Automatic transmission v4a51 DIY repair

Mitsubishi automatic transmission R4A51 has four stages and is designed for use with rear-wheel drive Montero off-road vehicles with an engine capacity of 3 liters.

The first modification of this gearbox appeared in 1997. Subsequently, buyers were offered an upgraded version that received one additional gear. The difference between these gearboxes is the outlet for the transfer case. In general, the parts are identical and interchangeable. A feature of this modification of the gearbox is the increased power of the oil pump, which is necessary for cooling and lubricating large-sized transmissions. The design of the transmission itself is characterized by simplicity and a minimum of electrical sensors used. This increases reliability and simplifies repair work. The manufacturer recommends changing the oil and filter elements in the transmission every 50,000 kilometers. Otherwise, there may be problems with the pump seal and solenoids. It should be noted that repair work with the valve body is of increased complexity and has a rather high cost.

Automatic transmission R4A51 has established itself as a fairly reliable transmission that, with proper maintenance and proper care, can be easily operated for many hundreds of kilometers. Due to common breakdowns, problems with the oil pump can be distinguished. Such breakdowns are explained by the design features of the oil pump, which quickly breaks down when using low-quality oil. In some cases, oil leaks may appear from under the failed gaskets. Repair in this case consists in replacing the oil and damaged rubberized gaskets.

4-stage R4A51 (V4A51) used since 1997 for rear-wheel drive Monteros with an engine of 3 liters or more. A couple of years later, they launched a 5-speed R5A51 (2000-2006) and all-wheel drive V5A51, differing only in the output to the distributor, and not to the crankshaft. The decal can be located under the hood, under the windshield, or embossed on the body.

The design is maximally unified with the front-wheel drive family F4A51 ... Modified pump, drums, planets (except O.D.). The clutches in all packages are also identical.

Mitsubishi Marking R4A51 (V4A51) stands for: R4 .. - rear-wheel drive (rear), 4-speed automatic transmission.

V5... - four-wheel drive, based on the rear, 5-speed transmission (as opposed to W - when the all-wheel drive modification is based on the design of the front-wheel drive transmission)

. 51 - some manufacturer's numbers denoting the torque class that this automatic transmission is capable of transmitting. 51 is the Heavy-duty class (maximum torque).

This family of boxes competed with Aisin's rear-wheel drive 4th AW30-40LE... For the more expensive Pajero models of the Japanese market, they installed an Aisin box, and for less demanding customers in Southeast Asia and Latin America, they installed their own V4A51. This family of automatic machines has become the "swan song" of Mitsubishi transmissions. After completing work on it, the AT (automatic transmission) division of Mitsubishi joined the entire staff in Jatko.

This family of machines runs for a very long time and with timely overhaul and compliance with simple operating rules, it can pass its half a million and still remain quite a workhorse.

Pick up repair kits - press the button on the left.

Usually, budgetary planned overhauls of this family consist in cleaning the valve body, repairing the gas turbine engine - 363001 and changing the oil.This is quite enough for another 2-3 years, if the gaskets are intact and the oil pressure in the bags is within the norm according to the manuals.

Repair kits for the bulkhead of 4 mortars and 5 mortars, consisting of gaskets and oil seals -No. 363002С (R4 / V4A51, R5 / V5A51) - are the same in contrast to the front-wheel drive brothers. And together with filters they are the most ordered spare parts for overhaul of these unkillable machines.

The bulkhead of the box usually includes, in addition to the Repair kit for gaskets and oil seals:

- A set of clutches No. 363003 and

- Set of steel discs, No. 363004. (These three sets add up to Masterkit 363007 .)

The rather long-lived clutch of the torque converter lock-up is also subject to wear. For some owners, he lives up to 200 tkm. Untimely replacement of the clutch leads to beats, damage to the pump oil seal, and later - to the pump sleeve 363034. Brake band 363020A is also ordered for overhauls.

