get rid of it. The first is in Russian with a mallet, but it is better to use the snail fastening bolts and slowly move the snail aside. The snail itself sits on a cone, so you have to work hard. Unscrew gradually, a little bit and evenly from all sides. Make sure that the turbine wheel is not deformed. The complexity of this method depends on the design of the turbine, on the GT17 I had to use a mallet.

Removing the compressor scroll is done in different ways. On the GT25 it is secured with a retaining ring, on the GT17 with bolts. The main thing is not to lose the puck!

Having unscrewed the bolts or removed the retaining ring carefully, so as not to damage the wheel, remove the snail.

When the cartridge is already in our hands, we check the play of the shaft. There should be no longitudinal play, the transverse one can be felt, but it should not dangle a millimeter back and forth. Although backlash or non-backlash TKR does not mean that the turbine will not eat oil so that the oil consumption will be equal to the gasoline consumption.

Video (click to play).

Next, you need to remove the compressor wheel. To do this, you need to use wire cutters with sliding jaws, while the other end of the shaft is clamped with a figured mandrel or whatever is suitable. It should not be forgotten that thread on the compressor shaft LEFT.

The compressor wheel is unlikely to come off the shaft by itself, so you will have to use a conventional universal puller.

Be sure to mark the relative position of the nut and wheels relative to each other so as not to disturb the balance.

The o-rings are held in place by circlips and the shaft bushings are held in place with three T15 bolts and it is usually the bushings that cause the backlash.

From the end part, the liners are held with the help of retaining rings, there will be no problems with this.

The compressor side liner is held by one circlip and the turbine side liner by two circlips.

Thoroughly clean the cartridge from dirt, carbon deposits and deposits. Clean the wheels and remove the O-ring from the shaft

Next, you should already have a repair kit for your TKR. A typical repair kit contains a complete set of seals, rings, hardware, washers, liners.

In the event that the nominal liners hang out, the shaft will have to be machined and balanced. Repair kits usually come with at least two sizes of liners. Clean and lubricate the bearings with engine oil. Install the inner circlips into the cartridge making sure they are fully seated in the grooves.

Next, insert the turbine liner, previously lubricated in engine oil, and fix it with a retaining ring. Also insert the compressor liner, lubricate the bushing and put an oil ring on it, put the plate and tighten the T15 bolts. I didn’t find anywhere to tighten the moment, therefore we are tightening it, but not to the point of stupor. After assembly, everything looks very glamorous.Next, install the mudguard plate and secure with retaining rings.

Installation of oil rings is very tedious and long because it is quite difficult to put them on the shaft. Especially if the grooves are coked to death.

For many car enthusiasts who love power and speed, the issue of buying a car with a turbocharged engine is very important.

In turn, the task of the turbocharger is to supply more air to the engine cylinders and, as a result, increase the power of the latter.

The only drawback of such a useful element is frequent failure, so every motorist should be able to make at least minimal turbine repairs.

Structurally, a turbocharger is a very simple mechanism that consists of several main elements:

The common body of the node and the snail;
Plain bearing;
thrust bearing;
Distance and thrust sleeve.

The turbine housing is made of aluminum alloy, and the shaft is made of steel.

Therefore, in the event of failure of these elements, the only right decision is only replacement.

Most turbine damage can be easily diagnosed and repaired. At the same time, you can entrust the work to professionals in their field or do everything yourself.

In principle, there is nothing complicated about this (we will consider how to dismantle and repair a turbine in the article).

As the practice of operation shows, in total there are two main causes of breakdowns - poor-quality or untimely maintenance.

If, according to the plan, a technical inspection is carried out, then the turbine will work for a long time and without any complaints from motorists.

So, for today, there are several main signs and reasons for the failure of the turbine:

1. The appearance of blue smoke from the exhaust pipe at the time of the increase in speed and its absence when it reaches the norm. The main reason for such a malfunction is oil entering the combustion chamber due to a leak in the turbine.

2. Black smoke from the exhaust pipe - indicates the combustion of the fuel mixture in the intercooler or injection line. The probable cause is damage or breakdown of the TKR control system (turbocharger).

3. Smoke from the exhaust pipe of white color indicates clogging of the turbine oil drain line. In such a situation, only cleaning can save.

4. Excessive oil consumption up to one liter per thousand kilometers. In this case, you need to pay attention to the turbine and the presence of a leak. In addition, it is advisable to inspect the joints of the pipes.

