We look at the power supply and the level of constant voltages (5 and 12 V) at its outputs. If there are no voltages at the IP output, check the corresponding elements - a power switch, a power filter, a power transformer T1, a rectifier (D11-D14), a U1 microcircuit.
They are used in typewriters with an asychronous drive motor and a mechanical controller.
Models A1000PL, A1000XCZ, A1000XPL, WD1000PL, TL1000X, etc.
The wear of the heating element increases with “hard” water.
Video (click to play).
Overgrowing with scale (scab), it gives off heat poorly and burns out.
You need to pull out the gum and not the heating element. Since pulling out the heating element, you can wedge the gum.?
This is important to avoid further leakage under the seal.
10% - wear of brushes of the collector motor, loosening of contacts, breakage of the drive belt
Remove the belt, unscrew the screws and remove the engine. The motor has two brushes, each attached with two screws. We unscrew the screws and remove the brushes.
Inspect the board motor power supply terminal and ground wire.
Very often, the contacts are oxidized from moisture and the machine gives an error because of this.
Each brush is installed in a brush holder. It can be taken apart into two halves. Pay attention to how much the brush protrudes.
This size should be at least 1 cm. The best option is 1.5 cm. After that, we assemble everything and put it back in place.
Having jammed the pulley, unscrew the upper shaft clamping nut counterclockwise.
If the oil seal is not filled with a specialized grease and the cross bushing is not lubricated with it during assembly, the oil seal will wear out very quickly, no matter what quality it is, this has been proven in practice.
It is not worth saving and improvising with lithol, grease and other lubricants, get better specialized lubricants that are used to lubricate the oil seals.
Standard sizes of Ardo bearings and seals:
This applies to modern technology - since 2000 (models AE800X, AED1000X, TL1OOOEX).
Thanks to it, you can diagnose (control module DMPU):
Close the hatch (without linen). Set the program selection to 30 ° C until it clicks. The temperature regulator to 0 ° C. Turn on. The drum rotates at 250 rpm. To check the buttons half load, additional rinse and others, press them. The spin speed increases from 250 to the maximum, provided for this model. In the absence of additional functions, press the spin button.
Indicators will blink when a malfunction is detected.
E00 | E01 - Draining. Clean the drain filter and drain connections. E02 - Water does not flow in correctly or is drained off. The drain hose may not be positioned correctly. E03 - Water is not drained from the tank, also the drain time has exceeded 3 minutes. F2 - Temperature sensor. F4 - It is issued on the display if there is no water drain. A possible cause is a drain pump. F5 - The water is drained and instantly poured. The problem is usually in the water supply filter. F6 | F9 | F12 - Electronic module. F8 - The water in the tank has exceeded the available level. Suspicion of an aquastop valve. F13 | F14 - Critical.
Breakdowns are rare, usually associated with improper operation. Italian technology is distinguished by its high manufacturability and versatility.
How to carry out a service test equipped with the MINI-SEL board:
Control panels look different
The steps to enter the check mode are shown in the figures. - move the program selector knob to the 6 o'clock position - press the button 4 - ENERGY WASH and, while holding it, press the POWER button. After that, the CM should go into test mode.
With temperature control knob:
- turn the program selector knob to the 6 o'clock position - move the temperature selection knob to the 9 o'clock position - press and hold the ENERGY button (for at least 6 s), at the same time turn on the power supply of the CM with the POWER button.
After that, the CM should go into test mode.
Turning the selection knob, we check the devices:
Knob in position 1 (autotest) - NTC temperature sensor (sensor circuit - for open or short circuit), pressostat, display (if any), door lock and main function buttons on the control panel
2. First, the cold water inlet valve is opened until a signal is issued from the water pressure sensor. The filling of water takes place through the compartment of the dispenser for the PREVIEW.
3. First, the heating element turns on and the water in the tank heats up to 60 ° C. Then the CM drum starts to rotate in a cyclic mode at a speed of 45 rpm (as in a washing mode).
4. The drain pump (pump) turns on. At the same time, the drum starts to rotate as during spinning.
5. Within 10 s, the hot water filling valve is turned on (if this CM model has it). At the same time, the CM drum starts to rotate.
6. The fan and heating element of drying are included (for models with drying)
The test mode is exited by turning off the power with the POWER button.
Do you need to repair your Ardo washing machine? You have a choice: repair the equipment yourself or contact a service center. In the latter case, additional expenses are foreseen for the work of the wizard. Therefore, we will tell you how to find and fix a breakdown with your own hands.
