Automatic transmission m4ta do-it-yourself repair

An automatic transmission is an expensive unit. It makes no sense to delay the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are an expensive pleasure. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for parts. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that do-it-yourself automatic transmission repair is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of service station masters cannot be called modest, and professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists may decide to troubleshoot on their own.

Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes as follows:

• diagnostics,
• dismantling the box
• box disassembly,
• spare parts kit,
• assembly (installation),
• car installation,
• diagnostics after repair.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, a certain amount of time to work, patience and perseverance.

All automatic transmissions are arranged in the same way, but There are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their repair has some differences.

It is important to notice problems in the transmission at an early stage. Then, with proper diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often, these are extraneous sounds when shifting gears or during transmission robots. It can be a crunch, clicks. An unpleasant smell also indicates problems. It can appear during long or short-term operation of the box. Worse, if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.

Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Spots of red color will indicate an oil leak from the gearbox. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No smells of burnt or cloudy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.

Automatic transmission malfunctions often occur due to improper use. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or its overheating. For this reason, gears wear out, the machine can jerk when switching gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks during movement indicate oil overheating and problems in the valve body.

Aggressive driving with hard accelerations and decelerations will cause details to be erased. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and badly affects its general condition.

All faults are divided into two subgroups. They may occur in

• electronic control system,
• mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.

In the event of a malfunction, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it becomes in third gear and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the board.

If problems arose with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.

In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to turn to specialists. Determine what the problem is in the service station, and repair it yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time diagnosing. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.

The general scheme for carrying out diagnostic procedures:

• check the oil
• check the operation of the engine at idle, the connection points of the electrical wiring and cables,
• determine the error codes for the operation of control units (CU) for the gearbox and engine,
• check the box on the car without movement,
• check the automatic transmission in motion,
• check the pressure inside the control system.

If the cause of the malfunctions is problems with the electronics, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the gear ratio of the gearbox and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:

• input sensors,
• electronic control unit,
• executive devices of the control system,
• violation of the integrity of electrical wiring connections.

The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If any parameters are out of the norm, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decipher such numbers using a special scanner.

These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conditionally divided into three subgroups:

1. Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
2. Transformer failure. This includes:
   • wire breaks,
   • mechanical destruction of the blades,
   • overrunning clutch,
   • wear of the main locking clutch,
   • depressurization of the piston seal.
   • Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.

If the diagnosis was successful and you can’t do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of automatic transmission repair.

You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to carry out such a procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It would be useful to invite a few physically strong guys to help move the removed box. Her weight is beyond the power of even a very strong person. Further action plan:

1. disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
2. unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
3. remove and move the gearbox;
4. assess the extent of the damage and proceed with the repair.

Before removing the gearbox, the oil from it can not be drained. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the attachment point of the oil supply pipes when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.

All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines of the diaphragm input shaft.

Do-it-yourself automatic transmission repair is best done with a company manual and a printed gearbox diagram. First you need to inspect all systems serving the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we start repairing. For this:

1. We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
2. We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn parts.
3. Remove the inhibitor block and pan. We clean the dirt inside. It looks like a metal magnetic chip.
4. Remove the ring wires from the plug and push them inside the plug.
5. Remove the hydraulic unit, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the hydraulic unit.
6. Clutches, gears and planetaries are checked for wear. We replace if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
7. We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its time. We use the manual so as not to change parts in places.
8. We take out the valves and springs. Flush valves. Their sticking can be the cause of incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. We change the accumulator springs if they are broken.
9. Putting everything back in place. It is important not to confuse anything!
10. Replace rings and friction bolts.
11. We check the gearshift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.

Assembly is in reverse order.

There are some points that it is desirable to take into account when repairing. Often the problem with the operation of the gearbox is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely.The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special limiter does not allow to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. When assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overdo it here.

If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. When doing this, the following guidelines should be followed:

• When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the membrane is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
• The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of gear oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and placed on the input shaft. It is necessary to achieve a reliable connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. Carters must adjoin completely.
• Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps over the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correct connections are checked.
• At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.

Starting the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the engine crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If there is not at least one, it is impossible to mount the automatic transmission.

