In detail: automatic transmission ar 25 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Automatic four-speed transmission 4L30E was developed for use on rear-wheel drive versions of the Opel Omega and a number of cars of the American concern General Motors, which were intended for the North American market. The relatively easy-to-repair transmission was popular with various automakers and was able to exist on the assembly line for more than a decade.
This modification of the transmission has proven to be extremely reliable and easy to use. The simplicity of the design made it easy to carry out repairs, and the gearbox itself did not require any maintenance. There was no need to change the oil, and with proper operation of the gearbox, the transmission could last without repair for 300,000 kilometers or more. Subsequently, this automatic transmission was successfully used with full and rear-wheel drive BMW, Isuzu and Honda cars. The disadvantages of this modification of gearboxes include its rather bulky dimensions, which, if it was necessary to carry out repair work, forced it to carry out laborious dismantling of the unit.
Automatic transmission 4L30E proved to be a fairly reliable transmission. However, it must be said that the hydraulic drive and torque converter had a limited resource. As a rule, after 200,000 kilometers, irreversible changes were noted, which forced expensive overhauls. The problematic place was the pump sleeve, which often failed.
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Video (click to play). |
You can fill in Dexron VI, for example Mobil ATF D / A (For GM and Ford). How to change the oil in the machine, read THIS article
In this report, I do not aim to teach how to sort out this type of automatic transmission, so I don’t really delve into technological subtleties, but I just want to show that with certain knowledge and skills, this unit can actually be restored on its own.
A little backstory:
A week ago, a terrible thing happened - transmissions began to turn off. As a matter of fact, the question arose about rebuilding the box or replacing it. Since a used box costs money (and it’s not a fact that it will work for a long time), automatic transmission repair is also not cheap, and there was a faulty donor in the face of a native automatic transmission from my car with a mileage of 122,000 km., It was decided to reassembly of the donor on its own, with subsequent castling of these units.
Now let's move on to the process:
The first thing that was done was loading the donor into the trunk and sending it to the sink in order to prevent dirt from getting into the box elements during the overhaul. After washing the automatic transmission, it migrated to the “surgical” table. [attachmentid=66398]
Further points:
1. Disconnecting the torque converter [attachmentid=66399]
2. Oil drain through the filler hole
3. Removing pallets (there was working dust on the pallet magnet, no chips or foreign elements were found) [attachmentid=66400] [attachmentid=66401] [attachmentid=66402]
4. Removing the solenoids and checking for operability (connecting to the battery). It is worth mentioning that even the solenoid called Tech can be mechanically defective.
During this operation, 2 faulty solenoids were identified. [attachmentid=66403] [attachmentid=66404][attachmentid=66433]
Since the exact defect of the box was not known, it was decided to completely troubleshoot the automatic transmission with its almost complete analysis. It is worth noting that even if the 1st malfunction is found, it is NOT worth relying on the fact that the rest is working.
After a complete disassembly of the automatic transmission, it was found that in this automatic transmission the mechanical part is fully operational, as evidenced by the absence of wear of the friction clutches, the absence of breakdowns or burnout of the rubber seals of the pistons, the absence of mechanical damage to the planetary gears, the allowable backlash of the planetary gear carriers, the correct operation of the overrunning clutches, the integrity of the brake ribbons.
The hydraulic part, excluding 2 solenoids, identified at the initial stage of disassembly, is fully operational (the pressure is normal), as evidenced by the friction clutches, the color of the package cases, the integrity of the axial seals and liners have not been changed.
Next, the automatic transmission is assembled in reverse order with the replacement of all gaskets [attachmentid=66431], oil seals, sealing rings [attachmentid=66432], liners, if necessary, friction clutches and steel rings.
After assembly, install on the car.
The result of the work done: the automatic transmission works properly, when the gears are turned on, there are no jerks, jerks, slips, the shifts occur smoothly, without delays.
