Ardo t80x do-it-yourself repair

Check out the recommendations for repairing the Ardo washing machine from the master!

The manufacturer (translated from Italian home appliances) is Antonio Merloni.

Standard front-loading - models with the index FL.
With drying - WD.

• 30% clogging of the drain tract, wear and tear of the pump:

Open the loading hatch, on the sticker we determine the model of the machine.

Having unscrewed the drain filter from the front below, we clean it.

We change the pump, which is located at the bottom right on the back side.

Loosen the clamp on the drain pump pipe.

We check the pump, clean it - if it malfunctions, we change it.

Over time, mechanical wear appears on the shaft. The impeller dangles and pumps out water poorly.

• 20% - malfunction of the electronic control board:

MINISEL board: Models Ardo FL1000,FL1202,FLS81S,A800XEL, AE810, AE800X, SE810, FLS81S, AED1000X,TL1000EX, TL1010E ANNA610, ANNA 600X, A410, A610, A500, A1000.

We look at the power source and the level of constant voltages (5 and 12 V) at its outputs. If there is no voltage at the output of the power supply, check the corresponding elements - a mains switch, a mains filter, a power transformer T1, a rectifier (D11-D14), a U1 microcircuit.

Module DMPU: Models A800, A804, A810, A814, WD800X, S1000X, T80, T800, TL800X, TL804, etc.

Malfunctions in the DMPU module

open resistance R51 (A, B);
stabilizer U3;
zener diode D24 (short circuit);
open varistor VDR5.

relay K1, K2;
rsimistor TR2.
Diodes D1-D6, D9-10, D15, D23.

Departing module DMPA:

They are used in machines that incorporate an asynchronous drive motor and a mechanical command device.

Models A1000PL, A1000XCZ, A1000XPL, WD1000PL, TL1000X, etc.

The wear of the heating element increases with “hard” water.

Overgrown with scale (scab), it gives off heat poorly and burns out.

It is necessary to pull out the gum and not the heating element. Since pulling out the heating element, you can wedge the rubber band.?

This is important to avoid further leakage under the seal.

• 10% wear of the brushes of the commutator motor, loosening of contacts, breakage of the drive belt

Remove the belt, unscrew the screws and remove the engine. There are two brushes on the motor, each fastened with two screws. We unscrew the screws and remove the brushes.

Inspect the motor power supply terminal from the board and the ground wire.

Very often, contacts oxidize from moisture and the machine gives an error because of this.

Each brush is installed in a brush holder. It can be disassembled into two halves. Pay attention to how much the brush protrudes.

This size should be at least 1 cm. The best option is 1.5 cm. After that, we assemble everything and install it in place.

• 10% extraneous noise (bearings, shock absorbers, foreign object)

Having jammed the pulley, unscrew the upper clamping nut of the shaft counterclockwise.

If the stuffing box is not filled with a specialized grease and is not lubricated with it during assembly, the stuffing box will wear out very quickly, no matter what quality it is, this has been proven in practice.

It’s not worth saving and improvising with lithol, grease and other lubricants; get better specialized lubricants that are used to lubricate oil seals.

Dimensions of Ardo bearings and seals:

This applies to modern technology - since 2000 (models AE800X, AED1000X, TL1OOOEX).

Thanks to it, you can make diagnostics (DMPU control module):

We close the hatch (without linen). We set the choice of programs to 30 ° C until it clicks. The temperature regulator is in the 0 ° C position. Turn on. The drum rotates at 250 rpm. To check the buttons half load, extra rinse and others, press them. There is an increase in the spin speed from 250 to the maximum provided in this model. In the absence of additional functions, press the spin button.

When failures are detected, the indicators will flash.

E00 | E01 - Drain. Clean the drain filter and drain pipes.
E02 – Water does not flow or drain correctly.The drain hose may not be positioned correctly.
E03 – The water does not drain from the tank, and the drain time has exceeded 3 minutes.
F2 - Temperature sensor.
F4 – Appears on the display if there is no water drain. Possible cause is the drain pump.
F5 - The water drains and immediately fills up. The problem is usually the water filter.
F6 | F9 | F12 – Electronic module.
F8 – The water in the tank has exceeded the available level. Aquastop valve suspect.
F13 | F14 – Critical.

Breakdowns are a fairly rare phenomenon, usually associated with improper operation. Italian technology is characterized by high manufacturability and versatility.