5. Dynamics of dispersal "blunted". This is a clear symptom of a lack of air in the engine. The reason is a malfunction or breakdown of the TKR control system (turbocharger).
6. The appearance of a whistle on a running engine. The likely cause is an air leak between the motor and the turbine.
7. A strange rattle during turbine operation often indicates a crack or deformation in the assembly housing. In most cases, with such symptoms, TCR does not “live” for a long time, and further repair of the turbine may be ineffective.

8. Increased noise in the operation of the turbine can cause clogging of the oil pipeline, changing the gaps of the rotor and touching the latter on the turbocharger housing.
9. An increase in exhaust emissions or fuel consumption often indicates problems with the air supply to the TKR (turbocharger).

To repair the turbine with your own hands, it must be dismantled.

This is done in the following sequence:

1. Disconnect all pipelines that go to the turbine. In this case, you should be extremely careful not to damage the node itself and the devices adjacent to it.

2. Remove the turbine and compressor volutes. The latter is dismantled without problems, but the turbine volute is often attached very tightly.

Here, dismantling can be done in two ways - using a mallet method or using the snail mounting bolts themselves (by gradually releasing them from all sides).

When performing work, you must be very careful not to damage the turbine wheel.

3. Once the work of dismantling the volutes is completed, you can check for shaft play. If the latter is missing, then the problem is not in the shaft.

Again, a little lateral play is acceptable (but no more than one millimeter).

4. The next step is to remove the compressor wheels. Pliers will come in handy for this job. When dismantling, please note that the compressor shaft in most cases has a left-hand thread.

To dismantle the compressor wheel, a special puller is useful.

5. Next, the sealing inserts are dismantled (they are located in the recesses of the rotor), as well as the thrust bearing (it is mounted on three bolts, so there are no problems with removal).

6. Now you can remove the liners from the end part - they are fastened with a retaining ring (during dismantling, sometimes you have to tinker).

The plain bearings (compressor side) are fixed with a circlip.

7. When performing dismantling work, it is necessary (regardless of the breakdown) to thoroughly rinse and clean the main elements - the cartridge, seals, rings and other components.

Once the dismantling is completed, repairs can be made. For this, a special repair kit should be at hand, where there is everything you need - liners, hardware, seals and rings.

Check the quality of fixation of nominal inserts. If they hang out, then they need to be machined and the shaft balanced.

In this case, it is advisable to clean the liners well and lubricate with engine oil.

The retaining rings located inside the turbine must be installed in the cartridge. At the same time, make sure that they are in their place (in special grooves).

After that, you can mount the turbine liner, after lubricating it with engine oil. The insert is fixed with a retaining ring.

The next step is to install the compressor liner, after which a well-lubricated bushing can be inserted.

Next, put a ring plate on it and tighten it well with bolts (without fanaticism).

Install the dirt plate (secured with a circlip) and oil scraper ring.

It remains only to return the snail to its place. That's all.

This article indicates the general algorithm for disassembling and assembling a turbine. Of course, depending on the type of the latter, this algorithm will be partially changed, but the general course of work will be identical.

Well, if a serious breakdown is detected, then it is better to immediately replace the old turbine with a new one.

In the absence of serious defects, the repair of the turbine takes no more than a few hours. But with the help of improvised tools and material prepared in advance, you can make a very high-quality and budget repair.

Installing a turbocharger on a diesel engine increases energy efficiency, torque, power and throttle response of the engine. Long-term operation and untimely maintenance lead to unit failure. If you have locksmith skills and tools, you can repair the turbocharger with your own hands. To do this, you need to study its device and read the repair instructions.

Material content [expand]

The unit consists of three main sections:

hot (turbine), working with exhaust gases;
compressor room supplying compressed air to the collector;
cartridge (bearing assembly) that transmits torque from the turbine to the compressor impeller.

In the turbine or compressor part there is a control system that controls the action of the bypass valve. The compressor impeller is put on the shaft, which is a continuation of the turbine. Lubrication to the bearings is supplied through oil channels.

Given the not too complicated device and the high cost of the unit, do-it-yourself turbine repair on a diesel engine allows you to save a lot.

