Aogv 11 6 DIY repair

Here is a complete description of the gas valve bulkhead. Economy for the gas boiler AOGV Zhukovsky. And in all our subsequent work with you, regarding the diagnosis of unit malfunctions, we will constantly refer to this article in order to get to the true cause of the boiler malfunctioning and quickly defeat the cold making its way into the house.

So! To begin with, consider the insides of the valve in the first small diagram, by the way, kindly provided to us by the Zhukovsky plant. It is not very comfortable, but nonetheless.

How does a gas valve work?

1. Starting the igniter. Push the button of the solenoid valve (22). When pressed, the valve needle will push down through the sealed diaphragm (25) onto the stem of the upper valve (24) and the gas, through the slots in the seat (the seat is not shown in the diagram) of the upper valve (24) will rush into the hole leading to the pilot. It should be noted right away that the position of the top valve (24) is normally closed. If the button is released, the spring will push it back. And the position of the bottom valve is normally open. Another spring opens it until it is closed when the boiler is heated by the “accordion” expansion of the temperature of the bellows-thermocylinder. The O-ring (28) is a sealed gasket between the top valve seat and the body of the block. After the igniter has lit up, the thermocouple has heated up, and we have released the valve button (22), which has remained in the pressed position, you can proceed to start the main burner.

On gas boilers AOGV Econom, a gas valve is cut into the gas pipeline between the gas block and the burner. When starting the igniter on a cold boiler, this gas cock must be closed. This is to ensure that the gas does not split between the igniter and the burner. To ignite the igniter confidently. We open the tap, the burner lights up. If the boiler starts up hot, then the lower valve of the block can be closed. It is kept in this state by a warmed-up thermowell-bellows. In this case, the main burner will start when the temperature control knob is turned in the direction of increasing the temperature.

2. Setting and adjusting the operating temperature. After the burner has lit up and the boiler has started to work, the question arises, what will happen next? Then the following happens. The lower valve (23) on a cold boiler is always initially normally open, because it is squeezed out by a spring. This valve will close only when the “accordion” of the bellows-thermo bulb, expanding when the set temperature is set, presses with its stem, which goes inside the valve body, through the seal (27) on the lever, which will begin to close and close the lower valve (23), and the burner will go out. By turning the knob of the temperature regulator of the bellows-thermal bulb, you are able to set any temperature within the permitted range, i.e. to enable the bellows-thermo-balloon “accordion” to press on the stem and close the lower valve both at + 35C and + 90C.

3. Idling. When the lower valve (23) is closed, gas access to the boiler burner is closed, and the boiler remains operating only on the igniter. Transferring heat to the heat carrier of the heating system, the boiler gradually cools down. The "accordion" of the thermal bellows gradually shrinks. The spring of the lower valve (23) tends to push it down, to the open position, and when the spring force is higher than the force of the “accordion” of the bellows-thermal bulb, the valve will move and open the gas access to the burner, which will “light up” from the igniter flame. With the scheme finished.

Now so. Everything that you will see here now represents the foundation on which the correct diagnosis of any malfunction can only be built.associated with the operation of the gas valve AOGV Econom. All other assumptions not based on this knowledge are usually wrong. They either entail absolutely useless waste of time and money, and if successfully implemented, they still do not provide reliability. And the Econom valve is a great and extremely reliable thing. Make sure now.

Functionally, the block consists of two parts. Top and bottom. The first part, the top one, is the hardest part. We need two things: attention and accuracy. There is no rush.

Top part. Remove the solenoid valve from above. When separating the valve, we hold the needle sticking out downward so that it does not fall out. (More details here.)

We take out the rubber membrane. She sits pretty tightly. We are not afraid! Carefully, so as not to damage, we pick it out from there.

Under the membrane we see a plastic cap, into which, when pressed, the needle of the solenoid valve rests. We take out the cap.

Next, we see the upper inner sleeve. The sleeve sits loosely. We take it out. When we take it out, we see that the bushing has a hole for the passage of gas inside our gas block.

This is the hole. When reassembling, these holes, of course, must be aligned. Next, we see a sealing rubber ring between the block body and the upper valve seat. The top valve, when pressed, allows gas to the pilot. The saddle has slots. It is through these slots that the gas goes down, and with the upper valve open, it goes to the igniter. We take a screwdriver and pry this thing right behind the slots.

The top valve seat and the top valve itself are in our hands. If the gas goes down through the slots in the seat, we understand that the working surface of the upper valve is in contact with the seat from below. After that, calmly take out the lower sleeve and see a hole in it. Where does it lead to? Right. To the igniter. This hole is located clearly opposite the fitting, onto which we then screw the boiler igniter nut.

If we look inside the block after all the above manipulations, we will see the bottom valve seat with holes for gas passage to the main burner.

For a more complete understanding, we give a small layout of the elements in the next photo.

1. Bottom valve seat O-ring. Should be between block body and bottom valve seat.

2. Hole through which gas initially enters the unit. This hole should be aligned with the hole in the top bushing. otherwise, the gas simply will not enter the block.