Repair and diagnostics of automatic transmission with your own hands is not an easy, but feasible task. When choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice motorists believe that its repair at home is impossible. This is not true. But before you decide to carry out such responsible work at home, you need to weigh all your options. Then you will not expect unpleasant surprises during the repair.

Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day

CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts

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The AGREGATKA company is a federal network of technical centers whose main specialization is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including dual-clutch robotic transmissions, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions

The AGREGATKA company is a federal network of technical centers whose main specialization is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including dual-clutch robotic transmissions, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions

What can be done with the transmission housing.

You can change the shaft support bearings, for this you need to push the retaining ring and carefully work with heads of large diameters and a hammer.

An idle ZX gear is also fixed there. There is also an auxiliary shaft with a gear and a reduced friction clutch. Used when the selector is in “1” - you will notice that only in this position in first gear there is engine braking.
In general, you can disassemble it - just squeeze the shaft into the box, and move the gear, bearings and friction clutch to the side. The nut (there is one) does not need to be unscrewed.Rinse everything, replace the oil seals on the shaft, disassemble and rinse the friction clutch, change the rubber bands and discs on it. I did, since the repair kit had steel disks and rubber bands for this shaft. But in general, you can not touch. When reassembling, according to the manual, you need to put a new ATP guide cap (although the old one was like nothing).

On boxes with cable control, you can change the small shaft seal of this very cable. Change the right inner CV joint seal.
Everything, the main cavity of the box has opened.

Remove the reverse gear bushing, needle bearing and 3X gear from the output shaft. Unscrew the bolt from the ZX shift fork, remove the fork together with the selector ring. Now pull both shafts together.

Next, the differential is removed as an assembly.

Change the oil seals of the left inner CV joint, input shaft in the torque converter housing.
Be careful when removing seals! Do not damage the case, it is aluminum, easily crumpled and scratched. Rough scratches can be rubbed with #600 sandpaper soaked in ATP for half an hour. Lubricate new seals with ATP. I used a hammer during installation - gently tapping the stuffing box in a circle, the most tedious thing is to drive the first millimeters with the whole circumference.
There is also a control shaft seal (which transmits the mode switching from the selector cable to the manual box valve). This seal is easy to change.

Remove the filter (it can be removed in principle and immediately after opening the case
It looks supposedly clean, but as soon as you start washing it like dirt, like from a boot ...
I won’t buy a new one, I washed it completely, and behind the walls too.
Turned on a flashlight from below for clearance

in general, many recommend changing it, if it would have been dirt in the trash, I would certainly have done so!
We examine the shaft

they shouldn’t affect the work, but where does this crap come from, I looked at the pictures of who repaired it — the same bullies … well, they don’t look like factory ones!
Next we see the seals on the shaft

And see where they go
continuation to follow.

What can be done with the transmission housing.

You can change the shaft support bearings, for this you need to push the retaining ring and carefully work with heads of large diameters and a hammer.

An idle ZX gear is also fixed there. There is also an auxiliary shaft with a gear and a reduced friction clutch. Used when the selector is in “1” - you will notice that only in this position in first gear there is engine braking.
In general, you can disassemble it - just squeeze the shaft into the box, and move the gear, bearings and friction clutch to the side. The nut (there is one) does not need to be unscrewed. Rinse everything, replace the oil seals on the shaft, disassemble and rinse the friction clutch, change the rubber bands and discs on it. I did, since the repair kit had steel disks and rubber bands for this shaft. But in general, you can not touch. When reassembling, according to the manual, you need to put a new ATP guide cap (although the old one was like nothing).

On boxes with cable control, you can change the small shaft seal of this very cable. Change the right inner CV joint seal.
Everything, the main cavity of the box has opened.

Attention! A network of car services at favorable prices. Wheel alignment check FREE OF CHARGE! No queues! Same day repair!

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An automatic gearbox is the most expensive part of a car to repair, which is why, when the first signs of a problem appear, it is necessary to immediately eliminate the defect. If this is not done on time, then in the future it can turn into more serious problems. And if you contact a specialized service, then repairs there can be very expensive. Motorists, having studied the spare parts market, come to one conclusion - that do-it-yourself repair is a pretty good idea, since it will be possible to save a lot.