The following signs indicate the need for repair:

Increased consumption of oil that enters the cylinders. This may be accompanied by the appearance of blue smoke from the exhaust.
Loss of power due to air entering through the nozzle seals.
Changing the composition of the fuel-air mixture. This is expressed in increased fuel consumption and the appearance of black smoke from the exhaust pipe.
Increased turbine noise due to worn cartridge bearings.

If you notice at least one of the signs, it is time to check the operation of the supercharger and repair the turbine yourself on a diesel engine.

Repairing a diesel engine turbine on your own requires tools, spare parts, and advanced locksmith skills. In their absence, it is cheaper to turn to professionals. Assembly in artisanal conditions can lead to the ingress of grains of sand into the unit. As a result, it will eventually fail. If you are confident in your abilities, you can get to work.

Before you repair the turbine, you should prepare a repair kit. You will need the following details:

You will also need the following set of tools:

socket and open-end wrenches;
screwdrivers;
pliers with sliding jaws;
curly editing;
puller;
mallet.

This is enough to restore the turbine with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself repair of a diesel engine turbine for a passenger car or truck begins with its dismantling. To do this, you need to perform the following operations:

unscrew the bolts or remove the stoppers that fix the housings of the compressor and turbine assembly;
if the knot has become attached, it must be carefully “wakened up” by tapping with a mallet;
remove the snail.

First you need to check the cartridge bearings: the longitudinal play is unacceptable, the transverse play is only very small. AND

The compressor retaining ring is removed using pliers with sliding jaws. The reverse side of the shaft is clamped with curly editing.

When disassembling, do not forget about the left-hand thread on the shaft.

The compressor wheel cannot be removed without a special puller. To prevent unbalance of the assembly, it is necessary to install the parts in the same position during assembly. To do this, mark the wheel and nut.In order to qualitatively repair the turbine with your own hands, you need to carefully clean all the parts and check their condition.Bushing wear is the main cause of cartridge play. To replace them, you need to remove the retaining rings and unscrew the mounting bolts. You will also have to change the liners that are held by the stopper. Before removing the seal rings, clean the carbon deposits from the cartridge shaft and impeller.In the event that shaft wear is noticeable, worn liners of nominal size are replaced with repair ones. The shaft will have to be turned to the repair size and balanced. If the development is only on the liners, you can put new nominal size. This completes the do-it-yourself repair of the supercharger turbine cartridge.After the repair is completed, it remains to assemble the unit and put it in place. Be sure to check the tightness of the retaining rings when installing them on the cartridge. If they do not sit in the nests, the structure will crumble during operation.Bearings, bushings and oil scraper rings of the shaft are lubricated with oil before installation. This ensures that there are no scuff marks at the first start.

The parts are assembled in the reverse order of their removal at the previous stage.

The impeller fastening nut is tightened with a force of 5 N.m, unless otherwise provided by the manufacturer's instructions.

The assembled device is placed on the engine and fixed with screws or stoppers.

They are achieved due to the built-in turbocharger, which supplies large volumes of air to the engine cylinders, thereby increasing its power. However, the happiness of owning such a super-useful unit is overshadowed by its frequent breakdown. All car parts wear out over time, but turbine repair is much less common than a complete replacement of a damaged mechanism.

Compliance with elementary operating rules, a thorough technical inspection on time, the use of high-quality synthetic oil and its regular replacement, the correct position of the oil pipeline without kinks, the presence of a turbo timer and the purchase of a blow-off bypass valve - these simple manipulations can increase the durability of a turbocharger several times. Not everyone can afford the opportunity to visit a service station at the slightest malfunction, so it makes sense to learn the basics of minimal turbine repair on your own.

The turbine circuit is quite simple, its main elements are:

The common body of the node and the snail.
Plain bearing.
Thrust bearing.
Distance and thrust bushings.

Since the main elements of the turbine are metal (aluminum housing, steel shaft), they cannot be repaired - only replaced.

The main causes of turbine failure quite amenable to self-diagnosis and repair. Of course, in the absence of the necessary skills, it is better to entrust these procedures to professionals.

Almost all breakdowns are based on 2 violations: inspection performed poorly or not on time.

When the rpm is increased, blue smoke is emitted from the exhaust pipe, which disappears at normal values.

Cause: There is a leak in the turbine through which oil enters the combustion chamber.

Emission of black smoke from the exhaust pipe.

Cause: The fuel mixture burns out in the intercooler or pressure line when the control system malfunctions.

