Adlx65ndc3a DIY repair

Lenovo power supply, model ADP-065KH B 20V 3.25A.
PWM DAP013F, key 2SK3569, pnp transistor in the gate; in the secondary housing DAS001. 2-pin plug.

Blown fuse, PWM, resistors in the feedback and in the gate, a 0.2 Ohm resistor in the source, PNP transistor in the gate. The 120uFx420V capacitor was swollen and dripped.

I replaced everything burnt, washed, dried. Shim DAP013F did not find. There was DAP013D, and put it. For reliability, I replaced the key with FDPF10N60Z.

I turn it on through the lamp, the lamp does not light up. At the output of the power supply unit “0.0”, voltage does not appear even for a short time.
BUT!
On the PWM power capacitor 9-13V in jumps.
I tried to disconnect the optocoupler - the output is unchanged.

Question:
1. Tell me about the PWMs, does anyone have information on how DAP013F differs from DAP013D?
2. Where to look for a malfunction?

When buying a laptop or netbook, or rather calculating the budget for this purchase, we do not take into account further associated costs. The laptop itself costs, say, $ 500, but another $ 20 bag, $ 10 mouse. The battery when replaced (and its warranty life is only a couple of years) will cost $ 100, and the same will be the cost of the power supply if it burns out.

It is about him that the conversation will go here. One not very wealthy friend recently stopped working the power supply for an acer laptop. You will have to pay almost a hundred dollars for a new one, so it would be quite logical to try to fix it yourself. The PSU itself is a traditional black plastic box with an electronic pulse converter inside, providing a voltage of 19V at a current of 3A. This is the standard for most laptops and the only difference between them is the power plug :). Immediately I give here several diagrams of power supplies - click to enlarge.

When the power supply is turned on, nothing happens - the LED does not light up and the voltmeter shows zero at the output. Checking the power cord with an ohmmeter gave nothing. We disassemble the case. Although it's easier said than done: there are no screws or screws provided here, so we'll break it! To do this, you need to put a knife on the connecting seam and hit it lightly with a hammer. Do not overdo it, or cut the board!

After the case is slightly parted, we insert a flat screwdriver into the formed gap and with force we draw along the contour of the connection of the halves of the case, gently breaking it along the seam.

Having disassembled the case, we check the board and parts for anything black and charred.

The dialing of the input circuits of the 220V mains voltage revealed a malfunction - this is a self-healing fuse, which for some reason did not want to recover from an overload :)

We replace it with a similar one, or with a simple fusible one with a current of 3 amperes and check the operation of the power supply unit. The green LED lit up, indicating the presence of 19V, but there is still nothing on the connector. More precisely, sometimes something slips, as if the wire is bent.

We'll also have to repair the power supply cord to the laptop. Most often, a break occurs at the point where it is inserted into the case or at the power connector.

We cut it off first at the body - no luck. Now near the plug that is inserted into the laptop - again there is no contact!

A hard case - a cliff somewhere in the middle. The easiest option is to cut the cord in half and leave the working half, and discard the non-working one. And so he did.

We solder the connectors back and carry out the tests. Everything worked - the repair is over.

It remains only to glue the halves of the case with glue “moment” and give the power supply to the customer. The entire BP repair took no more than an hour.

On examination, a burned-out transistor K10A60D was found changed to P10NK60ZFP and the fused resistors R5 - 0.18 ohm were replaced with 0.15 ohm. R36 3 Lump is replaced with a new one.The 4.7 * 50v capacitor was replaced with a new one.

A voltage of about 297 is present across the large capacitor.

But the output voltage did not appear. Tell me where to measure further and how to look for a malfunction.

Tell me, is there a diagram for it?

drawing the hot part is easy
this table will help you find a suitable shim

if I understand correctly then this is 22ARZV but how to check it?

well, at least at least they could have guessed to check it by the power, driver and OS pins.

Found this on the Internet

Marking 22ARZV
Conclusions.
1. judging by the board, overvoltage protection, thermal protection ..
2. FB
3. CS
4. GND
5. DRV
6. VCC

I measure it with a tester and put the black wire on the 4 foot, and on the rest it shows 58 volts everywhere.

Or do you just need to check it with an oscilloscope?

And tell me what to substitute there, that is, I can't find this 22ARZV where I can find it.

