4m41 do-it-yourself pump repair

In detail: 4m41 do-it-yourself pump repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

avtosous »26 May 2011, 02:22

Kiryukha »26 May 2011, 09:10

Max PXT »26 May 2011, 11:49

kaa399 »12 Sep 2011, 19:04

Igor »12 Sep 2011, 22:05

good cat »13 Sep 2011, 13:55

Green goblin »28 Sep 2011, 15:22

After observing for about 20 minutes the operation of the motor, I found that when the solenoid valve on the top of the air duct was triggered, the machine seemed to choke and make a small roar, loosened the adjusting bolt by about 2.5 turns. ALL PROBLEMS GONE.

or you can take a photo of this valve with its location and arrow which screw you need to turn. I have similar symptoms.

avtosous »08 Oct 2011, 22:31

Igor December 12, 2011 4:18 am

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I bought the car at the end of April 2013. in Rolfe. In the documents for diagnostics, there was a line "Requires tuning of the injection pump". I asked what it was, they said: well, your fuel consumption is slightly increased now. From the end of April to October I dashed off 44000 km, then the runs were already small a month. In February, I noticed that the fuel consumption increased, and the route that I had previously traveled by 15 liters. now almost 25 liters. They disassembled the manifold, cleaned it, flushed the EGR valve, and at the same time drowned it. The dynamics increased, the consumption remained the same. In general, it did not help.

I went to St. Petersburg. On the way, I noticed that the car does not gain more than 2000 and does not travel more than 100 km / h, drove into the VR and refueled to a full tank. I missed it, it seems normal. I arrived in St. Petersburg and stalled at a traffic light, then at another. The car stopped idling. The engine became unstable. The turnovers began to float. It's hard to start up, you have to turn it for 3-5 seconds. I found the officials, went to the diagnosis. They didn’t want to take it, we had to beg, they say, we ourselves are not local, etc. Have taken!

Video (click to play).

The conclusion to voice came out in the 5th! There were two pieces of news reported, one good and one bad. We started with a good one. Something was replaced in the engine for the action ... Okay ... As for the bad news, they spoke with a feeling of mourning on their face. It looked something like this: Please accept our deepest condolences, our mechanics did their best, but your injection pump died. I think, okay, died and passed away, why so much mourning ...? The manager traced the price tag for the new injection pump on paper with a marker. 188000 RUR It was then that I realized that I was really in mourning! ))) And I began to regret the death of my injection pump. They said that in St. Petersburg I will not find handy specialists who can restore it. They recommended to go to Moscow, they say there is someone who is restoring a high-pressure fuel pump from Pajero 3, 3.2 DiD.

I arrived in Moscow and began to study the topic of high-pressure fuel pumps. It turns out that there are not so many services in Moscow who are engaged in the restoration of high-pressure fuel pumps from Pajero 3, 3.2. The injection pump on the Pajero III, 3.2 Did runs almost all the same 200 thousand km. plus, minus ... And here the epic begins! The price tag for the repair and restoration of the Pajero III, 3.2 injection pump starts from 75000r. up to 120,000 rubles. according to the following scheme. You come, give your injection pump, pay at least 75000r. and in return you get someone's already restored one ... In Moscow there are single services that have their own diagnostic stand. All the rest are taken to Bosch to diagnose. Further math is simple, the service markup is added to the Bosche price, where you returned the car. In Boch, the price tag for the restoration and repair of the Pajero 3 injection pump starts at 100,000 rubles. In service garages from 75000r. As a result, whatever one may say, the price tag for the restoration and repair of the Pajero III injection pump will turn out to be under 100,000 rubles. or even more. What kind of beast is this Pajero 3 injection pump and why is it so expensive to restore it?

