5hp30 DIY repair

By installing an unrepaired torque converter on a newly restored automatic transmission, you run the risk of immediately breaking the box again, because. it will contain all the wear products of the torque converter, and in the worst case, the metal parts of the bearings or blades.
Do you want to buy a used torque converter? Do not rush to make a mistake! It is impossible to guess the quality of an automatic transmission hydraulic clutch control unit, moreover, bought at the same price as a reliable repair. We offer the exchange of your torque converter for an already repaired one from our warehouse, or we can carry out a high-quality overhaul in our workshop.

We also carry out a quick repair of your torque converter in 1-2 hours right in front of you. You yourself will see all its breakdowns. At the same time, we do not make an extra charge for the urgency of work.

1) Torque converter cutting.
The welding seam that connects the two halves is carefully cut off, while leaving as much metal as possible. With proper cutting, the torque converter can be easily disassembled and reassembled 2-3 more times on occasion. Unfortunately, many transformer repair shops cleanly cut off all the metal from the case on the first cut.

2) After cleaning all parts from oil and wear products, the repair itself begins. If necessary, a new torque converter lock-up clutch is glued, the body surface is leveled under the new clutch. And here unscrupulous repairmen again have problems out of the blue. They machine the housing for the new friction clutch in such a way that they cut off almost all the metal through, because of this, then through cracks appear. A normal master is careful and does not remove excess metal. Then other necessary spare parts are replaced - bearings, o-rings, stuffing box, etc. If necessary, a new neck is welded into the transformer cover. This procedure requires accuracy and accuracy, because. usually unskilled workers are not able to cut a hole in the lid to fit the new neck, but drill it half a millimeter more, which is fraught with beating and imbalance.

3) Assembly.
It is extremely important to weld both halves of the torque converter back as they were at the factory. In this case, it is necessary to minimize the axial runout between the two halves (balancing) and ensure the tightness of the seam.For a good craftsman, even the appearance of the repaired unit matters, which is why, after repair in GIDROTOR, the torque converter looks the same as a new one made at the factory.

In the video, the usual average result of our repair is a runout of 6 hundredths of a millimeter with an allowable runout of 3 tenths.

Good day to all. And happy holidays.

I have a problem and its name is 5hp30.

It was like this: They did a swap, the box was without oil, opened the automatic transmission crankcase, replaced the filter, put the crankcase in place. I filled in Mobil ATF LT 71141 oil, filled it through a syringe, according to the method, with the selector running through all the “stops”. Climbed a good 13 liters (total capacity 13.5). I believe 0.5 liters are lost in the oil pump, oil channels and valve body. After a full fill, they closed the filler plug and decided to drive a little. When setting the position of the selector D / R confidently appeared tension on the wheels. We opened the garage door, the selector was on D, I released the brake, the car did not move (I assumed that the brakes were rusty), I gave a little more gas, the car slowly and reluctantly drove forward. After 5 meters it stopped, a message appeared on the dashboard that the box was in emergency mode “Getriebeprogramm” and the automatic transmission indicator on the dashboard went out. By resetting, it turns out to reset the message, but when the selector is set to any position other than N / P, the message appears again and the selector position indicator goes out.

Back the car returned to the garage with the help of pushing force.

All electrical connections have been checked.

I have never encountered automatic transmission in my practice (there is no one to consult with), therefore I don’t know what to do.

I ask for your ideas, what are your thoughts? what can be checked?
How repairable are ZF boxes?

Not sure what it is, but still. I sometimes got up in emergency mode, once I just waited for a friend for a long time in the country, I just decided to clean the contacts on the track in a yellow box (I don’t know what it’s called correctly), I cleaned it and since then the emergency mode comes to visit very very rarely, literally before that 20 times a day got up in emergency mode. By the way, it’s so easy to add oil to dextron 2, kick as much food as you want for the second year without consequences, I got the car for a penny, I decided to experiment)))

It all depends on what was with this box, why was it without oil? What did the rest of the oil look like? Perhaps there is some kind of complete valve body, and from a long stay, it all turned sour there, for a start, try to make a diagnosis, and everything can be there, from a banal stuck valve in a hot-water tank and a crack in the channel, to worn-out friction clutches, it’s hard to just say so . The box is quite repairable, but it's not cheap.

It all depends on what was with this box, why was it without oil? What did the rest of the oil look like? Perhaps there is some kind of complete valve body, and from a long stay, it all turned sour there, for a start, try to make a diagnosis, and everything can be there, from a banal stuck valve in a hot-water tank and a crack in the channel, to worn-out friction clutches, it’s hard to just say so . The box is quite repairable, but it's not cheap.

Regarding maintainability, I wonder if it's worth contacting? or easier to buy a contract.

The oil was thick and black, slightly burnt (smelling). the magnet looked like a hedgehog! clearly there is work!

Regarding maintainability, I wonder if it's worth contacting? or easier to buy a contract.

The oil was thick and black, slightly burnt (smelling). the magnet looked like a hedgehog! clearly there is work!

Then it is better to arrange a bulkhead for her, if the hands are from where it is necessary and the funds allow, you will sort it out yourself, the budget is about 20 rubles for repairs. It all depends on what the chip is there.

Members of the forum, once again I urge you. here is a 5hp30 box, it seems to be number one, but in fact there are a lot of models. age_id=id_5hp30 and everything in the 5hp30 table. But I think that each such automatic transmission uses its own ECU, or at least its own firmware.Is there any correspondence table? or something like that to understand this house?

It is not clear you ask the question, what do you need? If you determine which one, it’s not difficult, I think to determine which box is on your car, you climb under it and look at the number, compare it with those on the site on this one, look at the old box, the one that changed to the contract, if it remains, of course, I think the one that was removed is most likely, not a fact of course, but. And guess x. to the nose. There, in my opinion, it is very sensible in the table that it is written what modifications were put on what and when, I don’t understand what the problem is? For different modifications, the control algorithm may be different, the brains, respectively. What is the car?

E32 car. She was like this from birth. now it is only a body model. under the hood full custom. M62 with brains from M60. box from M60 (to restyling). Now I will buy another one and I want to buy a restyled box, because it is newer and it already has standard outputs for an external heat exchanger. and there are a couple of other plus points. as a result of which he asked himself the question: “do I need other brains for the box?”

Post has been edited by shell303: 21 April 2015 – 06:35

jimbatan 16 April 2015

Early diagnosis, cheaper than late repair (C)

In some automatic transmission repair shops I even diagnose for free 😉

Post has been edited by jimbatan: 16 April 2015 – 10:26

analysis will show, and it is better not to delay ..

This is already kirdyk. Slippage is called. 100% repair or replacement.

all packets cannot stall at the same time. The problem is in the bagel (no torque is transmitted) or the pump (no pressure to compress the packages). ALL.

The ZF5HP30 5-speed automatic transmission was a revolutionary engineering breakthrough that helped exclusive cars with an engine capacity of more than 4.5 liters to acquire a powerful automatic transmission that allows you to transfer maximum speed. The closest relative in the segment can be called the 5HP24 box, which is installed on cars with lower revs. Despite the fact that some elements turned out to be interchangeable with the 5HP24, the ZF5HP30 automatic transmission has a long service life and reliability.

It is quite difficult to meet this automatic transmission, since its main audience is luxurious and expensive luxury cars Aston Martin, Rolls-Royce, Bentley. In the Russian market, the box could most often be found on the BMW five, where it was installed until 2003 before being replaced by the 6HP series.

Even such ideal mechanisms sometimes fail. So among the problem areas of the ZF5HP30 are weak clutches and metal clutch packs Clutch E1, A, F. However, during the overhaul, most auto mechanics advise changing large clutches. Sometimes the Forw/Rev drum fails. Clutch A + C, on which the teeth are cramped from time to time. To be sure, solenoids can also be changed, especially if the first overhaul occurs every 7 years.

ZF 5HP30 automatic transmission is installed on the following vehicles:

Welcome to the Audi Allroad Owners Club.

It's time for the box. Everything was sorted out, washed, scrupulously looked around and no crime was revealed. All the rubber bands have changed and a couple of freaks just didn't like it. Almost everyone was collected, it was the turn of the main couple. and here is not a pleasant surprise or something I do not understand. Tapered bearing cages are inserted by hand into the seats, both in the housing of the box and in the cover of the main pair Photo of details below. Maybe someone faced such a problem

Photo in pairs.
The first two: the cover of the main pair of the clip is inside and pulled out
Second pair: clip in case and pulled out
PS: have not googled about such a problem yet.

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In general, you called Vova, and that person was me.

here is the oil that mona pour into our boxes without worrying about anything. Bought in shopping center Moscow. 340 r liter.

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Something incomprehensible description to this oil. like and what should be listed and written about dextron. Did you pour it on yourself? He has some number or something like how to find him, I'm not from Moscow.

Now I was climbing into a hole with a friend, they looked, I have a black plate, therefore, I need Shell LA 2634 - 83229407765, and I only found Esso at a good price ((

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Recommended for use in vehicles that require:

Honda, Acura - ATF-Z1 (except in CVTs)
Toyota, Lexus - Type T, T-III, T-IV
Nissan, Infiniti - Matic-D, Matic-J
BMW - LA2634, LT71141
Mitsubishi - Diamond SP-II, SP-III
Hyundai-SP-II, SP-III
Volvo (except 5 speed)

Also meets the requirements of

ATF+3®, ATF+2®, ATF+®
Ford MERCON®, MERCON® V (Not for use where MERCON® SP is required).
General Motors DEXRON®–III H and prior (Not for use where DEXRON®–VI is required).
Allison C–4

suitable for both

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Zy6acTiY, it turns out the oil that you suggested can be poured both in 5HP30 with a black and green sticker. And also in all other boxes 4НР20, 5НР18, etc. And, apparently, you can mix with native oils?

They also told me at the service station: “Why did you buy such an expensive original? They would flood Dextron-3 and that's it. “

But before that, I carefully studied the information from the Internet. Here are some links:
zfoilguide.html

Answer from technik:
To S325iX:
Two grades of oil, Shell LA 2634 and Esso LT 71 141, are LIFETIME OILS and do not require replacement except for repairs. As you should understand, this type of oil differs sharply from the rest both in composition (additives, etc.) and in price, because. does not need to be replaced. Your favorite CASTROL TRANSMAX Z oil is a regular oil and cannot be considered a long life oil. must be replaced in accordance with the maintenance schedule. As you were probably told in ARTEX, so I inform you for the third time, for automatic transmission 5HP-30 can only be used:
Shell LA 2634 - for automatic transmission with black type plate
Esso LT 71 141 - for automatic transmissions with a green type plate.
THE SPECIFIED TYPES OF OILS SHOULD NOT BE MIXED WITH OTHER TYPES OF OIL, AND ALSO REPLACE WITH OTHER GRADES. Otherwise, the automatic transmission will fail! Which, as I understand it, happened.
By the way, transmission oil for VAZ cars in Moscow is almost a ditch cheaper than CASTROL brand oils, and even more so SHELL.

Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day

CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts

Well, here it is clear what the conversation is about.

#1 Message vladd » Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:38 pm

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The AGREGATKA company is a federal network of technical centers whose main specialization is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including dual-clutch robotic transmissions, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions

The AGREGATKA company is a federal network of technical centers whose main specialization is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including dual-clutch robotic transmissions, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions

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5-speed automatic transmission ZF 5HP30 - designed specifically for engines with a volume of 4.5 liters and having maximum torque. One of the most durable boxes from ZF.

The 5HP30 automatic transmission has been installed since 1991 on Bentley, Rolls-Royce and Aston Martin, as well as the Russian-assembled BMW 5 series. Here, this "automatic" was used until 2003, after which it was replaced by 6-speed 6HP.

The main malfunctions of the automatic transmission ZF 5HP30:

• wear of fractions and steel clutch discs;
• failure of the drum (teeth are cut off);
• piston wear;
• replacement of solenoids is recommended after 7-9 years;
• breakage in the hydraulic valve plate.

Otherwise, this type of automatic transmission is very reliable and "ages" more slowly than the car itself. It is enough to undergo scheduled maintenance and diagnostics in order to postpone the overhaul of the ZF 5HP30 for a long time.

If there are shocks, jerks and extraneous noises in the automatic transmission, sign up for a free diagnostics at the Global Transmission car service by phone:

An automatic transmission is an expensive unit. It makes no sense to delay the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are an expensive pleasure. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for parts. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that do-it-yourself automatic transmission repair is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of service station masters cannot be called modest, and professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists may decide to troubleshoot on their own.

Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes as follows:

• diagnostics,
• dismantling the box
• box disassembly,
• spare parts kit,
• assembly (installation),
• car installation,
• diagnostics after repair.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, a certain amount of time to work, patience and perseverance.

All automatic transmissions are arranged in the same way, but There are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their repair has some differences.

It is important to notice problems in the transmission at an early stage. Then, with proper diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often, these are extraneous sounds when shifting gears or during transmission robots. It can be a crunch, clicks. An unpleasant smell also indicates problems. It can appear during long or short-term operation of the box. Worse, if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.

Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Spots of red color will indicate an oil leak from the gearbox. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No smells of burnt or cloudy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.

Automatic transmission malfunctions often occur due to improper use. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or its overheating. For this reason, gears wear out, the machine can jerk when switching gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks during movement indicate oil overheating and problems in the valve body.

Aggressive driving with hard accelerations and decelerations will cause details to be erased. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and badly affects its general condition.

All faults are divided into two subgroups. They may occur in

• electronic control system,
• mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.

In the event of a malfunction, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it becomes in third gear and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the board.

If problems arose with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.

In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to turn to specialists. Determine what the problem is in the service station, and repair it yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time diagnosing. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.

The general scheme for carrying out diagnostic procedures:

• check the oil
• check the operation of the engine at idle, the connection points of the electrical wiring and cables,
• determine the error codes for the operation of control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
• check the box on the car without movement,
• check the automatic transmission in motion,
• check the pressure inside the control system.

If the cause of the malfunctions is problems with the electronics, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the gear ratio of the gearbox and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:

• input sensors,
• electronic control unit,
• executive devices of the control system,
• violation of the integrity of electrical wiring connections.

The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If any parameters are out of the norm, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decipher such numbers using a special scanner.

These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conditionally divided into three subgroups:

1. Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
2. Transformer failure. This includes:
   • wire breaks,
   • mechanical destruction of the blades,
   • overrunning clutch,
   • wear of the main locking clutch,
   • depressurization of the piston seal.
   • Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.

If the diagnosis was successful and you can’t do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of automatic transmission repair.

You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to carry out such a procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It would be useful to invite a few physically strong guys to help move the removed box. Her weight is beyond the power of even a very strong person. Further action plan:

1. disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
2. unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
3. remove and move the gearbox;
4. assess the extent of the damage and proceed with the repair.

Before removing the gearbox, the oil from it can not be drained. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the attachment point of the oil supply pipes when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.

All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines of the diaphragm input shaft.

Do-it-yourself automatic transmission repair is best done with a company manual and a printed gearbox diagram. First you need to inspect all systems serving the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we start repairing. For this:

1. We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
2. We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn parts.
3. Remove the inhibitor block and pan. We clean the dirt inside. It looks like a metal magnetic chip.
4. Remove the ring wires from the plug and push them inside the plug.
5. Remove the hydraulic unit, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the hydraulic unit.
6. Clutches, gears and planetaries are checked for wear. We replace if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
7. We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its time. We use the manual so as not to change parts in places.
8. We take out the valves and springs. Flush valves. Their sticking can be the cause of incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. We change the accumulator springs if they are broken.
9. Putting everything back in place. It is important not to confuse anything!
10. Replace rings and friction bolts.
11. We check the gearshift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.

Assembly is in reverse order.

There are some points that it is desirable to take into account when repairing. Often the problem with the operation of the gearbox is related to the filter. You will not be able to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the hydraulic unit completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special limiter does not allow to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. When assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overdo it here.

If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. When doing this, the following guidelines should be followed:

• When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the membrane is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
• The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of gear oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and placed on the input shaft. It is necessary to achieve a reliable connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. Carters must adjoin completely.
• Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps over the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correct connections are checked.
• At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.

Starting the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the engine crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If there is not at least one, it is impossible to mount the automatic transmission.

Repair and diagnostics of automatic transmission with your own hands is not an easy, but feasible task. Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice motorists believe that its repair at home is impossible. This is not true. But before you decide to carry out such responsible work at home, you need to weigh all your options. Then you will not expect unpleasant surprises during the repair.