Automatic transmission m4ta DIY repair

An automatic transmission is an expensive component. There is no point in delaying the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are expensive. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for the details. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that repairing automatic transmissions with their own hands is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of the workshop masters cannot be called modest, and the professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists can decide to fix the problem on their own.

Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes according to the following scheme:

• diagnostics,
• dismantling the box,
• disassembly of the box,
• complete set with spare parts,
• assembly (installation),
• installation on a car,
• diagnostics after repair.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, time to work, patience, and perseverance.

All automatic transmissions are arranged the same, but there are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their renovation has some differences.

It is important to notice transmission problems at the earliest possible stage. Then, with the correct diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often these are extraneous sounds when changing gears or during robotic transmission. It can be crunching, clicks. An unpleasant smell also speaks of problems. It can appear during long-term or short-term operation of the box. It is worse if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.

Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Red spots will indicate an oil leak from the transmission. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No burning smells or muddy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.

Automatic transmission malfunctions often arise due to improper operation. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or overheating. For this reason, the gears wear out, the machine can jerk when changing gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks while driving indicate overheating of the oil and the appearance of problems in the valve body.

Aggressive driving with hard acceleration and braking will erase details. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and has a bad effect on its general condition.

All faults are divided into two subgroups. They can occur in

• electronic control system,
• mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.

If a malfunction occurs, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it goes to third speed and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the display.

If problems have arisen with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.

In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to consult a specialist. Determine what the problem is at the service station, and take care of the repair yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time on diagnostics. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.

General scheme of diagnostic procedures:

• check the oil,
• check the operation of the engine at idle speed, the connection points of the wiring and cables,
• determine the error codes of the operation of the control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
• check the box on a car without movement,
• check the automatic transmission in motion,
• check the pressure inside the control system.

If the cause of the malfunctions is electronics problems, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the transmission ratio and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:

• input sensors,
• electronic control unit,
• executive devices of the control system,
• violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring connections.

The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If some parameters are out of order, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decrypt such numbers using a special scanner.

These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conventionally divided into three subgroups:

1. Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
2. Defective transformer. This includes:
   • breaks in the splines of the wires,
   • mechanical destruction of the blades,
   • overrunning clutch,
   • wear of the main blocking clutch,
   • depressurization of the piston oil seal.
   • Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.

If the diagnostics were successful and you cannot do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of the automatic transmission repair.

You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to perform this procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It will not be superfluous to invite several physically strong guys to help you move the removed box. Its weight is beyond the strength of even a very strong person. Further action plan:

1. disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
2. unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
3. remove and move the gearbox;
4. assess the scale of the breakdown and start repairing.

Before removing the gearbox, the oil does not need to be drained from it. However, then do not forget to substitute the container in the place where the oil supply pipes are attached when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.

All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines on the input shaft of the diaphragm.

It is better to do automatic transmission repair with your own hands, having it at hand proprietary manual and a printed diagram of the gearbox. First you need to inspect all the systems that serve the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we proceed to the repair. For this:

1. We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
2. We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn out parts.
3. Remove the inhibitor block and sump. We clean out the dirt inside. It looks like metal magnetic shavings.
4. We remove the wiring of the ring from the plug and push them inside the plug.
5. Remove the valve body, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the valve body.
6. We check the clutches, gears and planetary gears for wear. We will replace it if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
7. We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its term. We use the manual so as not to swap parts.
8. We take out the valves and springs. We wash the valves. Their sticking can be the reason for incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. Replace the accumulator springs if they are broken.
9. Putting everything back into place. It is important not to confuse anything!
10. We replace rings and friction bolts.
11. We check the gear shift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.

Assembly takes place upside-down.

There are some points that it is advisable to take into account when repairing. Often a transmission problem is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely.The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special stopper does not allow you to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. Assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten here.

If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. During these works, the following recommendations should be adhered to:

• When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the diaphragm is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
• The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of transmission oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and put on the input shaft. You need to achieve a secure connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. The crankcases must abut completely.
• Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps along the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the lines, the correctness of the connections is checked.
• At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.

Beginning the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If at least one is missing, the automatic transmission cannot be attached.

