Audi a4 do-it-yourself engine repair

The ADP engine was installed on cars:

Volkswagen Passat B5 / Volkswagen Passat B5 (3B2) 1997 - 2001
Volkswagen Passat Variant B5 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B5 (3B5) 1997 - 2001

Audi A4 B5 / Audi A4 B5 (8D2) 1995 - 2001
Audi A4 Avant B5 / Audi A4 Avant B5 (8D5) 1996 - 2002
Audi A4 Cabriolet / Audi A4 Convertible (8G7) 1997 - 2000

Greetings gentlemen. In general, I had to sit in the shoes of a car mechanic, so to speak. services are very greedy. I had a problem, there was a constant detonation on the second cylinder. Arriving somehow in the garage, I decided to measure the compression. The total of measurements (data in brackets are indicated with the addition of 5 cubes of pure engine oil): 13.8 10.5 (14) 12.5 11.5 (12.5). As you can see, oil compression, i.e. these are piston rings. It was decided to open the dviglo and change the rings (as a result, I changed more parts than was necessary, so to speak, so as not to climb twice). Here I bought spare parts:

1. Mahle Piston Rings (nominal size)
2. Oil pan gasket Victor Reinz
3. Victor Reinz intake manifold gasket
4. Victor Reinz cylinder head gasket
5. Victor Reinz exhaust manifold gasket
6. Valve cover gasket Victor Reinz
7. Air and oil filter Knecht / Mahle
8. Distributor cover and Beru slider
9. Kolbenshmidt connecting rod bearings
10. Victor Reinz cylinder head bolts
11. Valve seals Victor Reinz
12. Everything else (VAG pallet bolts, Victor Reinz camshaft oil seal, VAG crackers, SWAG connecting rod bolts, Gaskets, etc.)
13. A set of inlet and outlet valves from Freccia (Italy) (They were purchased as a set, because the old valves, or rather one valve turned out to be crooked and did not rub at all, it was decided to completely replace all the valves)

Well, let's go. I think that I will describe the standard procedure for disassembling the "muzzle" of the Audi in brief, occasionally adding pictures of the process. Actually we take out the bumper plugs on the right and left. In the space of the plugs there are two hexagon screws on each side, we unscrew them. Actually, I forgot. First things first, before disassembling, you must Be sure to disconnect the battery, preferably two terminals... Next, I took off the front wheels and put the car on the props. We unscrew in each locker three screws for a small TORX nozzle (sorry, I did not remember what nozzles were needed, I use the Force set). We snap off the bumper on both sides, and take it to the side. We see in front of us the brackets on which the bumper is attached

We screw the bolt into the empty eyelet of the left bracket, but not completely. The bolt that was unscrewed from the space of the plugs from the bumper) To keep the muzzle on them. Next, unscrew and remove the headlights completely, fastening the fenders to the front of the car. In general, we twist everything that interferes with the removal of the muzzle from the car. We remove the cover from the power steering reservoir, there we see the connectors on the bracket. We disconnect them all for greater clarity and simplicity, we also disconnect the connector from the air conditioner compressor on the left side of the car) By the way, I forgot to say, as soon as you remove the bumper, unscrew the mugs (so to speak, the plastic covers on the air conditioner radiator), you will see a faucet on the bottom right of the radiator, put on a suitable piece of hose on it, and substitute an empty container. This will drain the antifreeze, but not all of it. Antifreeze can be drained from the block by unscrewing the drain bolt under the pump. Drain the antifreeze and set it aside, we don't need it yet. Having unscrewed all the bolts holding the muzzle, and having disconnected the connectors, we remove the muzzle and put it aside so that it does not interfere. You will also need to unscrew the fastening of the protection from the bottom (who has it).

