Audi a4 do-it-yourself engine repair

The ADP engine was installed on cars:

Volkswagen Passat B5 / Volkswagen Passat B5 (3B2) 1997 - 2001
Volkswagen Passat Variant B5 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B5 (3B5) 1997 - 2001

Audi A4 B5 / Audi A4 B5 (8D2) 1995 – 2001
Audi A4 Avant B5 / Audi A4 Avant B5 (8D5) 1996 - 2002
Audi A4 Cabriolet / Audi A4 Cabriolet (8G7) 1997 - 2000

Greetings gentlemen. In general, I had to sit in the shoes of a car mechanic, so to speak. services are very greedy. I had a problem, on the second cylinder there was a constant detonation. Arriving like that in the garage, I decided to measure the compression. The result of measurements (in brackets are data with the addition of 5 cubes of clean engine oil): 13.8 10.5 (14) 12.5 11.5 (12.5). As you can see, oil compression i.e. These are piston rings. It was decided to open the dviglo and change the rings (as a result, I changed more parts than I had to, so to speak, so as not to climb twice). Here are the parts I bought:

1. Piston Rings Mahle (nominal size)
2. Victor Reinz oil pan gasket
3. Victor Reinz intake manifold gasket
4. Head gasket Victor Reinz
5. Victor Reinz exhaust manifold gasket
6. Victor Reinz valve cover gasket
7. Air and oil filter Knecht/Mahle
8. Distributor cover and Beru slider
9. Connecting rod bearings Kolbenshmidt
10. Victor Reinz cylinder head bolts
11. Victor Reinz valve stem seals
12. Everything else (VAG pan bolts, Victor Reinz camshaft oil seal, VAG crackers, SWAG connecting rod bolts, Gaskets, and so on.)
13. A set of inlet and outlet valves Freccia (Italy) (They were bought as a set, because the old valves, or rather one valve turned out to be crooked and did not rub at all, it was decided to replace all the valves completely)

Well let's go. I think that I will describe the standard procedure for disassembling the "muzzle" of the Audi in brief, occasionally adding pictures of the process. We actually pull out the bumper plugs on the right and left. In the space of the plugs there are two screws for the hexagon on each side, we unscrew them. Actually, I forgot. First things first, before disassembling Be sure to disconnect the battery, preferably two terminals. Next, I removed the front wheels and put the car on jack stands. We unscrew three screws in each locker for a small TORX nozzle (sorry, I didn’t remember which nozzles were needed, I use the Force set). We snap off the bumper on both sides, and take it to the side. We see in front of us the brackets on which the bumper is mounted

We screw the bolt into the empty ear of the left bracket, but not completely. A bolt that was unscrewed from the space of the bumper plugs) To keep the muzzle on them. Next, unscrew and remove the headlights completely, attaching the wings to the front of the car. In general, we twist everything that prevents the removal of the muzzle from the car. We remove the trim from the power steering reservoir, there we see connectors sitting on the bracket. We disconnect them all for greater clarity and simplicity, we also disconnect the connector from the air conditioning compressor on the left side of the car) By the way, I forgot to say, as soon as you remove the bumper, unscrew the mugs (so to speak, the plastic lining on the air conditioner radiator), you will see a faucet on the bottom right of the radiator, put it on a suitable piece of hose on it, and substitute an empty container. Thus, you will merge the antifreeze, but not all. Antifreeze can be drained from the block by unscrewing the drain bolt under the pump. Drain antifreeze set it aside, we do not need it yet. Having unscrewed all the bolts holding the muzzle, and disconnected the connectors, remove the muzzle and put it aside so that it does not interfere. You will also need to unscrew the protection mount from below (who has it).

