Bbh 920 einhell do-it-yourself repair

Details: bbh 920 einhell do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

During repair and construction, a perforator is indispensable. This is the tool that makes life easier for us most of all, it is on it that the heaviest loads fall. All tool companies also make punchers - the offer is off the charts. It is very easy to make a mistake with the choice of a reliable device suitable for specific conditions, but such a miracle of technology is not cheap.

Einhell BBH 920
Makita HR2410
BOSCH GBH 2–24 DSR
BOSCH PBH 2000 RE

Age builders say that earlier holes in concrete, brick and stone were made using a jumper. Apparently also a German invention (German: Schlagbohrer; schlagen - to beat, and vohrer - drill). This is such an attachment made of a durable metal pipe with notches, on which you need to hit with a hammer with all your strength and gradually turn it so that it does not jam. Next, a planed wooden cork is used, a nail is hammered into it or a screw is screwed in.

Simultaneously with the fall of the Iron Curtain, the bolt was replaced first by foreign-made percussion drills, then by the first hammer drills. The post-Soviet space again experienced a technological revolution. By the way, previously unknown fastening systems, dowels "quick installation", dowel-wedge TDN, and expansion anchors also arrived in time. Finishers got the opportunity to quickly and reliably fasten the cladding to the supporting structures, make through holes for the passage and fixing of engineering communications. The era of renovations has begun.

Einhell BBH 920
No matter how hard we tried, the Einhell BBH 920 rotary hammer practically repeated the fate of the first-born, only it had been working in difficult conditions for about a season, after which it stopped beating and was transferred to the category of mixers, since the repair was half the cost of the new rotary hammer.

Video (click to play).

Hammer drill in a man's lifeEinhell BBH 920

Under the mixer, his anchor burned out safely. They say it is wound with aluminum, I can’t confirm - I didn’t understand it. Impressions were mixed. A horizontally mounted engine is already something, there are clearly more amenities than with a vertical one. There is already a soft start and anti-jamming, chiseling, hammer drilling and hammerless drilling. The gearbox has an aluminum casing, the body itself is durable, made of fairly elastic plastic. I don’t know what is the reason, but even using the punch for its intended purpose, quite often I had to change the brushes. Cord insulation is brittle, weak plug. The ergonomics of the product is quite tolerable, one might say, traditional. The button and switches have worked flawlessly for the entire service life. It feels like the frequency and impact force (2.5 J) does not correspond to the declared ones, the tool drills slowly and heats up quickly. Apparently, the developers did not manage to realize the impressive engine power (920 W) in performance. 3.2 kg of weight also does its dirty work, hands get pretty tired by the end of the day.

A puncher in a man's life

Note that in addition to the three-mode apparatus, there is a good suitcase, equipped with decent drills, an additional handle, a pike and a chisel.

A puncher in a man's life

We can say that the model could successfully cope with its tasks, being in the arsenal of a home master. But at the moment, this hammer drill will not withstand competition even with household samples of European brands, neither in terms of quality, nor in terms of real tactical and technical indicators. Its price has recently grown significantly and is approaching $ 90.

Makita HR2410
Next was the Makita HR2410 - a classic, if not legendary, representative of light rotary hammers.You can really enjoy working with such a thing. Not only does the device weigh only 2.3 kg (compared to 3.2 kg from Einhell), it is also perfectly balanced, has a neat “licked” body.

Hammer drill in a man's lifeMakita HR2410

The handle is comfortable both with a “pistol” grip and with an emphasis along the drilling axis, which has a positive effect when working overhead. The mode switch is located unusually - from below (the sides are smooth - one less hook).

A puncher in a man's life

Of particular note is the simply huge electronic switch, its key has a large stroke, which makes it possible to very smoothly change the speed. The significance of this chip can be felt during drilling in metal or when the drill exits the workpiece. The model is rightfully considered professional, there is a safety clutch, electronic speed control, reverse. I personally lack the chiselling mode, it is very convenient to clean the masonry with a perf, knock down small influxes of concrete in the corners. Sometimes I use this option when I need to dismantle a profile, let's say it was erroneously mounted (I push the dowel through the metal with a drill, and the UD or UV is released). Impact force (2 J) and engine power (680 W) are enough for the basic needs of a finisher.

A puncher in a man's life

Many of my colleagues will not fail to notice that this model is the last century. That's how it is, but the old HR2410 has been working properly for ten years, and it seems to have cost a little more than $200. Statisticians say that at one time it was the best-selling hammer drill in the world - it seems not by chance. I'm probably old fashioned, but if this Makita was being made now, I would honestly recommend it to all my friends. Of the new, relatively inexpensive models, I would choose between HR2610 and HR2470. I could not ignore the compact, ultra-light HR1830, but this, of course, is not for everyone.

Everyone who has ever had to work with a hammer drill knows how difficult the conditions for its operation are. That is why do-it-yourself puncher repair is such a popular request on the Internet. And today we will tell you absolutely everything related to the repair of this tool.

Undoubtedly, the owners of such expensive equipment want their devices to be of high quality, to do their job 100%. First of all, the correct use of the tool will save you from serious damage, which we will talk about a little later. And, of course, timely repair of the device. At the same time, any small failure should already be a cause for concern and preparation for repair.

So, such "beacons" can be:

Unstable operation of the perforator in operating mode;
The appearance of strange sounds when the punch is turned on;
The smell of burning;
The perforator does not hammer, although there are no apparent reasons for this.

As soon as something like this happened to your equipment, then it's time for repairs. Like any similar work, it requires attentiveness, understanding the cause of the breakdown and knowing how to deal with it. And your very first step in the repair is disassembling the tool into its components. For many, even this stage causes difficulties, and therefore it is necessary to know everything to the nuances - how, what and why!

Just imagine that your tool suddenly stopped working or you urgently needed to replace some defective part. The easiest way is to take the hammer drill to a service center for repair, but this takes time, which means it will stop your work for some period. But if you know how the device is disassembled, it will be much easier for you to carry out the rest of the work. In addition, this will lead to significant cost savings, because it will not be necessary to spend money on paying for the services of repair centers.

Instructions for disassembling the tool:

We start work, starting with the upper node: first, the rubber tip is removed, after that - the washer, spring, the ball completes the work.
After you have removed the ball, unscrew the screws that hold the body, remove the cover on the handle, if any, and lastly disconnect the stator wires.
Take out the brush holder.
The next stage is the separation of the gearbox and housing until a gap is formed. It is through it that we will remove the switch.
After that, the body of the puncher is placed vertically, fixed with a vice, and all its parts are carefully removed from the device.

No matter what kind of breakdown awaits you, clean the case - sometimes it is dirt and dust that prevent the device from working normally.

To repair a device such as a puncher, you should be as prepared as possible, which will reduce financial and labor costs to a minimum. Not bad if you are more or less familiar with the design of the puncher, you know what parts and assemblies it consists of, which will allow you to quickly replace a broken part. Most often, the repair of a perforator comes down to a banal replacement of “flying” elements, which include:

Anchor;

brushes;

gears;

Starters;

Bearings;

Cables for connecting to the network;

Switches.

It is worth noting that it is easiest to repair light class tools, given that such a hammer drill is perfect for construction work at home.. But breakdowns of more serious equipment are much more difficult, and only professional craftsmen can handle them. In any case, no matter what class of tool you are interested in, find a model with a vacuum cleaner - this device will save you time on cleaning, and will also make your work safer, because it reduces the amount of dust.Another problem is in the breakdown of the windings, rewinding of the armature and starter, which also arise due to dust. Repair consists of thorough cleaning and replacement of those parts that cannot be repaired. However, "prevention" is a more reliable method. To do this, you need to clean the device every two weeks, impregnate it with varnish or grease. By the way, the choice of lubricant must be taken carefully. Yes, there are a few rules. First, it is better to purchase a solution from the same manufacturer (Bosch, Makita, Enkor), as the perforator itself, in this case, oil or varnish will fit perfectly in its composition. If there is no such composition at hand, diesel engine oil is perfect for you.The second most common cause of breakage is brush wear, no matter how much your tool cost - even the most expensive models are prone to this problem. It is very easy to replace them: we disassemble the punch according to the above described scheme, we find worn brushes and put new ones in their place. It is only necessary to correctly determine which of them is best to use: carbon, graphite or carbon-graphite. So, graphite ones have a long service life, however, due to the hardness of the material, the collector may suffer. Carbon elements have a short life, but they have high-quality contact with other parts of the perforator. The purchase of the third option is considered optimal and inexpensive.There are problems with the mechanical elements of the device. Each model is equipped with switching modes, and they often fail, especially on cheap devices. The algorithm of work is the same - we disassemble the puncher, find broken parts, replace them. The main thing is to purchase items suitable for this model. A similar problem often "haunts" cartridges that are subjected to maximum load. First of all, protect them from dust and dirt by washing the elements with grease. But if the cartridge is still broken, we will have no choice but to change it.

Einhell BBH 920

Note that in addition to the three-mode apparatus, there is a good suitcase, equipped with decent drills, an additional handle, a pike and a chisel.