Expenses (rub.):
1. Gasket kit without clutches - 2350[attachmentid=66590][attachmentid=66591]
2. 2 solenoids - 2 x 1300[attachmentid=66593]
3. Oil filter - 450[attachmentid=66592]
4. GM oil - approximately 1700 (7 liters)
5. Replacement of automatic transmission in Darmina with a 10% discount on a club card - 4000
6. Automatic transmission washing - 250
Total: 11350
The removed buggy box will be disassembled and restored in the future.
ZY: I express my gratitude to my friend Pavel (81blok) for help in the bulkhead, Dima (Ambra) for the provided automatic transmission scheme.
Good day to all!
Does anyone have experience with this problem:
Today I made a U-turn (“in 2 steps”), turned on Drive, drove as close as possible to the curb, then turned on R and heard some kind of ringing, the box stopped responding to the selector’s movement, as if N neutral was constantly on. The car starts without problems, the BC does not write errors. Switching the selector became very easy with the car running and even easier with the ignition off. During a visual inspection in the garage, nothing was noticed that could be characterized as a broken selector. I think the problem is inside.
If there is a diagram of the box, I will be grateful (I'm going to remove the pallet and look at the weekend)
If there is a competent consideration I will be grateful in doubly.
with SW I
Good day to all!
Does anyone have experience with this problem:
Today I made a U-turn (“in 2 steps”), turned on Drive, drove as close as possible to the curb, then turned on R and heard some kind of ringing, the box stopped responding to the selector’s movement, as if N neutral was constantly on. The car starts without problems, the BC does not write errors. Switching the selector became very easy with the car running and even easier with the ignition off. During a visual inspection in the garage, nothing was noticed that could be characterized as a broken selector. I think the problem is inside.
If there is a diagram of the box, I will be grateful (I'm going to remove the pallet and look at the weekend)
If there is a competent consideration I will be grateful in doubly.
with SW I
And the adjusting bolt on the traction from the outside did not burst? Maybe the thrust is “playing” back and forth now?
And the adjusting bolt on the traction from the outside did not burst? Maybe the thrust is “playing” back and forth now?
I switched gears with the key for 17 from the pit (but somehow it was easy to switch.)
I switched gears with the key for 17 from the pit (but somehow it was easy to switch.)
Took off the tray. The selector moves the rod in the box, visually everything is in place .. I drove it to Chernihiv for diagnostics. They fiddled for a long time, they offered to disassemble it, I refused, after that they made a call to Kiev, from there I heard that with a 90% probability that the oil pump had died. They didn’t announce the price for the pump and replacement, but they said that it would be very expensive .. It’s easier to find another used box.
Viktor, tell me, does the box become a 2.5 engine?
What are the tips when buying boo boxes?
The average price of a used automatic transmission?
Before starting, I would take apart the box. So early to say. At the same time and look at the state of the rest. And the prices are different, for example, I bought a box thanks to my friend for 500 UAH. this year, but this is an exception. And so 500 ye. in Lvov there are a lot of them. If I can give coordinates.
In Kiev, 400 USD, but the question is how much it departs .. Thanks for the consultation
NeoMax there is literature on the machine, its filling and repair is true in English, if interested, I can reset it.
Can someone advise automatic transmission repairmen (sane in terms of price and quality)?
I looked at the black and white list. didn't really see anything.
Took off the tray. The selector moves the rod in the box, visually everything is in place .. I drove it to Chernihiv for diagnostics. They fiddled for a long time, they offered to disassemble it, I refused, after that they made a call to Kiev, from there I heard that with a 90% probability that the oil pump had died. They didn’t announce the price for the pump and replacement, but they said that it would be very expensive .. It’s easier to find another used box.
Viktor, tell me, does the box become a 2.5 engine?
What are the tips when buying boo boxes?
The average price of a used automatic transmission?
The spring with the roller is intact. which fix the selector shaft, you can see it in the photo
the entire load of the selector is obtained by pressing this roller against the toothed crescent, there is no more load, if the shaft moves easily, then this spring has burst
Modified: SPIK., 22 July 2009 - 21:11
vladd July 22, 2009
vladd July 22, 2009The spring with the roller is intact. which fix the selector shaft, you can see it in the photo
the entire load of the selector is obtained by pressing this roller against the toothed crescent, there is no more load, if the shaft moves easily, then this spring has burst
whole
Max, how is your box?
In the "sell" posted a machine for 400
showtopic=74118
It's expensive, the price of the machine is not more than 2000 UAH
Max, how is your box?
In the "sell" posted a machine for 400
showtopic=74118
Dumb as it is, and the torque converter is different.
It's expensive, the price of the machine is not more than 2000 UAH
A box from a station wagon, and even with a towbar, you can only take it for busting.
I am looking for a fresher box not from a diesel engine and without a tow bar.
I am looking for a fresher box not from a diesel engine and without a tow bar.
It seems they are also selling a motor with automatic transmission, a fresh announcement. Maybe it will only hook the automatic transmission.
Here
showtopic=72881
true also 400
NeoMax Ah that literature received from me? Maybe it makes sense to translate it and sort out the breakdown yourself?
Throw me a soap if it doesn't make it difficult
NeoMax Ah that literature received from me? Maybe it makes sense to translate it and sort out the breakdown yourself?
Haven't gotten there yet. Password pierced .. Remind plz
It seems they are also selling a motor with automatic transmission, a fresh announcement. Maybe it will only hook the automatic transmission.
Here
showtopic=72881
true also 400
Towbar =)) and in Kiev they offer 300 USD for disassembly without a selector and a week to “like it”, if not, then another .. and when a person sells his own for 400, it doesn’t matter what condition it is in, and after a week a “jamb” will come out ”, then it will be difficult for this person to part with the money and get his box back ..
My IMHO
Towbar =)) and in Kiev they offer 300 USD for disassembly without a selector and a week to “like it”, if not, then another .. and when a person sells his own for 400, it doesn’t matter what condition it is in, and after a week a “jamb” will come out ”, then it will be difficult for this person to part with the money and get his box back ..
My IMHO
Call the number that I gave 🙂 And the price is regulated and it will be easy to get rid of it if something happens.
4-speed automatic transmission 4L30E is a continuation of a simple and reliable 3-speed transmission 3L30Ewhich has been operating since 1969.
These transmissions were produced in the USA and in Europe (Strasbourg) under the name AR25, for the rear-wheel drive European Opel Omega and the rare AR35 for our 3-liter Boat. (automatic transmission application list 4L30E at the bottom ).
The marking is on the automatic transmission plate and is related to the French system: AF - automatic forward, and AR - automatic rear.
4L30E It has been installed since 1990 on rear- and all-wheel drive BMWs of all series with engines up to 3 liters, but it has been much more widely used on GM, Opel Omega, Isuzu and even Honda Passport cars, where it has proven itself from the best side.
Machines produced more than 20 years ago still come in for overhaul every month.
Pick up repair kits - press the button on the left.
Typical overhaul 4L30
Changes: disposable Filter - No. 203010. A metal-plastic filter with a double felt membrane, for older cars, it is recommended to be replaced with each oil change in order to save the life of the pump and bushings.
This box uses two different modifications filters with depending on pallet : One - black for BMW 203010A ( on right),
and the other is the most popular yellow filter for repair with a 13mm intake for GM/ Opel/ Isuzu/ Honda 203010B ( left )
- Repair kit for gaskets and seals (No. 203002), most often they choose ATOK assemblies, two times less often - Precision and Transtec.
- Clutch kit - 203003, clutch kits differ by year of manufacture - before 97 and after 1998, when the 3-d Clutch package was strengthened.
Less commonly ordered Set of steel discs - No. 203004
The pump bushing, washer washers, brake band must be changed, the rest - according to the results of diagnostics after disassembly.