This is with the top timing case removed. Next, remove the belts. To remove the alternator belt, take the 17 key into the groove and pull the tensioner counterclockwise, insert a suitable bolt or nail into a special hole and remove the alternator belt. By the way, before that you have to remove the viscous fan:

Next, remove the air conditioning compressor belt tensioner:

Everything is simple there, unscrew the compressor tension bolt, remove the belt, and unscrew the bolt holding the tensioner.Next, remove the power steering pump belt. There are 3 bolts on the pump pulley for an internal hexagon, unscrewing these bolts in turn, holding the belt with the other hand (squeezing its two halves with the upper and lower palms, as if making a stopper), remove the pump pulley half, remove the belt, remove the second half. By the way, I forgot to say again, when the alternator belt was removed, it is necessary to unscrew the bolts securing the tensioner to the alternator. Yes, the belts have been removed. Now unfasten the top cover of the timing case. We take the head by 20 and start turning the crankshaft bolt to align the marks on the camshaft, crankshaft, distributor and in the flywheel / gearbox bell:

When the marks matched everywhere, then asking an assistant, locking the crankshaft with a head and a ratchet by 20, unscrew the bolts of the crankshaft pulley. Next, we unscrew the fastenings of the lower timing belt cover: 2 bolts for an internal hexagon, a bolt for 13, and a washer for 10 (the washer is screwed onto a stud in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pump housing). Remove the bottom cover. Now you can drain the oil by unscrewing the drain plug by 19 (sort of) from the oil pan. After draining the oil, set it aside, we will not need it anymore. I also removed the coolant tank in order to wash it (i.e. I didn’t see that coolant or rusty water was floating in it). Here washed.

Now, as you can see, the coolant is red (pink), which is very pleasing.

Now you can unscrew the plastic tee behind the block head. Two bolts for 13) Antifreeze can pour out (at least it happened to me, because I didn’t unscrew and didn’t drain the coolant from the block). Now you can remove the timing belt. Having put everything on the marks, unscrew the tensioner bolt, and unscrew the tensioner itself. We remove the belt, having previously marked the direction of its rotation (clockwise), in order to put everything back later). We unscrew the tensioner roller, remove the roller and put it aside:

We begin to unscrew the valve cover bolts. Remove the cover, take out the oil deflector

We begin to unscrew the camshaft covers. First, unscrew the covers 5,1,3 crosswise, then crosswise 2 and 4, half a turn per pass, until they can be unscrewed by hand. Next, unscrew the head from the block. There goes an asterisk T55)

These are the tops in the photo. They are still from the factory. I don’t complain about work, so it was decided to leave. With the head off, here's what we see

All soot, the head has not been removed since 1996)) So the condition is excellent. Here is a picture of the head from the valve side. Everything is on fire

Next, I started trying to get to the pan bolts. I want to make sure No subframes need to be unscrewed. This is ADP. The only thing you need to loosen the pillow bolts, jack up the engine through two blocks into the air conditioner bracket and raise the engine. Then we unscrew this “horseshoe”

This horseshoe is a support for the engine and box at the same time. It is held by three bolts for an internal hexagon by 16 by 65, one bolt with a nut by 45 and two bolts by 95) Remove the horseshoe, and begin to unscrew the pallet bolts around the perimeter. There are 18 of them, the rear ones are the most difficult to unscrew, because. the hand is between the subframe and the pallet, God forbid the jack will fly off, you will be left without hands, therefore Safety is paramount. Be careful guys). Having unscrewed the pallet, we remove it. It won’t work the first time, just knock with a mallet from a hammer and it will peel off. We see a reflector.

Take it off carefully, it can be easily broken. Here's what kind of pallet it was.

Now, we take the head at 14 and begin to unscrew the connecting rod covers of the pistons. Pull out carefully, pushing from below, and without damaging the crankshaft journals. Here they are pistons after 15 years of work.

We remove the rings, trying not to damage the edges of the pistons, I broke a couple)) Gee)))

Then we begin to wash the piston, or rather coat it with chemistry, so to speak. I used Amway oven cleaner

Let's start with the head. We take a piece of a plastic bottle, cut out about a piece of 20 * 20 cm, turn it into a tube and put it into the well, having previously removed the hydraulic lifters (carefully, without exerting any effort) and put them in the order they were removed, with the valves up so that the oil does not leak out. We begin to crack the valves. This process is described everywhere on the Internet, there is nothing complicated) We take out the valve:

After washing the head, wipe it dry by wiping it in front of this solvent. Because The valves are new and need to be ground in. We take lapping paste. I took a two-component, gave something about 50 rubles.We lubricate the valve stem with clean engine oil, insert it into the guide, on the other hand we put a hose of a suitable size on the valve stem, apply a little lapping paste on the valve chamfer and begin to grind the valves in a circular motion, constantly changing the position of the valve.

