In detail: audi 80 b4 do-it-yourself rear caliper repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
AUDI 80 B4 REPAIR OF THE BACK SUPPORT. B4 AUDI 80 REPAIR OF THE BACK SUPPORT.
good luck in your endeavors, and by the way, advise the company what you take, as they say, cheap and cheerful)))
Still, in English it would be more correct: “repair of rear brake caliper”
For some reason, it’s barely audible. Louder.
On my b4 (92g), the rear left pads are jammed. What could be the reason and how to fix it? Please advise.
I finally disassembled it. The piston anther and the anthers of the guides are torn. One guide climbed in and does not want to get out. He heated it with a gas spray. With a gas wrench, rotating clockwise and counterclockwise and puffing with the VD-shka, he loosened it and pulled it out, all the same. One guide, but I suffered with it). I pulled out the piston. They seem to be in order. ).The verdict is to change!But the video helped.At least I figured out what it looks like.It turns out to be nothing complicated.It remains to rinse and replace the brake fluid.I have already machined the disks.It turned out, 7mm.
I forgot to add. The piston got out and jammed. There was no lining on the inner block. Could this be the cause of a jammed rear wheel brake? I also noticed. Shortly before this, it happened three times that the brakes seemed to disappear. Into the pedal, and it gently goes away, but there are no brakes. What was it?
 |
Video (click to play). |
I don't quite understand why your piston goes out / enters the caliper when scrolling? After all, the screw mechanism, which is installed in the piston itself, is fixed only with a retaining ring through the bearing, and is freely scrolled with pliers relative to the piston. I tried to turn the piston, the result is zero.
Updated: 2016-11-23
The condition of the entire vehicle depends on the condition and operation of the entire braking system. In addition, the occurrence of even the smallest problems and malfunctions in the brake system can lead to serious negative consequences and costly repairs to the entire car. Not to mention the fact that in case of violations of the brake system with each use of the vehicle, the life of the driver and passenger is in danger.
The study of the issue deserves special attention: audi 80 b4 how the rear caliper works. We will find the answer to it by understanding what a rear caliper is, how it functions and what certain parts are responsible for. 
Let's take a look at what this device is, the rear caliper. The rear caliper of the Audi 80 b4, like any other model, is a device with a special brake cylinder. This cylinder, together with the piston, just moves the caliper along the bracket. When the driver presses the brake pedal, pressure builds up in the brake line, causing the cylinder to push the piston out. After that, the piston clamps the pads. Thanks to the slow and smooth movement along the bracket, everything necessary for an even distribution of the load on both pads is created. Further, the pressure from the pads is already transferred to the disc brake system.
After we figured out how the brake system works, and what role the rear caliper plays in its functioning, let's literally sort it out. After all, you cannot understand how the Audi 80 b4 rear caliper works if you do not know how it works and what its condition is.
First of all, inspect your rear brakes. Many drivers prefer to leave the check of working rear brakes for later, thinking that the matter endures.If you see the first signs of any malfunctioning of the brakes, do not delay with the elimination of defects and the bulkhead of the brakes. If you contact a car service, then a brake system overhaul, inspection of calipers and other services arising from these events can cost a decent amount. However, there is a way out - the rear caliper of the Audi 80 b4 can be sorted out on your own. So we stock up on patience and go to the garage.
Photos from the Vitek7778812 report from the drive:
To sort the device, we need:
- Hexagons for detailed disassembly of equipment into the smallest parts.
- Special puller for retaining rings.
- Wrenches size 15, 14 and size 13. This is all you need for a quality bulkhead, but you may need more WD 40 fluid.
Now we proceed directly to the procedure itself. First, raise the car on a jack, and carefully remove the wheel. After that, we remove the car from the handbrake, put an emphasis under the front wheel, press the handbrake flag and gradually remove the end of the cable from engagement. Next, you need to remove the lock washer and remove the handbrake cable. After that, it is necessary to separate the rear caliper itself from the bracket, namely, unscrew it. After the caliper is unscrewed from the washer, you need to get the pads and eliminate the pistons from the equipment. It seems that removing the pistons from the caliper is a very simple task. In fact, everything is different.