How to carry out a service test equipped with a MINI-SEL board:

Control panels are different

The steps for switching to the verification mode are shown in the figures.

– move the program selector knob to the “6 o’clock” position
- press the button 4 - POWERFUL WASH and, while holding it, press the NETWORK button.
After that, the SM should go into test mode.

With temperature control knob:

- turn the program selector knob to the "6 o'clock" position
– move the temperature selection knob to the “9 o’clock” position
- press and hold the ENERGY button (for a period of at least 6 s), at the same time turn on the power supply of the SM with the POWER button.

After that, the SM should go into test mode.

By turning the selection knob, we check the devices:

Knob in position 1 (autotest) - NTC temperature sensor (sensor circuit - for open or short circuit), pressure switch, display (if any), door lock and main functional buttons on the remote control

2. First, the cold water inlet valve opens until a signal is issued from the water pressure sensor. The filling of water takes place through the compartment of the dispenser for PRELIMINARY.

3. First, the heating element is turned on and the water in the tank is heated up to 60°C. Then the CM drum begins to rotate in a cyclic mode at a speed of 45 rpm (as in the washing mode).

4. The drain pump (pump) is turned on. At the same time, the drum begins to rotate as if spinning.

5. Within 10 s, the hot water inlet valve is turned on (if this SM model has it). At the same time, the CM drum starts to rotate.

6.The fan and drying heater turn on (for models with drying)

The test mode is exited by turning off the power with the POWER button.

The Ardo washing machine in the house for a long time, the service life indicated by the manufacturer, has worked out, however, it is in service. She broke down three years ago. The renovation turned into a whole epic. I had to almost thoroughly study its nodes and the algorithm of work. Cope with the repair coped, but it was not easy. Therefore, you can imagine how “delighted” I was when they told me in an insinuating voice: “But something is not working with the washer.”

When I removed the side panel, I saw that the belt had come off. But this is not a cause, this is a consequence. And here is the consequence of what had to be figured out. The skew of the flange is obvious. Upon closer inspection (looked inside the drum), I saw that there is a skew relative to the washing tub, but there is none relative to the washing drum.

In the last repair, having opened the panel, I saw just such a “picture”. The attachment point of the washing drum flange support in the side cover of the washing tub has collapsed.

He took off the cover, dismantled all the elements from it, bought a new one and put it on it. I also purchased a new flange with support for the drive belt pulley.

When disassembling the washing machine, a photograph of the connection of wires coming from various nodes to the elements installed on the side cover of the washing machine tank is required. And then during assembly you will have to call a specialist from the service.

You also need a photo of the bearing (always with a number) to buy a new one if the machine has worked for more than 3 years. The culmination of the repair came with the start of assembly work.The thing is that it is often possible to remove a part that has become unusable without completely disassembling the equipment being repaired, but it is simply impossible to assemble it. Moreover, as expected, I mean qualitatively. I had to make a complete nodal analysis of the washing machine, and only then assemble it. Everything would be easier and faster if from the very beginning he did not try to philosophize craftily.

This time he did the right thing. Took it all apart right away. Here is the flange with the support for the pulley that I replaced last time.

Quite well preserved. Decided to leave it.

This is a flange with a support on the opposite side.

In vain did not heed the advice and did not replace it last time (he was greedy). It turned out to be deformed in the plane of the flange.

And besides, his appearance is not very presentable - metal corrosion. Definitely needs replacement. I ran halfway through the city, through all the parts stores and workshops, but I didn’t find a new one anywhere. In one place they offered a used one, but I myself have one, only a little crooked. In one of the workshops, my attention was drawn to the center of the flange, more precisely, to the screw. If it is unscrewed, then the support is disconnected from the flange. That is, the unit is repairable.

I made a sketch indicating the dimensions for the further production of a normal drawing and began to look for a turner. But it’s always like this, when necessary, then “the brick is over, then the mortar has dried up.” I understand that it won't be quick.

I took a picture of the nameplate on the back of the washing machine (its information helps a lot to search through the Internet) and set out to find what I need in the virtual space. It turned out that this might be possible (50 x 50 chances), but it will take a long time to wait for the result.

