Automatic transmission a241e DIY repair

In detail: a241e automatic transmission do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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Hello, tell me please - Toyota Corona ST191 92nd, 2.0 3S-fe engine, automatic transmission A241E, front-wheel drive.

Reverse gear problem.

About a year ago, there was a small, out of the blue, metallic noise at 1500-1600 rpm, which was only under load. Sounds like a ratchet noise. I did not pay attention to this.

Recently, the reverse gear stopped going. she kind of turns on but does not go. When you press the gas, it starts to go but twitches strongly. Rides forward as usual, all gears are shifted, kicks a little but does not slip, engine braking is present.

I also noticed that on the netralka it also drives forward a little. As if it does not turn off the forward gear.

He took off the sump and valve block, the oil was dark red, the entire sump and valve block were covered in a gray bloom with very small small particles that were incomprehensible, whether the plastic or the aluminum was rubbed, there were also a few larger particles on the magnets - less than half a millimeter, like dust. I laundered everything, collected it, filled it with fresh ATF - the box went much better, the kicks were gone.

The back one also went, but there were slight periodic twitching. That is, it is not.

Ask what to watch? What could have broken down?

1. “only under load. Sounds like a ratchet noise. " - such noise is emitted by a worn out planetary gearbox;

2. "In very small, incomprehensible particles, plastic roofing felts or rubbed aluminum" - One-way clutch (OWC) (F2) falls apart;

Video (click to play).

3. “I also noticed that it also drives forward a little on a netralka” - this is bad, the forward clutch (C1), which is also the forward clutch, begins to bite heavily;

4. Judging by the described malfunctions, the forward clutch C1 and the one-way clutch OWC F2 fail;

5. “What to watch? What could break? " - cm . higher, BUT! The car is old, repairs are not economically profitable, if only by yourself, to remove the automatic transmission, disassemble, etc. stock up on repair literature. In principle, the automatic transmission is very simple and there have never been any problems with the repair, the automatic transmission is "grateful".

all good day, help who can, I can not look at a dead horse! problem with the variator Toyota Corolla 55t. mileage on cold rushing is normal, in the heat the sensor of the box overheats and the sushi chef paddles until it cools down! changed the oil, it did not help. suggest that it has its own cooling system that needs to be picked. who is in the know for more details please help with this thorn in jo .. interferes! Respectfully yours Mishan.

When you changed the oil, what color was it? Particles of metal, shards, smelled burned?

,! Before asking a question, I want to say thank you very much) God bless you!

And the question is: I have already asked you about the Toyota Fielder 2001, U240E. When switching from 1 to 2, not always, but recently it has begun to appear more often - there is a jolt with a bump, and when I throttle sharply, and when smoothly, the rest of the switches are ideal, especially at high revs. You advised me to replace the solenoids, I drove to the local craftsmen. They say that if the solenoids were to blame, then the CHECK would surely light up. This is true? Or replace it all the same? Otherwise, there are no complaints about the box, because of this I don't want to change it or the car ...

Craftsmen repairing automatic transmissions?

1. "They say that if the solenoids were to blame, the CHECK would surely light up." - if the solenoid burned out, OD would light up or start blinking, but not as a "CHECK".

2. When the solenoid wedges, bites, even the scanner will not detect it;

3.The conversation is generally about a solenoid for linear pressure, and it is PWM (wide pulse modulation), i.e. makes a certain number of openings and closings in a certain period of time;

4. "Or is it still replaced?" - whatever you want, not very fatal for an automatic transmission, if it is pushed from 1 to 2 periodically. Moreover, according to the primer, they are required to change everything and immediately to new ones, which is expensive. Therefore, they try to replace the pressure solenoid, which starts to "glitch" in the first place, and the rest are checked for sticking and how they hold the pressure.

In 1985, the Japanese company Aisin introduced a new Automatic transmission A140, which is part of a series of four-speed automatic transmissions installed on Toyota cars. The transmission was intended for vehicles with engine displacement up to 2 liters. The gearbox was installed on Toyota Corolla, Celica, Rav 4 and Corolla.

The use of a special torque converter made it possible to install this modification of four-speed automatic transmissions on vehicles with an increased engine power rating. The gearbox has proven itself as unkillable and super reliable transmission. The first breakdowns are characteristic of the aging of the unit and they appear only on runs after 300,000 kilometers. One of the features of this gearbox modification is that there is no need to change the oil. Only when carrying out a major overhaul, the need for which arises with a mileage of more than 300,000 kilometers, is it recommended to change the oil. At the same time, the car owner must closely monitor the condition of the gaskets in the valve body, since if they are damaged, oil can actively leak through the leaky gaskets, which leads to oil starvation of the gearbox.

