Do-it-yourself gas generator repair no voltage

In detail: do-it-yourself gas generator repair no voltage from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Gasoline generators, even if they are made in China, very reliable with proper care. However, during their operation, small problems can occur, which can usually be quickly fixed by hand. Serious breakdowns, if the owner knows the device and the principle of operation of the generator, will also not be able to disable it for a long time.

If you arrange the possible malfunctions of the gas generator in a kind of rating, you get the following list:

Failure or contamination of the spark plug: difficult or impossible to start, unstable operation.
Clogged carburetor: Difficult starting, excessive fuel consumption, unstable operation under constant load.
Ignition coil failure: no spark, no start.
Starter failures: breakage, cable bite, ratchet destruction.
Violation of valve clearances: difficult start, increased noise during operation.
Brush wear (on synchronous generators) - no output voltage.
Malfunction of the speed controller: floating engine speed, dips when changing the load.
Wear of the bearings of the crankshaft and the rotor of the generator - an increase in the noise of operation, oil leakage.
Wear of the cylinder, piston rings - difficult starting of a cold engine, excessive oil consumption.

It does not take into account breakdowns that are the result of a gross violation of the rules for operating the generator: for example, scuffing on the crankshaft journal due to insufficient oil level, burnout of the generator windings or voltage converter (on inverter gasoline generators) with frequent overloads.

Video (click to play).

In fact, malfunctions of a gasoline generator can be divided into three groups: mechanical, electrical and fuel/ignition system faults.

Difficulty starting the generator, which manifested itself suddenly and is not accompanied by an increase in the noise of the engine, is a clear sign of either deviations in the operation of the carburetor (too lean or rich mixture) or a faulty ignition system (weak or intermittent spark formation). Since the diagnostics of the state of these systems are interconnected, it is combined into one section.

Remove the spark plug and inspect the deposits on its electrodes.

Dense and dry black soot - A sign of a rich mixture (faulty carburetor, clogged air filter);
Oily black soot - a sign of severe wear of the piston rings, oil enters the combustion chamber;
White soot - a sign of running on a lean mixture, it is necessary to check the carburetor.
Brick brown soot - normal for carbureted engines.
Red, green-red soot - a consequence of working on low-quality fuel.

It is easy to check the performance of the ignition system itself because of its extreme simplicity: turn on the ignition, insert a known-good spark plug into the candle cap and, placing it with a skirt on the nearest metal part of the engine, turn the manual starter sharply. If there is no spark, disconnect the ignition switch and the oil level sensor in turn from the ignition coil: if there is still no spark when both elements are disconnected, replace the ignition coil.

If the spark is present and has sufficient strength (white or blue-white), remove the spark plug after several attempts to start. A spark plug flooded with gasoline is a sign of over-enrichment of the mixture, a dry one is a sign of a lack of fuel.

Sometimes, after long storage, the needle and float of the carburetor stick and do not allow gasoline to flow inside. A few times abruptly, but do not hit the float chamber cover very hard and restart.

The most common carburetor malfunction is its contamination. The ingress of dirt into the air channels leads to a re-enrichment of the mixture, in the fuel jets - to depletion. Dirt on the float shut-off needle leads to loss of tightness and overflow of the float chamber, which will be immediately noticeable by fuel leakage from the carburetor.

Consider the maintenance of a carburetor using the example of a Honda GX installed on engines - its design is typical for a gasoline generator.

Remove the float chamber cover (4). Wash it in gasoline or aerosol carburetor cleaner - dirt and deposits accumulate on its bottom.
Do the same with the gas cock sump (22).
Check if the gas valve is blown in the "open" position.
Remove the float shaft (3), remove the float and locking needle (2). Blow out the channel with air.
Blow out the fuel jet (25), emulsion tube (11) and all carburetor passages with an aerosol cleaner or compressed air.
Turn out the adjusting screw (5), blow through its channel. Then turn it all the way in and loosen it, depending on the type of air filter, by 2 (foam rubber, paper filters) - 2.5 turns (cyclone filters).
Assemble the carburetor.

The electrical system of gas generators is quite reliable. Most often, you will encounter two problems: no battery charging on generators with electric start or lack of voltage at the output of the generator.