We have prepared this article specifically for those who have never encountered problems in the gearbox, and also if you are planning to repair it on your own.We will tell you in detail using an example of how the automatic transmission srv rd1 is repaired with our own hands. We will also share with you interesting knowledge, in the future they will help you extend the life of your car.

In the 21st century, absolutely all cars moving on the roads are insured, in the event of a malfunction, most of the costs can be covered. But the insurance also states the conditions that repairs and maintenance can only be carried out in special auto repair shops. Otherwise, if suddenly the repair was carried out in other places or independently, then all warranties will be lost.

And if you still decide to do the repair yourself, then you should be aware that if you dismantle any parts of the machine, no one will pay you for the damage caused to it.

It is strictly forbidden to move the car by towing, especially if there is an excess of oil in the box. Do not forget to change the oil in the car - it is recommended to do this every 20 thousand kilometers. This, of course, is an individual indicator and it depends on many other factors, but you definitely need to change it more often than once a year. Too much oil in the box is also not good, because it will start to foam and will not remove heat from the transmission badly. Therefore, it is advisable to check the oil whenever you are especially going on a long trip.

The whole process takes place according to the following plan:

Removing the box from the case.

New set of spare parts.

The structure of all AKKPs is the same, and therefore there will be no difficulties. The differences are only in the transmission control device, it can be either electronic or hydraulic. And so the repair process will have minor differences.

Most of all transmission problems are due to improper operation of the vehicle. Now we will share with you the main factors that further lead to disruption of the entire transmission:

Insufficient or excessive oil level, because of this, gears wear out quickly and jerks and breakdowns can occur when switching;

Towing, we have already talked about this, and you need to remember that you should not tow a car;

Sharp braking and acceleration also lead to rapid wear of parts;

The gear shift knob is jammed - learn more about how the automatic transmission is being repaired

It is desirable to detect malfunctions in the gearbox at the very first stages, so you don’t have to completely sort out the gearbox and waste a lot. There are plenty of signs of problems in the box, but we will tell you the most common ones:

Characteristic sounds when shifting gears, an extraneous smell may also be present;

If the transmission does not engage at all, this is a sign of a serious problem, and emergency repairs will need to be done;

You should always check the surface under the car, there should not be any stains. If they are found, then this indicates a leak, and this problem will need to be addressed.

Repair of this car can be done both by specialists and with your own hands. As with all cars, in order to disassemble the box, it must be removed. To do this, disconnect the subframe, disassemble the lower stabilizers. The repair process consists in disassembling the box, identifying problems and fixing them, and then doing all this work in reverse order. Do not forget to check the operation of the torque converter, and the integrity of its device. Because parts can be worn out there, and this is not good.

Next, you should check the condition of the friction departments, they can fail very often, mainly due to sudden braking. After all the points done, you need to mount the box back into the car.First of all, all attachments, and then the torque converter, and at the end, fix the transfer case. It should be noted that such work without fail requires at least minimal knowledge in the structure of the car. You can repair a Honda CR-V car with your own hands, but still there are such cases that you have to turn to professionals at a service station.

The box is a very complex mechanism that must be looked after, otherwise it can lead to negative consequences. If you take care of the car correctly, then repair of the box may not be necessary even after 250 thousand kilometers. Therefore, try to drive correctly and do not rape your car. An example of good serviceability is Japanese cars from the 80s. Some of them have already traveled about a million thousand kilometers. Do not forget about your car, and then it will serve you for many years without major repairs.

We hope that our article was useful for you, and you were able to figure out how to properly repair the Honda SRV RD-1 automatic transmission with your own hands. You should not wait for the worst signal from your car so that you do not have to change it. Pay attention even to small signs, and then the car will thank you for a long service life. We wish you success!

all 4-speed gearboxes have a related design - M4TA / S4TA / MDMA / MDLA / S4XA, SKWA

MRVA/MCVA ELEMENT BZKA/MZKA

MP1A, MPJA/ A6VA/ AOYA/ BOYA/ MPOA/ MPXA/ MPWA

HONDA automatic transmissions stand apart from other automatic transmission manufacturers.