Divorce # 1
Each service that you call, you will certainly be offered to come and undergo computer diagnostics, (1000-3000 rubles), the continuation of the dialogue will be a proposal to dismantle the injection pump for further research (dismantling / installation of 10000-15000 rubles).
The final diagnostics can only be detected by removing the injection pump from the 4M41 internal combustion engine and installing it on the stand, or analysis, but analysis is only diagnostics, you will still need a stand to set it up.
In general, you can ride around the services, leaving everyone at least 1000r.
Exit: You need to go through the diagnostics 1 time and demand a conclusion, where everything will be described in detail in the conclusion with the identified errors that the computer issued. It is better to do this in the service where you will restore your injection pump, provided that they have a stand. If you don't have your own stand, then turn around and leave! (the cost of the Chinese stand is from 500,000 rubles, the European one is 3 million rubles)

Divorce # 2
You will be offered to diagnose fuel injection pump with removal from the internal combustion engine. Dismantling, installation at least from 10,000 to 15,000 rubles. diagnostics from 5000r. up to 35000r. depending on how and on what, they will diagnose.
Exit: Do not contact services that do not have their own diagnostic stand. It is cheaper to diagnose the high pressure fuel pump problem at the stand than to diagnose it by full analysis, it is not a fact that your parts will be collected back to you, and even correctly.

Divorce # 3
Do not agree to buy a contract high-pressure fuel pump, or a high-pressure fuel pump out of the box - it's a pig in a poke! It is not known how much this injection pump actually ran off. The minimum cost of a high-pressure fuel pump is 20000 rubles, which you may have for a very short time.
Exit: Buying a new injection pump or restoring an existing one, it all depends on your material and aesthetic considerations.

In search of a way out of the situation, I turned to all friends of the Pagerovodam from the DRIVE2 community. So, with one colleague (Ruslan - ZloyRus), I ended up in a service that is located in a garage facility, which does not have a stand or other equipment for diagnosing the fuel system. The conditions are the same, the exchange of the injection pump for 75000r. + 10000 RUR dismantling / installation. There I found out that they themselves do not restore the injection pump from Pajero 3, 3.2, but send it to Ukraine, where there is an office that diagnoses and restores the unit or its individual units, then sends it back. It is clear that the ends then cannot be found, therefore, the guarantee for the restored Pajero III injection pump is conditional.

I didn't even go to several services, confining myself to talking on the phone. Conclusion - a divorce!
I spoke with the owner of one of the services on the phone for about half an hour. Adequate, sane person. He clearly answers all questions and even gives recommendations. It would seem that the person knows his business, but it was not so ... I got on the Internet and found a whole thread of negative reviews from different clients about this service. And despite the fact that the owner of this service is a member of this community, except to refer to the spring (they say, hysterical clients, spring aggravation), he had nothing to say, although the accusations were weighty and with a detailed description. I deliberately do not indicate the name and location of all these services, for various reasons, but I can share it in a personal message. This is just about the masters who work with their hands down. Negativeness in the thread of that forum poured out both for long repair periods and for constantly emerging costs for car repairs, as a result, the owner was initially announced one cost of work, and in the end it turned out to be another.
It's already the second month of my research on the market for services for restoring injection pumps from Pajero 3.

Repair Pajero4M41 ZEXEL VRZ: ME994986. ME190711. ME204195. ME204195. ME203706. ME203295. ME204334. And MMS FUSO ZEXEL VRZ 6M61 ME131986. ME131982. ME300046. ME300067.

Please draw your attention to the fact that when buying a contract injection pump from showdowns, etc. no one can guarantee you the check that is carried out at specialized stands. Any salesperson can tell you that the pump is tested - in most cases this will not be true. Even a large number of service stations that replace and repair these injection pumps do it blindly, “by eye” on the machine, and do not see the density and quality of the part they have installed. We see the installed part and know exactly with what parameters we are giving it back.