When the car arrived for repair on time, the craftsmen limited themselves to repairing the narrowest point - replacing the Pump Bushing # 203034
In automatic transmission 4L30E The torque converter, valve body and solenoids have a relatively limited resource, the work of which gradually and imperceptibly worsens with the wear of the gas turbine engine blocking clutch and the build-up of soot in the narrowest places, which causes oil pressure to drop and oil starvation sets in, which adversely affects bushings , which, nevertheless, have quite a decent resource.
One of the frequent replacements is the brake band - No. 203026.
From the hardware, the condition of the Low Drum (203557) is checked, which is worn out by the unevenly worn brake band.
Operation with a worn pump bushing and dirty oil leads to failure of the oil pump itself. Worn out gears are being replaced - No. 203530.
It manifests itself in leaks from under the pump seal - No. 203070.
Leaks are usually caused by wear vibrations.
Consumables are plastic washers bearings - 203200.
They change with every overhaul.
The valve body after 200 tkm requires routine disassembly, repair and cleaning from carbon deposits. To drive the brake band, a linear pressure solenoid was introduced into the design of the valve body, which is able to regulate the pressure of the band on the drum using PWM (PWM - wide pulse modulation, more).
From electricians, a typical problem of an age machine can be considered solenoidsthat have exhausted their resources. Often found in replacement - Line pressure solenoid No. 203435.
– Shift solenoids No. 203421 and 203422. (Checking with an ohmmeter according to the manuals and purge)
- brake band control solenoid - No. 203418.
Also ordered - speed sensor, solenoid wiring 203446, connector connector 203444.
Less commonly asked torque converter lock-up solenoid #203425
Of iron, one can note the Planetary Row found in repairs (No. 203583). Which changes most often to the overloaded age Isuzu.
A fairly reliable, well-adjusted box with a large resource for iron, which, after a simple overhaul, can serve for several more years with proper oil control.
Suffering 04 May 2011
Suffering 04 May 2011 Suffering 05 May 2011
Suffering, take, for example, an electrical circuit from a car, and specifically this piece:
[attachment=15285:ElAKPP.jpg]
on it:
U10.1 - torque converter lock-up solenoid
U10.2 - solenoid pressure regulator
U13.1 - switching solenoid “2-3”
U13.2 - switching solenoid “1-2,3-4”
U13.3 - brake band control solenoid
P48 - speed sensor
Well, starting, for example, from the automatic transmission control unit, you can already begin to ring the circuits passing through the disturbing solenoids. At work, there are no winding resistance values \u200b\u200bat hand, but I can tentatively say that they should be from about 10 ohms to 20 ohms. Tester in hand and go!
The solenoids are accessible from below by removing the trays: small for U10, large for U13. There is no need to take the box apart.
According to TPS: since the diagnostician says, then it is necessary to change.
Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day
CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts
For those who have problems with the automatic transmission (drives, but badly).
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The AGREGATKA company is a federal network of technical centers whose main specialization is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including dual-clutch robotic transmissions, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions
The AGREGATKA company is a federal network of technical centers whose main specialization is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including dual-clutch robotic transmissions, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions
An automatic transmission is an expensive unit. It makes no sense to delay the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are an expensive pleasure. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for parts. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that do-it-yourself automatic transmission repair is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of service station masters cannot be called modest, and professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists may decide to troubleshoot on their own.
Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes as follows:
- diagnostics,
- dismantling the box
- box disassembly,
- spare parts kit,
- assembly (installation),
- car installation,
- diagnostics after repair.
To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, a certain amount of time to work, patience and perseverance.
All automatic transmissions are arranged in the same way, but There are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their repair has some differences.
It is important to notice problems in the transmission at an early stage. Then, with proper diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often, these are extraneous sounds when shifting gears or during transmission robots. It can be a crunch, clicks. An unpleasant smell also indicates problems. It can appear during long or short-term operation of the box. Worse, if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.
Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Spots of red color will indicate an oil leak from the gearbox. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No smells of burnt or cloudy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.
Automatic transmission malfunctions often occur due to improper use. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or its overheating. For this reason, gears wear out, the machine can jerk when switching gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks during movement indicate oil overheating and problems in the valve body.
Aggressive driving with hard accelerations and decelerations will cause details to be erased. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and badly affects its general condition.
All faults are divided into two subgroups. They may occur in
- electronic control system,
- mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.
In the event of a malfunction, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it becomes in third gear and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the board.
If problems arose with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.
In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly.Therefore, it is better to turn to specialists. Determine what the problem is in the service station, and repair it yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time diagnosing. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.
The general scheme for carrying out diagnostic procedures:
- check the oil
- check the operation of the engine at idle, the connection points of the electrical wiring and cables,
- determine the error codes for the operation of control units (CU) for the gearbox and engine,
- check the box on the car without movement,
- check the automatic transmission in motion,
- check the pressure inside the control system.
If the cause of the malfunctions is problems with the electronics, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the gear ratio of the gearbox and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:
- input sensors,
- electronic control unit,
- executive devices of the control system,
- violation of the integrity of electrical wiring connections.
The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If any parameters are out of the norm, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decipher such numbers using a special scanner.
These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conditionally divided into three subgroups:
- Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
- Transformer failure. This includes:
- wire breaks,
- mechanical destruction of the blades,
- overrunning clutch,
- wear of the main locking clutch,
- depressurization of the piston seal.
- Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.
If the diagnosis was successful and you can’t do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of automatic transmission repair.
You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to carry out such a procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It would be useful to invite a few physically strong guys to help move the removed box. Her weight is beyond the power of even a very strong person. Further action plan:
- disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
- unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
- remove and move the gearbox;
- assess the extent of the damage and proceed with the repair.
Before removing the gearbox, the oil from it can not be drained. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the attachment point of the oil supply pipes when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.
All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines of the diaphragm input shaft.
Do-it-yourself automatic transmission repair is best done with a company manual and a printed gearbox diagram. First you need to inspect all systems serving the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we start repairing. For this:
- We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
- We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn parts.
- Remove the inhibitor block and pan. We clean the dirt inside. It looks like a metal magnetic chip.
- Remove the ring wires from the plug and push them inside the plug.
- Remove the hydraulic unit, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the hydraulic unit.
- Clutches, gears and planetaries are checked for wear. We replace if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
- We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its time. We use the manual so as not to change parts in places.
- We take out the valves and springs. Flush valves. Their sticking can be the cause of incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. We change the accumulator springs if they are broken.
- Putting everything back in place. It is important not to confuse anything!
- Replace rings and friction bolts.
- We check the gearshift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.
Assembly is in reverse order.
There are some points that it is desirable to take into account when repairing. Often the problem with the operation of the gearbox is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the hydraulic unit completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special limiter does not allow to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. When assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overdo it here.
If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. When doing this, the following guidelines should be followed:
- When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the membrane is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
- The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of gear oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and placed on the input shaft. It is necessary to achieve a reliable connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. Carters must adjoin completely.
- Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps over the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correct connections are checked.
- At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.
Starting the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the engine crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If there is not at least one, it is impossible to mount the automatic transmission.
Repair and diagnostics of automatic transmission with your own hands is not an easy, but feasible task. When choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice motorists believe that its repair at home is impossible. This is not true. But before you decide to carry out such responsible work at home, you need to weigh all your options. Then you will not expect unpleasant surprises during the repair.
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I took over the repair of the automatic transmission FN4A-EL (4F27E) from a friend in Premasi. I will post the report along the way here:.
Expert advice and recommendations are welcome 🙂
as far as I understand - human labor pens. we still need it. pour in! Respect and respect. You grabbed a repair, not even with our masya, but I look at your experience even from other people's cars more than ours. We are very glad to welcome you in our ranks.
