Bbh 920 einhell DIY repair

Details: bbh 920 einhell do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

During repair and construction, you cannot do without a hammer drill. This is the tool that makes life easier for us the most, it is on it that the greatest loads fall. All companies that manufacture tools also make rotary hammers - the offer is off the charts. It is very easy to make a mistake with choosing a reliable device suitable for specific conditions, and such a miracle of technology is not cheap.

Einhell BBH 920
Makita HR2410
BOSCH GBH 2-24 DSR
BOSCH PBH 2000 RE

Aged builders say that earlier holes in concrete, brick and stone were made using bolts. Apparently also a German invention (German Schlagbohrer; schlagen - to beat, and bohrer - drill). This is such a guide made of a strong metal pipe with jagged edges, along which, with all the strength, you need to hit with a hammer and gradually turn it so that it does not jam. Next, a planed wooden cork is used, a nail is hammered into it or a screw is screwed in.

Simultaneously with the fall of the Iron Curtain, the bolt was replaced first by foreign-made percussion drills, then by the first perforators. A technical revolution has taken place in the post-Soviet space again. The previously unknown fastening systems, quick-assembly dowels, TDN dowel-wedge, and expansion anchors, came in very handy. The finishers were able to quickly and reliably fasten the cladding to the supporting structures, make through holes for the passage and fixing of engineering communications. The era of European-quality repairs has begun.

Einhell BBH 920
No matter how hard we tried, the Einhell BBH 920 perforator practically repeated the fate of the first-born, only it worked in difficult conditions for about a season, after which it stopped hitting and was transferred to the category of mixers, since the repair dragged the sale of the tool to half of the new perforator.

Video (click to play).

Rotary hammer in a man's life Einhell BBH 920

His anchor burned out safely under the mixer. They say it is wound with aluminum, I can't confirm it - I didn't make it out. The impressions were mixed. A horizontally located engine is already something, there are clearly more amenities than with a vertical. There is already a smooth start and protection against jamming, chiseling, impact drilling and hammerless drilling. The gearbox has an aluminum casing, the body itself is durable, made of rather elastic plastic. I don’t know what it’s connected with, but even using the puncher for its intended purpose, it was quite often necessary to change the brushes. Cord insulation is brittle, weak plug. The ergonomics of the product is quite tolerable, one might say traditional. The button and switches have worked smoothly for their entire service life. Feels like the frequency and impact force (2.5 J) does not correspond to the declared ones, the tool drills slowly and heats up quickly. Apparently, the developers did not manage to realize the impressive engine power (920 W) in the performance characteristics. 3.2 kg of weight also does its dirty work, hands get pretty tired by the end of the day.

A hammer drill in a man's life

Note that in addition to the three-mode device there is a good suitcase, complete with decent drills, an additional handle, a lance and a chisel.

A hammer drill in a man's life

We can say that the model could successfully cope with its tasks, being in the arsenal of a home master. But at the moment, this puncher will not compete even with household samples of European brands, either in quality or in real tactical and technical indicators. Its price has grown noticeably lately and is approaching the $ 90 mark.

Makita HR2410
Next was the Makita HR2410 - a classic, if not legendary, representative of light rock drills.You can really enjoy working with such a thing. Not only does the device weigh only 2.3 kg (compare with 3.2 kg from Einhell), it is also perfectly balanced, has a neat "licked" body.

Hammer drill in a man's life Makita HR2410

The handle is comfortable both with a “pistol” grip and with an emphasis on the drilling axis, which has a positive effect when working overhead. The mode switch is located unusually - at the bottom (the sides are smooth - with one more hook less).

A hammer drill in a man's life

The simply huge electronic switch deserves special attention, its key has a long stroke, which makes it possible to very smoothly change the speed. The significance of this feature can be felt when starting drilling in metal or when the drill is coming out of the workpiece. The model is rightfully considered professional, there is a safety clutch, electronic speed control, reverse. I personally lack the chiselling mode, it is very convenient to clean the masonry with a perforation, to knock down small influxes of concrete in the corners. Sometimes I use this option when I need to dismantle a profile, for example, an erroneously mounted one (I push the dowel through the metal with a drill, and the UD or HC is released). Impact forces (2 J) and engine power (680 W) are enough for the basic needs of the finisher.

A hammer drill in a man's life

Many of my colleagues will not fail to point out that this model is the last century. That is so, but the old man HR2410 has been working properly for ten years, and it cost, it seems, a little more than $ 200. Lovers of statistics say that at one time it was the best-selling rotary hammer in the world - it seems, not by chance. I'm probably old-fashioned, but if this Makita was in production now I would honestly recommend it to all my friends. Of the new, relatively inexpensive models, I would choose between the HR2610 and HR2470. I could not ignore the compact, ultralight HR1830, but this, of course, is not for everybody.

