Aogv 11 6 DIY repair

Here you will find a complete description of the gas valve bulkhead House-keeper for the gas boiler AOGV Zhukovsky. And in all our subsequent work with you regarding the diagnosis of unit malfunctions, we will constantly refer to this article in order to get to the true cause of the boiler malfunction and quickly defeat the cold that makes its way into the house.

So! To begin with, let's look at the insides of the valve in the first small diagram, by the way, kindly provided to us by the Zhukovsky plant. It's not exactly comfortable, but still.

How does a gas valve work?

1. Igniter start. Press the solenoid valve button (22). When pressed, the valve needle will push down through the sealed membrane (25) onto the stem of the top valve (24) and the gas, through the slots in the seat (seat not shown in the diagram) of the top valve (24), will rush into the hole leading to the igniter. It is immediately worth noting that the position of the upper valve (24) is normally closed. If the button is released, the spring will return it back. And the position of the lower valve is normally open. Another spring opens it until it is closed when the boiler is heated by the “accordion” of the thermocylinder bellows that has expanded from temperature. The o-ring (28) is the seal between the top valve seat and the block body. After the igniter ignited, the thermocouple warmed up, and we released the valve button (22), which remained in the pressed position, we can proceed to start the main burner.

On AOGV Economy gas boilers, a gas valve is embedded in the gas pipeline pipe between the gas block and the burner. When starting the igniter on a cold boiler, this gas cock must be closed. This is necessary so that the gas does not divide between the igniter and the burner. To ignite the igniter confidently. We open the tap, the burner lights up. If the boiler is started hot, then the bottom valve of the block may be closed. It is held in this state by a heated bellows-bulb. In this case, the main burner will start when the temperature control knob is turned to increase the temperature.

2. Setting and adjusting the operating temperature. After the burner has caught fire and the boiler has started its work, the question arises, what will happen next? Then the following happens. The bottom valve (23) on a cold boiler is always initially normally open because it is forced out by a spring. This valve will close only when the "accordion" of the bellows-thermoballoon, having moved apart when the set temperature is reached, presses with its stem, which passes inside the valve body, through the seal (27) onto the lever, which will begin to close and close the bottom valve (23), and the burner will go out. By turning the knob of the thermoballoon bellows temperature regulator, you are able to set any temperature within the permitted range, i.e. allow the “accordion” of the bellows-bulb to press on the stem and close the bottom valve both at +35C and at +90C.

3. Idling. When the lower valve (23) is closed, gas access to the boiler burner is blocked, and the boiler remains to work only on the igniter. Transferring heat to the heat carrier of the heating system, the boiler gradually cools down. The “accordion” of the bellows-bulb is gradually compressed. The spring of the lower valve (23) tends to push it down to the open position, and when the spring force is higher than the force of the “accordion” of the thermocylinder bellows, the valve will move and open gas access to the burner, which will “light up” from the igniter flame. Finished with the diagram.

Now so. Everything that you will see here now is the foundation on which the correct diagnosis of any malfunction can only be built.associated with the operation of the gas valve AOGV Economy. All other assumptions not based on this knowledge are usually wrong. They either entail an absolutely useless waste of time and money, and if successfully implemented, they still do not provide reliability. And the Economy valve is a great and extremely reliable thing. Now make sure.

Functionally, the block consists of two parts. Upper and lower. The first part, the top one, is the hardest. We need two things: attention and accuracy. There is no rush.

Top part. Remove the solenoid valve from above. When separating the valve, hold the needle sticking down so that it does not fall out. (More here.)

Take out the rubber membrane. She sits pretty tight. We are not afraid! Carefully, so as not to damage, we pick it out from there.

Under the membrane we see a plastic cap, which, when pressed, abuts the needle of the solenoid valve. We take out the cap.

Next, we see the upper inner sleeve. The bushing sits freely. We take it out. When we take it out, we see that the sleeve has a hole for the passage of gas inside our gas block.

Here is the hole. When reassembling these holes, of course, must be aligned. Next, we see the sealing rubber ring between the block body and the upper valve seat. The top valve, when pressed, allows gas to the igniter. There are holes in the saddle. It is through these slots that the gas passes down, and with the top valve open, it goes to the igniter. We take a screwdriver and pry right behind the slots of this thing.

The upper valve seat and the upper valve itself are in our hands. If the gas goes down through the slots in the seat, we understand that the working surface of the upper valve is in contact with the seat from below. After that, calmly take out the lower sleeve and see a hole in it. Where does it lead? Right. To the igniter. This hole is located clearly opposite the fitting, on which we then screw the boiler igniter nut.

If you look inside the block after all the above manipulations, we will see a lower valve seat with holes for gas to pass to the main burner.

For a more complete understanding, we give a small layout of the elements in the next photo.

1. Bottom valve seat O-ring. Must be located between block body and bottom valve seat.

2. The hole through which the gas initially enters the block. This hole must be aligned with the hole in the top bushing. otherwise the gas simply will not get into the block.