Then he picked up a brass hammer (for less deformation of the metal of the part being repaired), put the flange with its flat side on a flat, smooth and thick metal surface and, slowly, with gentle blows straightened (made even) it. Put everything back together in reverse order. There was no skew. The drive belt did not fall off during operation. The washer has been running for three months. The washerwoman received intelligible instructions about the inadmissibility of pushing things into the drum in a lump and in large quantities. These are the main reasons for the failure of the washing machine. But the drawing still needs to be done and sharpen the stainless steel flange, but thicker as possible. Whoever happens to carry out such repairs, start with the instruction manual:

• page 3 – Machine description
• page 10 - Troubleshooting

It's great to speed up the process. Washer repair is mastered by Babay iz Barnaula.

Any household appliances sooner or later fail. In some cases, this is the physical wear of parts and assemblies of the unit, in others, improper connection and operation, in the third, marriage. We will devote this article to such equipment as Ardo washing machines, consider their typical breakdowns, the causes of such breakdowns, and how to repair Ardo washing machines with your own hands.

The user understands about the breakdown of the washing machine for specific symptoms. Only by examining these symptoms, he can assume a breakdown of a particular unit. Therefore, we will start by listing the symptoms that are encountered most often.

• The machine stopped draining water. This can happen for several reasons, the main of which is the clogging of the drain system, which includes: a pipe, a drain hose and a pump. In very rare cases, the water does not drain due to a broken water level sensor.
• The machine does not heat the water, especially when washing at 60-90 0 C. The reason for this malfunction is a breakdown of the heating element, which burns out due to limescale and deposited scale. But the development of the resource of the heating element is also possible.
• The drum does not rotate in the machine, it stands still. In Ardo washing machines, the tank rotates due to the drive belt, and if it breaks or flies off the pulley, the machine will stop. The problem is solved by replacing the drive belt.
• Extraneous sounds appeared in the typewriter, similar to knocking or roaring.If such a knock is heard when the machine is turned off, then the cause is definitely faulty bearings. Another reason for the rumble may be a foreign object that has fallen into the tank.
• Is there water leaking under the machine? The reason must be sought in the drain filter or nozzles. In the worst case, seals and bearings need to be changed.
• Programs get lost or the machine does not turn on at all, which means that the reason lies in the malfunction of the electronic board.

Before you panic and call the wizard, take a close look and listen to the “symptoms” that appear, perhaps you yourself can find the cause or even carry out repairs yourself.

In many washing machines, the manufacturer has programmed error codes into the microprocessor, which, if a particular malfunction occurs, appear on the display. Here are some examples of common fault codes. A all codes of any Ardo model can be found in the instructions.

• E00 or E01 - no water drain due to clogged drain filter.
• E02 - incorrect draining during spinning, the position of the drain hose is violated.
• E03 or F4 - drain time exceeded, drain pump failure.
• F2 - problems with the temperature sensor, heating element or control board.
• F5 - self-draining, incorrect connection of hoses.
• F13 or F14 - a malfunction in the control module.

Having found out the cause of the malfunction, we determine whether to call the master or we will repair it ourselves. In some situations, it’s really not worth overpaying, but doing the repairs yourself. For example, blockages can be eliminated. Most of the garbage accumulates in the drain filter, so cleaning it is a minor repair and can cost about 600 rubles. Although in fact, there is nothing complicated in this:

• Open a small door at the bottom of the front side of the machine or remove the bottom panel.
• Then place a large absorbent cloth on the floor in the filter area.
• Unscrew the valve counterclockwise.
• Pull out the filter.
• Rinse it well with water, remove hair and other debris.
• Screw the filter back.

The problem is debris can clog not only in the filter, but also in the drain hose, nozzles and drain pump. To get to them, you have to open the car body. And this is classified as a repair of medium complexity, the price for which starts from 1,200 rubles, and if, when disassembling the machine, a malfunction of some spare part is found, then you will have to buy another spare part.

If a foreign object gets stuck in the tank, for example, a bone from a bra, then in this case you will have to completely disassemble the machine. Such repairs are estimated as complex and will cost at least 2000 rubles. And if you are wondering how you can get an item out of the car, then you can read the article on how to pull the bone from the bra from the machine.

You can replace or clean the pump yourself if you have free time and skills in working with simple tools.

In the Ardo washing machine, you can get to the pump from the bottom, it is either missing or the plastic bar can be easily removed. The entire algorithm of actions and video instructions are in the article on our website on how to clean the drain pump in the washing machine.