Next was the Makita HR2410 - a classic, if not legendary, representative of light rotary hammers. You can really enjoy working with such a thing. Not only does the device weigh only 2.3 kg (compared to 3.2 kg from Einhell), it is also perfectly balanced, has a neat “licked” body.

Makita HR2410

Everyone knows the saying: "You can't break through a wall with your finger - you need a Bosch puncher." I have. Three! BOSCH GBH 2-24 DSR has become our main strike force. It has been working flawlessly for many years, sometimes just not turning off.

BOSCH GBH 2–24 DSR

It was not necessary to repair, for all the time (probably more than ten years) the brushes and one worn boot changed once. The machine is quite compact, weighing only 2.4 kg, but it produces as much as 2.4 J of impact energy. The engine is not very powerful - 680 W, but this is enough to drill holes in concrete with a diameter of up to 24 mm, as, in fact, indicated in the passport. My most popular 6x160 drills go into the wall effortlessly. The model has the necessary set of options, characteristic of a professional puncher. Among them are electronic speed control, a safety clutch, which really works when the drill is jammed. I am glad that there are three modes, which is a little lacking in the Makita HR2410. Their switch is large, but clear and informative - you need to try to put it in an intermediate position and not notice the absence of a characteristic click. It has its own button that protects against accidental translation.

The flat chisel can be fixed at almost any angle (36 positions). The reverse and smooth sensitive button allows, if necessary, to use it as a heavy-duty screwdriver for long self-tapping screws or serious drilling. All you have to do is insert the adapter chuck. A button that fixes the “start” key in the pressed state helps to unload the hand during intensive work. It also makes it possible, if you are drilling in an uncomfortable position, to remove your fingers from the handle and slightly press on the tool along the drilling axis, this, by the way, is facilitated by a pronounced “visor” on the body. Another feature of the GBH 2-24 DSR is a really long power cord that usually reaches any outlet in the room.

Standing on the scaffold, you can not be afraid to step on the electric carrying block or open the connection at the most inopportune moment - it rests somewhere on the floor. For those who like to work with two hands, the manufacturer equipped the puncher with a handle that can be moved around in a circle, but it bothers me more. The set comes with a convenient spacious case made of solid plastic.

A real workhorse, never failed for many years of merciless exploitation. Great machine for professional use. GBH 2-24 DSR is really worth the money, and its price was about $250. BOSCH is constantly improving its line of light rotary hammers, and this model has already been discontinued.So, soon we will look for new heroes, there are plenty to choose from. I held a lot of more or less fresh boches in my hands, I really liked the GBH 2-20 D and GBH 2-24 DF.

After good impressions from a household screwdriver, I decided to try a rotary hammer of the same BOSCH PBH 2000 RE series in practice. I will say right away that the result exceeded all expectations.

BOSCH PBH 2000 RE

I took it purely for quick assembly 6x40, 6x60. But with a maximum single impact energy of 1.5 J, the “baby” can easily cope with larger holes, up to the declared 20 mm. Almost as simple as the light blue professional counterparts. Could this be? In general, the ratio of motor power to an impact force of 550 W / 1.5–1.7 J in professional circles is considered ideal in terms of tool wear resistance, many manufacturers adhere to this proportion for ultra-light models. Its engine is only 550 watts, so some difficulties, of course, arise on viscous bases (for example, not completely dried concrete), but this is rather a rare exception to the rule. It feels very fast, I looked into the passport - indeed, the impact frequency is 5800 beats / min., And the nominal shaft speed is 2300 rpm.

The plastic of which the case is made is pleasant to the touch, obviously shockproof - checked. The recognizable triangular body design makes it even more durable and stable. And BOSCH PBH 2000 RE is incredibly beautiful.

This is a great hammer drill, even for the construction site. Positioning it as a tool for home use is rather conditional. The conclusion suggests itself that BOSCH is one of the few that made a budget line of tools “for the home workshop” and was forced to “strangle” the characteristics of the professional series a little for the assortment. But something special came out, for which many thanks to the developers. For three years we have been exploiting this baby at the facilities, and there have been no problems, even the brushes have not been changed. I think it can easily outlive several Chinese copies that are close in price. The cost of PBH 2000 RE in retail is only $110-120.

