Benzokosa Stihl fs 38 do-it-yourself repair

In detail: lawn mower calm fs 38 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Repair mower Stihl fs 38

Benzokosa Stihl FS 38 (petrol trimmer). Photo. Official guarantee - Online store>

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Stihl lawn mower carburetor repair

Carburetors for lawn mowers, chainsaws, motor pumps, motor cultivators

Benzokosa Stihl - an overview of the models STIHL FS55, STIHL FS38, STIHL FS130, spare parts, video

Trimmer petrol STIHL FS 55

Do-it-yourself repair of lawn mowers Stihl fs 55

During the operation of the “Shtil” gas trimmer, the cutting head sometimes breaks, sometimes the cable breaks. It is recommended to repair such equipment in specialized workshops, but it is usually far from workshops. How to repair the Shtil trimmer with your own hands, let's try to figure it out using the example of repairing a Stihl FS 38 gas mower. : BUTIK clothing store: Children's clothing store: M.Video - Rosmicrocredit: Consumer loans: Work & Education: Events for every taste: Automotive products: Dating & communication.

Video (click to play).

andzej ksevickij: they tag the pakhod with their noses, then it’s clear why they started from the wrong end.

Vanja Kavka: instructions for motokosa calm with detailing who needs it

Kostya Demchenko: why was it necessary to pull out the plastic sleeve from the shaft. it was necessary to pull out the cable, make a latch and insert it from the engine side!

Andrey Vinichuk: sorry for the STIHL FS 55 lawn mower

Andrey Vinichuk: Thanks for the review, the question of the STIHL FS 5 lawn mower, the traction disappeared when the trigger was pressed, the handle was disassembled, the cable is in place, when pressed, the cable does not return to the opposite position, so the cable jumped out near the engine, did not know where it ends, began to disassemble the whitening part of the lawn mower unscrewed several screws, loosening the fastening of the rod, the rod protruded from the engine, noticed the fastening of the cable in the engine and fixed it, put the rod in place, but at startup, it seems to me, the sound became different, again pulled out the rod and noticed a round one at the very end of the rod, and at the end small square.

Repair of a lawn mower Stihl fs 38 repair of a flexible shaft If a chainsaw or lawn mower STARTS BAD). Trimmer Stihl FS 55. Village life. Chinese lawn mowers. Is it worth buying? Husqvarna 240 carburetor repair (Part 1). Oleo Mac sparta. The reason for the overflow of fuel and the lack of idling. Chinese motokosa does not start. Diagnostics and repair. The benzokosa stalls. The Chinese lawn mower does not start. This is interesting. STIHL FS-55 (motokosa) + TEST **ORIGINAL **. Stihl FS 55 not gaining momentum? yes, go to the bath. Why won't the petrol engine start. Husqvarna. Does not work well, stalls. An interesting case. Stihl FS55-repair. STRONG VIBRATION WHEN OPERATING THE POWER CUTTER how to lubricate the boom shaft. Stihl ms 361. Chainsaw won't start. How.

If you notice that after a long work, the cutting element of the STIHL FS 55 brushcutter continues to rotate at idle, then you need to adjust the carburetor.

To do this, turn the adjusting screw LA counterclockwise until the cutting element stops rotating.

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It is human nature to ennoble the place where he spends the lion's share of his time. Residents of cities resort to the services of designers, or they themselves try to change something in their home, buy new furniture, wallpaper, so that when they come home after a hard day, they can have a mental rest and relax in a favorable environment.

Residents of their own homes, located outside the city, have completely different concerns and requirements. It is necessary to mow shrubs, grass, various dead wood in a timely manner, carefully monitor the condition of the plot and garden.

It is clear that this requires somewhat different means of achieving comfort. And here a new brainchild of engineering comes to the fore - motos of the Shtil company.

The history of this German brand dates back to 1926. At the initial stages of its development, the company was engaged in the production and sale of various components for washing and steam machines. It all started, like many others.

I would like to share my experience of using STIHL FS 36 and FS 38 trimmers, maybe it will be useful to someone. My first trimmer FS 36, manufactured in 1999, assembled in the USA, worked for 7 seasons in three areas, burned about 60-70 liters of the mixture (120-140 hours) in native oil in a ratio of 1:40, gasoline 95 Sibneft. There were no problems with the engine, I didn’t even change the candle, I cleaned the foam air filter and that’s it. The FS 36 engine of the 4130 is very interesting - front starter, cantilever crankshaft, single ring piston, carburetor and muffler are located at the rear. At the same time, it has the largest working volume of 30 cc. from trimmers and a tank of 0.5 liters on the side. Very high-torque at medium speeds and the exhaust sound is like that of the Druzhba b / n))) And the body is narrow, which is more convenient to work with. From TO on FS 36 I disassembled, lubricated the flexible shaft with ALPINA gear grease and the tip of the rod, changed the bobbin. The fishing line used was a round 2.4 mm ALPINA, an excellent fishing line, and it was not better at that time on sale. Shtilevskaya 2.4 mm will be worse. For 7 years.