The lack of battery charging is a consequence of the failure of the rectifier or low-voltage winding. Checking this system with your own hands is simple: connect a 12-volt light bulb in parallel with the low-voltage winding of the generator and start it. A burning light means that the generator itself is working properly, and the rectifier needs to be replaced.
The absence of voltage at the generator output is most often the result of brush wear. Remove them and assess the degree of wear, replace if necessary. If your generator is an inverter type, check if the voltage comes to the input of the converter by connecting a low-power 220 V lamp in parallel with it.

Video about the phased repair of a gas generator

One of the routine maintenance provided for in the operating instructions for gas generators is the control and adjustment, if necessary, of valve clearances. An increase in clearances in excess of the norm will lead to a decrease in engine power, an increase in noise during operation. The most dangerous is the decrease in the gap, since it is not audible during operation, but pinched valves, especially the exhaust, begin to burn rapidly. As a result, the engine starts to work unstably and when the plate burns out, it stops starting.

Valve Adjustment Procedure pretty simple:

Remove all components that prevent the removal of the engine valve cover.
Remove the spark plug.
Remove the valve cover.
Set the crankshaft to the top dead center of the compression stroke by the mark on the flywheel (if any) or by controlling the movement of the piston through the spark plug hole. Do not confuse compression TDC (both valves are closed) with exhaust TDC (exhaust valve closes, intake valve opens).
Loosen the locknuts of the adjusting screws and use a flat feeler gauge inserted between the rocker arm and the end of the valve to set the clearances by turning the screw. Usually, a gap of 0.2 mm is adopted for the exhaust valve, and 0.15 for the inlet valve (check in the operating instructions).
Tighten the locknuts and rotate the crankshaft twice to TDC. If everything is done correctly, at the next dead center both gaps will go away, after another turn they will take on the set value. The gaps that increased after the first revolution are a sign that they were adjusted at the TDC of the exhaust stroke.
Assemble the generator.

Manual starter malfunctions - perhaps most common mechanical problem. Either the cable breaks, or the starter refuses to reel it in due to a broken return spring, or the ratchet does not turn the crankshaft.

Remove the starter by unscrewing the bolts around the perimeter of its casing. By unscrewing the screw (1), the ratchet mechanism can be removed. Check its cams (4) and return springs (5). Then carefully remove the pulley together with the spring (7). Replace broken cable or broken spring, depending on what caused the repair.

When assembling the starter, care must be taken to ensure that the spring remains engaged with the casing and pulley while it is being reinstalled. The rope must be fully wound on the pulley. With the ratchet in place, check the cable travel and how the starter returns to its original position.

Overview and repair of the Einhell STE800 gas generator

Sometimes it happens that the generator needs to be started urgently, and the manual starter failed at that very moment. If necessary, there are several ways to emergency start.The ways listed below unsafe! Remove the starter cover. Below it is a flywheel with a cooling impeller, attracted to the crankshaft with a nut. To make it spin, you can:

After winding the rope around the flywheel, use it in the same way as the rope of a manual starter. Keep in mind that if it catches on the fan blades, when the motor starts, this rope will turn into a whip whipping in all directions, so be careful. Stand so that the rope cannot get on your hands or head.

Low-power engines can also be started manually: turn the crankshaft several times with the ignition off, turning the pulley with your hands in the right direction. In this case, the gas valve must be open, and the damper of the starting device must be closed. After that, turning on the ignition, bring the crankshaft to the compression TDC (you will feel an increase in effort on the flywheel), and then turn the pulley with a sharp jerk so that the spark energy is enough to ignite the mixture.

A powerful cordless drill and a head with an extension cord from the tool kit are a good replacement for an electric starter in a hurry. Clamp the extension in the chuck, put a suitable size head on it and unwind the crankshaft by the flywheel mounting nut. True, in this way it will be possible to start only a low-power generator - for an engine with a large amount of torque, a drill is not enough to turn it on the compression stroke.