Of the breakdowns, one can single out only the wear of the clutches, which can begin at high mileage. To eliminate this breakdown, it is necessary to use special repair kits that allow you to completely restore the unit's performance. Also, when carrying out a major overhaul, it is necessary to change all gaskets, the oil filter and the oil itself. Any difficulty in performing repair of automatic transmission A140 and there is no modification. Therefore, you can easily carry out all the repair work yourself.

Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day

CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts

Well, here it is clear what the conversation is about.

# 1 Post George Mon Dec 09, 2013 10:53 pm

trying to reconstruct the course of events, only one option comes to mind:
The planetary gearbox jumped off the shaft and stood at an angle, the satellites gobbled up a part of the O-ring on the rod, and the ends of the sun gear splines with the rod itself. Like this

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Filters for A140 on eternal Camry from 1989 331010A are most often found in repair.

Filters for the A240-243L since 1990 (331010B).

Filters for A140 are available in different modifications 331010 for the intake opening - until 1989.

For modifications А245-247Е the valve body was changed and since 1993 the filter has changed 331010C - (on right).

The oil is used T-IV, approx. 7.3 liters for a full shift and 3 liters for a partial one.

Since 2003, the hydraulic plate has been further improved by adding an EPC linear solenoid (SLT) and a filter for A245E / A246E / 247E changed again 331010G (left).

Steel mesh filter. The new settings put much more stress on the torque converter and the oil can burn and become contaminated with glue from the lock-up clutch much faster.

The oils for each of the boxes were selected individually. If in 1993 the unpretentious D-II was used, then later, with the advent of slip blocking of the gas turbine clutch, they switched to ATF Toyota T-IV.

From time to time or due to wear of the torque converter lockup and the resulting vibrations, oil seals (pump, axle shafts, etc., cuffs) 340070 begin to leak. Together with them, the gear selector shaft oil seal 331072 is changed. If tightened with replacement of oil seals, you have to change the pump rotating sleeve 330034.

If you tighten up with this repair, then you have to change the entire pump - No. 331500 or its cover - No. 331510.

Axle oil seals are of two types: an outer diameter of 54 mm (since 1983) and 55 mm (since 1984),

There is a difference in the seals of the left semiaxis for A245 and A247 (left) 331076 .

All these oil seals are included in the Overol Kit and are individually taken by experienced craftsmen when the machine came with only one complaint: a leaking oil seal.

Image - Automatic transmission a241e DIY repair

Of the packages in this family of transmissions, the most loaded Direct and Forward clutch packages are burning typical for non-kill ones (the clutch numbers for A140 and A240 are different)

The brake band 331022 has a fairly large resource, the design of which has not changed since 1985.

Change due to old age or when the friction pad is impregnated with burnt oil.

Solenoids have the same great resource. Changing Solenoid Electric Linear Pressure Regulator SLT - # 331431 - Diagnostics requires special equipment.

Solenoids are changed quite rarely in old age cars as they age and the resource is depleted. Electrovalve solenoids 331425 and 331425 are checked by resistance test and pressure applied by the compressor.

Overhauls in services in most cases consist in repairing the torque converter, valve body, box bulkhead and changing consumables and burnt clutches.

The first to fail from the packages are: - Package clutches Forward / Direct HEG 83+ [40Tx1.7 × 126] 331108

paired with - Steel disc, Forward / Direct 83+ [8Tx1.8 × 105] 331128.

The statistics on these boxes are poor, partly due to the fact that the boxes of this family are distinguished by enviable health and unpretentiousness and rarely come for overhaul, and partly due to the fact that overhaul of an old Toyota machine in the service is a relatively expensive pleasure. Many owners forget about the torque converter and kill this unique box to the end, bringing matters to the point of replacing it with an easily accessible control box.

You can check the cost and availability of items for overhaul of this automatic transmission family in the online store by clicking the number on an orange background to search for the details.

A240 series of 4-speed automatic transmission (A240 - A246E, A247E... ) has been successfully working since 1985 on the legendary in its reliability Corolla, capturing the adjacent classes - Corona, RAV4 and Celica with a volume of up to 2 liters. Without significant modifications to the indestructible Corolla, the RAV4 is still equipped with the indestructible A246.

This family also includes a higher torque A140-th series of automatic transmission.A140E was installed from 1983 to 2004 on more powerful Camry (Celica. below) from 2L Japanese and American assembly.

