In detail: Audi 80 b4 do-it-yourself repair of the rear caliper from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
AUDI 80 B4 REPAIR OF THE BACK SUPPORT. B4 AUDI 80 REPAIR OF THE BACK SUPPORT.
good luck in your endeavors, and by the way, advise the company what you take as they say cheap and angry)))
Still, in English it would be more correct: "repair of rear brake caliper"
For some reason, it is barely audible. It would be louder.
On my b4 (92g), the rear left pads are jammed. What could be the reason and how to fix it?
I finally disassembled it. The piston boot and the guide anthers, torn. One guide has climbed in and does not want to climb out. He heated the gas cylinder. With a gas wrench, turning clockwise and counterclockwise and pshykaya with a VD-wheel, he loosened it and pulled it out, all the same. One guide rail, but I worried about it). I pulled out the piston. They seem to be in order. But the brake is suspicious, as if with water (when The verdict is to change! But the video helped. Although I figured out what it looks like. It turns out nothing complicated. It remains to rinse and replace the brake. The discs have already been machined. It turned out, 7mm each. New 10mm. I have to go through for a long time.
I forgot to add. The piston got out and jammed. There was no lining on the inner pad. The iron was scraped against the iron. There was already a blue disc from the inside. But outside there was a lining of norms. Because of the guide, which had climbed in and got stuck, the piston could not move away from the disc. Could this be the cause of the jammed rear wheel brake? Not long before that, three times it was that the brakes seemed to disappear into the pedal, but it softly leaves, but there are no brakes. What was that? Before last year I went through, or rather the pads and anthers of the guides. There are no leaks anywhere.
 |
Video (click to play). |
I don't quite understand why your piston comes out / enters the caliper when scrolling? After all, the screw mechanism, which is installed in the piston itself, is fixed only with a retaining ring through the bearing, and freely rotates with pliers relative to the piston. I tried to twist the piston, the result is zero.
Updated: 2016-11-23
The condition of the entire vehicle depends on the condition and operation of the entire braking system. In addition, the occurrence of even the smallest problems and irregularities in the operation of the brake system can lead to serious negative consequences and costly repairs to the entire vehicle. Not to mention, if the braking system is broken every time the vehicle is used, the lives of the driver and passenger are in danger.
Particularly noteworthy is the study of the question: audi 80 b4 how the rear caliper works. We will find the answer by understanding what the rear caliper is, how it functions and what certain parts are responsible for. 
Let's take a look at what kind of device it is, the rear caliper. The rear caliper of the Audi 80 B4, like any other model, is a device with a special brake cylinder. This cylinder, together with the piston, is just the same move the caliper along the bracket. When the driver presses the brake pedal, pressure builds up in the brake line, causing the cylinder to push the piston out. After that, the pads are clamped by the piston. Thanks to the slow and smooth movement along the bracket, all conditions are created that are necessary for evenly sharing the load on both pads. Further, the pressure from the pads is already transferred to the brake disc.
After we figured out how the braking system works and what role the rear caliper plays in its functioning, let's literally go over it. After all, it is impossible to understand how the rear caliper of the Audi 80 b4 works if you do not know how it works and what its condition is.
First of all, inspect your rear brakes. Many drivers prefer to leave checking the working rear brakes for later, thinking that the case suffers.If you see the first signs of any malfunction in the brakes, do not delay repairing the defects and rebuilding the brakes. If you contact a car service, then the bulkhead of the brake system, inspection of the calipers and other services arising from these activities can get out into a decent amount. However, there is a way out - the rear caliper of the Audi 80 b4 can be sorted out on your own. So we reserve our patience and go to the garage.
Photos from the Vitek7778812 report from the drive:
To rebuild the device, we need:
- Hexagons for detailed disassembly of equipment into smallest parts.
- Special extractor for circlips.
- Wrenches in sizes 15, 14 and size 13. This is all you need for a quality bulkhead, but you may need more liquid at 40.