The reason for the longevity of my perforators, in many respects, I consider a careful attitude towards them and strict adherence to the manufacturer's recommendations. I also set some general rules for myself:

Use only high-quality branded accessories (lubricant, adapter cartridge, drills).
Perform regular cleaning and maintenance.
Don't forget to lubricate the SDS shank of the working tool.
Do not overload the puncher, give it time to cool down.
A long hole was drilled in several passes (pulling out the drill, you remove the waste).
Do not press on the perforator - the armature may overheat, the impact mechanism will wear out.
Don't work too long in the chiseling mode - spin the machine on a clean rotation for a couple of minutes (this simple operation provides both cooling and forced lubrication of the parts).
Do not bend the working tool relative to the axis of the hole - the cartridge breaks.
Check the condition of the anther and brushes.
At the slightest malfunction, bring it to the service, do not allow costly breakdowns.
Do not take Chinese, it is better to support a responsible German manufacturer (yes, I know, I know that everything is now assembled in China).

Any tool, including a puncher, requires special care and careful use. Therefore, each owner of such an electric tool is obliged to regularly inspect the unit, to know how to disassemble the hammer. It is quite possible to disassemble and repair the device at home without spending a penny on the services of a specialist.

A hammer drill is an indispensable tool at any construction site, but due to careless use, it wears out very quickly and fails. This is due to the large loads on the tool. As we know, the rock drill often works at full power in the most difficult conditions. Due to such loads, even branded models are susceptible to breakage. Therefore, each owner of this device should know how to repair a perforator with their own hands.

Like any other technical device, a hammer drill can be repaired; for this, it is not necessary to carry it to a specialized workshop. Although not every man knows how to repair a hammer drill, it doesn’t matter! This article will help you do your own repairs without outside help.

The most common cause of tool breakage is a broken wire. Due to simple inattention, people pay considerable money for a trifle at a rotary hammer repair service. An elementary inspection is enough to understand that the tool has broken conditionally, that it can be easily repaired by yourself without outside help.

Not always a visual inspection will help to identify the cause of the breakdown. In this case, the next step will be the analysis of the perforator. If the device has served for many years and is not of significant value, you can try to find the cause of the breakdown by disassembling the tool into separate parts. Feel free to proceed with offline repair if the cause of the tool malfunction is visible visually and you already have an idea about the filling of perforators. If the device was purchased relatively recently, and the model itself is more modern and costs a lot of money, then it is best to contact a service center, because self-repair can not only repair the device, but cause harm. If the inspection of the unit did not reveal a breakdown, then it is necessary to wait a while with the repair of the perforator. In the latter case, it will not be superfluous to consult an experienced specialist.

Any irregularities in the operation of the tool have their own causes that should be detected. A person who has purchased a tool, for example, from Bosch or Sparky, expects from him a corresponding high result of work, as from any foreign, high-quality product. To eliminate the risk of serious damage, you need to know the principle of operation of the device. By some characteristic signs, you can identify the cause of the breakdown and prevent a larger problem from occurring.

Signs:

The smell of burning from the device.
During operation, pauses occur or small short circuits occur.
The device does not turn on the first time or works intermittently.
The appearance of extraneous noise when working with the device. At the same time, such noises were not noticed before.

Any of the above signs should not be ignored. Proceed to find out the cause of the failure of the unit. For trouble-free operation over a long period, you should carefully monitor and care for the tool. To repair the device, you should study the components of the perforator and learn how to disassemble and assemble it.

A damaged wire on the device, like other small mechanical damage, can be easily noticed. If you make a thorough inspection of the parts of the tool, then it is not difficult to see other minor malfunctions that led to the breakdown of the device. For more serious problems, disassembly of the perforator is necessary. And upon completion of the repair work - also the assembly of the perforator. The second operation in some cases is more complicated than the first - the appearance of extra parts after assembly will indicate repair miscalculations. To prevent this from happening, you need to not only know how to properly fix the punch, but also how to assemble it. It is important to be attentive and careful during instrument repair, then in 99% of cases the repair will be successful!

To proceed with the repair of the perforator, including the barrel type, you should correctly disassemble the device:

Removing the rubber tip and ring spring. After that, we proceed to remove the casing of the drill coupling itself.
Carefully pull out the steel ball, which acts as a fixation.
Removing the switch handle, having previously placed the operating mode lever in the maximum position. Press the position lock button.
Removing the lining (rear) on the handle.
Removing the motor brush.
Removing the front part, for which you need to unscrew the 4 screws located near the drill.
We take out the rotor. To do this, unscrew the crepes located on the stator, after which we unfasten 4 terminals from the stator contacts.
We take out the remaining parts.

In some cases, if the problem lies in the gearbox or impact mechanism, we additionally unscrew the end of the gearbox housing, after which we carefully remove the casing made of plastic. To keep the parts in place, it is best to do this whole process with the tool on its side.

In most cases, repairs consist of replacing broken and defective parts. But there are other problems in the operation of the tool:

Breakdown of the winding. To solve the problem, rewind the armature and stator.

