Asko 1300 timer DIY repair

Experienced craftsmen who repair washing machines rarely encounter models from this company. In the Russian markets, in comparison with Indesit, Samsung and other well-known brands, such a brand is quite rare. Repair of Asko washing machines, as well as the failures of such devices themselves, are very specific. This is exactly what we're going to talk about today.

Although such machines are much less common than others, failures in them occur with the same constancy. Owners of such devices seek help from service workshops with the same problems:

• the drum rotates too slowly, the tank does not spin at all;
• it is not possible to close the hatch, or it is completely blocked;
• laundry is washed in cold water even if high temperature conditions are defined;
• the washing machine does not drain the waste water, the program “freezes”.

Naturally, other breakdowns occur, but they are much less common or are considered typical with machines from other companies.

Considering the machines of our brand, it should be noted that ASKO is distinguished by certain oddities. According to reliable sources, in Finland, a quarter of the inhabitants purchase just such machines and are satisfied with their operation. But in Russia and other CIS countries, such machines constantly fail. And there are plenty of reasons for this - the quality of assembly work, hard tap water, bad washing powder. There are also problems due to violation of the operating rules, which are detailed in the operating instructions for the device.

Not in every case it is possible to carry out repair work with your own hands, because the machine is distinguished by complex electronics. But there are situations when it is quite possible if you follow the instructions below.

1. There is no drum rotation.

Most often, repair of Asco washing machines is necessary in cases where the electric motor does not rotate the drum with things well enough or simply refuses to perform this function. It would be easier to understand the problem and repair the washing machine with your own hands in cases where the self-diagnosis system worked constantly. But in reality it turns out that the drum does not rotate, but error code is not illuminated. What could be the reason? Most often, this problem occurs due to the drive belt. It doesn't jump off, but it slips over the pulley and doesn't create normal rotation. It turns out that the drum is under load, or simply idle or spinning slowly, giving out from one hundred to one and a half hundred revolutions in one minute. But this speed is extremely low not only for spinning, but also for washing with rinsing.

If we look deeper into the problem, then the cause may not be in the belt itself, but in the motor pulley. Perhaps it was installed poorly at the factory, or it was damaged during operation, but the fact is there! So the pulley will have to be changed, proceeding as follows:

• the back panel is removed from the machine;
• we pull off the drive belt from the pulley, inspect it;
• if damage is found on the pulley, then it is necessary to disconnect all wires and unscrew the electric motor;
• it is necessary to take a puller for the bearing and a blowtorch, go outside, since it is not recommended to perform such work indoors;
• a puller is installed on the pulley, tension is created. You should not immediately tear off the pulley, as you can break the puller;
• now you should light the lamp, warm it up and begin to carefully heat the pulley with the flame. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that other metal elements do not heat up;
• the heated pulley must be dismantled almost independently;
• now it needs to be cooled and the exact same item purchased in the store;
• a new analogue is also installed in a hot state, red-hot with a lamp;
• as soon as the new pulley has sat in its place, it should be cooled, the engine and drive belt should be installed, which also changes beforehand;
• the panel is installed, the machine is connected and tested.

It must be remembered that if the machine gives an error code E 01, then the problem must be sought in the electric motor itself or in the control board. And it is recommended to entrust such work to an experienced specialist.

This problem occurs quite often - the drum does not lock. It all starts with the fact that the locking mechanism on the hatch stops working normally, the machine “freezes” during startup. As a rule, an experienced hostess finds a way out of the situation - she presses the door with her knee and restarts the machine, which erases in normal mode for some time. But after a couple of years, the mechanism completely fails, and the washing machine does not turn on.

In this case, various kinds of pushing no longer help, you will have to disassemble the mechanism responsible for closing the hatch and replace the locking device.

1. The washing process takes place in cold water.

This failure also happens, but a little less often. And in most cases, the situation can be corrected quite quickly, since when a problem occurs, self-diagnosis is triggered, and errors with codes E 05 or E 06 are displayed on the screen. What may be the reason:

• temperature sensor failed;
• there is no contact from the control module to the temperature sensor;
• the triac of the board, which is responsible for the heating element, has lost its working capacity;
• the water heater has failed.

What exactly happened remains to be seen. It is necessary to start with diagnosing the heating element and the temperature sensor. But first you have to get to them.

Here you should know that in many models both elements are located either in front or behind the tank. But in our case, the heating element is located on the side. The placement is not quite usual, and it is necessary to know how to proceed in such a case. There is nothing complicated here - we remove the back panel, remove the drive belt, and the contacts of the heating device open before us.

• using a multimeter set to a minimum, we will check;
• disconnect all wiring from the heater and temperature sensor;
• checking contacts. If the device shows a resistance of about 28 ohms (heater power - 2 kW), then everything is in order;
• it remains to "ring" the temperature sensor. First, disconnect the drain pipe, remove the remaining water;
• remove the sensor;
• pour warm water into the container, immerse the element to be checked into it;
• we pull it out after a couple of minutes, set the multimeter to a minimum, lean the probes against the contacts. If 40 - 60 ohms is displayed, then everything is fine - the element is working.

Now it remains to check the wiring leading from the heating element and the sensor to the control module, calling them in turn. If everything is in order, then the problems may be hiding in the module itself. In this case, independent actions should not be taken - contact an experienced specialist.

1. Waste water is not drained.

When the machine stops draining dirty water and stops the washing program, but the floor is dry, then it is more likely that one of the failures has formed:

• clogged pipes or drain hose;
• pump failed;
• the sensor showing the liquid level has failed;
• there was a break between the control board and the pump, or between the board and the level sensor.

Before looking for the cause of the problem in electronics and electrical wiring, it is necessary to perform a general cleaning of the machine. This will require some effort, but after such events, the drain may resume, and the machine will start working normally again.But if such a measure did not help, you will have to take a multimeter and call the pump, water sensor, electrician in turn, looking for breakdowns. The pump is checked first. The resistance on it should be about 144 ohms, then it is the turn of the sensor, the value of which should be 60 ohms. At the very end, it is the turn of the wiring. If a break is not detected, then the problem lies in the microcircuit, and you need to seek help from a specialist.

The electronics of the ASKO machine is designed in such a way that it has the ability to display codes that indicate certain failures and malfunctions. The number of flashes in each series determines the code. Understanding what it means, you can repair the unit on your own without contacting the service department.

You should not panic if, instead of the time during which the machine must complete the process, letters and numbers are displayed on the display of the unit. As a rule, this happens at the moment when the module responsible for managing the process has detected a failure of some node. We can confidently say that all breakdowns caused by the failure of the control unit occur in twenty percent of situations, all other problems occur in the water heating element, pressure switch, electric motor, drain system and inlet valve.

To identify a part that has failed, the machine has a self-diagnosis function that displays an error on the screen. First you need to check the presence of voltage in the network, the performance of extension cords and tees. Perhaps they do not provide normal voltage and can create serious problems. check the drain system, as it most often fails in every household laundry appliance.

The causes of error codes and their interpretation are given in the table:

For almost a hundred years, Asko has been creating highly efficient and environmentally friendly devices. The brand is committed to durability and smart use of energy. ASKO is famous for its minimalistic Scandinavian design that is timeless. Despite the outward modesty, the products of the brand correspond to all modern trends in the field of technical equipment.

The owners of Asko washing machines around the world have long been convinced of their reliability. Each ASKO plant has eco-certificates. But regardless of this, the need to repair the Asko washing machine ("Asko") may arise. This is due to various factors, including violation of operating rules or the ingress of foreign objects into the case. If failures begin, contact a trusted specialist for advice.

Regular care helps to avoid big troubles, and small ones can be fixed by a private specialist. If you want to prolong the life of your appliances, choose a cycle of preventive measures.

It happens that the repair of the Asko washing machine (“Asko”) has to be redone for service centers. A qualified master will offer fast and professional assistance.

The most common breakdowns of the Asko washing machine ("Asko") are as follows:

• The washing machine does not start when turned on;
• Washer leaks during operation;
• The unit does not drain water;
• The washing machine does not get rid of stains and dirt;
• The equipment makes a lot of noise when it works;
• The washing machine drum does not rotate as it should;
• During washing, it smells burnt or there is another unpleasant smell;
• The machine does not fill with water.

In order to eliminate all these breakdowns of the Asko washing machine (“Asko”), you will need the help of a properly qualified specialist.

If the error codes of the Asko washing machine ("Asko") are displayed on the dashboard, then this indicates problems that have arisen. Use the Asko washing machine error codes below to troubleshoot problems. Some of them can be eliminated by yourself by checking the network connection or the tightness of the door closing.And to eliminate serious breakdowns (for example, a malfunction of the electronic module), you will need to call a specialist who will find the cause of the failure. Also, the error codes of the Asko washing machine (“Asko”) can suggest the location of the defect, you just need to carefully study the instructions and the table below.

When it comes to professional repair of Asko washing machines, it is required much less often compared to other competitive brands. In Russia, ASKO washers are less common than Virpul, LG, Ariston and other common brands.

Today we will talk about this specificity, about common breakdowns and fault codes that indicate them.

Despite the fact that Asko's cars are less common than others, they break down with enviable constancy. Owners of such equipment ask service centers and workshops for help, stating the same problems:

• The tank is not spinning, or the drum is not spinning fast enough.
• Sunroof cannot close or is blocked.
• The linen is washed in cold water at the selected high temperature marks. On any program, the water remains cold.
• The Asko washing machine does not drain the used water, the program hangs.

Of course, there are other breakdowns, but they are much less common or typical for all washing machines. We will consider only those that are characteristic of this particular brand.

By the way, the situation around SM under the Asko logo is a bit strange. From reliable sources it is known that in Finland a quarter of all families buy these machines and are satisfied with the quality of their work. If you look at the statistics of Finnish service centers, then Asko is on a par with Miele and AEG (German assembly) in terms of quality.

But in the Russian Federation and in the CIS, the situation is completely opposite - our Asko cars break down all the time. It is impossible to say unequivocally what affects this - the build quality, the quality of water or washing powder. Breakdowns due to violation of the rules of use, which are clearly spelled out in the operating instructions, are not ruled out.

If you come across a Finnish or Swedish-made SM, then you are lucky, congratulations! Even if you buy a used machine that has successfully worked in Europe for 10 years, it will serve you for at least another 15 years.

To recognize the cause of the breakdown, the malfunction itself and make repairs at home, you need to know what the codes mean, with which the washing machine reports the problem.

In Asko models, the most common error codes are: E01, E02, E03, E04, E05, E06, Door lock fault, Floaming, Over flov, Termistor fault, Pressure sensor error.

Let's take a closer look at the cause of occurrence and ways to solve each of them:

2. The valve for filling water into the machine is broken.

3. Blockage in the inlet hose.

4. Broken control board.

5. The water level sensor is out of order.

Breakage of the locking device.

Not in all cases, it is possible to carry out independent repairs of such complex electrical equipment as a washing machine. But in a number of situations, this is quite possible if you follow the instructions that we will give below.

If you are faced with a situation in which the engine cannot rotate the laundry tub normally, or the drum is completely stuck, you need to figure out what caused this. The problem is that the fault self-diagnosis system does not always work, as a result, the SM does not work, and it does not show any codes on the display.

Try to figure out the reason yourself. Most often, the machine behaves this way because of the drive belt. He might not come off, but the drum pulley still does not gain normal speed. Then it turns out that even an incompletely loaded tank stands rooted to the spot or does not rotate fast enough - only at a speed of 100-150 revolutions per minute.

This speed is not enough to wash, rinse or wring out something.

Having delved into the essence of the breakdown, you may find that the drive belt has nothing to do with it - it can be absolutely intact (apart from small abrasions, they are characteristic of “aged” parts).The result of the problem may be the pulley itself - it is either initially of poor quality or damaged in operation. As a result, a poor-quality or broken pulley spoils the belt and needs to be replaced.

If you decide to carry out repairs yourself, without overpaying the masters, proceed in the following sequence:

Important! If at the same time it gave an error E01, then the problem may be in the engine or control module. The repair of these complex components is best left to a good craftsman.

This video demonstrates another way to remove the pulley:

If the hatch does not close, then do-it-yourself repairs are also possible - this breakdown in service centers is classified as easy. It is also easy to identify a breakdown - at first, the hatch mechanism does not work, and the machine freezes during the start of the washing program.

Mistresses often do not consider this problem serious and ingeniously solve the problem by locking the hatch with their knee and restarting the unit. After such actions, the machine erases, but not for long: maybe a year, or maybe a month. As a result, the hatch mechanism still takes its toll and stops working, so the machine stops working sooner or later.

It is necessary to disassemble the hatch blocking device (UBL) and change the locking mechanism. Therefore, having noticed even the first symptoms that the machine door does not want to lock, it is better to immediately inform the specialist about this or try to disassemble the CM yourself and replace the UBL.

A little less often, Asco washers have a problem with heating water. This applies to washing machines with any load: vertical or horizontal. About the problem, for its quick localization and elimination, the code E05 or E06 notifies. As we have seen in the table, errors are provoked by several breakdowns.

If the contact of the sensor and the module is broken, then the sensor does not give the controller a signal that the water is not heated enough, and as a result, the machine washes in ice water.

The triac of the board is responsible for controlling the heating element - the heating element. If the triac breaks down, the heating element does not start heating the water.

Everything is simple here - if the heating element is overgrown with scale and burned out, there is NOTHING to heat the water with.

Your task is to establish which of the above is to blame for the fact that the laundry is washed in cold water and, of course, does not wash off deep stains.

Important! In most SMAs, the heating element and temperature sensor are located either in the front or in the back of the tank. But in the ASKO brand, the placement of the heater is non-standard - it is located on the side of the tank.

Not everyone knows how to get to it without problems with this placement of the heater. In fact, there is nothing difficult in this - unscrew the back wall, remove the drive belt (so that it does not interfere) and you will see the contacts of the heating element - they will “look” at you directly from the tank, from the side.

Proceed strictly in the following sequence:

We strongly do not recommend trying to fix the board on your own - remember that it sometimes costs up to 1/3 of the price for the entire machine, so if it fails, the repair will be very expensive. Entrust the repair or replacement of the board to an experienced specialist.

Whatever model your Asco SMA is (W402, W502, W512D, etc.), the following problem can happen in it: the water does not drain, the machine hangs, but not a drop of water is under the body. Reasons for this:

• Clogged drain hose, pipes.
• Damage to the drain pump (pump).
• Damage to the water level sensor.
• An open in the contacts of the pump or sensor with the electronic module.

Do not try to get close to the electronics right away - first arrange your typewriter "Clean Thursday". Spare no effort, and perhaps the problem will be resolved without repair. You need to clean everything - the pump, the drain hose, the nozzles. With a little fiddling, you will get the perfect drain.

In addition, this video clearly shows how to clean the filter:

If cleaning did not solve the problem, then again arm yourself with a tester and check everything that may be involved in the breakdown: a drain pump, a water level sensor and an electrician (wires and contacts).

Ring the pump (pump) first. The operating resistance of the pump is 144 ohms, the level sensor is 60 ohms. Other values ​​will indicate a breakdown. If everything is fine with the pump and sensor, ring the wires.

If a break is not detected, then the problem lies in the control board, and in this case, as we have already said, it is better not to save money and call the wizard.

Being engaged in professional repair of washing machines, it is quite rare to come across Asko washing machines. In Russia, they are much less common than Indesit, Samsung, LG and similar well-known brands. Repair of Asko washing machines, as well as breakdowns of such equipment, have their own specifics. These breakdowns will be the subject of our conversation.

As already mentioned, there are few Asco washing machines in Russia, however, they break down quite often. The owners of washing machines of this brand turn to the service centers of the country with approximately the same problems:

• the drum does not turn or turns too slowly;
• the hatch either does not close at all, or is not blocked;
• washing takes place in cold water, with any washing program the water is not heated;
• Asko washing machine refuses to drain waste water and freezes.

In general, the situation with Asco washing machines is quite surprising. It is known for certain that in Finland almost ¼ of all families use these automatic washing machines and are very satisfied. If you take the statistics of their service centers, then you can put Asko washing machines on a par with German-assembled Miele or AEG. In Russia and the CIS countries, the situation is exactly the opposite, because our Asko washing machines break down more often than others.

For example, in Zelenodolsk there are only 7 Asko washing machines, if, of course, the data of their service centers is to be believed. And all these cars have been repeatedly repaired with the same breakdowns: sunroof, heating element, engine, pump, pipes. The quality of the parts is disgusting, and the assembly is not similar to European. In general, we asked ourselves the question of the true origin of Asco washing machines, but we did not receive adequate information, so we return to our main question - typical breakdowns of washing machines of this brand.

For your information! Got a Finnish or Swedish Asko washing machine? Consider yourself lucky, even used Asko equipment, which has worked in Europe for 10 years or more, works for subsequent owners for another 15-20 years.

Most often, repair of Asco washing machines is required in cases where the engine does not rotate the drum with laundry well or refuses to rotate it at all. It would be a little easier to figure out the problem and fix the car with your own hands if the self-diagnosis system always worked. And so it turns out, the drum does not spin and no errors pop up.

What is the reason? The most common reason for this behavior of the washing machine is the drive belt. It does not seem to jump off, but at the same time, sliding along the engine pulley, it cannot rotate the drum pulley normally. As a result, it turns out that the drum under load either stands or rotates extremely slowly at 100-150 rpm. At such a speed, not only wringing, washing and rinsing will not work.

If you drop deep into the problem, then the point here is not even in the belt itself, since, apart from scuffs, it can be intact. The point here is in the engine pulley. How to change it?

Perhaps a low-quality pulley was installed at the factory, or perhaps it gets damaged during operation, but the fact remains that the pulley spoils the drive belt and needs to be changed!

Be careful! If the washing machine gives an error code E01, the problem lies either in the engine itself or in the control board. In this case, it is better to contact a specialist.

Quite often, Asko washing machines have to be repaired with their own hands because of the drum hatch, which does not want to be locked. It all starts with the fact that the hatch mechanism sometimes stops working, and the car freezes at startup. Usually, housewives quickly find a solution to the problem by pushing the hatch with their knee and restarting Asko's car. After that, it erases normally for a while. Then a year or two passes, or maybe less, the hatch mechanism stops working at all, and the machine, accordingly, stops washing.

In such a situation, “knee pushing” no longer helps, you have to disassemble the hatch closing mechanism and change the locking device.Read about what to do if the door of the washing machine does not close, and how to fix it, in the publication of the same name.

A little less often, Asco washing machines have a problem with heating water. Moreover, in most cases, the problem can be localized quite quickly, since when it occurs, the self-diagnosis system is triggered and an error with code E05 appears on the display, and error E06 crashes less often. What are the reasons for these errors?

• The temperature sensor does not work.
• There is no contact between the control module and the temperature sensor.
• The triac of the board, which is responsible for controlling the heating element, has failed.
• Ten broke.

Which of these broke in your Asco washing machine remains to be established. Let's start with the diagnosis of the heating element and the temperature sensor. But before diagnosing these elements, you need to get to them.

Important! Most automatic washing machines have a heating element with a temperature sensor located either in the back or in the front of the tank. At Asko washing machines, the heating element is “stuck into the side” of the washing tank.

With such an unusual placement of the heating element, how to get to it? Nothing complicated, we remove the back wall of the washing machine, remove the drive belt so that it does not interfere, and now, the heating element is already in front of our eyes, or rather, its contacts sticking out from the side of the tank. What are we doing?

1. We take a multimeter and set the switch to the minimum value.
2. Disconnect the wires from the contacts of the heating element and the temperature sensor.
3. We attach the probes of the multimeter to the contacts of the heating element. If the display of the device shows a resistance in the region of 28 ohms (with a heating element power of 2 kW), then the heating element is working. If it shows zero or one, then it is faulty.
4. Now let's check the resistance of the temperature sensor. Disconnect the drain pipe from the tank and drain all the remaining water from it into a suitable container.
   

Note! When you drain the water from the tank, do not flood the contacts, wiring and motor, otherwise it will all have to be dried with a hair dryer.

1. We take out the temperature sensor from the connector and remove it to the side.
2. We collect warm water (30 0) in a mug and lower the temperature sensor there.
3. After a couple of minutes, we pull it out, set the multimeter to the minimum resistance value and lean the probes against the sensor contacts. If the device shows 40-60 ohms, then everything is in order, 0-1, then it is not in order.

Then you can check with your own hands the wires coming from the heating element and the temperature sensor to the control module by ringing them one by one. If the wires are intact, only the control module remains. We do not recommend climbing to the control board on our own, because if it is damaged, the repair will be very, very expensive - contact experienced craftsmen.

If the Asco automatic washing machine stops draining water and freezes, but it is dry under the washer body, then one of the following breakdowns has occurred:

• clogged pipes or drain hose;
• the pump is broken
• the water level sensor does not work;
• an open has occurred between the control board and the pump or between the control board and the level sensor.

Before looking for the causes of the problem in electrics and electronics, let's arrange a general cleaning of the Asco washing machine. Cleaning the washing machine from dirt will require some effort, but after that the normal draining of water can resume, and the “home helper” smell will be very pleasant.

If cleaning did not help solve the problem, you will have to arm yourself with a multimeter and check the pump, the water level sensor, and the electrician one by one for breakdowns. First, we call the pump, its operating resistance value is 144 ohms, then you need to ring the water level sensor, its resistance should be about 60 ohms. Well, in the end, we will ring the wires going to the control module for a break, if there is no break, then the matter is in the microcircuit and you need to contact a specialist.

For your information! You can get to the pump and water level sensor through the back wall of the washing machine.

In conclusion, I would like to once again focus on the following point. Most breakdowns of washing machines can be fixed by hand if you carefully read the service instructions and the information that we publish in our articles. But if the problem is in the electronics, then it’s better not to do the repair yourself, even the specialist who re-solders the board does not guarantee that it will work. Do not finish off your washing machine, trust the professionals!