The transmission itself is simple and quite reliable, and only after 6-8 years of hard operation, the following can appear.

Typical diseases R4A51 (V4A51)

Filters are clogged with wear products and have two modifications for automatic rear-wheel drive cars:

- since 97 363010C - with shallow intake pan,

and 363010CC - deep pan (since 1999). Most popular.

Filters are disposable with a thin felt membrane. It is recommended to change with each oil change after runs of 100 tkm. The family is unpretentious to oil, it is recommended to change the oil as it gets dirty.

Reverse clutch problem noticed (363110B). They fall asleep, hammering the valve body with paper. Therefore, it is recommended to change them to friction clutches from Borg Warner.

The clutches and steel discs of the first Overdrive package are developed and burned first. No. 363100, 363120.

In case of long-term operation with burnt oil, it is recommended to replace all clutches as a set and brake band - No. 363020A.

- Leakage of the pump stuffing box is most likely a marker of the wear of the blocking of the gas turbine clutch and the pump sleeve No. 363034.

If you start this wear, then you have to change all the bushings of the box with a set - 363030.

Planetary rows

Under extreme and frequent loads close to the torque limit, it fails - Planetary row (O.D.) included 363580 on right The axle breaks the hulls.

a little later ends its resource Planetary series Outgoing 363584 (4 sat.). Together with them he breaks - the Sun gear - 363614.

The metal crumbles from age, high loads and dirty oil. This is usually indicated by hedgehogs on the pallet magnets. If, when changing the oil, the iron crumb in the pallet is larger than 1 mm - a marker for the machine's bulkhead.

- The valve body is washed out during the bulkhead and runs until the end of the life of the machine.

During the first overhaul, some solenoids-electric regulators are subject to replacement, which work most intensely at each switch (EPC main pressure solenoid - 362431)

and operating in the dirtiest and hottest oil, the torque converter clutch lock-up solenoid V5A51 - No. 362421. Interchangeable with other hydraulic plate solenoids that run longer. (left)

- One way clutch separator (Low Sprag) -No. 363652A.

- Planetary gearbox with output shaft for 5-speed automatic transmissions, (Direct Planet) V5A51 AWD - No. 363586.

From old age, oil contaminated with steel sawdust and overheating from the electrical system, the input shaft sensors - Sensor Input -No. 363438 - fail.

and Output Speed ​​Sensor (VSS) # 363436.

And also - Switch-switch (Inhibitor) MLPS - No. 363410.

The first stage consumables are

- 363342A. They break down from old age and overheating, are included in the Repair Kit. But separately from the Overol, the kit is ordered due to dismantling errors: if you disassemble the “iron” of the box without first removing the valve body with these tubes, the ends of both tubes break.

Are included in the Repair kit for gaskets and oil seals - 363002.

The exact prices and availability of spare parts for automatic transmissions can be viewed at the bottom of the page or in the online store by clicking the number of the required item highlighted in orange in the search field.

Automobile: Mitsubishi Pajero GLS, 2004 year, mileage 311,000 km.
Automatic transmission model: V4A51
Problem: the car does not go, arrived in a tow truck.

And again, we are limited by the number of allowed photos in a post (20 in total), but we will try to show as much as possible what is inside the box. So, let's begin…

- Tore off the sun gear from the hub. This is due to wear on the upper and lower planetary gear sets.

- The axes of the satellites have broken the case of the planetary gear set. Standard failure of this box. The gaps are clearly visible in the photo.

- The case of the lower planetary gear set is also broken. Gaps are visible.

- Burnt pack of friction and steel discs.

- Pieces of metal have entered the reverse drum.

- The pump also got it. Metal seizures.

The cost of repairing an automatic transmission in this case.
A complex of repair work (removal of automatic transmission, installation, analysis, troubleshooting, collection, installation of automatic transmission on a car) and repair of a torque converter - 26,000 rubles.
Spare parts required: set of gaskets and oil seals, set of friction discs, set of steel discs, rear planetary gear set, front planetary gear set, hub with sun gear, front planetary gear set hub, sun gear, transmission oil. Total spare parts - 83 180 rubles.

