Automatic transmission v4a51 DIY repair

Mitsubishi automatic transmission R4A51 has four stages and is designed for use with Montero rear-wheel drive SUVs, whose engine capacity is 3 liters.

The first modification of this gearbox appeared in 1997. Subsequently, buyers were offered an upgraded version that received one extra gear. The difference between these gearboxes is in the output under the transfer case. In general, the parts are identical and interchangeable. A feature of this modification of the gearbox is the increased power of the oil pump, which is necessary for cooling and lubricating a large transmission. The transmission design itself is characterized by simplicity and a minimum of electrical sensors used. This increases reliability and simplifies repair work. The manufacturer recommends changing the oil and filter elements in the gearbox every 50,000 kilometers. Otherwise, there may be problems with the pump seal and solenoids. It should be noted that repair work with the valve body is characterized by increased complexity and has a rather high cost.

Automatic transmission R4A51 has established itself as a fairly reliable transmission, which, with proper maintenance and proper care, can be easily operated for many hundreds of kilometers. Due to common breakdowns, problems with the oil pump can be identified. Such breakdowns are explained by the design features of the oil pump, which, when using low-quality oil, quickly fails. In some cases, oil leaks from under failed gaskets may occur. Repair in this case consists in changing the oil and damaged rubberized gaskets.

4 speed R4A51 (V4A51) has been used since 1997 for rear-wheel drive Monteros with an engine of 3 liters or more. A couple of years later, they launched a 5-speed R5A51 (2000-2006) and all-wheel drive V5A51, which differs only in access to the razdatka, and not to the crankshaft. The label may be located under the hood, under the windshield, or embossed on the body.

The design is maximally unified with the front-wheel drive family F4A51 . Modified pump, drums, planets (except O.D.). The clutches in all packages are also identical.

Mitsubishi marking R4A51 (V4A51) decrypted as: R4.. - rear-wheel drive (rear), 4-speed automatic transmission.

V5. - four-wheel drive, based on the rear, 5-speed transmission (unlike W - when the all-wheel drive modification is based on the design of the front-wheel drive transmission)

. 51 - some manufacturer's numbers indicating the torque class that this automatic transmission is capable of transmitting. 51 is the Heavy-duty class (maximum torque).

This family of boxes competed with the Aisinovskaya rear-wheel drive 4th AW30-40LE. For the more expensive Pajero models of the Japanese market, an Aisin box was installed, and for less demanding customers in Southeast Asia and Latin America, they installed their own V4A51. This family of machines has become the “swan song” of Mitsubishi transmission workers. After the completion of work on it, the AT (automatic transmission) division of Mitsubishi joined the entire staff in Jatko.

This family of machines runs for a very long time and, with timely overhaul and observance of simple operating rules, it can pass its half a million and still remain quite a workhorse.

Pick up repair kits - press the button on the left.

Typically, budgetary scheduled overhauls of this family consist of cleaning the valve body, repairing the gas turbine engine - 363001 and changing the oil.This is quite enough for another 2-3 years, if the gaskets are intact and the oil pressure in the packages is within the norm according to the manuals.

Repair kits for bulkheads of 4 mortars and 5 mortars, consisting of gaskets and seals - No. 363002C (R4 / V4A51, R5 / V5A51) - are the same, unlike the front-wheel drive brothers. And together with filters, they are the most ordered spare part for the overhaul of these indestructible machines.

The bulkhead of the box usually includes, in addition to the Repair kit for gaskets and seals, also:

– Clutch Kit No. 363003 and

– Set of steel discs, No. 363004 . (These three kits add up to Masterkit 363007 .)

The rather long-lived torque converter lock-up clutch is also subject to wear. For some owners, it lives up to 200 tkm. Untimely replacement of the clutch leads to beating, damage to the pump seal, and later to the pump bushing 363034. Brake band 363020A is also ordered for overhauls.