3. These are the holes in the bottom valve seat for the passage of gas to the main burner.

5. Fitting leading gas to the igniter.

6. A hole that passes gas to the igniter. It must be aligned with the hole in the lower bushing of the block.

It should also be noted that at the gas inlet to the unit, at the place where the entire unit is attached to our boiler, a filter mesh is installed at the inlet.

Now let's move on to the second half of our block.

Bottom part. Remove the valve cover by unscrewing 6 screws.

An amazing picture appears before our eyes, answering the question “What is an Economy gas valve?” Answer: Nothing! The word “Nothing” should be understood in an exclusively joyful-positive aspect. This means its simplicity, accessibility to understanding, even if you want, the beauty of the solution. And most importantly, the independence of the operation of this device from nothing. We prove our words.

1. This is a gas pipe through which gas goes to the main burner of the boiler when the bottom valve is opened.

2. This is the bottom valve itself. Moreover, it is worth noting that its working surface is on top. That is, in the closed state, the valve is tightly pressed against the upper seat. Now the bottom valve is open, because we filmed all this on a cold boiler.

3. Lever. We call this thing the bottom valve rocker.

4. A very important thing. A pin resembling an ordinary nail.

5. The rod of the bellows-bulb.

Now let's go back to the question of how our gas valve works.

1. Igniter start. The start-up and operation of the igniter belongs entirely to the upper part of the gas block. Pressing the button, starting the gas, igniting the igniter, heating the thermocouple and, as a result of this, fixing the button in the pressed position refers to the operation of the top valve, thermocouple, solenoid valve, and that's it.

2. Setting and adjusting the operating temperature. As we can see from the photo taken on a cold boiler, the bottom valve is always open. Those. when you press the button and start the gas to the igniter, part of the gas will go to the burner. To prevent this from happening, there is a gas valve between the gas block and the burner. By the way, this valve is present only in the boilers of the Zhukovsky plant. And so on. See how the bulb bellows stem (5) is missing from the rocker arm (3)? When the boiler reaches the set temperature, the "accordion" of the bellows-thermoballoon will begin to move apart, pressing on the rocker, it will displace the lower valve (2) until it is completely closed. When the gas access to the burner is completely closed by the bottom valve, the boiler remains idling. Only the igniter works. When the boiler cools down, the "accordion" is compressed, and the lower valve is slightly opened by a spring mounted on the valve stem. The burner starts.

We continue. We take pliers and easily remove the rocker pin. By the way, over time, he begins to seize. Lubricate it or replace it with any nail that fits in diameter. We remove the rocker with a screwdriver towards ourselves. As soon as we release the rocker, the bottom valve will fall down.

We take the lower valve in our hands. It is no different from the top, except for the length of the stem. Do you want to change aperture? It's easy. We pull off the ring that fixes and at the same time tightens the diaphragm.

In this photo, the trace of castor oil is clearly visible to see where the working surface of the valve is in order to evenly tighten the diaphragm with the ring.

So. What's left is this. Replacing the stem seal of the bulb-bellows assembly. We take out the stem with pliers. Pry off the sealing rubber with a thin screwdriver. We just take it out. We see the place where she lies. We put in a new one.
See also here what to do if the temperature controller knob is jammed in the ZhMZ Economy unit

When reassembling, do not forget to combine the holes on the bushings with the working holes of the igniter and the gas inlet to the block.

Prologue. There is no device in the world simpler and more reliable than this thing. It's a pity when we are forced to bring and sell gas valves as an assembly, instead of unscrewing 10 screws (4 from the magnetic box and 6 from the valve cover) to go through, find and see the malfunction and do everything 10 times cheaper than it costs brand new at the factory.

Golden Rule. In gas technology, problems are not only shut up with money! They are also decided by the head. You can spend money, and the effect of this will be ZERO. It is clear that it is difficult to adapt to this. Well, actually, this article is written for this. ))))))

Promise. We are personally with you, with our own hands, a little later, we will definitely pick open (and there is no doubt about this) a couple of imported valves. So that someone doesn’t yell at us about how this valve is more reliable than the valve that we just dismantled.

Gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3: instructions for use

In Russia and throughout the post-Soviet space, along with the old "Soviet" AGV heating boilers, gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3 Rostov or Zhukovsky are widely used and have different reviews. These devices run on gas, and, as you know, it is the cheapest type of fuel today. In addition, AOGV boilers are quite unpretentious and do not require any special conditions for their operation.

In this article, we will try to understand AOGV boilers, what it is, consider the technical characteristics of non-volatile gas heating boilers AOGV-11.6, disadvantages, prices and draw up instructions for use.

AOGV what is it

For many of those who are puzzled by the purchase of an AOGV gas boiler, at first this name of the boiler may seem incomprehensible. In fact, everything is simple.