Under the microscope, seemingly small balls of tin emerged from it. Most likely it is dead than to replace it?

mde. and to draw a schematic and think a bit how, where and in relation to what measurements to make means not to offer? attempts to find a ready-made punch card on the internet are commendable, but still learn how to punch them for yourself.
draw, think, look through some docks with suitable fittings, such as some kind of NCP1250 that came to hand, think about what parameters are needed in the circuit and look for analogs in the shops.

I explain the situation.
Previously, Belarusians took tons of them for restoration from me.
I bought it in lots from the officials.
Then they changed the profile and stopped taking.
Now there are remnants of those times - about 500.
SLOWLY sold for reconditioning or on cords for the actual price of ORIGINAL cords.
If someone is interested, I can either throw off the rest or even resume the purchase of lots with faulty power supplies.

And so the idea already arose to break the power supply unit, leave the cords for sale, and sell the power supply units for refining (if anyone does not know, for processing into copper, aluminum and precious metal).
They also buy plastic for recycling, but it's cheap, so I just throw away the plastic.
For there is no room for consolidation.

Further - I listen to suggestions, if any.
Better in the LAN and with telephones (and the time of the call on the MSC - I have almost no limit in the Russian Federation (only Crimea and something like Yakutia are not included there)

_________________
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Supply of spare parts and components for laptop repair.
Matrices
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Today I will talk about how to carefully open a glued (soldered) power supply from a laptop, monitor or printer... Such power supplies are often found and many have a lot of questions - how to open them without breaking them at all... Subject for today - external glued power supply unit SAD04214A from Samsung 960BF monitor... By the way, the declared malfunction of this couple is a spontaneous shutdown.

I will tell you how to disassemble the Samsung SyncMaster 960BF monitor later. So, we have a power supply, the output of which has 14 volts of constant voltage and a maximum current of 3 amperes.

The plug of this power supply unit is made, we can say classically - the internal output is "+14 V", the external one is the common wire.

This is how it looks power supply seam monitor before disassembling.

Especially for the readers, I took off video of the disassembly process... This video is suitable for any glued power adapter for laptop, monitor, printer or other equipment. The main principle is to insert a sharp tool into the seam of the power supply and confident blows split it in two.

This is how it should look power supply seam after opening.

Taking out the board, I saw a characteristic darkening of the PCB, which indicates overheating elements on the board.

As a result poor quality soldering at the factory - microcracks in the solder have formed. Because of this, the resistance of the "resistor-track" contact increased and it began to heat up more intensively, from which the microcrack expanded, because the mechanical strength of the solder, as is known, decreases with increasing temperature. First microcrack under the resistor.

The second microcrack in the solder.

The third crack was detected already at wobbling resistor, the leg of which is soldered to the board tracks at this point.

Above the resistors are filled with some kind of rubber foam. It is possible that it worsens the heat transfer between the elements inside the power supply case.

We remove this glue and see overheated resistors... The paint even charred on them at the point where the metal leads were connected to the resistor case.

We solder these resistors and change to the like. The resistor on the left is 33k ohms and the right is 33 ohms.

I determined it by resistor marking table color coded ring.

Soldering resistors in place and we do not regret solder and flux... Overheated pads of the PCB tracks do not hold the solder well.

That's what happened from the side of radioelements.

Be sure to check condition of electrolytic capacitors, who are afraid of overheating. Just look at how flat the top is to make sure everything is okay. But if you change, then only for capacitors Rubycon 1000 uF 25 V and capacitors Nippon 2200 uF 25 V... There are cheaper of the decent ones (but always by 105 degrees) Samwha 2200 uF 25 V.

This completes the repair of the power supply. It remains to collect everything back into the case and check for stability. Now you can feel how carefully you disassembled the power supply case. If both halves converge with a seam width of about 1 mm, then everything is fine, if more, then plastic burrs along the seam may interfere. They need to be removed with a knife or side cutters.

As soon as we achieve a satisfying seam, drip a few drops (I usually drip at 6-8 points) onto the seam of "Second" type glue and press the body with something heavy for 5 minutes. Now everything is ready - repaired power supply unit SAD04214A from Samsung 960BF monitor and glued back after opening.

Happy renovation!
Your Solder Master.

Don't forget to check the C107 with a meter. In 90% of cases, either dried out or leaked.

Thanks for the addition. I completely agree.

Indeed, there was a problem in him - short circuit.

You never measure ESR at conductors, but in vain!

If I had something to measure, then I would measure it. And so, I just call for a breakdown. But Underzen is right, the ESR should ideally be measured.