Anyone who has ever had to work with a hammer drill knows how difficult its operating conditions are. That is why do-it-yourself punch repair is such a popular request on the Internet. And today we will tell you absolutely everything regarding the repair of this tool.

Undoubtedly, the owners of such expensive equipment want their devices to be of high quality, to do their job 100%. First of all, correct use of the tool will save you from serious damage, which we will talk about a little later. And, of course, the device was repaired on time. At the same time, any small failure should already become a cause for concern and preparation for repair.

So, such "beacons" can be:

Unstable work of the punch in the working mode;
The appearance of strange sounds when turning on the punch;
The smell of burning;
The hammer drill does not hammer, although there is no apparent reason for this.

As soon as something like this happens to your equipment, it means it's time to repair. Like any such work, it requires care, understanding the cause of the breakdown and knowledge of how to cope with it. And your very first step in repairing is disassembling the tool into its components. For many, even this stage causes difficulties, and therefore it is necessary to know everything down to the nuances - how, what and why!

Just imagine that your tool suddenly stops working or you urgently need to replace any defective part. The easiest way is to take the hammer drill to a service center for repair, but this takes time, which means it will stop your work for a while. But if you know how the device is disassembled, it will be much easier for you to carry out the rest of the work. In addition, this will lead to significant cost savings, because there will be no need to spend money on paying for the services of repair centers.

Instructions for parsing the tool:

We start work, starting from the upper unit: first, the rubber tip is removed, then the washer, the spring, the ball finishes working.
After you have removed the ball, we unscrew the screws that hold the case, remove the cover on the handle, if available, and lastly disconnect the stator wires.
We remove the brush holder.
The next step is to separate the gearbox and housing until a gap forms. It is through it that we will retrieve the switch.
After that, the punch body is placed vertically, with the help of a vise, it is fixed, and all its parts are carefully removed from the device.

Whatever breakdown awaits you, clean the case - sometimes it is dirt and dust that prevent the device from working normally.

You should be as prepared as possible to repair a device such as a hammer drill, which will keep financial and labor costs to a minimum. It's not bad if you are more or less familiar with the construction of a punch, you know what parts and assemblies it consists of, which will allow you to quickly replace a broken part. Most often, the repair of a perforator is reduced to a banal replacement of the "flying" elements, which include:

Anchor;

Brushes;

Gears;

Starters;

Bearings;

Network cables;

Switches.

It is worth noting that the easiest way to repair light tools, given the fact that such a hammer drill is perfect for construction work at home.... But breakdowns of more serious equipment are much more difficult, and only professional craftsmen can handle them. In any case, no matter what class of tool you are interested in, find a model with a vacuum cleaner - this device will save you time for cleaning, and also make your work safer, as it reduces the amount of dust.Another problem is the breakdown of the windings, rewinding of the armature and starter, which also arise from dust. Repair consists in thorough cleaning and replacement of those parts that cannot be repaired. However, "prevention" is a more reliable method. To do this, you need to clean the device every two weeks, soak it with varnish or grease. By the way, the choice of a lubricant must be carefully considered. So, there are several rules. First, it is better to purchase a solution from the same manufacturer (Bosch, Makita, Enkor), as the perforator itself, in this case, in terms of its composition, oil or varnish will be ideal. If such a composition is not at hand, a diesel engine oil is perfect for you.The second most popular cause of breakage is brush wear, no matter how much your tool costs - even the most expensive models are prone to this problem. It is very easy to replace them: we disassemble the perforator according to the above described scheme, find worn brushes and put new ones in their place. You just need to correctly determine which of them is best used: coal, graphite or carbon-graphite. So, graphite ones have a long service life, however, due to the hardness of the material, the collector may suffer. Carbon elements have a short life, but they have high-quality contact with other parts of the hammer drill. The purchase of the third option is considered optimal and inexpensive.There are also problems with the mechanical elements of the device. Each model is equipped with switching modes, and they often fail, especially on cheap devices. The algorithm of work is the same - we disassemble the puncher, find the broken parts, replace them. The main thing is to purchase items suitable for this model. A similar problem often "haunts" cartridges that are exposed to maximum stress. First of all, protect them from dust and dirt by rinsing the elements with grease. But if the cartridge is still broken, we will have nothing to do but change it.

Einhell BBH 920

Note that in addition to the three-mode device there is a good suitcase, complete with decent drills, an additional handle, a lance and a chisel.

