Audi 80 b4 do-it-yourself rear caliper repair

AUDI 80 B4 REPAIR OF THE BACK SUPPORT. B4 AUDI 80 REPAIR OF THE BACK SUPPORT.

good luck in your endeavors, and by the way, advise the company what you take, as they say, cheap and cheerful)))

Still, in English it would be more correct: “repair of rear brake caliper”

For some reason, it’s barely audible. Louder.

On my b4 (92g), the rear left pads are jammed. What could be the reason and how to fix it? Please advise.

I finally disassembled it. The piston anther and the anthers of the guides are torn. One guide climbed in and does not want to get out. He heated it with a gas spray. With a gas wrench, rotating clockwise and counterclockwise and puffing with the VD-shka, he loosened it and pulled it out, all the same. One guide, but I suffered with it). I pulled out the piston. They seem to be in order. ).The verdict is to change!But the video helped.At least I figured out what it looks like.It turns out to be nothing complicated.It remains to rinse and replace the brake fluid.I have already machined the disks.It turned out, 7mm.

I forgot to add. The piston got out and jammed. There was no lining on the inner block. Could this be the cause of a jammed rear wheel brake? I also noticed. Shortly before this, it happened three times that the brakes seemed to disappear. Into the pedal, and it gently goes away, but there are no brakes. What was it?

I don't quite understand why your piston goes out / enters the caliper when scrolling? After all, the screw mechanism, which is installed in the piston itself, is fixed only with a retaining ring through the bearing, and is freely scrolled with pliers relative to the piston. I tried to turn the piston, the result is zero.

Updated: 2016-11-23

The condition of the entire vehicle depends on the condition and operation of the entire braking system. In addition, the occurrence of even the smallest problems and malfunctions in the brake system can lead to serious negative consequences and costly repairs to the entire car. Not to mention the fact that in case of violations of the brake system with each use of the vehicle, the life of the driver and passenger is in danger.

The study of the issue deserves special attention: audi 80 b4 how the rear caliper works. We will find the answer to it by understanding what a rear caliper is, how it functions and what certain parts are responsible for.

Let's take a look at what this device is, the rear caliper. The rear caliper of the Audi 80 b4, like any other model, is a device with a special brake cylinder. This cylinder, together with the piston, just moves the caliper along the bracket. When the driver presses the brake pedal, pressure builds up in the brake line, causing the cylinder to push the piston out. After that, the piston clamps the pads. Thanks to the slow and smooth movement along the bracket, everything necessary for an even distribution of the load on both pads is created. Further, the pressure from the pads is already transferred to the disc brake system.

After we figured out how the brake system works, and what role the rear caliper plays in its functioning, let's literally sort it out. After all, you cannot understand how the Audi 80 b4 rear caliper works if you do not know how it works and what its condition is.

First of all, inspect your rear brakes. Many drivers prefer to leave the check of working rear brakes for later, thinking that the matter endures.If you see the first signs of any malfunctioning of the brakes, do not delay with the elimination of defects and the bulkhead of the brakes. If you contact a car service, then a brake system overhaul, inspection of calipers and other services arising from these events can cost a decent amount. However, there is a way out - the rear caliper of the Audi 80 b4 can be sorted out on your own. So we stock up on patience and go to the garage.

Photos from the Vitek7778812 report from the drive:

To sort the device, we need:

1. Hexagons for detailed disassembly of equipment into the smallest parts.
2. Special puller for retaining rings.
3. Wrenches size 15, 14 and size 13. This is all you need for a quality bulkhead, but you may need more WD 40 fluid.

Now we proceed directly to the procedure itself. First, raise the car on a jack, and carefully remove the wheel. After that, we remove the car from the handbrake, put an emphasis under the front wheel, press the handbrake flag and gradually remove the end of the cable from engagement. Next, you need to remove the lock washer and remove the handbrake cable. After that, it is necessary to separate the rear caliper itself from the bracket, namely, unscrew it. After the caliper is unscrewed from the washer, you need to get the pads and eliminate the pistons from the equipment. It seems that removing the pistons from the caliper is a very simple task. In fact, everything is different.

In order to get rid of the pistons, we sit behind the wheel and press the brake pedal several times, this allows you to pump pressure, edit the direction of its impact. We press this about ten times, and then return to the device that we want to iterate over. You will notice that the pistons almost completely come out after a few full-force strokes on the brakes. It remains only to unscrew them correctly. In order to unscrew the pistons, we proceed to disconnect the device from the brake hose. We do this with a key of the fourteenth size. To unscrew the caliper, it must be rotated slowly and as carefully as possible around the hose. After that, with the help of hexagons, we unscrew the bolts that hold the bracket and remove it. Next, unscrew the pistons from the bracket.

Note that brake fluid tends to accumulate in calipers. Therefore, first drain the liquid from the equipment, and then carefully remove the pistons. After we have disconnected the caliper, we begin to sort it out.

The bulkhead of the device, or the repair of the rear caliper on the Audi, if necessary, begins with the fact that you need to remove the retaining ring. Please note that the stopper in the device is deep enough that it is difficult to get close to it. The situation is further aggravated by the fact that there is very little space inside the device, and also you cannot see what exactly you are doing. Because of this, the process of removing the ring can take a long time. To facilitate the task, you can use a slotted screwdriver. After you remove the stop rings, unscrew the nut with a 13 wrench.

The nut we need is used to strengthen the caliper flag. Removing it can provide some trouble, since during the operation of the device, it can stick tightly to the flag. To separate it, you can try brushing it, or soak it in vinegar. However, it will be most effective to use liquid VD 40. We soak the device in liquid VD 40 for about 20-30 minutes, depending on the complexity of the situation. After that, we apply some more effort and unscrew the nut.

We hit the rod several times, on which there was a nut before. After that, the part we need will fall out, and then we remove the anther. After that, you can start cleaning the body of the device for painting, if you plan to do so. If you need to bring the disassembly to its final completion, we disassemble the part that has fallen out of the stock. Namely, we take out the retaining ring, three washers under it and one bearing. And after that we take out the stock itself. This completes the disassembly. Next, we perform a thorough cleaning and assemble the device.

Indigenous

1 749 messages

Registration 17-Nov 09

• Audi model: 80-ko
• Body: B4
• Engine : AVT-monovprytsk
• Volume (V): 2.0
• Box: MKPP
• Drive type: front
• Release year: 1994
• City: Rybinsk

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User

589 messages

Registration 16-Sep 09

• Audi model: AUDI 80 – sold.
• Body: B4
• Engine : AVT-mono
• Volume (V): 2.0
• Box: MKPP
• Drive type: front
• Release year: 1992
• City: Cherepovets

Thanks neshtyag
I understood everything, but the new glass is beautiful :rolleyes3:

My old one is not so dead, but there are doubts :oups:

User

307 messages

Registration 26-June 06

• Audi Model: AUDI A6 1.9 TDI 1996 1Z
• City: Latvia, Riga - Daugavpils

Indigenous

9 802 messages

Registration 29-March 09

• Audi Model: Audi 80
• Body: B4
• Engine : AD
• Volume (V): 1.6
• Box: MKPP
• Drive type: front
• Release year: 1994
• Moscow city

User

266 messages

Registration 09-Aug 09

• Audi model: A4 B5 ADR 1.8 96gv
• City: MO Korolev

Indigenous

1 749 messages

Registration 17-Nov 09

• Audi model: 80-ko
• Body: B4
• Engine : AVT-monovprytsk
• Volume (V): 2.0
• Box: MKPP
• Drive type: front
• Release year: 1994
• City: Rybinsk

to dooh: the question is - what to lubricate?

to Cheburashka: did just that, put on the clamp before unscrewing the hose, removed it after screwing on the caliper, before pumping.

to Zork: it was pointless for me to grind, the pit would have turned out. The glass is simply wiped, soot was due to holes in the cuff at the edges of its groove, and on the chamfer. just pour water over it, scrape off the soot with a small sharp screwdriver, then with a piece of fine skin, but without fanaticism, so as not to fail the size. By the way, the new piston is a little fuller, but I don’t remember exactly by how much.