AOGV is an abbreviation, its decoding is Gas Water Heating Heating Apparatus. The number that comes after this abbreviation indicates the power of the gas boiler. For example, the decoding of the abbreviation AOGV-11.6 indicates that this gas heater has a power of 11.6 kW, AOGV-17.4, respectively, 17.4 kW, etc.

Consider AOGV boilers using the example of popular boilers manufactured at the plant in the city of Zhukovsky, manufactured by ZhMZ.

Boilers AOGV-11.6-3 Comfort, Universal and Economy series

Non-volatile gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3 are designed for heating a private house, garage or other premises. Available in outdoor version only. Household versions of gas boilers have a range from 11 to 29 kW of power. The main type of fuel for the AOGV boiler is natural gas.

Water is heated by a gas burner located under the heat exchanger tank at the bottom of the boiler. When replacing the nozzles of a gas burner, it is possible to use the boiler on liquefied gas. The body and heat exchanger of the boiler are made of steel. The heat exchanger for heating water has a tubular structure, which contributes to its sufficiently high efficiency.

The inlet and outlet fittings for connecting the heat carrier are located on the back of the boiler body. These fittings are 40 mm or 1 1/2 inches in diameter. At the bottom is the “return”, at the top is the “direct”. The smoke channel is connected to the upper part of the AOGV boiler body, the diameter of the chimney must be at least 120 mm.

Boilers are produced both single-circuit and double-circuit: under the name AKGV-11.6-3. The latter are intended for both heating and hot water supply.

Double-circuit gas boilers AKGV with a power of 11 kW will give you 4-5 liters of warm water per minute. This, of course, is enough, for example, to wash your hands or dishes, but no more.

What is the difference between floor gas boilers AOGV

So, in everyday life, heating boilers AOGV-11.6-3 of the Economy and Universal series are the most common. The main difference between these series lies in the types of automation installed on the boilers.

Gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3 Economy have domestic automation. The operation of this boiler is controlled by means of a thermostat knob and an electromagnetic valve, to which a draft sensor and a thermocouple are connected.

A thermocouple is an important element of the automation of a gas boiler AOGV. It is made of copper, shaped like a thick rod. Serves to control the presence of a flame on the igniter. If the draft level drops, the draft sensor is activated and the solenoid valve shuts off the gas supply.

Boiler automation AOGV-11.6-3 Economy series

Boiler AOGV-11.6-3 Station wagon with automatic Sit

Boilers AOGV and AKGV of the "Comfort" series are equipped with American Honeywell automation, which also has a built-in piezoelectric element, but a slightly different design.

Advantages of boilers AOGV-11.6-3

— the ability to work in systems with natural and forced circulation

- compatible with any material from which the heating system is made (steel, cast iron, polypropylene, metal-plastic)

- Ability to work on natural and liquefied gas

Disadvantages of AOGV boilers

- outdated automation on boilers of the Economy series

- it is difficult to find spare parts if they need to be replaced in case of a malfunction

- rather high price compared to competitors

Boilers AOGV-11.6: product price

To date, the purchase of a single-circuit gas boiler of the Economy series will cost 11-12 thousand rubles, the Universal series of 13-14 thousand. Price is as of September 2014.

In this article, we have compiled instructions for boilers AOGV-11.6-3, dismantled the principle of operation, the main advantages and disadvantages, as well as specifications and prices. And in conclusion, let's see a short video review.

Floor standing gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3 are single-circuit units with a rated power of 11.6 kW.The device is able to operate both from natural and from liquefied gas with a very economical consumption. To date, this is the best option for heating a house up to 110 square meters. m. At the same time, the unit has acceptable dimensions (850x310x412 mm), which makes it easy to find a place for it in the house and facilitates the installation of the boiler.

In general, AOGV-11.6-3 are reliable and practical, these heating devices are time-tested and ideal for operation in Russia. Boilers AOGV do not require any special conditions for operation. However, after several years of operation, it may be necessary to clean the unit with all components from soot and other contaminants.

How quickly soot will accumulate in your AOGV depends on several reasons, including the initial correct installation of the device. The AOGV cleaning process is not so complicated, so it is advisable to carry it out regularly, at least for prevention, before the start of each heating season.

Starting the procedure for cleaning a gas boiler, be more attentive to the little things of any design in the unit. Everything has its purpose, and ill-conceived actions can lead to emergency situations.

Before proceeding with any action, shut off the gas supply from the home wiring. To clean AOGV-11.6-3, you will have to disassemble the unit:

• dismantle the burner block in order to carry out mechanical cleaning of the igniter nozzle;
• remove the top cover of the boiler to clean it of soot.

To remove the burner block, you need to turn the boiler pan and disconnect the igniter tube, gas pipe and thermocouple contact tube from the automation unit. Then carefully unscrew the nuts on the fittings of the automation unit.

Remove the paronite gasket on the main gas pipe and check its condition. Check the gasket on the flare tube for wear, most likely it will remain on the tee fitting.