The 4M41 pump has become one of the most demanded and expensive purchases. There are a lot of factors affecting the operation of the injection pump. Therefore, we have developed several schemes for repairing high-pressure fuel pumps:

Option 1. We make the pump from the proven 4D33. The base of the pump remains: the body parts and the hydrohead. A new ECU and 12-volt sensors are added. The most expensive and reliable pump option. Price 80,000 r (not always available)

Option 2. Repairing your pump with replacing the hydraulic head with 4D33:

- hydrohead 4D33 - 25,000 r

Possible replacements - booster pump - 10,000 rubles.

Repair prices have been reduced.

We have described the standard basic replacements for the 4M41 pump. There are also non-standard replacements - POM, ignition tracking and control sensors, development of clearances along the body, failure of the injection pump ECU. Very often, when sending pumps, the crankshaft sensors on the front of the injection pump break; it is better to just take them off, otherwise there will be additional costs.

Plunger pairs 4M41 / 4 D 33 E 149701-0520. 149701-0320. 149701-0420.

It is not worth talking a lot about the whole journey, but we asked the Japanese when the first doubts began to arise - where the plunger pairs came from and why they are of poor quality. A mechanic from a nearby service station changed 3 new plunger pairs in his car during the year. The Japanese answer was unambiguous - "Plunger assemblies are used in the domestic Japanese market." We installed a lot of them - dozens of them, and the price was low: it started from 6,000 rubles, in a year it rose to 10,000, and now there is a sharp jump - 50-60,000 rubles in delivery. We bought the last batch of 40 pieces - 20 4M41, 20 4 D 33 E.

Everything works well on a good, unworn motor. Somehow, 3 Pajero got up for repairs at once. And then it began. Of the ten new 4M41 plunger pairs, 8 were rejected. According to our test plans, 41 the engine stops starting hot and barely starts cold when starting at 8 cm³ for 200 engine cycles. The plunger pair in excellent condition gains 20 cm³ and more, it is extremely rare to find 26 cm³.

New plunger pairs 4M41 at 11-12 cm³ are already beginning to behave inadequately - at idle the engine is slightly supported. - The impression seems to be troit. There is a huge field of activity in telling the client about his motor and nozzles, because there is no equipment at the service station for the repair of such high-pressure fuel pumps.99% of service stations repair blindly - simply by installing a new part, and if it is of poor quality? And what should a master do, who himself does not fully understand what is the reason for this behavior of the engine, if a new part is installed. Recently, many people have begun to restore hydraulic heads, such as in Chuguev. We checked these details at home, out of 4 square pairs, one gave out 16 cm cube, the remaining 10. 12. and 14. These square pairs do not pass our control.

When we first began to install 4 D 33 E plunger pairs on 4 M 41, we immediately saw a better starting mode by 10-15%. Pressure gauge checks have always shown the same result. This effect is provided by oversized injection cams, due to the larger diameter, the volume of fuel entering through them is larger, which means that the starting mode is more efficient. I don’t know why, but the amount of scrap in 4 D 33 E plungers is much less.

Almost all experts of the Primorsky and Khabarovsk Territories already know that the new 4M41 plunger pairs from Japan practically do not work.

The booster pump is very important. Due to the internal pressure, the hydrohead, filling with fuel, scatters its pushers (cams) for the working cycle. Therefore, on the booster pump, the covering washer on both sides has additional seals - a rubber ring is closer to the outer diameter to the radius, a plastic ring is located on the inner diameter (where the stem rotates). The plastic ring has a constant load from friction and pressure, which means wear, therefore, it is a necessary replacement. On the bench, pumps very often show pressure loss. Those. after 5 minutes of work at the stand, starting to check the starting mode, the internal pressure drops from the nominal (5-7 kg) to almost zero, which requires a careful approach to eliminating this defect.

The conclusion drawn from the experience of many years: the 4M41-analogue made from the pump 4 D 33 E works more efficiently and longer than the original.

4M41 nozzles.