Next was the Makita HR2410 - a classic, if not legendary, representative of light rock drills. You can really enjoy working with such a thing. Not only does the device weigh only 2.3 kg (compare with 3.2 kg from Einhell), it is also perfectly balanced, has a neat "licked" body.

Makita HR2410

Everyone knows the saying: “You can't break a wall with your finger - you need a Bosch puncher”. I have. Three! BOSCH GBH 2-24 DSR has become our main striking force. It has been working reliably for many years, sometimes it just doesn't turn off.

BOSCH GBH 2-24 DSR

It did not have to be repaired, for the entire time (probably more than ten years) the brushes and one worn out dust cover were changed once. The machine is quite compact, weighs only 2.4 kg, but produces as much as 2.4 J of impact energy. The motor is not very powerful - 680 W, but this is enough to drill holes in concrete with a diameter of up to 24 mm, as, in fact, it is indicated in the passport. My most popular 6x160 drills enter the wall effortlessly. The model has the necessary set of options typical of a professional rotary hammer. Among them are electronic speed control, a safety clutch, which really works when the drill gets jammed. I am glad that there are three modes, which is a little lacking in the Makita HR2410. Their switch is large, but clear and informative - you need to try to put it in an intermediate position and not notice the lack of a characteristic click. It has its own button to prevent accidental translation.

The flat chisel can be locked at almost any angle (36 positions). The reverse and smooth sensitive button allows, if necessary, to use it as a heavy-duty screwdriver for long self-tapping screws or serious drilling. It is only necessary to fit the adapter chuck. A button that fixes the "start" key in the pressed state helps to relieve the hand during intensive work. It also makes it possible, if you are drilling in an uncomfortable position, to remove your fingers from the handle and slightly press on the tool along the drilling axis, which, by the way, is facilitated by a pronounced "peak" on the body. Another feature of the GBH 2-24 DSR is a really long power cord that usually reaches any outlet in the room.

Standing on the scaffold, you can not be afraid to step on the electric carrier block or open the connection at the most inopportune moment - it rests somewhere on the floor. For those who like to work with two hands, the manufacturer has equipped the perforator with a handle that can be rearranged in a circle, but it bothers me more. The set includes a comfortable spacious case made of high-quality plastic.

A real workhorse, I have never failed over many years of merciless exploitation. Great car for professional use. GBH 2-24 DSR is really worth the money, and its price was about $ 250. BOSCH is constantly improving its line of light rock drills, and this model has already been discontinued.So, we will soon be looking for new heroes, there are plenty to choose from. I held in my hands a lot of more or less fresh boshes, I really liked GBH 2-20 D and GBH 2-24 DF.

After good impressions from the household screwdriver, I decided to try the hammer drill of the same BOSCH PBH 2000 RE series. I will say right away that the result exceeded all expectations.

BOSCH PBH 2000 RE

I took it purely for quick assembly 6x40, 6x60. But with a maximum energy of a single blow of 1.5 J, the "baby" copes without problems with larger holes, up to the declared 20 mm. Almost as simple as the lightweight professional brethren in blue housings. Could this be? In general, the ratio of motor power to impact force of 550 W / 1.5-1.7 J in professional circles is considered ideal in terms of tool durability, many manufacturers adhere to this ratio for ultra-light models. Its engine is only 550 watts of power, so some difficulties, of course, arise on viscous substrates (for example, not completely dried concrete), but this is rather a rare exception to the rule. Feels like it is very fast, looked into the passport - indeed, the impact rate is 5800 bpm, and the nominal shaft rotation speed is 2300 rpm.

The plastic from which the body is made is pleasant to the touch, clearly shockproof - checked. The recognizable triangular design of the case makes it even more robust and stable. And also BOSCH PBH 2000 RE is incredibly beautiful.

This is a great rock drill, even for the construction site. Positioning it as a tool for home use is rather arbitrary. The conclusion suggests itself that BOSCH is one of the few that made a budget line of tools “for a home workshop” and was forced to slightly “strangle” the characteristics of the professional series for the assortment. But something special came out, for which many thanks to the developers. For three years we have been using this baby at sites, and no problems, even the brushes have not changed. I think it can easily outlast several Chinese copies of similar prices. The retail price of PBH 2000 RE is only $ 110-120.