After disassembling this assembly, the pallet is easily rotated and through the groove closest to the tubes, the holder is removed from engagement with the casing. While supporting the tray from below, slightly push it towards you and disengage the other two holders. Lower the entire assembly to the floor and carefully pull it out between the legs of the boiler.

1. Check the condition of the main burner and clean it if necessary. Then inspect the ignition torch nozzle.
2. Unscrew the two screws holding this assembly in the assembled position (wick and thermocouple). To facilitate unscrewing, process the screws with WD-40, the process will go much easier.
3. Remove the box housing from the pilot burner to gain access to the nozzle. If necessary, remove plaque from the brass nozzle effortlessly with fine sandpaper.
4. Clean the nozzle itself with a thin copper wire and blow under pressure with a pump from the side where the tube is connected to the tee.
5. While there is free access, very carefully clean the bend of the thermocouple tube with fine sandpaper, there may be a small layer of oxide.

Carefully reassemble all components in reverse order. Slowly, without tilting, lift this entire assembly so that the burner goes inside the housing, and the igniter and thermocouple assembly does not cling to the flange of the casing. Standing on the side of the pipes, slightly tilt the entire assembly towards you with a slight downward slope so that the opposite edge of the pallet slightly rises.

When feeding the pallet forward, simultaneously put on the two distant hooks so that they go into the flanging of the casing. Direct the hook closest to you into the cut groove, and when it enters it, turn the entire pallet counterclockwise. The gas pipe should be directly under its branch pipe of the automation unit.

Check the presence and correct fit of the gaskets and reinstall all pipes. Tighten the nuts on the igniter tube and on the gas supply tube with a wrench. Before reinstalling the thermocouple tube, very carefully clean its contact pads. It is recommended to tighten this nut not with a wrench, but with your fingers.

Check the tightness of the connections for possible gas leakage and start the boiler.

First of all, to clean the AOGV boiler, remove the umbrella that goes into the metal part of the chimney. When the umbrella connecting the boiler to the chimney is removed, already under the umbrella itself you will see deposits of soot, which must also be cleaned off.

Then remove the top cover of the boiler. To do this, first disconnect and dismantle the draft sensor, if the retaining screws cannot be unscrewed, remove the cover together with the sensor. To do this, using a 14 key, unscrew the nut connecting the tube with the tee of the automation unit.

Check the paronite gasket for wear. Disconnect the draft sensor tube. Unscrew the screws fixing the cover on the boiler casing. Clean the back of the cover.

Remove the boiler water heat exchanger cover. Its fasteners - metal wedges - are easily reduced to the center and the wedge is removed from the slot. Similarly, remove all stoppers and remove the cover. A small gap opened between the heat exchanger and the cover can be tightly clogged with soot.

Remove the gas flow turbulator inserts from the heat exchanger channels. Remove the boiler tray with the burner block. Now you can proceed directly to cleaning all the components of the AOGV boiler.

For this operation, you will need a regular plastic bottle brush. It can be purchased at a hardware store, it is great for cleaning vertical channels. Tie it with electrical tape to a wooden stick so that you can easily go through the channels along their entire height. In order not to breed excess dirt in the boiler room, take everything that can be moved out into the yard for cleaning.

1. Start cleaning from the upper plane of the heat exchanger, clean and sweep down all the soot.
2. Then comes the turn of cleaning the channels. Soot will move away from the walls quite easily if it has not yet had time to harden, otherwise some effort will have to be made.
3. After completing the cleaning process of the boiler itself, proceed to the removed components and parts. Clean the top cover of the heat exchanger. After it, remove soot deposits on the top cover of the boiler itself and from the hood.
4. Last, brush off the soot attacking from above from the burner block with a brush, the burner itself is already clean.

Immediately lightly clean the tube with fine sandpaper. This completes the process of cleaning the boiler and its parts. Proceed to the reassembly of the AOGV boiler.

To reassemble the boiler, first install the burner assembly in place, as described above. Immediately connect all the pipes properly, check the gaskets so that they are all in place and not worn out, tighten the screws and nuts.

Replace the turbulators. The heat exchanger channel is now clean and the edge of the gas burner is clearly visible from below. It is simply impossible to make a mistake with the installation of turbulators. Simply insert them into the channels, they are held in by the expansion of the central metal plate located on top. Insert so that the plate is oriented along the radius of the cylindrical heat exchanger, that is, the blades will be approximately tangential to the circle.

Replace the heat exchanger cover in the next step. In this case, the lugs for the clamps must enter the slots in the cover. Insert metal cotter pins-wedges into the slots of the eyes and slightly knock them out from the back. The cover must fit as closely as possible to the heat exchanger. Finally, spread the antennae with pliers - and that's it, the lid will be securely fastened.

Next, replace the top cover of the boiler. With its correct position, the holes from the normally released self-tapping screws will help you orient. If the draft sensor has not been removed and is already in place, you will only have to connect its tube to the tee and tighten the nut to fix it.