3. These are the holes in the bottom valve seat for the gas to pass to the main burner.

5. Fitting leading gas to the igniter.

6. A hole allowing gas to pass to the igniter. It must be aligned with the hole in the lower bushing of the block.

It should also be noted that at the gas inlet to the block, in the place where the entire block is attached to our boiler, a mesh filter is installed at the inlet.

Now let's move on to the second half of our block.

Bottom part. Remove the valve cover by unscrewing 6 screws.

An amazing picture arises before our eyes that answers the question "What is an Economy gas valve?" Answer: Nothing! The word "Nothing" is meant in an exclusively joyful and positive aspect. I mean its simplicity, accessibility to understanding, even if you like - the beauty of the solution. And most importantly, the independence of the operation of this device from anything. We prove our words.

1. This is a gas pipe through which gas flows to the main burner of the boiler when the lower valve is opened.

2. This is the bottom valve itself. Moreover, it is worth noting that its working surface is on top. That is, when closed, the valve is firmly pressed against the upper seat. The bottom valve is now open, as we filmed it all on a cold boiler.

3. Lever. We call this the bottom valve rocker.

4. A very important thing. A pin resembling an ordinary nail.

5. Sylphion-thermocylinder stem.

Now let's get back to the question of how our gas valve works.

1. Starting the igniter. The start and operation of the igniter belongs entirely to the upper part of the gas block. Pressing the button, starting the gas, igniting the igniter, heating the thermocouple and, as a result of this, fixing the button in the pressed position refers to the operation of the upper valve, thermocouple, solenoid valve and that's it.

2. Setting and adjusting the operating temperature. As we can see from the photo taken on a cold boiler, the bottom valve is always open. Those. when you press the button and start the gas to the igniter, part of the gas will go to the burner. To prevent this from happening, there is a gas cock between the gas block and the burner. By the way, this tap is present only at the boilers of the Zhukovsky plant. And then so. See that the stem of the thermal bellows (5) is missing to the rocker arm (3)? When the boiler reaches the set temperature, the bellows-thermo-bulb “accordion” will begin to move apart, pressing on the rocker arm, it will displace the lower valve (2) until it is completely closed. When gas access to the burner is completely closed by the lower valve, the boiler remains at idle speed. Only the igniter works. When the boiler cools down, the “accordion” is compressed, and the lower valve is slightly opened by a spring installed on the valve stem. The burner starts up.

Let's continue. We take the pliers and easily remove the rocker pin. By the way, over time, it starts to jam. Lubricate it or replace with any nail that fits the diameter. We remove the rocker with a screwdriver towards ourselves. As soon as we release the rocker arm, the bottom valve will fall down.

We take the lower valve in our hands. It is no different from the top, except for the length of the stem. Want to change your aperture? It's easy. We pull off the ring that fixes and at the same time tightens the diaphragm.

In this photo, you can clearly see the trail of castor oil to see where the working surface of the valve is in order to evenly tighten the diaphragm with the ring.

So. There is still one thing left. Replacing the stem seal of the thermal bellows assembly. We take out the stock with pliers. We pick out the gum of the seal with a thin screwdriver. We just take it out. We see the place where it lies. We put a new one.
See also here what to do if the temperature regulator knob is jammed in the Economy ZhMZ block

When reassembling, do not forget to align the holes on the bushings with the working holes of the igniter and gas inlet to the block.

Prologue. There is no device in the world that is simpler and more reliable than this thing. It is a pity when we are forced to bring and sell assembled gas valves, instead of unscrewing 10 screws (4 for the magnetic box and 6 for the valve cover), go over, find and see the malfunction and do everything 10 times cheaper than it costs in a new form at the factory.

Golden Rule. In gas technology, problems are not shut up only with money! They are also solved with the head. You can spend money, and the effect of this will be ZERO. It is clear that it is difficult to adapt to this. Well, actually, the article was written for this. )))))

Promise. We personally with you, with our own hands, a little later, will definitely pick (and there is no doubt about that) a couple of imported valves. So that someone does not yell at us about how this valve is more reliable than the valve that we just disassembled.

Gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3: instructions for use

In Russia and throughout the post-Soviet space, along with the old "Soviet" heating boilers AGV, gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3 Rostov or Zhukovsky are widespread and various reviews. These devices run on gas, and it is known to be the cheapest type of fuel today. In addition, AOGV boilers are quite unpretentious and do not require any special conditions for their operation.

In this article, we will try to understand the AOGV boilers, what it is, consider the technical characteristics of the AOGV-11.6 non-volatile gas heating boilers, disadvantages, prices and draw up instructions for use for ourselves.

AOGV what is it

To many of those who are puzzled by the purchase of a gas boiler AOGV, at first such a name of the boiler may seem incomprehensible. In fact, everything is simple.