The transmission itself is simple and fairly reliable, and only after 6-8 years of hard use can the following appear:

Typical diseases R4A51 (V4A51)

The filters are clogged with wear products and for automatic rear-wheel drive cars they have two modifications:

– from 1997 363010C – with shallow intake tray,

and 363010CC - with a deep sump (since 1999). The most popular.

Filters are disposable with a thin felt membrane. It is recommended to change with every oil change after 100 tkm runs. The family is unpretentious to oil, it is recommended to change the oil as it gets dirty.

Reverse clutch issue noted ( 363110B ). They crumble, clogging the hydroblock with paper. Therefore, it is recommended to change them to clutches from Borg Warner.

The clutches and steel discs of the first Overdrive package are the first to develop and burn. No. 363100 , 363120 .

In case of long-term operation with burnt oil, it is recommended to change all the clutches as a set and the brake band - No. 363020A.

- Leakage of the pump seal is most likely a wear marker for the clutch of the gas turbine engine and the pump bushing No. 363034.

If you start this wear, then you have to change all the bushings of the box as a set - 363030.

planetary gears

Under extreme and frequent loads close to the torque limit fails - Planetary gear set (O.D.) incoming 363580 on right Shatters the hull with the axis.

a little later, the Planetary Series Outgoing 363584 (4 sat.) finishes its resource. It breaks together with them - Sun gear - 363614.

Metal crumbles from age, high loads and dirty oil. An indicator of this is usually hedgehogs on pallet magnets. If, when changing the oil, the iron crumb in the sump is larger than 1 mm - a marker for sorting the machine.

- The valve body is washed during the bulkhead and runs until the end of the machine's life.

During the first overhaul, some electroregulator solenoids are subject to replacement, which work most intensively at each switch (EPC main pressure solenoid - 362431)

and operating in the dirtiest and hottest oil, the torque converter clutch lock-up solenoid V5A51 - No. 362421. Interchangeable with other solenoids on the hydraulic plate that last longer. (left)

– Freewheel separator (Low Sprag) - No. 363652A .

– Planetary gear set with output shaft for 5-speed automatic transmissions, (Direct Planet) V5A51 AWD - No. 363586.

From old age, oil contaminated with steel filings and overheating from the electrics, the input shaft sensors fail - Sensor Input - No. 363438.

and Output Speed ​​Sensor (VSS) - #363436 .

And also - Switch-switch (Inhibitor) MLPS - No. 363410.

Consumables of the first stage are

– 363342A . They break from old age and overheating, are included in the Repair Kit. But separately from Overol, whales are ordered due to dismantling errors: if you disassemble the “iron” of the box without first removing the valve body with these tubes, then the ends of both tubes break.

Included in Gasket and Seal Repair Kit - 363002.

The exact prices and availability of spare parts for automatic transmissions can be viewed at the bottom of the page or in the online store by clicking on the number of the required item highlighted in orange in the search field.

Automobile: Mitsubishi Pajero GLS, 2004, mileage 311,000 km.
Automatic transmission model: V4A51
Problem: the car does not go, arrived on a tow truck.

And again, we are limited by the number of acceptable photos in a post (only 20), but we will try to show as much as possible what is inside the box. So, let's begin…

- Tore the sun gear off the hub. This is a consequence of the wear of the upper and lower planetary gear sets.

— Axes of satellites have broken the body of a planetary gear set. Standard failure of this box. The gaps are clearly visible in the photo.

- The housing of the lower planetary gear set is also broken. Clearances are visible.

— Burnt package of friction and steel discs.

- Pieces of metal hit the reverse drum.

- Got the pump. Metal scuffs.

The cost of automatic transmission repair in this case.
Complex of repair works (removal of automatic transmission, installation, disassembly, troubleshooting, collection, installation of automatic transmission on a car) and repair of a torque converter - 26,000 rubles.
Parts required: gasket and seal kit, friction plate kit, steel plate kit, rear planetary gear set, front planetary gear set, sun gear hub, front planetary hub, sun gear, transmission oil. Total spare parts - 83180 rubles.

Automatic transmission repair warranty — 12 months without mileage limitation!

An automatic transmission is an expensive unit. It makes no sense to delay the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are an expensive pleasure. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for parts. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that do-it-yourself automatic transmission repair is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of service station masters cannot be called modest, and professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists may decide to troubleshoot on their own.

Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes as follows:

• diagnostics,
• dismantling the box
• box disassembly,
• spare parts kit,
• assembly (installation),
• car installation,
• diagnostics after repair.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, a certain amount of time to work, patience and perseverance.

All automatic transmissions are arranged in the same way, but There are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their repair has some differences.

It is important to notice problems in the transmission at an early stage. Then, with proper diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often, these are extraneous sounds when shifting gears or during transmission robots. It can be a crunch, clicks. An unpleasant smell also indicates problems. It can appear during long or short-term operation of the box. Worse, if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.

Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Spots of red color will indicate an oil leak from the gearbox. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No smells of burnt or cloudy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.

Automatic transmission malfunctions often occur due to improper use. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or its overheating. For this reason, gears wear out, the machine can jerk when switching gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks during movement indicate oil overheating and problems in the valve body.

Aggressive driving with hard accelerations and decelerations will cause details to be erased. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and badly affects its general condition.

All faults are divided into two subgroups.They may occur in

• electronic control system,
• mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.

In the event of a malfunction, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it becomes in third gear and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the board.

If problems arose with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission. Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.

In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to turn to specialists. Determine what the problem is in the service station, and repair it yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time diagnosing. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.

The general scheme for carrying out diagnostic procedures:

• check the oil
• check the operation of the engine at idle, the connection points of the electrical wiring and cables,
• determine the error codes for the operation of control units (CU) for the gearbox and engine,
• check the box on the car without movement,
• check the automatic transmission in motion,
• check the pressure inside the control system.

If the cause of the malfunctions is problems with the electronics, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the gear ratio of the gearbox and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:

• input sensors,
• electronic control unit,
• executive devices of the control system,
• violation of the integrity of electrical wiring connections.

The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If any parameters are out of the norm, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decipher such numbers using a special scanner.

These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conditionally divided into three subgroups:

1. Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
2. Transformer failure. This includes:
   • wire breaks,
   • mechanical destruction of the blades,
   • overrunning clutch,
   • wear of the main locking clutch,
   • depressurization of the piston seal.
   • Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.

If the diagnosis was successful and you can’t do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of automatic transmission repair.

You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to carry out such a procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It would be useful to invite a few physically strong guys to help move the removed box. Her weight is beyond the power of even a very strong person. Further action plan:

1. disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
2. unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
3. remove and move the gearbox;
4. assess the extent of the damage and proceed with the repair.

Before removing the gearbox, the oil from it can not be drained. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the attachment point of the oil supply pipes when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.

All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines of the diaphragm input shaft.

Do-it-yourself automatic transmission repair is best done with a company manual and a printed gearbox diagram. First you need to inspect all systems serving the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we start repairing. For this:

1. We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
2. We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn parts.
3. Remove the inhibitor block and pan. We clean the dirt inside. It looks like a metal magnetic chip.
4. Remove the ring wires from the plug and push them inside the plug.
5. Remove the hydraulic unit, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the hydraulic unit.
6. Clutches, gears and planetaries are checked for wear. We replace if there is such a need. All internal rubber bands must be changed!
7. We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its time. We use the manual so as not to change parts in places.
8. We take out the valves and springs. Flush valves. Their sticking can be the cause of incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. We change the accumulator springs if they are broken.
9. Putting everything back in place. It is important not to confuse anything!
10. Replace rings and friction bolts.
11. We check the gearshift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.

Assembly is in reverse order.

There are some points that it is desirable to take into account when repairing. Often the problem with the operation of the gearbox is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the hydraulic unit completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special limiter does not allow to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. When assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overdo it here.

If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. When doing this, the following guidelines should be followed:

• When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the membrane is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
• The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of gear oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and placed on the input shaft. It is necessary to achieve a reliable connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. Carters must adjoin completely.
• Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps over the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correct connections are checked.
• At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.

Starting the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the engine crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If there is not at least one, it is impossible to mount the automatic transmission.

Repair and diagnostics of automatic transmission with your own hands is not an easy, but feasible task. When choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice motorists believe that its repair at home is impossible. This is not true. But before you decide to carry out such responsible work at home, you need to weigh all your options. Then you will not expect unpleasant surprises during the repair.

Attention! A network of car services at favorable prices. Wheel alignment check FREE OF CHARGE! No queues! Same day repair!

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The topic has been discussed several hundred times in parts. But since the question is expensive, I would like to ask specifically.

I drive a 2000 Pajero 3 Arab Engine 6g72. Automatic under the hood v4a51 4636. According to the primer (according to vin japancats) I have v4a51-7-DCA1

After some operation, the back began to refuse (from the word at all) and the front began to turn on with jerks and switch with jerks. There are no errors, the speed lights are on as they should.

They opened it - oil with shavings (glistens), hedgehogs on magnets. I decided to put a contract, because I feel that for 17 years they did not stand on ceremony with this box. Yes, and in principle, in operation, shocks when turned on were initially.

The question arose - which box from v4a51_______ would suit me. In some branches they write that any with this index, they say, change only the bell, pan and bell.
But again, contractors come with a torque converter, I wanted everything to be changed. Will the new hydrik fit into the old bell.

Boxes v4a51_______ were installed starting from P2 and higher challengers. On dismantling, they give a tooth that P2 will not work. From diesels, other gear ratios speak.

Here is the question. While in mind there is v4a512dja. Is this suitable, and is the statement true that Everything does not care after V4A5**************************************** ** ( . 8#p2286371 ) and Boxes themselves are interchangeable. It is only necessary to rearrange the transitional elements and the pallet. ( . 8#p2260668 )

If so, what transitional elements, except for the pallet and the bell, need to be changed.

Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day

CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts

Well, here it is clear what the conversation is about.

#1 Message Seregasan » Mon Apr 01, 2013 12:24 am

#2 Message machucha » Mon Apr 01, 2013 12:31 am

#3 Message Seregasan » Mon Apr 01, 2013 2:12 am

#4 Message arsas » Mon Apr 01, 2013 2:43 am

#5 Message Seregasan » Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:03 am

#6 Message Seregasan » Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:22 am

#7 Message machucha » Mon Apr 01, 2013 4:06 am

4- and 5-speed gearboxes R4A51 (V4A51), V5A51 (R5A51) are a fairly reliable and robust mechanism with a long working life. The first problems can be caused due to an untimely oil change, so if you take this issue under reliable control, then problems with the automatic transmission will not appear soon.

On average, serious problems of the boxes R4A51 (V4A51), V5A51 (R5A51) make themselves felt after 6-8 years in the conditions of hard use of the car. They appear as follows:

Clogging of the valve body. In automatic transmissions R4A51 (V4A51), V5A51 (R5A51), the problem of a clogged valve body is one of the most common reasons for contacting specialists. Careful and attentive attitude to the vehicle will help to identify this problem at an early stage, which will solve the problem in a short time and without much money.

Malfunction of input and output shaft sensors. Of the electrics in gearboxes R4A51 (V4A51), V5A51 (R5A51), the input and output shaft sensors are the first to fail due to aging. Corrected by replacing with a new mechanism.

Clutch wear. Under the influence of long-term operation, the clutches of the gearbox begin to crumble, clogging the valve body with paper. You can fix this problem by installing new clutches.

Planetary gear wear. The gearboxes R4A51 (V4A51), V5A51 (R5A51) have two planetary gear sets: incoming and outgoing. With prolonged exposure, the incoming and then the outgoing planetary gear set fails first. The problem is “treated” by installing new planetary gear sets.

