Asko 1300 timer DIY repair

Experienced craftsmen who repair units for washing clothes rarely encounter models of this company. In the Russian markets, in comparison with Indesit, Samsung and other well-known brands, such a brand is quite rare. Repair of Asko washing machines, as well as the failures of such devices themselves, are distinguished by special specifics. This is exactly what the conversation will be about today.

Although these machines are much less common than others, they fail with the same persistence. Owners of such devices turn to service workshops for help with the same problems:

• the drum rotates too slowly, the tank does not spin at all;
• it is impossible to close the hatch, or it is completely blocked;
• washing of linen is performed in cold water even if high temperature conditions are determined;
• the washing machine does not drain the waste water, the program freezes.

Naturally, other breakdowns also occur, but they are much less common or are considered typical with machines from other companies.

Considering the cars of our brand, it should be noted that ASKO is distinguished by certain oddities. According to reliable sources, on the territory of Finland, a quarter of the inhabitants buy just such cars and are satisfied with their operation. But on the territory of Russia and other CIS countries, such machines are constantly out of order. And there are plenty of reasons for this - the quality of assembly work, hard tap water, poor detergent. There are problems due to violation of the operating rules, which are defined in detail in the operating instructions for the device.

Not in every case, you can do repair work with your own hands, because the machine is distinguished by complex electronics. But there are situations where it is quite possible if you follow the instructions below.

1. There is no drum rotation.

Most often, repair of Asko's washing machines is necessary in cases where the electric motor does not rotate the drum with things well enough or simply refuses to perform this function. It would be easier to understand the problem and repair the washing machine with your own hands if the self-diagnosis system worked constantly. But in fact, it turns out that the drum does not rotate, but error code is not displayed. What could be the reason? Most often, this problem occurs due to the drive belt. It does not jump, but it slips over the pulley and does not create normal rotation. It turns out that the drum is under load, or simply idle or spins slowly, producing from one hundred to one and a half hundred revolutions in one minute. But this speed is extremely low not only for spinning, but also for washing and rinsing.

If you take a deeper look at the problem, then the cause may not be in the belt itself, but in the motor pulley. Perhaps it was installed poorly at the factory, or it was damaged during operation, but the fact is obvious! So the pulley will have to be changed, proceeding as follows:

• the back panel is removed from the machine;
• pull off the drive belt from the pulley, inspect it;
• if damage is detected on the pulley, then it is necessary to disconnect all wires and unscrew the electric motor;
• it is necessary to take a bearing puller and a blowtorch, go outside, since it is not recommended to perform such work indoors;
• a puller is installed on the pulley, tension is created. Do not tear off the pulley immediately, as the puller can be broken;
• now you should light the lamp, warm it up and begin to gently heat the pulley with a flame. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that other metal elements do not heat up;
• the heated pulley must be dismantled almost independently;
• now it is necessary to cool it and purchase exactly the same item in the store;
• a new analogue is installed also in a hot state, incandescent to a red lamp;
• as soon as the new pulley sits in its place, it should be cooled, the engine and the drive belt should be installed, which is also changed beforehand;
• the panel is installed, the machine is connected and tested.

It must be remembered that if the machine issues an error code E 01, then the problem must be looked for in the electric motor itself or in the board responsible for the control. And such work is recommended to be entrusted to an experienced specialist.

This problem occurs quite often - the drum does not lock. It all starts with the fact that the locking mechanism on the hatch stops working normally, the machine "freezes" during startup. As a rule, an experienced hostess finds a way out of the situation - she presses the door with her knee and restarts the machine, which washes for some time in normal mode. But after a couple of years, the mechanism completely fails, and the washing machine does not turn on.

In this case, various kinds of nudges no longer help; you will have to disassemble the mechanism responsible for closing the hatch and replace the locking device.

1. The washing process takes place in cold water.

Such a refusal also happens, but a little less often. And in most cases, the situation can be corrected quickly enough, since when a problem occurs, self-diagnosis is triggered, and errors with codes E 05 or E 06 are displayed on the screen. What may be the reason:

• temperature sensor failed;
• there is no contact from the control module to the temperature sensor;
• the triac of the board, which is responsible for the heating element, has lost its functionality;
• the water heating heating element is out of order.

What exactly happened remains to be seen. It is necessary to start with diagnosing the heating element and the temperature sensor. But first you have to get to them.

Here you should be aware that in many models, both elements are located either in the front or behind the tank. But in our case, the heating element is located on the side. The placement is not quite ordinary, and you need to know how to proceed in this case. There is nothing complicated here - we remove the back panel, remove the drive belt, and the contacts of the heating device open in front of us.

