5hp30 DIY repair

Installing an unrepaired torque converter on a newly restored automatic transmission, you risk immediately breaking the gearbox again, because it will contain all the wear products of the torque converter, and in the worst case, the metal parts of the bearings or blades.
Do you want to buy a used torque converter? Don't rush to make a mistake! It is impossible to guess the quality of the automatic transmission fluid coupling used, moreover, purchased at the same price as a reliable repair. We offer the exchange of your torque converter for an already repaired one from our warehouse, or we can carry out a high-quality overhaul in our workshop.

We also carry out a quick repair of your torque converter in 1-2 hours right in front of you. You yourself will see all its breakdowns. At the same time, we do not make an extra charge for the urgency of work.

1) Cutting the torque converter.
The weld seam, which connects the two halves, is carefully cut, leaving as much metal as possible. With proper cutting, the torque converter can be easily disassembled and reassembled 2-3 times on occasion. Unfortunately, many transformer repair shops remove all metal from the body the first time they cut it.

2) After cleaning all parts of oil and wear products, the repair itself begins. If necessary, a new torque converter lock-up clutch is glued on, the body surface is leveled under the new clutch. And here unscrupulous repairmen again have problems out of the blue. They grind the body for the new friction clutch so that they cut off almost all the metal through and through, because of this, through cracks then appear. A normal craftsman is neat and does not remove excess metal. Then other necessary spare parts are replaced - bearings, O-rings, oil seal, etc. If necessary, a new neck is welded into the transformer cover. This procedure requires accuracy and precision, since usually unskilled workers are not able to cut a hole in the lid to fit the new neck, but drill it half a millimeter more, which is fraught with runout and imbalance.

3) Assembly.
It is imperative to weld both converter halves back as factory. In this case, it is necessary to minimize the axial runout between the two halves (balancing) and ensure the tightness of the seam.For a good craftsman, even the appearance of the repaired unit matters, which is why, after being repaired in GIDROTOR, the torque converter looks the same as a new one made at the factory.

In the video, the usual average result of our repair is a runout of 6 hundredths of a millimeter with an allowable runout of 3 tenths.

Good day to all. And with the past holidays.

I got a problem and its name is 5hp30.

It was like this: they made a SWAPO, the box was without oil, opened the automatic transmission crankcase, replaced the filter, put the crankcase in place. I poured Mobil ATF LT 71141 oil, poured it through a syringe, according to the method, with the selector running through all the “stops”. Climbed a good 13 liters (total capacity 13.5). I guess 0.5 liters were lost in the oil pump, oil passages and valve body. After full filling, we closed the filler cap and decided to drive a little. When setting the D / R selector position, the tension on the wheels confidently appeared. They opened the garage door, the selector on D, release the brake, the car does not go (I assumed that the brakes had rusted), I gave a little more gas, the car slowly and reluctantly drove forward. After 5 meters, she stopped, a message came on on the tidy that the box was in emergency mode “Getriebeprogramm” and the automatic transmission indicator on the dashboard went out. By resetting, it turns out to reset the message, but when any selector position is set, except for N / P, the message appears again and the selector position indicator goes out.

The car returned back to the garage with the help of pushing force.

All electrical connections have been checked.

In my practice, I have not come across automatic transmission at all (there is no one to consult the same), therefore I do not know what to do.

I ask for your ideas, what are your thoughts? what can you check?
How repairable are ZF boxes?

not the fact that it is, but still. Sometimes I got up in emergency mode, as if I just waited for a friend for a long time at the dacha, I just decided to clean the contacts on the track in a yellow box (I don’t know what it’s called correctly) cleaned it and since then the emergency mode comes to visit very very rarely, before that literally 20 times a day I got up in emergency mode. By the way, it was so simple, in addition to oil, poured dextron 2, kick as much food as you want for the second year without consequences, got the car for a penny, I decided to experiment)))

It all depends on what was with this box, why was it without oil? What did the residual oil look like? Perhaps there is some kind of full valve body, and from a long lying down, it all sour there, to begin with, try to make diagnostics, and everything can be there, from a banal wedged valve in r / w and cracks in the channel, to crumpled clutches, it’s difficult to just say so ... The box is quite maintainable, but it's not cheap.

It all depends on what was with this box, why was it without oil? What did the residual oil look like? Perhaps there is some kind of full valve body, and from a long lying down, it all sour there, to begin with, try to make diagnostics, and everything can be there, from a banal wedged valve in r / w and cracks in the channel, to crumpled clutches, it’s difficult to just say so ... The box is quite maintainable, but it's not cheap.

