Beko washing machine DIY repair

In detail: beko washing machine do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Washing machines that have been in operation for 10-15 years sooner or later begin to break down due to wear of the parts. Any technique has its own finite resource. The Beko washing machine is no exception - malfunctions that happen to it are divided into three categories. The first ones allow you to make repairs on your own, the second ones require the intervention of a specialist, well, and the third ones are so complex and expensive in terms of money that it is easier to purchase a replacement for a washing machine (SM). We will figure out when we will repair the Beko washing machines with our own hands, and when we need the help of the masters.

Dismantling the Beko automatic washing machine is impossible without knowing its structure - you can familiarize yourself with it with the instructions that come with each unit of the product. According to the statistics of service centers, SM Veko breaks down due to the following reasons:

Dirt builds up in the drain. Or the pump is broken - 30% of all calls.
Electronic module malfunctions - 20%. And most often budget-class models with Invensys motherboards break down. The element is made of a low-grade material that is prone to cracking - because of this, the conductive paths are damaged. Most often, the seven-story valves that control the operation of the heating element, the filler valve, and the electric motor break down.

Breakage of temperature sensors - 15%.
Depressurization and, as a result, leaks - 10%.
Extraneous noise - 10%. They appear due to a malfunction of the bearings or the ingress of foreign bodies into the apparatus.

Before using the Beko washing machine, read its instructions, and before disassembling - its device. If you entrust the washing machine to the master, there is no doubt that he will quickly find the cause of the malfunction and offer the best solution to the problem. High prices for services force home craftsmen to find out on their own - what is broken in the typewriter? Many problems are eliminated without the help of wizards, especially if you have tools, instructions and a diagram of the device at hand. Almost all modifications can be repaired by hand - WKB 51001 M, WKB 61031 PTYA, WKB 61001 Y, etc.

Video (click to play).

Considering the prices for repair work, why not try to cope without the participation of the masters, especially if the washing machine is 10 years old and is no longer so scary if it breaks completely: it is still time to update the "park". Below are the typical breakdowns faced by the owners of Turkish washing machines:

The water is not heated to the value provided by the program or set by the user. Clothes are washed in cool water, regardless of the program. The opposite effect is also possible - water overheating above the required temperature.
The liquid slowly fills the washer. Or it is not filled at all.
The Beko washing machine does not start due to an uncovered hatch.
At the end of the cycle, the liquid is not drained. This condition may be accompanied by a strong hum.
The drum makes loud noises as it rotates.
Programs and modes do not start, and the indicators flash all at the same time. Or the light is on and the CMA does not start washing.
Pressing the start button does not start the machine, but the power cord is plugged into the outlet.
Beko washing machine models with a display show error codes - H1, H2, H3, H4, H5, H6 and H7. The SMA does not work at the same time.

These are not all "symptoms" of problems with Veko machines - we have listed the most common ones. Let's consider further how to eliminate the most typical breakdowns.

In the CMA, the dirty liquid is passed through a drain filter, which prevents hair, threads and dirt particles from entering the pump.The user's task is to clean the filter. But first you have to find him. As a rule, it is located at the bottom of the device. Before removing the filter, place a basin next to it or place a rag so that the water gushing from the hole does not spread across the floor.

In some Beko models, the filter is supplemented with an emergency hose - for convenient drainage of the liquid. How to clean a drain:

Turn the filter clockwise and remove it.
Clean the removed element from dirt and then wash it under running water.
Use a screwdriver to clean the nipple - debris can also build up in it.

While you're at it with your tools, do one more useful thing at the same time - preventive cleaning of the inlet filter mesh. Through it, water is supplied, which may contain dirt particles. Retaining in the grid, they prevent the normal filling of the tank. Before putting the mesh back in place, look at the water intake hose - there may also be a blockage in it.

The problem can be solved, but it will be necessary to partially disassemble the device. TEN is a thermoelectric heater, among the leaders in the list of frequently breaking elements. Due to the poor quality of water, salt precipitates - scale deposits on the surface of the heater. When there is too much of it, the heating element does not work well, and then completely breaks down. The limescale layer prevents normal heat dissipation. The heater, deprived of the ability to give the generated heat to the water, simply burns out - it has to be replaced.