AOGV is an abbreviation, its decoding is Gas Water Heating Heating Apparatus. The number after this abbreviation indicates the capacity of the gas boiler. For example, the decoding of the abbreviation AOGV-11.6 indicates that this gas heating device has a capacity of 11.6 kW, AOGV-17.4, respectively 17.4 kW, etc.

Consider boilers AOGV using the example of popular boilers manufactured at the plant in the city of Zhukovsky, produced by ZhMZ.

AOGV-11.6-3 boilers of the Comfort, Universal and Economy series

Non-volatile gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3 are designed for heating a private house, garage or other premises. Available in floor-standing version only. Domestic versions of gas boilers have a range from 11 to 29 kW of power. The main fuel for the AOGV boiler is natural gas.

The water is heated using a gas burner located under the heat exchanger tank at the bottom of the boiler. When replacing the gas burner nozzles, it is possible to use the boiler with liquefied gas. The boiler body and heat exchanger are made of steel. The heat exchanger for heating water has a tubular structure, which contributes to its fairly high efficiency.

The inlet and outlet fittings for connecting the heating agent are located on the back of the boiler body. The diameter of these fittings is 40 mm or 1 1/2 inches. At the bottom is the "return", at the top - "straight". The flue duct is connected to the upper part of the AOGV boiler body, the diameter of the flue must be at least 120 mm.

The boilers are produced both single-circuit and double-circuit: under the name AKGV-11.6-3. The latter are intended for both heating and hot water supply.

Double-circuit gas boilers AKGV with a power of 11 kW will give you 4-5 liters of warm water per minute. This, of course, is enough, for example, to wash your hands or dishes, but no more.

What is the difference between floor-standing gas boilers AOGV

So, in everyday life, heating boilers AOGV-11.6-3 of the Economy and Universal series are most common. The main difference between these series lies in the types of automation installed on the boilers.

Gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3 Economy have domestic automation. The operation of this boiler is controlled by a thermostat handle and an electromagnetic valve, to which a draft sensor and a thermocouple are connected.

The thermocouple is an important element of the AOGV gas boiler automation. It is made of copper and resembles a thick bar in shape. Serves to control the presence of a flame on the igniter. If the thrust level decreases, the thrust sensor is triggered and the solenoid valve shuts off the gas supply.

Boiler automatics AOGV-11.6-3 series Economy

Boiler AOGV-11.6-3 Station wagon with Sit automation

The AOGV and AKGV boilers of the Comfort series are equipped with American Honeywell automation, which also has a built-in piezoelectric element, but a slightly different design.

Advantages of boilers AOGV-11.6-3

- the ability to work in systems with natural and forced circulation

- compatible with any material of which the heating system is made (steel, cast iron, polypropylene, metal-plastic)

- the ability to work on natural and liquefied gas

Disadvantages of AOGV boilers

- outdated automation on boilers of the Economy series

- it is difficult to find spare parts if you need to replace them in case of a malfunction

- quite high price compared to competitors

AOGV-11.6 boilers: product price

To date, the purchase of a single-circuit gas boiler of the Economy series will cost 11-12 thousand rubles, the Universal series 13-14 thousand. The price is indicated as of September 2014.

In this article, we have compiled instructions for boilers AOGV-11.6-3, disassembled the principle of operation, the main advantages and disadvantages, as well as technical characteristics and prices. And in conclusion, let's watch a short video review.

Floor standing gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3 are single-circuit units with a rated power of 11.6 kW. The device is capable of operating from both natural and liquefied gas at a very economical consumption. Today it is the best option for heating a house with an area of ​​up to 110 sq. m. At the same time, the unit has acceptable dimensions (850x310x412 mm), which makes it easy to find a place for it in the house and facilitates the installation of the boiler.

In general, AOGV-11.6-3 are distinguished by their reliability and practicality; these heating devices are time-tested and ideally suited for operation in Russia. AOGV boilers do not require any special conditions for operation. However, after several years of operation, it may be necessary to clean the unit with all accessories from soot and other contaminants.

How quickly soot will accumulate in your AOGV depends on several reasons, including the initially correct installation of the device. The process of cleaning AOGV is not so complicated, so it is advisable to carry it out regularly, at least for prophylaxis, before the start of each heating season.

When starting the procedure for cleaning a gas boiler, be more careful about the details of any design in the unit. Everything has its purpose, and ill-considered actions can lead to emergency situations.

Before proceeding with any action, shut off the gas supply from the household wiring. To clean the AOGV-11.6-3, you will have to disassemble the unit:

• dismantle the burner block in order to mechanically clean the igniter nozzle;
• remove the top cover of the boiler to clean it from soot.

To remove the burner block, you need to turn the boiler pan and disconnect the pilot tube, gas tube and thermocouple contact tube from the automation unit. Then carefully unscrew the nuts on the fittings of the automation unit.

Remove the paronite gasket on the main gas pipe and check its condition. Check the gasket for wear and on the flare tube it will most likely remain on the tee fitting.