Regarding maintainability, I wonder if it's worth contacting? or easier to buy a contract.

The oil was thickened and black, slightly burned (smelling). the magnet looked like a hedgehog! the development is clearly present!

Regarding maintainability, I wonder if it's worth contacting? or easier to buy a contract.

The oil was thickened and black, slightly burned (smelling). the magnet looked like a hedgehog! the development is clearly present!

Then it is better to arrange a bulkhead for her, if the hands are from where it is needed and the funds allow, you can sort it out yourself, a budget of about 20 rubles for repairs. It all depends on what the shavings are.

Members of the forum, I urge you once again. Here is a 5hp30 box, like number one, but in fact there are a lot of models. age_id = id_5hp30 and everything in table 5hp30. But I think that each such automatic transmission uses its own ECU or at least its own firmware.is there any correspondence table? or something like that to understand this house?

It is not clear you are asking the question, what is needed? If you determine which one, then it's not difficult, I think to determine which box is on your car, you climb under it and look at the number, compare it with those on the site on this one, look at the old box, the one that you changed for the contract, if it remains, of course, I think the one that was removed is most likely not a fact of course, but. And you figure out x. to the nose. There, in my opinion, it is very sensibly written in the table, what modifications were put on and when, I do not understand what the problem is? For different modifications, the control algorithm may be different, the brains, respectively. What kind of car?

E32 machine. She was like that from birth. it is now only a body model. full custom under the hood. M62 with brains from the M60. box from M60 (to restyle). now I will buy another one and want to buy a restyled box, due to the fact that it is newer and it already has standard outputs for an external heat exchanger. and there is a plus a couple more positive points. as a result of which he asked himself: "do we need other brains for the box?"

Post has been edited shell303: 21 April 2015 - 06:35

jimbatan 16 April 2015

Early diagnosis, cheaper than late repair (C)

In some automatic transmission repair shops I even diagnose for free 😉

Post has been editedjimbatan: 16 April 2015 - 10:26

analysis will show, and it is better not to delay ..

This is already kirdyk. Slip is called 100% repair or replacement.

all packages cannot skid at the same time. The problem is in the bagel (no torque is transmitted) or the pump (there is no pressure to compress the bags). ALL.

The 5-speed automatic transmission ZF5HP30 was a revolutionary engineering discovery that helped exclusive cars with an engine capacity of more than 4.5 liters to acquire a powerful automatic transmission that allows them to transfer maximum revs. The closest relative in the segment can be called the 5HP24 gearbox, which is installed on cars with lower revs. Despite the fact that some elements were interchangeable with the 5HP24, the ZF5HP30 automatic transmission was distinguished by its long service life and reliability.

It is quite difficult to meet this automatic transmission, since its main audience is luxurious and expensive luxury cars Aston Martin, Rolls-Royce, Bentley. In the Russian market, the box could most often be found on the BMW five, where it was installed until 2003, before it was replaced with the 6HP series.

Even such ideal mechanisms sometimes fail. So among the problem areas of the ZF5HP30 are weak clutches and metal clutch packs Clutch E1, A, F. However, during overhaul, most auto mechanics advise changing large clutches. Sometimes the Forw / Rev drum fails. Clutch A + C, on which the teeth are chipped from time to time. To be sure, you can also change the solenoids, especially if the first overhaul occurs every 7 years.

Automatic transmission ZF 5HP30 is installed on the following vehicles:

Welcome to the Audi Allroad Owners Club.

The queue came to the box. Everything was sorted out, washed, scrupulously examined and no crime was identified. All the rubber bands changed and a couple of freaks just didn't like it. Almost everything was collected, it was the turn of the main pair. and this is not a pleasant surprise, or I don’t understand something. Cages of tapered bearings are inserted by hand into the seats, both in the housing of the box and in the cover of the main pair Photo of the details below. Can anyone come across such a problem

Photo in pairs.
The first two: the cover of the main pair of the clip inside and pulled out
Second pair: clip in the body and pulled out
PS: haven't googled about such a problem yet.

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In general, you called Vova, and that person was me.

Here is the oil that Mona pour into our boxes without steaming anything. I bought it in the Moscow shopping center. 340 r liter each.

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Something incomprehensible description of this oil. it seems that what should be listed and written about dextron. Did you pour it to yourself? He has some kind of number or something like how to find him, I'm not from Moscow.