Now we proceed directly to the procedure itself. First, he raises the car on a jack, and carefully remove the wheel. After that, we remove the car from the parking brake, put an emphasis under the front wheel, press the parking brake flag and gradually remove the end of the cable from the engagement. Next, you need to remove the lock washer and remove the parking brake cable. After that, it is necessary to separate the rear caliper itself from the bracket, namely to unscrew it. After the caliper is unscrewed from the washer, you need to remove the pads and eliminate the pistons from the equipment. It seems that removing the pistons from the caliper is a very simple task. In fact, everything is different.
In order to get rid of the pistons, we sit behind the wheel and press the brake pedal several times, this allows you to pump the pressure, edit the direction of its action. We press this about ten times, and then return to the device that we want to iterate over. You will notice that the pistons come out almost completely after a few strokes with full force on the brakes. It remains only to unscrew them correctly. In order to unscrew the pistons, we proceed to disconnect the device from the brake hose. We do this using a fourteenth key. To unscrew the caliper, it must be rotated slowly and as gently as possible around the hose. After that, using hexagons, unscrew the bolts that hold the bracket and remove it. Next, unscrew the pistons from the bracket.
Please note that brake fluid usually collects in the calipers. Therefore, first drain the fluid from the equipment, and then carefully remove the pistons. After we disconnected the caliper, we begin to sort it out.
The bulkhead of the device, or the repair of the rear caliper on the Audi, if necessary, begins with the fact that you need to remove the retaining ring. Please note that the stopper is deep enough in the device to be difficult to get to. The situation is aggravated by the fact that there is very little space inside the device, and you also cannot see what exactly you are doing. Because of this, the process of removing the ring can take a long time. To facilitate the task, you can use a slotted screwdriver. After you remove the stopper rings, unscrew the nut with a 13 wrench.
The nut we need is used to secure the caliper flag. Removing it can provide some trouble, since during the operation of the device, it can stick tightly to the flag. To separate it, you can try to brush it, or soak it in vinegar. However, it will be most effective to use the VD 40 liquid. We soak the device in the VD 40 liquid for about 20-30 minutes, depending on the complexity of the situation. After that, we apply some more efforts and unscrew the nut.
We hit the stock several times, on which there was a nut before. After that, the part we need will drop out, and then remove the boot. After that, you can start cleaning the body of the paint device, if you plan to do so. If you need to bring the disassembly to its final completion, we disassemble the part that fell out of the stock. Namely, we take out the retaining ring, three washers under it and one bearing. And then we take out the stock itself. This completes the disassembly. Next, we make a thorough cleaning and assemble the device.
- Audi Model: 80s
- Body: B4
- Engine: AVT-mono-jet
- Volume (V): 2.0
- Box: MKPP
- Drive type: front
- Year of issue: 1994
- City: Rybinsk
- 1.JPG57.39K 559 Number of downloads:
- 2.JPG50.56K 524 Number of downloads:
- 4.JPG56.13K 543 Number of downloads:
- 5.JPG50.55K 530 Number of downloads:
- 6.JPG49.44K 515 Number of downloads:
- 8.JPG54.4K 538 Number of downloads:
- 9.JPG56.85K 541 Number of downloads:
- 10.JPG56.96K 537 Number of downloads:
- 11.JPG53.78K 542 Number of downloads:
- 12.JPG57.3K 502 Number of downloads:
1.JPG57.39K 559 Number of downloads:
- Audi Model: AUDI 80 - Sold.