After disassembling this unit, the pallet can be easily rotated and through the groove closest to the pipes the holder is removed from engagement with the casing. While supporting the pallet underneath, push it slightly towards you and disengage the other two holders. Lower the entire unit to the floor and carefully pull it out between the boiler legs.

1. Check the condition of the main burner, clean if necessary. Then inspect the pilot flame nozzle.
2. Unscrew the two screws (wick and thermocouple) holding this assembly in position. For easier loosening, process the WD-40 screws, the process will go much easier.
3. Remove the canopy from the pilot burner to gain access to the nozzle. If necessary, remove any plaque from the brass nozzle effortlessly with fine sandpaper.
4. Clean the nozzle itself with a thin copper wire and blow it under pressure with a pump from the side where the tube is connected to the tee.
5. While there is free access, very carefully clean the bend of the thermocouple tube with fine sandpaper, there may be a small layer of oxide.

Reassemble all assemblies carefully in reverse order. Lift the entire assembly up slowly without skewing so that the burner goes into the housing and the igniter and thermocouple assembly does not snag on the casing flange. Standing on the side of the pipes, slightly push the entire assembly towards you with a slight downward slope so that the opposite edge of the pallet rises slightly.

While feeding the pallet forward, simultaneously put on the two far hooks so that they go over the flange of the casing. Direct the hook closest to you into the cut-out groove, and when it enters it, turn the entire pallet counterclockwise. The gas pipe should be directly under its branch pipe of the automation unit.

Check the presence and proper fit of the gaskets and reinstall all tubes. Use a wrench to tighten the nuts on the ignition tube and on the gas supply tube.Before reinstalling the thermocouple tube, very carefully clean the pads of the thermocouple tube. It is recommended to tighten this nut not with a wrench, but with your fingers.

Check the tightness of the connections for possible gas leaks and start the boiler.

First of all, to clean the AOGV boiler, remove the umbrella that goes into the metal part of the chimney. When the umbrella connecting the boiler to the chimney is removed, already under the umbrella itself you will see deposits of soot, which must also be cleaned off.

Then remove the top cover of the boiler. To do this, first disconnect and dismantle the draft sensor, if the retaining screws cannot be unscrewed, remove the cover together with the sensor. To do this, use a 14 wrench to unscrew the nut connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit.

Check the paronite gasket for wear. Disconnect the draft sensor tube. Unscrew the self-tapping screws securing the cover to the boiler casing. Clean the back of the cover.

Remove the boiler water heat exchanger cover. Its fasteners - metal wedges - are easily reduced to the center and the wedge is removed from the slot. Remove all stoppers in the same way and remove the cover. A small gap that opens between the heat exchanger and the cover can be tightly clogged with soot.

Remove the gas flow turbulators from the heat exchanger channels. Remove the boiler pan with the burner block. Now you can proceed directly to cleaning all the components of the AOGV boiler.

For this operation, you will need a regular plastic bottle brush. It is available at your local hardware store and is great for cleaning vertical ducts. Tie it to a wooden stick with duct tape so that you can easily pass the channels along their entire height. In order not to dissolve excess dirt in the boiler room, take out everything that can be transferred to the yard for cleaning.

1. Begin cleaning from the top of the heat exchanger, scrubbing and sweeping down all the soot.
2. Then comes the turn of cleaning the channels. Soot from the walls will move away easily enough if it has not yet hardened, otherwise you will have to make some effort.
3. After completing the cleaning process of the boiler itself, go to the removed assemblies and parts. Clean the top cover of the heat exchanger. After that, remove the soot deposits on the top cover of the boiler itself and from the bell.
4. With the last brush, brush away the soot attacking from above from the burner block, the burner itself is already clean.

Immediately lightly clean the tube with fine sandpaper. This completes the cleaning process of the boiler and its parts. Go to the reassembly of the AOGV boiler.

To reassemble the boiler, first replace the burner block, as described above. Immediately connect all the pipes as expected, check the gaskets that they are all in place and not worn out, tighten the screws and nuts.

Replace the turbulators. The heat exchanger channel is now clean and the edge of the gas burner is clearly visible from below. It is simply impossible to make a mistake with the installation of turbulators. Simply insert them into the channels, they are held in them by the expansion of the central metal plate located on top. Insert so that the plate is oriented along the radius of the cylindrical heat exchanger, that is, the blades will be positioned approximately tangentially to the circle.

In the next step, replace the heat exchanger cover. In this case, the lugs for the latches must go into the slots of the cover. Insert metal cotter pins into the slots of the lugs and tap them slightly from the back. The cover should fit as tightly as possible to the heat exchanger. In conclusion, use pliers to part the antennae - and that's it, the lid will be securely fixed.

Then replace the top cover of the boiler. With its correct position, you will be helped to orient the holes from the self-tapping screws that came out normally. If the draft sensor has not been removed from you and is already in its place, you will only have to connect its tube to the tee and tighten the nut to fix it.