The reason for the longevity of my hammer drills, in many respects, I consider a careful attitude towards them and strict adherence to the manufacturer's recommendations. I also defined some general rules for myself:

Use only quality branded accessories (grease, adapter chuck, drill bits).
Clean and maintain regularly.
Remember to lubricate the SDS-tool shank.
Do not overload the hammer drill, let it cool down.
A long hole was drilled in several passes (pulling out the drill removes waste).
Do not press on the perforator - the armature may overheat, wear of the percussion mechanism.
Do not work too long in chiseling mode - spin the machine in a clean rotation for a couple of minutes (this simple operation provides both cooling and forced lubrication of the parts).
Do not bend the working tool about the axis of the hole - the chuck will break.
Monitor the condition of the boot and brushes.
At the slightest malfunction, bring it to the service, do not allow costly breakdowns.
Do not take the Chinese, it is better to support a responsible German manufacturer (yes, I know, I know that everything is now assembled in the PRC).

Any tool, including a hammer drill, requires special care and careful use. Therefore, each owner of such an electric tool is obliged to regularly inspect the unit, to know how to disassemble a hammer drill. It is quite possible to disassemble and repair the device at home without spending a penny on the services of a specialist.

A hammer drill is an indispensable tool at any construction site, but due to careless use it wears out and breaks down very quickly. This is due to the high stress on the tool. As we know, the rock drill is often used at full power in the toughest conditions. Due to such loads, even branded models are susceptible to breakdowns. Therefore, every owner of this device should know how to repair a hammer drill with his own hands.

Like any other technical device, a hammer drill can be repaired, for this it does not have to be carried to a specialized workshop. Although not every man knows how to repair a hammer drill, it doesn’t matter! This article will help you do DIY repairs without assistance.

The most common cause of tool breakage is loose wire. Due to simple inattention, people pay significant money for a sheer trifle in puncher repair services. An elementary inspection is enough to understand that the tool has broken conditionally, that it can be easily repaired by yourself without outside help.

Not always, a visual inspection will help to identify the cause of the breakdown. In this case, the next step is to disassemble the punch. If the device has served for many years and is not of significant value, you can try to find the cause of the breakdown by disassembling the tool into separate parts. Feel free to start offline repairs if the cause of the tool malfunction is visible visually and you already have an idea of the perforator stuffing. If the device was purchased relatively recently, and the model itself is more modern and costs a lot of money, then it is best to contact the service center, because an independent repair can not only fix the device, but cause harm. If the inspection of the unit did not reveal a breakdown, then it is necessary to postpone the repair of the hammer drill. In the latter case, it will not be superfluous to consult an experienced specialist.

Any irregularities in the operation of the instrument have their own reasons, which should be found out. A person who has purchased a tool, for example, from Bosch or Sparky, expects from him a corresponding high result of work, as from every foreign, high-quality product. To eliminate the risk of serious damage, you need to know the principle of operation of the device. By some characteristic signs, it is possible to identify the cause of the breakdown and prevent the occurrence of a larger problem.

Signs:

Burning smell from the device.
During operation, there are pauses or small short circuits.
The device does not turn on the first time or works intermittently.
The appearance of extraneous noise when working with the device. At the same time, such noises were not noticed before.

Any of the above signs should not be ignored. Begin to investigate the cause of the unit failure. For trouble-free operation over a long period of time, you should carefully monitor and care for the instrument. To fix the device, you should study the components of the puncher and learn how to disassemble and assemble it.

A damaged wire on the device, like other minor mechanical damage, can be easily noticed. If you make a thorough examination of the parts of the instrument, then it is not difficult to see other minor malfunctions that led to the breakdown of the device. For more serious problems, you need to disassemble the hammer drill. And upon completion of the repair work - also the assembly of the perforator. The second operation in some cases is more difficult than the first - the appearance of unnecessary parts after assembly will indicate repair miscalculations. To prevent this from happening, you need not only to know how to properly repair a hammer drill, but also how to assemble it. It is important to be careful and careful when repairing a tool, then in 99% of cases the repair will be successful!

To start repairing a perforator, including a barrel type, you must properly disassemble the device:

Removing the rubber tip and ring spring. After that, we proceed to remove the drill sleeve casing itself.
We carefully take out the steel ball, which acts as a fixation.
Removing the switch handle, having previously placed the operating mode lever in the maximum position. Press the button to fix the position.
Removing the cover (rear) on the handle.
Removing the motor brush.
Removing the front part, for which you need to unscrew the 4 screws located near the drill.
We take out the rotor. To do this, unscrew the crepes located on the stator, then detach 4 terminals from the stator contacts.
We take out the remaining parts.

In some cases, if the problem lies in the gearbox or percussion mechanism, we additionally unscrew the end of the gearbox housing, and then carefully remove the casing made of plastic. To keep the parts in place, it is best to do this entire process with the tool on its side.

In most cases, repairs involve replacing broken and defective parts. But there are other problems in the operation of the instrument:

Breakdown of the winding. To solve the problem, rewind the armature and stator.