User

307 messages

Registration 26-June 06

• Audi Model: AUDI A6 1.9 TDI 1996 1Z
• City: Latvia, Riga - Daugavpils

1. Clean the outer surface of the caliper. Do not allow foreign objects to get into the opening of the hydraulic hose.

2. Clamp the caliper in a vice, piston up.

3. Remove the piston dust cap from the groove in the caliper.

4. On a Teves caliper, place a flat in the jaws of the caliper against the piston, then use compressed air to blow the piston out of the bore. Apply air through the brake fluid inlet.

5. On the Girling caliper, use a socket wrench to unscrew the piston from the hole.

6. Remove the piston seal from the bore being careful not to scratch the bore surface. Remove the dust cap from the piston.

7. Turn off the pumping union.

8. Clean all parts with methanol and let dry.

9. Check up a condition of a surface of the piston and an aperture. Check the auto adjuster thread. Check the caliper housing for signs of fluid leakage around the handbrake control lever. Check for wear on guide pins, seals and bushings. Replace parts as needed. On the Girling caliper, the suspension frame, along with the guide pins, is already lubricated.

10. If the caliper and piston are in good condition, prepare a seal repair kit and brake cylinder paste.

11. Apply paste to bore and piston surfaces.

12. Position the piston seal in the bore groove.

13. To install the piston on the Teves caliper, first push the clamps into the caliper up to the stop using a screwdriver. Place the dust cap on the smooth end of the piston, then place the piston against the caliper, turn it slightly to engage the threads. Use a screwdriver to lift the dust cap into the groove in the caliper. Push the piston all the way into the hole, making sure it goes straight in and does not damage the auto adjuster. To perform this operation, the Audi tool shown in Figure 9.20 is used.A G-clamp can also be used for this purpose. Once the piston is in the bore, the dust cap will snap into place in the groove on the outer end of the piston.

14. To install the piston on the Girling caliper, place the dust cap on the smooth end of the piston, then place the piston against the caliper. Use a screwdriver to lift the dust cap into the groove in the caliper. Use a socket wrench to screw the piston into the hole. The dust cap will snap into the groove on the outer end of the piston.

15. Install a new rubber cap on the bleeder port. Apply paste to the threads, then clamp the bleeder screw into the caliper.

16. The new Girling calipers are already filled with brake fluid. Audi also recommends filling and bleeding the Girling caliper after a rebuild. A similar procedure can also be performed on Teves calipers.

17. Clamp the caliper in a vise, inlet up. Loosen the bleeder screw and connect the brake fluid supply hose to it. Fill the caliper until there are no air bubbles in the fluid, then tighten the bleed screw. Seal the inlet if necessary.

So, the problems that arise with the brake system, using the example of your Audi 80 B3, and a description of how to solve these problems. Conclusions and recommendations on the personal experience of repairing your car.

The most frequent problems:
the smell of burning (burnt) from the front pads, jamming of the front pads
the brake pedal has a lot of free play when pressed or slowly goes to the floor when pressed
uneven braking of the rear wheels (as a rule, it turns out during the passage of a guest inspection)
a lot of free time
together

The first and indispensable condition is the absence of brake fluid leaks in the entire system (i.e., the integrity of the hose tubes, etc.) The most frequent complaints of Audi owners fall on the front brakes - overheating, wedging, as a result, the smell of burning, with prolonged driving, loss pads of their operational properties, and possible curvature and uneven wear of the brake disc itself.