Complete the boiler assembly by installing the hood.Slip it under the pipe, put it on its socket, it should fit very tightly, then carefully put it in place. Make sure that the three projections on the cap fit into the corresponding holes in the boiler cap. In this case, the cut out semicircular window will be above the passing tube of the temperature sensor.

After that, of course, check all connections for leaks and proceed to starting the boiler. If the wick lights up immediately, and after 15 seconds the solenoid valve works, then the start went well.

Open the gas supply valve. The burner should ignite easily, and the fire should burn evenly, with the same height of the flames. Moreover, it is important that the tongues of flame are directed exactly upwards, and not to the sides. This means that the automation has worked perfectly, the cleaned boiler is working as expected.

Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.

Installation and connection of the gas boiler AOGV-11.6 to communication systems

Works performed for the installation of the AOGV-11.6 boiler:

- Remove the preservative grease and wipe the device with dry material.

- Place the unit vertically and check the vertical level. Install shield 15 (Fig. 1) at the bottom of the tank.

- Install the draft breaker 1 (Fig. 1) on the boiler, ensuring that it is in a strictly vertical position. The end of the door of the traction breaker 2 should not protrude outward and should deviate from the nominal position inside the traction breaker by no more than 1-2 mm.

- The door of the traction breaker must rotate easily on the axle. The casing 3 should not touch the bimetallic plate of the draft sensor 4.

- Connect the AOGV-11.6 boiler to the chimney, gas pipeline and pipes of the heating system (CO) and hot water supply (DHW). A gas valve must be installed on the gas supply pipe in front of the unit, blocking gas access to the unit.

- The connecting pipes of the pipelines must be exactly matched to the location of the inlet connections of the device. The connection should not be accompanied by mutual interference of pipes and unit assemblies.

- Fill the pipe for installing the thermometer 5 with machine oil or automobile oil (the volume of oil to be filled in is 15 cm3).

- Fill the heating system with water. The filling control of the heating system is carried out through the signal pipe 3 (Fig. 4).

- After installing the AOGV-11.6 boiler, check the gas and water supply lines for tightness. Check the tightness of the gas pipelines using a soapy emulsion. Do not use fire to detect gas leaks.

- Set the adjusting nut 6 (Fig. 2) of the automation unit to the required water temperature in the boiler.

- Carry out sequential switching on of the unit.

- Check that the pilot flame intensively flushes the end of the thermocouple and provides instant (no more than 2 seconds) ignition of the burner over the entire surface.

- Check the actuation of the AOGV-11.6 boiler automatics in terms of draft. Gas cut-off to the igniter and the main burner should occur within no more than 60 seconds. and not less than 10 sec. If necessary, adjust the response time of the draft sensor.

- When the device is operating for heating and hot water supply, water for household needs must be supplied for a short time (the duration of one cycle of hot water intake is no more than 1.5 hours) in order to avoid disruption of the temperature regime of the heating system.

- In case of long-term withdrawal of hot water, we recommend: to increase the temperature and volume of hot water, pre-set the adjusting nut 6 (Fig. 2) to a temperature of 90 C and close the valve 10 (Fig. 4) on the return water line 7 in the heating system.

- After the end of hot water intake, open valve 10 on the return water line 7 to restore water circulation in the heating system and set the adjusting nut 6 (Fig. 2) to the required temperature.

- For the summer period, close valve 10 (Fig. 4) on the return water line 7 and open valve 10 on the line 12.For the autumn-winter period, close valve 10 on line 12, and open valve 10 on line 7.

Fig. 4. Heating and hot water supply system diagram

1-Heating device; 2-expansion tank; 3-signal tube; 4-riser; 5-Hot water main; 6-Radiator; 7-Return water main; 8-Drain line; 9-Make-up water supply; 10-valve water supply; 11-Main hot water supply; 12-Main line of a small contour.

The sequence of switching on the boiler AOGV-11.6:

- Open the gas cock on the gas pipeline in front of the device.

- Open the door of the appliance 7 (Fig. 1). The valve 11 in front of the burner must be closed.

- Remove the shield covering the firebox window.

- Press the start button 2 (Fig. 2) until it stops and, while holding it, bring the lighted match to the igniter. The pilot should ignite.

- After 60 seconds (counting from the moment the flame appears on the igniter), release the start button, while the flame on the igniter should not go out. If the flame goes out, repeat the operation no earlier than after 5 minutes.

- Open the gas valve 11 (Fig. 1) of the burner, for which smoothly turn the valve handle 90 ° counterclockwise (the valve handle must be parallel to the gas pipe).

- The main burner should light up. If the burner does not light up for any reason, and the igniter goes out, repeat the ignition no earlier than 5 minutes later.

- Refit the cover.

- Check for draft in the chimney. With normal draft, the flame of a match brought to the door of the traction interrupter should be drawn into the traction interrupter. In the absence of draft, as well as when knocking out hot gases from the furnace, it is impossible to use the AOGV-11.6 boiler.