Honda gearboxes are fundamentally different from the rest of the world, in particular, in that they do not use planetary gears. They are much simpler constructively, more massive and, as a result, much more reliable. They come into repairs almost like manual gearboxes - rarely and with very high mileage. But Honda automatics, like the rest of the world, still have “weak points” of electronic switching control: Friction discs, solenoids - electromechanical valves and a valve body.

Honda gave the names to its numerous modifications haphazardly, using letters (MDLA) all in a row, as on the registration numbers of cars. Together with letters, numbers began to be used (such as the bestseller - M4TA). The only traceable useful pattern is that for all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive cars, the modification usually has the same-different letters # 3: MDMA (four-wheel drive) and MDLA (front). Also, sometimes such letter substitutions are observed in automatic machines for one car model, but produced at different factories (for example, in the popular 98 Accord box: American assembly - BAXA, Japanese - MAXA)

On which Honda cars these most popular 4-mortars are installed - see the table on the left. We meet this class of 4AT machines most often on: Civic, Accord, CR-V, Odyssey, Prelude, Element and on Akurovsky 2.2CL - 3.5 RL, Integra, Legend, NSX.

The most popular family of 4-speed 3-shaft transmissions are M4TA (MDMA/ MRVA/ MDLA) - Honda (CR-V) with an engine from 2 to 2.4 liters from 1997-2001. Honda machines are distinguished by their reliability and unpretentiousness. Therefore, some owners forget to monitor the quality of the oil and change it on time along with the filter. Which leads to contamination of the valve body valves and solenoids, oil starvation and accelerated wear of sealing rings, friction clutches and bushings. The normal mileage before the first overhaul is considered to be 300-400 tkm.

Pick up repair kits

In Honda non-killable machines, the first one usually requires repair (replacement of consumables) is the torque converter - 380001.

A typical overhaul with a bulkhead begins in old age with an oil change and a metal filter with a metal mesh - M4TA filter 96-98. - No. 380010.

With the change in the valve body, the filter mount has changed for subsequent modifications of 99-2001 (Civic / CRV) - 380010AB.

For age machines, masters install an external magnetic fine filter - 100019,

The main external fine filter helps to keep the oil transparent and pushes back the wear of friction units.This is recommended for all vending machines that have a standard filter with a metal mesh. External filter - 100019 on age machines it is worth checking to change every year or every 10 tkm. More details - here .

Since 2002, with the use of synthetic oils for their boxes, Honda has switched to plastic filters with a felt membrane (MRMA / MRVA / MCTA) - 380010C.

To overhaul this family of filter boxes, a Complete Gasket and Oil Seal Kit with Clutches and Steel Discs is often ordered - Masterkit, assembled together here - 380007.

All Overols Gasket and oil seal repair kits for Honda 4-speed automatic transmissions are assembled here - 380002.

– Repair kit for gaskets and seals for M4TAMDMA (all-wheel drive) and MDLA (front) 1997-2001 - No. 380002A. ( S4XA / M4TA / MDMA / S4TA / MDLA / SKWA ) - the most popular in overhaul CR-V.

A related box for this family was also installed on Acura Integra in the same years S4XA (96-99) and SKWA (2000-02). The kit includes all the necessary and obligatory gaskets and seals for the bulkhead.

- Machines are less common in repair CR-V the same production series from 2002-04 - MRVA for all-wheel drive and MCVA - for front-wheel drive.

- Repair kit for gaskets and seals - No. 380002C. ( MRMA/MCVA/ MRVA/MKZA/MKYA/ GPPA/GPLA/ MZJA/MZHA/ BZJA/BCLA/MCLA/ BZKA/MZKA/BZNA/MNZA/ MCTA/MRCA/BZHA ). More often they order Overol from Precision.

CR-V 02-04 MRVA/MCVA. This kit is also suitable for related Honda Element BZKA-MZKA (2WD + 4WD) automatic machines that were produced before 2006.

– For Honda Civic Gasket and oil seal repair kit – No. 380002B .

It is matched for all releases from 97-98 (B4RA, B46A, M4RA), 99-2000 (BDRA, S4RA) and 2001-05 (BMXA, SLXA).