In order to get rid of the pistons, we sit behind the wheel and press the brake pedal several times, this allows you to pump pressure, edit the direction of its impact. We press this about ten times, and then return to the device that we want to iterate over. You will notice that the pistons almost completely come out after a few full-force strokes on the brakes. It remains only to unscrew them correctly. In order to unscrew the pistons, we proceed to disconnect the device from the brake hose. We do this with a key of the fourteenth size. To unscrew the caliper, it must be rotated slowly and as carefully as possible around the hose. After that, with the help of hexagons, we unscrew the bolts that hold the bracket and remove it. Next, unscrew the pistons from the bracket.
Note that brake fluid tends to accumulate in calipers. Therefore, first drain the liquid from the equipment, and then carefully remove the pistons. After we have disconnected the caliper, we begin to sort it out.
The bulkhead of the device, or the repair of the rear caliper on the Audi, if necessary, begins with the fact that you need to remove the retaining ring. Please note that the stopper in the device is deep enough that it is difficult to get close to it. The situation is further aggravated by the fact that there is very little space inside the device, and also you cannot see what exactly you are doing. Because of this, the process of removing the ring can take a long time. To facilitate the task, you can use a slotted screwdriver. After you remove the stop rings, unscrew the nut with a 13 wrench.
The nut we need is used to strengthen the caliper flag. Removing it can provide some trouble, since during the operation of the device, it can stick tightly to the flag. To separate it, you can try brushing it, or soak it in vinegar. However, it will be most effective to use liquid VD 40. We soak the device in liquid VD 40 for about 20-30 minutes, depending on the complexity of the situation. After that, we apply some more effort and unscrew the nut.
We hit the rod several times, on which there was a nut before. After that, the part we need will fall out, and then we remove the anther. After that, you can start cleaning the body of the device for painting, if you plan to do so. If you need to bring the disassembly to its final completion, we disassemble the part that has fallen out of the stock. Namely, we take out the retaining ring, three washers under it and one bearing. And after that we take out the stock itself. This completes the disassembly. Next, we perform a thorough cleaning and assemble the device.
- Audi model: 80-ko
- Body: B4
- Engine : AVT-monovprytsk
- Volume (V): 2.0
- Box: MKPP
- Drive type: front
- Release year: 1994
- City: Rybinsk
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- Audi model: AUDI 80 – sold.
- Body: B4
- Engine : AVT-mono
- Volume (V): 2.0
- Box: MKPP
- Drive type: front
- Release year: 1992
- City: Cherepovets
Thanks neshtyag
I understood everything, but the new glass is beautiful :rolleyes3:
My old one is not so dead, but there are doubts :oups:
- Audi Model: AUDI A6 1.9 TDI 1996 1Z
- City: Latvia, Riga - Daugavpils
- Audi Model: Audi 80
- Body: B4
- Engine : AD
- Volume (V): 1.6
- Box: MKPP
- Drive type: front
- Release year: 1994
- Moscow city
- Audi model: A4 B5 ADR 1.8 96gv
- City: MO Korolev
- Audi model: 80-ko
- Body: B4
- Engine : AVT-monovprytsk
- Volume (V): 2.0
- Box: MKPP
- Drive type: front
- Release year: 1994
- City: Rybinsk
to dooh: the question is - what to lubricate?
to Cheburashka: did just that, put on the clamp before unscrewing the hose, removed it after screwing on the caliper, before pumping.
to Zork: it was pointless for me to grind, the pit would have turned out. The glass is simply wiped, soot was due to holes in the cuff at the edges of its groove, and on the chamfer. just pour water over it, scrape off the soot with a small sharp screwdriver, then with a piece of fine skin, but without fanaticism, so as not to fail the size. By the way, the new piston is a little fuller, but I don’t remember exactly by how much.
- Audi Model: AUDI A6 1.9 TDI 1996 1Z
- City: Latvia, Riga - Daugavpils
1. Clean the outer surface of the caliper. Do not allow foreign objects to get into the opening of the hydraulic hose.
2. Clamp the caliper in a vice, piston up.
3. Remove the piston dust cap from the groove in the caliper.
4. On a Teves caliper, place a flat in the jaws of the caliper against the piston, then use compressed air to blow the piston out of the bore. Apply air through the brake fluid inlet.
5. On the Girling caliper, use a socket wrench to unscrew the piston from the hole.
6. Remove the piston seal from the bore being careful not to scratch the bore surface. Remove the dust cap from the piston.
