Details: beko washing machine do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Washing machines that have worked for 10–15 years sooner or later begin to break down due to wear of parts. Any technique has its own finite resource. The Beko washing machine is no exception - the malfunctions that occur with it are divided into three categories. The former allow you to make repairs on your own, the latter require the intervention of a specialist, well, and the third are so complex and expensive in terms of money that it is easier to purchase a replacement for a washing machine (SM). We will figure out when we will repair Beko washing machines with our own hands, and when we need the help of craftsmen.
Dismantling the Beko automatic washing machine is impossible without knowing its device - you can familiarize yourself with it with the instructions that come with each unit of the product. According to the statistics of service centers, CM Veko break down due to the following reasons:
Dirt accumulates in the drain paths. Or the pump is broken - 30% of all calls.
Malfunctions of the electronic module - 20%. And most often, budget-class models with an Invensys board break down. The element is made of a low-grade material that is prone to cracking - because of this, the conductive paths are damaged. Most often, the sevenistors that control the operation of the heating element, the filler valve, and the electric motor break down.
Breakage of temperature sensors - 15%.
Depressurization and, as a result, leaks - 10%.
Extraneous noise - 10%. Appear due to a malfunction of the bearings or the ingress of foreign bodies into the apparatus.
Before using the Beko washing machine, study its instructions, and before disassembling it, its device. If you entrust the washer to the master, there is no doubt that he will quickly find the cause of the malfunction and offer the best solution to the problem. High prices for services force home craftsmen to find out on their own - what is broken in the machine? Many problems are fixed without the help of masters, especially if you have tools, instructions and a diagram of the device at hand. Almost all modifications can be repaired by hand - WKB 51001 M, WKB 61031 PTYA, WKB 61001 Y, etc.
Video (click to play).
Considering the prices for repair work, why not try to cope without the participation of masters, especially if the washer is 10 years old and it’s not so scary if it breaks down completely: it’s still time to update the “park”. The following are typical breakdowns that owners of Turkish washers face:
Water does not heat up to the value provided by the program or set by the user. Things are washed in cool water, regardless of the program. The opposite effect is also possible - overheating of water above the desired temperature.
Liquid slowly fills the washer. Or it doesn't fill at all.
Beko washing machine won't start due to uncovered hatch.
At the end of the cycle, the liquid does not drain. This condition may be accompanied by a strong hum.
The drum makes a loud noise as it spins.
Programs and modes do not start, and the indicators flash all at the same time. Or the light is on, but the CMA does not start washing.
Pressing the start button does not start the machine, but the power cord is connected to the outlet.
Beko washing machine models with a display display error codes - H1, H2, H3, H4, H5, H6 and H7. SMA doesn't work.
These are not all the "symptoms" of malfunctions that happen with Veko machines - we have listed the most common ones. Let's consider further how to eliminate the most typical breakdowns.
In the CMA, dirty fluid is passed through a drain filter that prevents hair, thread, and dirt particles from entering the pump.The task of the user is to clean the filter. But first you have to find it. As a rule, it is located at the bottom of the device. Before removing the filter, place a basin nearby or lay a rag so that the water gushing out of the hole does not spread on the floor.
In some Beko models, the filter is supplemented with an emergency hose - for easy draining of the liquid. How to clean the drain:
Turn the filter clockwise and remove it.
Clean the removed element from dirt, and then wash it under running water.
Take a screwdriver to clean the nozzle - debris can also accumulate in it.
Since you have taken up the tools, do one more useful thing at the same time - preventive cleaning of the inlet filter mesh. Water is supplied through it, which may contain particles of contaminants. Lingering in the grid, they prevent the normal filling of the tank. Before you put the mesh back in place, look at the water intake hose - it may also be clogged.
The problem is solvable, but you will need to partially disassemble the device. TEN - a thermoelectric heater, among the leaders in the list of frequently breaking elements. Due to the poor quality of water, salt deposits - scale - are deposited on the surface of the heater. When it becomes too much, the heating element does not work well, and then completely fails. The scale layer prevents normal heat transfer. The heater, deprived of the ability to give the generated heat to the water, simply burns out - it has to be replaced.
But even when using ideal water or using special anti-scale products, there is no guarantee that the heating element will not burn out. He has a certain resource of work, after which wear occurs. Trouble codes H2 and H3 signal problems with the heating element. But to find out exactly what happened, you need to get to the heater. There are Veko models in which the heater is in the back, there are also those in which it is placed in front.