Error codes will help determine the location of the problem: E00 / E01, E02, E03, F2, F4, F5, F6 / F9 / F12, F8, F13 / F14. The control board diagnoses the system in the event of a breakdown and displays a set of symbols on the display. Each of them points to a different problem. The decoding of errors can be found in the operating instructions and our article.
Serviceability of the heating element and its wiring.
Thermal sensor performance
Remove debris from the drain filter, hose, pipe.
Replace your broken pump
Replacing the motor brushes.
Repair of windings.
Installing a new module
Ardo washing machines are divided into two main categories according to the type of load:
Vertical (Ardo TLN 85 SW, T80X, TLN 106 SA).
Frontal (Ardo SE 810, FLN 126 LW, A 1033, WDO 1485 L).
The Ardo top-loading washing machine features a compact body that easily takes up the space between the bathtub and the sink. But it is not without its drawbacks.
Here's what users are complaining about:
Machines with a long service life (more than 5 years) spontaneously open the drum flaps. This leads to jamming and separation of the flaps.
The top cover of the drum is often corroded because the water is fed through the top.
Close the flaps more tightly. Clean the latch from debris, adhering powder.
Do not overload the tank with laundry.
Observe the dosage of the detergent to prevent foaming.
Wipe the drum with a dry cloth after washing to avoid corrosion.
The rest of the problems are similar to the front models. The most common ones are:
The "Ardo" washer is noisy and makes extraneous sounds.
The equipment does not drain water.
There is no water heating.
The drum does not rotate.
After switching on, there is no water intake or it flows in excess of the norm.
Let's see how to make an independent repair.
Some breakdowns can be eliminated without the help of a wizard if you follow our recommendations.
SMA buzzes, makes noise, vibrates
Have you bought your car recently? Did the unit start jumping and rattling when you first started it? Check if the shipping bolts have been removed. They lock the tank in place to prevent damage during transport.
Unfold the case with the back wall.
Remove the bolts around the perimeter.
Also make sure the equipment is level and stable on the surface. The floor must be level and firm. Twist the legs of the clipper if necessary.
The most serious failure is bearing wear. In this case, not only a rumble is heard, but also a grinding noise (with severe wear). Replacing a bearing is considered a difficult repair. How to disassemble the CM "Ardo" and install a new bearing, watch the video:
The drum is not spinning
Ardo technology uses direct drive motors. The engine has a small pulley and the tank has a large pulley. Together they are connected by a drive belt. When the motor starts, a small pulley spins and transfers torque through a belt to the tank. Therefore, in case of a similar problem, inspect the belt:
Observe safety precautions: unplug the machine from the mains before starting work.
Disconnect communications.
Remove the two top cover bolts. They are located at the back.
Unscrew the screws around the rear wall.
You will see a belt behind it. If it flew off the ground, restore its location. Put the part first on the small pulley, then, scrolling, onto the large one. If worn, broken, stretched, replace the belt.
No water intake. Overflow in the tank
You have started the program, but the water filling has not started. Clear the blockage:
Filler and hose. Substitute a container and disconnect the hose from the body. Rinse it under pressure from the tap. Behind it is a mesh filter. Remove it with pliers, rinse with water. For stubborn dirt, it can be brushed with citric acid.
Inlet valve. Remove the top panel to inspect the part. Loosen valve hose clamps, remove debris from them. For accurate diagnosis, you need a multimeter. When measuring the resistance on the coils, there should be an indicator of 2-4 kOhm. If the indicators are different, then a new valve is being installed. To do this, its contacts are disconnected, the fastening bolt is unscrewed.
The reason for the shortage or overflow of water can be a pressure switch. It is called a level (pressure) sensor. Its tube reacts to an increase in pressure in the tank during fluid intake. Then the sensor sends a signal to the module that enough is collected, and the flood stops.
Incorrect operation of the pressure switch, its breakdown leads to malfunctions in the intake system.
The part is located under the top cover against the side wall. Clean the sensor hose, connect a short tube in its place. Blow into it. If you hear clicks, the part is working properly.
The CM device provides for a drain system. At the end of the cycle, the board gives a signal to the pump to start taking water. The liquid is drained through the pipe and goes into the sewer through the drain hose. For diagnostics:
Empty the filter. Open the door under the loading door. Unscrew the filter counterclockwise, place the container.
Dismantle the rear wall.
Tilt the body back to reveal the bottom.
Disconnect the pump wiring.
Unscrew the pump screws with a 10 head.
Loosen the clamps of the hose and the branch pipe, remove them from their place.
Clean all components.
Mechanical development becomes a frequent cause of breakage of pops. Then the impeller clings to the housing and the element needs to be replaced.
Buy a similar pump, install in reverse order. More on video:
