Details: beko wb 6108 xd DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
But in some cases, the problem is not so serious, it can be eliminated with your own hands, thereby prolonging the life of your beloved "home helper". That is why we will talk in this article about typical breakdowns and repair of Beko washing machines.
Experienced specialists in the repair of washing machines are able, by looking at the operation of the equipment, to determine which unit or element is broken or is about to break and needs to be repaired. It would seem that if there are problems with your machine, call such a specialist from the service center, and he will deal with the cause of the breakdown, and if you are lucky, he will fix it on the spot. Everything is quick, easy and without unnecessary headaches, and most importantly, in some cases such an act is quite justified.
But there is one "but", the call of the master and his repair services cost money, and a lot. It often happens that repair services are more expensive than the real cost of a Beko automatic washing machine and other brands of machines. It's a shame to give that kind of money for old junk, especially if there is no way to quickly buy a new typewriter. There is only one way out - to try to fix the breakdown with your own hands. But for this you need to correctly identify the breakdown, which will help the "symptoms" of malfunctions of Beko washing machines.
- The water is not heated, and washing takes place in cold water, or, on the contrary, the water heats up very strongly, not in accordance with the temperature set by the user.
- Water is poured into the tank for a very long time or not at all.
- The hatch does not close completely and therefore the wash does not start.
- After the end of the wash, the water does not drain and this is accompanied (or not accompanied) by a strong hum.
- The drum of the Beko washing machine rotates with a strong grinding, clanking and other extraneous sounds.
- It is impossible to start any washing program, because the machine blinks with all the lights after switching on, or the program is set, but does not start.
- The machine does not turn on from the button, although the power cord is plugged into the outlet.
- Beko's machine, which has a display, issues an error code and "refuses" to work.
Video (click to play). |
Note! There may be more symptoms of malfunctions, but most often users have to deal with the above.
As we have already noted above, malfunctions of washing machines give themselves out as external "symptoms" of improper operation or even failure. But the problem is how to relate these symptoms to a specific breakdown? This is where some knowledge and expert advice will be required, let's summarize them in a thesis.
If you see that the wash takes place in cold water, even though according to the program the water should be warm or hot - this may indicate a breakdown of the heating element or control board. The same conclusions can be drawn in the event that the water is constantly overheating, that is, the user sets the temperature to 30 0 С, and the system brings it almost to a boil. In the event of overheating of the water, the probability of a malfunction of the control board is even greater than a malfunction of the heating element, but both elements must be checked.When starting the wash program, the machine should start pouring water into the tub. This happens with varying intensity, depending on the program selected by the user. To see the process of filling with water, it is enough to look through the hatch window.But if you see that 20-30, or even 40 minutes pass, the drum rotates slowly, but water does not flow into the tank, or even time passes and the machine freezes, stopping the execution of the program and giving out a certain error code. There may be four reasons for this:
- there is no water in the water supply system - this fact is easy to check by opening any tap;
- the water filter located at the base of the inlet hose (if any) is clogged, therefore water does not flow into the machine;
- the filler valve has broken;
- defective control unit element.
The Beko automatic washing machine is designed in such a way that it will not start the washing program until the hatch is closed to the end and the blocking device sensor sends a corresponding signal to the control board. If the hatch does not close or seems to be closed, but the washing program is still not activated, it means that either the locking device has broken and does not hold the hatch, because of this, the sensor cannot be triggered, or the sensor itself has broken.
For your information! If there is a problem with the door locking device, try to gently press down on this door with your knee and restart the wash program, perhaps the locking hook simply does not fully enter the counterpart and does not lock.
After the end of the washing program, the washing machine should drain the soapy water and pour fresh water for rinsing. This process is accompanied by the hum of the drain pump. The water is drained out rather quickly, after which the machine starts to draw clean water. If the machine, after a fairly long time, cannot drain the water, and then freezes, or it tries to drain the water, the pump hums, but does not drain, the problem is:- in the pump;
- in the control board;
- a blockage in the drain hose or drain.
If the machine is operating very noisy, the drum rotates with a terrible clang, rattle and bang, it is very possible that the bearings are broken. or just a foreign metal object got into the tank, got stuck between its wall and the drum wall and wedges. Such a breakdown requires an immediate shutdown of the machine and taking measures to eliminate the problem.
Also, the machine may not turn on at all or, after turning it on, start blinking with all the lights, and this repeats itself from time to time and turning the machine on / off again does nothing. In this case, it can:
- break the on / off button of the washing machine;
- break the control unit;
- break the power cable.
It is best if the Beko washing machine with a display does not just freeze, but generates a system error with a specific code. The manufacturer has provided error codes so that the user can identify the breakdown without contacting a specialist. Description and interpretation of these codes are presented in the table below.