Complete the assembly of the boiler by installing the cap. Slide it under the pipe, put it on its socket, it should fit very tightly, then carefully put it in place.Make sure that the three protrusions on the hood fit into the corresponding holes in the boiler lid. In this case, the cut out semicircular window will be above the passing tube of the temperature sensor.

After that, of course, check all connections for leaks and proceed to start the boiler. If the wick lights up immediately, and after 15 seconds the magnetic valve works, then the launch went well.

Open the gas supply valve. The burner should ignite easily, and the fire should burn evenly, with the same height of the flames. Moreover, it is important that the flames are directed exactly up, and not to the sides. This means that the automation worked perfectly, the cleaned boiler works as expected.

Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, geysers, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.

Installation and connection of the gas boiler AOGV-11.6 to communication systems

Works performed for the installation of the boiler AOGV-11.6:

– Remove the preservative grease and wipe the device with a dry cloth.

– Install the unit vertically and check the vertical level. Install shield 15 (Fig.1) at the bottom of the tank.

– Install the draft breaker 1 (Fig.1) on the boiler, ensuring its 11 strictly vertical position. The end of the draft breaker door 2 must not protrude outward and must deviate from the nominal position inside the draft breaker by no more than 1-2 mm.

– The drawbar door must rotate easily on the axle. Casing 3 must not touch the bimetallic plate of the draft sensor 4.

- Connect the AOGV-11.6 boiler to the chimney, gas pipeline and pipes of the heating system (CO) and hot water supply (DHW). A gas valve must be installed on the gas supply pipe in front of the unit, blocking the access of gas to the apparatus.

– The connecting pipes of the pipelines must be precisely adjusted to the location of the inlet fittings of the device. Connection should not be accompanied by mutual tension of pipes and units of the apparatus.

– Fill the thermometer connection 5 with machine or vehicle oil (oil filling volume 15 cm3).

– Fill the heating system with water. Filling of the heating system is controlled by signal pipe 3 (Fig. 4).

- After installing the AOGV-11.6 boiler, check the gas and water communications for leaks. Check the tightness of the gas pipeline connections with a soap emulsion. It is forbidden to use fire to detect gas leaks.

– Set the adjusting nut 6 (Fig. 2) of the automation unit to the required water temperature in the boiler.

– Carry out sequential switching on of the unit.

– Check that the igniter flame intensively washes the end of the thermocouple and ensures instantaneous (no more than 2 seconds) ignition of the burner over the entire surface.

- Check the operation of the AOGV-11.6 boiler automation by draft. Cut-off of gas to the igniter and the main burner must occur within no more than 60 seconds. and at least 10 sec. If necessary, adjust the response time of the draft sensor.

- When the device is operating for heating and hot water supply, water for household needs should be supplied for a short time (the duration of one cycle of hot water intake is not more than 1.5 hours) in order to avoid violation of the temperature regime of the heating system.

– In case of long-term hot water withdrawal, we recommend: to increase the temperature and volume of hot water, first set the adjusting nut 6 (Fig. 2) to a temperature of 90 C and close the valve 10 (Fig. 4) on the return water line 7 in the heating system.

– After the end of hot water intake, open the valve 10 on the return water line 7 to restore water circulation in the heating system and set the adjusting nut 6 (Fig. 2) to the required temperature.

– For the summer period, close the valve 10 (Fig. 4) on the return water line 7 and open the valve 10 on the line 12. For the autumn-winter period, close the valve 10 on the line 12, and open the valve 10 on the line 7.

Fig.4.Scheme of the heating and hot water supply system

1-Heating apparatus; 2-Expansion tank; 3-Signal tube; 4-Riser; 5-Hot water main; 6-Radiator; 7-Main return water; 8-drain line; 9-make-up water supply; 10 - Water valve; 11-Main of hot water supply; 12-Highway of a small circuit.

The sequence of switching on the boiler AOGV-11.6:

– Open the gas cock on the gas pipeline in front of the machine.

– Open the appliance door 7 (Fig.1). Valve 11 in front of the burner must be closed.

– Remove the shield covering the firebox window.

- Press the start button 2 (Fig. 2) to the full and, holding it, bring the lit match to the igniter. The igniter should light up.

– After 60 seconds (counting from the moment the flame appeared on the igniter), release the start button, while the flame on the igniter should not go out. If the flame goes out, repeat the operation no earlier than after 5 minutes.

– Open the gas valve 11 (Fig. 1) of the burner, to do this slowly turn the valve handle 90° counterclockwise (the valve handle must be parallel to the gas pipe).

– The main burner should ignite. If for some reason the burner does not ignite and the igniter goes out, re-ignite no sooner than after 5 minutes.

- Replace the shield.

– Check for draft in the chimney. With normal draft, the flame of a match brought up to the door of the draft interrupter should be drawn into the draft interrupter. In the absence of draft, as well as when hot gases are knocked out of the furnace, it is impossible to use the AOGV-11.6 boiler.

– Turn the adjusting nut 6 (Fig. 2) to set the required water heating temperature. After heating the water to the temperature corresponding to the setting, the gas supply to the burner is automatically reduced and it switches to the “small fire” mode.