The 4M41 engine has two-spring injectors with two injection pressures. The first injection is controlled within 180 bar, the second - 230-240 bar. On a simple nozzle stand it is impossible to see and set the second pressure without special attachments, or without 2-Stagemaster nozzle attachments, designed specifically for adjusting the second stage of the nozzle.
The first action on such a nozzle is to set the needle lift gap, which is in the range from 0.04 to 0.08 mm.
We have on sale original sprayers (3000 r) with a special spacer, where the required clearance of the needle lift is already set. And also new original nozzles for 6500 r.

The VRZ 6M61 pump is a complete relative of 4M41 and 4D33, with the exception of the 6-cylinder rotor. When the 4M41 was already coming to us in streams for repairs, it was not clear why there were very few Mitsubishi Fuso cars with 6M61 engines in operation. In fact, the 6-cylinder hydraulic head is much more interesting. If there are 4 holes on the ring of leakages 41 and 33 of the motor, and there is little room for wear between them, then on a 6-cylinder instead of 6 holes - 3, and the distance between the holes is three times greater than on a 4-cylinder. Hence, the starting modes on Fuso are off scale - from 30 to 40 cubic meters. For comparison: the best 4D33 rotor on 41 motors gave us 28 cubic meters.
Somehow, in Japan, we came across the very first VRZ pumps - crudely made injection pumps, it is not clear on what, where and when they stood. To our surprise, the plunger couplers fit very well on the 6M61 internal combustion engine and drive with excellent results.
Unfortunately, the number of pumps is always limited, very few of them come and are almost always broken, so the main focus is on the repair of such high-pressure fuel pumps.
Repair price:
Hydrohead - 60,000 rubles;
Booster pump - 12,000 r;
Work with high-pressure fuel pump - 8000 r;
Repair kit - 10,000 r.
Total: 80,000 rubles and 90,000 rubles.

Read also: DIY shoe backs repair

Repair Mitsubishi Canter 4D33E

Now we can repair the injection pump 4D33E at the following prices:

4M41 DI-D Hyper Common Rail Turbo Intercooler

Reading the confa, I could not understand from the opinions of the pazherovodov whether this dvigl is really Common Rail or not. Someone writes that Common Rail is bad. And here it says Hyper Common Rail, is it even worse or how

Can someone from the knowledgeable give a short but succinct description of this movement: what is good in it or what is bad in it. And if someone enlightens the thread about the difference between Common Rail and DI-D (and is there any

), it was generally great.

This is not an idle question, today I am taking my PIII with 4M41, and I have no experience in dealing with diesels, but I really want a diesel. Therefore, I would be grateful for any practical advice.

Thank you, of course, for your answer. but the prospect is not very good

According to the situation with the 4M41 engine and the fuel system. The high-pressure fuel pump (high pressure fuel pump) on this engine, the radial-plunger model VRZ from Zexel, differs from the injection pump of the previous generation of VE pumps (4D56, 4M40 engines) by the radial plunger, high injection pressure and the presence of a special processor on the high-pressure fuel pump in which the pump adjustment table is located. The pump has not been officially repaired in Russia yet, although the repair of this injection pump without proprietary equipment was successfully carried out two years ago, but in 8 weeks the proprietary equipment will appear in one Moscow diesel service, where, by agreement with Mitsubishi and Denso, these machines will be serviced. In general, these high pressure fuel pumps have shown themselves well, but some high pressure fuel pumps show a factory defect in the Timing Position Sensor, then the high pressure fuel pump needs to be repaired, and these pumps do not tolerate filling with water and gasoline well.

It is impossible to call this fuel system Komonrailovskoy, for commercial vehicles, one tube goes from the pump to the rail with high pressure, and from it to the injectors on which there are solenoid valves, the design is the same as that of a conventional gasoline injector, only the pressure in the rail is up to 1800 atmospheres. The new Mitsubishi engines are equipped with the Denso Komonrail system, which is already installed on all diesel Toyota, Mazda, etc. dynamic operation of the motor. In addition, Komonrail engines have a large stock of tuning, but there are great requirements for the replacement of consumables and the quality of oil. Basically, the repair comes down to the repair of injectors, but so far there is one service that has all the diagnostic equipment for the Denso system. Replacing all units (high pressure fuel pumps, injectors, sensors), if the service is unable to localize the malfunction, is quite expensive and does not contribute to the popularization of the diesel engine.