At the same time, a slightly more "complex" and expensive box was released - A540, for even more powerful Camry and Lexus engines.

Predecessors, 3-stage A130, 131, 132L installed from 1983 to 2001 - on Corolla and Tersely up to 1.8L.

The first modifications A240L, A241E, A243L, A244 with two solenoids in a simple valve body began to be installed in 1985.

This design was complicated in 1993 when new modifications came to replace A245 - A246 - 247 with modern valve body and solenoids. In addition to the valve body, the A245-247 received another filter (331010C) and some clutches with steel discs. Previous machines of the A240-244 series continued to be widely installed on Corollas around the world until 2008. The difference between related models - in different versions of clutches for the most loaded Direct and Forward packages, the hydraulic plate was constantly improving due to problems with shifting 4-3, the design of the planetary gear was changing, etc.

After running in 2004, the solenoid-electric regulator was slightly changed - 331431DE.

Despite its simplicity and low price, this family of 4-speed automatic transmissions is inferior in popularity to its Aisin's brother from the “U” series - U140 - U240... Competitors of this box can be considered non-German ZF4HP16 - 4HP18, which rather compete with U240, and 4 Jatko mortars: RE4F03 - RE4F04.

ATF oil up to 95 years old - mineral, Dexron-III class. From 1995, Toyota gradually switched to the T-IV type, which was used until 2003-2005. Since 2005-2006, WS synthetics have been poured into Aisin boxes, which works better at low temperatures with solenoids and slipping clutches. For a complete oil change in all boxes of this series produced since 2003, it is recommended to use oil of the WS type. If you have a partial oil change, it is better to check the recommended oil for your car.

Repair kits for gaskets and seals A245 + No. 331002 differ from previous modifications A240-244.

Modifications A240 from 1988 to 2003 had a similar configuration Whale overwolf - (331002A), and after 2003, the designers decided on deunification.

Conventional boxes for overhaul are quite old and come with a clutch blocking clutch worn out to glue, with which the remaining clutches are impregnated. Therefore, Aisin engineers recommend in such cases to change the entire set of friction discs (# 331003).

All that is needed for trouble-free operation is to change the oil on time and (in 8-10 years) filter.

It is also recommended to replace the filter if the box has been operated for a long time with burnt oil or with a bald clutch of the torque converter.

Filters for A140 on eternal Camry from 1989 331010A are most often found in repair.

Filters for the A240-243L since 1990 (331010B).

Filters for A140 are available in different modifications 331010 for the intake opening - until 1989.

For modifications А245-247Е the valve body was changed and since 1993 the filter has changed 331010C- (on right).

The oil is used T-IV, approx. 7.3 liters for a full shift and 3 liters for a partial one.

Since 2003, the hydraulic plate has been further improved by adding an EPC linear solenoid (SLT) and a filter for A245E / A246E / 247E changed again 331010G (left).

Steel mesh filter. Out of habit, the craftsmen do not change the filter, but the old recommendation remains to change the closed filter with every second oil change, which means after 140-160 tkm. The new settings put more stress on the converter and the oil can become contaminated much faster.

The oils for each of the boxes were selected individually. If in 93 the unpretentious D-II was used, then later, with the advent of slip blocking of the gas turbine clutch, they switched to ATF Toyota T-IV.

From time to time or due to wear of the torque converter, oil seals (pump, axle shafts, etc., cuffs) begin to leak 340070. Together with them, the gear selector shaft oil seal 331072 is changed.

If you tighten up with this repair, then you have to change the entire pump - No. 331500 or its cover - No. 331510.

Axle oil seals are of two types: an outer diameter of 54 mm (since 1983) and 55 mm (since 1984),

There is a difference in the seals of the left axle shaft for A245 and A247 331076.

All these oil seals are included in the Overol Kit and are individually taken by experienced craftsmen when the machine came with only one complaint: a leaking oil seal. Which usually means that the torque converter lining is eaten, it slips, turns and overheats the housing and shaft, and with longer service life, it kills the bushings, pump and axles.

Of the packages in this family of transmissions, the most loaded Direct and Forward clutch packages are burning typical for non-kill ones (the clutch numbers for A140 and A240 are different)

The brake band 331022 has a fairly large resource, the design of which has not changed since 1985.

Change due to old age or when the friction pad is impregnated with burnt oil.

Solenoids have the same great resource. Changing Solenoid Electric Linear Pressure Regulator SLT - # 331431 - Diagnostics requires special equipment.

Overhauls in services in most cases consist in repairing the torque converter, valve body, box bulkhead and changing consumables and burnt clutches.