• using a multimeter set to minimum, we will check;
• we disconnect all the wiring from the heating element and the temperature sensor;
• checking contacts. If the device shows a resistance of about 28 Ohm (the power of the heating element is 2 kW), then everything is in order;
• it remains to "ring" the thermal sensor. Disconnect the drain pipe first, remove the remaining water;
• remove the sensor;
• pour warm water into the container, immerse the tested element in it;
• We take it out after a couple of minutes, set the multimeter to a minimum, lean the probes against the contacts. If 40 - 60 Ohm is displayed, then everything is normal - the element is working properly.

Now it remains to check the wiring leading from the heating element and the sensor to the control module, calling them one by one. If everything is in order, then the problems may be lurking in the module itself. In this case, no independent action should be taken - contact an experienced specialist.

1. Waste water is not drained.

When the machine stops pouring out dirty water and stops the wash program, but the floor is dry, it is more likely that one of the faults has occurred:

• clogged pipes or drain hose;
• the pump failed;
• the sensor showing the liquid level is out of order;
• there was an open circuit between the control board and the pump, or between the board and the sensor indicating the level.

Before looking for the cause of the problem in the electronics and electrical wiring, you must perform a general cleaning of the machine. This will require some effort, but after such measures, the drain may resume and the machine will start working normally again.But if such a measure did not help, you will have to take a multimeter and take turns ringing the pump, water sensor, electrician, looking for breakdowns. The pump is checked first. The resistance on it should be about 144 ohms, then it is the turn of the sensor, the value of which should be 60 ohms. At the very end, it is the turn of the posting. If no break is detected, then the problem lies in the microcircuit, and you need to seek help from a specialist.

The electronics of the ASKO machine are designed in such a way that it has the ability to display codes that mean certain failures and malfunctions. The number of flashes in each series determines the code. Understanding what it means, you can repair the unit on your own, without contacting the service department.

You should not panic if letters and numbers are displayed on the display of the unit instead of the time during which the machine must complete the process. As a rule, this happens at the moment when the module responsible for process control has detected a failure of a node. We can confidently say that all breakdowns caused by the failure of the management unit occur in twenty percent of situations, all other problems are related to the water heating element, pressure switch, electric motor, drain system and inlet valve.

To identify a part that is out of order, the machine has a self-diagnosis function that displays an error on the screen. First, you need to check the presence of voltage in the network, the performance of extension cords and tees. They may not provide normal tension and can create serious problems. check the drain system, as it most often fails in every household appliance for washing clothes.

The reasons for the occurrence of error codes and their decoding are given in the table:

For almost a hundred years, Asko has been creating highly efficient and environmentally friendly devices. The brand is committed to durability and energy efficiency. ASKO is renowned for its minimalist Scandinavian design, which is timeless. Despite the outward modesty, the brand's products comply with all modern trends in the field of technical equipment.

Owners of Asko washing machines all over the world have long been convinced of their reliability. Each ASKO plant has eco-certification. But regardless of this, the need to repair the washing machine Asko ("Asko") may arise. This is due to various factors, including violation of operating rules or ingress of foreign objects into the case. If malfunctions begin, contact a trusted specialist for advice.

Regular care helps to avoid big troubles, and small ones can be fixed by a private specialist. If you want to extend the life of your equipment, choose a cycle of preventive measures.

It so happens that the repair of the Asko washing machine ("Asko") has to be redone after the service centers. A qualified technician will offer fast and professional assistance.

The most common breakdowns of the Asko washing machine are as follows:

• The washing machine does not start when turned on;
• The washer leaks during operation;
• The unit does not drain water;
• The washing machine does not get rid of stains and dirt;
• The technique makes a lot of noise when it is working;
• The drum of the washing machine does not rotate as it should;
• Smells burnt or has some other unpleasant odor during washing;
• The machine is not filled with water.

In order to eliminate all these breakdowns of the Asko washing machine, you will need the help of a properly qualified specialist.

If the dashboard displays error codes for the Asko washing machine, then this indicates a problem. Use the following Asko washing machine error codes to troubleshoot problems. Some of them can be eliminated by yourself by checking the connection to the mains or the tightness of the door closing.And to eliminate serious breakdowns (for example, a malfunction of the electronic module), you will need to call a specialist who will find the cause of the failure. Also, the error codes of the Asko washing machine ("Asko") can prompt the localization of the defect, you just need to carefully study the instructions and the table below.