Hello friends, diesel operators! I'll start with myself! For about 5 years I have been doing gasoline direct injection, I have only capitalized the diesel engine. A couple of weeks ago I bought a Pajero 3 2005 4M41 with a faulty injection pump.
The history of the breakdown of this machine is known to me, I followed it for about a year. It all started last winter in a frost of -35, the check caught fire (blowing the turbine), stopped developing above 2.5 thousand rpm, smoked poisonous, discrepancies in the correction for 10 volt + + injectors - it got warmer, the car went again. A month ago, the automatic injection advance sensor vomited, and the rod remained intact, the analysis showed that the machine bushings and the piston had come to an end, respectively. The pump was assembled for a man (I didn’t do it), the car drove off, a week later the cover on the back of the advance piston was torn out and the car with the pump removed went to me.

Analysis showed a lot of shavings inside, since the advance piston and bushings were completely broken and also cut off the adjusting bracket on the cam washer.

Now a few questions: 1) Why does the advance automaton piston break
2) How to determine if the plunger is worn
3) Where to get the advance automaton bimetal bushings
4) And whether it is necessary to change the cam washer or just rub the jambs with sandpaper

Added by (22 Jan 2014, 06:39)
———————————————
By the way, the engine started at 5 in the cold, in the heat

There is no more complex and critical unit in a diesel engine than the fuel injection system, more precisely, its main part - the high-pressure fuel pump. Many mating parts, high-loaded units, the presence of a precision dosing system, make the repair of the injection pump a difficult task even in service conditions. It is all the more difficult to repair the high pressure fuel pump of a diesel engine with your own hands.

In automotive technology, almost everything is repaired, except, perhaps, individual oil seals and cuffs, the repair of which is impossible without special materials. The complexity of setting, diagnosing and repairing the injection pump requires the employee to have skills in working with precision mechanics.

It is simply impossible to adjust according to the factory parameters, without a special diagnostic stand for the repair of the injection pump. In the course of a diagnostic study of the injection pump, it is necessary to check:

cyclic supply of the high-pressure pump, in the entire range of revolutions of the injection pump shaft, at start-up, and after cutting off the fuel supply;
stability of the developed pressure;
uniformity of the injection pump delivery to the fuel injector.

Even having access to a diagnostic stand, and having studied the issue of repairing a high-pressure fuel pump using numerous videos, it is very difficult to qualitatively check and evaluate its work.

In heavy diesel engines, plunger, in-line injection pumps are used. In maintenance and repair, such devices are more difficult, since they require special equipment for its disassembly, therefore we will not consider such high pressure fuel pumps and their repair.

In a passenger diesel engine, a distribution type injection pump is almost always used. Unlike an in-line pump, in a distribution pump, the force is transmitted to the plunger using a profiled cam washer. The design of the injection pump turned out to be more compact, but it is hardly simpler to expect to carry out its repair on the knee.

The most famous and affordable is the Bosh VP44 injection pump. Often, the need to repair the pump internals arises when:

poor traction and incomplete combustion of fuel even under ideal conditions - in the absence of load and a thoroughly warmed up engine;
a sudden failure and stoppage of a diesel engine under load, which is called “death on takeoff”. Usually the scanner in such cases diagnoses the code P1630 and P1651.
the appearance of a diesel fuel leak in the area of the gland seal of the central shaft of the injection pump.

Therefore, we will restrict ourselves to the issue of repairing the injection pump with our own hands by replacing the seals and eliminating the scoring of the working surfaces of the parts.