Now we climbed into the pit with a friend, looked, I have a black plate, therefore, I need Shell LA 2634 - 83229407765, and I only found Esso at a good price ((

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Recommended for use in vehicles that require:

Honda, Acura - ATF – Z1 (except in CVTs)
Toyota, Lexus - Type T, T – III, T – IV
Nissan, Infiniti - Matic – D, Matic – J
BMW - LA2634, LT71141
Mitsubishi - Diamond SP – II, SP – III
Hyundai - SP – II, SP – III
Volvo (except 5 speed)

Also meets requirements of

ATF + 3®, ATF + 2®, ATF + ®
Ford MERCON®, MERCON® V (Not for use where MERCON® SP is required).
General Motors DEXRON® – III H and prior (Not for use where DEXRON® – VI is required).
Allison C – 4

suitable for both

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Zy6acTiY, it turns out the oil that you suggested, you can pour it both in 5HR30 with a black and green sticker. And also in all other boxes 4НР20, 5НР18, etc. And, apparently, you can mix with native oils?

They also told me at the service station: “Why did you buy such an expensive original? Filled with Dextron-3 and that's it. "

But before that, I carefully studied the information from the Internet. Here are some links:
zfoilguide.html

Answer from technik:
To S325iX:
Two grades of oil, Shell LA 2634 and Esso LT 71 141, are OILS FOR THE FULL LIFE OF THE automatic transmission and do not require replacement, except for repairs. As you should understand, this type of oil differs sharply from the others both in composition (additives, etc.), and in price, because does not need to be replaced. Your favorite CASTROL TRANSMAX Z oil is a regular oil and cannot be considered durable, because must be replaced in accordance with the maintenance schedule. As, probably, you were told in ARTEX, so I also inform you for the first time, for automatic transmission 5HP-30 only:
Shell LA 2634 - for automatic transmission with black type plate
Esso LT 71 141 - for automatic transmission with a green type plate.
THE SPECIFIED VARIETIES OF OILS SHOULD NOT BE MIXED BETWEEN YOURSELF, WITH OTHER VARIETIES OF OIL, AND ALSO REPLACE WITH OTHER VARIETIES. Otherwise, the automatic transmission will fail! Which, as I understand it, happened.
By the way, transmission oil for VAZ cars in Moscow is almost twice as cheap as CASTROL oils, and even more so SHELL oils.

Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day

CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts

Well, here it is clear what the conversation is about.

# 1 Post vladd Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:38 pm

# 2 Post KOYT Wed Feb 10, 2009 7:56 pm

# 3 Post vladd Wed Feb 10, 2009 9:56 pm

# 4 Post KOYT Wed Feb 11, 2009 1:32 pm

# 5 Post Shurpa_Korobkin 09-03-08, 09:16

# 6 Post Kazan Feb 12, 2009 10:14 pm

# 7 Post KOYT Feb 13, 2009 2:34 pm

# 8 Post Kazan Feb 13, 2009 9:36 pm

# 9 Post trubean Feb 13, 2009 11:43 pm

# 10 Post Drum Sat Feb 14, 2009 1:51 am

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AGGREGATKA is a federal network of technical centers, the main specialization of which is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including robotic transmissions with double clutch, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions

AGGREGATKA is a federal network of technical centers, the main specialization of which is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including robotic transmissions with double clutch, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions

Attention! Car service network of favorable prices. Camber check is FREE! No queues! Repair on the same day!

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5-speed automatic transmission ZF 5HP30 -developed specifically for 4.5-liter engines with maximum torque. One of the strongest ZF boxes.

Automatic transmission 5HP30 has been installed since 1991 on Bentleys, Rolls-Royce and Aston Martin, as well as BMW 5 series of Russian assembly. Here this "automatic" was used until 2003, after which it was replaced by 6-speed 6HP.

The main malfunctions of the ZF 5HP30 automatic transmission:

• wear of fractions and steel clutch discs;
• failure of the drum (teeth are cut off);
• piston wear;
• replacement of solenoids is recommended after 7-9 years;
• breakage in the hydraulic valve plate.

Otherwise, this type of automatic transmission is very reliable and “ages” more slowly than the car itself. It is enough to undergo scheduled maintenance and diagnostics to postpone the overhaul of the ZF 5HP30 for a long time.