- By turning the adjusting nut 6 (Fig. 2), set the required water heating temperature. After heating the water to the temperature corresponding to the setting, the gas supply to the burner is automatically reduced and it switches to the “low fire” mode.

- When the water temperature in the boiler unit drops (no more than 15 C) as a result of heat extraction during heating or hot water extraction, the gas supply to the burner automatically increases.

When transferring the adjusting nut from the existing temperature to a lower one, in order to exclude possible damage to the “bellows-thermocylinder” assembly, it is necessary:

- close the gas valve 11 (Fig. 1) in front of the burner;

- after lowering the water temperature in the tank to the required one, set the adjusting nut to this temperature;

- open the gas cock in front of the burner.

After starting the AOGV-11.6 boiler into operation until the entire heating system has completely warmed up, there may be a temporary appearance of water drops from under the bottom of the tank falling onto the burner and the sump. This is the result of condensation (sweating) on ​​the walls of the firebox. When water is heated to 25 - 30 ° C, condensation stops.

Fig. 5. Scheme for setting up automatic water temperature control

1. Adjusting nut, 2. Bushing, 3. Nut, 4. Screw.

Maintenance of the AOGV-11.6 boiler

Maintenance works of the gas boiler AOGV-11.6:

- Preventive inspection and repair of the boiler is carried out by specialists of the gas industry, the service department of the manufacturer, the service department having a license (permit) for this type of work.

- Monitoring the operation of the unit is the responsibility of the owner, who is obliged to keep the unit clean and in good condition.

- At the end of the heating season, flush the heating system with an alkali solution (0.3 kg of soda ash per 10 liters of water). To do this, fill the heating system with a solution and keep it for 2 days, then drain the solution and flush the system with water. Fill the heating system with a clean
water.

- If the AOGV-11.6 boiler stops operating in winter for a long period (over a day), completely drain the water from the heating system and the hot water supply system through valves 10 drain lines 8 (Fig. 4) to prevent it from freezing.

- Before the start of the heating season, check and clean the chimney, check that there is no dust or debris under the appliance.

- To increase the service life of the unit and economical gas consumption, it is recommended to fill the heating system with clean, chemically non-aggressive water with a carbonate hardness of no more than 2 mg. eq / l.

- During operation, once a week, check the filling of the system with water by the presence of a sufficient water level in the expansion tank. Add water to the reservoir if necessary.

- Periodically, but at least once every six months (before the start of the heating season), check the accuracy of the thermostat setting of the AOGV-11.6 boiler automation unit. To do this, install a thermometer of any type with a measurement range of 0 ° - 100 ° C (0 ° - 160 ° C) in the nozzle for installing the thermometer 5 (Fig. 1).

- Set the adjusting nut 1 (Fig. 5) to 60 C.

- Heat the water in the tank of the device to 60 ° C. The burner should go to “low fire” mode.

- If the thermometer readings deviate from the temperature set on the adjustment scale by more than ± 5 ° C, it is necessary to re-adjust.

- To do this, while holding screw 4 (Fig. 5) with a wrench, unscrew nut 3 (Fig. 5) by 1 - 1.5 turns. Turning the adjusting nut 1 (Fig. 5), align the risk, the temperature of which corresponds to the reading of the thermometer with the arrow.

- Then, keeping the bushing 2 (Fig. 5) from turning with a wrench, slowly tighten the screw 4 (Fig. 5) until the valve closes in the block. (The burner has switched to “low fire” mode). Lock the adjusting screw 4 with the nut 3 (Fig. 5).

- Set the adjusting nut to a higher temperature (the burner must go to “full fire”). Remove the thermometer from the device connection.

- At least once a year, inspect the condition of the inner surface of the coil connection at the hot water outlet for scale.

To remove scale, fill the coil with REBAUND, a chemical remover of mineral deposits, manufactured by KEMILINE; a weak solution of hydrochloric acid (3 parts of water to 1 part of solution) or other similar means. Remove light limescale with mechanical
way. After the scale is removed, flush the coil with a weak alkali solution, then with water.

0:30 Attempt to fix the valve before repair
1:05 Measure the voltage of the thermocouple
1:35 Dismantling the automatic equipment AOGV
3:25 Repair (spring compression)
3:55 Assembly of AOGV automation
5:44 Checking the contact between valve coil and thermocouple
6:06 The result of the repair of AOGV automation and summing up

After filming the first video about the automation of the AOGV boiler, which you can see by clicking on the link below, I started restoring it. The most common problem in the AOGV automation is the poor operation of the solenoid valve and its false triggering and damping of the boiler. I had a similar situation and I solved it by soldering the coil itself, which I am talking about in the first video. During the repair of the AOGV automation unit, I accidentally pounded inside the shavings that interfered with the tight fit of the gas valve, which led to a gas leak and I began to disassemble. After examining the insides of the AOGV automatics, I realized that if you have a working solenoid valve and a thermocouple but still do not properly hold the gas valve by the solenoid valve, then you can try to compress the gas valve spring, which in my case was a success. See how I did it.