- Body: B4
- Engine: AVT-mono
- Volume (V): 2.0
- Box: MKPP
- Drive type: front
- Year of issue: 1992
- City: Cherepovets
Thank you neshtyag
Truncated understood, and the new glass is beautiful: rolleyes3:
The old one is not so dead, but there are doubts: oups:
- Audi Model: AUDI A6 1.9 TDI 1996 1Z
- City: Latvia, Riga - Daugavpils
- Audi Model: Audi 80
- Body: B4
- Engine: ADA
- Volume (V): 1.6
- Box: MKPP
- Drive type: front
- Year of issue: 1994
- Moscow city
- Audi Model: A4 B5 ADR 1.8 96GV
- City: MO Korolyov
- Audi Model: 80s
- Body: B4
- Engine: AVT-mono-jet
- Volume (V): 2.0
- Box: MKPP
- Drive type: front
- Year of issue: 1994
- City: Rybinsk
to dooh: the question is - how to lubricate?
to Cheburashka: I did it, put on the clamp before unscrewing the hose, removed it after screwing on the caliper, before pumping.
to Zork: it was already pointless for me to grind, the hole would have turned out. The glass is simply wiped, carbon deposits were due to holes in the cuff at the edges of its groove, and on the chamfer. just pour it with VDshkoy, scrape off the carbon with a small sharp screwdriver, then a piece of fine skin, but without fanaticism, so as not to fail the size. By the way, the new piston is a little fuller, but I don't remember exactly how much.
- Audi Model: AUDI A6 1.9 TDI 1996 1Z
- City: Latvia, Riga - Daugavpils
1. Clean the outside of the caliper. Do not allow foreign objects to enter the opening of the hydraulic hose.
2. Clamp the caliper in a vise, piston up.
3. Remove the piston dust cap from the groove in the caliper.
4. On a Teves caliper, place a ram in the caliper jaws against the piston, then use compressed air to blow the piston out of the bore. Apply air through the brake fluid inlet.
5. On the Girling caliper, use a socket wrench to unscrew the piston from the hole.
6. Remove the piston seal from the bore, being careful not to scratch the bore surface. Remove the dust cap from the piston.
7. Unscrew the bleed nipple.
8. Clean all parts with methyl alcohol and allow to dry.
9. Check the condition of the piston surface and bore. Check the threads of the automatic adjuster. Check the caliper casing for signs of fluid leakage around the handbrake control lever. Check for wear on guide pins, seals and bushings. Replace parts as needed. On the Girling caliper, the suspension frame is already lubricated with the guide pins.
10. If the caliper and piston are in good condition, prepare a seal repair kit and brake cylinder paste.
11. Apply the paste to the bore and piston surfaces.
12. Place the piston seal in the groove in the bore.
13. To install the piston on the Teves caliper, first press the clips into the caliper up to the stop using a screwdriver. Place the dust cap on the smooth end of the piston, then place the piston against the caliper, turn it slightly so that the threads engage. Use a screwdriver to lift the dust cap into the groove in the caliper. Push the piston all the way into the bore, making sure it goes straight in and does not damage the automatic regulator. To perform this operation, the Audi tool shown in Fig. 9.20 is used.The G-clamp can also be used for this purpose. Once the piston enters the bore, the dust cap snaps into the groove on the outer end of the piston.
14. To install the piston on the Girling caliper, place the dust cap on the smooth end of the piston, then slide the piston against the caliper. Use a screwdriver to lift the dust cap into the groove in the caliper. Use a socket wrench to screw the piston into the hole. The dust cap will snap into the groove on the outer end of the piston.
15. Install a new rubber cap on the bleed nipple. Apply paste to the threads, then clamp the bleed nipple into the caliper.
16. The new Girling calipers are already filled with brake fluid. Audi also recommends filling and bleeding the Girling caliper after a bulkhead. The same procedure can also be performed on Teves calipers.
17. Clamp the caliper in a vise with the inlet facing up. Loosen the bleed union, connect the brake fluid supply hose to it. Fill the caliper until the fluid is free of air bubbles, then tighten the bleed nipple. Plug the inlet if necessary.
So, the problems arising with the braking system, using the example of your Audi 80 B3 and a description of the way to solve these problems. Conclusions and recommendations based on personal experience of repairing your car.
The most common problems:
burning smell (burning) from the front pads, jamming of the front pads
when pressed, the brake pedal has a large free travel or when pressed slowly goes to the floor
uneven braking of the rear wheels (as a rule, it is found out when passing a guest inspection)
a lot of free time
together
The first and prerequisite is the absence of brake fluid leaks in the entire system (i.e., the integrity of the hose pipes, etc.) pads of their operational properties, and possible distortion and uneven wear of the brake disc itself.
On the right is an overheated shoe, below is a brake pipe wrench.
In the worst case, overheating of the front caliper can adversely affect the health of the wheel bearing.
Possible reasons:
wedging of the brake pads themselves in the caliper.
Diagnosis: when removing the caliper, the pads do not move freely along the shelves of the fixed part of the caliper. Possible cause: corrosion of the caliper shelves - rust literally interferes with the movement of the pad.
How to eliminate: a metal brush and a small file - we clean off the rust, while paying attention to the absence of a visible workout in this shelf in the form of a hole.
If there is a development, then you should not count on excellent work, the block can be badly pressed down and move away from the disk under load. I removed the pits with a flat file, alternatively replacing the fixed part of the caliper.
It is advisable to lubricate the caliper shelf with high-temperature grease for the elements of the brake system.
Another possible reason: the installed pads are made with non-compliance with the proper dimensions and are inserted into the caliper cleaned from corrosion very tightly - when heated, the pad will heat up more than the caliper and, due to the increase in geometric dimensions, it will simply jam (it happens with cheap pads from little-known manufacturers).
How to eliminate: we take a file (grinder) and carefully cut the metal part of the block that lies on the support shelf, so that a total clearance of 1 - 1.5 mm is obtained (i.e., we provide the block with free movement on the shelves).
It is advisable to lubricate the caliper shelf with high-temperature grease for the elements of the brake system.
Wedging of the caliper guides is diagnosed as follows: remove the pads, assemble the caliper back without pads and move it along the guides. If the movement is difficult, we check if the guides are bent, clean, lubricate, in general, we achieve free movement.
The wedging of the caliper piston in the caliper body is diagnosed as follows: after the pads are jammed, we release the bleed fitting, but the wedging does not work.After removing the caliper, it is very difficult to press the piston into the caliper.
Previously, when replacing the pads on his car, he limited himself to driving the piston all the way in with a long screw several times, then using a pedal to bring the piston out, but excluding the cylinder from falling out of the caliper body. At the same time, damage to the caliper boot on the left side was noticed. This time he took more drastic measures.
Another reason: contamination or corrosion of the working surface of the caliper piston due to prolonged operation or damage to the integrity of the boot.
How to eliminate: the procedure is for the brave and desperate - we buy a repair kit for the front caliper and proceed to dismantle the caliper. First of all, you should make sure that the tubes, hoses and bleed fittings can be unscrewed. If you can unscrew the connection between the tube and the hose, then you have a good clamping wrench for the tube (see the first photo), if not, then you are out of luck and you should stock up on a new brake tube. Worse, if the fitting did not unscrew, I broke one - I had to weld on a nut by 17 with the help of a semiautomatic welding machine, on the third attempt it was possible to restore the mobility of the fitting. In the absence of a semiautomatic device, there is an option to drill out the remains of the fitting, which is done very carefully so as not to damage the threads in the caliper and requires a new fitting.
After making sure that the tubes and hoses can be unscrewed, we return the system to its original tightness and, using the brake pedal, push the piston out of the caliper body. Unscrew the brake hose / pipe connection and plug with a plug to avoid loss of all brake fluid. After that, we take out the old cuffs from the caliper body (in both calipers the cuffs were twisted, and at the same time it is clearly visible that it worked like that), but at the same time TK leaks were never noticed). In my case, in the right caliper on the surface of the piston and there was a small coating of rust inside the caliper - we remove the old cuff and boot and carefully remove the dirt on a polishing machine or using a drill with a polishing attachment and Goy's paste.