If there are shocks, jerks and extraneous noise in the automatic transmission, sign up for a free diagnosis at the Global Transmission car service by phone:

An automatic transmission is an expensive component. There is no point in delaying the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are expensive. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for the details. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that repairing automatic transmissions with their own hands is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of the workshop masters cannot be called modest, and the professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists can decide to fix the problem on their own.

Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes according to the following scheme:

• diagnostics,
• dismantling the box,
• disassembly of the box,
• complete set with spare parts,
• assembly (installation),
• installation on a car,
• diagnostics after repair.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, a certain amount of time to work with, patience and perseverance.

All automatic transmissions are arranged the same, but there are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their renovation has some differences.

It is important to notice transmission problems at the earliest possible stage. Then, with the correct diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often these are extraneous sounds when changing gears or during robotic transmission. It can be crunching, clicks. An unpleasant smell also speaks of problems. It can appear during long-term or short-term operation of the box. It is worse if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.

Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Red spots will indicate an oil leak from the transmission. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No burning smells or muddy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.

Automatic transmission malfunctions often arise due to improper operation. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or overheating. For this reason, the gears wear out, the machine can jerk when changing gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks when driving indicate overheating of the oil and the appearance of problems in the valve body.

Aggressive driving with hard acceleration and braking will erase details. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and has a bad effect on its general condition.

All faults are divided into two subgroups. They can occur in

• electronic control system,
• mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.

If a malfunction occurs, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it goes into third speed and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the display.

If problems have arisen with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.

In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to consult a specialist. Determine what the problem is at the service station, and take care of the repair yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time on diagnostics. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.

General scheme of diagnostic procedures:

• check the oil,
• check the operation of the engine at idle speed, the connection points of the wiring and cables,
• determine the error codes of the operation of the control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
• check the box on a car without movement,
• check the automatic transmission in motion,
• check the pressure inside the control system.

If the cause of the malfunctions is electronics problems, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the transmission ratio and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:

• input sensors,
• electronic control unit,
• executive devices of the control system,
• violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring connections.

The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If some parameters are out of order, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decrypt such numbers using a special scanner.

These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conventionally divided into three subgroups:

1. Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
2. Defective transformer. This includes:
   • breaks in the splines of the wires,
   • mechanical destruction of the blades,
   • overrunning clutch,
   • wear of the main blocking clutch,
   • depressurization of the piston oil seal.
   • Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.

If the diagnostics were successful and you cannot do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of the automatic transmission repair.

You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to perform this procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It will not be superfluous to invite several physically strong guys to help you move the removed box. Its weight is beyond the strength of even a very strong person. Further action plan:

1. disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
2. unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
3. remove and move the gearbox;
4. assess the scale of the breakdown and start repairing.

Before removing the gearbox, the oil does not need to be drained from it. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the place where the oil supply pipes are attached when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.

All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines on the input shaft of the diaphragm.

It is better to do automatic transmission repair with your own hands, having it at hand proprietary manual and a printed diagram of the gearbox. First you need to inspect all the systems that serve the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we proceed to the repair. For this:

1. We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
2. We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn out parts.
3. Remove the inhibitor block and sump. We clean out the dirt inside. It looks like metal magnetic shavings.
4. We remove the wiring of the ring from the plug and push them inside the plug.
5. Remove the valve body, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the valve body.
6. We check the clutches, gears and planetary gears for wear. We will replace it if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
7. We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its term. We use the manual so as not to swap parts.
8. We take out the valves and springs. We wash the valves. Their sticking can be the reason for incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. Replace the accumulator springs if they are broken.
9. Putting everything back into place. It is important not to confuse anything!
10. We replace rings and friction bolts.
11. We check the gear shift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.

Assembly takes place upside-down.

There are some points that it is advisable to take into account when repairing. Often a transmission problem is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special stopper does not allow you to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. Assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten here.

If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. During these works, the following recommendations should be adhered to:

• When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the diaphragm is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
• The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of transmission oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and put on the input shaft. You need to achieve a secure connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. The crankcases must abut completely.
• Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps along the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correctness of the connections is checked.
• At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.

Beginning the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If at least one is missing, the automatic transmission cannot be attached.

Automatic transmission repair and diagnostics do it yourself - not an easy, but feasible task. Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice car enthusiasts believe that repairing it at home is impossible. This is not true. But before deciding to carry out such important work at home, you need to weigh all your possibilities. Then you will not be in for unpleasant surprises during the renovation.