- When the temperature of the water in the boiler unit drops (no more than 15 C), as a result of heat extraction during heating or hot water extraction, the gas supply to the burner automatically increases.

When transferring the adjusting nut from the existing temperature to a lower one, in order to exclude possible damage to the “bellows-thermoballoon” assembly, it is necessary:

– close the gas valve 11 (Fig. 1) in front of the burner;

- after lowering the temperature of the water in the tank to the required one, set the adjusting nut to this temperature;

– open the gas cock in front of the burner.

After the AOGV-11.6 boiler is put into operation until the entire heating system is completely warmed up, temporary drops of water may appear from under the bottom of the tank, falling onto the burner and the pan. This is the result of the formation of condensate (sweating) on ​​the walls of the firebox. When water is heated to 25 - 30 ° C, condensation stops.

Fig.5. Scheme for setting automatic water temperature control

1. Adjusting nut, 2. Sleeve, 3. Nut, 4. Screw.

Maintenance of the boiler AOGV-11.6

Maintenance work on the gas boiler AOGV-11.6:

- Preventive inspection and repair of the boiler is carried out by specialists of the gas facilities, the service department of the manufacturer, the service department that has a license (permit) for this type of work.

– It is the responsibility of the owner to supervise the operation of the unit and to keep the unit clean and in good condition.

– At the end of the heating season, flush the heating system with an alkali solution (0.3 kg of soda ash per 10 liters of water). To do this, fill the heating system with the solution and hold for 2 days, then drain the solution and flush the system with water. Fill the heating system with clean
water.

– In case of stopping the operation of the AOGV-11.6 boiler in winter for a long period (over a day), completely drain the water from the heating system and the hot water supply system through the valves 10 drain lines 8 (Fig. 4) to prevent it from freezing.

– Before the start of the heating season, check and clean the chimney, check that there is no dust or debris under the appliance.

– To increase the service life of the unit and economical gas consumption, it is recommended to fill the heating system with clean, chemically non-aggressive water with a carbonate hardness of not more than 2 mg. equiv/l.

– During operation, once a week, check the filling of the system with water to ensure that there is a sufficient water level in the expansion tank. If necessary, add water to the tank.

- Periodically, but at least once every six months (before the start of the heating season), check the accuracy of the thermostat settings of the AOGV-11.6 boiler automation unit. To do this, install a thermometer of any type with a measurement limit of 0 ° - 100 °С (0 ° - 160 °С) in the branch pipe for installing a thermometer 5 (Fig. 1).

– Set the adjusting nut 1 (Fig.5) to 60 C.

– Heat the water in the appliance tank to 60 °C. The burner should switch to “small fire” mode.

– If the readings of the thermometer deviate from the temperature set on the adjustment scale by more than ±5 °C, it is necessary to make adjustments.

– To do this, hold screw 4 (Fig. 5) from turning with a wrench, unscrew nut 3 (Fig. 5) by 1–1.5 turns. By turning the adjusting nut 1 (Fig. 5), align the mark, the temperature of which corresponds to the reading of the thermometer with the arrow.

– Then, holding the sleeve 2 (Fig. 5) from turning, slowly tighten the screw 4 (Fig. 5) until the valve closes in the block. (The burner has switched to the “small fire” mode). Lock adjusting screw 4 with nut 3 (Fig.5).

– Set the adjusting nut to a higher temperature (the burner should go to “full fire”). Remove the thermometer from the device nozzle.

– At least once a year, inspect the inside surface of the coil fitting at the hot water outlet for scale.

To remove scale, pour into the coil the agent for the chemical removal of mineral deposits "REBOUND", the manufacturer is the company "KEMILINE"; a weak solution of hydrochloric acid (3 parts water to 1 part solution) or other similar means. Remove light scale with a mechanical
way. After the scale has been removed, flush the coil with a weak alkali solution, then with water.

0:30 Trying to fix the valve before repair
1:05 Thermocouple voltage measurement
1:35 AOGV automation dismantling
3:25 Repair (spring compression)
3:55 Assembly of AOGV automation
5:44 Checking the contact between the valve coil and the thermocouple
6:06 The result of the repair of AOGV automation and summing up

After filming the first video about the automation of the AOGV boiler, which you can watch by clicking on the link below, I started restoring it. The most common problem of AOGV automation is the poor operation of the solenoid valve and its false operation and attenuation of the boiler. I had a similar situation and I solved it by soldering the coil itself, which I talk about in the first video. During the repair of the AOGV automation unit, I accidentally rubbed chips into the inside, which prevented the tight fit of the gas valve, which led to a gas leak, and I began to disassemble. Having examined the insides of the AOGV automation, I realized that if you have a working solenoid valve and a thermocouple, but still there is no proper retention of the gas valve by the solenoid valve, then you can try to compress the gas valve spring, which in my case was a success. See how I did it.

