4d56 DIY turbine repair

Tell me, has anyone tried to repair a 4D56 turbine ?? As far as I know, the bushing in the turbine wears out! Is it possible to grind it at a turner? In general, advice — oil throws a lot!

to Texservis93:

Well, you can repair it. If the arms grow from the shoulders, and the head is from the neck and is not stuffed with foam rubber, then there is nothing complicated in this. The only thing is that you need to buy a turbine repair kit.

Here I found a ready-made turbine repair manual. True, there is a different turbine. But the filling is the same.

On the removed turbine, unscrew all the fittings and unscrew the screws securing the compressor and turbine parts.

The compressor volute is usually removed without problems, the turbine one usually sticks tightly. There are not many ways to withdraw. The first is a mallet in Russian, but it is better to use the snail mounting bolts and slowly push the snail away. The snail itself sits on a cone, so you have to work hard. Unscrew gradually, a little bit and evenly from all sides. Make sure that the turbine wheel is not deformed. The complexity of this method depends on the design of the turbine, on the GT17 I had to use a mallet.

The compressor volute can be removed in different ways. On the GT25 it is secured with a retaining ring, on the GT17 with bolts. The main thing is not to lose the puck!

After unscrewing the bolts or removing the retaining ring carefully, so as not to damage the wheel, remove the snail.

When the cartridge is already in our hands, we check the shaft play. There should be no longitudinal backlash, the lateral backlash can be felt, but it should not dangle back and forth a millimeter either. Although a backlash or non-backlash TKR does not mean that the turbine will not eat oil so that the oil consumption will be equal to the gasoline consumption.

Video (click to play).

Next, you need to remove the compressor wheel. To do this, you need to use pliers with sliding jaws, while the other end of the shaft is clamped with a curly mandrel or whatever fits. It should not be forgotten that compressor shaft thread LEFT.

The compressor wheel is unlikely to come off the shaft by itself, so you will have to use a conventional universal puller.

Be sure to mark the relative position of the nut and wheels relative to each other, so as not to upset the balance.

O-rings are held in place by retaining rings, and the shaft sleeves are held in place with three T15 bolts, and it is usually the sleeves that cause the backlash.

From the end part, the liners are held by means of retaining rings, this will not be a problem.

The compressor-side liner is supported by one retaining ring, and the turbine-side liner by two retaining rings.

Thoroughly clean the cartridge from dirt, carbon deposits and deposits. Clean the wheels and remove the O-ring from the shaft

Next, you should already have a repair kit for your TKR. A typical repair kit contains a complete set of oil seals, rings, hardware, washers, and liners.

If the nominal bushings are loose, you will have to grind and balance the shaft. In repair kits, liners usually come in at least two sizes. Clean and lubricate the liners with engine oil. Install the inner circlips into the cartridge making sure they are fully seated in the grooves.

Next, insert the turbine bushing, pre-lubricated with engine oil, and secure it with a retaining ring. Also insert the compressor liner, lubricate the bushing and put the oil wiper ring on it, put the plate and tighten the T15 bolts. What moment to tighten, I have not found anywhere, therefore, tighten, but not to the point of stupidity. After assembly, everything looks very glamorous.Next, install the dirt protection plate and secure with the retaining rings.

Installing oil wiper rings is very tedious and time consuming because it is quite difficult to put them on the shaft. Especially if the grooves are coked to death.

For many car enthusiasts who love power and speed, the question of buying a car with a turbocharged engine is very important.

In turn, the task of the turbocharger is to supply a larger volume of air to the engine cylinders and, as a consequence, increase the power of the latter.

The only drawback of such a useful element is frequent failure, so every motorist should be able to make at least minimal repairs to the turbine.

Structurally, a turbocharger is a very simple mechanism that consists of several basic elements:

1. General body of the node and snail;
2. Plain bearing;
3. Thrust bearing;
4. Distance and thrust bushings.

The turbine housing is made of aluminum alloy and the shaft is made of steel.

Therefore, in the event of failure of these elements, the only correct solution is only replacement.

Most turbine damage can be easily diagnosed and repaired. At the same time, the work can be entrusted to professionals in their field, or you can do everything yourself.

In principle, there is nothing complicated about this (we will consider how to dismantle and repair a turbine in the article).

As the operating practice shows, there are two main reasons for breakdowns - poor-quality or untimely maintenance.

If, however, a technical inspection is made according to the plan, then the turbine will work for a long time and without any particular complaints from motorists.

So, today there are several main signs and reasons for turbine failure:

• 1. The appearance of blue smoke from the exhaust pipe at the time of increasing revs and its absence when the norm is reached. The main reason for such a malfunction is the ingress of oil into the combustion chamber due to a leak in the turbine.

• 2. Black smoke from the exhaust pipe - indicates the combustion of the fuel mixture in the intercooler or delivery line. The probable cause is damage or breakdown of the TKR (turbocharger) control system.

• 3. White smoke from the exhaust pipe indicates a clogged turbine oil drain line. In such a situation, only cleaning can save.

• 4. Excessive oil consumption up to one liter per thousand kilometers. In this case, you need to pay attention to the turbine and the presence of a leak. In addition, it is advisable to inspect the joints of the pipes.

• 5. The dynamics of acceleration is "dulled". This is a clear symptom of a lack of air in the engine. The reason is a malfunction or breakdown of the TKR control system (turbocharger).
• 6. The appearance of a whistle on a running engine. The probable cause is an air leak between the motor and the turbine.
• 7. Strange grinding noise during turbine operation often indicates the appearance of a crack or deformation in the housing of the unit. In most cases, with such symptoms, TCR does not "live" for a long time and further repair of the turbine may be ineffective.

