In detail: automatic transmission ar 25 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Automatic four-speed transmission 4L30E was developed for use on rear-wheel drive versions of the Opel Omega and a number of cars of the American concern General Motors, which were intended for the North American market. A relatively easy-to-repair transmission was popular with various car manufacturers and was able to survive on the assembly line for more than a decade.
This transmission modification has proven to be extremely reliable and easy to use. The simplicity of the design made it possible to easily carry out repair work, and the gearbox itself did not require any maintenance. There was no need to change the oil, and with the correct operation of the gearbox, the transmission could serve without repairs for 300,000 kilometers or more. Subsequently, this automatic transmission was successfully used with full and rear-wheel drive cars of the BMW, Isuzu and Honda brands. The disadvantages of this modification of gearboxes can be attributed to its rather bulky dimensions, which, if necessary, to carry out repair work, it forced labor-intensive dismantling of the unit.
Automatic transmission 4L30E has established itself as a fairly reliable transmission. However, it must be said that the hydraulic drive and the torque converter had a limited resource. As a rule, after 200,000 kilometers of run, irreversible changes were noted, which forced expensive major repairs. The problem area was the pump bushing, which often failed.
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Video (click to play). |
You can fill in Dexron VI, for example Mobil ATF D / A (For GM and Ford). How to change the oil in the machine read in THIS article
In this report, I do not pursue the goal of teaching how to sort out this type of automatic transmission, therefore, I do not delve into the technological subtleties, but only want to show that with certain knowledge and skills, this unit can be really restored on its own.
A little background:
A week ago, a terrible thing happened - transmissions began to turn off. As a matter of fact, the question arose about the bulkhead of the box or its replacement. Since a used box costs money (and it’s not a fact that it will work for a long time), automatic transmission repair is also not cheap, and there was a faulty donor in the person of a native automatic transmission from my car with a mileage of 122,000 km., It was decided to bulkhead donor on their own, with the subsequent castling of these units.
Now let's move on to the process:
The first thing that was done was loading the donor into the trunk and sending it to the sink in order to prevent dirt from getting into the box elements during the bulkhead. After washing, the automatic transmission migrated to the “surgical” table. [attachmentid = 66398]
Further point by point:
1. Disconnecting the torque converter [attachmentid = 66399]
2. Drain the oil through the filler hole
3. Removing the pallets (there was working dust on the magnet of the pallet, no shavings and foreign elements were found) [attachmentid = 66400] [attachmentid = 66401] [attachmentid = 66402]
4. Removing the solenoids and checking for operability (connecting to the battery). It is worth mentioning that even the solenoid called by Tekom can be mechanically faulty.
During this operation, 2 faulty solenoids were identified. [attachmentid = 66403] [attachmentid = 66404] [attachmentid = 66433]
Since the exact defect of the box was not known, it was decided to completely troubleshoot the automatic transmission with its almost complete analysis. It is worth noting that even if the 1st malfunction is found, relying on the fact that the rest is working is NOT WORTH.
After a complete disassembly of the automatic transmission, it was found that in this automatic transmission the mechanical part is completely serviceable, as evidenced by the absence of wear of the clutches, the absence of breakdowns or burnout of the rubber seals of the pistons, the absence of mechanical damage to the planar gears, the permissible backlash of the planetary gears, the correct operation of the overrunning clutches, the integrity of the brake ribbons.
The hydraulic part, excluding 2 solenoids, revealed at the initial stage of disassembly, is completely serviceable (pressure is normal), as evidenced by the clutches, the color of the package housings, the integrity of the axial seals and liners are not changed.
Next, the automatic transmission is assembled in the reverse order with the replacement of all gaskets [attachmentid = 66431], oil seals, O-rings [attachmentid = 66432], inserts, if necessary, clutches and steel rings.
After assembly, we install it on the car.
The result of the work done: the automatic transmission is working properly, when the gears are switched on, jerks, jerks, slippages are not observed, shifting occurs smoothly, without delays.