As I understand it, if the symptoms are not 4 gears, then slowly vomit on L into boxing.
We order a cover and 4 rubber bands (sort of like) and for a start we change only the cover.
Do I understand correctly that the cover can be removed without lowering the engine on the jack? On the chapel (there at the bottom of the link) this is done. And we have?
And since this is the case, can you tell me the numbers of the cover and its glands (and quantity?)?
Just in case, the body number is CP8W-404953. 2002. 1.8 l.
I think to order, since such a thing. At the next oil change in the box, I will ask you to change it.
Added: Here I found a quote. What would you like to change from this? As I understand it, a cover with rubber bands on it, as well as clutches for 3-4 gears. Point by point. Thanks!
Wait kolupalsya on existentialism.
So, according to the catalog, 4 covers are offered, depending on the month-year. Under 2002, two covers are offered depending on the month. How would you be more specific? 🙂
With seals on the cover I understood:
FN11-19-762 (or -212 last digits) - 2 pcs., these are small oil seals;
FN01-19-655 - 2 pcs., - large oil seals.
Karbofos Thanks! Found my cover
Question to the topikstarter. Machine 2005.The mileage is small, apparently, therefore the cover is in order.
And what could cause piston rubber wear?
I also read a few well-known links here.
If your box is kicking back, and it happened recently, open it, look at the lid and change the rings FN01-19-655 (2 pcs). These are those that sit on the lid and are larger in diameter. We order the lid itself as needed (if there is wear under the rings or the edges of the lid axis).
If the box kicks forward 3-4 and it happened quite recently, similar, but FN11-19-762 (or -212 last digits) - 2 pcs. These are small rings on the lid. Similarly to the previous case, we order the cover itself as needed (if there is wear under the rings or the edges of the cover axis).
If we ride for a long time with such malfunctions, you need to remove the packages, look at the friction clutches, “pistons” (I don’t know how to call them correctly) and the brake band.
Attention, question (again :-).
What sealant to use for the lid? they don't write about it anywhere.
Yeah. I myself only did the parking sensors on the car.
Sometimes you want to take some special Zhiguli purely for fussing with them in the country.
I also picked up a bit here.
well ktozh so scatters it .. newspapers not?
I'm afraid to disassemble the mechanics, for some reason it seems to me that the automatic transmission is easier to disassemble / assemble. did not do the mechanics.
In fact, it is not more difficult than an in-line one. Just an odd layout.
Mechanics is a stupid set of gears, there is nothing complicated
I even read it as a Hedgehog (this is what the Suba engine is called) and therefore wrote it out of place)
Respect for nerukozhopost, but, in my opinion, it is more appropriate to do such posts on autoforums. Subarovody (I am one of them) will only say thank you. By the way, I can tell you how to increase the preload on the rear-wheel drive, without reducing the gap in the clutch package in the shank. you will not notice the transition to blocking mode at all on the most slippery surface. The box, as I understand it, is TZ1, not TV.
and I can post a report about the forced locking of the rear-wheel drive. driving sideways will become more comfortable and the load on the shank clutch package will be reduced.
Oh Eugene! I almost immediately recognized you by the way you expressed your thoughts)
but I’m not writing to you anyway) follow the comments thread
I know how to do it =) I searched for the TV tail before the rebuild and did not find it. I plan to make a toggle switch on C salenoid and put a gearbox with LSD and new drives (the old drives were not sold)
toggle switch okay, if you need the number of the wire in the block, I’ll tell you how to check so as not to confuse, I think you know. do you want to increase the preload? you just need to change the oil supply on solenoid C - it is adjusted with a hexagon. The gearbox is not necessarily LSD-shny, it will not give a complete blockage. shore-track rolls, although I myself drive LSD-shnom. but lsd lsd is also different. look for a clutch in place of the sttelites, and not in the driven gear. they have tighter preload.