And so with each valve, honestly speaking, my hands hurt for a week after lapping. Then we insert the valves into their places, turning the head over with the working part (the part that is directed to the cylinders), twist the candles into the candle holes so that the kerosene does not leak out, and fill it with kerosene, checking for leaks.

We begin to collect the head. We insert the valve with an oiled rod, put on a protective cap on the valve, take the valve stem seal soaked in engine oil (before assembling, I just poured all the caps into a jar of oil), and put it on the rod. We take the MSK collet puller and push the cap all the way (not forgetting to put a plastic mandrel in the well, which we made from an empty plastic bottle, so as not to scratch the walls of the well), then the springs in the order they were removed, the spring plate, and begin to dry))) It is better to do it together, you can really catch hemorrhoids. We put the hydraulic lifters in the same places from where we removed them.

It's me) Thick, lapping the valve.

The camshaft seal needs to be replaced. We put the camshaft:

And we fasten the right moment, first crosswise covers 2 and 4, then 1.3 and 5, lubricating the first cover with sealant, but without fanaticism and in the place where the joint is, closer to the camshaft gear. Next, I put the head on small wooden dies so that the valves under the hydraulic lifters close. It is generally not recommended to immediately put the head, or rather start the engine. Piston, clean.

We begin to put the rings on the piston))) We dress carefully so as not to break the rings, we again need a part of the plastic bottle, a strip 5 cm long and 1.5 cm wide. Use it as guides, we will lower the rings along them. Oh yes, before planting the rings, lubricate the grooves under the rings and the rings themselves with plenty of engine oil) We change the connecting rod bearings, also generously lubricating the seats and the bearings themselves with oil. We arrange the rings as in the figure.

Checked the position of the rings, a good car mechanic suggested Lehan

We take a mandrel for pistons (I took a universal one), carefully put the piston, push it into the cylinder, which is abundantly lubricated with oil, tapping the cylinder with a hammer handle, we drive the piston into the cylinder. Watch out for the rings, they can climb out of the mandrel) Having put all the pistons in place, we begin to tighten the connecting rod caps at the right moment. We assemble everything in the reverse order, cleaning out the remnants of the old gaskets, wiping the docking areas with a solvent, and putting new gaskets. I also replaced the oil seals on the intermediate shaft, crankshaft (there is an oil seal and a paper gasket, I blocked the crankshaft, resting a part of the crankshaft through the planks into the cylinder block with two planks). The crankshaft bolt needs to be changed. We put all the belts in place, placing them in the right direction. We put the intake manifold, exhaust.

We change the gaskets where necessary, twist everything at the right moment. We put the head like this:

1. Align the piston at approximately the same level

2. We put the cylinder head, put new bolts and tighten it with the right moment, having previously cleaned the mating surfaces and ALWAYS remove any remaining oil and coolant from the bolt holes.
Tightening torques: 1. 30 Nm 2. 60 Nm 3. Turn 90 degrees 4. Turn 90 degrees in a certain order. It's in every repair manual.

3. We set the mark on the camshaft

4. Catching up with the mark on the crankshaft

By the way, who really loves that all the marks stand in place, then it will be necessary to combine the mark on the intermediate shaft (dot) and the crankshaft pulley and at the same time, so that the slider looks at the risk on the distributor housing. Well, that's basically all.At the first start, we unscrew the candles, remove the connector from the Hall sensor, pull out fuse No. 28 (responsible for the fuel pump), fill in liquids and oil according to the level. We oil the starter with a couple of approaches for 40-50 seconds. Then we put the candles, connect the Hall Sensor, insert the fuse into place and start the car. Here, after the repair, I decided to polish my charm.