Before disassembling the pump drive shaft seal, try to move it radially. If play is felt with your hands, it is possible that the reason for the leakage of fuel is the wear of the working surface of the shaft or requires repair of the bearing.

A large number of split planes and mating surfaces of parts required the use of a large number of seals and glands. As a rule, they are made of quality material and last long enough until they are damaged during repair or maintenance. In this case, standard repair kits are used for DIY repair of Bosch injection pumps.

It is quite easy to replace the seal on the shaft position sensor and on the automatic injection timing during repairs. For a better fit, you can drip a few drops of spindle or engine oil onto new rings and rubber bands.

For preventive repair of a Bosch injection pump with your own hands, you will need to disassemble the pump in approximately the following order:

remove the metering valve from the end of the injection pump. To do this, unscrew the four screws of the pressure plate, carefully release the cable of the injection advance valve. By removing the three screws securing the metering valve, you can carefully remove it from the seat;

by unscrewing the fastener on the top cover, you can remove the control board and gain access to the electronics;
we set the position of the shaft, as shown in the photo, remove the camera and get access to the insides of the injection pump;

after dismantling the bearing using a special puller, we get the opportunity to study the potential culprit for the poor performance of the injection pump - the piston of the injection advance unit. There is often surface wear and edge scuffing on the part. You can try to make repairs by polishing the surface, replacing the whole part is much more expensive.

After the repair, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order with the washing of the parts with diesel fuel.

Often, in addition to scoring, on the surface of the pistons there is another reason why the injection pump does not develop the required pressure. This can be due to debris, films or wax build-up on the filter screen inside the pump. There is a mesh on the side of the inlet pipe. Rinsing the channels is a troublesome and ineffective business, it is easier to remove the mesh and blow it with compressed air.

Torn pieces of debris can jam the plunger piston or even break or break the pump drive shaft. Therefore, cleaning should be done very carefully to avoid contamination of the internal cavities of the pump.

Among the many reasons for the failure of the electronic "liver" of the injection pump, the most common is the breakage or burnout of the contacts of the control board and the failure of power transistors. If the knowledge and skills of working with electronic devices allow to carry out a "continuity" of the transistor performance and repair, it is worth trying to identify the cause and replace the culprit with a serviceable element.

To check the condition of the "culprit", you need to carefully open the black cover, which is tightly seated on the rubber seal with screws. It should be removed carefully so as not to damage the seal itself.

The reason for the failure of not only the transistor, but also the entire board could be air trapped in the cavity due to poor performance of the drainage system or the check valve. Often, they try to eliminate the airing by spinning up with a starter, hoping to pump diesel fuel into the high-pressure fuel pump in this way. At this moment, the transistor is open and loaded as much as possible, which leads to intense heating. In an air environment with poor heat dissipation, it will inevitably burn out. In some German cars there is a protection that prevents an attempt to start the engine in the absence of fuel in the highway. For this, a fuel sensor in the tank is used.

Failure of the transistor can be established by "dialing" a tester or by its appearance. The best option for repairing such a malfunction would be to replace the entire control board. Perhaps it is more expensive than soldering, but it will give guaranteed quality and stable operation of the injection pump after repair. As a last resort, give the board and the transistor for soldering to electronics specialists.

When installing and reassembling after repairs, check the tightness of all fasteners.

If during the audit you did not make rash and unreasonable replacements of parts, the assembled pump should work with approximately the same parameters as before. Bosch EPS-815 stand is used as a standard for testing and adjusting injection pump after overhaul.

The video shows how to raise the plunger pressure in a Bosch VE injection pump:

The high pressure fuel pump, in short - high pressure fuel pump is an integral part of modern diesel engines. The high-pressure fuel pump is designed to supply fuel to the cylinders in strictly defined quantities in certain cycles of the diesel engine.

Fuel pumps differ in the type of fuel injection:

direct injection of a diesel engine (the supply of a diesel engine and its injection into the cylinders take place simultaneously);
battery injection (pressurized fuel is accumulated in a special "accumulator" and then supplied to the injectors).