If you want to clean the drain hose, then one end of it must be pulled out of the sewer pipe, and the other end must be disconnected from the pipe coming from the pump. Then the hose itself is cleaned with a flexible cable, at the end of which there is a small brush. After the hose must be rinsed under running water, wiped and connected in place.

Quite often in washing machines, the heating element fails. Diagnosing its malfunction is simple: when washing things in water heated to 60 0 C, put your hand on the drum hatch. And if it is cold, then this means one thing - the heating element burned out, it will have to be changed. Replacing the heating element refers to a repair of medium complexity, the cost of which will cost up to 2000 rubles plus the cost of the heating element. But do not rush, because getting to the heating element is not difficult and you can do it through the back cover of the case, for this:

1. We disconnect the machine from the network, disconnect it from the water supply and sewerage, and turn it around so that it is convenient to work.
2. We unscrew the screws holding the cover around the perimeter of the machine.
3. We find contacts and wires coming from the heating element under the tank, remove the terminals and sensors.
4. We unscrew the bolt that secures the heating element.
5. Gently, with loose movements, we pull out the heating element towards ourselves, you can pick up the heating element with a screwdriver.
6. We clean the holder of the heating element from debris.
7. We take the original heating element for the Ardo typewriter, insert it into the holder for the heating element so that the sealing gum is completely in place.
8. We twist the bolt, connect all the terminals.
9. We collect the machine.

Pay attention! Regular cleaning of the washing machine from scale will extend the life of the heating element, but you should not rely on advertised water softeners.

Replacing the electronic module is also not difficult and belongs to the middle class. However, this is the case when there is confidence that the module will have to be completely replaced one hundred percent. But in some situations, the module can be repaired by replacing individual elements on it. This is of particular importance, because the module itself is quite expensive, in some models its price is a third of the price for the entire machine. It is not uncommon for people to refuse such repairs and buy a new automatic machine.

Working with electronics is specific, it is necessary to have not only the skills of working with tools, but also knowledge in a certain area. Therefore, in such a situation, it is better to contact a specialist who accurately diagnoses the malfunction and can replace the element correctly.

For your information! There were times when some craftsmen changed the control module on their own, connecting all the terminals and sensors, and as a result, the new module burned out.

The most difficult repair, according to experts, is the replacement of bearings and seals in Ardo washing machines. This is because you have to almost completely disassemble the car and get the tank, and the bearings themselves are difficult to remove. It may require a special tool, patience and skill. In such a situation, giving the machine to the masters is much more reasonable than repairing it in your apartment, where there is not much room to turn around.

For those who still want to save money or gain experience in repairing washing machines, we suggest watching a detailed video on replacing bearings.

Thus, only after evaluating the complexity of the repair and your real abilities, you can begin to fix the problem yourself. Sometimes it is better to pay a specialist than to pay twice for a failed repair attempt.

If you are interested in self-repair of Ardo washing machines, it means that the machine has broken down and you would like to save on repairs.

While others urge you to call the master, we will help you carry out the repair yourself. To make it easier for you to understand everything, we will look at the main breakdowns, fault codes and provide detailed repair instructions.

FIND THE MANUAL FOR YOUR WASHING MACHINE ARDO IT IS POSSIBLE ON OUR SITE. Is free! The manual can be downloaded or viewed online.

Service center masters claim that all malfunctions in ARDO brands are divided into 2 types: typical and rare.

Typical. These are failures that are typical for all washers, not only the Ardo brand, but also any others. For example, in every machine such a misfortune can happen: water does not drain, it leaks, the drum is blocked, and so on.

Rare. Such breakdowns are associated with the brand of the machine, and depend on the technologies used in the manufacture of the SM.These include a tank overflowing with water, insufficiently heated water, and others.

Attention! According to experts, in 9 out of 10 cases, conventional and top-loading Ardo washing machines bother owners with typical breakdowns that are not related to production features. This once again proves that the ARDO technique is quite reliable.