It is not always easy to come to the conclusion about the feasibility of a complete overhaul of the engine, since it is necessary to be based on a number of objective indicators.

High mileage is not a sufficient indicator of the need for a major overhaul, on the other hand, low mileage does not exclude the need for a major overhaul. The most important indicator seems to be the timeliness of routine engine maintenance. With a timely oil and filter change, as well as when all other necessary maintenance work is performed, the engine serves reliably for many thousands of kilometers. On the contrary, insufficient or untimely maintenance can cause a sharp reduction in engine life.

Increased oil consumption indicates wear on the piston rings, valve guides and valve stem seals. Make sure that leaks do not cause increased oil consumption, and only then conclude that the piston rings and valve guides are unsuitable. To determine the likely cause of the malfunction, measure the compression in the engine cylinders.

To determine the amount of work to be done, check the compression in the engine cylinders. Also test with a vacuum gauge and determine the nature of the readings of this device.

Check the oil pressure with a pressure gauge screwed into place of the oil pressure sensor and compare the test result with the standard value. If the oil pressure is low, then the cause may be worn main and connecting rod bearings or parts of the oil pump.

Loss of power, engine “dips”, knocking or metal knocks, increased noise from the gas distribution mechanism, increased fuel consumption indicate the need for a major overhaul, especially if all these signs of abnormal operation appear at the same time. If the performance of all adjustments does not lead to improvement, then the only remedy for abnormal operation of the engine is a major overhaul. An overhaul consists in restoring engine parts to the condition specified in the technical data for a new engine.

During a major overhaul, pistons and piston rings are replaced, cylinders are bored or honed. After the repair of the cylinders, which is carried out in a specialized workshop, the installation of repair pistons will be required. The connecting rod and main bearings of the crankshaft, as well as the covers of the camshaft bearing journals, must also be replaced; if necessary, the crankshaft journals should be ground to restore normal clearances with the connecting rod and main bearings. As a rule, valves are also subject to repair, since their condition at the time of repair, as a rule, is not entirely satisfactory. During the overhaul of the engine, repairs are also carried out on such units as the starter, generator and ignition distributor. As a result, the repaired engine must have the qualities of a new unit and withstand a significant mileage without failure. Warning

During a major overhaul, important parts of the cooling system such as hoses, drive belts, thermostat and coolant pump should be replaced. The radiator should be examined for tightness and cleanliness of the internal channels. If you bought a repair engine, or an incomplete cylinder block, then some suppliers do not guarantee the operation of these units without high-quality flushing of the radiator. When overhauling the engine, it is also recommended to replace the oil pump.

Before starting an engine overhaul, review the relevant procedures to get an idea of ​​the scope and requirements of the work ahead. Subject to all norms and rules, with all the necessary tools and fixtures, overhaul is easy to perform, but it will take a significant amount of time. Approximately it will take at least two weeks, especially if you have to go to a specialized workshop to repair and restore parts. Check the availability of spare parts and take care of purchasing the necessary special tools and equipment in advance.

Almost all work can be done with a standard set of tools, although precise measuring instruments will be needed to check and determine the suitability of certain parts. Often, the condition of the parts is checked in specialized workshops, which also receive recommendations for the replacement or restoration of certain parts.
Warning

You should contact the car service workshops only after completely disassembling the engine and checking the condition of all parts, especially the cylinder block, in order to decide which maintenance and repair operations will be performed in the workshops.

Since the condition of the cylinder block is the determining factor in making a decision on its further repair or on the purchase of a new (or repair) cylinder block, it is necessary to buy spare parts or perform machining operations on related parts only after a thorough check of its technical condition. Make it a rule that the true cost of repairs is time so you don't have to pay to install worn or remanufactured parts.

In conclusion, we note that the assembly of any units should be carried out with all care in a clean room in order to avoid further failures of the repaired engine and ensure its reliable operation.