Automatic transmission repair warranty - 12 months without mileage limitation!

An automatic transmission is an expensive component. There is no point in delaying the repair if it starts to work incorrectly. In a car service, such repairs are expensive. You have to pay for the work of specialists and for the details. Having studied the market and the price range of services in this segment, motorists come to the conclusion that repairing automatic transmissions with their own hands is not such a pointless undertaking. The prices of the workshop masters cannot be called modest, and the professionalism does not always correspond to the price. And, after some thought, motorists can decide to fix the problem on their own.

Wherever you decide to repair the gearbox, the whole process goes according to the following scheme:

• diagnostics,
• dismantling the box,
• disassembly of the box,
• complete set with spare parts,
• assembly (installation),
• installation on a car,
• diagnostics after repair.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need some car mechanic skills, tools, a certain amount of time to work with, patience and perseverance.

All automatic transmissions are arranged the same, but there are two types of transmission control - hydraulic and electronic. Their renovation has some differences.

It is important to notice transmission problems at the earliest possible stage. Then, with the correct diagnosis, complex repairs can be avoided. Quiet and smooth operation of the automatic transmission is considered normal. There are a lot of signs that something is wrong with the box. Most often these are extraneous sounds when changing gears or during robotic transmission. It can be crunching, clicks. An unpleasant smell also speaks of problems. It can appear during long-term or short-term operation of the box. It is worse if the gear shifting slows down, or one of them does not work at all. Then immediate intervention is required.

Do not be lazy to look under the car, it should be clean there. Red spots will indicate an oil leak from the transmission. Checking the oil level regularly is a must. Normally, it should be translucent, reddish in color. No burning smells or muddy shades! If they appear, it's time to change the oil.

Automatic transmission malfunctions often arise due to improper operation. The transmission becomes unusable due to insufficient oil level or overheating. For this reason, the gears wear out, the machine can jerk when changing gears. As a result, any part of the automatic transmission may fail. Shocks when driving indicate overheating of the oil and the appearance of problems in the valve body.

Aggressive driving with hard acceleration and braking will erase details. Does not add durability to the box and driving in traffic jams, slipping. All this leads to overheating of the box and has a bad effect on its general condition.

All faults are divided into two subgroups. They can occur in

• electronic control system,
• mechanical and hydraulic parts of the gearbox.

If a malfunction occurs, the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, that is, it goes into third speed and does not switch. The corresponding icon appears on the display.

If problems have arisen with the electronics, then it will not be possible to fix them by repairing the automatic transmission.Therefore, it is important to understand the nature of the faults.

In diagnostics, the main thing is to collect the necessary information and interpret it correctly. Therefore, it is better to consult a specialist. Determine what the problem is at the service station, and take care of the repair yourself. Without proper experience and equipment, you will spend a lot of time on diagnostics. There are mechanical and computer diagnostics.

General scheme of diagnostic procedures:

• check the oil,
• check the operation of the engine at idle speed, the connection points of the wiring and cables,
• determine the error codes of the operation of the control units (CU) of the gearbox and engine,
• check the box on a car without movement,
• check the automatic transmission in motion,
• check the pressure inside the control system.

If the cause of the malfunctions is electronics problems, then most likely you will not need to dismantle and disassemble the automatic transmission. Diagnostics of malfunctions in this system is carried out by the control unit. It monitors the sensor signals, the transmission ratio and the resistance of the output circuits. Malfunctions of such parts and assemblies may occur:

• input sensors,
• electronic control unit,
• executive devices of the control system,
• violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring connections.

The transmission computer receives signals from various sensors. If some parameters are out of order, it writes the code of this problem (DTC) into memory. You can decrypt such numbers using a special scanner.

These are the main problems of the automatic transmission itself. They are conventionally divided into three subgroups:

1. Damage to friction groups, bushings and housings, calipers, planetary gear sets, pump and other mechanics.
2. Defective transformer. This includes:
   • breaks in the splines of the wires,
   • mechanical destruction of the blades,
   • overrunning clutch,
   • wear of the main blocking clutch,
   • depressurization of the piston oil seal.
   • Problems with the mechanics of the hydraulic plate.

If the diagnostics were successful and you cannot do without dismantling, then we proceed to this stage of the automatic transmission repair.

You will need a special lift, or at least a viewing hole. As well as a transmission jack and a set of keys. It is better to perform this procedure in a specially equipped garage or box. It will not be superfluous to invite several physically strong guys to help you move the removed box. Its weight is beyond the strength of even a very strong person. Further action plan:

1. disconnect all communication tubes and cables;
2. unscrew the torque converter mounting bolts, as well as the motor flywheel membranes;
3. remove and move the gearbox;
4. assess the scale of the breakdown and start repairing.

Before removing the gearbox, the oil does not need to be drained from it. However, then do not forget to substitute the container at the place where the oil supply pipes are attached when you disconnect them - otherwise you will get an ugly puddle under your feet.

All actions must be careful. Sudden movements can damage the splines on the input shaft of the diaphragm.

It is better to do automatic transmission repair with your own hands, having it at hand proprietary manual and a printed diagram of the gearbox. First you need to inspect all the systems that serve the gearbox, mounts and blocks. Then we proceed to the repair. For this:

1. We disassemble the gearbox, wash and dry the parts and check them for defects.
2. We change all gaskets, seals, as well as worn out parts.
3. Remove the inhibitor block and sump. We clean out the dirt inside. It looks like metal magnetic shavings.
4. We remove the wiring of the ring from the plug and push them inside the plug.
5. Remove the valve body, loosen the brake band bolts. We wash the valve body.
6. We check the clutches, gears and planetary gears for wear. We will replace it if there is such a need.All internal rubber bands must be changed!
7. We open the oil pump. We check all the details, especially the filter. We change what has already served its term. We use the manual so as not to swap parts.
8. We take out the valves and springs. We wash the valves. Their sticking can be the reason for incorrect operation of the automatic transmission. Replace the accumulator springs if they are broken.
9. Putting everything back into place. It is important not to confuse anything!
10. We replace rings and friction bolts.
11. We check the gear shift assembly and the large piston and put the oil pump in place.

Assembly takes place upside-down.

There are some points that it is advisable to take into account when repairing. Often a transmission problem is related to the filter. It will not be possible to change it without removing the valve body. And when it is removed, the gasket breaks. To replace it, you will need to disassemble the valve body completely. The same applies to the accumulator spring from first to second gear. A special stopper does not allow you to remove it without disassembling the valve body. All valve body gaskets are very similar, do not mix them up. Assembling the valve body, we tighten it with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten here.

If all the breakdowns are eliminated, we install the automatic transmission. The moment is responsible, haste is inappropriate here. During these works, the following recommendations should be adhered to:

• When installing the automatic transmission in its place, the diaphragm is checked for end runout using an indicator head. If such a defect occurs, then it must be replaced.
• The radiator is flushed until the gasoline is clean. Then a liter of transmission oil is poured into the gas turbine engine and put on the input shaft. You need to achieve a secure connection and a complete fit. Then you need to dock the engine with the box along the guide centering pins. The crankcases must abut completely.
• Tightening the bolts in the box is the next step. After that, the absence of gaps along the entire plane is checked. After connecting all the highways, the correctness of the connections is checked.
• At the final stage, oil is poured and the operation of the automatic transmission is checked at low engine speeds.

Beginning the installation of the box, be sure to check for the presence of centering pins on the crankcase flange - there should be two of them. If at least one is missing, the automatic transmission cannot be attached.