Good afternoon. Interesting site, thank you for sharing your best practices ...

Regarding the power supply unit in sealed cases (even "in forks"). Once they taught me, so I decided to share - your idea is correct, you need to open it at the seam with an eagerly strong knife, not very hardened, so as not to break. The main highlight is to put the PSU in the freezer for an hour or two. Frozen plastic very well then cracks along the seam, even strongly glued (due to inhomogeneity). Sometimes I even just tap the seam with a heavy hammer so as not to spoil the look. Naturally, the pause in the repair is delayed for the time of thawing and evaporation of moisture then, but the chldopot is less and the quality is better.

Second, people are right when they talk about ESR. A few years ago, life forced me to take up the repair of near-computer equipment just as hard. 99% of power supply units are already pulsed, their diagnostics using ESR sometimes turns into a routine, and not troubleshooting, hi! Here is a device that I have been using for a long time, I tried a bunch of everything and settled on this particular design. Run along the branch if desired. In general, in the dock at 1.01, everything is scheduled.

Thank you for your advice))) I will improve my skills))) Live and learn!

Good evening, comrades. I need your help! I am a happy owner of the samsung syncmaster 960bf monitor! The monitor holder is broken!

Epoxy "Second" to help you)))

Thanks! Do you think this will help?

Yes, if you degrease the surface of the plastic, sand it and reinforce it with metal, the epoxy will hold up well. I restored laptops this way.

Good morning Solder Master! I can send you a photo of my breakdown to understand what happened to me! Please drop me your email address!

Good afternoon. I need your help, I have a monitor 960, when the power is turned on, the power button on the monitor starts blinking, I noticed until the power supply unit warms up or you warm it up, the monitor does not turn on. What to do?

You need to fix the power supply. Disassemble and check capacitors and soldering. If it doesn't help, write.

Nice post. He himself was once fond of radio electronics. I have 5 stars and success in development!

Thank you Ivan. And good luck to you with your blog)))

Vyacheslav, there are two options - either the electrolytic capacitors are dry - replace them (start with a small 47 microfarad 50 V), or a microcrack has formed in the soldering - solder the board. The rest is unlikely.

Hello!
Today I replaced 4 capacitors (there seem to be only 4 of them).
The effect is "0".
It turns off anyway.
I went to the repair of laptops on the radio market. There, the cunning people directly said that the soldering of the condenders to one place. And they said they knew what was out of order there. But they flatly refused to tell me. Like: pay the money and we will repair it ourselves, and keep the condensers for yourself.
Can you advise on what forum to consult?

Over time, the laptop battery loses its original capacity, which affects the battery life of the device. If your laptop operates on a full charge for about an hour or stops turning on at all without a connected power adapter, do not rush to purchase a new battery, in some cases it is possible to restore the laptop battery yourself.

If your battery starts to drain too quickly, try calibrating it first. The most reliable way is to use a special utility, which is called differently depending on the manufacturer. For example, for Lenovo laptops it is Energy Management, for Aser it is Aser Care Center. The point is that it is necessary to start a mode through the utility, which first completely discharges the battery, and then fully charges it. During calibration, do not unplug the power adapter, cut off the power supply, or use a laptop. The process can take from 2 to 10 hours. In some cases, calibration can help restore the former autonomy of the device.

If the calibration does not give the desired results or, as described earlier, the laptop does not operate on battery power until the power adapter is connected, it is time to start repairing the battery.

• breadboard knife;
• multimeter;
• a soldering iron with a power not exceeding 40 W;
• several car bulbs with a power of 21 W;
• cyanoacrylate glue.

Since laptop batteries are made non-separable, you will have to use a breadboard knife or other sharp object to open its case. Find the seam on the battery and cut it carefully. Do this carefully so as not to damage the internal components.

Before proceeding with the further steps, be sure to determine the type of your battery, as this will affect the recovery process. If the laptop is new, then most likely you have a lithium-ion (Li-ion) battery, and if the laptop is older than 3-4 years, then you probably have a nickel metal hydride (NiMH) battery.

If the described method does not bring results, you will have to change all the batteries at once. Sanyo's 2,100 mAh NiMH batteries are perfect. When replacing, do not use a soldering iron to chain the batteries. Instead, make contact holders and solder the connecting wires to them.

These batteries are dangerous, so use extreme caution when repairing. Make sure the battery is completely discharged before starting.