This is with the upper timing case removed. Next, remove the belts. To remove the alternator belt, take the 17 key into the groove and pull the tensioner counterclockwise, insert a suitable bolt or nail into a special hole and remove the alternator belt. By the way, before that you have to remove the viscous coupling fan:

Next, remove the A / C compressor belt tensioner:

Everything is simple there, unscrew the compressor tension bolt, remove the belt, and unscrew the bolt holding the tensioner. Next, remove the power steering-pump belt. On the pump pulley there are 3 bolts for an internal hexagon, unscrewing these bolts in turn, holding the belt with the other hand (squeezing its two halves with the upper and lower palm, as if making a stopper), remove the half of the pump pulley, remove the belt, remove the second half. By the way, I forgot to say again, when the alternator belt was removed, it is necessary to unscrew the tensioner bolts to the alternator. So, the belts were all removed. Now we unfasten the upper timing case cover. We take the head by 20 and start twisting the crankshaft bolt to combine the marks on the camshaft, crankshaft, distributor and in the flywheel / gearbox bell:

When the marks coincided everywhere, then asking an assistant, stopping the crankshaft, with a head and a ratchet for 20, unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolts. Next, unscrew the fasteners of the lower timing belt casing: 2 bolts for an internal hexagon, a bolt for 13, and a washer for 10 (the washer is screwed onto a hairpin in the area of ​​the pump housing). Remove the bottom casing. Now you can drain the oil by unscrewing the drain plug by 19 (like so) from the oil pan. After draining the oil, set it aside, it will not be useful to us anymore. I also removed the coolant tank in order to wash it (i.e. I did not see that I had coolant or rusty water floating in it). I've washed it.

Now, as you can see, the coolant is red (pink), which is very pleasing.

Now you can unscrew, the plastic tee behind the block head. Two bolts for 13) Antifreeze may pour out (at least it was so for me, because I did not unscrew or drain the coolant from the block). The timing belt can now be removed. Having set everything according to the marks, unscrew the tensioner bolt, and unscrew the tensioner itself. We remove the belt, having previously marked the direction of its rotation (clockwise), then to put everything back). We unscrew the tensioner roller, remove the roller and put it aside:

We begin to unscrew the valve cover bolts. Remove the cover, take out the slinger

We begin to unscrew the camshaft caps. First, unscrew the covers 5,1,3 crosswise, then crosswise 2 and 4, half a turn per pass, until they can be unscrewed by hand. Next, unscrew the head from the block. There is an asterisk T55)

These are the wetsuits on top in the photo. They are still from the factory. I don’t complain about work, so it was decided to leave. Taking off the head, this is what we see

All soot, the head has not been removed since 1996)) So the condition is excellent. Here is a photo of the head from the side of the valves. All in soot

Next, I started trying to crawl up to the pallet bolts. I want to assure you right away There is no need to unscrew any stretchers. This is ADP... The only thing is to loosen the cushion bolts, jack up the engine through two blocks into the air conditioner bracket and raise the engine. Then we unscrew this "horseshoe"

This horseshoe is a support for the engine and the box at the same time. Hold it with three bolts for an internal hexagon 16 by 65, one bolt with a nut 45 and two bolts 95) Remove the horseshoe, and begin to unscrew the pallet bolts around the perimeter. There are 18 of them, the rear ones are the most difficult to unscrew, because the hand is between the stretcher and the pallet, God forbid, the jack will fly off, you will be left without hands, therefore Safety comes first. More accurate muzhzhiks)... Having unscrewed the pallet, remove it. The first time it will not work, just knock with a hammer with a hammer and it will come off. We see a reflector.

Take it off more carefully, it can be easily broken. This is what the pallet looked like.

Now, we take the head at 14 and start unscrewing the piston connecting rod caps. Pull out carefully, pushing out from below, and without damaging the crankshaft journals. Here they are the piston after 15 years of work.

We remove the rings, trying not to damage the edges of the pistons, I broke a couple)) Gyy)))

Then we begin to wash the piston, or rather to coat it with chemistry, so to speak. I used an Amway oven cleaner

We start working with the head.We take a piece of a plastic bottle, cut out about a piece of 20 * 20 cm, roll it up with a tube and put it in the well, after removing the hydraulic lifters (carefully, without applying any effort) and fold them in order as they were removed, with the valves upwards so that the oil does not leak out. We begin to dry out the valve. This process is described everywhere on the Internet, there is nothing complicated) We take out the valve:

After washing the head, wipe it dry by wiping it before this solvent. Because new valves, you need to grind them. We take the lapping paste. I took a two-component one, gave something about 50 rubles. We lubricate the valve stem with clean engine oil, insert it into the guide, on the other hand, put a hose of a suitable size on the valve stem, apply a little lapping paste on the valve chamfer and begin to grind the valve in circular movements, changing the position of the valve constantly.

And so with each valve, I clearly say, my hands ached for a week after lapping. Then we insert the valves into their places, turning the head over with the working part (the part that is directed into the cylinders), twist the candles into the candle holes so that the kerosene does not leak out, and fill it with kerosene, checking for leaks.

We begin to assemble the head. We insert the valve with the oiled stem, put on the protective cap on the valve, take the valve stem soaked in engine oil (just poured all the caps into a can of oil before assembling), and put it on the stem. We take the MSC collet puller and push the cap all the way (remembering to put a plastic mandrel in the well, which we made from an empty plastic bottle so as not to scratch the walls of the well), then the springs in the same order as they were removed, the spring plate, and we begin to dry out))) It is better to do this together, you can actually catch the hemorrhoids. We put hydraulic lifters in the same places from where they were filmed.

This is me) Thick, I rub the valve.

The oil seal on the camshaft must be replaced. We put the camshaft:

And we fasten with the right moment, first crosswise the covers 2 and 4, then 1,3 and 5 having lubricated the first cover with a sealant, but without fanaticism and in the place where the joint goes, closer to the camshaft gear. Next, I put the head on small wooden dies so that the valves under the hydraulic lifters would close. It is generally not recommended to install the head immediately, or rather to start the engine. Piston, clean.

We begin to put rings on the piston))) We dress carefully so as not to break the rings, we will again need a part of a plastic bottle, a strip 5 cm long and 1.5 cm wide.Use it as guides, we will lower the rings along them. Oh yes, before the rings are seated, lubricate the grooves for the rings and the rings themselves with plenty of engine oil) Change the connecting rod bearings, also abundantly lubricating the seats and the inserts themselves with oil. Place the rings as shown.

Checked position of the rings, a good car mechanic suggested Lohan

We take a piston mandrel (I took a universal one), carefully place the piston, push it into the cylinder, which is abundantly greased with oil, tap the cylinder with a hammer handle, drive the piston into the cylinder. Watch the rings, they can get out of the mandrel) Having put all the pistons in place, we begin to tighten the connecting rod caps with the right moment. Putting everything together in reverse order, cleaning out the remnants of the old gaskets, wiping the joint areas with a solvent, and putting new gaskets. I also replaced the oil seals on the intermediate shaft, the crankshaft (there is an oil seal and a paper gasket, I stopped the crankshaft by pushing part of the crankshaft through the plates into the cylinder block with two plates). The crankshaft bolt must be replaced. We put all the belts in place, placing them in the right direction. We put the intake manifold, exhaust.

We change the gaskets where necessary, tighten everything at the right moment. We put the head like this:

1. Align the piston at approximately the same level

2. We put the cylinder head, put new bolts and tighten it with the right moment, after cleaning the mating surfaces and ALWAYS remove residual oil and coolant from the bolt holes.
Tightening torques: 1. 30 Nm 2. 60 Nm 3. Turn 90 degrees 4. Turn 90 degrees in a specific order. It is in any repair manual.

3. We put a mark on the camshaft

4. We catch up with the mark on the crankshaft

By the way, whoever loves very much that all the marks are in place, then it will be necessary to combine the mark on the intermediate shaft (dot) and the crankshaft pulley and at the same time so that the slider looks at the risk on the distributor body. Well, that's basically all. At the first start, we unscrew the candles, remove the connector from the Hall sensor, take out the fuse No. 28 (responsible for the gas pump), fill in liquids and oil according to the level. Lubricate with a starter for a couple of approaches for 40-50 seconds. Then we put the candles on, connect the Hall Sensor, put the fuse in place and start the car. After the repair, I decided to polish my charm.

It is not always easy to come to the conclusion about the advisability of a complete overhaul of the engine, since it is necessary to be based on a number of objective indicators.

High mileage is not a sufficient indicator of the need for overhaul, on the other hand, low mileage does not exclude the need for overhaul. The most important metric appears to be the timeliness of routine engine maintenance. With a timely oil and filter change, as well as with all other necessary maintenance work, the engine will serve reliably for many thousands of kilometers. On the contrary, inadequate or untimely maintenance can lead to a sharp reduction in engine life.

Increased oil consumption indicates worn piston rings, valve guides and valve stem seals. Make sure that leaks do not cause increased oil consumption, and only then conclude that the piston rings and valve guides are unsuitable. To determine the probable cause of the malfunction, measure the compression in the engine cylinders.

To determine the amount of work to be done, check the compression in the engine cylinders. Also carry out a test with a vacuum gauge and determine the nature of the indications of this device.

Check the oil pressure with a pressure gauge screwed into the place of the oil pressure sensor and compare the check result with the standard value. If the oil pressure is low, wear on the main bearings, connecting rod bearings or oil pump parts may be the cause.

Loss of power, “dips” in engine operation, detonation or metal knocks, increased noise from the gas distribution mechanism, increased fuel consumption indicate the need for overhaul, especially if all these signs of abnormal operation appear at the same time. If making all adjustments does not lead to improvement, then the only remedy for the abnormal engine operation is a major overhaul. Overhaul consists of restoring engine parts to the condition specified in the technical data for a new engine.

During overhaul, pistons and piston rings are replaced, cylinders are bored or honed. After cylinder repair, which is carried out in a specialized workshop, the installation of repair pistons will be required. The connecting rod and main bearings of the crankshaft, as well as the covers of the bearing journals of the camshaft, must also be replaced; if necessary, the crankshaft journals should be ground until normal clearances with the connecting rod and main bearings are restored. As a rule, valves are also subject to repair, since their condition at the time of repair, as a rule, is not entirely satisfactory. During an engine overhaul, such units as a starter, generator and ignition distributor are also repaired. As a result, the repaired engine must have the qualities of a new unit and withstand significant mileage without failures. Warning

During a major overhaul, important parts of the cooling system such as hoses, drive belts, thermostat and coolant pump should be replaced. The radiator must be inspected for tightness and cleanliness of the internal channels. If you bought a repair engine, or an incomplete cylinder block, then some suppliers do not give a guarantee for the operation of these units without a high-quality flushing of the radiator. When overhauling the engine, it is also recommended to replace the oil pump.

Before starting an engine overhaul, review the appropriate procedures to get an impression of the scope and requirements of the work ahead. Subject to all the rules and regulations, with all the necessary tools and devices, overhaul is not difficult to perform, but it will take a significant investment of time. Roughly it will take at least two weeks, especially if you have to go to a specialized workshop to repair and restore parts. Check the availability of spare parts and arrange for the necessary special tools and equipment to be purchased in advance.

Almost all work can be done with a standard set of tools, although accurate measuring instruments will be needed to check and determine the suitability of certain parts. Often, the condition of parts is checked in specialized workshops, which also receive recommendations for replacing or restoring certain parts.
Warning

You should contact car service workshops only after completely disassembling the engine and checking the condition of all parts, especially the cylinder block, in order to decide which maintenance and repair operations will be performed in the workshops.

Since the condition of the cylinder block is a determining factor in making a decision on its further repair or on the purchase of a new (or repair) cylinder block, it is necessary to buy spare parts or perform machining operations on related parts only after thoroughly checking its technical condition. Make it a rule that the true cost of a repair is time, so you don't have to pay to install worn or remanufactured parts.

In conclusion, we note that the assembly of any units should be carried out with great care in a clean room in order to avoid further failures of the repaired engine and ensure its reliable operation.

Without exception, all Audi cars bribe their owner with good dynamics and reliability of units and assemblies. The car of this brand is a combination of the most advanced technical innovations and German solidity. In addition to new models, now used ones are quite in demand. Most of them are already several decades old. In this regard, Audi owners are faced with engine repairs. The materials in this section will help you do your own engine repair on the Audi a6.

How to repair an Audi 80 engine? These sedans have not been produced for over 15 years. Therefore, the engine requires periodic inspections, replacement of some parts and operating fluids.

In the same section, all the training materials necessary for making repairs to the Audi A6 engine with your own hands. This model is also not new. For her, they offer a fairly wide selection of power units designed for driving with completely different "driver" requests. For example, an economical turbodiesel or a 300 hp gasoline V8. With. In general, you can change the pump or filter yourself, but it is better to entrust the master to carry out more complex repair work. There is no need to risk expensive parts, and some types of work require special skills and equipment.

Everyone knows the reliability of a car brand like Audi, regardless of the model. But no matter how reliable the car is, during operation you have to change certain parts either at the service or on your own. There are many such car owners who repairing Audi A4 with their own hands... Someone may just like to do something on their own, but for someone the services of the service seem too expensive. Basically, attention has to be paid to the car's suspension, the fuel system, and other little things. Some even after an accident restore cars on their own.

The main thing to remember when repairing an Audi A4 with your own hands is that all actions are performed correctly, and then you do not have to contact the service and pay money. Below we will consider some of the car malfunctions, in particular, the repair of the ABS unit and the headlight auto-corrector sensor.

The ABS unit may not work for various reasons. It can fail completely and it will need to be replaced, someone buys a car with a no longer working unit and has to be repaired. For those who have no experience in working with trace elements, it is better not to go into the block, because you can make it even worse. If the ABS indication on the panel is off, we start looking for the problem. You need to short-circuit two wires - yellow / red and brown and unsolder them. After that, the light starts to burn. But even after that, it’s impossible to go in like a lump. The unit itself needs to be repaired.

To do this, you need to remove the front left wheel and wheel arch liner. Next, the washer reservoir and hydraulic fluid are removed. Two connectors are removed - from the block itself and from below. It is necessary with the help of T-20 to unscrew 6 bolts and remove the ABS block. As a result, we have the electronic part of the unit in our hands. Next, you need to open it with a construction knife. Inside, you need to find two thin silver wires. Usually there is poor or no contact in this place. Possible oxidation must be removed from the contact points of these wires. To restore contact, a thin copper wire is taken and soldered to the pad from the connector side. Silver wires are tinned.

Next, you need to move the copper wire to the silver one and solder them together. The remainder is bite off in pieces. Then the block must be sealed back, you can use hot melt glue. After that, it is installed in the reverse order and checked by a vag-lump. If it is clear with the ABS unit, then sometimes the headlight auto-corrector sensors on the Audi A4 can cause trouble. In most cases, these sensors fail due to condensation.

Although Hella is one of the best, if not the best manufacturer of optics, it still doesn't take very good care of moisture protection. This means that the board is not varnished. Although all the joints are dense, moisture, nevertheless, is formed there. There is only a small hole in the housing to equalize pressure with temperature changes. Perhaps moisture gradually penetrates through this hole. As a result, after opening the case, moisture is observed inside.

How to organize the correct replacement of the power plant in the Audi A4: tips for choosing a donor and performing manipulations

Not everyone is able to maintain leadership in today's market conditions: engineers have to constantly improve units and lighten the structure as a whole. Frequent experimentation calls into question the main feature of the machine - reliability. The most often vulnerable organ is the power plant.

The first two generations of the legendary "four" were equipped with units, the service life of which was quite high. In terms of efficiency and environmental friendliness, gasoline and diesel units are inferior to modern ones, but the level of their reliability still fit into the framework of the widespread concept of "German quality".

On generations B4 and B5 Audi A4 engine replacement was produced only for the following reasons:

• complete wear of the main engine parts;
• the desire to give the car a more sporty character.

In practice, there is a fairly large number of cases when the power plant has completely exhausted its resource, and the vehicle body is in perfect condition. Therefore, the logical way out of the situation is to replace the unit with a new one.

The explanation for the second reason is as follows: versions with powerful engines, as a rule, V-shaped sixes with a volume of 2.4 - 3.0 liters, were produced in limited quantities.In this regard, these copies do not often "shine" in the secondary market, and those who want to join the German power are only growing.