Automatic transmission repair and diagnostics do it yourself - not an easy, but feasible task. Choosing a car with an automatic transmission, novice car enthusiasts believe that repairing it at home is impossible. This is not true. But before deciding to carry out such important work at home, you need to weigh all your possibilities. Then you will not be in for unpleasant surprises during the renovation.

Attention! Car service network of favorable prices. Camber check is FREE! No queues! Repair on the same day!

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The topic was discussed in parts several hundred times. But since this is an expensive question, I would like to ask you specifically.

I drive Pajero 3 2000, Arab Engine 6g72. Automatic machine under the hood v4a51 4636. By ABC (by vin japancats) I have v4a51-7-DCA1

After some operation, the rear one began to refuse (from the word at all) and before it began to turn on with a twitch and switch with jerks. There are no errors, the speed lights are on as needed.

Opened - oil with shavings (glitters), hedgehogs on magnets. I decided to put a contract, because I feel that for 17 years with this box, they did not stand on ceremony. And in principle, in operation, the jolts when turned on were initially.

The question arose - which box from v4a51_______ is right for me. In some branches they write that any with this index, they say, change only the bell, pallet and bell.
But again, contractors come with a torque converter, I wanted everything to be changed. Will the new wetsuit fit into the old bell.

Boxes v4a51_______ were installed starting from P2 and vski challengers. On disassembly, they give a tooth that from P2 will not work. Diesel engines say different gear ratios.

That's the question. While in mind there is v4a512dja.Will this work, and is it true that Everything does not care after V4A5 ************************************ ** (. 8 # p2286371) and the boxes themselves are interchangeable. It is only necessary to rearrange the transitional elements and the pallet. (. 8 # p2260668)

If so, which transitional elements, besides the pallet and the bell, need to be changed.

Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day

CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts

Well, here it is clear what the conversation is about.

# 1 Post seregasan Apr 01, 2013 12:24 am

# 2 Post machucha Apr 01, 2013 12:31 am

# 3 Post seregasan Apr 01, 2013 2:12 am

# 4 Post arsas Apr 01, 2013 2:43 am

# 5 Post seregasan Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:03 am

# 6 Post seregasan Apr 01, 2013 3:22 am

# 7 Post machucha Mon Apr 01, 2013 4:06 am

4- and 5-speed gearboxes R4A51 (V4A51), V5A51 (R5A51) are a fairly reliable and sturdy mechanism with a long working life. The first problems can be caused due to an untimely oil change, so if you take this issue under reliable control, then problems with the automatic transmission will not appear soon.

On average, serious problems with boxes R4A51 (V4A51), V5A51 (R5A51) make themselves felt after 6-8 years under conditions of harsh vehicle operation. They manifest themselves as follows:

Valve body clogged... In automatic transmissions R4A51 (V4A51), V5A51 (R5A51), the problem of a clogged valve body is one of the most common reasons for contacting specialists. A careful and attentive attitude to the vehicle will help to identify this problem at an early stage, which will solve the problem in a short time and without much money.

Faulty input and output shaft sensors... Of the electrics in gearboxes R4A51 (V4A51), V5A51 (R5A51), the input and output shaft sensors are the first to fail from aging. Corrected by replacing it with a new mechanism.

Wear of clutches... Under the influence of long-term operation, the clutches of the gearbox begin to crumble, clogging the valve body with paper. You can eliminate such a malfunction by installing new clutches.

Wear of planetary gear sets... R4A51 (V4A51), V5A51 (R5A51) gearboxes have two planetary gears: input and output. With prolonged exposure, the incoming and then the outgoing planetary gear set is the first to fail. The problem is "treated" by installing new planetary gears.

Take a newcomer to Drom.ru))).

Took up the repair of the automatic transmission FN4A-EL (4F27E) from a friend on Premasi. I will post the report along the way here:.