Wear of brushes. In this case, they resort to disassembling the puncher and replacing the worn parts.

Wear of the anther of the hammer drill. It cannot be repaired, only replaced.

Punch chuck. The problem will be noticeable if its rim starts to slow down constantly. Replaceable.

Poor lubrication. Check the oil level in the oil pan periodically. Some parts of the tool should also be lubricated: the intermediate shaft, the gear wheel.

Bearing wear. Bearings gradually collect dust and dirt during operation, the grease thickens, they begin to overheat and, as a result, fail. Replaceable.

If the breakdown is serious, and you have no experience in repairing, the best option for you is to contact experienced craftsmen. Do not start repairs if you are not sure that you can independently identify the cause of the breakdown, and are not able to solve it!

the smell of burning;
the appearance of unnatural additional sounds;
unstable operation or decreased performance of the hammer drill.

If at least one of the above points has arisen, you should stop work immediately - your hammer drill needs repair. But before you start troubleshooting the punch yourself, you need to figure out its internal structure.

With the engine mounted horizontally.
With a vertical motor.

In all other respects, all the details of the hammer drill are basically the same.

The hammer drill consists of two parts: electrical and mechanical.

The main element of the hammer drill is the motor, which consists of an anchor and brushes.
Engine control device.
Start and stop button.
Interference suppression elements (capacitor, chokes);
Power cord.

In some models, the switch is combined with a control device.

Some models can be equipped with additional parts:

mode switch;
a vacuum cleaner;
depth limit;
other.

Before proceeding with the repair, the unit must be disassembled.Each model has its own nuances of disassembly. But in most cases, any model consists of two parts: front and rear halves, screwed together. Before unscrewing them, you need to remove the cartridge. On some models, the cartridge can be left on.

Malfunctions can also be of two types: associated with the electrical part of the hammer drill and mechanical failures. Image - Bbh 920 einhell DIY repair

This could be due to a broken wire. Very often the cord breaks near the handle itself.

Replace the entire cable or shorten part of it at the point where the break occurred. If the rupture occurs somewhere in the middle, strip it of insulation, connect the parts, carefully insulate the cord.

Poor contact of the elements of the trigger.

Such damage can occur due to oxidation or burnout of the contacts.

Clean the elements or replace them with new ones.

Damage to the extinguishing mechanism.

From a heavy load, parts of this mechanism simply burn out.

can connect the motor directly

Burnout of UUD. There are no options - you need to change the mechanism.

Broken winding. Such a breakdown is unlikely to be fixed by yourself. Need to rewind.

Sparks can be caused by the brushes not fitting snugly against the armature. Such the malfunction occurs for two reasons: Brush wear or moisture penetration into the brush body is damp.

Insert new brushes or dry them and clean them with a fine-grained sandpaper.

This may also indicate oxidation of the armature due to moisture ingress.Clean the anchor. Important do this procedure carefullyso as not to damage the winding. An eraser or cotton swab moistened with rubbing alcohol is best for this. Image - Bbh 920 einhell DIY repair

Visually inspect all elements. If the problem is in the brushes, replace it, in case of a motor jam, eliminate the malfunction (below there is a description for mechanical damage).

With mechanical damage it is a little more difficult: the hammer drill consists of many parts, so it may not be possible to immediately establish the cause of the breakdown. The main thing, carefully visually inspect all the details, and after identifying a breakdown, carefully eliminate it. Here are the main possible damages that you can fix yourself.

The device turns on, but does not hammer.

Switch. Most devices are equipped with mode switches. This mechanism is susceptible to breakdowns. If the hammer drill stops hammering, most likely the reason is the worn out fingers of the switch. During work they are in constant contact with rotating parts and this leads to wear and tear.
The branch of the retainer, which holds it in the gearbox housing, has broken, which contributes to spontaneous switching of modes. You don't have to change the retainer, if you are not confused by this problem, the punch will still work.

Replace switch. But if there is no suitable switch, and the work cannot be stopped, then you can turn the worn part 180 degrees and you can continue working.

Change the lubricant twice a year.
Every six months a routine inspection of the brushes.
Thorough cleaning every time after use.
Lubricate the back of the drill or chisel before work to reduce the load on the firing pin.

If the hammer drill stops working normally or there is a breakdown, read the instructions and inspect it carefully. Before you start repairing yourself, really assess your capabilities. If you are sure, try to fix it with your own hands, otherwise, if in doubt, it is better to contact a specialist. And remember that already repaired mechanisms are not subject to warranty obligations and they are reluctantly taken by service centers for repairs.

Video (click to play).