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Also, high pressure fuel pumps may differ among themselves in types, pumps can be of the following designs:

in-line;
multi-section;
distribution.

If you do not go into the "jungle" of design differences between pumps of different types, then you can simply identify certain differences between them. In in-line and multi-section pumps, each section supplies diesel to its "own" cylinder. In distribution pumps, one "block" is capable of supplying several cylinders with diesel.

Also, another difference between the injection pump is their "power" - how many cylinders the pump is designed for and its pressure. In general, these are all obvious differences between the pumps. In general, these are the main differences between the pumps.Now we will no longer torment our readers with theories about the operation of injection pumps and their primitive characteristics, which have long been described on the Internet in large quantities. Let's move on to the immediate specifics.

The engine manufacturer Mitsubishi is deliberately omitted here. This is due to the fact that at the moment there are several derivatives of this engine. Accordingly, they have a minimum of design differences, and the injection pump is suitable for both motors.

To be more specific, this is the same engine as the Hyundai D4BH, the pump for it has full compatibility with the 4D56T internal combustion engine (the differences between the 4D56 and 4D56T internal combustion engines are insignificant, the "T" index indicates a turbocharged engine).

The pump itself for the above engines, there is only one, produced by Zexel (aka Diezel Kiki), and now BOSCH. Yes, final suppliers and packaging may vary, but in the end, injection pumps for these motors can only be obtained from Zexel or BOSCH.

Basically, the accelerated output of the injection pump on these engines is caused by low quality fuel, as well as by the ingress of foreign elements into the system, which often occurs when loose connections and driving over rough terrain, fords, etc.

The main problems with the injection pump on these engines are as follows:

Damage (due to accelerated wear) of the internal parts of the pump - the plunger pair, bearings and other parts.

Contamination of the filter (protective mesh and element) due to the ingress of foreign elements into the system.

Increased or floating revolutions due to the so-called. "Airing" of the system - the ingress of air into the system due to loose connections and worn out gaskets and seals.

Poor engine start in cold weather, caused by a jammed or broken thermostat (located on the left side of the pump, injection advance mechanism).

Other breakdowns associated with the rest of the elements - spark plugs, automatic heating, fuel supply, diesel injection advance angle settings.

Until now, the debate about which injection pump for 4D56 / 4M40 / D4BH engines is better, electronic or mechanical, does not subside. How big are the differences in the injection pump themselves and the attachment electronics for the pumps. Is it relevant to replace an electronic fuel pump with a mechanical one? Let's take a closer look.So, the main difference in this moment is not the pump itself, but the equipment (electronics or mechanics) that activates the fuel supply system, depending on one or another mode of engine operation. In a mechanical injection pump, activation occurs due to the direct mechanical control of the injection pump. A cable runs from the gas pedal to the pump, which controls the system. In an electronic injection pump (EFI), the gas pedal is already electronic and the system is activated through the accompanying electronic units and sensors.There is also a version about the existence of a cable drive for controlling an electronic injection pump (there is a control rheostat on the pump itself), but our editorial staff could not verify the reliability of this particular information.Structural diagram of a mechanical pump: Image - 4m41 do-it-yourself pump repair

The advantages of a mechanical injection pump:

ease of maintenance;
reliability (due to fewer electronic components and sensors, which often "love" fail);
cost, as a rule, mechanical pumps are cheaper than their electronic "counterparts".

Disadvantages of a mechanical injection pump:

the absence of any indication systems and the quality of the units;
the need to fine-tune the parameters and monitor the state of all related elements of the system (spark plugs, fuel pump, diesel injection timing device);
increased consumption compared to an electronic pump.
slightly worse traction performance at high rpm compared to an electronic pump.