After that, we thoroughly wash everything with an old brake and a toothbrush and install a repair cuff, as well as replace the caliper boot, which has been very tired over the past 20 years. After all this, we assemble the caliper: first, we put the piston in the boot, and then in the cuff. I smeared everything with brake fluid and drove the piston in clockwise with pliers (use pliers to hold it by the edge of the piston, never by the working surface of the piston). We install the caliper in its original place and connect the hoses and tubes. We bleed the air from the caliper with a fitting, otherwise it was not possible to bring it to the pads. The first caliper must be replaced, otherwise the piston of the second caliper cannot be removed.
Repeat the procedure with the second support. In my case, the second caliper had a damaged boot, and after removing the piston, I was simply horrified: the piston had numerous traces of corrosion, the chrome-plated coating of the working surface was broken and raised by rust. After cleaning off the rust and polishing, cavities remain in the places of corrosion. It is better not to use such a piston.
and the car market is offered a used piston, the original is 25 thousand Belarusian rubles (about $ 12) and $ 25 for a new one. The purchased second-hand piston slightly differed from the native one in the height and location of the groove for the boot, but it was successfully installed. Alternatively, replace the caliper with a used one, but the procedure for restoring the caliper remains the same.
We install the caliper in place, clamp all the connections and pump the system.
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He began to sort out the calipers, ran into a problem, in general, I completely disassembled the caliper, under the parking brake flag there is an oil seal, from time to time it naturally turned into a piece of Mr.
here I dug it out a little
what do you think it can be replaced with?
quickly did you get involved in masturbation, I thought that they would lie down for another week, delicious beer
Why pull, the little hands were combed and now, it started
I have a problem not to unscrew the 2 hex bolts that attach the caliper to the rear beam.
a bit inserted into the head on a good extension cord (from half a meter) helps.
A year later, the repaired caliper again begins to strain the brain.
On all my cars the left one was covered, but yours?
if about the front, then after the bulkhead 2 years without problems (mmm), the rear is now picking, we'll see.
the quality of febi rubber bands or lucas trw or vag differs very well.
what do you think it can be replaced with?
I ordered myself LUCAS TRW repair kits for the rear calipers, in theory there it is full and there should be such a ring as it comes, I will unsubscribe, you will buy and replace it.
The rear left is already at 3-4 or four audyuhah, as if the system is some kind =)))
Off-topic.
Tell me why the door moldings are lower (rubber bands) A6 (C4), otherwise they offer some self-made ones for 2000-2500 rubles.
Wave Generator 25 Mar 2009
but I got a problem when removing the parking brake cable. and collected it without disassembling it ..
Well, probably on an empty stomach I tried to make out, and so, the screwdriver and pliers are doing their job
I ordered myself LUCAS TRW repair kits for the rear calipers, in theory there it is full and there should be such a ring as it comes, I will unsubscribe, you will buy and replace it.
This ring most likely goes to the screw rod, and under the flag there is a full-fledged oil seal, even with a spring
to Den261
I found such a repair kit, if you believe the photo, which is not there, it remains to put the caliper still))
Bosch 1 987 470 040
The kit is apparently universal for all calipers in a row, half of what is drawn there is not needed, the only thing that attracted attention was the presence of special lubricant, IMHO EXPENSIVE
Wave Generator 26 Mar 2009
ERROR . stuffing box dimensions 24X15X7 (type 2)
I bet the bore hole depth is 7mm, after polishing and cleaning the flag 15, it will be
Wave Generator 27 Mar 2009
you can argue, you can not, in the original there is such a size, then dance as you want
Thanks for the valuable information, it's just that nothing was left of my oil seals and you can't look at the number on them, you have to guess by the landing dimensions
He began to sort out the calipers, ran into a problem, in general, I completely disassembled the caliper, under the parking brake flag there is an oil seal, from time to time it naturally turned into a piece of Mr.
here I dug it out a little
what do you think it can be replaced with?
quickly did you get involved in masturbation, I thought that they would lie down for another week, delicious beer
Why pull, the little hands were combed and now, it started
I have a problem not to unscrew the 2 hex bolts that attach the caliper to the rear beam.
a bit inserted into the head on a good extension cord (from half a meter) helps.
A year later, the repaired caliper again begins to strain the brain.
On all my cars the left one was covered, but yours?
if about the front, then after the bulkhead 2 years without problems (mmm), the rear is now picking, we'll see.
the quality of febi rubber bands or lucas trw or vag differs very well.
what do you think it can be replaced with?
I ordered myself LUCAS TRW repair kits for the rear calipers, in theory there it is full and there should be such a ring as it comes, I will unsubscribe, you will buy and replace it.
The rear left is already at 3-4 or four audyuhah, as if the system is some kind =)))
Off-topic.
Tell me why the door moldings are lower (rubber bands) A6 (C4), otherwise they offer some self-made ones for 2000-2500 rubles.
Wave Generator 25 Mar 2009
but I got a problem when removing the parking brake cable. and collected it without disassembling it ..
Well, probably on an empty stomach I tried to make out, and so, the screwdriver and pliers are doing their job
I ordered myself LUCAS TRW repair kits for the rear calipers, in theory there it is full and there should be such a ring as it comes, I will unsubscribe, you will buy and replace it.
This ring most likely goes to the screw rod, and under the flag there is a full-fledged oil seal, even with a spring
to Den261
I found such a repair kit, if you believe the photo, which is not there, it remains to put the caliper still))
Bosch 1 987 470 040
The kit is apparently universal for all calipers in a row, half of what is drawn there is not needed, the only thing that attracted attention was the presence of special lubricant, IMHO EXPENSIVE
Wave Generator 26 Mar 2009
ERROR . stuffing box dimensions 24X15X7 (type 2)
I bet the bore hole depth is 7mm, after polishing and cleaning the flag 15, it will be
Wave Generator 27 Mar 2009
you can argue, you can not, in the original there is such a size, then dance as you want
Thanks for the valuable information, it's just that nothing was left of my oil seals and you can't look at the number on them, you have to guess by the landing dimensions
So, the problems arising with the braking system, using the example of your Audi 80 B3 and a description of the way to solve these problems. Conclusions and recommendations based on personal experience of repairing your car.
The most common problems:
burning smell (burning) from the front pads, jamming of the front pads
when pressed, the brake pedal has a large free travel or when pressed slowly goes to the floor
uneven braking of the rear wheels (as a rule, it is found out when passing a guest inspection)
a lot of free time
together
The first and prerequisite is the absence of brake fluid leaks in the entire system (i.e., the integrity of the hose pipes, etc.) pads of their operational properties, and possible distortion and uneven wear of the brake disc itself.
On the right is an overheated shoe, below is a brake pipe wrench.
In the worst case, overheating of the front caliper can adversely affect the health of the wheel bearing.
Possible reasons:
wedging of the brake pads themselves in the caliper.
Diagnosis: when removing the caliper, the pads do not move freely along the shelves of the fixed part of the caliper. Possible cause: corrosion of the caliper shelves - rust literally interferes with the movement of the pad.
How to eliminate: a metal brush and a small file - we clean off the rust, while paying attention to the absence of a visible workout in this shelf in the form of a hole.
If there is a development, then you should not count on excellent work, the block can be badly pressed down and move away from the disk under load. I removed the pits with a flat file, alternatively replacing the fixed part of the caliper.
It is advisable to lubricate the caliper shelf with high-temperature grease for the elements of the brake system.
Another possible reason: the installed pads are made with non-compliance with the proper dimensions and are inserted into the caliper cleaned from corrosion very tightly - when heated, the pad will heat up more than the caliper and, due to the increase in geometric dimensions, it will simply jam (it happens with cheap pads from little-known manufacturers).
How to eliminate: we take a file (grinder) and carefully cut the metal part of the block that lies on the support shelf, so that a total clearance of 1 - 1.5 mm is obtained (i.e., we provide the block with free movement on the shelves).
It is advisable to lubricate the caliper shelf with high-temperature grease for the elements of the brake system.
Wedging of the caliper guides is diagnosed as follows: remove the pads, assemble the caliper back without pads and move it along the guides. If the movement is difficult, we check if the guides are bent, clean, lubricate, in general, we achieve free movement.
The wedging of the caliper piston in the caliper body is diagnosed as follows: after the pads are jammed, we release the bleed fitting, but the wedging does not work. After removing the caliper, it is very difficult to press the piston into the caliper.
Previously, when replacing the pads on his car, he limited himself to driving the piston all the way in with a long screw several times, then using a pedal to bring the piston out, but excluding the cylinder from falling out of the caliper body. At the same time, damage to the caliper boot on the left side was noticed. This time he took more drastic measures.
Another reason: contamination or corrosion of the working surface of the caliper piston due to prolonged operation or damage to the integrity of the boot.
How to eliminate: the procedure is for the brave and desperate - we buy a repair kit for the front caliper and proceed to dismantle the caliper.First of all, you should make sure that the tubes, hoses and bleed fittings can be unscrewed. If you can unscrew the connection between the tube and the hose, then you have a good clamping wrench for the tube (see the first photo), if not, then you are out of luck and you should stock up on a new brake tube. Worse, if the fitting did not unscrew, I broke one - I had to weld on a nut by 17 with the help of a semiautomatic welding machine, on the third attempt it was possible to restore the mobility of the fitting. In the absence of a semiautomatic device, there is an option to drill out the remains of the fitting, which is done very carefully so as not to damage the threads in the caliper and requires a new fitting.
After making sure that the tubes and hoses can be unscrewed, we return the system to its original tightness and, using the brake pedal, push the piston out of the caliper body. Unscrew the brake hose / pipe connection and plug with a plug to avoid loss of all brake fluid. After that, we take out the old cuffs from the caliper body (in both calipers the cuffs were twisted, and at the same time it is clearly visible that it worked like that), but at the same time TK leaks were never noticed). In my case, in the right caliper on the surface of the piston and there was a small coating of rust inside the caliper - we remove the old cuff and boot and carefully remove the dirt on a polishing machine or using a drill with a polishing attachment and Goy's paste.
After that, we thoroughly wash everything with an old brake and a toothbrush and install a repair cuff, as well as replace the caliper boot, which has been very tired over the past 20 years. After all this, we assemble the caliper: first, we put the piston in the boot, and then in the cuff. I smeared everything with brake fluid and drove the piston in clockwise with pliers (use pliers to hold it by the edge of the piston, never by the working surface of the piston). We install the caliper in its original place and connect the hoses and tubes. We bleed the air from the caliper with a fitting, otherwise it was not possible to bring it to the pads. The first caliper must be replaced, otherwise the piston of the second caliper cannot be removed.
Repeat the procedure with the second support. In my case, the second caliper had a damaged boot, and after removing the piston, I was simply horrified: the piston had numerous traces of corrosion, the chrome-plated coating of the working surface was broken and raised by rust. After cleaning off the rust and polishing, cavities remain in the places of corrosion. It is better not to use such a piston.
and the car market is offered a used piston, the original is 25 thousand Belarusian rubles (about $ 12) and $ 25 for a new one. The purchased second-hand piston slightly differed from the native one in the height and location of the groove for the boot, but it was successfully installed. Alternatively, replace the caliper with a used one, but the procedure for restoring the caliper remains the same.
|
Video (click to play). |
We install the caliper in place, clamp all the connections and pump the system.
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