A breakdown is usually reported by a number of signs. By carefully studying them, you can recognize the failure. Therefore, it is better to start with an overview of the signs of breakdowns that occur most often:

• Water does not drain. This can happen for a number of reasons, among which, mainly, a blockage in the drain system, consisting of a pipe, a drain hose and a pump (drain pump). It is extremely rare that this problem occurs due to the failure of the temperature sensor.
• The water stopped heating. This is especially noticeable in high-temperature washing modes. You can understand that the water is not heated by cold linen and unwashed stains on it. The failure of the heating element (heater) causes a breakdown. Limescale and scale slowly but surely destroy the part, causing it to burn out. The wasted resource of the part is not excluded.
• The drum stopped spinning - it was stuck, as if rooted to the spot. The device of Ardo washing machines is such that the drum is driven by a special belt. If the belt flies off the pulley or breaks, the tank stops spinning. In this case, you need to fix or replace the belt.
• Noise and "left" sounds - knocking, hum, rumble. If you hear them in operating mode, then the reason lies in the bearings. An object that has fallen into the tank is often noisy - a button, a coin, etc.
• Water leak. The fault of a dangerous breakdown is a violation in the pump or nozzles. In the most difficult case, you will need to replace the bearing and seals of the Ardo washing machine.
• Program crash. The machine does not start. All this is typical for the failure of the control module.

Do not panic, you can often do without a master. Perhaps, by correctly identifying the breakdown and its cause, you can fix the washer yourself.

Modern washing machines are complex devices with breakdown codes programmed into the microprocessor. They appear on the display whenever a failure occurs.

In the most frequent cases, Ardo brand CMs display the following error codes: E00, E01, E02, E03, F2, F4, F5, F13, F14.

Ardo washing machines are sometimes naughty.

Given that even for a simple cleaning of the filter, the master will have to pay quite a tangible amount - 600 rubles, many owners of such units would like to master the skills of simple repairs.

So, the topic of this article is the Ardo washing machine: do-it-yourself repair.

A washing machine is a rather complex piece of equipment, so failures in the operation of the unit can be caused by many reasons. But some of them are much more common than others. Here is a sample list of them:

If this is not done, then after shaking on a long journey, the unit will end up in a warehouse or shopping center in a very deplorable state.

Before the first run, these bolts must be removed, which some buyers, due to forgetfulness, do not do. Of course, in this state of affairs, the unit will not be able to work properly.

All "washers" must be installed in a strictly horizontal position. The correct installation is controlled by the building level. If there is a warp, the rotation of the drum, especially in the spin mode, is accompanied by excessive vibrations and noise.

The scourge of all washing machines, as well as boilers, is scale - a hard porous coating of calcium and magnesium salts (hardness salts), which is especially actively formed in hot water. Deposits cover the heating element, as a result of which it first loses its ability to quickly heat water, and then completely fails.

Many users themselves create problem situations by ignoring the instructions given in the instructions.

So, for example, overloading the machine with linen or, conversely, starting an almost empty unit leads to undesirable consequences.

Also, do not overfill the distribution container for detergents - powder and other chemicals must be filled in the quantities indicated in the instructions.

Often problems arise due to the fact that the powder left for a long time in the container is caked, which is why the machine cannot absorb it.

Some models react painfully to switching the washing program before the end of the current one.

And one more emergency situation - the user started the machine, while forgetting to close the drum.

Incompatible things - water and electricity - willy-nilly have to be combined in a washing machine. No matter how hard manufacturers try to seal electrical contacts, water often manages to short them out. Moisture manifests special insidiousness in the form of an omnipresent steam, which easily penetrates into the most inaccessible places and immediately, cooling down, turns into condensate.

Here are some general guidelines for repairs:

Most of the operations are performed using the most common tools - wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutters, a knife, etc.

To check the condition of the electrical part, you may need a multimeter and a phase indicator screwdriver.

In addition to the standard tool, sometimes you have to use a magnet on a nylon thread or nylon cord (it helps to remove screws or some metal debris that have fallen into it from the car), as well as a flexible metal ruler 70 cm long or more. The ruler is indispensable if you need to rotate the drum to its normal position after it has been put into operation with the loading door open.

A non-professional repairman may need a special tool only to replace bearings - this operation is performed using a special puller.
It should be noted that it is better to entrust such repairs to a specialist, since in the absence of experience, axle shafts can be damaged.

Before starting repairs, turn off the power to the machine and turn off the tap that supplies water to it. Connection to the network during repair work is allowed only in special cases, when, for example, it is necessary to make sure that there is voltage on the contacts of the heating element.

When starting to assemble the unit after repair, novice repairmen sometimes encounter a problem: it is difficult to remember which connectors these or those wires are connected to.

To avoid such situations, the wires and the mounting scheme of various components must be photographed before the next stage of disassembly.