To remove and check the heater, you need to disassemble the Beko washing machine. Sequencing:
To get the heating element located in front of the apparatus, it is necessary to dismantle the cuff on the hatch. It should be removed very carefully - the cuff is easily damaged, which will subsequently lead to leaks.
You can see the tail of the heating element with contacts and wires going to them. Disconnect wires.
Measure the resistance with a tester. The normal value lies in the range of 25-30 ohms. Other values indicate a breakdown.
Unscrew the nut of the bolted connection holding the heating element at the bottom of the drum, remove it.
Remove debris and debris from the installation site.
Install the new element in reverse order. Connect wires.
If after checking it turned out that the heater is working, proceed to check the thermistor. This sensor is located under the top panel. Get it out and check it out:
Loosen the screws to remove the top panel.
Remove the powder container and dismantle the control panel - these elements prevent access to the temperature sensor. When the sensor is accessible, disconnect the wires from it.
Measure the resistance with a tester. Under normal conditions - 4.7 kOhm.
Warm up the sensor - dip it in warm water, the resistance should decrease. If the resistance remains the same, the sensor is broken, you will have to change it.
The thermistor is mounted in the same way as it is dismantled - the steps are performed in the reverse order.
Only users with electrical repair skills can handle this task. If there is a broken or oxidized contact somewhere, they will quickly fix the problem. All that is needed for the repair work of Beko electricians is a circuit diagram. Where can I get it? It is enough to know the exact name of the model to find it on the manufacturer's web resource.
It is much more difficult with electronics - to repair or replace the control board, you need special knowledge and skills.The cost of the electronic module is high - it reaches a third of the price of the entire SMA. Therefore, it is not recommended to touch it - it is better to trust a specialist. If the repair is small, then fixing the module will be inexpensive. But independent experiments can lead to a complete failure of the module - you will have to purchase a replacement for it, and a simple problem is transformed into expensive repairs.
Models from Beko have design advantages that are especially useful when replacing bearings:
The device is much easier to disassemble than most analogues from other brands.
Usually, you don't even have to take out the tank to replace the bearing.
It is enough to remove the front of the tank to remove the drum. The back stays in place.
It is necessary to remove the entire tank when the bearing is destroyed - when it is necessary to get its remains.
What other disassembly features:
To gain access to the front of the tank, remove the front panel. Next, unscrew the lower counterweight. Disconnect all tubes and wiring.
Advice. Before disconnecting the wires, fix the starting position in the photo - this will help you in the future when you assemble the device.
The front of the tank is held by 12 clips - all of them need to be dismantled to get it. Now it remains to remove the back panel, dismantle the pulley put on the axle shaft of the drum, and then remove the drum itself. Please note that the bearings fit on the axle shaft with an interference fit, so it must be knocked out by gently striking with a rubber mallet.
The screw connection holding the pulley on the drum shaft must not be removed.
Experts advise users to carry out on their own only the most simple repairs that do not require special knowledge, namely:
Replacement of damaged parts or assemblies.
Elimination of blockages.
It is better to entrust all other cases to professionals so as not to harm the washer even more. Typical cases that you can deal with yourself:
drain filter cleaning;
pump replacement;
check and replacement of the inlet valve;
TENA replacement.
Different models of SMA Veko have not only a similar device and characteristics, but also the same problems. In a 5 kg Beko machine, the malfunctions will be the same as in a 3 kg machine. Timely familiarization with the instructions and compliance with the operating rules will help prevent problems.
The washing machine is considered one of the most important pieces of equipment in every home. CMA from the Beko company, produced in various types at affordable prices, is popular. Like other equipment, cars from this company are not considered eternal and can also break down at the wrong time.
Masters claim that BEKO machines are equipped with not very high-quality parts, which include a control board, a temperature sensor, and a relay. The repair of such machines does not always justify itself, and the consumer is forced to purchase a new washer. But sometimes the problems are not too serious, it is quite possible to fix them on our own. So it’s worth dealing with typical failures and understanding how Beko washing machines are repaired.
Professional washing machine repairmen can, after observing the working equipment, name a node or element that has failed or will soon break down and require repair. It's simple - problems began with the washing machine, it is immediately necessary to call a specialist and a workshop so that he can identify the cause and, if circumstances are successful, carry out repairs on the spot. It seems that everything is easy and simple, and there is no headache. Yes, and in some situations such an act justifies itself.