Cause: Turbine oil drain is impassable and needs to be cleaned.

Increased oil consumption per mileage (can reach a ratio of 1 liter: 1000 km).

Reason: leak in the turbine, separation of the joints of the pipes.

Car acceleration takes longer.

Cause: Decrease in air volumes supplied by the turbocharger due to its malfunction.

Whistle when the engine is running.

Reason: violation of the continuity of the connection between the motor and the turbine, air leakage into the gaps formed.

Grinding sound when the turbine is running.

Reason: most likely deformation of the assembly body, self-repair is ineffective, it may be necessary to replace the entire turbocharger.

Increased noise level when the turbine is running.

Cause: blockage of the oil line, increased rotor clearances, contact between the rotor and the turbocharger housing.

Increased fuel consumption and increased concentration of exhaust gases.

Reason: broken connection to the turbocharger, insufficient air supply.

These include: a pipe that connects the turbine to another pipe to create an air flow.

We remove both snails: turbine (you may need to make an effort) and compressor. We remove it either with the help of a mallet - knock it down, or unscrew the attaching bolts. We try not to touch the turbine wheel.

It is necessary to carefully examine the condition of the blades. In the presence of surface deformations, even of minimal dimensions, they need to be replaced or repaired by grinding and turning.

We evaluate the condition of the pipe. There may be slight drops of oil on it, but ideally the nozzle should be almost dry. On many turbocharger models, a venting system is attached to its bore. If it is damaged or the parts diverge, there will be a significant amount of oil at the junction, as well as on the pipe itself. In this case, it will not be possible to manage on your own, it is necessary to connect professionals to the repair.
We check the serviceability of the shaft - after removing the snails, we look for the presence of play - we grab the shaft with our hand and try to shift it in the direction of the axis. Half- and one-millimeter lateral play is quite acceptable. We also immediately check the radial play - the blades touching the turbine housing: we rearrange the shaft to the extreme right state and turn the blades. When these parts come into contact, the situation indicates the need to replace the turbine due to a breakdown. It is necessary to disconnect the pipe from the intake manifold or intercooler and the turbine and evaluate the condition of the holes. If a significant amount of oil is noted in the pipe, but there is practically no oil in the area of the holes, we conclude that the turbocharger is malfunctioning, accompanied by an increased oil consumption above the maximum value.
We remove the compressor wheels with the help of pliers and a special puller, while remembering the left-hand thread on the compressor shaft.
We separate the sealing inserts in the cavities of the rotor and unscrew the 3 bolts of the thrust bearing.
We separate the sealing inserts from the retaining ring from the end of the turbine.
We remove the plain bearings, also fixed on the retaining ring on the compressor side.
The main components, such as the cartridge, seals, rings, etc., should be cleaned and washed during disassembly.
Pay attention when buying a vehicle: the presence of a luminous inscription of the Check-engine indicator on the panel means a serious malfunction of the turbine. Only an expert can determine the exact cause of the breakdown in the case.

It is necessary to have a special repair kit available, which includes hardware, rings, seals and liners.
We check the fixedness of the nominal inserts. If there are fluctuations, we grind, clean, lubricate with engine oil and balance the shaft.
Retaining rings are installed in special grooves of the cartridge inside the turbine.
Lubricate the turbocharger liner with special engine oil and fix it in place with the retaining ring.
Install the compressor insert.
Lubricate and install the bushing.
From above, we fix the sleeve with a plate due to bolts.
We install protection against dirt with the help of retaining rings.
Install the oil seal ring.
We install snails.

You should be very careful with dismantled turbine assembly. Often a situation arises when the analysis went quite well, but there are problems with the installation. Thoroughly cleaned of dirt, washed with a specially selected composition and examined for deformations (if necessary, they are replaced), the turbine parts are very carefully, until they stop, installed in the intended grooves.

Structural feature of the turbine - a small number of elements determines its relative durability. Its components are easily amenable and in most cases require replacement, but even if absolutely all parts fail, the turbine is able to perform work. However, this fact should not be taken as a guide to action, as a malfunctioning turbine provides a truly fantastic oil consumption.

The specified sequence of operations is common for all types of turbochargers, depending on the model, some actions may vary. In case of a serious malfunction, it is recommended to replace the damaged turbine.

Video (click to play).

To save money, it makes sense to master the independent repair of the turbine, especially considering that the time costs do not exceed several hours.