The first to fail from the packages are: - Package clutches Forward / Direct HEG 83+ [40Tx1.7 × 126] 331108

paired with - Steel disc, Forward / Direct 83+ [8Tx1.8 × 105] 331128.

The A240 series of four-speed automatic transmissions from the Aisin concern has been successfully operated since 1985. The family's A140 powertrain has been designed for more engine torque and has been incorporated into more powerful vehicles.

A brief history of automatic transmission

The A140 transmission and its modification A140E were aggregated with 2 and 3 liter engines in Toyota Camry, Celica GT, Solara 1998-2002.

The A240 family was introduced into Toyota Avensis, Caldina, Carib, Carina, Corolla, Corona, Soluna, Voxy, Vish with engines up to 2 liters from 1985 to 2007.

Automatic transmission A247 was installed on Toyota Rav 4 in 1998-1999.

A247E is a new modern modification of this generation, produced since 2004. Has reinforced iron, updated hydraulic block with linear pressure solenoid, updated computer settings.

Typical breakdowns and their repair

All that is required for the normal functioning of this automatic transmission family is to timely replace the transmission fluid and filter. The oil filter must also be replaced if the transmission has been operating for a long time with burnt oil or a worn torque converter friction lining.

In an aged torque converter, dirt can accumulate on the inner surfaces of the unit, which can cause imbalance in the turbines and the appearance of vibrations. Because of this, the bushings most often suffer, the pump seals are leaking. If repairs are not made on time, the entire oil pump may fail.

Dirt and wear of the hydraulic plate, aging of gaskets, rubber seals and filters are not avoided by automatic transmissions "aged". The reason is time and transmission fluid clogged with worn clutches and glue particles.

Often in the A140 / A240 / A247 transmission family, overloaded clutch packs are burned out above normal. A brake band usually has a long service life and changes due to the end of the specified period of use or when it is completely saturated with oil.

The transmission solenoids have a long service life. They rarely change, having served their time and fully developed their resource.

This generation of automatic transmissions gets to the maintenance services with breakdowns in the torque converter, hydraulic block, replacement of consumables and exhausted solenoids.

The Japanese transmission is reliable and unpretentious. She is not a frequent visitor to service centers for automatic transmission repairs. These automatic transmissions are no longer produced, and those that remain on vehicles are already too old. It is easier for motorists to replace an out-of-date automatic transmission A140 / A240 / A247 with a used one than to make expensive overhauls of an age-old Toyota automatic transmission.

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Toyota automatic transmission repair is a very time-consuming and complicated process. This is usually done by experienced people in a service station or service center. However, after reading the article, it will become easier for you to repair an automatic transmission with your own hands.

The first place to start is to remove all sensors and attachments. After that, we begin to disassemble the automatic transmission box, that is, we remove two bolts for seventeen, four bolts for fourteen and seven pump bolts for twelve. Next in line is the removal of the pallet. Pay attention directly to the filter, it is usually dirty.

The filter is fixed with 3 screws. Having diagnosed the filter, you can tell a lot about the causes of the malfunction of the automatic transmission. After you have removed the filter, brains or hydraulic logic opens up in front of us, in which the blocking valve, pressure valve, three switching valves are located.

Removing the hydraulic logic. To do this, we disconnect the electric solenoid chips and ten bolts on the head. We detach them and remove the brains. After removing the bolts, slowly separate the plate. Please note that you need to immediately remove the drain valve from the fluid coupling and the accumulator.

Once again, we check so that nothing falls and nothing is lost, that is, we check for looseness of some parts by hand. Then we remove the pump by screwing in two bolts on the sides, the bolts, by the way, come from the starter.

We bring the bolts all the way and tighten them with the head, you do not need to use force, as it can be damaged. After doing these manipulations from the side, we loosen the two bolts by twelve that hold the pan. Then we take it out and immediately look for faults. Attention! Turn the saucepan over carefully, as small parts may fall out of it.

DIY Toyota automatic transmission repair must be very neat, so we arrange all the parts of the automatic transmission in order so that during assembly we do not get confused about what and where to attach. Then we take out the fourth speed package, which increases the row.

Next, we inspect the bearing washers, but be extremely careful with them, because they may fall, and you, from the abundance of parts in the automatic transmission, will not be able to guess that it was there.We disconnect the stopper, which can cause some difficulties, you can resort to using a screwdriver, but everything should be done very carefully so as not to damage anything. Most often, when diagnosing automatic transmission, bushing wear is detected, due to which the shafts begin to walk.