– Separate Gasket and Seal Repair Kit for 4AT Accord and Acura 2.3 CL – # 380002D . (suitable for 98-02 Accord assault rifles, both American assembly - BAXA, and Japanese - MAXA. Also used for bulkheading related Acura B6VA (98-99) and Prelude M6HA assault rifles from 1997-2001).

For earlier versions of automatic machines up to 97 years (MP1A, MPJA/ A6VA/ AOYA/ BOYA/ MPOA/ MPXA/ MPWA/ PX4B/ PX4B/ APX4/ APXA/ MP1A) Accord (MPZA. ), Prelude (MP1A. ) and Acura 2.2CL (A6VA) Gasket and seal repair kit - # 380002E .

Repair kit for gaskets and seals No. 380002G ( MPZA, B7VA, B7XA, M7ZA, B7YA, B7TA ) is completed for powerful boxes of Acura 3.0 CL M7ZA (96-99). Also fits Accord V6 (B7XA 98-02) and Odyssey 99-2001 with B7YAB7TA boxes.

More rare Overols for the rest of the 4-speed Honda / Acura automatics, look under the number (see the name of the automatic transmission in the description of the kit) - 380002.

Friction selection

At each overhaul, the clutch frictions are changed with a set of 380003 or individually - 380100 and steel discs with the whole set - 380004.

The most complete Clutch and Steel Disc Repair Kit with Gasket Kit - Masterkit № 380007 .

Honda clutches are unified at the same time (2-3 popular types are used in most clutch packs and on most machines - on right) and very individual (a huge number of small-batch automatic transmission modifications with a couple of their own, different clutches).

Therefore, all clutch numbers are collected under one number ( 380100 - press the number on the orange background to find your clutch) and are selected according to three parameters: diameter (outer), thickness and number of teeth.

Honda clutches live for a very long time, but after working out a huge resource for friction clutches (over 300 tkm) or saturated with burnt oil, the manufacturer recommends replacing them with the whole set, even if, upon external examination, the old linings do not look completely worn out. They absorbed burnt oil and significantly reduced their adhesion and heat transfer characteristics, which leads to uncomfortable shocks when switching and unnecessary dynamic loads on worn gearbox components. Clutch wear is usually caused by oil starvation, so it is recommended that all age Hondas monitor the level and quality of the oil.

Base Honda Clutch #380100BD - Features: [38Tx1.9x116x81.8] where description means:

1.9 mm - thickness,

116 mm external diameter clutch, and

81.8 mm interior return diameter steel disk.

Replace worn switching electroregulator solenoids: - No. 380423A (line pressure)

Clutch lock solenoid 380425B and also popular in replacement :

– Clutch lock solenoid # 380425D .

Solenoids have a replaceable anodized hydraulic plate element in their design, which is primarily subject to wear. Changes after runs for 200 tkm.Working in dirty and overheated oil reduces its resource significantly.

– It is worth checking the condition of the most popular replacement bearings highlighted in the Catalog ( left ) in orange.

– Change the developed valve body regulators ( 380924 ).

To identify the necessary spare parts for repair - use the appropriate page of the online store (M4TA - for example) section "Repair kits". For an exact order, you will need the VIN code of the car.

The current price and availability can be found by clicking on the part number.

Hello! I decided to change the automatic transmission, I have a right-hand drive in 1997, I called Vladivostok to order, they told me that I most likely have a S4TA cable. But just in case, I crawled under the air filter, there is a marking on the box M4TA-3015384. I called Vladivostok again and they told me that I have an electronic box and it will cost 3 times more and they don’t have such at all, only S4TA cable ones. I called Omsk for analysis, they told me that the M4TA is also cable-operated and that it is possible to replace the M4TA with the S4TA, but if both are cable-operated and in the numbers of both automatic transmissions, the first digit will be the same, supposedly it indicates the drive of some kind of valve : 1-cable, 3-electronic. How can one still distinguish a cable M4TA from an electronic one and can a cable M4TA be replaced with a cable S4TA?

M4TA. This box has an SDMA “twin”, but it was installed on American market cars. M4TA was installed on cars up to and including model year 98, then MDMA was installed. There are machines in which MDMA was installed instead of M4TA. True, the D3 mode will cease to exist as a result of such a replacement, but it drives without any problems. So about the incompatibility of M4TA - this is a complete rut. It is easier to find the cable S4TA mentioned above.