During the operation of the “Shtil” gas trimmer, the cutting head sometimes breaks, sometimes the cable breaks. It is recommended to repair such equipment in specialized workshops, but it is usually far from workshops. How to repair the Stihl trimmer with your own hands, let's try to figure it out using the example of repairing a Stihl FS 38 lawn mower.
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Replacing the sealing ring, the accelerator in the carburetor of the STIHL FS55 lawn mower (benzotrimer) Preparing the fuel mixture for the Stihl fs 55 petrol trimmer. Repairing the STIHL FS 130 lawn mower. The trimmer does not gain momentum, what should I do? PRO lawn mower Stihl FS 55. Petrol mower STIHL FS 55. mower repair stihl FS55. STIHL FS 55 - carburettor adjustment (idle). Don't throw away your blender! Do-it-yourself engraver. How to distinguish a copy of STIHL 180 from the ORIGINAL.

00:41 – Not gaining momentum
01:32 - When pulling the starter from under the finger, a whistle is heard - compression is normal
04:33 – Techie loves cleanliness
05:00 - completely disassemble the carburetor
05:22 - carefully remove the membrane
05:36 - disassemble the primer
05:47 - the membrane of the fuel pump is intact
06:26 - in a yellow bottle - technical alcohol
07:04 - the needle valve works
07:10 - in the carburetor itself - the second filter in the form of a fine mesh. Was jammed.
07:39 - removed and cleaned the needle valve for reliability
08:46 - blow the jet
10:00 - assemble the needle valve back
11:00 - we twist the jet into place
12:33 - the first time I installed the membrane incorrectly - then I took it apart and.

Lawn care is simple: it is enough to water the grass, not to allow a variety of weeds to appear and to cut it periodically. And if the first two works do not cause any particular difficulties, then there are difficulties with a haircut. A scythe is traditionally used to cut grass, but this is a tool that requires experience and considerable experience to handle.

Choosing Stihl lawn mowers

Shtil lawn mowers can help out.

Lawn lawn strife.If there is a small well-groomed lawn next to the flower garden in front of the windows of the dacha, sometimes a manual mechanical tool is enough. Although, judging by the reviews, gardeners, nevertheless, prefer an electric tool. But if the site has just been acquired and the flower bed still needs to be formed, or when the cottage was “inherited”, and the lawns are in a deplorable state, light equipment is indispensable.

Good morning. Please help me figure out the fs 38 trimmer - I got it not working, namely the drive shaft does not turn the shank. During disassembly, there were 2 bushings in the pipe and a drive shaft, from above the shank was fixed with a bolt through the pipe. I read here about some kind of retaining ring. I understand that when you press the gas, the drive shaft flies out and does not turn the shank, help me figure it out

Kain81, It is necessary to replace the shank assembly, the article 4140-640-1402 costs 300-400r, the lock washer will not help. Make sure there is no crack on the stem where the shank is screwed on and do not forget to lubricate it before installation and every 25 hours of operation with grease for gearboxes
BigMazzy, 0.1-0.3mm gap from flywheel magnets

MStil wrote:
BigMazzy, 0.1-0.3mm clearance from flywheel magnets

Kain81 wrote:
Good morning. Please help me figure out the fs 38 trimmer - I got it not working, namely the drive shaft does not turn the shank. During disassembly, there were 2 bushings in the pipe and a drive shaft, from above the shank was fixed with a bolt through the pipe. I read here about some kind of retaining ring. I understand that when you press the gas, the drive shaft flies out and does not turn the shank, help me figure it out

All figured out. The upper part of the pipe was bent and did not fully insert and was not clamped with a screw. Therefore, he poured out the drive shaft

Good morning!
Connoisseurs, tell me what the problem is: gasoline stopped flowing into the so-called “nipple” on the carburetor. .k the trimmer worked only at idle, as soon as you press the gas it stalled immediately.