Tips and tricks from experts are welcome 🙂

as far as I understand - the man-handles are labor. we do need e. join in! Respect and respect. You grabbed repairs, not even with our masya, but I look at your experience even from other people's cars more than we do. We are very glad to welcome you in our ranks.

As far as I understand, if the symptoms are no 4 gears, then slowly we get sick to L in boxing.

We order a lid and 4 elastic bands (sort of like) and for a start we only change the lid.

Do I understand correctly that the cover can be removed without lowering the engine on the jack? On the chapel (there at the bottom of the link) this is done. And we have?

And since this is the case, can you tell me the numbers of the cover and its oil seals (and the number?)?

Just in case, the body number is CP8W-404953. 2002 year. 1.8 l.

I think to order, since such is the case. At the next oil change in the box, I will ask you to replace it.

Added by: I've found an estimate. What is desirable to change from this? As I understand it, the cover with rubber bands on it, as well as the clutches of 3-4 gears. Indicate point by point. Thanks!

Wait kolupalis on existential.

So, the catalog offers 4 covers, depending on the month-year. For 2002, two covers are offered depending on the month. How to define more precisely? 🙂

With the oil seals on the cover, I realized:
FN11-19-762 (or -212 last digits) - 2 pcs., These are small oil seals;
FN01-19-655 - 2 pcs. - large oil seals.

Karbofos Thanks! Found my cover)))

Question to the topstarter. 2005 car. The mileage is small, apparently, that's why the lid is in order.

And what could cause the wear of the rubber bands of the pistons?

I also read a few links that are already well-known here.

If your box kicks back, and it happened quite recently, open it, look at the lid and change the rings FN01-19-655 (2 pcs). These are the ones that sit on the lid and are larger in diameter. We order the cover itself as needed (if there is wear under the rings or the edges of the cover axis).

If the box kicks forward by 3-4 and it happened quite recently, similarly, but FN11-19-762 (or -212 last digits) - 2 pcs. These are small rings on the lid. Similar to the previous case - we order the cover itself as needed (if there is wear under the rings or the edges of the cover axis).

If we ride for a long time with such malfunctions, you need to remove the packages, look at the clutches, “pistons” (I don’t know how to call them correctly) and the brake band.

Attention, question (again :-).
What kind of lid sealant to use? they don't write about it anywhere.

Automatic transmission Hyundai- Mitsubishi V5A51 (R5A51), V4A51 (R4A51)

4-stage R4A51 (V4A51) used since 1997 for rear-wheel drive Monteros with an engine of 3 liters or more. A couple of years later, they launched a 5-speed R5A51 (2000-2006) and all-wheel drive V5A51, differing only in the output to the distributor, and not to the crankshaft. The decal can be located under the hood under the windshield or embossed on the body.

The whole design is similar to the front-wheel drive family F4A51... Modified pump, drums, planets (except O.D.). The clutches in all packages are also identical.

Mitsubishi Marking R4A51 (V4A51) stands for: R4 .. - rear-wheel drive (rear), 4-speed automatic transmission.

V5... - four-wheel drive, based on the rear, 5-speed transmission (as opposed to W - when the all-wheel drive modification is based on the design of the front-wheel drive transmission)

. 51 - some manufacturer's numbers denoting the torque class that this automatic transmission is capable of transmitting. 51 is the Heavy-duty class (maximum torque).

This family of boxes competed with Aisin's rear-wheel drive 4th AW30-40LE... For the more expensive Pajero models of the Japanese market, they installed an Aisin box, and for less demanding customers in Southeast Asia and Latin America, they installed their own V4A51. This family of automata has become Mitsubishi's “swan song”. After the completion of work on it, the AT division of Mitsubishi joined the entire staff in Jatko.

Repair kits for 4 mortars and 5 mortars -No. 363002С (R4 / V4A51, R5 / V5A51) - are the same in contrast to the front-wheel drive brothers. And together with filters, they are the most ordered spare parts for these indestructible boxes. Usually, repairs of this family consist in cleaning the valve body, repairing gas turbine engines and changing the oil.