In theory, all Beko automatic washing machines can be repaired, no matter how many kg their drums are loaded, how old they are and whether they have displays or control panels. But in practice, problems often arise, either the repair cannot be done by hand, or it is not advisable due to the high cost, or there are no suitable spare parts available. In any case, if you find a breakdown and undertake an independent repair, you need to take these factors into account in order not to end up losing money, losing time and money.
Important! For example, replacing the bearings of a washing machine sometimes takes hours from a specialist, calculate how long it will take you, if at all you can make the replacement correctly.
Experts strongly recommend undertaking only the simplest repairs, which, for example, are associated either with the replacement of units, or with the elimination of blockages. It is better to leave the rest to the masters, because there is a risk of spoiling something, and this, again, will result in unnecessary expenses. So, which of the typical breakdowns can you fix yourself?
- Clean the drain filter to remove any debris and dirt that may interfere with the normal operation of the machine.
- Replace the drain pump, but only if you are convinced that the old one is out of order.
- Check and replace the inlet valve. To do this, you will also have to make sure that the problem is not with the control board.
- Replace the heating element.
Teng breaks down on Beko's washing machines quite often, especially for some reason on domestically produced models with a load of 6 kg. Replacing it yourself is not difficult, the main thing is to perform the following actions in accordance with the recommendations of specialists.
- Teng in Veko washing machines is located in the back of the tank, which means the first thing we do is remove the back wall by unscrewing a few bolts.
- Removing the wall, we see a large round wheel - this is a pulley, just below two large contacts sticking out of the tank - this is a ten.
- We take a suitable key and unscrew the fastening element holding the heating element, disconnect the wires from the contacts.
- Carefully, but with effort, we pull out the heating element from the groove.
- We purchase the same heating element and continue working.
- Carefully insert the new heating element into the groove and screw it on.
- We connect the wires to the contacts, put the back wall of the machine in place and check the operation of the new element.
Summing up, we note that Beko's washing machines, in general, are distinguished by a fair amount of reliability, nevertheless, they, like other devices, break down. Inviting a specialist is an overhead, so this should be done only if the breakdown is complex, in all the rest you can try to save money by doing repairs yourself.
BEKO washing machines of the 6000 series make up the most massive range of Arcelik A.S. products sold in recent years on the Russian market. This range includes both simple products and models with a wide range of functions, produced both in a version with a depth of 54 cm and a dry load of 5 kg, and in a "narrow" version - with a depth of 45 cm and a dry load of 4.5 kg.
High consumer qualities, simplicity and reliability of the design, interchangeability of components and ease of repair operations make the machines of this series easy to use and maintain.
Below are the technical parameters of the 6000 series washing machines that have the same command apparatus (KA), electric motor, etc., and a common electrical circuit. The only exception is the WBF 6004 XC model, where there is no adjustable thermostat (instead there is a “wash in cold water” function), the spin speed is 400 rpm and, accordingly, there are differences in the configuration and layout. The machine of this model is discussed separately in the next paragraph.
Many of the technical data and service tips provided here also apply to washing machines. BEKO previous years of production (models Y-2312C, Y-2416, Y-3350) and LG washing machines (models WD-6003C, WD-6004C, WD-8003C, WD-8004C and WD-1004C).
Rice. one Control panel of the Y-2312C washing machine
On the rice. one shows the control panel of the washing machine Y-2312C, on the rice. 2 washing machine control panel WB-6105 XG, WB-6106 XD, WB 6108 XD, WB 6108 XE, WB 6110 XE and WB 6110 XES, in Fig. 3 washing machine control panels WB 6106 SD, WB 6108 SE, WB 6110 SE and WB 6110 SES.
Rice. 2 Washing machine control panels WB-6105 XG, WB-6106 XD, WB 6108 XD, WB 6108 XE, WB 6110 XE, WB 6110 XES
Rice. 3 Washing machine control panels WB 6106 SD, WB 6108 SE, WB 6110 SE and WB 6110 SES.
Technical characteristics of BEKO 6000 series washing machines are given in table. one
The washing machine is considered one of the most important types of equipment in every home. CMAs from the Beko company, produced in various types at reasonable prices, are popular. Like other equipment, cars from this company are not considered eternal and can also break down at the wrong time.The masters claim that the VEKO machines are equipped with not very high-quality parts, which include a management board, a temperature sensor, and a relay. The repair of such machines does not always justify itself, and the consumer is forced to purchase a new washing machine. But sometimes the problems are not too serious, it is quite possible to eliminate them on our own. So it is worthwhile to deal with typical failures and understand how the repair of Beko washing machines is carried out.
Professional repairmen of washing machines can, after observing the working equipment, name a unit or element that has failed or will soon break down and will require repair.Everything is simple - problems have begun with the washing machine, you immediately need to call a specialist and a workshop so that he can identify the cause and, with a successful combination of circumstances, carry out repairs on the spot. It seems that everything is easy and simple, and there is no headache. And such an act in some situations fully justifies itself.