If you initially have an electronic one, then this question is not relevant at all.

In general, instead of S4TA, you can install M4TA, MDTA without problems, but vice versa!

Thanks for the comments. Tell me all the same, how to distinguish a cable M4TA from an electronic one? Where to look? if possible with a link to the photo. otherwise the sellers ask me what kind of M4TA I have, but I don’t know stupidly.

and is it possible to replace the cable M4TA with the cable S4TA

The letters are followed by a number, for example M4TA-1. , or M4TA-3. . It's the same with S4TA. So, this figure indicates the valve drive: 1-cable, 3-electronic.

If you look at the machine mounted on the engine, then in front, under the mount of the left lower pillow, either a cable should go or there should be a connector.

Tom079: and is it possible to replace the cable M4TA with a cable S4TA #

Messier: Tom079: and is it possible to replace the cable M4TA with the cable S4TA # #
Messier: Can. #

I do not know . If the car is 4WD, then definitely NOT. If 2WD - then in principle it is possible. But there may be surprises with the moment of gear shifting. Or “kick” will be slightly or “catch up”. From personal experience.

In general, it turns out that I still have an electronic box, firstly the number M4TA-3015384 and secondly, there is one cable on the throttle and not two. Pichal.

Are there electronic S4TAs that will suit me? Or is it necessary either to look for the same M4TA or SDMA?

to Tom079: And what's the problem? There is no possibility to purchase M4TA electronic?

to vladm: In Vladik they found 1 box for 27 rubles in two more places, Krasnoyarsk and Omsk, they didn’t have any electronic boxes at all. In Omsk it cost 35 rubles. And for the S4TA cable they asked for only 12, the difference is noticeable.

Enough ? I think there is no point in playing tricks - you need to take your own and put it on. Especially since you have 4WD!

to vladm: Give me some contacts.

to Tom079: Chelyabinsk

Box M4TA (without cable, so-called electronic) changes to S4TA (with cable) tested on CR-V 1998, B20B, M4TA-3, I will provide a written report in the near future.

If possible, make a report with a photo, add topic B FAQ.

Andrez82: Box M4TA (without cable, so-called electronic) changes to S4TA (with cable) tested on CR-V 1998, B20B, M4TA-3, 4WD I will provide a written report soon.

Everything was as usual, I drove to the garage without any problems, left it in front of the garage for two hours, then turned on D4, and the car rolled downhill as if in neutral.

The search for the M4TA-3 assault rifle at the Irkutsk auto-disassembly did not give a result, so it was decided to try to install the S4TA-1. This box was purchased for 10,000 rubles. Also found was a bracket for attaching the automatic transmission cable and a two-ribbed throttle lever.

Unfortunately I didn't take a photo of the replacement.

I will not describe the dismantling of the existing automatic transmission, everything is simple there.

When installing a new automatic transmission, the crankshaft oil seal, the torque converter oil seal, and two drive shaft oil seals were replaced along the way.

After installing the new box, we connect all the electrical connectors, except for the linear solenoid connector, because. on S4TA-1 it does not exist and the main shaft connector does not reach the sensor, because this sensor is located not next to the linear solenoid, but next to the counter shaft solenoid. In order not to spoil the wires, the corresponding mating connectors were found during the disassembly and an extension cord was made. So that there would be no error code for the linear solenoid, it was removed from the old box, wrapped in polyethylene, fixed in a convenient place (so that it would not hang on the wire) and the connector was simply connected to it.

There are two empty threaded holes on the throttle body, an automatic transmission cable bracket is attached to them and the automatic transmission cable jacket is fixed accordingly, the throttle lever changes to a two-strand to which the gas cable and automatic transmission cable cling.

It is possible that after turning on the ignition, D4 will flash (linear solenoid error), then it is necessary to erase the error memory.

The native control unit took the surrogate box for its own. Although there were talks that it is necessary to install a control unit from the automatic transmission S4TA.

You will also have to adjust the automatic transmission cable a little.

The work was carried out in a simple garage alone.