Details: beko wb 6108 xd do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Many consumers note the reliability of washing machines that were manufactured 10-15 years ago. But even for such machines, the working resource is not infinite and they finally break down. Repair of washing machines Beko, Indesit, Ariston and other brands is not always justified and you have to buy a new machine.
But in some cases, the problem is not so serious, it can be eliminated with your own hands, thereby extending the age of your beloved “home assistant”. That is why we will talk in this article about typical breakdowns and repairs of Beko washing machines.
Experienced washing machine repair specialists are able, by looking at the operation of the equipment, to determine which unit or element is broken or is about to break and needs to be repaired. It would seem that if there are problems with your machine, call such a specialist from the service center, and he will deal with the cause of the breakdown, and if you're lucky, he will fix it on the spot. Everything is fast, easy and without unnecessary headaches, and most importantly, in some cases such an act is fully justified.
But there is one “but” here, calling a master and his repair services cost money, and a lot of it. It often happens that repair services cost more than the real cost of a Beko automatic washing machine and machines of other brands. It's a shame to give that kind of money for old junk, especially if there is no way to quickly buy a new machine. There is only one way out - to try to fix the breakdown with your own hands. But for this you need to correctly identify the breakdown, which will be helped by the “symptoms” of malfunctions of Beko washing machines.
The water is not heated, and washing takes place in cold water or, on the contrary, the water is heated very strongly, not in accordance with the temperature set by the user.
Water is poured into the tank for a very long time or not poured at all.
The hatch does not close completely and because of this, the wash does not start.
After the wash is completed, the water does not drain and this is accompanied (or not accompanied) by a strong hum.
The drum of the Beko washing machine rotates with a strong rattle, clang and other extraneous sounds.
It is not possible to start any washing program, because the machine, after turning on, blinks all the lights or the program is set, but does not start.
The machine does not turn on with the button, although the power cord is plugged into the outlet.
The Beko machine, which has a display, gives an error code and "refuses" to work.
Video (click to play).
Note! There may be more symptoms of malfunctions, but most often users have to deal with the above.
As we noted above, malfunctions of washing machines give themselves out as external “symptoms” of malfunctioning or failure altogether. But the problem is, how can these symptoms be associated with a specific breakdown? This is where some knowledge and advice from experts will be required, let's briefly outline them.
If you see that washing is taking place in cold water, even though the water should be warm or hot according to the program - this may indicate a breakdown of the heating element or control board. The same conclusions can be drawn if the water is constantly overheating, that is, the user sets the temperature to 30 0 C, and the system brings it almost to a boil. In case of water overheating, the probability of a malfunction of the control board is even greater than a malfunction of the heating element, but both elements must be checked.
When you start the washing program, the machine should start pouring water into the tub. This happens with varying intensity, depending on the program selected by the user. To see the process of pouring water, just look through the hatch window.But if you see that 20-30 or even 40 minutes pass, the drum slowly rotates, but the water does not enter the tank, or time passes and the machine freezes, stopping executing the program and issuing a certain error code. There may be four reasons for this:
there is no water in the water supply system - this fact is easy to check by opening any tap;
the water filter located at the base of the inlet hose (if any) is clogged, respectively, water does not enter the machine;
the filling valve is broken;
Faulty element of the control unit.
The Beko automatic washing machine is designed so that it will not start the washing program until the hatch is completely closed and the blocking device sensor sends a corresponding signal to the control board. If the hatch does not close or seems to be closed, but the washing program still does not activate, then either the locking device has broken and does not hold the hatch, because of this, the sensor cannot work, or the sensor itself has broken.
For your information! If there is a problem with the hatch blocking device, try to gently press this hatch with your knee and turn on the washing program again, it is possible that the fixing hook simply does not fully enter the mating part and fixation does not occur.
After the washing program is completed, the washing machine must drain the soapy water and pour in fresh rinse. This process is accompanied by the hum of the drain pump. Draining of water is carried out quite quickly, after which the machine begins to draw clean water. If the machine, after a rather long time, cannot drain the water, and then freezes, or it tries to drain the water, the pump buzzes, but the drain does not occur, the problem lies:
in the pump;
in the control board;
clogged drain hose or drain.
If the machine is very noisy, the drum rotates with a terrible clang, rattle and knock, it is very possible that the bearings have broken or just a foreign metal object got into the tank, got stuck between its wall and the wall of the drum and wedged. Such a breakdown requires the immediate shutdown of the machine and the adoption of measures to eliminate the problem.
Also, the machine may not turn on at all or, after turning on, start blinking all the lights, and this is repeated from time to time and turning the machine on / off again does nothing. In this case it may:
break the on / off button of the washing machine;
break the control unit;
break the network wire.
It is best if the Beko washing machine with a display does not just freeze, but gives a system error with a certain code. The manufacturer has provided error codes so that the user can identify the breakdown without contacting a specialist. The description and interpretation of these codes are presented in the table below.
