In detail: do-it-yourself automatic gate repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
You will not surprise anyone with the presence of automatic gates on garages or at the entrance to private territory. The undeniable convenience of design and use make this exterior element not just a whim, but part of comfort, safety and style. However, nothing eternal has yet been invented, so even such an expensive product requires periodic maintenance and repair. In the article we will talk about the main types of gates, about the most “weak” places and how you can fix them.
During the operation of the gate of any type, wear of components and mechanisms occurs. There may also be breakdowns that are not directly related to the opening or closing of the gate.
excessive increase in input voltage in the network;
mechanical damage to the structure;
deformation due to bad weather conditions;
other unforeseen breakdowns.
Restoration of working capacity requires primary diagnostics. It can be done independently with a minimum set of tools. Most often it is enough to have such a set:
multimeter;
screwdriver set;
set of wrenches;
sometimes you need a level or tape measure.
Almost any owner will be able to notice a breakdown, so it is hardly worth calling a team of repairmen and paying for their services before an independent inspection was carried out.
Each type of gate has its own problem areas. Therefore, it is necessary to control such nodes according to the established option.
The least vulnerable type of construction is a swing garage door. They often do not have electric drives, so they can be installed in any garage, even the most remote from the power line.
Their design consists, as a rule, of two wings, less often of one. Such halves are hung on a metal frame with hinges. There are designs with a built-in door in one of the parts of the door leaf. Although this option slightly weakens the gate, it is an additional convenience for the owner of the premises.
The main problem that arises during operation may be the reliability of the hinges. As a result, the gate is in need of repair.
Video (click to play).
displacement of the axes of the loops (occurs due to poor-quality welding or too much web mass);
sheet deformation (may occur due to residual stresses in the metal or mechanical damage);
breakage of the hinge rod (poor-quality or insufficiently strong material of the hinges or a sharp dynamic load, which happens during severe frosts);
corrosion processes (occur due to lack of lubrication or regular exposure to moisture);
weakening (caused by rod wear or poor welding quality).
In each of these cases, the problem can be solved independently.
When the axles are displaced, it is necessary to cut the canopies and weld on new ones or the same ones after accurate measurements and alignments along the axis. An additional welded corner will help to avoid deformation. It will make the canvas slightly heavier, so it is required to select material no larger than 40x40 mm in size.
If the rods break down, they need to be replaced, most likely with more powerful ones that can withstand significant loads. So that the rod does not “stick” in the hole to the walls, it is necessary to regularly lubricate. It is also necessary to select loops with gaps of 0.2-0.3 mm. This will ensure good rotation without "jamming" even with minor distortions. Too large gaps can cause the hinges to loosen.
Swinging garage doors should not be left open for a long time. At this time, the loops are subjected to force loads, and their deformation occurs.
The design of such gates is most popular among owners of modern garages due to its versatility, maintainability, relative reliability and fairly high performance. They require an electrical connection to install.
Due to the large number of working units and mechanisms, this design has vulnerabilities. However, most breakdowns can be fixed on your own without resorting to third-party help.
Structural issues:
jamming or tight movement (the reason may lie in the deformation of the guides or some parts of the web, sometimes the cause is too much spring tension);
extraneous noise during closing / opening (occurs when debris or foreign objects get between the moving parts; a creak or other sound may occur after the rollers or grooves are worn out, as well as when there is a lack of lubrication in the bearings);
breakage of cables or springs (occurs when the springs are excessively worn, stretched along the axis; when the cable breaks, it is most likely that forces exceeding the calculation were applied, it often happens with hand-operated mechanisms);
problems with the shaft on the drive drum (this is a non-repairable unit that only requires replacement with a new part);
mechanical deformation of the guides (occurs during intensive use for a long time);
damage to the web (the bottleneck in the design of the web can be called connecting nodes, which can become dirty over time and fail without proper cleaning, damage to the web itself from bumps or scratches also occurs).
The issue with jamming can be solved by loosening the tension spring. Also, with visible deformations, you can carry out a slight straightening of the guides with a mallet. With a clear need for this, the rollers or loops are changed. To get rid of creaking or other noise, Litol lubrication of all moving parts is used. You can also tap the guides and return them to a rectilinear shape.
To avoid breaking the cable, do not forcefully turn the gear knob. If a break occurs, then you can replace it yourself. Broken or severely deformed guides need to be replaced. They can be dismantled independently using a grinder, screwdriver or screwdriver.
Deformed door sections can be straightened. If it is not possible to return them to their original form, then individual parts are dismantled. The problem may arise with the installation of new parts. It has to do with the choice of color. If there is no need to change the entire area, but you need to cover up scratches, then there are special colorants to restore the coating. They will cost less than a complete replacement.
In addition to mechanical failures, there may be problems with the electrical part. The only solution in these situations is to replace the individual node. Consider breakdown options:
the movement of the web is jerky or stops (an incorrectly configured control board leads to this result; it must either be reconfigured or replaced, sometimes it is enough to lubricate the problem nodes that interfere with smooth movement);
closing / opening is not complete (non-working limit switches responsible for turning on / off the power must be reconfigured or replaced);
the gate does not close (it is necessary to check the operation of the photocells responsible for blocking the movement of sections in the event of obstacles; if necessary, they are replaced);
when pressing the remote does not work, then the problem is in the receiving antenna, which can be moved closer, and there may also be a problem in the remote that needs to be replaced or reprogrammed.
Repair of garage shutters can also be carried out independently. The most common problems that arise with this design are replacing the mechanical spring or installing a new motor on an electric drive.
Other issues arising from the failure of such gates are extremely rare and are resolved purely individually in each case.