But even when using ideal water or using special anti-scale agents, there is no guarantee that the heating element will not burn out. He has a certain resource of work, after which wear and tear occurs. Problems with the heating element are signaled by fault codes H2 and H3. But to find out what exactly happened, you need to get to the heater. There are Veko models in which the heating element is in the back, there are also those in which it is placed in front.

To remove and check the heater, you need to disassemble the Beko washing machine. Sequencing:

To get the heating element located in front of the device, it is necessary to dismantle the cuff on the hatch. It should be removed very carefully - the cuff can be easily damaged, which will subsequently lead to leaks.

You can see the tail of the heating element with contacts and wires going to them. Disconnect the wires.
Measure the resistance with a tester. The normal value is in the 25-30 ohm range. Other values indicate a breakdown.

Unscrew the nut of the bolt connection holding the heating element at the bottom of the drum and remove it.
Remove debris and deposits at the installation site.
Install the new element in reverse order. Connect the wires.

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If after checking it turns out that the heater is working, proceed to checking the thermistor. This sensor is located under the top panel. Get it out and check it:

Unscrew the screws to remove the top panel.
Take out the powder container and disassemble the control panel - these elements prevent you from reaching the temperature sensor. When the sensor is accessible, disconnect the wires from it.
Measure the resistance with a tester. Under normal conditions - 4.7 kOhm.

Warm up the sensor - immerse it in warm water, the resistance should decrease. If the resistance remains unchanged, the sensor is broken, you will have to change it.
The thermistor is mounted in the same way as dismantled - the steps are performed in the reverse order.

Only users with electrical repair skills can handle this task. If somewhere there is an open or oxidized contacts, they will quickly fix the problem. All that is needed for the repair work of the electrician "Beko" is a schematic electrical diagram. Where can I get it? It is enough to know the exact name of the model to find it on the manufacturer's web resource.

It is much more difficult with electronics - in order to repair or replace the control board, you need special knowledge and skills.The cost of the electronic module is high - it reaches one third of the price of the entire AGR. Therefore, it is not recommended to touch it - it is better to trust a specialist. If the repair is small, then the repair of the module will be inexpensive. But independent experiments can lead to the complete failure of the module - you will have to purchase a replacement for it and a simple malfunction will transform into expensive repair work.

Beko models have design advantages that are especially useful when replacing bearings:

The device is much easier to disassemble than most analogues from other brands.
Usually, you don't even have to take out the tank to replace the bearing.
It is enough to remove the front part of the tank to remove the drum. The back remains in place.
It is necessary to remove the entire tank when the bearing is destroyed - when it is necessary to get its remnants.

What other features of disassembly:

To gain access to the front of the tank, remove the front panel. Next, unscrew the lower counterweight. Disconnect all tubing and wiring.

Advice. Before disconnecting the wires, fix the original position in the photo - this will help you later when you assemble the device.

The front of the tank is held by 12 clamps - all of which must be removed to reach it. Now it remains to remove the back panel, dismantle the pulley put on the drum axle shaft, and then remove the drum itself. Please note that the seating of the bearings on the semi-axle is made with an interference fit, so it must be knocked out by gently hitting with a rubberized hammer.

The screw connection holding the pulley to the drum shaft must not be removed.

Experts advise users to carry out on their own only the simplest repair work that does not require special knowledge, namely:

Replacement of damaged parts or assemblies.
Elimination of blockages.

It is better to entrust all other cases to professionals so as not to harm the washer even more. Typical cases that you can deal with yourself:

cleaning the drain filter;
replacement of the pump;
checking and replacing the intake valve;
replacement of heating elements.

Different models of SMA Veko have not only a similar device and characteristics, but also the same problems. In a 5 kg Beko machine, the faults will be the same as in a 3 kg machine. Timely familiarization with the instructions and compliance with the operating rules will help prevent problems.

The washing machine is considered one of the most important types of equipment in every home. CMAs from the Beko company, produced in various types at reasonable prices, are popular. Like other equipment, cars from this company are not considered eternal and can also break down at the wrong time.

The masters claim that the VEKO machines are equipped with not very high-quality parts, which include a management board, a temperature sensor, and a relay. The repair of such machines does not always justify itself, and the consumer is forced to purchase a new washing machine. But sometimes the problems are not too serious, it is quite possible to eliminate them on our own. So it is worthwhile to deal with typical failures and understand how the repair of Beko washing machines is carried out.

Professional repairmen of washing machines can, after observing the working equipment, name a unit or element that has failed or will soon break down and will require repair. Everything is simple - problems have begun with the washing machine, you immediately need to call a specialist and a workshop so that he can identify the cause and, with a successful combination of circumstances, carry out repairs on the spot. It seems that everything is easy and simple, and there is no headache. And such an act in some situations fully justifies itself.

But there is one caveat - a call to the master's house will cost you a tidy sum. Quite often it happens that paying for repair services is more expensive than purchasing a new automatic washing machine. It is a shame to pay money in this case, especially when there is no opportunity to quickly make a new purchase.But there is one way out - to carry out the repair with your own hands. True, you will have to correctly determine the failure, and the main signs of breakdowns will help in this:

there is no water heating, or it heats up very much, violating the set temperature regime;
water enters the tank for a long time, or does not drain at all;
the door does not close tightly, which does not allow starting the washing process;
after the process, the waste water does not go into the sewer, the machine hums strongly;
when the drum rotates, a strong grinding, clanging and other extraneous noises are heard;
not a single program starts, because after switching on, all the lights on the panel blink. The second option - the program can be exposed, but not activated;
the washing machine from the start button does not turn on;
the display shows an error code.

If you notice that the washing process takes place in cold water, violating the set program, you can suspect a breakdown of the heating element or the control board. A similar conclusion is reached when water overheats, practically reaching its boiling point. Most likely, the whole problem is in the board, but the heating element also needs to be checked.

After starting the program, water should begin to flow into the tub for washing, and the intensity of this process depends on the set program. But when you do not visually observe the water in the tank, and the drum rotates with dry things, or after a while the machine simply “freezes”, then you should look for one of the following reasons:

there is no water in the water supply;
clogging of the filter located at the base of the intake hose;
the water intake valve has failed;
breakdown of the control unit.

The BEKO machine is designed in such a way that it will never start washing until the door is closed tightly and a special sensor-blocker sends the required signal to the control board. If the hatch does not close at all, or it seems to be closed, but the wash has not started, it is necessary to inspect the blockage. It may have broken down and cannot hold the door. The second problem is the sensor itself. If it's all about the latch, try pushing lightly on the hatch and try to activate the wash program.

When the washing process is completed, the machine must drain the dirty water and draw in fresh water in order to rinse. This process is accompanied by a hum produced by the drain pump. The water is drained out quickly enough, then the machine takes in a new amount of liquid. But if some time has passed, and the washing machine has not drained the waste water and "hangs", or the pump hums, but the water does not come off, then problems should be looked for in:

pump for draining water;
a board responsible for managing processes;
a blockage in the drain hose or sewer pipe.

When the washing machine emits a characteristic clang, rattle and knock during operation, it is quite possible that the bearings are out of order, or a foreign object has got into the tank, getting stuck between it and the drum. In this case, the machine should be turned off immediately and all measures should be taken to fix the problem.

The SMA may not turn on at all, or it blinks with all the lights, and turning it on again does not give a positive result. In this case, the problems may be related to:

breakage of the starting button of the machine;
failure of the management block;
a break in the power cord.

The best option is when the washing machine not only refuses to work, but gives out a certain error code. With its help, you can immediately understand what the problem is.

Let's figure out how to repair Beko washing machines on our own.