In theory, all Beko automatic washing machines are repairable, no matter how many kg their drums are loaded, how old they are or whether their control panels have displays. But in practice, problems often arise, or it is impossible to do the repair yourself, or it is not advisable due to the high cost, or there are no suitable spare parts available. In any case, if you find a breakdown and undertake an independent repair, you need to take these factors into account so as not to end up in the loser, losing time and money.
Important! For example, replacing the bearings of a washing machine sometimes takes hours from a specialist, calculate how long you can handle, if at all you can do the replacement correctly.
Experts strongly recommend taking on only the simplest repairs, which, for example, are associated with either the replacement of units or the elimination of blockages. It is better to leave the rest to the masters, because there is a risk of spoiling something, and this again will result in extra costs. So, which of the typical breakdowns can be fixed with your own hands?
Clean the drain filter, removing debris and dirt from there that interfere with the normal operation of the machine.
Replace the drain pump, but only if you are convinced that the old one is out of order.
Check and replace intake valve. To do this, you will also have to make sure that the problem is not in the control board.
Replace the heating element.
Ten breaks down on Beko washing machines quite often, especially for some reason on domestic models with a load of 6 kg. It is not difficult to replace it yourself, the main thing is to perform the following actions in accordance with the recommendations of specialists.
The heater in Veko washing machines is located at the back of the tank, which means the first thing we do is remove the back wall by unscrewing a few bolts.
Having removed the wall, we see a large round wheel - this is a pulley, a little lower from the tank two large contacts stick out - this is a heating element.
We take a suitable key and unscrew the fastener holding the heater, disconnect the wires from the contacts.
Gently, but with effort, pull the heating element out of the groove.
We purchase the same heating element and continue to work.
Carefully insert the new heating element into the groove and fasten it.
We connect the wires to the contacts, put the back wall of the machine in place and check the operation of the new element.
Summing up, we note that Beko washing machines, in general, are fairly reliable, however, they, like other appliances, break down. Inviting a specialist is an expensive business, so this should be done only if the breakdown is complex, in all the rest you can try to save money by doing the repair yourself.
BEKO washing machines of the 6000 series make up the most massive model range of Arcelik A.S. products sold in the Russian market in recent years. This range includes both the simplest products and models with a wide range of functions, produced both in the version with a depth of 54 cm and a load of dry laundry of 5 kg, and in the "narrow" version - with a depth of 45 cm and a load of dry laundry of 4.5 kg.
High consumer qualities, simplicity and reliability of design, interchangeability of components and ease of repair operations make the machines of this series easy to use and maintain.
Below are the technical parameters of the 6000 series washing machines that have the same controller (KA), electric motor, etc. and the general electrical circuit. The only exception is the WBF 6004 XC model, where there is no adjustable thermostat (instead, there is a “wash in cold water” function), the spin speed is 400 rpm and, accordingly, there are differences in the configuration and circuit. The machine of this model is discussed separately in the next paragraph.
Many of the specifications and service recommendations given here also apply to washing machines. BEKO previous years of production (models Y-2312С, Y-2416, Y-3350) and LG washing machines (models WD-6003С, WD-6004С, WD-8003С, WD-8004С and WD-1004С).
Rice. oneWashing machine control panel Y-2312C
On the rice. one washing machine control panel shown Y-2312C, on the rice. 2 washing machine control panel WB-6105 XG, WB-6106 XD, WB 6108 XD, WB 6108 XE, WB 6110 XE and WB 6110 XES, in fig. 3 washing machine control panels WB 6106 SD, WB 6108 SE, WB 6110 SE and WB 6110 SES.
Rice. 3Washing machine control panels WB 6106 SD, WB 6108 SE, WB 6110 SE and WB 6110 SES.
Technical characteristics of BEKO washing machines of the 6000 series are given in Table. one
The washing machine is considered one of the most important pieces of equipment in every home. CMA from the Beko company, produced in various types at affordable prices, is popular. Like other equipment, cars from this company are not considered eternal and can also break down at the wrong time.
Masters claim that BEKO machines are equipped with not very high-quality parts, which include a control board, a temperature sensor, and a relay. The repair of such machines does not always justify itself, and the consumer is forced to purchase a new washer. But sometimes the problems are not too serious, it is quite possible to fix them on our own. So it’s worth dealing with typical failures and understanding how Beko washing machines are repaired.
Professional washing machine repairmen can, after observing the working equipment, name a node or element that has failed or will soon break down and require repair.It's simple - problems began with the washing machine, it is immediately necessary to call a specialist and a workshop so that he can identify the cause and, if circumstances are successful, carry out repairs on the spot. It seems that everything is easy and simple, and there is no headache. Yes, and in some situations such an act justifies itself.