When it comes to professional repair of Asko washing machines, it is required much less often compared to other competitive brands. In Russia, ASKO washers are less common than Whirpool, LG, Ariston and other common brands.

Today we will talk about this specifics, about common breakdowns and the fault codes that indicate them.

Despite the fact that Asko's cars are less common than others, they break down with enviable consistency. The owners of such equipment ask service centers and workshops for help, reporting the same problems:

• The tank is not spinning, or the drum is not spinning fast enough.
• The hatch cannot be closed or is blocked.
• The laundry is washed in cold water at the selected high temperature marks. The water stays cold on any program.
• The Asko washing machine does not drain the used water, the program hangs.

Of course, there are other breakdowns, but they are much less common or typical for all washing machines. We will consider only those that are characteristic of this particular brand.

By the way, the situation around the CM under the Asko logo is a bit strange. It is known from reliable sources that a quarter of all families in Finland buy these machines and are satisfied with the quality of their work. If you look at the statistics of Finnish service centers, then Asko in terms of quality are on a par with Miele and AEG (German assembly).

But in the Russian Federation and the CIS, the situation is completely opposite - our Asko cars break down constantly. It is impossible to say unequivocally what affects this - the build quality, the quality of water or washing powder. Breakdowns due to violation of the rules of use, which are clearly spelled out in the operating instructions, are not excluded.

If you come across a Finnish or Swedish-made SM, then you are lucky, congratulations! Even if you buy a used machine that has successfully worked in Europe for 10 years, it will serve you for at least another 15 years.

In order to recognize the cause of the breakdown, the malfunction itself and make repairs at home, you need to know what the codes mean by which the washing machine reports the problem.

In Asko models, the most common error codes are: E01, E02, E03, E04, E05, E06, Door lock fault, Floaming, Over flov, Termistor fault, Pressure sensor error.

Consider in detail the reason for the occurrence and ways of solving each of them:

2. The valve for filling the water in the machine is broken.

3. Blockage in the inlet hose.

4. Broken control board.

5. The water level sensor is out of order.

Breakage of the locking device.

Not in all cases it is possible to carry out self-repair of such complex electrical equipment as a washing machine. But in some situations this is quite possible if you follow the instructions that we will give below.

If you are faced with a situation in which the engine fails to rotate the laundry tub normally, or the drum has stopped completely, you need to figure out how this was provoked. The problem is that the self-diagnosis system of malfunctions does not always work, as a result, the SM does not work, and does not show any codes on the display.

Try to figure out the cause yourself. Most often, the machine behaves this way because of the drive belt. It might not have jumped off, but the drum pulley still does not pick up normal speed. Then it turns out that even an incompletely loaded tank stands rooted to the spot or does not rotate fast enough - only at a speed of 100-150 revolutions per minute.

This speed is not enough to wash, rinse or wring out something.

Delving into the essence of the breakdown, you may find that the drive belt has nothing to do with it - it can be completely intact (apart from small scuffs, they are characteristic of “aged” parts).The result of the problem may be the pulley itself - it is either initially of poor quality, or damaged in operation. As a result, a poor-quality or broken pulley spoils the belt and itself needs to be replaced.

If you decide to carry out the repair yourself, without overpaying the masters, proceed in the following sequence:

Important! If at the same time an error is issued E01, then the problem may be in the engine or control module. It is better to entrust the repair of these complex components to a good technician.

This video demonstrates another way to remove the pulley:

If the hatch does not close, then DIY repair is also possible - this breakdown in service centers is classified as light. It is also easy to identify a breakdown - at first, the hatch mechanism does not work, and the machine freezes during the start of the wash program.

Housewives often do not consider this problem serious and brilliantly solve the issue by securing the hatch with a knee and restarting the unit. After such actions, the machine washes, but not for long: maybe a year, or maybe a month. As a result, the hatch mechanism still takes its toll and stops working, so the machine sooner or later stops working.

It is necessary to disassemble the sunroof locking device (UBL) and change the locking mechanism. Therefore, having noticed even the first symptoms that the door of the machine does not want to be blocked, it is better to immediately inform a specialist about this or try to disassemble the CM and replace the UBL on your own.

A little less often, Asko's washing machines have a problem with water heating. This applies to washing machines with any load: vertical or horizontal. The problem, for its quick localization and elimination, is reported by the code E05 or E06. As we examined in the table, errors are triggered by several breakdowns.

If the contact between the sensor and the module is broken, then the sensor does not give the controller a signal that the water is not hot enough, and as a result, the machine washes it in ice water.

The triac of the board is responsible for controlling the heating element - a heating element. If the triac breaks down, the heating element does not start heating the water.

Everything is simple here - if the heating element is covered with scale and burned out, there is NOTHING to heat the water.

Your task is to establish which of the above is to blame for the fact that the laundry is washed in cold water and, of course, is not washed from deep stains.

Important! In most SMA heating elements and a temperature sensor are located either in the front or in the back of the tank. But in the ASKO brand, the placement of the heater is non-standard - it is located on the side of the tank.

Not everyone knows how to get to it without problems with such an arrangement of the heater. In fact, there is nothing difficult in this - unscrew the back wall, remove the drive belt (so that it does not interfere) and you will see the contacts of the heating element - they will "look" at you directly from the tank, from the side.

Proceed strictly in the following sequence:

We strongly do not recommend trying to fix the work of the board on your own - remember that sometimes it costs up to 1/3 of the price of the entire machine, so in case of failure, repairs will be very expensive. Entrust the repair or replacement of the board to an experienced technician.

Whatever model your Asko brand CMA is (W402, W502, W512D, etc.), such a problem may occur in it: the water does not drain, the machine hangs, but not a drop of water under the body. The reasons for this:

• Clogged drain hose, nozzles.
• Breakdown of the drain pump (pump).
• Breakage of the water level sensor.
• An open in the contacts of the pump or sensor with the electronic module.

Do not try to get close to electronics right away - first arrange your typewriter "Maundy Thursday". Take the effort, and perhaps the problem will be resolved without repair. You need to clean everything - the pump, the drain hose, the pipes. With a little tinkering, you get the perfect drain.

In addition, this video shows you how to clean the filter:

If cleaning the problem does not solve the problem, then again arm yourself with a tester and check everything that may be involved in the breakdown: the drain pump, the water level sensor and the electrician (wires and contacts).

Ring the pump (pump) first. The working resistance of the pump is 144 ohms, the level sensor is 60 ohms. Other values ​​will indicate a breakdown. If all is well with the pump and sensor, ring the wires.

If no break is found, then the problem lies in the control board, and in this case, as we have already said, it is better not to save money and call the wizard.

Being engaged in professional repair of washing machines, you rarely have to deal with Asko washing machines. In Russia, they are much less common than Indesit, Samsung, LG and similar well-known brands. Repair of Asko washing machines, as well as breakdowns of such equipment, have their own specifics. These breakdowns will become the subject of our conversation.

As already mentioned, there are not many Asko washing machines in Russia, nevertheless, they break down quite often. Owners of washing machines of this brand contact the service centers of the country with approximately the same problems:

• the drum is not spinning or is spinning too slowly;
• the hatch either does not close at all, or does not lock;
• washing takes place in cold water, with any washing program, the water is not heated;
• the Asko washing machine refuses to drain the waste water and freezes.

In general, the situation with Asko's washing machines is quite surprising. It is known for certain that in Finland almost ¼ of all families use these automatic washing machines and are very satisfied. If we take the statistics of their service centers, then it is quite possible to put Asko washing machines on a par with Miele or AEG made in Germany. In Russia and the CIS countries, the situation is exactly the opposite, because our Asko washing machines break down more often than others.

For example, in Zelenodolsk there are only 7 Asko washing machines, if, of course, you believe the data of their service centers. And all these machines have been repaired several times with the same breakdowns: hatch, heating element, engine, pump, pipes. The quality of the parts is disgusting, and the assembly is not similar to the European one. In general, we asked ourselves the question of the true origin of Asko's washing machines, but we did not receive adequate information, so we return to our main question - typical breakdowns of washing machines of this brand.

For your information! Got a Finnish or Swedish Asko washing machine? Consider that you are in luck, even the second-hand Asko technique, which has worked in Europe for 10 or more years, is still working for the subsequent owners for another 15-20 years.

Most often, repair of Asko washing machines is required in cases where the engine rotates the drum with laundry poorly or refuses to rotate it at all. It would be a little easier to understand the problem and fix the car with your own hands if the self-diagnosis system always worked. And so it turns out, the drum does not spin and no errors pop up.

What is the reason? The most common cause of this behavior in a washing machine is the drive belt. It does not seem to jump off, but at the same time, sliding on the engine pulley, it cannot rotate the drum pulley normally. As a result, it turns out that the drum under load either stands at all or rotates extremely slowly at 100-150 rpm. At this speed, it will not be possible to squeeze out, wash and rinse out.

If you go deep into the problem, then the point here is not even the belt itself, since it, apart from scuffs, can be whole. It's about the engine pulley. How can I change it?

Perhaps a low-quality pulley was installed at the factory, or perhaps it gets damaged during operation, but the fact remains - the pulley spoils the drive belt and needs to be replaced!

Be careful! If the washing machine gives an error with the E01 code, the problem lies either in the engine itself or in the control board. In this case, it is better to consult a specialist.

Quite often, Asko's washing machines have to be repaired with their own hands because of the drum hatch, which does not want to be locked. It all starts with the fact that the hatch mechanism sometimes stops working, and the car freezes when starting. Usually, the hostesses quickly find a solution to the problem, pushing the hatch with their knee and restarting Asko's car. After that, she washes normally for a while. Then a year or two passes, or maybe less, the hatch mechanism stops working at all, and the machine, accordingly, stops washing.

In such a situation, "pushing with the knee" no longer helps; you have to disassemble the hatch closing mechanism and change the locking device.Read about what to do if the door of the washing machine does not close and how to fix it in the publication of the same name.

Slightly less often, Asko washing machines have a problem with water heating. Moreover, in most cases, the problem can be localized quite quickly, since when it occurs, the self-diagnosis system is triggered and an error with the E05 code appears on the display, less often the E06 error flies. What are the reasons for these errors?

• The thermal sensor does not work.
• There is no contact between the control module and the temperature sensor.
• The triac of the board, which is responsible for controlling the heating element, is out of order.
• Teng broke.

Which of these is broken in your Asko washing machine remains to be determined. Let's start with the diagnostics of the heating element and the temperature sensor. But before diagnosing these elements, you need to get to them.

Important! Most automatic washing machines have a heating element with a temperature sensor either in the back or in the front of the tank. In Asko washing machines, the heating element is "stuck in the side" of the washing tank.

With such an unusual placement of the heating element, how to get to it? Nothing complicated, we remove the back wall of the washing machine, remove the drive belt so that it does not get in the way, and now, the ten is already in front of our eyes, or rather its contacts sticking out from the side of the tank. What are we doing?

1. We take a multimeter and set the switch to the minimum value.
2. We disconnect the wires from the contacts of the heating element and the temperature sensor.
3. We connect the probes of the multimeter to the contacts of the heating element. If the device displays a resistance in the region of 28 ohms (with a heater power of 2 kW), it means that the heating element is working properly. If it shows zero or one, then it is defective.
4. Now let's check the resistance of the temperature sensor. Disconnect the drain pipe from the tank and drain all the remaining water from it into a suitable container.
   

Note! When you drain the water from the tank, do not flood the contacts, wiring and the engine, otherwise you will have to dry it all with a hairdryer.

1. We take out the thermal sensor from the connector and put it aside.
2. We collect warm water (30 0) in a mug and lower the temperature sensor there.
3. After a couple of minutes, we take it out, set the multimeter to the minimum resistance value and lean the probes against the sensor contacts. If the device reads 40-60 ohms, then everything is in order, 0-1, then it is not in order.

Then you can check with your own hands the wires going from the heating element and the temperature sensor to the control module by ringing them one by one. If the wires are intact, only the control module remains. We do not advise you to climb to the control board on your own, because if it is damaged, repairs will be very, very expensive - contact experienced craftsmen.

If Asko's automatic washing machine stops draining water and freezes, but at the same time it is dry under the washing machine, it means that one of the following breakdowns has occurred:

• clogged pipes or drain hose;
• the pump has broken;
• the water level sensor does not work;
• an open circuit has occurred between the control board and the pump or between the control board and the level sensor.

Before looking for the causes of the problem in electrical and electronics, we will arrange a general cleaning for Asko's washing machine. Cleaning the washing machine from dirt will require some effort, but after that, the normal drainage of water can resume, and the smell of "home assistant" will be very pleasant.

If cleaning does not help to solve the problem, you will have to arm yourself with a multimeter and check the pump, water level sensor, electrician for breakdowns one by one. First, we ring the pump, its working resistance value is 144 ohms, then you need to ring the water level sensor, its resistance should be about 60 ohms. Well, at the end, we will ring the wires going to the control module for a break, if there is no break, then the matter is in the microcircuit and you need to contact a specialist.

For your information! The pump and water level sensor can be reached through the back of the washing machine.

In conclusion, I would like to once again draw attention to the following point. Most of the breakdowns of washing machines can be eliminated by hand if you carefully read the service instructions and the information that we publish in our articles. But if the problem is in the electronics, then it is better not to make repairs on your own, even the specialist who re-solders the board does not give guarantees that it will work. Don't finish your washing machine, trust the professionals!