Automatic transmission repair and diagnostics do it yourself - not an easy but feasible task. Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice motorists believe that repairing it at home is impossible. This is not true. But before deciding to carry out such important work at home, you need to weigh all your possibilities. Then you will not be in for unpleasant surprises during the renovation.

Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day

CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts

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AGGREGATKA is a federal network of technical centers, the main specialization of which is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including robotic transmissions with double clutch, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions

AGGREGATKA is a federal network of technical centers, the main specialization of which is the repair and maintenance of automatic transmissions of all types, including robotic transmissions with double clutch, CVT transmissions and classic hydromechanical automatic transmissions

What can be done with the transmission case.

You can change the support bearings of the shafts, for this you need to move the circlip apart and carefully work with heads of large diameters and a hammer.

The idle gear ZX is also fixed there. There is also an auxiliary shaft with a gear and a reduced friction clutch. It is used when the selector is in “1” - you will notice that only in this position in the first gear there is engine braking.
In general, it can be disassembled - just squeeze the shaft inside the box, and move the gear, bearings and friction clutch to the side. There is no need to unscrew the nut (there is one).Wash everything, replace the oil seals on the shaft, disassemble and wash the friction clutch, change the rubber bands and discs on it. I did, since the repair kit had steel discs and rubber bands for this shaft. But in general, you can leave it alone. When reassembling, according to the manual, you need to put a new ATP guide cap (although the old one was like nothing).

On cable-operated boxes, you can change the small shaft seal of that same cable. Change the oil seal of the right inner CV joint.
That's it, the main cavity of the box has opened.

Remove the Reverse gear bushing, needle bearing and ZX gear from the output shaft. Unscrew the bolt from the ZX shift fork, remove the fork together with the selector ring. Now pull out both shaft assemblies together.

Further, the differential is removed in assembly

Change the seals of the left inner CV joint, input shaft in the torque converter housing.
Be careful when removing oil seals! Do not damage the case, it is aluminum, easily wrinkled and scratched. Rough scratches can be wiped off with # 600 sandpaper soaked in ATF for half an hour. Lubricate new oil seals with ATF. I used a hammer during installation - gently tapping on the oil seal in a circle, the most tedious thing is to insert the first millimeters with the whole circle.
There is also a control shaft oil seal (which transfers mode switching from the selector cable to the manual valve of the box). This oil seal can be changed without any problems.

Remove the filter (it can be in principle and immediately removed as the case was opened
It looks like it is clean, but it was worth washing it like dirt like from a boot ...
I will not buy a new one, I washed myself completely, and behind the walls too.
Turned on the bottom of the flashlight for clearance

in general, many recommend changing it, if there was dirt in the trash on it, I probably would have done so!
Inspecting the shaft

they should not influence the work, but where did such crap come from? I looked at the pictures of who repaired how - the same badass ... well, they do not look like the factory ones!
Next, we see the oil seals on the shaft

And watch where they go
to be continued in the following.

What can be done with the transmission case.

You can change the support bearings of the shafts, for this you need to move the circlip apart and carefully work with heads of large diameters and a hammer.

The idle gear ZX is also fixed there. There is also an auxiliary shaft with a gear and a reduced friction clutch. It is used when the selector is in “1” - you will notice that only in this position in the first gear there is engine braking.
In general, it can be disassembled - just squeeze the shaft inside the box, and move the gear, bearings and friction clutch to the side. There is no need to unscrew the nut (there is one). Wash everything, replace the oil seals on the shaft, disassemble and wash the friction clutch, change the rubber bands and discs on it. I did, since the repair kit had steel discs and rubber bands for this shaft. But in general, you can leave it alone. When reassembling, according to the manual, you need to put a new ATP guide cap (although the old one was like nothing).

On cable-operated boxes, you can change the small shaft seal of that same cable. Change the oil seal of the right inner CV joint.
That's it, the main cavity of the box has opened.

Attention! Car service network of favorable prices. Camber check is FREE! No queues! Repair on the same day!

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An automatic gearbox is the most expensive part of a car to repair, which is why, when the first signs of a problem appear, it is necessary to immediately eliminate the defect. If this is not done on time, then in the future it can turn into more serious problems. And if you contact a specialized service, then repairs there can be very expensive. Motorists, having studied the spare parts market, come to one conclusion - that doing it yourself is a pretty good idea, since you can save a lot.

We have prepared this article specifically for those who have never encountered problems in the gearbox, as well as if you are planning to repair it on your own.We will tell you in detail, using an example, how to repair an automatic transmission srv rd1 with your own hands. We will also share with you some interesting knowledge, in the future they will help you extend the life of your car.

In the 21st century, absolutely all cars moving on highways are insured; in the event of a malfunction, most of the costs can be covered. But the insurance also specifies the conditions that repair and maintenance can be carried out only in special auto repair shops. Otherwise, if suddenly the repairs were carried out in other places or on their own, then all guarantees will be lost.

And if you still decide to do the repair yourself, then you should be aware that if any parts of the car are disassembled, no one will pay you the damage caused to it.

It is strictly forbidden to move the car by towing, especially if there is an excess of oil in the box. Do not forget to change the oil in the car - it is recommended to do this every 20 thousand kilometers. This, of course, is an individual indicator and it depends on many other factors, but it definitely needs to be changed more often than once a year. Too much oil in the box is also not good, because it will start to foam and will not dissipate heat well from the transmission. Therefore, it is advisable to check the oil whenever you are especially going on a long trip.

The whole process takes place according to the following plan:

Removing the box from the case.

New complete set with spare parts.

The structure of all ACKP is the same, and therefore it will not present difficulties. The differences are only in the transmission control device, it can be either electronic or hydraulic. And therefore, the repair process will have minor differences.

Most of all transmission problems arise from improper use of the vehicle. Now we will share with you the main factors that further lead to the disruption of the entire transmission:

Insufficient or excessive oil level, because of this, the gears wear out quickly and jerks and breakdowns may occur when shifting;

Towing, we have already talked about this, and you need to remember that you should not tow the car;

Sharp braking and acceleration also lead to rapid wear of parts;

The gear knob is stuck - find out more about how the automatic transmission is being repaired

It is desirable to detect violations in the operation of the gearbox at the very first stages, so you do not have to completely go through the gearbox and get very wasted. There are plenty of signs of problems in the box, but we will tell you the most common ones:

Distinctive sounds when shifting gears, there may also be an extraneous odor;

If the gear does not engage at all, this is a sign of a serious malfunction, and emergency repairs will need to be done;

You should always check the surface under the car for any stains. If they are found, then this indicates a leak, and this problem will need to be addressed.

Repair of this car can be done both by specialists and by hand. As with all cars, in order to disassemble the box, you need to remove it. To do this, you need to disconnect the subframe part, disassemble the lower stabilizers. The repair process consists in disassembling the box, identifying problems and eliminating them, and then all this work is done in the reverse order. Do not forget to check the operation of the torque converter, and the entire integrity of its device. Because parts can be worn out there, and this is not good.

Next, you should check the condition of the friction sections, they can fail very often, mainly due to sudden braking. After all the steps have been completed, you need to mount the box back into the car.First of all, all the attachments, and then the torque converter, and at the end, fix the transfer case. It should be noted that such work without fail requires at least minimal knowledge in the structure of the car. You can repair a Honda CR-V car with your own hands, but still there are cases that you will have to contact a professional at a service station.

The box is a very complex mechanism that must be looked after, otherwise it can lead to negative consequences. If you take care of the car correctly, then the box repair may not be necessary even after 250 thousand kilometers. Therefore, try to drive correctly and not rape your car. An example of good serviceability is Japanese cars from the 1980s. Some of them have already covered about a million thousand kilometers. Do not forget about your car, and then it will serve you for many years without major repairs.

We hope that our article was useful for you, and you could figure out how to properly repair the automatic transmission "Honda" SRV RD-1 with your own hands. You should not wait for the most terrible signal from your car so that you do not have to change it. Pay attention even on small signs, and then the car will thank you with a long service life. We wish you every success!

all 4-stage Boxes have a related design - M4TA / S4TA / MDMA / MDLA / S4XA, SKWA

MRVA / MCVA ELEMENT BZKA / MZKA

MP1A, MPJA / A6VA / AOYA / BOYA / MPOA / MPXA / MPWA

HONDA machines stand apart from other automatic transmission manufacturers.

Honda gearboxes are fundamentally different from the rest of the world in particular in that they do not use planetary gears. They are much simpler structurally, more massive and, as a result, much more reliable. They come for repairs almost like manual gearboxes - rarely and with very high mileage. But Honda's automatic machines, like the rest of the world, have “weak points” of electronic control of switching: Friction discs, solenoids, electromechanical valves and a valve body.

Honda gave names to its numerous modifications haphazardly, using all letters (MDLA), as on registration numbers of cars. Together with letters, numbers began to be used (like the bestseller - M4TA). The only useful regularity that can be traced is that for all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive cars, the modification usually has the same different letters # 3: MDMA (four-wheel drive) and MDLA (front). Also, sometimes such letter replacements are observed in automatic machines for the same car model, but produced at different factories (like, for example, the popular Accord box of 98: American assembly - BAXA, Japanese - MAXA)

On which Honda cars these most popular 4 mortars are installed - see the table on the left. We meet this class of 4AT machines most often on: Civic, Accord, CR-V, Odyssey, Prelude, Element and on Akurovsky 2.2CL - 3.5 RL, Integra, Legend, NSX.

The most popular family of 4-speed 3-shaft transmissions is M4TA (MDMA / MRVA / MDLA) - Honda (CR-V) with an engine from 2 to 2.4 liters from 1997-2001. Honda machines are distinguished by their reliability and unpretentiousness. Therefore, some owners forget to monitor the quality of the oil and change it on time along with the filter. This leads to contamination of the valve body valves and solenoids, oil starvation and accelerated wear of O-rings, clutches and bushings. Normal mileage before the first overhaul is 300-400 tkm.

Find repair kits

In Honda's unkillable machines, the first one usually requires repair (replacement of consumables) is a torque converter - 380001.

A typical bulkhead overhaul begins in old age with an oil change and a metal mesh filter - M4TA 96-98 filter. - No. 380010.

With the change in the valve body, the filter mount has changed for subsequent modifications 99-2001 (Civic / CRV) - 380010AB.

For age machines, the craftsmen install an external magnetic fine filter - 100019,

The in-line external fine filter helps to keep the oil clear and removes wear on friction units.This is recommended for all machines that have a standard filter with a metal mesh. External filter - 100019 on age machines worth checking change every year or every 10 tkm. More details - here .

Since 2002, using synthetic oils for its boxes, Honda has switched to plastic filters with a felt membrane (MRMA / MRVA / MCTA) - 380010C.

For the overhaul of this family of boxes with a filter, they often order a Complete Repair Kit for gaskets and oil seals with clutches and steel discs - Masterkit, collected together here - 380007.

All Overols

- Repair kit for gaskets and seals for M4TAMDMA (four-wheel drive) and MDLA (front) 1997-2001 - No. 380002A. (S4XA / M4TA / MDMA / S4TA / MDLA / SKWA) - the most popular overhaul CR-V.

A related box for this family was installed on Acura Integra in the same years S4XA (96-99) and SKWA (2000-02). The kit includes all gaskets and gaskets necessary and obligatory for the bulkhead.

- Less often found in repair machines CR-V of the same issue series from 2002-04 - MRVA for all-wheel drive and MCVA - for front-wheel drive.

- Repair kit for gaskets and seals - No. 380002C. (MRMA / MCVA / MRVA / MKZA / MKYA / GPPA / GPLA / MZJA / MZHA / BZJA / BCLA / MCLA / BZKA / MZKA / BZNA / MNZA / MCTA / MRCA / BZHA). More often they order Overol from Prescription.

CR-V 02-04 MRVA / MCVA. This kit is also suitable for related automata Honda Element BZKA-MZKA (2WD + 4WD) which were produced before 2006.

- For Honda Civic Repair Kit for gaskets and seals - No. 380002B.

It is matched for all editions from 97-98 (B4RA, B46A, M4RA), 99-2000 (BDRA, S4RA) and 2001-05 (BMXA, SLXA).

- Separate Repair Kit for gaskets and seals for 4AT Accord and Acura 2.3 CL - # 380002D. (suitable for automatic machines of the Accord 98-02, both American assembly - BAXA, and Japanese - MAXA. It is also used for the bulkhead of related automatic machines Acura B6VA (98-99) and Prelude M6HA from 1997-2001).

For earlier versions of machines up to 97 years (MP1A, MPJA / A6VA / AOYA / BOYA / MPOA / MPXA / MPWA / PX4B / PX4B / APX4 / APXA / MP1A) Accord (MPZA.), Prelude (MP1A.) And Acura 2.2CL (A6VA) selected Repair kit for gaskets and seals - # 380002E.

Repair kit for gaskets and seals No. 380002G (MPZA, B7VA, B7XA, M7ZA, B7YA, B7TA) is completed for powerful boxes Acura 3.0 CL M7ZA (96-99). Also fits Accord V6 (B7XA 98-02) and Odyssey 99-2001 with B7YAB7TA boxes.

More rare Overols for the rest of the 4-speed Honda / Acura automatic gearboxes, search under the number (see the name of the automatic transmission in the description of the kit) - 380002.

Selection of clutches

With each overhaul, the clutch clutches are changed with a set 380003 or separately - 380100 and steel discs with the whole set - 380004.

The most complete repair kit for clutches and steel discs with a spacer set - Masterkit № 380007 .

Honda's clutches are simultaneously unified (2-3 popular types are used in most clutch packages and on most machines - on right) and are very individual (a huge variety of modifications of the automatic transmission of a small batch with a couple of their own, differing clutches).

Therefore, all clutch numbers are collected under one number (380100 - press the number on the orange background to find your clutch) and are selected according to three parameters: diameter (outer), thickness and number of teeth.

Honda clutches live for a very long time, but after the development of a huge resource for the clutches (over 300 tkm) or soaked in burnt oil, the manufacturer recommends replacing them with the whole set, even if, upon external examination, the old linings look not yet completely worn out. They have absorbed burnt oil and significantly reduced their grip and heat transfer characteristics, which leads to uncomfortable jerks when shifting and unnecessary dynamic loads on worn gearbox components. Friction clutch wear is usually caused by oil starvation, so it is recommended that all age Honda keep track of the oil level and quality.

Basic Honda clutch No. 380100BD - has characteristics: [38Tx1,9x116x81,8] where the description means:

1.9 mm - thickness,

116 mm external diameter clutch, and

81.8 mm interior diameter of the counter steel disk.

Change worn out switching solenoids-electric regulators: - No. 380423A (line pressure)

Clutch lock solenoid 380425B and also popular in replacement:

- clutch lock solenoid # 380425D.

Solenoids have in their design a replaceable anodized hydraulic plate element, which is primarily subject to wear. Changes after runs for 200 tkm.Working in dirty and overheated oil reduces its resource significantly.

- It is worth checking the condition of the most popular bearings in replacement, highlighted in the Catalog ( left ) in orange.

- Change the developed valve body regulators (380924).

To identify the necessary spare parts for repair - use the corresponding page of the online store (M4TA - for example) the "Repair kits" section. For the exact order you need the VIN code of the car.

The current price and availability can be found by clicking on the part number.

Hello! I decided to change the automatic transmission, I have a right-hand drive. 1997 called Vladivostok to order, they told me that most likely I had an S4TA cable. But, just in case, I climbed under the air filter there is a marking on the box M4TA-3015384. I called Vladivostok again and they told me that I have an electronic box and it will cost 3 times more and they don’t have any of them at all. They only have S4TA cable. I called Omsk for parsing, they told me that M4TAs are also cabled and that it is possible to replace M4TA with S4TA, but if it is established that both are cabled and in the numbers of both automatic transmissions, the first digit will be the same, supposedly it denotes the drive of some valve : 1-cable, 3-electronic. How can one still distinguish cable M4TA from electronic one and is it possible to replace cable M4TA with cable S4TA?

М4ТА. This box has a “twin” SDMA, but it was put on the cars of the American market. М4ТА was installed on cars up to model year 98 inclusive, then MDMA was installed. There are machines that had MDMA instead of M4TA. True, the D3 mode will cease to exist as a result of such a replacement, but it drives without any problems. So what about the incompatibility of M4TA is a complete rut. It is easier to find the cable S4TA mentioned above.

If you initially have an electronic one, then this question is generally inappropriate.

In general, instead of S4TA, you can put M4TA, MDTA without problems, but the opposite is not possible!

Thanks for the comments. Tell me all the same how to distinguish a cable M4TA from an electronic one? Where to look? if possible with reference to the photo. otherwise the sellers ask me what kind of M4TA I have, but I stupidly don't know.

and is it possible to replace the cable M4TA with the cable S4TA

The letters are followed by a number, for example M4TA-1. , or M4TA-3. ... It's the same with S4TA. So, this number denotes the valve drive: 1-cable, 3-electronic.

If you look at the machine installed on the engine, then either a cable or a connector should go in front under the mount of the lower left cushion.

Tom079: and is it possible to replace the cable M4TA with the cable S4TA #

Messir: Tom079: and can the cable M4TA be replaced with the cable S4TA # #
Messir: Can. #

I do not know . If the car is 4WD, then definitely NOT. If 2WD - then in principle it is possible. But there can be surprises with the moment of gear shifting. Either it will "punch" slightly or "catch up". From personal experience.

In general, it turns out that I have everything, so there is an electronic box in the first number of M4TA-3015384 and secondly, there is one cable on the throttle, not two. Pichal.

And there are electronic S4TA this will suit me? Or is it necessary to either look for the same M4TA or SDMA?

to Tom079: What's the problem? No way to purchase M4TA e-mail?

to vlad m: In Vladik they found 1 box for 27 rubles in two more places in Krasnoyarsk and Omsk called they have no electronic boxes at all. In Omsk it was 35 rubles. And for the S4TA cable they asked for only 12, the difference is noticeable.

Enough ? I think there is no point in kulibnich - you need to take your own and put on. Moreover, you have a 4WD!

to vlad m: Give me some contacts.

to Tom079: Chelyabinsk

M4TA box (without cable, so-called electronic) changes to S4TA (with cable) tested on CR-V 1998 onwards, B20B, M4TA-3, I will provide a written report in the near future.

If possible with a photo report, add topic B FAQ.

Andrez82: M4TA box (without cable, so-called electronic) changes to S4TA (with cable) tested on CR-V 1998 onwards, B20B, M4TA-3, 4WD I will provide a written report in the near future.

Everything was as usual, I drove to the garage without any problems, left it in front of the garage for two hours, then started up and turned on the D4, and the car rolled downhill as if in neutral.

The search for the M4TA-3 submachine gun at the auto-dismantling yard of Irkutsk did not give any result, so it was decided to try to install the S4TA-1. This box was purchased for 10,000 rubles. A bracket was also found for attaching the automatic transmission cable and a two-channel throttle lever.

Unfortunately, I did not take a photo of the replacement.

I will not describe the dismantling of the existing automatic transmission, everything is simple there.

When installing the new automatic transmission, the crankshaft oil seal, the torque converter oil seal, and two drive shaft oil seals were replaced along the way.

After installing the new box, we connect all electrical connectors, except for the linear solenoid connector, because on S4TA-1 it does not exist and the main shaft connector does not reach the sensor, because this sensor is not located next to the linear solenoid, but next to the counter shaft solenoid. In order not to spoil the wires, the corresponding mating connectors were found during disassembly and an extension cord was made. So that there was no error code for the linear solenoid, it was removed from the old box, wrapped in polyethylene, fixed in a convenient place (so that it would not dangle on the wire) and the connector was simply connected to it.

On the throttle body there are two empty threaded holes to which the automatic transmission cable bracket is attached and the automatic transmission cable jacket is fixed, respectively, the throttle lever changes to a two-strand to which the throttle cable and the automatic transmission cable cling.

Perhaps after turning on the ignition, D4 will flash (linear solenoid error), then it is necessary to erase the error memory.

The native control unit took the surrogate box for its own. Although there was talk that it was necessary to install the control unit from the S4TA automatic transmission.

You will also have to adjust the automatic transmission cable a little.

The work was done in a simple garage alone.