Be sure to check out the first video: <>

Video Automation boiler AOGV do-it-yourself repair channel Samodelkin Uman

Question: Problems with the thermostat of the gas boiler AOGV 29 Rostov. After replacing the heat exchanger, the water in the boiler is heated to the set temperature of 70 degrees and the burner is turned off. Re-enabling occurs at a temperature of 40. Tell me, is it possible and how to adjust the thermostat for a temperature difference of 10-15 degrees?

Answer: Change the thermostat. When you took it off, you should have looked at the carving area. I give a guarantee that it has half-decayed over these 15 years. And inside the working part.If now the difference is about 30 degrees, then it will be more and in one day it will stop working altogether.

Question: An AOGV 11.6-3 boiler is installed in a private house. In the autumn, when they turned on the low gas, there were no problems at all. Then it got colder (up to -15 degrees), the batteries are hot, the houses are very warm, in short, everything seems to be fine and no one expected any catch. Then an unexpected warming (0. -2) atmospheric pressure drops to 740 mm Hg and the boiler stops working in normal mode 🙁 even at low gas.

The flame on one side constantly goes out (as if blowing out) and flares up again, the igniter burns evenly, if you turn on the gas more strongly, the flame begins to escape from the boiler into the ignition window, as a result, the gas is turned on very quietly, the door is open (like the window in the kitchen) for air suction and the house is cold. By the way, she didn’t say that in the fall we turned on the boiler to the fullest, tried it, and there were no problems.

Our assumption is that there is not enough traction and there may be problems with the burner. In addition, water drips onto the burner, from where, we do not know. It is very similar to condensate inside the pipe, when the boiler is turned off, water does not drip. Tell me what can be done? There is no way to get and clean the burner from the boiler - everything is tightly welded. How can you increase traction? We only have one idea - to put a fan on the boiler pipe

Answer: 100% the problem is traction. Solutions: Eliminate all possible “sucks”, i.e. there must be no holes in the pipe or in the chimney fittings. Insulate the pipe. Extend the pipe.

The fan will not work normally, this is not a smoke exhauster, and you won’t pick up the characteristics. One more moment. Working at low gas pressure is also bad. Because of this, the temperature of the exhaust gases drops. Try to work for some time at high power, dry the pipe, and then do not reduce the gas pressure, but reduce the temperature on the thermostat. Let the boiler turn on and off, this is a feature of cheap models, the burners and automation in them only work on turning on and off, and not with modulation, as, for example, in wall-mounted boilers.

Question: The AOGV-23 boiler is turned off completely - the wick and the burner. What could be the reason? The thermocouple is intact, how can I check the solenoid valve (EMC)?

Answer: Remove EMC and thermocouple. Connect the thermocouple to the EMC and to the gas stove, heat the working end of the thermocouple. Hold for 30 seconds, if the button is stuck - the flight is normal, everything will work, no - check the EMC and thermocouple. The solenoid valve most likely needs to be disassembled and the working surfaces cleaned with fine sandpaper so that the working surfaces are even. Also see if it is torn off and where the thermocouple is twisted.

Question: We have installed and connected the AOGV gas boiler with skif automation. The boiler has been in operation for exactly a year, a problem has begun in the operation of the automation, when it is turned on, the piezo ignition occurs, the burners ignite, and the ignition continues to work and after a few seconds the boiler goes out, after several such starts it seems to start working, but after a temperature automatic shutdown at the next auto start it goes out again. Can you help or advise what to do?

Answer: Your boiler “does not see” the flame. Possible reasons: 1. ionization electrode not in flame; 2. The ionization electrode is dirty; 3. poor contact in the ionization electrode circuit. The third option is the most likely - the wires burn out.

Question: Tell me the reason - the AOGV-11.6 boiler, after replacing the thermostat, there was just a huge difference between the on-off of the boiler, it cools down to 25 degrees, did you really buy a defective thermostat?

Answer: Yes, you need to check the thermostat.

Question: We launched and set up the gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3. This winter, the hot water coil thawed, advise what to do, buy a new one or have it repaired.

Answer: I do not advise anyone to repair boilers using welding. Although there are welders who say that they welded such boilers outside the factory, that is, on their own.Therefore, I advise either to buy a new boiler or to upgrade the system with an old boiler by installing an indirect heating boiler for domestic hot water. But for starters, be sure to pressurize the boiler, after defrosting it is very desirable. If after pressing it leaks, then change it to a new one.

Question: I turn on the main burner, the gas comes out with some kind of noise, the flame in the igniter is unstable and the thermocouple cools down and turns off everything. Soot forms quickly. By the way, the flame climbs into the viewing window. Currently running at low speed. Ladies more - turn off.

Answer: The magnetic valve is poorly held. When the igniter is lit, it works (stuck). But you turn on the main burner and knock it down with a stream of gas (snaps off). This can happen either immediately or after 5 minutes or 2 days. It is necessary to remove the blocking membrane inside and tie the button with a wire. Should work.