A number of malfunctions, alas, are quite difficult to fix with your own hands without having sufficient qualifications: for example, a faulty inverter converter or voltage regulator can only be repaired if you have a good understanding of the principle of operation and circuitry of such devices. Not every owner of a gas generator will take on the engine overhaul, although this is not as difficult as it might seem.In this case, you should contact a specialized repair shop. The coordinates of workshops in your city can be found on the Internet or in stores selling gas tools.In large cities like many workshopsHere are just a few of them:If you are faced with the problem of generating voltage from a gas generator, then this article will be useful to you. Below are common breakdowns and how to solve them.One of the reasons why the generator does not produce voltage may be a disconnected circuit breaker or a corny burnt wire in the outlet. These problems can be attributed to the most harmless.In order to test the voltage, you will need a voltage and frequency tester.1. Make sure that the circuit breaker located on the generator panel is turned up, in some models it is covered with a waterproof protection.2. Unscrew the instrument panel from the generator (4 screws at the edges), remove the protection and look visually at the power wires that go to the sockets. Visually assess their condition. If you see that they are black or unscrewed from the socket, etc., return them to the factory state3. Another diagnostic technique can be used by removing the back cover on the generator. Among all the wires, you will see a terminal block from which the wires exit and enter the control panel (visually they are thicker than the rest), and there you need to check the voltage with a tester (single-phase or three-phase, depending on the generator model). If there is voltage at the generator terminal block, then the problem is not with the generator, but with the control panel.There are several types of generator excitation types in benzo and diesel generators. Consider the armature excitation system using the AVR module (black crescent or rectangular box).How to determine the malfunction of the voltage regulator of the gas generator?To check if the AVR is working:Before checking, carry out a visual inspection if the stator or armature is blackened, the varnish is swollen, etc. It means he burned out. In this case, a rewind is necessary.4. In order for the new ATS not to burn out, it is necessary to simulate its operation on the generator, for this it is necessary to start the generatorand apply a constant voltage to the armature (brushes) 20-30v, depending on the generator, you need to make sure that the voltage in the sockets is 220-230v.When voltage appears, let the generator run for 5 minutes, if smoke does not go out, then the AVR is out of order. Disconnect the AVR completely before simulating.The principle of operation of the ATS is to measure the AC voltage on the stator and output DC voltage to the armature.5. After replacing the ATS, you did not have voltage, which means that the problem is in the closure of the additional winding with the power winding on the stator. In this case, it is necessary to rewind the stator.If you have any questions, please call: 063 202-90-70 097 023-42-42 Buy AVR

We open it, we see wires, fasteners and a plastic box, this is an AVR, it can be made in the form of a crescent or a rectangle. It depends on the model and power of the generator. What is AVR ?, - an automatic volt regulator, in other words, a voltage regulator, it is responsible for excitation and performs the function of stabilizing the generator voltage.
Its performance is diagnosed either by the elimination method, in which case a new AVR is put in its place or by diagnostics in a stationary service.

Image - Do-it-yourself gas generator repair no voltage

Important! When checking the performance of a new AVR on the generator, there is a risk of its failure, in the event of certain malfunctions of the alternator windings.
Many vendors do not support AVR warranties!

In about 80% of cases, when the gas generator does not produce voltage, the cause is a breakdown of the AVR.

The next reason for the lack of voltage may be mechanical damage to the slip rings, this is diagnosed by the device and can be seen during visual inspection.

Next we go to the brushes, immediately note that almost all gasoline generators made in China are brushed, they are popular due to their low price and constantly break down. Therefore, as an example, we take just such a generator.
Brushes can break, wear out, this can be determined visually.

And finally, we turn to the windings, this is a rotor and a stator, there are some nuances here.
It happens that visually you have copper windings in front of you, but in fact it is painted or copper-plated aluminum! For "Chinese generators" this is not uncommon. This significantly reduces both the price and reliability with a resource. In practice, such generators break down after a few hours of operation.

Winding failure is not always determined visually, a reliable answer can only be obtained after diagnosis. Why do generator windings fail?

Here are the main reasons:

- low quality
– current overload
– work with a welding machine (even inverter type)
– ingress of moisture, dust, etc., which leads to mechanical failure or short circuit
- phase imbalance (in case of operation of a three-phase generator with a single-phase load)
- reverse current

All damage listed is repairable. If it is necessary to make a single-phase generator out of a three-phase one, you need to understand it in each specific case, but in general it is possible.
Where are located and what the details we talked about look like, watch the video

I contacted the repair shop.
The “specialists” determined that the inverter needs to be replaced, and its cost is about 70% of the generator itself, they roll out something about 17 thousand rubles.
The data is almost “secret”, the manufacturer does not provide schemes, they change only in blocks ..
As a result, they started to put in another generator, 47 thousand - and there are no problems.
I did not listen to such nonsense ..I found a block diagram on the Internet, everything became clear what and where
opened the switching and control unit of the ignition system
Replacing the diode shunting the ignition coil key transistor - solved the problem.
Broken, a surge of voltage from the coil winding.The principle of operation of a gas generator is simple:
-On a single tube benzyn teche. teche..
-Otherwise, the spark is stolen .. stolen
-Yak. call. published and wrapped up.
Image - Do-it-yourself gas generator repair no voltage

Greetings!
The question is a little off topic, but still.
On the upcoming expedition to the Malminsky Islands, I am offered two generators on the spot to choose from:
1) old Chinese 2 kW (name unknown);
2) inverter FUBAG 2.6 kW.