Be sure to check out the first video: <>

Video Boiler automation AOGV DIY repair of Samodelkin Uman channel

Question: Problems with the thermostat of the gas boiler AOGV 29 Rostov. After replacing the heat exchanger, the water in the boiler heats up to the set temperature of 70 degrees and the burner turns off. Re-switching occurs at a temperature of 40. Can you tell me if and how to adjust the thermostat for a temperature difference of 10-15 degrees?

Answer: Change the thermostat. When you took it off, you had to look at the carving area.I give a guarantee that it has semi-decomposed over these 15 years. And inside is the working part. If now the difference is about 30 degrees, then it will be more and in one day it will stop working altogether.

Question: An AOGV 11.6-3 boiler is installed in a private house. In the fall, when they turned on low gas, there were no problems at all. Then it suddenly got colder (up to -15 degrees), the batteries are hot, the houses are very warm, in short, everything seems to be fine and no one expected any trick. Then, unexpected warming (0. -2) atmospheric pressure drops to 740 mm Hg and the boiler stops working in normal mode 🙁 even at low gas.

The flame on one side constantly goes out (as if blowing out) and flares up again, the igniter burns evenly, if you turn on the gas more strongly, the flame begins to burst out of the boiler into the ignition window, as a result, the gas is turned on very quietly, the door is open (like the window in the kitchen) for air leaks and the house is cold. By the way, she didn't say that in the fall we turned on the boiler to the full, tried it, and there were no problems.

Our assumption is that there is not enough draft and possibly a problem with the burner. In addition, water is dripping onto the burner, from where, we do not know. It is very similar to condensation inside the pipe; when the boiler is off, water does not drip. Tell me what can be done? There is no way to get the burner out of the boiler and clean it - everything is tightly welded. How can you increase your cravings? We only have a single idea - to put a fan on the boiler tube

Answer: 100% of the problem is traction. Solution options: Eliminate all possible "leaks", i.e. there should be no holes in the chimney or in the chimney fittings. Insulate the pipe. Build up the pipe.

The fan will not work normally, this is not a smoke exhauster, and you cannot select the characteristics. One more point. Working at low gas pressure is also bad. This causes the flue gas temperature to drop. Try to work for a while at high power, dry the pipe, and then do not lower the gas pressure, but lower the temperature on the thermostat. Let the boiler turn on and off, this is a feature of cheap models, burners and automatics in them only work on and off, and not with modulation, as, for example, in wall-mounted boilers.

Question: The AOGV-23 boiler turns off completely - the wick and the burner. What could be the reason? The thermocouple is intact, how to check the solenoid valve (emk)?

Answer: Take off the EMC and the thermocouple. Connect the thermocouple to the EMC and to the gas stove, heat the working end of the thermocouple. Keep it for 30 seconds, if the button is grabbed - the flight is normal, everything will work, no - check the EMC and the thermocouple. The solenoid valve most likely needs to be disassembled and the working surfaces cleaned on fine sandpaper so that the working surfaces are even. Also, see if it is torn off and where the thermocouple is twisted.

Question: We have installed and connected the AOGV gas boiler with skif automatics. The boiler has been in operation for exactly a year, a problem began in the operation of the automation, when it is turned on, the piezo-ignition occurs, the burners ignite, and the ignition continues to work and after a few seconds the boiler goes out, after several such starts it seems to start working but after a temperature automatic shutdown at the next auto start it goes out again. Can you help or advise what to do?

Answer: Your boiler “does not see” the flame. Possible reasons: 1. the ionization electrode is not in the flame; 2. The ionization electrode is dirty; 3. Poor contact in the ionization electrode circuit. The third option is the most probable - the wires burn out.

Question: Tell me the reason - the AOGV-11.6 boiler, after replacing the thermostat, there was just a huge difference between the on-off of the boiler - it cools down to 25 degrees, did you really buy a defective thermostat?

Answer: Yes, you need to check the thermostat.

Question: We launched and adjusted the AOGV-11.6-3 gas boiler. This winter I defrosted the hot water coil, advise what to do, buy a new one, or have it been repaired.

Answer: I do not advise anyone to repair boilers using welding.Although there are welders who say that they welded such boilers outside the factory, that is, on their own. Therefore, I advise you to either buy a new boiler or upgrade the system with an old boiler by installing an indirect heating boiler for DHW. But first, be sure to pressurize the boiler, after defrosting it is very desirable. If after crimping it flows, then replace it with a new one.

Question: I turn on the main burner, the gas goes on with some kind of noise, the flame in the igniter is unstable and the thermocouple cools down and turns everything off. Soot builds up quickly. By the way, the flame climbs into the viewing window. Now it works at “low speed”. If you give more, it will turn off.

Answer: The solenoid valve is poorly held. When the igniter is on, it works (stuck). But you turn on the main burner and it knocks down with a flow of gas (snaps off). This can happen either immediately or after 5 minutes or 2 days. It is necessary to remove the blocking membrane inside and tie the button with a wire. Should work.