You should be aware that after washing on a machine, the waste water is not clean and transparent. To prevent various small debris and dirt from clogging the pump, a special filter is installed in front of it, which in most cases becomes clogged. The main task is to find this element, which is usually located at the bottom of the machine, under a small hatch or panel.

Further actions should take place in the following sequence:

To cope with such a failure, you will have to partially disassemble the washing machine again. But first, it should be noted that in all machines, the thermoelectric heater is among the weakest units. People call it a simple word - heating element. The mineral components in the pipes under the influence of hot water begin to crystallize and accumulate on the heater with ordinary scale. Plaque does not allow heat to pass to the water, so the heating element burns out. But if the water in the pipes is soft, and scale does not appear, or you use special means, then the heating element is still able to burn out, since it has its own working resource.

In order to be sure exactly what happened to the heating element, you need to get to it. The peculiarity is that in different models it is located both in the front and in the back. For the first case, the actions are as follows:

the front panel of the machine is removed. But first it is necessary to remove the cuff from the door. You must act carefully so as not to damage it;
in front of you there will be two contacts with wiring connected to them, which must be disconnected;
using a tester, you need to check the resistance. At the norm, its value will be from 25 to 30 ohms. In other cases, we can confidently assume that the heating element has failed;

unscrew the nut from the bolt holding the heating element under the drum, carefully pull out the heating element;
we clean the place for its installation from plaque and accumulated debris;
we install a new analogue, we connect the wires.

If the heating device is working properly, check the temperature sensor located under the top panel.

unscrew the screws and remove the top panel;
the sensor is dismantled along with the detergent tray and the control panel, since all this creates obstacles in order to get to the element of interest to us;
having opened access to the sensor, it is necessary to disconnect all wires from it;
check the resistance. Normally, it should be 4.7 kOhm;
the sensor must be held in a container with warm water - the resistance indicator should decrease. Otherwise, the element must be replaced;
the new sensor is installed in place, all work is carried out in reverse order.

DIY electrical and electronics repair.

If you have special knowledge and the necessary experience in the repair of electrical appliances, then you can eliminate contact breakage or terminal oxidation rather quickly. All that is required is the electrical wiring diagram of the machine, which can be found in the instruction manual.But with electronics, not everything is so simple. Repairing or replacing the management board requires specialized knowledge and experience. Considering the cost of a new module, you should not try to repair it yourself. It is better in this case to invite a master who will do everything himself.

Vibration of the washing machine.

During the operation of the unit for washing things, in particular - during the spinning cycle, the machine gives out a strong vibration, starts "jumping" in different directions. Pay attention to how much laundry is loaded. Vibration is possible if the maximum rate is exceeded. Another recommendation is to check how correctly the support legs of the MCA are set. They are leveled so that the apparatus does not wobble. Experts advise using special stands when installing the machine.

As a result, we can conclude that the BEKO washing machine is quite reliable, but it is also capable of breaking. Calling a foreman can be quite expensive, so you need to try to carry out the repair work yourself.

Be aware that if you are a user of a Beko washing machine with a maximum load of five kilograms, then all its faults will be similar to models designed for three kilograms of things. And in order for the machine to work flawlessly for a long time, we recommend that you carefully study the requirements of the operating instructions and follow all of its rules.

A washing machine, like any other household appliance, likes to break down at the most inopportune moment.But do not panic right away: if your unit is manufactured under the Veko brand, you can easily fix some malfunctions yourself.And our article will help you, in which we will discuss the repair of the Veko automatic washing machine with our own hands.To better understand which malfunctions the Beko washing machine is most susceptible to, you should take a closer look at the failure statistics collected by the service centers. According to their observations, the following breakdowns most often occur in these units:

Accumulation of dirt in the drain line or failure of the drain pump - 30% of cases.

Malfunctions of the electronic module - 20% of failures. The statistics are spoiled by inexpensive machines of this brand, in which the Invensys board is installed. The inferior material it is made of is fragile and can crack, leading to rupture of the tracks. Most often, the semiconductors for controlling the heating element, filling valves, and an electric motor are affected.

The temperature sensor or heating element fail in 15% of cases.

Leaks - in 10% of cases.

The wear of the brushes of the electric motor or the rupture of the drive belt is 10%.

The appearance of extraneous noise during operation - 10%.

This phenomenon is most often caused by the ingress of a foreign object, breakage of a shock absorber, or destruction of a bearing. Image - Beko washing machine DIY repair

Not every breakdown of the washing machine can be fixed on your own, but it is quite possible to clean the filter or replace the heating element yourself. Whirlpool washing machine: do-it-yourself repair of the main malfunctions of the machine.

We will consider the repair of the mechanical component of Zanussi washing machines here.

Do you own an Indesit washing machine? Then the following article will be useful for you: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/740/cancliz/mnogokvartirnyie-doma/santehnika/stiralnaya-mashina-indezit-neispravnosti-remont-svoimi-rukami. html. Algorithm for troubleshooting the unit and ways to eliminate them.

In many cases, the user can reanimate the washing machine on their own, even without special skills. Let's consider several situations:

It is clear to everyone that the waste water does not differ in crystal purity - this is the specificity of the washing machine.

To prevent dirt from accumulating in the pump, a drain filter is installed in its path - it is it that clogs up most often.

Deal with this problem as follows:

First you need to find a drain filter, which is always located at the bottom of the machine behind a decorative hatch or panel.
Now you need to substitute a sufficiently capacious container under the car, into which we will pour the waste water.
In some models of Veko brand washing machines, there is an emergency water drain hose next to the drain filter. If there is one, it should be used - it is more convenient to drain the water than through the filter hole.
The filter should be removed by unscrewing it counterclockwise, thoroughly cleaned and rinsed under running water.
Using a screwdriver, you can also clean the pipe in which the filter was installed - usually it is also heavily clogged with dirt and silty deposits.

Since I had to take up the tools, at the same time, for the purpose of prevention, you can clean the filter on the water supply, which can be easily found at the place where the inlet hose is attached to the machine body. Sand and rust particles that accumulate in it over time can impede the collection of water.

After cleaning the drain filter, do not rush to reinstall it, first you need to check the operation of the drain pump.In fact, the Veko washing machine, thanks to the built-in self-diagnosis function, in many cases can track the pump malfunction by itself, displaying the "H5" error code on the display.

But there are breakdowns that the machine "does not see", for example, wedging of a loosened impeller (the appearance of a strong backlash can be guessed by the characteristic hum).

To check the pump, you need to start the machine in drain mode, observing through the hole in the filter plug behind the impeller. It should rotate. If this does not happen, the pump must be cleaned or replaced.

The heating element is a very vulnerable element in the washing machine, since due to the high temperature, the calcium and magnesium salts present in the water actively crystallize on it in the form of a solid deposit.

This plaque (scale) retains heat like a fur coat, so the heating element overheats and burns out.

In the absence of scale, it can also burn out - from the depletion of a resource, like an ordinary incandescent lamp burns out. The machine can signal about problems with the heater with the codes "H2" (break of the heating element) and "H3" (the heating element is constantly on).

To accurately determine the state of the heating element, you first need to get to it. In some models of Veko machines, for this you need to remove the back panel, in others - the front.

To remove the front panel, it is necessary to dismantle the loading door seal. It must be removed very carefully - the slightest damage will lead to leaks.

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The heating element is detected by two contacts in the lower part of the tank with wires connected to them. Disconnect the wires and use a multimeter to measure the resistance between the heater contacts. Normally, at room temperature, it should be 25 - 35 ohms.

Other readings (usually "infinity") indicate a malfunction: the heating element must be pulled out by unscrewing the nut holding it (between the contacts) and replaced with a new one, thoroughly cleaning the mounting hole from the inside from scale.

It so happens that, contrary to expectations, the heating element turns out to be serviceable. Then you need to check the performance of the temperature sensor, which is located under the top cover (to remove it after unscrewing the screws, you need to move it back a little). At room temperature, its resistance should be approximately 4.7 kOhm, and after heating with hot water, it should decrease significantly.

If the thermostat is defective, it must be replaced. To dismantle, pull out and disconnect the hopper for powder, then remove the control panel, having previously disconnected the thermostat and controller handles from it.

Firstly, the machine is much easier to disassemble than many others, and secondly, it is often not required to completely remove the tank.

Only the front part of the tank is removed, after which it becomes possible to pull the drum out of the rear part, which remains in the machine.

The exceptions are cases when one of the bearings has completely collapsed and its parts have to be removed from the glass.

To gain access to the front of the tank, you must first remove the front panel of the machine and unscrew the lower counterweight. Now you need to disconnect all pipes and wires from the tank.

Before disconnecting the tank from the wires and pipes, photograph it with a camera with sufficient resolution, especially the wires. Peeping in the photo, you can avoid assembly errors.

The front of the tank is secured with 12 clips that must be removed. Then it can be detached and pulled out. It remains to unscrew the back wall of the case, remove the pulley from the drum axle shaft and pull out the drum itself. The bearings on the axle shaft are fitted with an interference fit, so it has to be knocked out with careful blows of a rubberized hammer.

Do not reuse the screw that held the pulley to the drum shaft.

What malfunctions of Samsung washing machines can be eliminated without the help of a specialist, you will learn in the following article: DIY repair of a Samsung washing machine and instructions for disassembling the unit.

You can find professional recommendations for the repair of Ardo washing machines at this link.

Despite the fact that imported washing machines serve flawlessly for more than 10-15 years, users often turn to service centers to repair Beko washing machines.In most cases, the problems are of a minor nature, so we suggest considering cases when you can carry out repairs yourself without any problems.Having entrusted the inspection of the machine to an experienced master, you can be sure that he will quickly and professionally find what the problem is. But due to the high prices for services, many home craftsmen are trying to save money and make repairs to the Beko washing machine with their own hands.Almost any SMA model lends itself to home repair: ELB 57001 M, RKB 58801 MA, LNU 68801, etc.This approach is quite justified - often repairs cost exorbitant prices, and sometimes the price is such that you can buy a new machine. At the same time, even the most "killed" car can serve for several more years after being repaired.Don't want to throw away your Veko machine and buy a new one? Try to figure out the problem yourself and fix it yourself.The design of the Beko washing machine also determines the nature of its breakdowns. Consider the typical malfunctions of this brand of washing machines:

The water does not heat up to the set temperatures, the wash goes in cold water in any program. Or vice versa - the water overheats.

Water is slowly drawn into the tank or not filled at all.

The Beko washing machine does not start because the door does not close tightly enough.

There is water in the tub at the end of the wash (this may be accompanied by a strong hum).

The drum rotates with grinding, crashing, clanking and other uncharacteristic sounds.

Not a single wash mode starts - all the lights on the machine blink. Or the program works, the indicator lights up, but the machine does not wash.

The machine cannot be started with the power button (with the power cord plugged in).

Models with an electronic scoreboard issue error codes H1, H2, H3, H4, H5, H6 and H7. The machine does not work.

Important! There may be other signs of failure. We have considered the most frequently encountered among users of SM Beko in Russia.As mentioned earlier, all malfunctions are accompanied by certain symptoms - from minor malfunctions to complete failure. The problem of a home craftsman always lies in one thing - how to connect the existing signs of a breakdown with its causes. Here you just need the knowledge and advice of narrow specialists.Below we will summarize information about the main breakdowns.If you know how to use a Beko washing machine, then you know that the water used up after washing is never clear and clean - this is the specificity of washing. To prevent dirt, threads, hair, etc. from clogging the pump, there is a special drain filter on the way to it, which mainly suffers from blockages.Your task is to find this filter, which is usually located at the bottom of the washer, under a small hatch or behind a panel. How to proceed next:

Before removing the filter, do not forget to substitute a basin or place a rag under the machine, because the remaining waste water will surely pour out of the hole.