• 8. Increased noise in the operation of the turbine can cause clogging of the oil line, change in the rotor clearances and rubbing of the latter against the turbocharger housing.
• 9. An increase in exhaust gas toxicity or fuel consumption often indicates problems with the supply of air to the TKR (turbocharger).

To repair the turbine with your own hands, it must be dismantled.

This is done in the following sequence:

• 1. Disconnect all piping that leads to the turbine. In this case, you should be extremely careful not to damage the node itself and the devices adjacent to it.

• 2. Remove the turbine and compressor volutes. The latter can be dismantled without problems, but the turbine volute is often attached very tightly.

Here, dismantling can be done in two ways - by the mallet method or by using the snail mounting bolts themselves (by gradually releasing them from all sides).

When performing work, you must be very careful not to damage the turbine wheel.

• 3. Once the work on dismantling the volutes is completed, you can check for any shaft play. If the latter is missing, then the problem is not with the shaft.

Again, slight lateral play is acceptable (but not more than one millimeter).

• 4. The next step is to remove the compressor wheels. Pliers come in handy to do this job. When dismantling, please note that the compressor shaft has a left-hand thread in most cases.

A special puller is useful to dismantle the compressor wheel.

• 5. Next, the sealing inserts are dismantled (they are located in the grooves of the rotor), as well as the thrust bearing (it is mounted on three bolts, so there are no problems with removal).

• 6. Now you can remove the liners from the end part - they are fastened using a retaining ring (sometimes you have to tinker when dismantling).

The plain bearings (compressor side) are secured with a circlip.

7. When performing dismantling work, it is necessary (regardless of the breakdown) to thoroughly rinse and clean the main elements - cartridge, seals, rings and other components.

Once dismantling is complete, repairs can be made. To do this, there should be a special repair kit at hand, which contains everything you need - inserts, hardware, oil seals and rings.

Check the quality of the fixation of the nominal liners. If they are loose, then they need to be grooved and the shaft should be balanced.

In this case, it is advisable to clean the liners well and lubricate them with engine oil.

The retaining rings located inside the turbine must be installed in the cartridge. At the same time, make sure that they are in their place (in special grooves).

After that, you can mount the turbine liner, having previously lubricated it with engine oil. The liner is fixed with a retaining ring.

The next step is to mount the compressor liner, after which a well-lubricated liner can be inserted.

Next, put a plate on it and tighten it well with bolts (without fanaticism).

Install the dirt plate (secured with a retaining ring) and an oil scraper ring.

It remains only to return the snails to their place. That's all.

This article provides a general algorithm for disassembling and assembling a turbine. Of course, depending on the type of the latter, this algorithm will be partially changed, but the general course of work will be identical.

Well, if a serious breakdown is revealed, then it is better to immediately replace the old turbine with a new one.

In the absence of serious defects, the repair of the turbine takes no more than a few hours. But with the help of improvised tools and material prepared in advance, you can make a very high-quality and budgetary repair.

Installing a turbocharger on a diesel engine improves energy efficiency, torque, power and throttle response. Long-term operation and untimely maintenance lead to damage to the unit. If you have locksmith skills and tools, you can repair the turbocharger with your own hands. To do this, you need to study its device and familiarize yourself with the repair instructions.

Material content [open]

The unit consists of three main sections:

• hot (turbine), working with exhaust gases;
• compressor room supplying compressed air to the manifold;
• cartridge (bearing unit) that transmits the torque from the turbine to the compressor impeller.

The turbine or compressor section has a control system that controls the operation of the bypass valve. The compressor impeller is put on the shaft, which is a continuation of the turbine. The bearings are lubricated through oil channels.

Given the not too complicated device and the high cost of the unit, repairing a turbine with your own hands on a diesel engine can save you a lot.

This need for repair is indicated by the following signs:

• Increased oil consumption that enters the cylinders. This may be accompanied by the appearance of blue smoke from the exhaust.
• Loss of power due to air entering through the pipe seals.
• Change in the composition of the fuel-air mixture. This translates into increased fuel consumption and black smoke from the tailpipe.
• Increased turbine noise due to wear on cartridge bearings.

If you notice at least one of the signs, it's time to check the operation of the supercharger and repair the turbine with your own hands on a diesel engine.

Do-it-yourself diesel turbine repair requires tools, parts and advanced locksmith skills. In their absence, it is cheaper to turn to professionals. Handcrafted assembly can lead to the ingress of grains of sand into the unit. As a result, it will permanently fail. If you are confident in your abilities, you can get to work.

Before you repair the turbine, you should prepare a repair kit. You will need the following details:

You will also need the following set of tools:

• socket and open-end wrenches;
• screwdrivers;
• nippers with sliding jaws;
• curly editing;
• puller;
• mallet.

This is enough to restore the turbine with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself repair of a diesel engine turbine of a passenger car or truck begins with its dismantling. To do this, you need to perform the following operations:

• unscrew the bolts or remove the stoppers securing the compressor and turbine unit housings;
• if the knot has become attached, it must be carefully "woken up" by tapping with a mallet;
• remove the snail.

First you need to check the bearings of the cartridge: longitudinal play is unacceptable, transverse play is only very small. AND

The compressor retaining ring is removed using a sliding jaw pliers. In this case, the reverse side of the shaft is clamped by curly dressing.

When disassembling, do not forget about the left-hand thread on the shaft.