Accept a newcomer to Drom.ru))).

I took over the repair of the automatic transmission FN4A-EL (4F27E) from a friend in Premasi. I will post the report along the way here:.

Expert advice and recommendations are welcome 🙂

as far as I understand - human labor pens. we still need it. pour in! Respect and respect. You grabbed a repair, not even with our masya, but I look at your experience even from other people's cars more than ours. We are very glad to welcome you in our ranks.

As I understand it, if the symptoms are not 4 gears, then slowly vomit on L into boxing.

We order a cover and 4 rubber bands (sort of like) and for a start we change only the cover.

Do I understand correctly that the cover can be removed without lowering the engine on the jack? On the chapel (there at the bottom of the link) this is done. And we have?

And since this is the case, can you tell me the numbers of the cover and its glands (and quantity?)?

Just in case, the body number is CP8W-404953. 2002. 1.8 l.

I think to order, since such a thing. At the next oil change in the box, I will ask you to change it.

Added: Here I found a quote.What would you like to change from this? As I understand it, a cover with rubber bands on it, as well as clutches for 3-4 gears. Point by point. Thanks!

Wait kolupalsya on existentialism.

So, according to the catalog, 4 covers are offered, depending on the month-year. Under 2002, two covers are offered depending on the month. How would you be more specific? 🙂

With seals on the cover I understood:
FN11-19-762 (or -212 last digits) - 2 pcs., these are small oil seals;
FN01-19-655 - 2 pcs., - large oil seals.

Karbofos Thanks! Found my cover

Question to the topikstarter. Machine 2005. The mileage is small, apparently, therefore the cover is in order.

And what could cause piston rubber wear?

I also read a few well-known links here.

If your box is kicking back, and it happened recently, open it, look at the lid and change the rings FN01-19-655 (2 pcs). These are those that sit on the lid and are larger in diameter. We order the lid itself as needed (if there is wear under the rings or the edges of the lid axis).

If the box kicks forward 3-4 and it happened quite recently, similar, but FN11-19-762 (or -212 last digits) - 2 pcs. These are small rings on the lid. Similarly to the previous case, we order the cover itself as needed (if there is wear under the rings or the edges of the cover axis).

If we ride for a long time with such malfunctions, you need to remove the packages, look at the friction clutches, “pistons” (I don’t know how to call them correctly) and the brake band.

Attention, question (again :-).
What sealant to use for the lid? they don't write about it anywhere.

Automatic transmission Hyundai-Mitsubishi V5A51 (R5A51), V4A51 (R4A51)

4 speed R4A51 (V4A51) has been used since 1997 for rear-wheel drive Monteros with an engine of 3 liters or more. A couple of years later, they launched a 5-speed R5A51 (2000-2006) and all-wheel drive V5A51, which differs only in access to the razdatka, and not to the crankshaft. The plate may be located under the hood under the windshield or embossed on the body.

The whole design is similar to the front-wheel drive family F4A51. Modified pump, drums, planets (except O.D.). The clutches in all packages are also identical.

Mitsubishi marking R4A51 (V4A51) decrypted as: R4.. - rear-wheel drive (rear), 4-speed automatic transmission.

V5. - four-wheel drive, based on the rear, 5-speed transmission (unlike W - when the all-wheel drive modification is based on the design of the front-wheel drive transmission)

. 51 - some manufacturer's numbers indicating the torque class that this automatic transmission is capable of transmitting. 51 is the Heavy-duty class (maximum torque).

This family of boxes competed with the Aisinovskaya rear-wheel drive 4th AW30-40LE. For the more expensive Pajero models of the Japanese market, an Aisin box was installed, and for less demanding customers in Southeast Asia and Latin America, they installed their own V4A51. This family of machines has become the “swan song” of Mitsubishi. After the completion of work on it, the AT division of Mitsubishi joined the entire staff in Jatko.