With the generation of new engines with TSI, TFSI, FSI technologies, VW began to equip the B7 generation and the modern B8 generation. The owners note the capriciousness of the power plants and the presence in their design of a large number of minor flaws. However, only a small part decides to stabilize the situation by installing a new motor.

It's not worth worrying about the location of the mounts: engineers have all the time pursued the goal of standardizing the main landing dimensions. The most "hot" topic here is the possibility of combining a certain pair of "gearbox - engine". No less acute is the question of accommodating the control system for another motor.

Analyzing the above, it should be noted that replace the engine in any Audi A4 is possible without problems only if the following conditions are met:

• unit and vehicle - of the same generation;
• the power plant is suitable for the available type of box;
• The ECM is absolutely identical to the standard one.

The last point is a subtle feature of the selection process. Replacing the unit with an identical one, as a rule, does not raise any questions with the electronics.

Problems begin to appear when the donor is either a newer generation car, or the same modification, but with a more powerful engine. In the second case, it is only necessary to additionally replace the ECU. The first scenario may not take place at all, since at least the ECU and the dashboard will not be linked.

Owners of B4 and B5 should be extremely careful when choosing: the seats in the manual transmission and automatic transmission are different. The design of the reciprocal organ in the motor, therefore, will also differ. However, experienced auto mechanics claim that rework is possible in some cases.

A motor designed to work with a manual transmission can be adapted for an automatic transmission by grooving the end of the crankshaft. The machining allowance is about 1.5 - 2 mm. The operation is simple and is within the power of absolutely every turner. In the opposite situation, it is necessary to additionally install the bearing.

According to the owners, it can be argued that the operation does not have a high level of complexity. The list of transitions is quite simple and includes a standard set of manipulations:

• disconnect all electrical and electronics;
• dismantle the intake tract;
• remove the exhaust manifold.

A notable feature here is the process of removing the engine from the engine compartment: the power plant is brought out in the direction of movement of the car. Thus, for replacing the engine on any representative of the Audi A4 family it is necessary to first dismantle the front part, which includes the bumper, headlights and radiator frame.

Replacing the engine on the "four" from Audi is a very real operation that does not have a high level of complexity. The most important role is played by the choice of the donor. It is on the degree of correspondence of the power plants to each other that the problematics of the technological process depend: significant differences are eliminated with the help of metalworking equipment and a new control system.

A detailed photo report on replacing the timing belt on a car on an AUDI A4 with a 1.8T ANB engine. First of all, all the necessary components for the repair were purchased.
Timing repair kit (belt, tensioner pulley, tensioner) - Ina 530007010
Timing roller bypass - VAG 058109244
General poly V-belt - Contitech 5PK1300
Power steering belt / pump - Gates 6301MC
V-belt pulley / damper bolts 4 pcs - VAG N10303607

Now we proceed to the replacement of the timing itself.
Remove the bumper, side T25, central SW6.

To transfer the “muzzle” to the service position, I removed the air duct, the rubber bonnet seal, I unscrew the two fasteners of the air conditioner compressor pipes, the head is 10, from the bottom, on both sides of the intake pipes, a minus screwdriver, then the “TV”, the top 4 pieces. Т30, lateral 2 pcs. Т30, basic 7 pcs. T45.In the left (in the direction of the car) the main “TV” mount I screw in a couple of centimeters a long bolt from the bumper attachment so that there is a large gap between the left headlight and the wing, and I pull the right side forward as far as the air conditioner compressor tube allows and substitute a brick support and timber.

Remove the plastic engine and timing covers.

He removed the air conditioner compressor belt by unscrewing the roller, the SW6 key. With a 17 wrench he squeezed the tensioner and removed the poly V-belt, removed the tensioner, the 13 key. To unscrew the viscous coupling, he removed the pipe from the throttle, the SW8 key + a homemade key, a minus screwdriver.

We remove the pump belt for replacement. In order to lock the pulley, I inserted a knob between the triangular flange of the pump axis and the power steering pulley. SW6 key.

I set the camshaft and crankshaft marks, twisted clockwise. Twelve-sided head 19.