7. Turn off the pumping union.
8. Clean all parts with methanol and let dry.
9. Check up a condition of a surface of the piston and an aperture. Check the auto adjuster thread. Check the caliper housing for signs of fluid leakage around the handbrake control lever. Check for wear on guide pins, seals and bushings. Replace parts as needed. On the Girling caliper, the suspension frame, along with the guide pins, is already lubricated.
10. If the caliper and piston are in good condition, prepare a seal repair kit and brake cylinder paste.
11. Apply paste to bore and piston surfaces.
12. Position the piston seal in the bore groove.
13. To install the piston on the Teves caliper, first push the clamps into the caliper up to the stop using a screwdriver. Place the dust cap on the smooth end of the piston, then place the piston against the caliper, turn it slightly to engage the threads. Use a screwdriver to lift the dust cap into the groove in the caliper. Press the piston all the way into the hole, making sure it goes straight in and does not damage the auto adjuster. To perform this operation, the Audi tool shown in Figure 9.20 is used.A G-clamp can also be used for this purpose. Once the piston is in the bore, the dust cap will snap into place in the groove on the outer end of the piston.
14. To install the piston on the Girling caliper, place the dust cap on the smooth end of the piston, then place the piston against the caliper. Use a screwdriver to lift the dust cap into the groove in the caliper. Use a socket wrench to screw the piston into the hole. The dust cap will snap into the groove on the outer end of the piston.
15. Install a new rubber cap on the bleeder port. Apply paste to the threads, then clamp the bleeder screw into the caliper.
16. The new Girling calipers are already filled with brake fluid. Audi also recommends filling and bleeding the Girling caliper after a rebuild. A similar procedure can also be performed on Teves calipers.
17. Clamp the caliper in a vise, inlet up. Loosen the bleeder screw and connect the brake fluid supply hose to it. Fill the caliper until there are no air bubbles in the fluid, then tighten the bleed screw. Seal the inlet if necessary.
So, the problems that arise with the brake system, using the example of your Audi 80 B3, and a description of how to solve these problems. Conclusions and recommendations on the personal experience of repairing your car.
The most frequent problems:
the smell of burning (burnt) from the front pads, jamming of the front pads
the brake pedal has a lot of free play when pressed or slowly goes to the floor when pressed
uneven braking of the rear wheels (as a rule, it turns out during the passage of a guest inspection)
a lot of free time
together
The first and indispensable condition is the absence of brake fluid leaks in the entire system (i.e., the integrity of the hose tubes, etc.) The most frequent complaints of Audi owners fall on the front brakes - overheating, wedging, as a result, the smell of burning, with prolonged driving, loss pads of their operational properties, and possible curvature and uneven wear of the brake disc itself.
On the right is an overheated pad, on the bottom is a wrench for brake pipes.
In the worst case, overheating the front caliper can adversely affect the health of the wheel bearing.
Possible reasons:
wedging the brake pads themselves in the caliper.
Diagnosis: when removing the caliper, the pads do not freely move along the shelves of the fixed part of the caliper. Possible cause: corrosion of the caliper shelves - rust literally interferes with the movement of the pad.
How to fix it: a metal brush and a small file - we clean off the rust, while paying attention to the absence of visible working in this shelf in the form of a hole.
If there is a working out, then you should not count on excellent work, the pad may not press well and move away from the disk under load. I removed the holes with a flat file, as an option, replacing the fixed part of the caliper.
It is advisable to lubricate the caliper shelf with high-temperature grease for brake system elements.
Another possible reason: the installed pads are not made with the proper dimensions and are inserted into the caliper cleaned of corrosion very tightly - when heated, the pad will heat up more than the caliper and will simply jam due to an increase in geometric dimensions. (It happens with cheap pads from little-known manufacturers).
How to fix it: we take a file (grinder) and carefully cut the metal part of the block that lies on the caliper shelf, so that we get a total gap of 1 - 1.5 mm (i.e. we provide the block with free movement along the shelves).
It is advisable to lubricate the caliper shelf with high-temperature grease for brake system elements.
Wedging of the caliper guides is diagnosed as follows: remove the pads, assemble the caliper back without pads and move along the guides. If the movement is difficult, we check whether the guides are bent, clean, lubricate, in general we achieve free movement.
The wedging of the caliper piston in the caliper body is diagnosed as follows: after the pads are jammed, we release the bleed valve, but wedging does not work.After removing the caliper, it is very difficult to press the piston into the caliper.