Dear members of the forum, please help with the repair! I’ll start in order: I gave the trimmer to my neighbor to mow the grass on the lawn for a day. There was a full tank of gasoline. .It turned out that he poured a mixture in which there was 2 times more oil than necessary. (Instead of 100ml-200ml). But it turned out later, and before that he climbed the carburetor, disassembled it, screwed something up and now gasoline it doesn’t enter the nipple on the carburetor at all. Knowledgeable people help, otherwise it’s a long way to go to the service, and it’s unjustifiably expensive there.

scham wrote:
he climbed the carburetor, disassembled it, screwed something up and now gasoline does not enter the nipple on the carburetor at all.

I don't have a 38. But I'm trying to guess. I don’t know if the 38th filter is in the tank, then the hose, Well, I don’t know about the carb itself, I didn’t climb it.

fuel tank filter is new.

scham, See the hose. Not pinched, or vice versa, is it not damaged, it can suck air. Then it won't load either. If everything is fine, I'll try to contact a specialist about the carba.

valerich, thank you! The hose, most likely, is also in order, because if you remove the nipple and the fuel pump, then gasoline flows. It seems to me that when he disassembled the carburetor, he could damage the gasket (there is a slight bend).

valeric wrote:
I'll try to contact a specialist about the carba.

Already applied. I think he will sign off.

scham wrote:
he climbed the carburetor, disassembled it, screwed something up

Go, torture him, what exactly did you do with the carburetor - did you take it off, which covers did you open (if you did)
Which of the screws twisted and how much.
So, without this information, nothing can be said at all.

Oh, and also be sure to check the exhaust pipe on the muffler - if it is clogged with soot.

And in general - hand the scythe to a neighbor and let him go to the service. After all, what is the habit of taking other people's things and poking around in them

. I took it, it didn’t work properly - give it back and say that it doesn’t work.
In short, okay, let's get some information, let's think. I won't croak for now, maybe everything will work out.
I will drop in periodically, although I am sitting on a very frail Internet.

Olegych wrote:
And in general - hand the scythe to a neighbor and let him go to the service. After all, what is the habit of taking other people's things and poking around in them

Stopudovo agree. Did you climb? Now let him take it and repair it to the state in which he took it.

Olegych wrote:
And in general - hand the scythe to a neighbor and let him go to the service. After all, what is the habit of taking other people's things and poking around in them

yes, I would have done that, but the person helped many times in different situations, and so it would not be very nice of me.
says that he removed the upper part, where the nipple, pump, gasket and membrane. He turned the fuel supply screw, but then set it as it was.

I could mix up the membrane with the gasket in places.
Remove the top cover, lay out the parts in order, take pictures - we'll see.

Olegych Already checked, first the gasket, then the membrane.
I think that it makes sense to only take a picture of the gasket, because there is a small room on it.

scham wrote:
Already checked, first the gasket, then the membrane.
I think that it makes sense to only take a picture of the gasket, because there is a small room on it.

It's all about the pump piston, it's in the carburetor. You need to remove the throttle, carefully! The piston will fly out, remove the spring. You will lubricate the piston with an auto-lock, and you will not plant it to the end, so that the piston does not interfere with the movement of the throttle shaft. plant deep, close the channels.

I'm sorry that no one could help you)) I'm on the forum for the first time)))

scham, if you have questions about the order of assembly of the carburetor or adjustment, write! I will answer)))

scham wrote:
It turned out that he poured a mixture in which there was 2 times more oil than necessary.

this is not a problem, the problem may still be in the quality of the fuel itself. What kind of gasoline, oil? How many days has it been active (how many days have passed since fuel preparation)? People, pour always fresh fuel! When oil enters gasoline, a chemical reaction takes place (decomposition of oil in gasoline) and the survivability of the fuel depends on external factors.

scham, damn it) check the muffler before that. Maybe he's busted?
” > - if anything, knock!

Uncle Syoma °, tell me what clearance should be between the roter and the stater?

Post #126
. “It works at idle, but when you give it gas it stalls.”

Same problem.
If you have time to splash something like Car Cleaner (engine cleaner) into the “drawbar” with a fully open throttle, it screams at the fullest! Even WD 40 passes.
It is clear that there is not enough fuel for full power. By analogy with an autocarb, the main dosing system does not work. Like that's what it's called.
This thing is a complete layman, but I would like to figure it out! My engine has been lying idle since 07.2013 - something must have gone sour.

The fuel is fresh, only from the column. The oil is correct and 1:50. Muffler dry and clean. Start with 1-2 attempts.

Multik_off wrote:
It's all about the pump piston, it's in the carburetor. You need to remove the throttle, carefully! The piston will fly out, remove the spring. You will lubricate the piston with an auto-lock, and you will not plant it to the end, so that the piston does not interfere with the movement of the throttle shaft. plant deep, close the channels.