Question: Please tell me in this question - when you hold the start button, the wick lights up, and after I release the button after 30 seconds or more, the main burner does not light up and the wick goes out.

Answer: Try replacing the thermocouple.

Question: Automation of the AOGV boiler. There is a problem: the ignition solenoid valve button is no longer held. What I checked: I bought a new thermocouple (as it turned out in vain, an old working one). The thermocouple generates an EMF of 25-30mV, normal. I screwed the thermocouple to the EMC valve, on the second
at the end of the valve (which goes to the thrust sensor), i.e., through the winding and the EMC core, the EMF remains 25-30 mV. It also seems to be correct, so there is no break in the EMC. The wire that goes to the traction sensor rings out with the body (i.e. resistance 0, i.e. the sensor is not open, i.e. working). Damn, not
works anyway.

The impression is that the core itself has broken, but the same cannot be, there is nothing to break there. Help with advice. Principle of operation: To the right, cable to the traction sensor. The idea of ​​the boiler: while there is gas, the igniter is on, heats the thermocouple, it generates an EMF (I have 30mV), the current passes through the winding, goes right through to the draft sensor, if it is ok, then it is shorted to ground (boiler body), the current goes out through it to the body. Passing through the valve core with a winding, it holds the washer with the stem pressed, the gas reaches the burner. If the washer does not hold, the flame goes out.

To check the valve, I decided to connect a battery to it instead of a thermocouple. I haven't reached AOGV yet, but I checked it on the removed valve. Connected the battery. The second ends of the battery and the valve were also shorted together, that is, they made a closed battery-EMC circuit. The washer is magnetized, but not good. There is clearly not enough effort to keep the rod pressed in the AOGV. I drove into a gas store, bought a new EMK the same. 1500r is worth it. He was also connected - one to one picture, also barely attracted. Although the instructions for the new valve say that the pull-off force is 1.9 kg when the EMF from the thermocouple is 18mV + -2mV. What to do?

Answer: The coil is definitely intact if it has not been mechanically damaged. And therefore: either somewhere there is no contact or when you press the button you do not press it all the way, that is, the washer does not adhere to the EMC. All contacts must be soldered.

Question: I would like to share a problem related to the Siberia AOGV-11 6-3 boiler. The boiler turns off in the afternoon, gas workers say the thermocouple is faulty during inspection. Didn't find a suitable one. You need a thermocouple Sit 200 L 300. Can someone help you with the purchase?

Answer: No, it might not be the problem. How long does the boiler work? Disconnect the wires that stand there, solder the wires to the terminals. Check how the pilot burner works. there is a possibility that the air intake hole is clogged, the nozzle is clogged and a small wick goes to the thermocouple (not enough). The adapter where the thermocouple is screwed must be tightened. In general, check the entire chain from the igniter to the gas valve. You most likely have oxidation of contacts.

Question: The AOGV-11.6-3 boiler does not turn on.The water temperature drops significantly, and the boiler does not turn on. turning the knob of the temperature regulator also did not help, what should I do?

Answer: I decided as follows. I had to open the regulator (a metal box under the button), sort out the device and squeeze the plate there. Everything worked. The box has a lid with 4 screws. With rubber gasket. Turn off the gas, unscrew 4 screws, pry off the cover and remove it. Be careful with the gasket, do not damage. And figure it out before you bend. Then everything is in place and check if it is poisoning from under the lid.

I had the following symptoms. This boiler regulates the temperature by the switch-on time. And now it turned on less and less, despite the “maximum” setting. Then he got up completely, but the wick burned regularly. Where I could, I cleaned it - it did not help. I had to open it. But I had no way out, it was -30 on the street, Sunday evening, you couldn’t call anyone, and there’s already a beater in the house. In your case, I would call the master.

Question: When trying to ignite, gas does not come in, it looks like a sticking valve. It looks like this: the tap on the burner is open, I press the gas supply button, and the gas does not hiss through the burner. Only after several presses and abrupt releases of the button, gas begins to flow, I close the valve and ignite the igniter. Need to change the valve?

I could not find the internal structure of the regulator, I don’t really want to call the next repairmen. What do you recommend to start with? Disassemble, inspect, clean? There was a thought after the gas valve on the burner to install a normally open valve to control the thermostat automation.

Answer: Do not experiment with an open tap on the burner when firing up. Someday it may end in an explosion. The valve on the burner must be closed during ignition. The gas pipeline is purged through a hose to the street, if purging is needed. No smoking and all that
fire prevention. When the rod is fully pressed, the protection against distraction works, the second valve closes the gas supply to the burner, while the gas continues to flow to the igniter.

When released, the stem rises slightly, freeing the gas passage to the burner, on the other side the stem
restrained in the middle position by the core. That is, for the gas to pass to the burner, the middle position of the stem is needed. In the released state, the gas is completely shut off, in the extreme pressed state, it is supplied only to the igniter. In the middle position, gas flows to the igniter and the burner (if the valve is open).