Without exception, all cars of the Audi brand bribe their owner with good dynamics and reliability of units and assemblies. The car of this brand is a combination of the most advanced technical innovations and German thoroughness. In addition to new models, now used ones are also quite in demand. Most of them are decades old. In this regard, Audi owners are faced with engine repairs. The materials in this section will help you repair the engine on the Audi a6 with your own hands.

How to repair an Audi 80 engine? These sedans have not been produced for over 15 years. Therefore, the engine requires periodic inspections, replacement of some parts and operating fluids.

In the same section, all the training materials necessary to do the repair of the Audi A6 engine with your own hands. This model is also not new. For her, they offer a fairly wide selection of power units, designed for driving with completely different "driver" requests. For example, an economical turbodiesel or a 300 hp V8 petrol. With. In general, you can change the pump or filter yourself, and it is better to entrust the master to carry out more complex repairs. There is no need to risk expensive parts, and some types of work require special skills and equipment.

Everyone knows the reliability of a car brand like Audi, regardless of the model. But no matter how reliable the car is, during operation you have to change certain parts either at the service or on your own. There are many car owners who do-it-yourself Audi A4 repair. Someone may just like to do something on their own, but for some, the services of the service seem too expensive. Basically, attention has to be paid to the suspension of the car, the fuel system, and, well, other little things. Some even after an accident restore cars on their own.

The main thing to remember when repairing the Audi A4 with your own hands is that all actions are performed correctly, and after that you do not have to contact the service and pay money.Some malfunctions of the car will be considered below, in particular, the repair of the ABS unit and the headlight auto-corrector sensor.

The ABS unit may not work for various reasons. It can fail completely and need to be replaced, someone buys a car with a no longer working unit and has to repair it. For those who have no experience with microelements, it is better not to get into the block, because you can make it even worse. If the ABS indicator on the panel does not light up, we begin to look for a problem. It is necessary to short-circuit two wires - yellow / red and brown and solder them. After that, the lamp starts to burn. But even after that, vag-com does not work. The block needs to be repaired.

To do this, remove the front left wheel and fender liner. Next, the washer reservoir and hydraulic fluid are removed. Two connectors are removed - from the block itself and from below. It is necessary to unscrew 6 bolts using the T-20 and remove the ABS unit. As a result, we have the electronic part of the block in our hands. Next, you need to open it with a construction knife. Inside you need to find two thin silver wires. Usually in this place there is poor contact or none at all. At the points of contact of these wires, possible oxidation must be removed. To restore contact, a thin copper wire is taken and soldered to the site from the side of the connector. Silver wires are tinned.

Next, you need to move the copper wiring to the silver one and solder them together. The rest is cut into pieces. Then the block needs to be sealed back, you can use hot melt adhesive. After it is installed in the reverse order and checked by vag-com. If it is clear with the ABS unit, then sometimes the headlight auto-corrector sensors on the Audi A4 can cause trouble. In most cases, these sensors fail due to condensation.

Although Hella is one of the best, if not the best manufacturer of optics, it still doesn’t take care of moisture protection very well. This is expressed in the fact that the board is not varnished. Although all joints are dense, moisture, nevertheless, forms there. There is only a small hole in the body to equalize the pressure when the temperature changes. Perhaps, through this hole gradually and penetrates moisture. As a result, after opening the case, moisture is observed inside.

How to organize the correct replacement of the power plant in the Audi A4: tips for choosing a donor and carrying out manipulations

Not everyone is able to keep leadership in modern market conditions: engineers have to constantly improve the units and facilitate the design as a whole. Frequent experiments call into question the main feature of the machine - reliability. The most vulnerable organ is most often the power plant.

The first two generations of the legendary "four" were equipped with units, the service life of which was quite high. In terms of efficiency and environmental friendliness, gasoline and diesel units lose to modern ones, but their level of reliability still fit into the framework of the common concept of "German quality".

On generations B4 and B5 Audi A4 engine replacement was done for the following reasons:

• complete wear of the main parts of the motor;
• the desire to give the car a more sporty character.

In practice, there are a fairly large number of cases when the power plant has already completely exhausted its resource, and the vehicle body is in perfect condition. Therefore, the logical way out of the situation is to replace the unit with a new one.