Question: Please tell me about this question - when you hold the start button, the wick lights up, and after the button is released after 30 seconds or more, the main burner does not light up and the wick goes out.

Answer: Try replacing the thermocouple.

Question: Automation of the AOGV boiler. There is a problem: the button of the ignition solenoid valve has ceased to be held. What I checked: I bought a new thermocouple (as it turned out in vain, the old working one). The thermocouple produces an EMF of 25-30mV, normal. I screwed the thermocouple to the EMC valve, on the second
at the end of the valve (which goes to the thrust sensor), i.e. through the winding and core of the EMC, the EMF remains 25-30mV. It also seems to be correct, which means there is no break in the EMC. The wire that goes to the draft sensor is called with the body (i.e. resistance 0, i.e. the sensor is not open, i.e. working). Damn, not
works anyway.

It seems that the core itself has broken, but the same cannot be, there is nothing to break there. Help advice. How it works: Cable to the right to the draft sensor. The idea of ​​​​the boiler: while there is gas, the igniter is on, it heats the thermocouple, it generates an EMF (I have 30mV), the current passes through the winding, goes through to the draft sensor, if it is in order, then it is closed to the ground (boiler body), the current goes out through it to the body. Passing through the valve core with a winding, it keeps the washer with the stem pressed, the gas reaches the burner. If the puck does not hold, the flame goes out.

To test the valve, I decided to connect a battery to it instead of a thermocouple. I haven't gotten to AOGV yet, but I checked it on the removed valve. Connected the battery. The second ends of the battery and the valve are also closed to each other, i.e., he made a closed battery-EMC circuit. The puck is magnetized, but badly. Obviously, there is not enough effort to keep the rod pressed in the AOGV. I drove into a gas store, bought a new EMK the same. 1500r worth. He was also connected - one to one picture, also barely attracted. Although the instructions for the new valve say that the pull-off force is 1.9kg with an EMF from a thermocouple of 18mV + -2mV. What to do?

Answer: The coil is exactly intact if it has not been mechanically damaged. And therefore: either there is no contact somewhere, or when you press the button, do not press it all the way, i.e. the washer does not adjoin the EMC. You need to solder all the contacts.

Question: I would like to share a problem with the Siberia AOGV-11 6-3 boiler. Lately, the boiler is turned off, the gas workers, upon inspection, say the thermocouple is faulty. Didn't find the right one. I need a Sit 200 L 300 thermocouple. Can anyone help me with the purchase?

Answer: No, it may not be the problem. How long does the boiler work? Disconnect the wires that are there, solder the wires to the terminals. Check how the pilot burner works. there is a possibility that the air intake hole is clogged, the jet is clogged and a small wick goes to the thermocouple (missing). The adapter where the thermocouple is screwed must be tightened. In general, check the entire chain from the igniter to the gas valve. You most likely have contact oxidation.

Question: The AOGV-11.6-3 boiler does not turn on. The water temperature drops sharply, and the boiler does not turn on. turning the temperature control knob did not help either, what should I do?

Answer: Decided as follows.I had to open the regulator (a metal box under the button), understand the device and press the plate there. Everything worked. The box has a lid with 4 screws. With rubber seal. Turn off the gas, unscrew 4 screws, pry off the cover and remove it. Be careful with the gasket, do not damage. And figure it out before you bend. Then everything is in place and check if it is poisoning from under the covers.

My symptoms were like this. This boiler regulates the temperature by switching on time. And now it began to turn on less and less, despite the setting “to the maximum”. Then he got up completely, but the wick burned regularly. I cleaned it wherever I could - it didn't help. I had to open it. But I had no choice, it was -30 on the street, Sunday evening, you could not call anyone and there was already a thumper in the house. In your case, I would call the wizard.

Question: When trying to ignite, gas does not flow, it looks like the valve is sticking. It looks like this: the valve to the burner is open, I press the gas supply button, but the gas does not hiss through the burner. Only after a few presses and sharp releases of the button does the gas begin to flow, I close the valve and set fire to the igniter. Should I change the valve?

I could not find the internal device of the regulator, I don’t really want to call the next repairmen. What would you recommend to get started? Disassemble, inspect, clean? There was an idea after the gas cock on the burner to install a normally open valve to control the automatic thermostat.

Answer: Do not experiment with an open tap on the burner when lighting up. Someday it may end in an explosion. The tap on the burner must be closed during ignition. Purge of the gas pipeline is carried out through a hose to the street, if purge is needed. No smoking and all
fire prevention. When the rod is fully pressed, protection against absent-mindedness works, the second valve closes the gas supply to the burner, while gas continues to flow to the igniter.

When released, the stem rises slightly, freeing the passage of gas to the burner, on the other hand, the stem
held in the middle position by the core. That is, for the passage of gas to the burner, the middle position of the rod is needed. In the pressed state, the gas is completely blocked, in the extreme pressed state, it enters only the igniter. In the middle position, gas flows to the igniter and burner (if the valve is open).