Costs (rub.):
1. A set of gaskets without clutches - 2350 [attachmentid = 66590] [attachmentid = 66591]
2. 2 solenoids - 2 x 1300 [attachmentid = 66593]
3. Oil filter - 450 [attachmentid = 66592]
4. GM oil - about 1700 (7 liters)
5. Replacement of automatic transmission in "Darmina" with a 10% discount on a club card - 4000
6. Automatic transmission wash - 250
Total: 11350
The removed buggy box will be further disassembled and restored.
ZY: I express my gratitude to my friend Pavel (81blok) for help in the bulkhead, Dima (Ambra) for the automatic transmission scheme provided.
Good day to all!
Can anyone have experience with this problem:
Today I made a U-turn ("in 2 steps") turned on Drive, drove as close as possible to the curb, then turned on R and heard some kind of ringing, the box stopped responding to the movement of the selector, as if N neutral was constantly turned on. The car starts up without problems, the BC does not write errors. Shifting the selector became very easy with the car running and even easier with the ignition off. During a visual inspection in the garage, nothing was noticed that could be characterized as a selector break. It seems to me that the problem is inside.
If there is a diagram of the box, I will be grateful (on the weekend I am going to remove the pallet and see)
If there is a competent consideration I will be grateful in twins.
with uv i
Good day to all!
Can anyone have experience with this problem:
Today I made a U-turn ("in 2 steps") turned on Drive, drove as close as possible to the curb, then turned on R and heard some kind of ringing, the box stopped responding to the movement of the selector, as if N neutral was constantly turned on. The car starts up without problems, the BC does not write errors. Shifting the selector became very easy with the car running and even easier with the ignition off. During a visual inspection in the garage, nothing was noticed that could be characterized as a break in the selector. It seems to me that the problem is inside.
If there is a diagram of the box, I will be grateful (on the weekend I am going to remove the pallet and see)
If there is a competent consideration I will be grateful in twins.
with uv i
And the adjusting bolt on the outside rod that did not burst? Maybe craving and "plays" back and forth now?
And the adjusting bolt on the outside rod that did not burst? Maybe craving and "plays" back and forth now?
Using the key 17 from the pit, I changed gears (but somehow it was easy to switch.)
Using the key 17 from the pit, I changed gears (but somehow it was easy to switch.)
He took off the pallet. The selector moves the rod in the box, visually everything is in place .. I drove it to Chernihiv for diagnostics. They fiddled for a long time, offered to disassemble, I refused after that made a call to Kiev, from there I heard that with a 90% probability that the oil pump died. The price for the pump and replacement was not announced, but they said that it would be very expensive .. It's easier to find another used box.
Victor, tell me from 2.5 motors the box becomes?
What are the tips for buying a boo box?
The average price of a used automatic transmission?
Before starting, I would take apart the box. It's too early to say. At the same time, look at the state of the rest. And the prices are different, for example I bought a box thanks to my friend for 500 UAH. this year, but this is an exception. And so 500 ye. in Lvov there are a lot of them. If I can give you the coordinates.
In Kiev for 400 USD, but the question is how much it leaves .. Thanks for the consultation
NeoMax there is literature on the machine, its filling and repair is true in English, if interested, I can reset it.
Maybe someone will advise automatic transmission repairmen (sane in terms of price and quality)?
Black-and-white list looked. really saw nothing.
He took off the pallet. The selector moves the rod in the box, visually everything is in place .. I drove it to Chernihiv for diagnostics. They fiddled for a long time, offered to disassemble, I refused after that made a call to Kiev, from there I heard that with a 90% probability that the oil pump died. The price for the pump and replacement was not announced, but they said that it would be very expensive .. It's easier to find another used box.
Victor, tell me from 2.5 motors the box becomes?
What are the tips for buying a boo box?
The average price of a used automatic transmission?