Holding the crankshaft with a wrench, unscrew the poly-V-belt pulley, SW6 wrench. This is not a good moment in replacing the timing, if the edges merge in the bolts (and they merge, the law of meanness), then you will have to remove the air conditioner radiator, the power steering radiator, drain the coolant, disconnect the wiring and push the “TV” further to get to these bolts. This time my bolts unscrewed without any problems, since I had already removed the pulley, stepped on this rake and changed the bolts for new ones. And this time he put new ones.

Old photos, when the pulley did not unscrew.

Remove the lower plastic timing protection, tube 10, SW5, SW6. We put marks on the old belt and the direction of movement.

As Elsa says, I could not squeeze the tensioner with a hexagon and insert the stopper, so I unscrewed the central bolt of the roller and removed it (the first time in my car I needed a key for 14.), then the tensioner (tube for 10, roller bypass head for 13) and the belt ... I could not check the performance of the old tensioner, since my vice does not move such a distance.

I count the number of teeth between the marks on the old belt and transfer it to the new one.

I screw on a new roller without a tensioner, first of all I put the belt on the crankshaft pulley, oil pump, roller and last of all the camshaft pulley. I check the labels several times.

We put on the tensioner, pull out the stopper.

After installing a new belt, the marks shifted to the floor of a tooth, I have not half a tooth, but I have a little.

To make sure everything is in order, I crank the crankshaft a couple of times, check the marks.

I fasten the timing protection, the V-belt pulley with new bolts. To evenly tighten the pump pulley and tighten the belt, I tightened each bolt little by little, turning the pulley.

I fasten the viscous coupling, put on the poly V-belt.

I did not change the air conditioner compressor belt, since it is more alive than all living things.

I screw on the “TV”. First, I tighten the upper bolts, setting uniform gaps between the headlights and the fenders, then the side, main ones. I fasten the fasteners of the air conditioner pipes, from below the intake pipes, put on the rubber bonnet seal, put the air duct.

I made sure that the right hatch of the headlight washer nozzle did not stick out of the bumper. Everything, THAT is over. Now, when starting a cold engine in the morning, there are no squeaks / crackles.

Original part numbers of required spare parts:
VAG 058109119C - Timing Belt
VAG 058109243E - PULLEY, TENSIONER
VAG 058109244 - Idler roller
VAG 058109479B - Timing Belt Tensioner
VAG 06B903137E - V-ribbed belt common
VAG 06B260849A - Belt, A / C Compressor
VAG 058145271 - Power steering belt / pump

How to independently replace the timing belt of the Audi A4 V6 car? Below

How to repair cup holders yourself

How to independently replace and repair the fuel pump

How to independently change the oil in the engine of a car brand Audi 100 c3? Detailed

How to replace the timing belt of the Audi A4 B5 1.8T car yourself? Below

How to change the air filter of your Audi A4 B6 car yourself? Below

How to replace and repair the pump yourself

How to independently replace the timing belt of an Audi car

How do I change the fuel filter of my Audi A6 myself? Leisurely

How to replace the air filter yourself

How to replace the gaskets yourself

How to change the steering tip yourself

How to independently replace the front

How to independently service the front suspension, and more specifically

How to replace the lower arms

Audi A4 and A4 Avant (Typ B5 / 8D) with petrol 4-cylinder engines: ADP / AHL / ARM / ANA 1.6 l (1595 cm³) 100 hp / 74 kW, ADR / APT / ARG / AEB / APU / ANB / AWT 1.8 l (1781 cm³) 125-150 hp / 92-110 kW, six-cylinder AGA / ALF / APS / ARJ / AML 2.4 l (2393 cm³) 165 hp / 121 kW, ABC 2.6 l (2598 cm³) 150 HP / 110 kW, AGB / AZB 2.7 l (2671 cm³) 265 HP / 195 kW, AAH / ACK / ALG / APR / AQD 2.8 l (2771 cm³) 174-193 hp / 128-142 kW and turbo diesel 1Z / AHU / AHH / AFN / AVG / AJM / ATJ 1.9 l (1896 cm³) 90-110-115 hp / 66-81-85 kW, AFB / AKN 2.5 l (2460 cm³) 150 hp / 110 kW; Operation manual, maintenance and repair, wiring diagrams, technical characteristics, design features, device, diagnostics. Illustrated practical edition of the middle class passenger car Audi A4 (B5) with all-metal monocoque bodies four-door sedan (11.1994-10.2000) and five-door station wagon "Avant" (01.1996-09.2001) front- and all-wheel drive (Quattro) models of the fifth generation of release from November 1994 to September 2001 year