The explanation for the second reason is as follows: versions with powerful engines, as a rule, V-shaped sixes with a volume of 2.4 - 3.0 liters, were produced in limited quantities. In this regard, these copies do not often “shine” in the secondary market, and those who want to join the German power are only increasing.

With a generation of new engines with TSI, TFSI, FSI technologies, the VW concern began to equip the B7 generation and the modern B8. The owners note the capriciousness of the power plants and the presence in their design of a large number of minor flaws. However, only a small part decides to stabilize the situation by installing a new motor.

You should not worry about the location of the mounts: engineers have always pursued the goal of standardizing the main landing dimensions. The most "hot" topic here is the possibility of combining a certain pair of "gearbox - engine". No less acute is the issue of accommodation of the control system for another motor.

Analyzing the above, it should be noted that replace the engine in any Audi A4 only possible if the following conditions are met:

• the unit and the car are of the same generation;
• the power plant is suitable for the available box type;
• The ECM is absolutely identical to the regular one.

A subtle feature of the selection process is precisely the last point. Replacing the unit with an identical one, as a rule, does not cause any problems with the electronics.

Problems begin to appear when the donor is either a newer generation car or the same modification, but with a more powerful engine. In the second case, you just need to additionally replace the computer. The first scenario may not take place at all, since at least the ECU unit and the dashboard will not be linked.

Owners of B4 and B5 should be extremely careful when choosing: the seats in manual and automatic transmissions are different. The design of the response body in the motor, therefore, will also vary. However, experienced auto mechanics say that in some cases, alteration is possible.

A motor designed to work with a manual transmission can be adapted for an automatic transmission by turning the end of the crankshaft. The machining allowance is about 1.5 - 2 mm. The operation is simple and absolutely every turner can do it. In the opposite situation, an additional bearing must be installed.

According to the owners, it can be argued that the operation does not have a high level of complexity. The list of transitions is quite simple and includes a standard set of manipulations:

• disconnect all electrics and electronics;
• dismantle the intake tract;
• remove the exhaust manifold.

A notable feature here is the process of removing the engine from the engine compartment: the power plant is displayed in the direction of the car. So for engine replacement on any representative of the Audi A4 family it is necessary to first dismantle the front part, including the bumper, headlights and radiator frame.

Replacing the motor on the "four" from Audi is a very real operation that does not have a high level of complexity. The most important role here is assigned to the choice of the donor. The problems of the technological process depend on the degree of compliance of power plants with each other: significant differences are eliminated with the help of metalworking equipment and a new control system.

A detailed photo report on replacing the timing belt on a car with an AUDI A4 with a 1.8T ANB engine. First of all, all the necessary components for the repair were purchased.
Timing kit (belt, tensioner pulley, tensioner) - Ina 530007010
Timing roller bypass — VAG 058109244
Common ribbed belt - Contitech 5PK1300
Power steering belt / pump - Gates 6301MC
Poly V-belt pulley / damper bolts 4 pcs - VAG N10303607

Now we proceed to the replacement of the timing itself.
We remove the bumper, side T25, central SW6.

To put the “muzzle” in the service position, I removed the air duct, the rubber seal of the hood, I unscrew the two fastenings of the air conditioning compressor pipes, the head for 10, from below, on both sides of the intake pipes, a minus screwdriver, then the “TV”, the top 4 pcs. T30, side 2 pcs. T30, basic 7 pcs. T45. I screw a long bolt from the bumper mount a couple of centimeters into the left (along the way of the car) main mount of the “TV”, so that a large gap appears between the left headlight and the wing, and pull the right side forward as far as the air conditioner compressor tube allows and substitute a brick support and timber.

We remove the plastic covers of the engine and timing.

He removed the air conditioning compressor belt by unscrewing the roller, key SW6. Open-end wrench 17 squeezed the tensioner and removed the V-ribbed belt, removed the tensioner, key 13. To unscrew the viscous coupling, removed the nozzle from the throttle, SW8 key + homemade key, minus screwdriver.

Remove pump belt to replace.In order to stop the pulley, I inserted a knob between the triangular flange of the pump axis and the power steering pulley. Key SW6.

I set the camshaft and crankshaft marks, twisted clockwise. Hexagonal head 19.

Holding the crankshaft with a key, I unscrewed the V-ribbed belt pulley, key SW6. This is not the best moment in replacing the timing, if the edges stick together in the bolts (and they stick together, the law of meanness), then you will have to remove the air conditioner radiator, power steering radiator, drain the coolant, disconnect the wiring and move the “TV” more to get to these tools with the tool bolts. This time, the bolts unscrewed without any problems, because I had already removed the pulley, stepped on this rake and changed the bolts to new ones. And this time I installed new ones.

Old photos when the pulley did not unscrew.

We remove the lower plastic protection of the timing, the tube for 10, SW5, SW6. We put marks on the old belt and the direction of movement.

As Elsa says, I couldn’t squeeze the tensioner with a hexagon and insert the stopper, so I unscrewed the central bolt of the roller and removed it (for the first time in my car I needed a key for 14.), then the tensioner (tube for 10, roller bypass head for 13) and the belt . I could not check the performance of the old tensioner, since my vise does not move apart to such a distance.

I count the number of teeth between the marks on the old belt, transfer to a new one.

I fasten a new roller without a tensioner, first of all I put the belt on the crankshaft pulley, oil pump, roller and lastly the camshaft pulley. I check the marks several times.

We put the tensioner, I pull out the stopper.

After installing a new belt, the marks shifted to half a tooth, I don’t have half a tooth, but there is a little.

To make sure that everything is in order, I crank the crankshaft a couple of times, check the marks.

I fasten the timing protection, poly-V-belt pulley with new bolts. To evenly tighten the pump pulley and tighten the belt, I tightened each bolt a little, turning the pulley.

I fasten the viscous coupling, put on the V-ribbed belt.

I did not change the air conditioning compressor belt, since it is more alive than all the living.

I turn on the TV. First, I tighten the upper bolts, setting uniform gaps between the headlights and wings, then the side, main ones. I fasten the fastenings of the air conditioner pipes, the intake pipes from the bottom, put on the rubber seal of the hood, put the air duct.

I made sure that the right hatch of the headlight washer nozzle did not stick out of the bumper. Everything is finished. Now, when starting a cold engine in the morning, there are no squeaks / crackles.

Original part numbers required:
VAG 058109119C - Timing Belt
VAG 058109243E - Tensioner pulley
VAG 058109244 - Bypass roller
VAG 058109479B – Timing belt tensioner
VAG 06B903137E – Poly-V-belt common
VAG 06B260849A – Air conditioning compressor belt
VAG 058145271 – Power Steering Belt/Pump

How to independently replace the timing belt of an Audi A4 V6? Below

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How to replace the timing belt of an Audi a4 b5 1.8T car yourself? Below

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How to replace and repair the pump yourself

How to replace the timing belt of an Audi car yourself

How to replace the fuel filter in an Audi A6 yourself? Leisurely

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How to replace lower control arms

Audi A4 and A4 Avant (Typ B5/8D) with petrol 4-cylinder engines: ADP/AHL/ARM/ANA 1.6 l (1595 cm³) 100 hp/74 kW, ADR/APT/ARG/AEB/APU /ANB/AWT 1.8 l (1781 cm³) 125-150 hp/92-110 kW, six-cylinder AGA/ALF/APS/ARJ/AML 2.4 l (2393 cm³) 165 hp/121 kW, ABC 2.6 l (2598 cm³) 150 hp/110 kW, AGB/AZB 2.7 l (2671 cm³) 265 hp/195 kW, AAH/ACK/ALG/APR/AQD 2.8 l (2771 cm³) 174-193 hp/128-142 kW and turbo diesel 1Z/AHU/AHH/AFN/AVG/AJM/ATJ 1.9 l (1896 cm³) 90-110-115 hp/66-81-85 kW, AFB/AKN 2.5 l (2460 cm³) 150 hp/110 kW; Operation, maintenance and repair manual, wiring diagrams, technical characteristics, design features, device, diagnostics.Illustrated practical edition passenger car of the middle class Audi A4 (B5) with all-metal load-bearing bodies four-door sedan (11.1994-10.2000) and five-door Avant station wagon (01.1996-09.2001) front- and all-wheel drive (Quattro) models of the fifth generation of production from November 1994 to September 2001

Audi A4/S4 Avant B5 video oil change in gearbox 01E and differential, spark plugs V6 2.7 l (Audi A4/S4 B5 94-01)

The glow number is contained in the designation of the spark plug.
Deciphering the designation of the candle:
Example Bosch Spark Plugs
F 7 L T C R
1 2 3 4 5 6
1) W - thread M 14 x 1.25 with flat seal. SW 21 (SW - turnkey size);
F - thread M 14 x 1.25 with flat seal, SW 16;
M - thread M 18 x 1.5 with flat seal, SW 25;
H - thread M 14 x 1.25 with conical seal, SW 16;
D - thread M 18 x 1.5 with conical seal, SW 21.
2) Heat number. The heat scale value is indicated from 06 (“cold”) to 13 (“warm”). In this case, the number 7 corresponds to the thermal value 175 (former designation), 6 - 200.5-225, etc.
3) A - thread length 12.7 mm, normal trajectory of the spark discharge;
B - thread length 12.7 mm, elongated spark discharge trajectory;
C - thread length 19 mm, normal trajectory of the spark discharge;
D - thread length 19 mm, elongated spark discharge trajectory;
L - thread length 19 mm, far elongated spark discharge trajectory.
4) Execution of electrodes: T - 3 electrodes of mass.
5) Center electrode material: when
no designation - Cr-Ni - alloy;
C - Ni-Cu - alloy;
S - silver;
P - platinum;
O - standard candle with a reinforced central electrode.
6) Execution: R - means the presence of a protective resistor (to reduce the burning of the electrodes).

Removal and installation of spark plugs
Spark plugs are replaced every 60,000 km as part of maintenance.
Note: Single block 4-cylinder vertical-cylinder (RS4) engine with letter designation ASJ/AZR has spark plugs replaced every 30,000 km. Replacing spark plugs for this engine is not described here.
Caution: Change spark plugs only when the engine is cold or warm to the touch. If the spark plugs are removed while the engine is hot, the spark plug threads in the light alloy cylinder head may be stripped.

Books and manuals Audi A4 (B7) for free

Repair and maintenance manual Audi A4 (B7)

– Audi A4 (B7) repair in photos
- detailed description of the components and assemblies of the car
– do-it-yourself elimination of typical malfunctions of the Audi A4 (B7)
- color wiring diagrams

Audi A4 (B7) Owner's Manual and Service Manual

– user guide
– Audi A4 (B7) service manual
- trouble-shooting
– interactive wiring diagram

– pinout of electrical connectors Audi A4 (B7)
– features of electrical equipment
– Troubleshooting electrical equipment
– detailed electrical diagram

Catalog of parts and assembly units Audi A4 (B7)

– table of interchangeability of parts for cars Audi A4 (B7)
– designed for service station workers and car owners
– parts catalog

Audi A4 (B7) engine repair manual

– complete technical specifications of the Audi A4 (B7) engine
– features of the design and repair of the engine
– do-it-yourself troubleshooting of the Audi A4 (B7) engine
- a detailed description of the processes of disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly of the engine with photographs

Workshop manual gearboxes Audi A4 (B7)

- full technical specifications of the gearbox
– features of the design and repair of the gearbox
– Troubleshooting the gearbox and transmission of the Audi A4 (B7)
- a detailed description of the processes of disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly of the Audi A4 (B7) gearbox with photos

Audi A4 (B7) injector error codes

- description and diagram of the injector
– decoding of codes of malfunctions of the engine
– injector troubleshooting
– pinout of injection and electrical wiring

– tuning Audi A4 (B7) with your own hands
– engine tuning, body tuning, suspension tuning
– multimedia tuning guide