The spring with the roller is intact. which fix the selector shaft, you can see it in the photo
the entire load of the selector is received by pressing this roller against the toothed crescent, there is no longer any load, if the shaft moves easily, then this spring has burst
Modified: SPIK., 22 Jul 2009 - 21:11
vladd 22 July 2009
vladd 22 July 2009The spring with the roller is intact. which fix the selector shaft, you can see it in the photo
the entire load of the selector is received by pressing this roller against the toothed crescent, there is no longer any load, if the shaft moves easily, then this spring has burst
Whole
Max, how's your box going?
In "selling" posted a machine for 400
showtopic = 74118
It is expensive, the price for a vending machine is not more than UAH 2000
Max, how's your box going?
In "selling" posted a machine for 400
showtopic = 74118
Dumb like that and the torque converter is different.
It is expensive, the price for a vending machine is not more than UAH 2000
A box with a station wagon and even with a towbar, it can only be taken under the brute force.
I am looking for a fresher box, not from a diesel engine and without a tow bar.
I am looking for a fresher box, not from a diesel engine and without a tow bar.
There it seems they are still selling a motor with automatic transmission, a fresh announcement. It may be possible to hook only the automatic transmission.
Here
showtopic = 72881
really too 400
NeoMax Well, what literature did you get from me? Maybe it makes sense to translate it and figure out the breakdown yourself?
throw it on my soap if it doesn't make it difficult
NeoMax Well, what literature did you get from me? Maybe it makes sense to translate it and figure out the breakdown yourself?
Haven't got there yet. Password stuck .. Remind PLZ
There it seems they are still selling a motor with automatic transmission, a fresh announcement. It may be possible to hook only the automatic transmission.
Here
showtopic = 72881
really too 400
Towbar =)) Yes, and in Kiev, they offer 300u.e for disassembly without a selector and a week to “like it”, if not, then another .. and when a person sells his for 400 it does not matter what condition it is in, and after a week “the joint will come out ”, Then it will be difficult for this person to part with the money and get his box back ..
My IMHO
Towbar =)) Yes, and in Kiev, they offer 300u.e for disassembly without a selector and a week to “like it”, if not, then another .. and when a person sells his for 400 it does not matter what condition it is in, and after a week “the joint will come out ”, Then it will be difficult for this person to part with the money and get his box back ..
My IMHO
Call the number that I gave 🙂 And the price is regulated and it will be easy to settle in if something happens.
4-speed automatic transmission 4L30E is a continuation of the simple and reliable 3-speed transmission 3L30Eoperating since 1969.
These transmissions were produced in the USA and in Europe (Strasbourg) under the name AR25, for the rear-wheel drive European Opel Omega and our rare AR35 for a 3-liter boat. (automatic transmission application list 4L30E at the bottom ).
The marking is applied to the automatic transmission plate and is related to the French system: AF - automatiс forward, and AR - automatic rear.
4L30E It has been installed since 1990 on rear- and all-wheel drive BMWs of all series with engines up to 3 liters, but was much more widely used on GM, Opel Omega, Isuzu cars and even on Honda Passport, where it has proven itself from the best side.
Automatic machines manufactured more than 20 years ago still come to the overhaul every month.
Pick up repair kits - press the button on the left.
Typical overhaul 4L30
Changes: disposable Filter - No. 203010. A metal-plastic filter with a double felt membrane, for older cars it is recommended to be replaced with each oil change in order to save the life of the pump and bushings.
There are two different modifications applied to this box. filters with depending on the pallet: One - black for BMW 203010A ( on right),
and the other is the most popular in repair yellow filter with a 13mm intake for GM / Opel / Isuzu / Honda 203010B ( left )
- Repair kit for gaskets and seals (No. 203002), most often ATOK assemblies are chosen, twice less often - Presision and Transtek.
- A set of clutches - 203003, clutch kits differ by year of manufacture - until the 97th and after 1998, when the 3-d Clutch package was strengthened.
Rarely order a set of steel discs - No. 203004
The pump bushing, washer washers, brake band must be changed, the rest - according to the results of diagnostics after disassembly.