1. determine the nominal battery voltage by counting the number of batteries and multiplying the resulting value by 3.7;
2. solder the bulbs to the extreme outputs of the series-connected elements;
3. check the voltage - if it corresponds to the nominal, then go to the fifth point (note, if the laptop does not work on battery power, the controller is most likely out of order);
4. if the voltage is less than the nominal, it is necessary first of all to unsolder the controller, and then all the elements from each other and check the voltage of each separately, while all elements with a voltage significantly less than 3.7 V should be replaced with new ones;
5. use a light bulb to discharge all batteries to 3.2 V;
6. then glue the battery case, insert it into the laptop and carry out the full charge process.

Another problem that occurs with lithium-ion and lithium-polymer batteries, if they have not been used for a long time, is the voltage drop to a level below the threshold at which the safety controller is triggered. In this case, the battery is not charged, and the voltage on its contacts is zero. To solve the problem, it is necessary to connect the laptop power supply to the serial chain of battery cells through a 5 W light bulb and charge the battery to a voltage of 3.4 V per cell.

The main advantage of a laptop over a stationary computer is the ability to take it with you [. ]

Attention! This article is for informational purposes only, in no case try to [. ]

Many PC users may sooner or later face a situation when, when connecting [. ]

A properly functioning rechargeable battery gives meaning to the existence of a laptop, since in its absence the device [. ]

A router is used to connect to the Internet several devices, a computer, laptop and others, via wired or wireless technology and create a local network between these devices. At the same time, the router implements a barrier between the local network created by it and the Internet. Basically, routers work using NAT - Network Address Translation. Sometimes providers provide routers with the connection, the router can be inside a DSL modem or cable, or purchased separately. But, like any electronic device, routers can fail and many malfunctions can be eliminated at home on their own. Let's consider some common malfunctions of routers and methods of their elimination, repair of a d link router.

Most often, the following reasons lead to router malfunctions:

1. large voltage surges in the network,
2. overheating of the router,
3. router software crashes (firmware crashes),
4. high-frequency interference of electromagnetic radiation during a thunderstorm (in this case, the wan port most often burns out if the provider does not install lightning protection on its cable),
5. human factor.

If the router malfunctions, it can lose data packets, work on the Internet and the local network is disrupted, the firmware gets lost, the router can turn off, all indicators blink.

Solving a malfunction related to the impossibility of entering the settings of the router at its network address 192.168.0.1

If, after typing in the address bar of the router's network address, the router settings page does not open, then to eliminate this malfunction, you should perform the following operations:

• First, check that you have set in the settings of the network card to automatically obtain for the IP address and DNS address (using a direct connection to the router).

• If the settings of the network card are correct, then you must use the Run command (press the key combination Win + R), then enter - cmd and press enter. Now you need to enter ipconfig on the command line.

In the displayed settings, you need to see what value is opposite the inscription - Default gateway. This address is used to enter the settings of the router. If the value of this address does not match the standard value, then the router may have been configured for a specific network with its own requirements. In this case, you need to reset this value to the factory settings. Sometimes this field may not contain an address value at all, and you also need to reset the router. To reset the router, you need to press and hold the Reset button on the router for a while. Usually five or ten seconds are enough. The button hole is narrow enough so you can use a ballpoint pen, needle, or paper clip to press it.

If resetting the router does not help, disconnecting the ISP cable from your router may help. Unplug the provider's cable from the router connector and configure the router without a cable connected. After that, you can reconnect the cable to the router.

Also check the firmware version installed in the router.Check the latest firmware version on the manufacturer's website and update it if necessary. You can also check the drivers of your network card on your computer and reinstall them if necessary.

To troubleshoot a problem with not saving the settings of the router or if it is impossible to restore the settings from a separate file, you can try to carry out these operations by opening another browser. This method can help with other router malfunctions.

There can be many reasons for such a malfunction, and they are all approximately equally common. Let's consider the main possible causes.

If the network of your router is not displayed on the laptop in the list of available networks, then you need to check that the wireless network module is turned on. This can be done by looking at the adapter settings in the Network Sharing Center on your laptop. The wireless connection must be turned on. In the off state, it will be grayed out and you will need to turn on the wireless connection. If you cannot turn it on, then you need to check if there is a Wi-Fi switch on your laptop and turn it on.

If, despite the fact that the wireless connection remains on, but shows the status - No connection, then you should check if the correct drivers are installed for the Wi-Fi adapter and, if necessary, install them. The drivers must be downloaded from the website of the manufacturer of your equipment. This avoids possible driver incompatibility issues.