A standard box bulkhead usually includes, in addition to a repair kit for gaskets and oil seals:

- A set of clutches No. 363003 and

- Set of steel discs, No. 363004. (These three sets add up to Masterkit 363007.)

The rather long-lived clutch of the torque converter lock-up is also subject to wear. For some owners, he lives up to 200 tkm. Untimely replacement of the clutch leads to beats, damage to the pump oil seal, and later to the pump sleeve 363034.

The transmission itself is simple and quite reliable, and only after 6-8 years of hard operation, the following can appear.

- (O.D.) incoming 363580 on right and - Output Planet 363584 left... Axis breaks their hulls.

a little later - Planetary series Outgoing 363584 (4 sat.). Together with them he breaks - the Sun gear - 363614.

The metal crumbles from age, high loads and dirty oil. This is usually indicated by hedgehogs on the pallet magnets. If, when changing the oil, the crumb is larger than 1 mm - a symptom of the need for repair.

- One way clutch separator (Low Sprag) -No. 363652A.

- Planetary gearbox with output shaft for 5-speed automatic transmissions, (Direct Planet) V5A51 AWD - # 363586.

Due to old age from the electrics, the input shaft sensors fail - Sensor Input -No. 363438.

and the output shaft Output Speed ​​(VSS) -No. 363436.

And also - MLPS Switch Switch - No. 363410.

The filter for the box of rear-wheel drive cars has two modifications:

- from 97 year 363010E - with a shallow collecting pan,

and 363010F - with deep tray - from 1999. Most popular.

Filters are disposable with a thin felt membrane. It is recommended to change with each oil change after runs of 100 tkm.

Reverse clutch problem noticed (363110B). They fall asleep, hammering the valve body with paper. Therefore, it is recommended to replace them with Borg Warner clutches.

The clutches and steel discs of the first Overdrive package are developed and burned first. No. 363100, 363120.

In case of long-term operation with burnt oil, it is recommended to replace all clutches as a set and brake band - No. 363020A.

Consumables of the first stage are the Tube-cuffs between the hydraulic plate and the body - 363342A. They break down from old age and overheating, are included in the Repair Kit. But separately from the Overol, the kit is ordered due to dismantling errors: if you disassemble the “iron” of the box without first removing the valve body with these tubes, the ends of both tubes break.

Are included in the Repair kit for gaskets and oil seals - 363002.

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Oh yes, all these masters do not like to read anything - this is duty and a lot of bukaf and read the manual when there is nothing to read or everything is already broken…. As for the fact that they do not bear any guarantee for their work, I was convinced personally. And the address, do not tell me where the box was repaired, otherwise I already broke my head who to turn to for repairing the torque converter. And about the plaintive groans, you filter it!

Please login or register. Did not receive your activation email? Automatic transmission when overdrive is on - slips. Biysk Altai My car: The car starts moving and then it takes off as speed. Shariot Grandis - engine: Do a self-diagnosis, and it will be clear there. What automatic transmission gears work?

In general, it is very similar to a brake band. Nikolay 45 years old Location: Yes, everything is off with it off. So all the same, removal and repair? Torque converter lock-up system malfunction - Torque converter lock-up system pressure - Torque converter lock-up solenoid valve - Automatic transmission ECU malfunction So where to start? Put a donut on the block, and you can ride without it, the computer also works, without it there would be only 3rd gear.

I reset the errors, I drove a little without turning on the OD, error 54 came out Connector of the sensors or the speed sensors themselves, where can you see them and how to check?

Slipping of the extreme clutch who knows which thread and where to order? Forced downshift brake slippage. Yes, they work out fine, I will look at the wiring, I will open the ECU. I just think if 4 is already skidding, you still can't do without a replacement. And the filter should probably be changed.