When the car came for repair on time, the craftsmen limited themselves to repairing the narrowest place - replacing the Pump bushings # 203034, After long runs with a belated arrival in the overhaul, the bushings are replaced with a complete set (203030)
In automatic transmission 4L30E The torque converter, valve body and solenoids have a relatively limited resource, the operation of which is gradually and imperceptibly deteriorating with wear of the gas turbine engine blocking clutch and the build-up of carbon deposits in the narrowest places, which causes oil pressure to drop and oil starvation occurs, which adversely affects bushings , which, nevertheless, have quite a decent resource.
One of the frequent replacements is the brake band - No. 203026.
From "iron" check the condition of the Drum Low (203557), which is worn out by an unevenly worn brake band.
Operation with a worn pump sleeve and dirty oil will damage the oil pump itself. Worn gears are replaced - No. 203530.
It manifests itself in leaks from under the pump oil seal -No. 203070.
Leakage is usually caused by vibration from wear.
Consumables are plastic washers bearings - 203200.
Change with every major overhaul.
The valve body after 200 tkm requires routine disassembly, repair and cleaning from carbon deposits. To drive the brake band, a linear pressure solenoid is introduced into the valve body design, which is able to regulate the pressure of the band on the drum using PWM (PWM - wide pulse modulation, more details).
From an electrician, a typical problem of an age machine can be considered solenoidsthat have exhausted their resource. The replacement is often found - Line pressure solenoid No. 203435.
- Shift solenoids 203421 and 203422. (Checking with an ohmmeter according to manuals and purging)
- brake band control solenoid - No. 203418.
Also order - speed sensor, solenoid wiring 203446, Connector 203444.
Less commonly asked is the torque converter lock-up solenoid No. 203425
Of iron, the Planetary Row (No. 203583) found in repair can be noted. Which changes most often to the congested age Isuzu.
A fairly reliable, well-adjusted box with a large resource for iron, which, after a simple overhaul, can serve for several more years with proper oil control.
Suffering 04 May 2011
Suffering 04 May 2011 Suffering 05 May 2011
Suffering, take, for example, an electrical circuit from a car, and specifically this piece:
[attachment = 15285: ElAKPP.jpg]
on it:
U10.1 - torque converter lock-up solenoid
U10.2 - solenoid pressure regulator
U13.1 - switching solenoid "2-3"
U13.2 - switching solenoid "1-2,3-4"
U13.3 - brake band control solenoid
P48 - speed sensor
Well, starting, for example, from the automatic transmission control unit, you can already start ringing out the disturbing circuits passing through the solenoids. At work, there are no winding resistance values at hand, but roughly I can say that they should be approximately from 10 ohms to 20 ohms. Tester in hand and go!
Salt pallets are accessible from below when the pallets are removed: small for U10, large for U13. It is not necessary to remove and disassemble the box.
According to TPS: since the diagnostician says, then it is necessary to change.
Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day
CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts
For those who have problems with the automatic transmission (rides, but bad).
# 1 Post aleksa 07-03-09 11:05 pm
# 2 Post aleksa Wed Jul 08, 2009 3:54 pm
# 3 Post aleksa Wed Jul 08, 2009 4:23 pm
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AGGREGATKA is a federal network of technical centers, the main specialization of which is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including robotic transmissions with double clutch, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions
AGGREGATKA is a federal network of technical centers, the main specialization of which is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including robotic transmissions with double clutch, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions
An automatic transmission is an expensive component. There is no point in delaying the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are expensive. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for the details. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that repairing automatic transmissions with their own hands is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of the workshop masters cannot be called modest, and the professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists can decide to fix the problem on their own.
Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes according to the following scheme:
- diagnostics,
- dismantling the box,
- disassembly of the box,
- complete set with spare parts,
- assembly (installation),
- installation on a car,
- diagnostics after repair.
To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, time to work, patience, and perseverance.
All automatic transmissions are arranged the same, but there are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their renovation has some differences.
It is important to notice transmission problems at the earliest possible stage. Then, with the correct diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often these are extraneous sounds when changing gears or during robotic transmission. It can be crunching, clicks. An unpleasant smell also speaks of problems. It can appear during long-term or short-term operation of the box. It is worse if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.
Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Red spots will indicate an oil leak from the transmission. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No burning smells or muddy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.
Automatic transmission malfunctions often arise due to improper operation. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or overheating. For this reason, the gears wear out, the machine can jerk when changing gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks while driving indicate overheating of the oil and the appearance of problems in the valve body.
Aggressive driving with hard acceleration and braking will erase details. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and has a bad effect on its general condition.
All faults are divided into two subgroups. They can occur in
- electronic control system,
- mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.
If a malfunction occurs, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it goes into third speed and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the display.
If problems have arisen with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.
In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to consult a specialist. Determine what the problem is at the service station, and take care of the repair yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time on diagnostics. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.
General scheme of diagnostic procedures:
- check the oil,
- check the operation of the engine at idle speed, the connection points of the wiring and cables,
- determine the error codes of the operation of the control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
- check the box on a car without movement,
- check the automatic transmission in motion,
- check the pressure inside the control system.
If the cause of the malfunctions is electronics problems, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the transmission ratio and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:
- input sensors,
- electronic control unit,
- executive devices of the control system,
- violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring connections.
The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If some parameters are out of order, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decrypt such numbers using a special scanner.
These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conventionally divided into three subgroups:
- Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
- Defective transformer. This includes:
- breaks in the splines of the wires,
- mechanical destruction of the blades,
- overrunning clutch,
- wear of the main blocking clutch,
- depressurization of the piston oil seal.
- Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.
If the diagnostics were successful and you cannot do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of the automatic transmission repair.
You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to perform this procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It will not be superfluous to invite several physically strong guys to help you move the removed box. Its weight is beyond the strength of even a very strong person. Further action plan:
- disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
- unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
- remove and move the gearbox;
- assess the scale of the breakdown and start repairing.
Before removing the gearbox, the oil does not need to be drained from it. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the place where the oil supply pipes are attached when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.
All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines on the input shaft of the diaphragm.
It is better to do automatic transmission repair with your own hands, having it at hand proprietary manual and a printed diagram of the gearbox. First you need to inspect all the systems that serve the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we proceed to the repair. For this:
- We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
- We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn out parts.
- Remove the inhibitor block and sump. We clean out the dirt inside. It looks like metal magnetic shavings.
- We remove the wiring of the ring from the plug and push them inside the plug.
- Remove the valve body, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the valve body.
- We check the clutches, gears and planetary gears for wear. We will replace it if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
- We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its term. We use the manual so as not to swap parts.
- We take out the valves and springs. We wash the valves. Their sticking can be the reason for incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. Replace the accumulator springs if they are broken.
- Putting everything back into place. It is important not to confuse anything!
- We replace rings and friction bolts.
- We check the gear shift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.
Assembly takes place upside-down.
There are some points that it is advisable to take into account when repairing. Often a transmission problem is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special stopper does not allow you to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. Assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten here.
If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. During these works, the following recommendations should be adhered to:
- When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the diaphragm is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
- The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of transmission oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and put on the input shaft. You need to achieve a secure connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. The crankcases must abut completely.
- Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps along the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correctness of the connections is checked.
- At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.
Beginning the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If at least one is missing, the automatic transmission cannot be attached.
Automatic transmission repair and diagnostics do it yourself - not an easy but feasible task. Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice motorists believe that repairing it at home is impossible. This is not true. But before deciding to carry out such important work at home, you need to weigh all your possibilities. Then you will not be in for unpleasant surprises during the renovation.
Attention! Car service network of favorable prices. Camber check is FREE! No queues! Repair on the same day!
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Take a newcomer to Drom.ru))).
Took up the repair of the automatic transmission FN4A-EL (4F27E) from a friend on Premasi. I will post the report along the way here:.