But there is one caveat - a call to the master's house will cost you a tidy sum. Quite often it happens that paying for repair services is more expensive than buying a new automatic washing machine. It's a shame to pay money in this case, especially when it is not possible to quickly make a new acquisition.But there is one way out - to carry out repairs with your own hands. True, you will have to correctly determine the failure, and the main signs of breakdowns will help in this:
there is no water heating, or it heats up very strongly, violating the set temperature regime;
water enters the tank for a long time, or does not drain at all;
the door does not close tightly, which prevents the washing process from starting;
after the process, the waste water does not go into the sewer, the machine hums a lot;
when the drum rotates, a strong rattle, clang and other extraneous noises are heard;
not a single program starts, because after turning on all the lights on the panel blink. The second option - the program can be set, but not activated;
the washing machine does not turn on from the start button;
If you notice that the washing process takes place in cold water, violating the set program, you can suspect a breakdown of the heating element or the control board. A similar conclusion is reached when water is superheated, almost reaching the boiling point. Most likely, the whole problem is in the board, but the heating element must also be checked.
After starting the washing program, water should begin to flow into the tank, and the intensity of this process depends on the set program. But when you don’t visually see the water in the tank, and the drum rotates with dry things, or after a while the machine just “freezes”, then you should look for one of the following reasons:
there is no water in the plumbing;
clogging of the filter located at the base of the intake hose;
the water intake valve failed;
failure of the control unit.
The BEKO machine is designed in such a way that it will never start washing until the door is closed tightly, and a special blocking sensor sends the necessary signal to the control board. If the hatch does not close at all, or seems to be closed, but the wash has not started, it is necessary to inspect the lock. Perhaps it has broken and cannot hold the door. The second problem is the sensor itself. If it's all about the latch, try lightly pressing on the hatch and try to activate the washing program.
When the washing process is completed, the machine must drain the dirty water and collect fresh water to complete the rinse. This process is accompanied by a hum emitted by the drain pump. The water drains quickly enough, then the machine takes a new amount of liquid. But if some time has passed, and the washer has not drained the waste water and “hangs”, or the pump is buzzing, but the water does not come off, then problems should be sought in:
pump for draining water;
a board responsible for process control;
blockage of the drain hose or sewer pipe.
When the washing machine emits a characteristic clang, rattle and knock during operation, it is quite possible that the bearings have failed, or a foreign object has fallen into the tank, stuck between it and the drum. In this case, the machine should be immediately turned off and all measures taken to fix the problem.
The CMA may not turn on at all, or it may blink all the lights, and turning it on again does not give a positive result. In this case, the problems may be related to:
breakdown of the start button of the machine;
failure of the management unit;
breakage of the power cord.
The best option is when the washing machine does not just refuse to work, but gives a certain error code. With it, you can immediately understand what the problem is.
We will figure out how to repair Beko washing machines on our own.
You should be aware that after washing on a typewriter, the waste water is not clean and transparent. To prevent various small debris and dirt from clogging the pump, a special filter is installed in front of it, which in most cases becomes clogged. The main task is to find this element, which is usually located at the bottom of the machine, under a small hatch or panel.
Further actions should occur in the following sequence:
To cope with such a failure, you will have to partially disassemble the washing machine again. But first it should be noted that in all machines, the thermoelectric heater is among the weakest nodes. In the people it is called by a simple word - TEN. The mineral components in the pipes under the influence of hot water begin to crystallize and accumulate on the heater with ordinary scale. Plaque does not allow heat to pass to the water, so the heating element burns out. But if the water in the pipes is soft, and scale does not appear, or you use special tools, then the heating element is still able to burn out, since it has its own working resource.
In order to make sure exactly what happened to the heating element, you need to get to it. The peculiarity is that in different models it is located both in front and behind. For the first case, the steps are as follows:
remove the front panel of the machine. But first you need to remove the cuff from the door. It is necessary to act carefully so as not to cause damage to it;
two contacts will stick out in front of you with wires connected to them, which must be disconnected;
using a tester, you need to check the resistance. Normally, its value will be from 25 to 30 ohms. In other cases, we can confidently assume that the heating element has failed;
unscrew the nut holding the heating element under the drum from the bolt, carefully pull out the heating element;
we clean the place for its installation from plaque and accumulated debris;
install a new analogue, connect the wires.
If the heater is in good condition, check the temperature sensor located under the top panel.
unscrew the screws and remove the top panel;
the sensor is dismantled along with the detergent tray and the control panel, since all this interferes with getting to the element of interest to us;
having opened access to the sensor, it is necessary to disconnect all wires from it;
check the resistance. Normally, it should be 4.7 kOhm;
the sensor must be kept in a container with warm water - the resistance indicator should decrease. Otherwise, the element must be replaced;
the new sensor is installed in place, all work is performed in the reverse order.