Previously, when replacing the pads on my car, I limited myself to several times driving the piston all the way inward with the help of a long screw, then using the pedal to bring the piston out, but excluding the cylinder from falling out of the caliper body. At the same time, damage to the anther of the caliper on the left side was noticed. This time he took more drastic measures.
Another reason: contamination or corrosion of the working surface of the caliper piston due to long-term operation or violation of the integrity of the anther.
How to fix it: a procedure for the brave and desperate - we buy a front caliper repair kit and proceed to disassemble the caliper. First of all, you should make sure that the tubes, hoses and bleeder fittings can be untwisted. tube. Worse, if the fitting did not unscrew, I broke one - I had to weld the nut to 17 with the help of a semi-automatic welding machine, on the third attempt I managed to restore mobility to the fitting. In the absence of a semiautomatic device, there is an option to drill out the remains of the fitting, which is done very carefully so as not to damage the thread in the caliper and requires a new fitting.
After making sure that the tubes and hoses can be untwisted, we return the system to its original tightness and, using the brake pedal, push the piston out of the caliper body. We unscrew the connection of the brake hose / tube and turn off the plug to avoid losing all the brake fluid. After that, we take out the old cuff from the caliper body (the cuff was twisted in both calipers. and at the same time it is clearly visible that it worked like that), but at the same time, there were never any leaks of the TK). In my case, in the right caliper on the piston surface and inside the caliper there was a slight rust coating - we remove the old cuff and anther and carefully remove the dirt on a polishing machine or using a drill with a polishing nozzle and Goya paste.
After that, we thoroughly wash everything with an old brake fluid and a toothbrush and install a repair cuff, and also replace the caliper anther, which has been very tired over the past 20 years. After all this, we assemble the caliper: first, we put the piston in the boot, and then in the cuffs. I lubricated everything with brake fluid and drove the piston by turning it clockwise with pliers (hold the pliers by the edge of the piston, in no case by the working surface of the piston). We install the caliper in its native place and connect the hoses and tubes. We bleed air from the caliper with a fitting, otherwise it was not possible to bring it to the pads. The first caliper must be returned to its place, otherwise it will not be possible to remove the piston of the second caliper.
With the second caliper, repeat the procedure. In my case, the second caliper had a damaged anther, and after removing the piston, I was simply horrified: the piston surface had numerous traces of corrosion, the chrome coating of the working surface was broken and rusted up. After cleaning off the rust and polishing, shells remained in places of corrosion. It is better not to use such a piston.
and the car market is offered a used original piston for 25 thousand Belarusian rubles (about $ 12) and $ 25 for a new one. The purchased second-hand piston was slightly different from the native one in height and location of the boot groove, but it was successfully installed. As an option, replace the caliper with a used one, but the procedure for restoring the caliper remains the same.
We install the caliper in place, clamp all the connections and pump the system.
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He began to sort out the calipers, ran into a problem, in general, completely dismantled the caliper, there is an oil seal under the handbrake flag, from time to time it naturally turned into a piece of Mr.
here i tweaked it a bit
what do you think it can be replaced with?
quickly, you took up masturbation, I thought that they would lie down for another week, delicious beer
And why pull, the little hands itched and, behold, things went
I have a problem, do not unscrew the 2 hex bolts that secure the caliper to the rear beam.
a bit inserted into the head on a good extension cord (from half a meter) helps.
A year later, the repaired caliper again begins to strain the brain
On all my cars, the left one was covered, but what about you?
if regarding the front ones, then after the bulkhead 2 years without problems (ttt), now I'm picking the rear ones, we'll see.
the quality of some rubber bands febi or lucas trw or vag differs very decently.
what do you think it can be replaced with?
I ordered LUCAS TRW repair kits for the rear calipers, in theory it is full there and there should just be such a ring, as it comes, I’ll unsubscribe, buy it for myself and replace it.
The rear left one is already at 3-4 or four audi, as if some kind of system =)))
Off-topic.
Tell me why the lower moldings on the door (rubber bands) A6 (C4), otherwise they offer some self-made ones for 2000-2500 rubles.
Wave Generator 25 Mar 2009
I had a problem when I removed the handbrake cable. so I collected it without disassembly ..
Well, probably on an empty stomach I tried to make it out, and so, a screwdriver and pliers do their job
I ordered LUCAS TRW repair kits for the rear calipers, in theory it is full there and there should just be such a ring, as it comes, I’ll unsubscribe, buy it for myself and replace it.