Well, the course of theoretical training is over. Now let's see what failures we encounter most often.

The solution to the problem must be sought in the following sequence:

The clamps holding the drain hose and the pipe from the tank of the machine do not need to be completely removed - it is enough to slightly loosen them. Then the wires are disconnected and the pump itself is unscrewed. After removing foreign objects, the assembly is assembled in the reverse order.

Drain pump for washing machine

If the pump turned out to be serviceable, we go to the last link in the chain - the level sensor, also called the pressure switch. It is he who sends a signal to the controller about the need to start the drain pump. To get to this element, it is enough to remove the top cover of the machine by unscrewing the screws and slightly pushing it back. Next, you need to check the condition of the wire connections to the sensor contacts. If there are no complaints about them, the pressure switch should be dismantled and the tube attached to it from below should be inspected for blockages.

Next, you need to blow into the tube - this way the operability of the device is checked. If it is in working order, you should hear a click. If no clicks could be heard, it is necessary to purchase and install a new level sensor.

There is no need to complain about the quality of Zanussi washing machines, but no one is immune from unpleasant surprises. Zanussi washing machine - do-it-yourself repair of the mechanical component of the unit.

How to fix some types of breakdowns of Indesit washing machines, you will learn here.

It does not always make sense to contact specialists if the washing machine breaks down. Some faults can be fixed by yourself. If you own a Kandy washing machine, the following article is https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/740/cancliz/mnogokvartirnyie-doma/santehnika/kandi-stiralnaya-mashina-remont-svoimi-rukami. html will help you deal with its repair.

In this situation, you need to act like this:

1. Remove the back panel by unscrewing the fasteners holding it.
2. Check with a multimeter the presence of voltage on the contacts of the heating element, the shank of which sticks out of the tank in its lower zone (the machine must operate in heating mode).
3. If there is no power, check the temperature sensor. Measure its resistance at room temperature and after heating with hot water. If it remains constant, the sensor must be replaced.

Heating element (heater bent) for washing machine ARDO (Ardo)

At the same time, make sure that the contacts of the heating element relay (located near the control module) are not jammed.

If power is on, the heater is burnt out and needs to be replaced. Having disconnected the wires, unscrew the fasteners in the middle of the shank and carefully remove the heater, shaking it in different directions.

Having cleaned the installation site of dirt, we fasten the new heating element and connect the wires to it.

1. The unit is installed skewed (checked using the building level).
2. Loaded too small load of laundry, due to which its weight in the drum is not evenly distributed.
3. Damaged drum bearings.

To replace these parts, the machine must be completely disassembled and the drum removed from the tank.

In the absence of a puller, the axle shaft can be knocked out of the bearing with careful blows of a hammer, only you need to hit not on the axle shaft itself (this can damage the thread), but on the substituted plate. The bearing itself can be knocked out of the cover with a dull chisel and a hammer. Blows must be applied evenly so that the bearing does not warp.

New bearings must be lubricated with lithol before pressing. We note once again that in the absence of experience in plumbing work, it is not worth taking on this almost jewelry task.

Another commonly observed symptom is the slow flow of water into the machine or its complete absence. To troubleshoot, do the following:

1. First you need to open the cold water tap on any of the mixers and make sure that there is sufficient pressure in the pipeline.
2. If there is water, you need to inspect the filling hose. It may be twisted or severely bent.
3. At the next stage, you need to turn off the water supply to the machine, disconnect the filling hose from it, place its end over the bathtub or some other container and open the tap again. If water barely drips, then the hose is clogged and needs to be cleaned. In some models of washing machines, the hoses are equipped with a safety valve that automatically closes in the event of a leak. It is disposable, so after operation, you will have to install a new hose.
4. If the hose is still coping with its duties, you need to inspect the mechanical cleaning filter on the rear wall of the unit. You need to get it with pliers and clean it.
5. If water does not flow after that, it is necessary to check the operation of the filling valve by removing the top cover from the machine. The valve is attached behind the filter. First of all, inspect the wires and their connections to the valve contacts. If everything is in order here, the valve must be dismantled and the voltage indicated on the body must be applied to its terminals. If at the same time it does not open, the node is out of order.

If the sensors, valves, heater and other elements are in good condition, but the unit does not work properly, then the control module, which “conducts” this entire system, has failed. To repair the electronics or replace it, you must contact the service center.

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