Repair kits for 4 mortars and 5 mortars - No. 363002С (R4 / V4A51, R5 / V5A51) - the same, unlike the front-wheel drive brothers. And together with filters, they are the most ordered spare part for these indestructible boxes. Typically, repairs of this family consist of cleaning the valve body, repairing the gas turbine engine and changing the oil.

The standard bulkhead of the box usually includes, in addition to the Repair kit for gaskets and seals, also:

– Clutch kit No. 363003 and

– Set of steel discs, No. 363004. (These three kits add up to Masterkit 363007.)

The rather long-lived torque converter lock-up clutch is also subject to wear. For some owners, it lives up to 200 tkm. Untimely replacement of the clutch leads to beating, damage to the pump seal, and later to the pump bushing 363034.

The transmission itself is simple and fairly reliable, and only after 6-8 years of hard use can the following appear:

– (O.D.) incoming 363580 on right and - Output Planet 363584 left. The axis breaks their hulls.

a little later - Planetary series Outgoing 363584 (4 sat.).Together with them, he breaks - Sun gear - 363614.

Metal crumbles from age, high loads and dirty oil. An indicator of this is usually hedgehogs on pallet magnets. If, when changing the oil, the crumb is larger than 1 mm - a symptom of the need for repair.

- Freewheel Separator (Low Sprag) -#363652A.

– Planetary gear set with output shaft for 5-speed automatic transmissions, (Direct Planet) V5A51 AWD - No. 363586.

From old age, the electrics fail the input shaft sensors - Sensor Input - No. 363438.

and output shaft Output Speed ​​(VSS) - No. 363436.

And also - Switch-switch MLPS - No. 363410.

The filter for the box of rear-wheel drive cars has two modifications:

– from 1997 363010E – with shallow drip tray,

and 363010F - deep sump - since 1999. The most popular.

Filters are disposable with a thin felt membrane. It is recommended to change with every oil change after 100 tkm runs.

Reverse clutch issue noted (363110B). They crumble, clogging the hydroblock with paper. Therefore, it is recommended to change them to Borg Warner clutches.

The clutches and steel discs of the first Overdrive package are the first to develop and burn. No. 363100 , 363120.

In the case of long-term operation with burnt oil, it is recommended to change all the clutches as a set and the brake band - No. 363020A.

Consumables of the first stage are Cuff tubes between the hydraulic plate and the body - 363342A. They break from old age and overheating, are included in the Repair Kit. But separately from Overol, whales are ordered due to dismantling errors: if you disassemble the “iron” of the box without first removing the valve body with these tubes, then the ends of both tubes break.

Included in the Repair kit for gaskets and seals - 363002.

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Oh yes, all these masters do not like to read anything - it's a lot of debt and bukaf and read the manual when there is nothing to read or everything is already broken .... As part of the fact that they do not carry any guarantee for their work, I was personally convinced. And the address, can you tell me where the box was repaired, otherwise I already broke my head to whom to contact to repair the torque converter. And about plaintive groans, you filter it!

Please login or register. Did not receive your activation email? Automatic transmission with overdrive turned on - slips. Biysk Altai My car: The car starts moving and then the speed flies. Shariot Grandis - engine: Do a self-diagnosis, and it will be clear there. What gears on the automatic transmission work?

In general, it is very similar to the brake tape. Nikolai, 45 years old Location: Yes, everything is fine with it turned off. So all the same removal and repair? Torque converter lock-up system malfunction - Torque converter lock-up pressure supply system - Torque converter lock-up solenoid valve - Transmission ECU malfunction Where do I start? Forget the donut block, and you can ride without it, the ecu also works, without it there would be only 3rd gear.

I reset the errors, I drove a little without turning on the OD, an error occurred 54 The connector of the sensors or the speed sensors themselves, where can I see them and how to check?

Slippage of the extreme clutch thread who knows what repair kit and where to order? Downshift brake slip. Yes, they work out normally, I'll look at the wiring, open the computer. I just think if 4 is already slipping anyway, you can’t do without a replacement. Yes, the filter needs to be changed.