In a number of Beko models, along with the filter, an emergency drain hose is also included - with its help it is much more convenient to drain water into any container.

To remove the filter, simply turn it to the right.

Next, clean the filter by hand and rinse under the tap.

Armed with a screwdriver, you can also clean the pipe at the same time - it is usually also clogged with debris from the waste water.

Once you have tools at hand, do not rush to put them away - for prevention, clean the filter that is on the water supply (it is located at the point where the hose is attached to the back panel).Sand and rust from the piping slowly collects in this filter and eventually interferes with the normal flow of water into the drum.

After cleaning the filler filter, do not rush to put it back in place - also check the drain pump. Often, Beko's washing machines, during self-diagnosis, find a pump breakdown and signal this using the H5 fault code. But with some breakdowns, the controller may not see minor violations - such as a loose impeller (can be recognized by hearing a hum).

To check the pump, start the drain mode and look through the hole in the filter plug to see how the impeller behaves. If it rotates, then everything is in order, and if not, then you need to clean or even replace the pump.

To eliminate such a problem, you will also need at least partial disassembly of the Beko washing machine, but more on that below.

First, let's say that one of the most vulnerable nodes in the SM is a thermoelectric heater, simply a heating element. The mineral salts present in the water crystallize under the influence of hot water and settle on the heater in the form of a familiar scale - like in a kettle. Plaque does not allow heat to pass through, so the heating element does not give it to water and burns out.

If there is no scale, you have soft water, or you use special products, this does not mean that the heater could not burn out. The heating element has its own resource of production, and, perhaps, its time has just come.

If the heating element fails, you will learn about it by errors H2 and H3. To be 100% sure what happened to him, first get to the heater. In some Beko models it is at the back, in others at the front.

So, how to disassemble a Beko washing machine, find a heating element, check and replace it, read on:

If the heating element is in front, then in order to remove the front panel, you need to remove the hatch cuff. To remove it, proceed carefully - if something goes wrong, then your activity is fraught with damage to the cuff and leaks.
You will not see the heating element in its entirety - only its shank with two contacts and wires going to them.
Disconnect all wires.
Take a tester and measure the resistance. Typically 25-30 ohms are normal. If the indicators are different (for example, infinity), then the breakdown is obvious.
Remove the heating element by unscrewing the nut from the bolt that holds it under the drum.
Clean the installation site of debris and deposits.
Install the new heating element in the reverse order, reconnecting all the wiring.

This video shows, in strict sequence, how to remove, check and replace the heating element:

If the heating element turned out to be Spanish, then you need to check the temperature sensor (thermistor). You will find it under the top cover. How to get and check the sensor:

Remove the top cover by unscrewing the screws.
Dismantling of the sensor is carried out with the removal of the cuvette for detergents and the control panel - all this interferes with getting to the element. Once you reach the sensor, free it from the wires.
The resistance measured by the tester should be 4.7 kOhm in room conditions.
Heat the sensor in a glass of warm water - after that the readings should drop. If this does not happen, the sensor needs to be changed.
The installation of a new sensor is carried out in the same way as removal, only proceed in the reverse order.

If you have the knowledge and experience in repairing electrical devices, then you will quickly eliminate breaks in contacts or their oxidation. You only need a diagram of the Beko washing machine - you will find it in the manual or on the manufacturer's website, indicating the model of your CM.

As for electronics, everything is ambiguous here.

Repair or replacement of an electronic controller (control board) requires specialized knowledge and rich experience.

Considering that an electronic module can cost as much as a third of your washing machine, it is not profitable to engage in amateur activities. Especially if the board needed minor repairs, which any master will perform for little money. If you "condemn" the module, then you will have to buy a new one, and an innocent breakdown will result in complex and expensive repairs.

Video (click to play).

Remember that it doesn't matter what characteristics your machine is designed for - they break in exactly the same way. If you received a 5 kg Beko washing machine, the faults will be the same as in a similar 3 kg model. To prevent the Beko washing machine from breaking, we advise you to use the operating instructions and follow the rules prescribed there.