But there is one caveat - a call to the master's house will cost you a tidy sum. Quite often it happens that paying for repair services is more expensive than buying a new automatic washing machine. It's a shame to pay money in this case, especially when it is not possible to quickly make a new acquisition. But there is one way out - to carry out repairs with your own hands. True, you will have to correctly determine the failure, and the main signs of breakdowns will help in this:
there is no water heating, or it heats up very strongly, violating the set temperature regime;
water enters the tank for a long time, or does not drain at all;
the door does not close tightly, which prevents the washing process from starting;
after the process, the waste water does not go into the sewer, the machine hums a lot;
when the drum rotates, a strong rattle, clang and other extraneous noises are heard;
not a single program starts, because after turning on all the lights on the panel blink. The second option - the program can be set, but not activated;
the washing machine does not turn on from the start button;
the display shows an error code.
If you notice that the washing process takes place in cold water, violating the set program, you can suspect a breakdown of the heating element or the control board. A similar conclusion is reached when water is superheated, almost reaching the boiling point. Most likely, the whole problem is in the board, but the heating element must also be checked.
After starting the washing program, water should begin to flow into the tank, and the intensity of this process depends on the set program. But when you don’t visually see the water in the tank, and the drum rotates with dry things, or after a while the machine just “freezes”, then you should look for one of the following reasons:
there is no water in the plumbing;
clogging of the filter located at the base of the intake hose;
the water intake valve failed;
failure of the control unit.
The BEKO machine is designed in such a way that it will never start washing until the door is closed tightly, and a special blocking sensor sends the necessary signal to the control board. If the hatch does not close at all, or seems to be closed, but the wash has not started, it is necessary to inspect the lock. Perhaps it has broken and cannot hold the door. The second problem is the sensor itself. If it's all about the latch, try lightly pressing on the hatch and try to activate the washing program.
When the washing process is completed, the machine must drain the dirty water and collect fresh water to complete the rinse. This process is accompanied by a hum emitted by the drain pump. The water drains quickly enough, then the machine takes a new amount of liquid. But if some time has passed, and the washer has not drained the waste water and “hangs”, or the pump is buzzing, but the water does not come off, then problems should be sought in:
pump for draining water;
a board responsible for process control;
blockage of the drain hose or sewer pipe.
When the washing machine emits a characteristic clang, rattle and knock during operation, it is quite possible that the bearings have failed, or a foreign object has fallen into the tank, stuck between it and the drum. In this case, the machine should be immediately turned off and all measures taken to fix the problem.
The CMA may not turn on at all, or it may blink all the lights, and turning it on again does not give a positive result. In this case, the problems may be related to:
breakdown of the start button of the machine;
failure of the management unit;
breakage of the power cord.
The best option is when the washing machine does not just refuse to work, but gives a certain error code. With it, you can immediately understand what the problem is.
We will figure out how to repair Beko washing machines on our own.
You should be aware that after washing on a typewriter, the waste water is not clean and transparent. To prevent various small debris and dirt from clogging the pump, a special filter is installed in front of it, which in most cases becomes clogged. The main task is to find this element, which is usually located at the bottom of the machine, under a small hatch or panel.
Further actions should occur in the following sequence:
To cope with such a failure, you will have to partially disassemble the washing machine again. But first it should be noted that in all machines, the thermoelectric heater is among the weakest nodes. In the people it is called by a simple word - TEN. The mineral components in the pipes under the influence of hot water begin to crystallize and accumulate on the heater with ordinary scale. Plaque does not allow heat to pass to the water, so the heating element burns out. But if the water in the pipes is soft, and scale does not appear, or you use special tools, then the heating element is still able to burn out, since it has its own working resource.
In order to make sure exactly what happened to the heating element, you need to get to it. The peculiarity is that in different models it is located both in front and behind. For the first case, the steps are as follows:
remove the front panel of the machine. But first you need to remove the cuff from the door. It is necessary to act carefully so as not to cause damage to it;
two contacts will stick out in front of you with wires connected to them, which must be disconnected;
using a tester, you need to check the resistance. Normally, its value will be from 25 to 30 ohms. In other cases, we can confidently assume that the heating element has failed;
unscrew the nut holding the heating element under the drum from the bolt, carefully pull out the heating element;
we clean the place for its installation from plaque and accumulated debris;
install a new analogue, connect the wires.
If the heater is in good condition, check the temperature sensor located under the top panel.
unscrew the screws and remove the top panel;
the sensor is dismantled along with the detergent tray and the control panel, since all this interferes with getting to the element of interest to us;
having opened access to the sensor, it is necessary to disconnect all wires from it;
check the resistance. Normally, it should be 4.7 kOhm;
the sensor must be kept in a container with warm water - the resistance indicator should decrease. Otherwise, the element must be replaced;
the new sensor is installed in place, all work is performed in the reverse order.