In addition, you can try to go to the router menu and change the value for the settings there and change the b / g / n parameter to b / g. If this change helps, it means that the 802.11n standard is not supported. You can also see how the wireless network channel is specified in the same settings, and if it is set to Automatic, then select a channel from the list.

If you have frequent connection breaks during work, it is recommended to update the router's firmware. In many cases, this procedure will solve the problem.

Sometimes when working with some Internet providers to access local resources (torrent trackers, game servers), you need to configure static routes in the router settings. Such settings can be found on the forums of the provider that provides you with the Internet.

Surely, many have already come across the fact that the weakest point of many routers is their power supplies. They often break down due to large voltage drops in the power grid and the failure of individual elements as a result of long work.

Defective or low-quality elements, a circuit that is not designed for some margin, can also lead to breakdowns. Some typical faults of power supplies can be distinguished. In this article, we will consider repairing a power supply for a D-Link router. Power supplies such as JTA0302D-E and the like are used for Asus and D-Link routers, designed for an output voltage of 5V and a maximum current of 2-3 A. The appearance of such power supplies can be seen in the figure below.

If we consider the circuit and design of similar power supplies, then this is a diagram of conventional single-ended switching power supplies. In such circuits, a PWM controller is used for control, which controls the operation of a field-effect transistor, which is connected to its output. As a result, the voltage is reduced to the desired value and rectified, and it is supplied to the output. A schematic diagram of such a power supply can be seen in the figure below. In this diagram, depending on the model of the power supply, there may be some minor changes in the ratings of individual components. The power supply delivers a voltage of 5 volts. This voltage should not drop significantly under load (with the router turned on).

To repair the power supply, you may need to use a soldering iron, solder, multimeter, knife and electrical tape. To open the plastic case of the power supply, you need to cut the glued seam of the case. This operation can be done with a knife, but it is more convenient to use a small bur-machine for these purposes.

If you look at the power supply circuit in Fig. 2, you can see that a 2 ampere fuse, a choke, a thermistor and a rectifier bridge of four 1N4007 diodes are installed at the input. If there is a large voltage surge in the network, then all these elements can burn out. They can be easily checked with a multimeter by measuring their resistance. To smooth the rectified voltage at the output, after the diode bridge, a large capacitor is placed - C1 (22 or 33 μF). This capacitor should be 400V, no less. If he is out of order, then this can be determined by his appearance, he swells.

In addition, a positive voltage from the diode bridge is applied to a PWM microcircuit, in this case UC3843B. This microcircuit is used to control the opening and closing of the field-effect transistor P4NK60Z. Often the power circuit of this microcircuit contains a malfunction. In this circuit there is an electrolytic capacitor C6 and a zener diode ZD1, which is designed for a voltage of 20 volts. This capacitor must be of a certain capacity so that during operation the voltage supplying the microcircuit is always within the permissible operating limits. Therefore, the recommended capacitance of the capacitor is 100 μF. If the capacitor is dry, then the capacity will not be enough to start the microcircuit,

It is quite difficult to determine by external signs such an inoperative capacitor. The small size does not allow you to notice some bulge on its lid. You can measure the capacitance of a capacitor, but there is often a large drop in ESR with normal capacitance. To check the ESR, special measuring instruments are needed, this cannot be checked with an ordinary multimeter or tester.

In case of voltage drops, the zener diode ZD1 may fail. This can be seen from the darkened (charred) body of the zener diode.

In rare cases, the P4NK60Z field controller may fail. This transistor is supplied with a voltage of 13-15V. from the PWM output. The efficiency of the field-effect transistor can be checked with a multimeter (tester) switched to the diode test mode. On the drain-source channel, the voltage drop is 0.6-0.8 V.

If the voltage at the output of the power supply is 5 V, and when the load is connected, it drops to about 2 V., then most likely the electrolytic capacitors at the output of the power supply (C9 and C11) have dried up. To eliminate this malfunction, it is necessary to replace the dried electrolytic capacitors with working ones with the same characteristics.

In general, the main repair steps can be identified. If there is no voltage at the output of the power supply, then it is necessary to check for breakdown by measuring the resistance F1, TR, rectifier bridge. To provide some starting margin, it is advisable to use the capacitor C6 of 10 μF and designed for 50V, and not 47 μF and 25V. as usual in the diagram.

In cases where the output voltage drops, unstable operation of the power supply is observed, it is necessary first of all to replace the electrolytic capacitors C1, C9, C10, C11.

In addition, you can recommend several recommendations to improve the performance of the power supply. At the output of the power supply, a 220 Ohm 0.125w resistor is usually installed, filled with a special sealant. This resistor operates at its limit values ​​and therefore gets very hot. Heating causes the condenser C9 to dry out. It is advisable, instead of a 220 ohm resistor, to put a 300 ohm resistor and a power dissipation of 0.5 watts. If a capacitor C9 for 10v is installed in the circuit, then it is better to put the same one instead, but designed for 16v.

After repair, the body must be assembled. But you do not need to glue it, but fasten the two halves, for example, with a coupler, so that in the future, if repair is necessary, it can be easily disassembled again.

Being engaged in the repair of computer equipment, computers and laptops that have already been opened, made by other "would-be masters" or by a curious user often come to me for repair.The consequences of such repairs can be completely different, and if in one case it was simply taken apart, scratched the back of the head and collected (well, 5-6 screws remained), but at least they did not break it, but in another case they finally broke it down and, for example, where it was necessary to change the "northern" or "Yuzhnik" already needs to change the entire motherboard.

Below are some examples of self-repairs, as well as non-standard modifications made by "experienced" users.

1. So the broken wire of the laptop's power supply was repaired, and the person who performed the repair assures that the laptop has been working this way for a year and a half.

2. It is possible and so to repair the laptop power supply and the interchangeability of such power supplies, as you can see, at a height.

3. If the BGA chip is not soldered, then of course you can tear it off, then glue it on super-glue, the owner will not notice)

4. Common malfunction of computers swollen capacitors. The author of this know-how solved the problem simply, why look for new workable capacitors, spend money, it turns out that you can simply solder the slots from above and all the repairs are done)

5. And if there are no capacitors of the required size available, you can put others, well, and what if they do not fit in size, you can simply tape it with electrical tape, so the master of this repair apparently thought.

6. Here's another innovative way of attaching the laptop matrix. “Like a man,” as they say.

7. Below is a photo of the cooling upgrade, so to speak. More thermal paste and everything is OK. Just think of this.

8. Here is a way of cooling, it’s expensive to look at it)))

9. Modernization of the cooling system, the hobbyhorse of some masters. Look how thoughtful everything is, and the elongated legs of the laptop just look very stylish)

10. If the drive does not pull out, it can be pulled out by force. I just don’t know how to pull to bend the sled like that, not to mention the broken case.

11. And finally, soldering the BGA chip. even probably not BGA (Ball grid array), but WGA (wire grid array)

All of the above is performed by masters who do not even know what and how in a computer (except for the last photo, not every master solders this) and such solutions do not arise due to high qualifications. And if, despite all of the above, you still decide to fix the laptop yourself, then remember that eliminating the consequences of self-repair will always be more expensive than repairing the original malfunction.

Repair of Chinese car radios

Repair of Chinese car radios today is more and more interesting to the ordinary user. The question is why?
The answer is clear: almost the lion's share of today's car head units are made in China. Having become the owner of such a radio tape recorder (high-quality or low-quality, it does not matter), the user eventually finds himself face to face with a problem.
The equipment deteriorates, loses its sound, or, at best, it may be necessary to flash a Chinese car radio. In our article, we will consider the main malfunctions of Chinese car radios and try to explain all the nuances of repair, to give a practical understanding of this process.
Today everyone knows that a radio tape recorder is the most common electronic device among motorists. It is very rare to find a car that is not equipped with such a device.
And there is nothing surprising in this. Good music on the road will not hurt any driver, regardless of his preference.

Note. Videotapes and CD-players are the evolution of such devices these days. But despite this, almost the same details and elements remained inside. As a result, the devices are still called car radios and in case of repair, the process is almost the same.

So, before starting the repair process, you need to provide power to the device. As you know, car radios do not have a built-in power supply, like a music center, and you will have to provide it.

Note. All experts, as one, will declare that it is not recommended to use a battery as a power source in this case.

The most acceptable option would be a power supply unit, ideal for repairing Chinese car radios at home.Such a unit should be able to provide an output voltage of 12-13 V, and the load current be within 10 A.
On the other hand, the load current may be less, since it is not necessary for the car radio to work at its full capacity during repairs.

Alternatively, you can offer a PC power supply. Although the power supply can be made independently, then you will need to buy a powerful transformer.