Thanks for the tip - how to fix the problem, but - where and how is this piston, throttle, etc.

Where can I get acquainted with the theory of this carb? Description, principle of operation of its systems.
Where to get hold of the explosion-scheme of this carb (well, at least similar)?
Possible faults and solutions?

I would be very grateful for any information: literature, links, videos, etc.

I’ll share the diagrams, but I don’t know how “they stuff pavidlo into caramels”

Dad-L wrote:
Where can I get acquainted with the theory of this carb? Description, principle of operation of its systems.

As far as I know. On such a technique, walbro type carburetors (or ZAMA, of the same type) are used. There are a lot of diagrams and descriptions of walbro on the internet.

I was soaring with this question from work from the oh-oh-oh-oh-some Internet - it was painfully unbearable: the motor was not working, an infection!
I came home - a big “coffin” with a “thick” cable quickly gave out a lot of useful information.
Sinus, valerich - thanks for the help!
Now I will dig more specifically, but if there are questions, I will be back!
===============================================================================
It's like a conversation between two or more people in some language (in this case, technical): communication is possible only if you know the language! So, I will teach.

Dad-L wrote:
I have questions - I'll be back!

Message #1 KimIV » Sep 22, 2017, 09:12

A colleague at work shared his misfortune, the drive of the mowing head was broken at his trimmer. More precisely, not the drive itself, but the tip of the pipe in which this drive sits. As a result, the mowing head began to dangle strongly, vibrate, touch the protective cover, wear it out and wear itself out. Well, he asked me to come up with something, somehow strengthen the structure. Here is the patient himself, without an engine, so as not to carry extra weight.

But the broken place, even a crack formed there.

My colleague and I previously discussed repair options and agreed that I would cut off the tip of the cracked rod (pipe) and machine out the intermediate sleeve. I found a suitable piece of circle 30 and grind it from the outside to a diameter of 25.5 mm.

I try on the mounting clamp and protective cover.

Then deep drilling for the entire length of the drill and boring to a depth of 46 mm to a diameter of 23 mm. In reality, I approached this diameter for a long time and tediously, first shooting ten, and then 5 acres. Why long and boring? Because the tube in which the drive was sitting is broken, that is, it is now of an increased diameter and cannot be a standard. And the drive itself in cross section has a triangular shape and I could not figure out how to measure the diameter of such a shape.

Trying out the drive. The landing was quite tight. Inserted and removed with effort.

I turn the workpiece over and bore the part that will be inserted and fastened inside the rod instead of the cut piece with a crack. I first cut off 50 mm, respectively, I made the wide part of the sleeve also 50 mm long, and the narrow one, which will be inserted, was made 25 mm long. In addition, at the same stage, I expanded the central hole for the flexible cable with a 8.1 mm drill.

Inserted tightly. I released the sleeve from the lathe chuck without removing it from the rod, drilled a hole with a diameter of 5.2 mm for the M6 thread. And here is the result. The colleague is happy!

Annotation on adjusting the carburetor of the lawn mower.

The trimmer does not belong to complex household appliances, therefore most of its breakdowns are of a mechanical nature and are quite successfully eliminated with their own hands. Even if the engine fails for severe reasons - damage to the piston ring, for example, the repair comes down to replacing the part.

And even with a relatively conventional design, such a part of the device as a carburetor needs to be adjusted.

Carburetor - a module of the power system, in which liquid fuel and air are mixed before being supplied to the engine cylinders. Gasoline lawn mower adjustment carburetor. Depending on the tool and its mode of operation, mixing and feeding are adjusted appropriately.

The device of the carburetor of the lawn mower is the same for almost all cases. Adjusting the carburetor of a Chinese lawn mower. It belongs to the category of float devices. The latter provide constant characteristics of the finished consistency.

This is how the module works.

Air enters the body of the tube with an air damper. Lawn mower matrix carburetor adjustment. The latter increases or decreases the air flow depending on its own position.
In the area where the hole for supplying gasoline is formed, the tube has a narrowing - a diffuser. Here the flow rate increases.
Fuel from the float chamber through the jet is fed into the tube. The float level determines the amount of fuel supplied. Because the pressure in the chamber is normal, and in the tube it is low due to the greater rarefaction of the air, gasoline is sucked through the jet.
The accelerated air flow picks up the fuel and atomizes it, forming an air-fuel mixture of suitable density.
The mixture is sucked into the cylinder through a pipeline.

The more open the air damper in the tube, the higher the density of the air flow, which means that more fuel enters the cylinder. Motokosa stiga handle adjustment. Setting the carburetor of the lawn mower comes down to setting such a ratio of dampers at which the density of the fuel consistency becomes good.

Debugging the carburetor is certainly done during the manufacture of the apparatus. Benzokosa texas 330 carburetor adjustment. Usually, the owners will find out about the need to adjust the fuel supply with their own hands only after rather severe breakdowns, in the process of correcting which, the module was removed and, for example, cleaned.

Signs of a failure in the settings are the following:

it starts, but the engine stalls here - since the engine can only work when a certain amount of gasoline is supplied, with very “poor” fuel, in other words, the supply channel is blocked, the engine will stop;
very high fuel consumption, a lot of exhaust gases - the result of incomplete combustion of the consistency. In this case, on the contrary, there is a lot of fuel and the mixture comes out extremely dense.

Trimmer Stihl FS 55 Motokosa Does not develop speed, stalls, sorting out carburetor Thank you for your views.

Trim carburetor adjustment Stihl FS 55 in the video we perform in order to adjust the idle speed.The carburetor of the lawn mowers Stihl, Makita, Husqvarna and others is adjusted using adjusting screws. Sometimes the prerequisite for disorganization of work is a violation of fixation - due to vibration or damage to the protective cap. Such a breakdown can be found by simply trying to turn the screw a little: if the fixation is not rigid, it is worth checking the setting. Image - Benzokosa calm fs 38 do-it-yourself repair

Module adjustment does not apply to repair and replacement of spare parts is not required. In this case, the lawn mower carburetor repair kit will not come in handy.

There are three screws for debugging:

L - is regulated first, because it is responsible for the supply of fuel at low revs;
H - it is responsible for the supply of gasoline at high speeds, as well as for fuel consumption and temperature;
T - with its help, idle debugging is carried out.

There are options, usually the carburetor of a Chinese lawn mower, when only one screw remains on the body for debugging - for the idle option. Lawn mower valve adjustment. This does not mean that the module is configured automatically - this means that it will be problematic to carry out even such a type of repair as debugging. In the photo - adjusting the carburetor of a Chinese lawn mower.

If there is a tanometer, and if the recommended RPM values are indicated in the product passport, the correction can be made more accurate, focusing not on hearing, but on the readings of the device.

6 comments on the entry &Adjustment and repair of the carburetor of the lawn mower&

Please clarify. In the adjustment section, item 5, screw L error? Should read screw A? Thanks to.

tell me the initial position of the screws H L LA

PLEASE PROVIDE ORIGINAL POSITION

tell me the initial position of the screws H L LA

Trimmer gearbox - malfunctions, causes and remedies

Trimmer gear (bow cutter gearbox, brush cutter gearbox) is a mechanical device located at the bottom of the trimmer (blow cutter or brush cutter) and designed to transmit torque from the engine to the cutting equipment at an angle of 30 °, ensuring the operation of the cutting equipment in a horizontal plane (parallel to the ground surface) , as well as reducing the angular velocity and increasing the torque of the output shaft in a ratio of 1:1.40 (for example, if the engine is running at 12 thousand rpm, then the knife will rotate at a speed of 8.6 thousand rpm).

Malfunction - the trimmer gearbox gets very hot.
The malfunction of the gearbox of the lawn mower and the gearbox of the lawn mower is the same as that of the trimmer.
Causes malfunctions - lack of lubrication in the gearbox, unsuitable lubrication or a new gearbox that has not been rolled in (when the parts have not yet been worn in).
Repair do-it-yourself trimmer - add lubricant to the trimmer gearbox, replace the lubricant or run the trimmer in a gentle mode (work out three tanks of fuel at low loads and with periodic stops for natural cooling).
Malfunction trimmer - knocking, play and jamming during rotation of the shaft of the trimmer gearbox, lawn mowing gearbox or brushcutter gearbox.
Causes malfunctions - the destruction of one of the bearings in the trimmer gearbox due to lack of lubrication in the gearbox, inappropriate lubrication, severe operating conditions of the trimmer, damage to the anthers on the bearings during their installation.
Repair do-it-yourself trimmer - order bearings from the dealer and replace them (there are two or three sealed bearings) - for details, see below "How to disassemble the trimmer gearbox / brush cutter gearbox / brush cutter gearbox".
Malfunction trimmer - the gearbox staggers or flies off the trimmer pipe.
Causes malfunctions - mechanical damage to the gearbox housing - for example, if a piece of the housing breaks off when a heavy knife hits heavy metal or stone (or if the gearbox housing is damaged, for example, with a hammer during repairs).
Repair do-it-yourself trimmer - replace the gearbox housing. Or, if a small piece has broken off, make a metal clamp that tightens the fracture site.
Repairing a lawn mower with your own hands is similar to repairing a trimmer.
Malfunction trimmer - the reducer on the pipe is not clamped. As practice shows, the gearbox does not fly off the pipe at all, but theoretically it can fly off the pipe along with a rotating knife.
A malfunction of a lawn mower is similar to a trimmer.
Causes trimmer malfunctions - wear of the gearbox seat on the pipe (the aluminum of the pipe under the gearbox has worn out).
Repair do-it-yourself trimmer - wind the cloth tape on the pipe under the gearbox or replace the pipe.
Malfunction trimmer blade - the trimmer knife has completely stopped rotating (with a characteristic metallic sound) or stops rotating at high loads (with a hard gnawing sound).
Causes malfunctions - wear of the teeth on the bevel gear in the trimmer gearbox.
Repair do-it-yourself trimmer - replace pairs of bevel gears (a pair is replaced) in the gearbox - for details, see below "How to disassemble the trimmer gearbox / lawn mowing gearbox / lawn mower gearbox".

In order to disassemble the trimmer gearbox, it is necessary.

Remove the reducer from the pipe by loosening the two pinch bolts under the reducer.
Wash the gearbox with a brush, e.g. in petrol without oil, and dry.
Bring the ends of the retaining ring together with round nose pliers and remove it.
Remove the second retaining ring in the same way.
Then it is necessary to strongly heat the body of the trimmer gearbox, brush cutter gearbox or brush cutter gearbox with an industrial (technical) hair dryer at an outlet air temperature of 600 ° C.
Then, with strong blows of a wooden block on the upper part of the gearbox housing, knock out the driven shaft with the bearing and gear (first you should try to knock out the bearings without heating). It is necessary to hit only with a wooden block, since a metal one, for example, with a hammer, can break the case.
In the same way, we also remove the drive shaft with the bearing and gear (we strongly heat up the place where the bearings sit and hit the shaft coaxially with a wooden block, knock out the shaft with two bearings and gear). How to disassemble the trimmer gearbox, lawn mower gearbox and lawn mower gearbox. In order not to heat up, you can try using a remover.

When using a gas trimmer Calm sometimes the cutting head breaks, sometimes the cable breaks. Repaired.

Repair of lawn mowers Stihl fs 38 flexible shaft repair.

Assembling the trimmer gearbox is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly (assembly after purchase and replacement of failed parts). Assembling the gearbox is much easier than disassembling - everything is assembled, literally, with your fingers.Sometimes you need to lightly tap something, install the retaining rings and check whether the driven shaft is spinning by hand.

If you decide replace trimmer gearbox not original, then in a new gearbox, you should pay attention to the diameter of the pipe for which the gearbox is intended (usually 25.4 mm or 26 mm), the diameter of the drive shaft (usually 8 mm), the square size of the drive shaft (usually 5 mm or a star on 9 teeth) and fastening the protection on the gearbox, as well as on the nut (with a left-hand thread, usually M10x1.25).

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Don't buy champion trimmers full of Chinese shit, trash them and suck the Chinese. That's so fucking, so that everything is in the mind.

I have a champion trimmer t 541 for 10 years. In a year, hay mows for 2 cows, plus (at home 1 hectare of land) weeds and weeds. saw everything. Super. Maybe they did it better before.

and I use my trimmer to harvest firewood in the landing - it freely fells and then crushes the trees!

don't write nonsense
in 2011 I bought a champion t336 for 5200 rubles, 32.6 cubic meters, trouble-free equipment, for all the time I changed only a candle after 4 seasons for prevention, the old one was working. All summer at work, mows huge amounts of grass, mows everything, oats, potato tops. Fuel consumption is scanty, I lubricate the trimmer gearbox with lithol. Against the background of the rest of China, even a larger volume, just a song. Of course, the piston has already begun to squat, on the trail. I plan to buy a more powerful champion for the season, and since the best equipment for its price, I don’t see the point in overpaying for calm twice

Champion T334 purchased in 2009. Koshu, of course, only with fishing line, the knife vibrates too much. As they say, it starts with half a turn. After the winter, fill in gasoline with oil, damper, suck in gasoline and .... forward. He laid the weeds one and a half meters high, of course, several times. And in 2016 I learned that it is necessary to lubricate the gearbox ... because the teeth have worn out :) New in Tyoply Stan - 1000 rubles. And back at work. So with my trimer, I'm definitely lucky.

I also have a champion t 226 line herachit everything starts up almost immediately 2 seasons 10-12 refuelings already normal flight) assembled soundly

It’s clear how to fix it, but where to buy a conical pair?

Hello dear friends! My last chainsaw repair post collected a lot of questions, a lot of answers and 150+ subscribers. I continue to dilute the repair community with a benzo tool. In one comment, they asked to show how to change the oil seals on a Stihl lawn mower, I just had a Stihl FS55 for repair, the instructions are also suitable for a Stihl FS38 / 44.

So, let's go, the preface: the lawn mower was brought to MOT before the coming season, it started up, worked, and only occasionally during long work there were not big problems, she began to live her life, the gas handle did not obey, but soon it passed and she worked again .

1. Carry out maintenance (replacement of filters, spark plugs, lubrication of bearings, cleaning, purging, adjustment) - I will not show how this is done, everyone should know this.

2. Find the defect that causes the “own life” of the lawn mowers.

Oil with dust was visible near the carburetor and under the covers, the carburetor and the intake tract were fully operational. So we will get to the seals. To do this, remove the starter.

Then we unscrew the screws at the bottom of the braid, which are marked.

Remove the top and bottom covers. Next, we take a torx of a suitable size, insert it into the clutch drum and unscrew it, the thread is right-handed, that is, ordinary.

Next come the clutch pads, if there is no pneumatic wrench, then we carefully clamp the flywheel in a vice through wooden spacers, and unscrew it with a gas wrench, the thread is right.

If the flywheel itself has not flown off, then we take a mallet and slightly knock it out, it can be easily removed, from the starter side, with a head on the 13 unscrewed starter ratchet, right-hand thread.

So we got to the seals, you can see oil and dust around them, which means the seals are leaking, the client said to change.

We take out the old oil seals with a thin screwdriver, clean everything, take new oil seals (size 12 * 22 * 7.3, these are on China braids with a volume of 26 and 33 cm3), lubricate with oil inside and out, fill with a suitable head.

In total it should turn out like this.

We collect everything in the reverse order. Started, warmed, gasped, works like a clock.

So, let's sum up the price of maintenance and repair:

Fuel filter replacement 50r

Carburetor cleaning and adjustment, gearbox lubrication 300r

I don’t praise the calm, but I asked how long this scythe has been with the owner and how much he mows it, the scythe is 5-6 years old, harvests hay in the summer, mows it 3-4 days a week, burns up to 5 tanks of fuel with interruptions only for refueling.

Trimmer gearbox - malfunctions, prerequisites and troubleshooting methods

Trimmer gear (bow cutter gearbox, brush cutter gearbox) is a mechanical device located at the bottom of the trimmer (blow cutter or brush cutter) and designed to transfer torque from the motor to the cutting equipment at an angle of 30 °, ensuring the operation of the cutting equipment in a horizontal plane (parallel to the ground surface) , also reducing the angular velocity and increasing the torque of the output shaft in a ratio of 1: 1.40 (for example, if the engine runs at 12 thousand rpm, then the knife will spin at a speed of 8.6 thousand rpm).

Malfunction — The trimmer gearbox gets very hot.
The malfunction of the gearbox of the lawn mower and the gearbox of the lawn mower is the same as that of the trimmer.
Causes malfunctions - lack of lubrication in the gearbox, unsuitable lubrication or a new gearbox that has not been rolled in (when the parts have not yet become used).
Repair do-it-yourself trimmer - add lubricant to the trimmer gearbox, change the lubricant or run the trimmer in a gentle mode (work out three tanks of fuel at low loads and with repeated stops for natural cooling).
Malfunction trimmer - knocking, free play and jamming during rotation of the shaft of the trimmer gearbox, brushcutter gearbox or brushcutter gearbox.
Causes malfunctions - destruction of 1 of the bearings in the trimmer gearbox due to lack of lubrication in the gearbox, inadequate lubrication, stringent trimmer operation criteria, damage to the anthers on the bearings during their installation.
Repair do-it-yourself trimmer - order bearings from the dealer and change them (there are two or three sealed bearings) - for details, see below "How to disassemble the trimmer gearbox / lawn mower gearbox / lawn mower gearbox".
Malfunction trimmer - the gearbox staggers or flies off the trimmer pipe.
Causes malfunctions - mechanical damage to the gearbox housing - for example, if a piece of the housing breaks off with a strong blow with a knife on heavy metal or stone (or if the gearbox housing is destroyed, for example, with a hammer during repair).
Repair do-it-yourself trimmer - change the gearbox housing. Or, if a small piece has broken off, make an iron clamp that tightens the fracture site.
Repairing a lawn mower with your own hands is similar to repairing a trimmer.
Malfunction trimmer - the reducer on the pipe is not clamped. As practice shows, the gearbox does not fly off the pipe at all, but at a theoretical level, it can fly off the pipe together with a rotating knife.
A malfunction of a lawn mower is similar to a trimmer.
Causes trimmer malfunctions - wear of the gearbox landing site on the pipe (the aluminum of the pipe under the gearbox has worn out).
Repair do-it-yourself trimmer - wind the cloth tape on the pipe under the gearbox or change the pipe.
Malfunction trimmer blade - the trimmer blade has completely stopped spinning (with the corresponding iron sound) or stops spinning under heavy loads (with a hard gnawing sound).
Causes malfunctions - wear of the teeth on the bevel gear in the trimmer gearbox.
Repair do-it-yourself trimmer - change pairs of bevel gears (a pair is replaced) in the gearbox - for details, see below "How to disassemble the trimmer gearbox / brushcutter gearbox / brushcutter gearbox".