I don't know this. Throw a link to the source or explain. But even now there is no desire to shoot the tail again)
well, a kick in the ass is a very common phenomenon and quickly arising, especially for lovers of active driving)))) everything is simple there, you insert the hexagon into the hole (I won’t tell you the number, you can pick it up empirically, I also picked it up), turn on the ignition, put the automatic transmission switch in position D. the solenoid starts buzzing (voltage is applied to it), turn the hexagon clockwise until the buzzing stops (full blocking mode) and return it counterclockwise a little. I rolled back about 5 degrees. I also recommend checking the voltage on the TPS, it should be in the range of 0.46-0.52 V (I experimented up to 0.55, from experience it’s better to set 0.48, it’s hard to catch, so if you just get into the range, it’s already good) . The brain determines the voltage supply to solenoid C by its position.
I don't have a hex. Or twist it for 2 small holes?
Here it is necessary to carefully open it, my gestinrannik also hardly entered. There's a nest inside. You will feel when it engages.
However, I don't have a 6-hedron there. I'll take a look at the old one tomorrow.About dpdz everything costs 0.48 according to the manual.
There is a question about the box, the oil pumps of the TZ103 and TZ1A3 boxes are very different and where can I find information on the boxes for the Subari, otherwise the car does not move, I sin on the oil pump
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Video (click to play). |
The torque converter is an integral part of the automatic transmission, therefore, when repairing the box
it definitely needs to be repaired. In a torque converter, as in an automatic transmission, it can
many breakdowns occur, for example:
By installing an unrepaired torque converter on a newly restored automatic transmission, you run the risk of immediately breaking the box again, because. it will contain all the wear products of the torque converter, and in the worst case, the metal parts of the bearings or blades.
Do you want to buy a used torque converter? Do not rush to make a mistake! It is impossible to guess the quality of an automatic transmission hydraulic clutch control unit, moreover, bought at the same price as a reliable repair. We offer the exchange of your torque converter for an already repaired one from our warehouse, or we can carry out a high-quality overhaul in our workshop.
The cost of repairing a torque converter usually varies from 2500 (dismantling, flushing and assembly) to 12000 rubles (in case of serious breakdowns), this is affected by the complexity of the work, the number and cost of damaged parts. It comes out cheaper than re-repairing the automatic transmission. The average cost of repairs, including labor and spare parts, is about 4-6 thousand rubles.
We also carry out a quick repair of your torque converter in 1-2 hours right in front of you. You yourself will see all its breakdowns. At the same time, we do not make an extra charge for the urgency of work.
1) Torque converter cutting.
The welding seam that connects the two halves is carefully cut off, while leaving as much metal as possible. With proper cutting, the torque converter can, on occasion, be easily disassembled and reassembled 2-3 more times. Unfortunately, many transformer repair shops cleanly cut off all the metal from the case on the first cut.
2) After cleaning all parts from oil and wear products, the repair itself begins. If necessary, a new torque converter lock-up clutch is glued, the body surface is leveled under the new clutch. And here unscrupulous repairmen again have problems out of the blue. They machine the housing for the new friction clutch in such a way that they cut almost all the metal through, because of this, then through cracks appear. A normal master is careful and does not remove excess metal. Then other necessary spare parts are replaced - bearings, o-rings, stuffing box, etc. If necessary, a new neck is welded into the transformer cover. This procedure requires accuracy and accuracy, because. usually unskilled workers are not able to cut a hole in the lid to fit the new neck, but drill it half a millimeter more, which is fraught with beating and imbalance.
3) Assembly.
It is extremely important to weld both halves of the torque converter back as they were at the factory. In this case, it is necessary to minimize the axial runout between the two halves (balancing) and ensure the tightness of the seam. For a good craftsman, even the appearance of the repaired unit is important, which is why, after repair in GIDROTOR, the torque converter looks the same as a new one made at the factory.
In the video, the usual average result of our repair is a runout of 6 hundredths of a millimeter with an allowable runout of 3 tenths.