Wear of brushes. In this case, they resort to disassembling the punch and replacing worn parts.

Deterioration of the anther of the perforator. It cannot be repaired, only replaced.

Perforator cartridge. The problem will be noticeable if its rim starts to constantly slow down the rotation. To be replaced.

Bad lubrication. Periodically check the oil level in the tray. Some parts of the tool should also be lubricated: the intermediate shaft, the gear of the gearbox.

Bearing wear. Bearings gradually collect dust and dirt during operation, the grease thickens, they begin to overheat and, as a result, fail. To be replaced.

If the breakdown is serious, and you have no repair experience, the best option for you is to contact experienced craftsmen. Do not start repairs if you are not sure that you can independently identify the cause of the breakdown, and are not able to solve it!

the smell of burning;
the appearance of unnatural additional sounds;
unstable operation or reduced performance of the puncher.

If at least one of the above points occurs, you should stop work immediately - Your hammer drill needs repair. But before you start troubleshooting the punch yourself, you need to deal with its internal structure.

With engine mounted horizontally.
With vertical motor.

In all other respects, all the details of the perforator are basically similar.

The perforator consists of two parts: electrical and mechanical.

The main element of the perforator is the engine, which consists of an anchor and brushes.
Engine control device.
Start and stop button.
Elements suppressing interference (capacitor, chokes);
Power cord.

In some models, the switch is combined with a control device.

Some models may be equipped with additional parts:

mode switch;
a vacuum cleaner;
depth limit;
other.

Before proceeding with the repair, the unit must be disassembled.Each model has its own disassembly nuances. But in most cases, any model consists of two parts: front and back halves connected with screws. Before unscrewing them, you need to remove the cartridge. In some models, the cartridge can not be removed.

Malfunctions can also be of two types: those associated with the electrical part of the perforator and mechanical failures. Image - Bbh 920 einhell do-it-yourself repair

This may be due to a broken wire. Very often the cord breaks near the handle itself.

Replace the entire cable or shorten part of it at the point where the break occurred. If the gap occurred somewhere in the middle, strip it of insulation, connect the parts, carefully insulate the cord.

Poor contact of the trigger elements.

Such a breakdown can occur due to oxidation or burnout of the contacts.

Clean the elements or replace with new ones.

Breakage of the extinguishing mechanism.

From a large load, parts of this mechanism simply burn out.

you can connect the motor directly

Burnout UUD. There are no options - you need to change the mechanism.

Broken winding. Such a breakdown is unlikely to be repaired. Need a rewind.

Sparks may be due to the fact that the brushes do not fit snugly against the armature. Such The problem occurs for two reasons: the brushes are worn out or the brushes are damp as a result of moisture entering the inside of the brush body.

Insert new brushes or dry them and clean them with fine-grained sandpaper.

This may also indicate the oxidation of the anchor due to moisture ingress.Clean the anchor. Important do this procedure carefully.so as not to damage the winding. An eraser or cotton swab moistened with alcohol is best suited for this. Image - Bbh 920 einhell do-it-yourself repair

Visually inspect all items. If the problem is in the brushes, replace it; if the motor is stuck, fix the problem (there is a description in the mechanical damage below).

With mechanical damage, it is a little more difficult: the puncher consists of many parts, so it may not be possible to immediately determine the cause of the breakdown. The main thing, carefully visually inspect all the details, and after identifying the breakdown, carefully eliminate it. Here are the main possible damage that you can fix yourself.

The device turns on, but does not hammer.

Switch. Most devices are equipped with mode switches. This mechanism is prone to failure. If the hammer has stopped hammering, the reason is most likely the worn out switch fingers. During work they are constantly in contact with rotating parts and this leads to wear and tear.
The latch process that holds it in the gearbox housing has broken, which contributes to spontaneous switching of modes. You can not change the latch, if this problem does not bother you, the puncher will still work.

Replace switch. But if there is no suitable switch, and work cannot be stopped, then you can turn the worn part 180 degrees and you can continue working.

Change lubricant twice a year.
Once every six months, a preventive examination of the brushes.
Thorough cleaning every time after work.
Before work, lubricate the back of the drill or chisel to reduce the load on the striker.

If the punch has stopped working normally or a breakdown has occurred, read the instructions and carefully inspect it. Before you start repairing your own hands, really evaluate your capabilities. If you are sure, try to fix it yourself, otherwise, if in doubt, it is better to contact a specialist. And remember that already repaired mechanisms are not subject to warranty and they are reluctantly taken by service centers for repairs.

Video (click to play).