Here you can also see what turned the bearings, that is, they turn them in the inner race. All defective parts should not only be found but also replaced.

Any repair with your own hands is quite profitable financially, since you do not need to give your hard-earned money to specialists. But, if you are not very confident in your abilities, contact the service station, where they will help you save some time and wasted nerves. However, remember that any work done with your own hands is of higher quality, since you are unlikely to save money on your car.

An automatic transmission is an expensive component. There is no point in delaying the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are expensive. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for the details. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that repairing automatic transmissions with their own hands is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of the workshop masters cannot be called modest, and the professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists can decide to fix the problem on their own.

Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes according to the following scheme:

diagnostics,
dismantling the box,
disassembly of the box,
complete set with spare parts,
assembly (installation),
installation on a car,
diagnostics after repair.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, a certain amount of time to work with, patience and perseverance.

All automatic transmissions are arranged the same, but there are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their renovation has some differences.

It is important to notice transmission problems at the earliest possible stage. Then, with the correct diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often these are extraneous sounds when changing gears or during robotic transmission. It can be crunching, clicks. An unpleasant smell also speaks of problems. It can appear during long-term or short-term operation of the box. It is worse if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.

Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Red spots will indicate an oil leak from the transmission. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No burning smells or muddy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.

Automatic transmission malfunctions often arise due to improper operation. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or overheating. For this reason, the gears wear out, the machine can jerk when changing gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks when driving indicate overheating of the oil and the appearance of problems in the valve body.

Aggressive driving with hard acceleration and braking will erase details. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and has a bad effect on its general condition.

All faults are divided into two subgroups. They can occur in

electronic control system,
mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.

If a malfunction occurs, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it goes into third speed and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the display.

If problems have arisen with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.

In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to consult a specialist. Determine what the problem is at the service station, and take care of the repair yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time on diagnostics. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.

General scheme of diagnostic procedures:

check the oil,
check the operation of the engine at idle speed, the connection points of the wiring and cables,
determine the error codes of the operation of the control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
check the box on a car without movement,
check the automatic transmission in motion,
check the pressure inside the control system.

If the cause of the malfunctions is electronics problems, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the transmission ratio and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:

input sensors,
electronic control unit,
executive devices of the control system,
violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring connections.

The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If some parameters are out of order, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decrypt such numbers using a special scanner.

These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conventionally divided into three subgroups:

Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
Defective transformer. This includes:
- breaks in the splines of the wires,
- mechanical destruction of the blades,
- overrunning clutch,
- wear of the main blocking clutch,
- depressurization of the piston oil seal.
- Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.

If the diagnostics were successful and you cannot do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of the automatic transmission repair.

You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to perform this procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It will not be superfluous to invite several physically strong guys to help you move the removed box. Its weight is beyond the strength of even a very strong person. Further action plan:

disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
remove and move the gearbox;
assess the scale of the breakdown and start repairing.

Before removing the gearbox, the oil does not need to be drained from it. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the place where the oil supply pipes are attached when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.

All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines on the input shaft of the diaphragm.

It is better to do automatic transmission repair with your own hands, having it at hand proprietary manual and a printed diagram of the gearbox. First you need to inspect all the systems that serve the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we proceed to the repair. For this:

We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn out parts.
Remove the inhibitor block and sump. We clean out the dirt inside. It looks like metal magnetic shavings.
We remove the wiring of the ring from the plug and push them inside the plug.
Remove the valve body, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the valve body.
We check the clutches, gears and planetary gears for wear. We will replace it if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its term. We use the manual so as not to swap parts.
We take out the valves and springs. We wash the valves. Their sticking can be the reason for incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. Replace the accumulator springs if they are broken.
Putting everything back into place. It is important not to confuse anything!
We replace rings and friction bolts.
We check the gear shift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.

Assembly takes place upside-down.

There are some points that it is advisable to take into account when repairing. Often a transmission problem is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special stopper does not allow you to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. Assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten here.

If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. During these works, the following recommendations should be adhered to:

When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the diaphragm is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of transmission oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and put on the input shaft. You need to achieve a secure connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. The crankcases must abut completely.
Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps along the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correctness of the connections is checked.
At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.

Beginning the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If at least one is missing, the automatic transmission cannot be attached.

Automatic transmission repair and diagnostics do it yourself - not an easy, but feasible task. Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice car enthusiasts believe that repairing it at home is impossible. This is not true. But before deciding to carry out such important work at home, you need to weigh all your possibilities. Then you will not be in for unpleasant surprises during the renovation.

Video (click to play).