Audi A4 / S4 Avant B5 video oil change in the 01E gearbox and differential, spark plugs V6 2.7 l (Audi A4 / C4 B5 94-01)

The heat number is found in the spark plug designation.
Deciphering the designation of the candle:
Example of Bosch Spark Plugs
F 7 L T С R
1 2 3 4 5 6
1) W - thread M 14 x 1.25 with flat seal. SW 21 (SW - turnkey size);
F - thread M 14 x 1.25 with flat seal, SW 16;
M - thread M 18 x 1.5 with flat seal, SW 25;
H - thread M 14 x 1.25 with tapered seal, SW 16;
D - thread M 18 x 1.5 with tapered seal, SW 21.
2) Heat number. The thermal scale value is indicated from 06 (cold) to 13 (warm). In this case, the number 7 corresponds to a thermal value of 175 (former designation), 6 - 200.5-225, etc.
3) A - thread length 12.7 mm, normal trajectory of the spark discharge;
B - thread length 12.7 mm, elongated spark discharge trajectory;
C - thread length 19 mm, normal trajectory of the spark discharge;
D - thread length 19 mm, elongated spark discharge trajectory;
L - thread length 19 mm, far elongated spark discharge trajectory.
4) Design of electrodes: T - 3 earth electrodes.
5) Material of the center electrode: at
no designation - Cr-Ni - alloy;
C - Ni-Cu - alloy;
S - silver;
P is platinum;
O - a standard candle with a reinforced center electrode.
6) Execution: R - means the presence of a protective resistor (to reduce the burning of the electrodes).

Removal and installation of spark plugs
Spark plugs are replaced every 60,000 km as part of maintenance.
Note: For a single-block vertical 4-cylinder engine (RS4) bearing the letter designation ASJ / AZR, the spark plugs are replaced every 30,000 km. Replacement of spark plugs for this engine is not described here.
Attention: Replace spark plugs only when the engine is cold or thawed to the touch. If the spark plugs are removed while the engine is hot, the thread for the spark plug in the light alloy cylinder head may be stripped.

Books and manuals Audi A4 (B7) free

Repair and maintenance manual for Audi A4 (B7)

- repair of Audi A4 (B7) in photos
- the components and assemblies of the car are described in detail
- do-it-yourself troubleshooting of typical Audi A4 (B7) malfunctions
- colored wiring diagrams

Audi A4 (B7) Owner's Manual and Service Manual

- operation manual
- service manual Audi A4 (B7)
- trouble-shooting
- interactive wiring diagram

- pinout of electrical connectors Audi A4 (B7)
- features of electrical equipment
- elimination of malfunctions of electrical equipment
- detailed electrical diagram

Catalog of parts and assembly units Audi A4 (B7)

- table of interchangeability of parts of cars Audi A4 (B7)
- intended for service station workers and car owners
- parts catalog

Repair manual for Audi A4 (B7) engine

- complete technical specifications of the Audi A4 (B7) engine
- design features and engine repair
- do-it-yourself troubleshooting of the Audi A4 (B7) engine
- a detailed description of the processes of disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly of the engine with photographs

Repair manual gearbox gearbox Audi A4 (B7)

- full technical characteristics of the checkpoint
- design and repair features of the checkpoint
- elimination of gearbox and transmission faults of the Audi A4 (B7)
- a detailed description of the processes of disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly of the Audi A4 (B7) gearbox with photographs

Audi A4 Injector Error Codes (B7)

- description and diagram of the injector
- decoding of engine fault codes
- elimination of injector malfunctions
- pinout of injection and wiring

- tuning Audi A4 (B7) do it yourself
- engine tuning, body tuning, suspension tuning
- multimedia tuning guide