Tips and tricks from experts are welcome 🙂
as far as I understand - the man-handles are labor. we do need e. join in! Respect and respect. You grabbed repairs, not even with our masya, but I look at your experience even from other people's cars more than we do. We are very glad to welcome you in our ranks.
As far as I understand, if the symptoms are no 4 gears, then slowly we get sick to L in boxing.
We order a lid and 4 elastic bands (sort of like) and for a start we only change the lid.
Do I understand correctly that the cover can be removed without lowering the engine on the jack? On the chapel (there at the bottom of the link) this is done. And we have?
And since this is the case, can you tell me the numbers of the cover and its oil seals (and the number?)?
Just in case, the body number is CP8W-404953. 2002 year. 1.8 l.
I think to order, since such is the case. At the next oil change in the box, I will ask you to replace it.
Added by: I've found an estimate. What is desirable to change from this? As I understand it, the cover with rubber bands on it, as well as the clutches of 3-4 gears. Indicate point by point. Thanks!
Wait kolupalis on existential.
So, the catalog offers 4 covers, depending on the month-year. For 2002, two covers are offered depending on the month. How to define more precisely? 🙂
With the oil seals on the cover, I realized:
FN11-19-762 (or -212 last digits) - 2 pcs., These are small oil seals;
FN01-19-655 - 2 pcs. - large oil seals.
Karbofos Thanks! Found my cover)))
Question to the topstarter. 2005 car. The mileage is small, apparently, that's why the lid is in order.
And what could cause the wear of the rubber bands of the pistons?
I also read a few links that are already well-known here.
If your box kicks back, and it happened quite recently, open it, look at the lid and change the rings FN01-19-655 (2 pcs). These are the ones that sit on the lid and are larger in diameter. We order the cover itself as needed (if there is wear under the rings or the edges of the cover axis).
If the box kicks forward by 3-4 and it happened quite recently, similarly, but FN11-19-762 (or -212 last digits) - 2 pcs. These are small rings on the lid. Similar to the previous case - we order the cover itself as needed (if there is wear under the rings or the edges of the cover axis).
If we ride for a long time with such malfunctions, you need to remove the packages, look at the clutches, “pistons” (I don’t know how to call them correctly) and the brake band.
Attention, question (again :-).
What kind of lid sealant to use? they don't write about it anywhere.
Yeah. I myself only did the parking sensors on the car.
Sometimes you want to take some special Zhiguli purely for fiddling with them in the country.
I've also picked up a bit.
well, whoever throws it out like that .. no newspapers?
I'm afraid to disassemble the mechanic, for some reason it seems to me that the automatic transmission is easier to disassemble / assemble. did not do the mechanics.
In fact, it is not more complicated than an in-line one. Just an unusual layout.
The mechanics are stupidly a set of gears, there is nothing complicated there
I read it as a hedgehog (the suba's engine is called that way) and therefore wrote it right)
Respect for non-rukozhopost, but, in my opinion, such posts are more appropriate to do at autoforums. Subarovody (I am among them) will only say thank you. By the way, I can tell you how to increase the rear-wheel drive preload without reducing the clearance in the clutch pack in the shank. the transition to the blocking mode in general you will not notice on the slippery surface. The box is as I understand it TZ1, not TV.
and I can also post a report about the forced locking of the rear drive. driving sideways will become more comfortable and the load on the shank clutch pack will be reduced.
Oh, Eugene! I almost immediately recognized you by the way of expressing thoughts)
but I'm not writing to you) follow the commentary thread
I know how to do it =) I was looking for a TV tail before rebuild and did not find it. plans to make a toggle switch for C salenoid and put a gearbox with lsd and new drives (old drives were demolished for sale)
the toggle switch, okay, if you need the wire number in the block, I'll tell you how to check so as not to confuse it, I think you know. do you want to increase the preload? you just need to change the oil supply to the solenoid C - it is adjusted with a hexagon. The gearbox is not necessarily LSD-shny, it will not give a complete blockage. Shore track taxis, although I myself drive LSD-shnom. but lsd lsd are also different. look with a clutch in place of the stetelite, and not in the driven gear. they have a harder preload.
I don’t know that. Throw a reference to the source or explain. But even there is no desire to shoot the tail again at all)
well, a kick in the ass is a very common phenomenon and quickly arises, especially among fans of active driving)))) everything is simple there, you insert the hexagon into the hole (I won't tell you the number, you can pick it up empirically, I also picked it up), turn on the ignition, put the automatic transmission switch in position D. the solenoid starts to buzz (voltage is applied to it), turn the hexagon clockwise until the buzzing stops (full blocking mode) and return it a little counterclockwise. I rolled back about 5 degrees. I also recommend checking the voltage on the DPDZ, it should be in the range of 0.46-0.52 V (I experimented up to 0.55, from experience it is better to set 0.48, it's hard to catch, so if you just get into the range, it's already good) ... The brains, by its position, determine the voltage supply to the solenoid C.
I have no hex. Or twist it for 2 small holes?
Here it is necessary to pick out the eno carefully, I also had a hard time getting in. There is an inside nest. You will feel when it engages.
However, I do not have a 6-sided there. Tomorrow I'll take a look at the old braggart. About dpdz everything costs according to manual 0.48.
There is a question about the box, the oil pumps of the TZ103 and TZ1A3 boxes are very different and where you can find information on the boxes on the Subari, otherwise the car does not move, I sin on the oil pump
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Video (click to play). |
The torque converter is an integral part of the automatic transmission, therefore, when repairing the gearbox
its repair is also necessary. In a torque converter, as in an automatic transmission, it can
many breakdowns occur, for example:
Installing an unrepaired torque converter on a newly restored automatic transmission, you risk immediately breaking the gearbox again, because it will contain all the wear products of the torque converter, and in the worst case, the metal parts of the bearings or blades.
Do you want to buy a used torque converter? Don't rush to make a mistake! It is impossible to guess the quality of the automatic transmission fluid coupling used, moreover, purchased at the same price as a reliable repair. We offer the exchange of your torque converter for an already repaired one from our warehouse, or we can carry out a high-quality overhaul in our workshop.
The cost of repairing a torque converter usually varies from 2,500 (disassembly, flushing and assembly) to 12,000 rubles (in case of serious breakdowns), this is influenced by the complexity of the work, the number and cost of damaged parts. This is cheaper than re-repairing an automatic transmission. The average cost of repairs, including labor and spare parts, is about 4-6 thousand rubles.
We also carry out a quick repair of your torque converter in 1-2 hours right in front of you. You yourself will see all its breakdowns. At the same time, we do not make an extra charge for the urgency of work.
1) Cutting the torque converter.
The weld seam, which connects the two halves, is carefully cut, leaving as much metal as possible. With proper cutting, the torque converter can be easily disassembled and reassembled 2-3 times on occasion. Unfortunately, many transformer repair shops remove all metal from the body the first time they cut it.
2) After cleaning all parts of oil and wear products, the repair itself begins. If necessary, a new torque converter lock-up clutch is glued on, the body surface is leveled under the new clutch. And here unscrupulous repairmen again have problems out of the blue. They grind the case for a new friction clutch so that they cut off almost all the metal through and through, because of this, through cracks then appear. A normal craftsman is neat and does not remove excess metal. Then other necessary spare parts are replaced - bearings, O-rings, oil seal, etc. If necessary, a new neck is welded into the transformer cover. This procedure requires accuracy and precision, since usually unskilled workers are not able to cut a hole in the lid to fit the new neck, but drill it half a millimeter more, which is fraught with runout and imbalance.
3) Assembly.
It is imperative to weld both converter halves back as factory. In this case, it is necessary to minimize the axial runout between the two halves (balancing) and ensure the tightness of the seam.For a good craftsman, even the appearance of the repaired unit matters, which is why, after being repaired in GIDROTOR, the torque converter looks the same as a new one made at the factory.
In the video, the usual average result of our repair is a runout of 6 hundredths of a millimeter with an allowable runout of 3 tenths.