This ring most likely goes to the screw stem, and under the flag there is a full-fledged gland even with a spring
to Den261
I found such a repair kit, according to the photo, which is just not there, it remains to put the caliper still))
Bosch 1 987 470 040
The kit is apparently universal for all calipers in a row, half of what is drawn there is not needed, the only thing that attracted attention was the presence of special grease, IMHO EXPENSIVE
Wave Generator 26 Mar 2009
ERROR . gland dimensions 24X15X7 (type 2)
I bet the mounting hole is 7mm deep, after polishing and cleaning the flag 15 it will be the most
Wave Generator 27 Mar 2009
you can argue, you can not, in the original there is such a size, then dance as you want
Thanks for the valuable information, it’s just that nothing was left of my oil seals and you can’t look at the number on them, you have to guess by the landing dimensions
He began to sort out the calipers, ran into a problem, in general, completely dismantled the caliper, there is an oil seal under the handbrake flag, from time to time it naturally turned into a piece of Mr.
here i have tweaked it a bit
what do you think it can be replaced with?
quickly, you took up masturbation, I thought that they would lie down for another week, delicious beer
And why pull, the little hands itched and, behold, things went
I have a problem, do not unscrew the 2 hex bolts that secure the caliper to the rear beam.
a bit inserted into the head on a good extension cord (from half a meter) helps.
A year later, the repaired caliper again begins to strain the brain
On all my cars, the left one was covered, but what about you?
if regarding the front ones, then after the bulkhead 2 years without problems (ttt), now I'm picking the rear ones, we'll see.
the quality of some rubber bands febi or lucas trw or vag differs very decently.
what do you think it can be replaced with?
I ordered LUCAS TRW repair kits for the rear calipers, in theory it is full there and there should just be such a ring, as it comes, I’ll unsubscribe, buy it for myself and replace it.
The rear left one is already at 3-4 or four audi, as if some kind of system =)))
Off-topic.
Tell me why the lower moldings on the door (rubber bands) A6 (C4), otherwise they offer some self-made ones for 2000-2500 rubles.
Wave Generator 25 Mar 2009
I had a problem when I removed the handbrake cable. so I collected it without disassembly ..
Well, probably on an empty stomach I tried to make it out, and so, a screwdriver and pliers do their job
I ordered LUCAS TRW repair kits for the rear calipers, in theory it is full there and there should just be such a ring, as it comes, I’ll unsubscribe, buy it for myself and replace it.
This ring most likely goes to the screw stem, and under the flag there is a full-fledged gland even with a spring
to Den261
I found such a repair kit, according to the photo, which is just not there, it remains to put the caliper still))
Bosch 1 987 470 040
The kit is apparently universal for all calipers in a row, half of what is drawn there is not needed, the only thing that attracted attention was the presence of special grease, IMHO EXPENSIVE
Wave Generator 26 Mar 2009
ERROR . gland dimensions 24X15X7 (type 2)
I bet the mounting hole is 7mm deep, after polishing and cleaning the flag 15 it will be the most
Wave Generator 27 Mar 2009
you can argue, you can not, in the original there is such a size, then dance as you want
Thanks for the valuable information, it’s just that nothing was left of my oil seals and you can’t look at the number on them, you have to guess by the landing dimensions
So, the problems that arise with the brake system, using the example of your Audi 80 B3, and a description of how to solve these problems. Conclusions and recommendations on the personal experience of repairing your car.
The most frequent problems:
the smell of burning (burnt) from the front pads, jamming of the front pads
the brake pedal has a lot of free play when pressed or slowly goes to the floor when pressed
uneven braking of the rear wheels (as a rule, it turns out during the passage of a guest inspection)
a lot of free time
together
The first and indispensable condition is the absence of brake fluid leaks in the entire system (i.e., the integrity of the hose tubes, etc.) The most frequent complaints of Audi owners fall on the front brakes - overheating, wedging, as a result, the smell of burning, with prolonged driving, loss pads of their operational properties, and possible distortion and uneven wear of the brake disc itself.
On the right is an overheated pad, on the bottom is a wrench for brake pipes.
In the worst case, overheating the front caliper can adversely affect the health of the wheel bearing.
Possible reasons:
wedging the brake pads themselves in the caliper.