In order to disassemble the trimmer gearbox, you need.

Remove the reducer from the pipe by loosening the two pinch bolts under the reducer.
Wash the gearbox with a brush, e.g. in petrol without oil, and dry it.
Using round nose pliers, bring the ends of the retaining ring together and pull it out.
Remove the 2nd circlip in the same way.
Then you need to warm up the body of the trimmer gearbox, brush cutter gearbox or brush cutter gearbox with a factory (technical) hair dryer at an outlet air temperature of 600 ° C.
After that, with strong blows of a wooden block on the upper part of the gearbox housing, knock out the driven shaft with the bearing and gear (at first it is worth trying to knock out the bearings without heating). You need to hit only with a bar made of wood, because with an iron hammer, for example, you can break the body.
In the same way, we also remove the drive shaft with the bearing and gear (we heat up the place where the bearings sit and hit the shaft coaxially with a wooden block, knock out the shaft with 2 bearings and gear). How to disassemble the trimmer gearbox, lawn mower gearbox and lawn mower gearbox. In order not to heat up, you can try using a remover.

When using a gas trimmer Calm from time to time the cutting head breaks, it happens that the cable breaks. Repaired.

Repair of lawn mowers Stihl fs 38 flexible shaft repair.

Assembling the trimmer gearbox is done in the order of reverse disassembly (assembly after purchase and replacement of failed parts). Assembling the gearbox is much easier than disassembling - everything is assembled, practically, with your fingers. From time to time, you need to lightly tap something, install the retaining rings and check whether the driven shaft rotates by hand.

If you decide replace trimmer gearbox if it’s not unique, then in a new gearbox you should pay attention to the diameter of the pipe for which the gearbox is intended (usually 25.4 mm or 26 mm), the diameter of the drive shaft (usually 8 mm), the size of the square of the drive shaft (usually 5 mm or a star 9 teeth) and fastening the protection on the gearbox, also on the nut (with a left-hand thread, often M10x1.25).

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Do not buy trimmers favorite full of Chinese shit, trash them, and suck the Chinese. That's so fucking, so that everything is intelligible.

I have had a favorite trimmer t 541 for 10 years. In a year, hay mows for 2 cattle, plus (at home 1 hectare of land) weeds and weeds. I saw everything. Super. Maybe they did better before.

and I use my trimmer to harvest firewood in the landing - it freely fells and later crushes the trees!

don't write nonsense
in 2011 I bought a favorite t336 for 5200 rubles, 32.6 cubic meters, non-failure equipment, I always changed only a candle after 4 seasons for prevention, the ancient one was working. All summer at work, mows large amounts of grass, mows everything, oats, potato tops. The fuel consumption is small, I lubricate the trimmer gearbox with lithol. Against the background of the rest of China, even a larger volume, just a song. Naturally, the piston has already begun to squat, on the trail. season I plan to purchase a more powerful favorite, and since the best equipment for its cost, I don’t see the point in overpaying for calm twice more

Champion T334 purchased in 2009. Koshu obviously only with fishing line, from the knife it vibrates very much. As they say, it starts with half a turn. After the winter, fill in gasoline with oil, damper, suck in gasoline and .... forward. He laid the weeds one and a half meters high, obviously for a couple of times. And in 2016 I found out that I needed to lubricate the gearbox ... because the teeth were worn out :) New in Tyoply Stan - 1000 rubles. And back at work. So with my trimer, I definitely got lucky.

I also have a favorite t 226 fishing line herachit everything in order starts almost immediately 2 seasons 10-12 refueling is already a normal flight) assembled with high quality

Video (click to play).

It’s clear how to fix it, but where to buy a conical pair?

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