Structural diagram of an electronic pump:

The advantages of an electronic injection pump:

more stable operation of the engine, the absence of "floating" revolutions with serviceable accompanying elements (candles, injection advance mechanism, etc.), including electronic components and sensors;
reduced fuel consumption compared to a mechanical pump;
traction performance at high rpm is slightly better than that of vehicles equipped with mechanical pumps;
the ability to read errors through electronic control units.

Disadvantages of electronic injection pump:

a large number of sensors and other electronics, and this complicates vehicle repairs and increases the cost of maintenance;
difficulties in finding some electronic components;
difficulties in the selection of the pump itself and its components, since there are a large number of different variations with hinged electronics and they are different depending on the make and model of the car;
the reliability of electronic pump units is lower than that of mechanical ones, since electronic components and sensors can often fail.

Before proceeding with the description of the process of removing the pump from the car, it should be mentioned that this article is not a guide to work on a specific car!

Zexel injection pump (aka Diezel Kiki or BOSCH) is equipped with a large number of cars with 4D56, 4M40, D4BH engines. Moreover, this family of engines is installed on completely different cars in terms of their characteristics and arrangement of units, such as Pajero Sport and Hyundai Oldax, so the attachments will be different in most cases. We will just talk about the pump removal process in general terms, without delving into the design differences between cars of different brands equipped with these engines and pumps.

To remove the pump, you will need to do the following:

remove all electrical wiring from the pump itself;
remove the cooling pipes from the intercooler;
unscrew the high-pressure lines, for this use the key for "14";
after which it is necessary to remove the nozzles, this is done with a long head on "22";
then remove the washers (2 pcs.) from the wells for the nozzles;
after which it is necessary to clean the wells from dirt, etc. and close the nozzle seats with a clean rag or glue it tightly;

after the above steps, it is necessary to remove the timing mechanism (for more information about removing the timing mechanism, see the book on repairing a specific car);
as soon as the timing is removed, it is necessary to remove the fuel injection pump sprocket and be sure to set marks on the injection pump and the engine block, this is done so that later it would be easier to install the pump and perform its adjustment;
as soon as all the above steps are completed, you can unscrew the fastening bolts of the injection pump.

The pump is removed, now, depending on the problems, it can be sent to the service to the master. Well, or do it yourself if the breakdown is not very serious.

The installation of the injection pump is carried out in the reverse order: installation of bolts, connection of vacuum hoses and electricity, etc. However, it should be noted that when installing the pump, be sure to set the marks in the correct position! In addition, it should be remembered that the elements of the high pressure system must be installed using a torque wrench. We attach the tightening forces of each element during installation:

nozzles - 55-60Nm;
high pressure pipes - 30Nm;
return pipes - 25-30 Nm.

Once the assembly is completed, it is necessary to turn the crankshaft pulley with a wrench and make sure that there are no extraneous knocks and rattles. Then you should pump the fuel and only then start the car.To repair a pump with your own hands is a responsible occupation that requires a large amount of knowledge, experience and the availability of your own equipment, therefore, before deciding on such a crucial step, we strongly recommend that you weigh your chances. Yes, such a simple maintenance as installing a repair kit for gaskets and cleaning the filter mesh is not so difficult to perform, and you can do it yourself. But more serious repairs should be trusted by professionals.The test subject was a mechanical pump removed from a vehicle and washed. One of the simpler repairs is replacing the shaft seal.To do this, it is necessary to remove the pump drive pulley with a pulley, then remove the old oil seal and install a new one. It is important to note that it is not necessary to press deeply a new oil seal, its adjustment and position should not differ from how the previous one was installed.Next - cleaning the mesh in front of the plunger pair. To do this, unscrew 4 bolts on the pump body itself, remove the cover, along the way checking the mechanisms for backlash (there should not be any), and carefully remove the plungers and blow out the mesh. Then install everything in the reverse order.

Video (click to play).

The rest of the repair is more complicated and requires certain skills, even to replace a complete pump repair kit. With a simple repair, it remains to be content with repairing the above consumables and replacing gaskets.