But there is one caveat - a call to the master's house will cost you a tidy sum. Quite often it happens that paying for repair services is more expensive than purchasing a new automatic washing machine. It is a shame to pay money in this case, especially when there is no opportunity to quickly make a new purchase. But there is one way out - to carry out the repair with your own hands. True, you will have to correctly determine the failure, and the main signs of breakdowns will help in this:
- there is no water heating, or it heats up very much, violating the set temperature regime;
- water enters the tank for a long time, or does not drain at all;
- the door does not close tightly, which does not allow starting the washing process;
- after the process, the waste water does not go into the sewer, the machine hums strongly;
- when the drum rotates, a strong grinding, clanging and other extraneous noises are heard;
- not a single program starts, because after switching on, all the lights on the panel blink. The second option - the program can be exposed, but not activated;
- the washing machine from the start button does not turn on;
- the display shows an error code.
If you notice that the washing process takes place in cold water, violating the set program, you can suspect a breakdown of the heating element or the control board. A similar conclusion is reached when water overheats, practically reaching its boiling point. Most likely, the whole problem is in the board, but the heating element also needs to be checked.
After starting the program, water should begin to flow into the tub for washing, and the intensity of this process depends on the set program. But when you do not visually observe the water in the tank, and the drum rotates with dry things, or after a while the machine simply "freezes", then you should look for one of the following reasons:
- there is no water in the water supply;
- clogging of the filter located at the base of the intake hose;
- the water intake valve has failed;
- breakdown of the control unit.
The BEKO machine is designed in such a way that it will never start washing until the door is closed tightly and a special sensor-blocker sends the required signal to the control board. If the hatch does not close at all, or it seems to be closed, but the wash has not started, it is necessary to inspect the blockage. It may have broken down and cannot hold the door. The second problem is the sensor itself. If it's all about the latch, try pushing lightly on the hatch and try to activate the wash program.
When the washing process is completed, the machine must drain the dirty water and draw in fresh water to rinse. This process is accompanied by a hum produced by the drain pump. The water is drained out quickly enough, then the machine takes in a new amount of liquid. But if some time has passed, and the washing machine has not drained the waste water and "stuck", or the pump hums, but the water does not drain, then problems should be looked for in:
- pump for draining water;
- a board responsible for managing processes;
- a blockage in the drain hose or sewer pipe.
When the washing machine emits a characteristic clank, rattle and knock during operation, it is quite possible that the bearings are out of order, or a foreign object has got into the tank, stuck between it and the drum. In this case, the machine should be turned off immediately and all measures should be taken to fix the problem.
The SMA may not turn on at all, or it blinks with all the lights, and turning it on again does not give a positive result. In this case, the problems may be related to:
- breakage of the starting button of the machine;
- failure of the management block;
- a break in the power cord.
The best option is when the washing machine not only refuses to work, but gives out a certain error code. With its help, you can immediately understand what the problem is.
Let's figure out how to repair Beko washing machines on our own.
You should be aware that after washing on a machine, the waste water is not clean and transparent. To prevent various small debris and dirt from clogging the pump, a special filter is installed in front of it, which in most cases becomes clogged. The main task is to find this element, which is usually located at the bottom of the machine, under a small hatch or panel.
Further actions should take place in the following sequence:
To cope with such a failure, you will have to partially disassemble the washing machine again. But first, it should be noted that in all machines, the thermoelectric heater is among the weakest units. People call it a simple word - heating element. The mineral components in the pipes under the influence of hot water begin to crystallize and accumulate on the heater with ordinary scale. Plaque does not allow heat to pass to the water, so the heating element burns out. But if the water in the pipes is soft, and scale does not appear, or you use special means, then the heating element is still able to burn out, since it has its own working resource.
In order to be sure exactly what happened to the heating element, you need to get to it. The peculiarity is that in different models it is located both in the front and in the back. For the first case, the actions are as follows:
- the front panel of the machine is removed. But first it is necessary to remove the cuff from the door. You must act carefully so as not to damage it;
- in front of you there will be two contacts with wiring connected to them, which must be disconnected;
- using a tester, you need to check the resistance. At the norm, its value will be from 25 to 30 ohms. In other cases, we can confidently assume that the heating element has failed;
- unscrew the nut from the bolt holding the heating element under the drum, carefully pull out the heating element;
- we clean the place for its installation from plaque and accumulated debris;
- we install a new analogue, we connect the wires.
If the heating device is working properly, check the temperature sensor located under the top panel.
- unscrew the screws and remove the top panel;
- the sensor is dismantled along with the detergent tray and the control panel, since all this creates obstacles in order to get to the element of interest to us;
- having opened access to the sensor, it is necessary to disconnect all wires from it;
- check the resistance. Normally, it should be 4.7 kOhm;
- the sensor must be held in a container with warm water - the resistance indicator should decrease. Otherwise, the element must be replaced;
- the new sensor is installed in place, all work is carried out in reverse order.