Diagnosis: when removing the caliper, the pads do not move freely along the shelves of the fixed part of the caliper. Possible reason: corrosion of the caliper shelves - rust literally interferes with the movement of the pad.
How to fix it: a metal brush and a small file - we clean off the rust, while paying attention to the absence of visible working in this shelf in the form of a hole.
If there is a working out, then you should not count on excellent work, the pad may not press well and move away from the disk under load. I removed the holes with a flat file, as an option, replacing the fixed part of the caliper.
It is advisable to lubricate the caliper shelf with high-temperature grease for brake system elements.
Another possible reason: the installed pads are not made with the proper dimensions and are inserted into the caliper cleaned of corrosion very tightly - when heated, the pad will heat up more than the caliper and will simply jam due to an increase in geometric dimensions. (It happens with cheap pads from little-known manufacturers).
How to fix it: we take a file (grinder) and carefully cut the metal part of the pad that lies on the caliper shelf, so that we get a total gap of 1 - 1.5 mm (i.e. we provide the pad with free movement along the shelves).
It is advisable to lubricate the caliper shelf with high-temperature grease for brake system elements.
Wedging of the caliper guides is diagnosed as follows: remove the pads, assemble the caliper back without pads and move along the guides. If the movement is difficult, we check whether the guides are bent, clean, lubricate, in general we achieve free movement.
The wedging of the caliper piston in the caliper body is diagnosed as follows: after the pads are jammed, we release the bleed valve, but wedging does not work. After removing the caliper, it is very difficult to press the piston into the caliper.
Previously, when replacing the pads on my car, I limited myself to several times driving the piston all the way inward with the help of a long screw, then using the pedal to bring the piston out, but excluding the cylinder from falling out of the caliper body. At the same time, damage to the anther of the caliper on the left side was noticed. This time he took more drastic measures.
Another reason: contamination or corrosion of the working surface of the caliper piston due to long-term operation or violation of the integrity of the anther.
How to fix it: a procedure for the brave and desperate - we buy a front caliper repair kit and proceed to disassemble the caliper.First of all, you should make sure that the tubes, hoses and bleeder fittings can be untwisted. tube. Worse, if the fitting did not unscrew, I broke one - I had to weld the nut to 17 with the help of a semi-automatic welding machine, on the third attempt I managed to restore mobility to the fitting. In the absence of a semiautomatic device, there is an option to drill out the remains of the fitting, which is done very carefully so as not to damage the thread in the caliper and requires a new fitting.
After making sure that the tubes and hoses can be untwisted, we return the system to its original tightness and, using the brake pedal, push the piston out of the caliper body. We unscrew the connection of the brake hose / tube and turn off the plug to avoid losing all the brake fluid. After that, we take out the old cuff from the caliper body (the cuff was twisted in both calipers. and at the same time it is clearly visible that it worked like that), but at the same time, there were never any leaks of the TK). In my case, in the right caliper on the piston surface and inside the caliper there was a slight rust coating - we remove the old cuff and anther and carefully remove the dirt on a polishing machine or using a drill with a polishing nozzle and Goya paste.
After that, we thoroughly wash everything with an old brake fluid and a toothbrush and install a repair cuff, and also replace the caliper anther, which has been very tired over the past 20 years. After all this, we assemble the caliper: first, we put the piston in the anther, and then in the cuffs. I lubricated everything with brake fluid and drove the piston by turning it clockwise with pliers (hold the pliers by the edge of the piston, in no case by the working surface of the piston). We install the caliper in its native place and connect the hoses and tubes. We bleed air from the caliper with a fitting, otherwise it was not possible to bring it to the pads. The first caliper must be returned to its place otherwise it will not be possible to remove the piston of the second caliper.
With the second caliper, repeat the procedure. In my case, the second caliper had a damaged anther, and after removing the piston, I was simply horrified: the piston surface had numerous traces of corrosion, the chrome coating of the working surface was broken and rusted up. After cleaning off the rust and polishing, shells remained in places of corrosion. It is better not to use such a piston.
and the car market is offered a used original piston for 25 thousand Belarusian rubles (about $ 12) and $ 25 for a new one. The purchased second-hand piston was slightly different from the native one in height and location of the boot groove, but it was successfully installed. As an option, replace the caliper with a used one, but the procedure for restoring the caliper remains the same.
|
Video (click to play). |
We install the caliper in place, clamp all the connections and pump the system.
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