Automation changes only to the same model that would have been installed originally. There is no need to make any "adjustments" to the design. You can order a burnt board or motor at a service center or from official suppliers. In free sale it is hardly possible to find suitable spare parts.
You can repair any garage door yourself. To do this, you need to properly diagnose and identify idle nodes. Sometimes there are multiple failures. In this case, you need to carefully consider the obvious symptoms, and eliminate all problems in turn.
Automation installed on the gate in our time is quite reliable in operation. However, the more complex and expensive the equipment, the more difficult the breakdowns that occur in it. The car owner, who installed automatic garage doors on his own, is also going to do the repairs with his own hands. Thoughts that the automation will be repaired are disturbing, but you should not despair.
Of course, the time will come and something will have to be regulated, or the board will stop working from a power surge in the network. The gate drive has stopped working, or the device does not want to work during installation, the main thing is not to despair, but to arm yourself with information.
Let's try to understand the main problems that arise in the operation of automation at the gate. First of all, get a tester - a multimeter. This device is simply necessary in our time in the home workshop. A tester is needed for high-quality diagnostics of electrical circuits when repairing gates; without it, it will be very difficult for you to work.
Many people are shy in front of this measuring device, but it works simply. As always, carefully read the instructions, and everything will fall into place.
Most often, problems arise due to the lack of input voltage. Set the tester to ACV 600V and measure the voltage supplied to the motor. In its absence, you will have to check the entire chain, consisting of a cable, differential protection, machines, and everything else. Automation in this case is not to blame, we are looking for and fixing the problem of power failure at the input of the drive.
Low voltage at the input, less than 200V, will tell an experienced master that the gate automation will work intermittently. Such a voltage drop can appear in the evenings, and in the countryside it happens on Fridays, when people come home or to their dachas en masse.
Pay attention to this option! Measure and note the voltage while the gate is running. It is usually at this point lower by 5-10V. Stable voltage is very important for operation, because a large number of breakdowns are associated with voltage surges or drops.
With a voltage drop in the supply network, control boards, transformers and motors often fail. At the same time, service centers may refuse you warranty repairs if there are signs of combustion from low or high voltage.
Know that purchasing a voltage regulator will cost less than replacing a board. The power of your stabilizer must exceed twice the consumption of the electric gate drive, because when the engine is started, there is a jump in current consumption.
If there is voltage at the input and the control board is not working, check:
Circuit breakers. Serviceability can be checked visually, but it is better to check with a tester;
When indicators or diodes do not light on the board, and the fuses are intact, then the board is out of order;
A sign of a short circuit is the burning of a new fuse at the moment the drive is connected to the mains.
For a specific short circuit detection, everything is turned off: the engine, lamp, limit switches and photocells. Then turn on the drive again. If after that the fuse burns out, then you have found a short circuit and you will have to repair or replace the control board. If the fuse is intact, then the cause is hidden in those devices that are disabled.
By connecting the fuses in turn, you can find out in which section of the short circuit. It also happens that a completely new cable is defective, and may have a short circuit between the cores. You can check the engine for performance, again with the help of a tester.
The tester is set to "200 Ohm" and the resistance between the windings is measured. If the engine is 220 V, then check the resistance between 1-2, 2-3, 1-3 engine contacts. For a serviceable engine, two measurements will be the same, while the third value will be twice as large. I want to please — engines burn out extremely rarely.
When the drive motor makes a sound, but does not rotate, it can be assumed that the capacitor is faulty or the wire is broken at the capacitor contact, which is more common than a breakdown.
Transformers burn more often, since voltage drops in the network are not uncommon in our country. Systems running 24 V motors are especially susceptible to this. To check the voltage, the windings ring, and if the result is negative, they change the transformer to a similar one.
Repair of automatic garage doors
With diodes glowing on the board, a burned-out receiver may be the cause of a violation of the working condition. You will have to replace the receiver or install an external receiver. There are options when you can limit yourself to reprogramming.
In addition, check all connection pins, jumpers, board adjustment and other settings. Often the reason for the failure is poor contact in the socket, or a wire that has fallen out of the socket altogether.
Key in unlock cover
Please note that there are drives where limit switches are installed that block the movement of the mechanism when the unlock cover is not locked. The design should be carefully examined.
A common problem is that the gate moves only in one direction, most often the panel only opens. It happens that the problem is hidden in inactive photocells. They can become covered with frost, snow, mud, fail, or their orientation towards each other can go astray.
It is easy to check the accuracy of the setting. The photocells will click softly when there is an obstacle between them. If no clicks are heard, check if one of the reasons listed above is present. If you want to turn off the photocells completely, you can install the appropriate jumper on the control unit, which will block their operation.
Another cause of failure in normal operation may be a blown motor control relay or incorrect settings of additional sensors.
Sliding gates have problems with limit switches due to their failure, leading to jamming of the leaf. This happens when a mechanical limit switch freezes or falls off, or due to incorrectly adjusted switches. Altitude, distance or angle of attack may not be set correctly.
The way out is simple - unscrew the gear rack, unlock the drive and move the target to the desired position.
Mechanical failures are quite rare. This occurs in drives with plastic gears. In this case, you will have to replace the worn part, and preferably with a metal one.
Pocket control panels for automation
It does not matter if you have lost your pocket PU, in this case it is easy to fix the matter. Buy a new one and do everything you did during the initial setup. You can also copy the program from your normally operating PU.
As a result, we can conclude that each drive is repaired, but sometimes there are difficulties with spare parts. Almost any spare parts can be made to order, and electronics come back to life by replacing failed boards. The only obstacle is the cost of repairs, sometimes it is cheaper to install a new device. We wish you to work without problems!