I would not hesitate to take the usual one, if not for the word “old”.
Inverters, in addition to compactness and weight, have no more advantages over conventional ones.
I remember on the EU-162 expedition we had a Fubag TI-1000 (1 kW) as a spare. So he gave a powerful broadband interference over the network,
used it for domestic purposes only.
There was somewhere a topic in which people described dancing with a tambourine to reduce interference, but such hemorrhoids do not suit me -)-)-)

Maybe there are people on the forum using Fubag TI-2600 to power our equipment?? How is he doing with interference?

Do not worry, take the old man. inverter - oh, you suffer with interference and everything else, the declared power is two times or more lower than the real one.

In general, we don’t throw it away, and we don’t roll cigarettes from the instructions for use, everything is intelligibly described there, incl. and possible malfunctions. Excitation modules are usually not repairable, and also, if it is possible to check the shape of the output voltage, check when buying, the company had two BGs, “Huter” and some other one, they had a specific saw, except for turning on the light bulbs and charging cell phones -were not suitable, no one (practically) has a pure sine wave, at best a steep trapezoid, suitable for our purposes. The inverter has a rectangle. Constant voltage output - native mother, coefficient. ripples are nowhere higher, just connect the battery in parallel. Otherwise, at least the background.

An inverter generator is a mini-power plant that produces the most stable electric current. Such a unit is indispensable when connecting particularly sensitive electric tools.

An inverter generator is a complex technical device. Therefore, during operation, the failure of various elements and assemblies is almost inevitable. The current repair of inverter generators and the replacement of some parts can be done by hand.

Structurally, the inverter consists of two separate parts - a motor and an electric generator. Malfunctions of inverter generators can also be divided into two subgroups:

The main problems here are the lack of fuel or oil, as well as the contamination of the air filter. In the absence of fuel or oxygen, the generator stalls or does not start.

Also, a malfunction may occur due to the lack of an ignition spark. In this case, it is necessary to thoroughly clean and dry the candles.

Video: how to clean the spark plug of an inverter generator

If the generator is not fully loaded, it is worth adjusting the carburetor.

Gas generator won't start Or it starts but dies. This is a fairly common problem. Several factors influence this: spark, fuel supply, gas distribution mechanism, major mechanical damage (such as a hole in the crankcase or a broken connecting rod). sparks may not be due to a burnt coil, cap or candle. It is also possible that the sensor relay or oil sensor fails (cuts off a spark when the oil level is low), and there may be malfunctions of the wiring elements. Fuel supply the fuel system (carburetor, valve, filter, gas tank) is broken, the fuel system is clogged, the elements of the system (carburetor, valve, fuel pump) are faulty. Long downtime of equipment is detrimental to the fuel system. timing is responsible for gas distribution, large gaps and soot on the valves do not allow the engine to work efficiently, and sometimes start up.

The engine smokes. The main reason is the development of the piston group, oil from the crankcase enters the combustion chamber (the piston and cylinder are worn out). Too much oil also produces smoke.

The engine knocks. Development of the crankshaft, connecting rod, bearings.

Engine wedge. Also, due to oil starvation, strong production, soot in the combustion chamber.

Gasoline in the crankcase. Gasoline with oil flows from the crankcase. The carburetor is faulty, most likely the needle does not hold. Causes are wear or dirt in the carburetor.

The gas generator does not produce current. The engine starts normally, but there is no current. The reasons are commonplace, the AVR burned out (the generator does not excite), faulty diodes, wiring problems, problems in the stator or rotor, and individual modules fail (on some generators). On inverter generators, the main fault is the inverter board.

The gas generator produces current, but too strong or weak does not pull or connected devices burn. There are two reasons: the engine does not work at 3000 rpm (3000 rpm).

220 volts), electronic components are faulty (ATS, inverter board, capacitors, diodes)

When connecting appliances, the engine stalls or does not pull - again, the problem with the engine. Something is clogged or out of adjustment.

Video (click to play).

The main principle of the repair of any equipment is troubleshooting by elimination. How do we do it. A generator comes to us and we start checking: