Chainsaw makita dcs34 DIY repair

In detail: Makita chainsaw dcs34 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Today I tried to work a little with a Makita DCS34 chainsaw. The saw stalled during operation. I pushed on the primer, but the fuel is not supplied to it. I thought the filter was clogged - no. The filter is clean. When I press the primer, air enters the gas tank, but the fuel is not sucked out of the gas tank. When I removed the top cover, I found a thin pipe, similar to the one that was lowered into the gas tank, which was probably connected somewhere. It seems to me that there is fuel on it, where it should go from somewhere, but I cannot connect it back, I can not crawl. As I understand it, you need to disassemble the saw and connect the branch pipe, but how to disassemble it? Before that, I had nothing to do with saws.

Chainsaw primer working principle - Pump fuel through the carburetor. The chain is built like this: Fuel goes through the fuel line to the carburetor, and from the carburetor to the primer, from the primer back to the tank. Accordingly, the flown-off pipe was connected to the carburetor. As a rule, the place is quite easily accessible, it is enough to remove the protective covers or the casing.

How to install a tire and chain on a Makita 35 chainsaw?

Using the allen key supplied with the chain saw, proceed as follows. Place the chain saw on a stable surface and follow the steps below to install the bar and chain. Release the chain brake by pulling the hand guard in the direction of the arrow. Unscrew the locknuts. Pull off the sprocket guard. Return the chain tension to the left (counterclockwise) so that the chain tensioner bar is below the threaded pin. Install the tire. Make sure the bar of the chain tensioner fits into the hole in the bar. Lift the chain over the sprocket. Pull the chain around the end sprocket of the Makita chainsaw bar in the direction of the arrow. Replace the sprocket guard. Lift the saw chain over the chain stop. Tighten the locknuts securely by hand.

Video (click to play).

Chainsaw Makita DCS34. It looks like it was used a little carelessly - I had to replace the tire, there are signs of overheating of the clutch basket. Otherwise, it works fine and cuts well enough. The problem is this: it starts up normally on a cold one and works fine on idle. after warming up and several cuts when the gas is released, the idle speed becomes greater than when working before sawing (after starting the saw works with full warming up at normal speed for a long time without problems until you gas a couple of times, which, in my opinion, leads to a slight rubbing of the clutch discs baskets - there is still not enough force to rotate the chain, and as a result the clutch basket heats up. Like this. Help with advice, who will say what?

Check all throttle controls for binding. If the throttle stick is forcibly pushed back, the rpm should drop.

Chainsaw Makita 34 - a problem with the oil pump, tired of changing. What to do?

The problem may not be the pump, but the oil or pump drive. The drive is a metal spiral on the crankshaft shaft. If the distance between the turns is violated or a fragment has fallen, then the teeth will wear out on the next pump.

The problem with starting was found on the Makita 35 chainsaw. It is very difficult to turn the saw with the starter, there is not enough revolutions to start, that is, I pull, but it runs very hard. He turned out the candle, then it scrolled perfectly. He wrapped the candle, the saw started up. Worked, drowned out - do not scroll again.It seems that I'm not scrolling a 45-cube engine, but at least a 1.5-liter car engine. I'll take it to the service, here is the German assembly. Does her clutch wedge? Nobody has encountered such a malfunction?

Not a grip. The construct is such that it does not affect. Perhaps oil was poured into gasoline.

How to properly preserve the Makita DCS 34 chainsaw for long-term storage, for example, for the winter, is it better to drain the chain oil?

For stoppages longer than 3 months: Empty the fuel tank in a well-ventilated place and clean it. Leave the carburetor running until the fuel is completely consumed, otherwise the membranes in the carburetor may stick together. Remove the saw chain and guide bar, clean and spray with protective oil. Thoroughly clean the tool, especially the ribs
cylinder and air filter. When using ecological chain oil, fill the oil tank completely. Store the device in a dry and safe place. Everything that is in the instructions and no pouring oil into the CPG.

Chainsaw Makita DCS34. Last week I started sawing - I made 2 cuts - it stalled until I changed the candle and started it. Candle in soot, all black. Before that, I changed the candle once a year (home use). After that, it began - the candle is poured, the saw will not start. He took off the carburetor, washed it in gasoline, blew it - it started up for 5 minutes, then the same thing. Now the chain saw does not start at all, the candle is flooded, there is no flash in the cylinder at all. My personal opinion is something like this - either the wear of the rubber gaskets in the carburetor, which act as valves; or an ignition malfunction - a shift in the ignition timing is possible. The compression is normal, like a new one, the spark is excellent, gasoline is supplied to the carburetor, the carburetor is clean, the H and L channels are blown out, the adjusting screws are not broken off. What could be?

In a chain saw, the ignition timing is not regulated, only the gap between the magnet on the flywheel and the coil is set, if there is a spark, then the ignition has nothing to do with, except in rare cases when the coil itself is buggy. The carburetor is more likely to be faulty. The most sensible advice can only be given by a competent and honest master after diagnosis.

The spark on the Makita chainsaw is gone. Where can I get instructions for setting up the ignition? Or can someone tell me how to do this?

If there is no spark, while the wires from the magneto do not short to ground and the spark plug is known to be in good condition, then the magneto needs to be replaced.

We bought a Makita DCS34 chainsaw. There were some questions. Does it make sense to install a 45 bar and a 3/8 chain with this engine? Is engine running-in required? What is the continuous running time of this saw's motor?

Running the engine in a chainsaw is not required. To put or not to put more tire on the saw is your own business. This saw will pull a 45 cm tire. Continuous engine running time is limited by the volume of the fuel tank.

The new Makita 35 chainsaw has worked a couple of times and will no longer start. There is a spark. After attempts to start, gasoline is poured out of the muffler (it does not drip, but pours out). There are no buttons for pumping gasoline. Sawdust dust was found under the air filter. Is the carburetor clogged with sawdust, or is it a more serious carburetor breakdown? I saw a new one, after all! Advise what to do?

Read also: DIY swimming goggles repair

This is nothing more than a hole in the fuel tank cap, which is cleaned out with an awl.

The fuel mixture is not supplied or is supplied insufficiently.

There may be several reasons for this:

the air filter is clogged (in this case, it must be removed, rinsed with water, dried and replaced);
the carburetor settings are out of order (which means this unit needs to be re-adjusted);
the integrity of the carburetor membrane is broken (must be replaced);
the channels of the carburetor are clogged (it must be disassembled and all parts and assemblies must be cleaned).

If at low speeds the engine of the chainsaw works normally, but at high speeds it starts to stall and smoke, the problem may be hidden in the muffler.

To check the quality of its work, you should do:

dismantling (with the obligatory closing of the outlet);
disassembly (if the muffler is collapsible);
cleaning from carbon deposits using special detergents or dry method;
drying (using a hair dryer);
reassembly and assembly.

Dry cleaning without respiratory protection is not recommended. The carcinogens present in the soot will be released into the surrounding atmosphere in the form of dust, the inhalation of which is extremely hazardous to health.

To prevent clogging of the muffler during the operation of the chainsaw, you should carefully monitor the composition of the fuel mixture and the quality of its components.

If the chainsaw engine does not start or cannot develop normal power, it is likely that sufficient pressure does not build up in the engine cylinder for combustion of the fuel mixture. The reason for this may be the wear of the elements of the cylinder-piston group - the piston, rings, bearings, etc. In order to assess the condition of this unit, it should be visually inspected, having previously removed the muffler.

For a more complete diagnosis, a compression gauge is placed in the spark plug hole of the two-stroke engine of the chainsaw. It measures the compression in the engine. Based on the results of the check, one can judge the state of the CPG, however, the exact facts can only be obtained with a complete disassembly of the unit.

If the piston is chipped or scratched, it will obviously need to be replaced. The same applies to deformed or broken piston rings - for normal engine operation, they must be completely intact and free of carbon deposits.

A properly working carburetor guarantees maximum efficiency of the chainsaw, that is, it is possible to develop full power with the most economical consumption of the fuel mixture. The adjustment of this unit is usually carried out by the manufacturer, but its design provides for the possibility of adjustment already during operation.

The fact that such a setting will have to be performed by the owner of the chainsaw is evidenced by:

Strong vibrations or damage to the protective cover.
CPG wear.
Carburetor clogged.
Inability to start the engine or its spontaneous stops after starting.
Increase in fuel consumption and emissions while decreasing engine power.

Chainsaw carburetor adjustment is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions using three special screws, which are responsible for the maximum ("M") and minimum ("L") revolutions, as well as the idle speed of the engine ("T"). In order to exclude unwanted interference by an inexperienced user with the carburetor operation, some manufacturers install only one idle screw.

Carburetor adjustment is carried out in two stages:

Basic (carried out with the engine off).
Finishing (carried out with a running, pre-warmed engine).

For basic adjustment, screw in screws H and L as far as the stop and back out 1.5 turns. Final adjustments require the engine to warm up for 5-10 minutes at low revs.

The final calibration is performed by unscrewing the idle screw until the minimum engine speed is reached (in this case, its operation must be stable, and the chain must be stationary). If the engine stops at idle speed, the screw must be returned back, and if the saw chain is still in motion, continue turning counterclockwise.

Calibration check is performed by test:

Acceleration (with a smooth press on the accelerator, the engine should quickly pick up speed to the maximum indicator).
Maximum speed (if there is an ignition interruption, screw H should be slightly loosened).
Work at idle speed (the chain should not move, and the engine should pick up speed as quickly as possible).

If the owner of the chainsaw is not familiar with the carburetor device and does not have the tool necessary to calibrate it, contact a specialist. The carburetor is a very complex unit, so any wrong action can lead to irreversible consequences, for example, complete engine failure.

If the diagnostics showed that everything is in order with the engine and its systems, then the cause of the malfunction should be looked for in other units of the chainsaw. The most common problems are:

failure of the starter;
improper operation of the lubrication system;
incorrect operation of the chain brake;
saw chain wear, etc.

If the cause of the tool failure is not visible to the naked eye, as is the case with the engine, it is necessary to perform a thorough diagnosis of the faults and eliminate them in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and safety regulations.

It would seem, why does a chainsaw need a summer resident who grows vegetables and fruits, or the owner of a country house who has a small garden and several flower beds? The question disappears when there is a desire to build a bathhouse, update a greenhouse, topple an old business, or just make a bench for relaxation. Unfortunately, any mechanism periodically needs preventive maintenance and replacement of spare parts, and for this you need to be well versed in the device of the product, besides, repairing the chainsaw with your own hands will save time and money.

All chainsaws are similar in structure, regardless of whether they are European (ECHO, Stihl, Husqvarna) or domestic (Kedr, Ural). The main elements are located inside the body - the fuel tank and the engine, and outside the starter, the handle, the saw part (tire) with the chain. A sharp jerk in the cable starts the engine, which starts the saw blade.

To begin with, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video clips that show how the chainsaw works and how it works:

From time to time, the saw malfunctions, which require disassembly to eliminate. What can happen to such a simple mechanism as a chainsaw? At least the following:

Stops getting started;
Starts up, but soon stops;
Ceases to function in the cut;
Loses its power;

Most of the malfunctions are associated either with interruptions in the operation of the engine (fuel supply system, exhaust system, ignition, cylinder-piston part), or with malfunctions of other systems and assemblies (clutch, chain brake, tire, lubrication system). Let's consider the most common breakdowns and techniques for their elimination.

A serviceable chainsaw starts with one jerk and does not fail in the cut

The first thing to do if a chainsaw breaks down is to inspect the spark plug by disconnecting the wire and carefully unscrewing it with a special key.

Components of the chainsaw ignition system: 1 - flywheel with magnets, 2 - ignition module, 3 - spark plug, 4 - high voltage wire

Unscrew the spark plug to check its condition.

Her appearance says a lot:

Dry. Most likely, the fuel mixture does not enter the cylinder. It's not about the ignition system, so the plug is screwed back in.
Strongly splashed with fuel. The reason for the excess fuel mixture lies either in the violation of the starting rules, or in the incorrect adjustment of the carburetor. Carefully wipe the spark plug, shut off the fuel supply and turn on the starter to remove excess fuel and ventilate the combustion chamber. Then the candle is put in place and the mechanism is started again.
Covered with black carbon. This may indicate the use of low-quality oil, an incorrectly adjusted carburetor, or an incorrectly calculated gasoline to oil ratio. The candle should be washed, cleaned of carbon deposits with a sharp object (awl or needle), wipe the electrodes with a sandpaper and put in place.

When checking the candle, you need to pay attention to the gap between the electrodes: it is considered normal from 0.5 to 0.65 mm. A damaged or worn gasket must be replaced.

A large amount of black carbon on the spark plug indicates a malfunction of the engine.

To be sure, you should also check for a spark. To do this, put the ignition cable on the spark plug, connect the plug nut and the cylinder with pliers, start the starter and watch for the spark. If it is missing, the plug must be replaced. If the new spark plug also does not emit sparks, the problem is in the high-voltage wire or in the broken connection with the spark plug.

Fuel may not enter the cylinder for the following reasons:

Dirty fuel filter. Remove the fuel hose and check how the fuel flows. If the jet is weak, the filter may need to be cleaned. It is taken out through the filler hole of the fuel tank and cleaned; in case of severe contamination, it is replaced with a new one. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to replace the fuel filter every three months.
Clogged breather (holes in the fuel tank cap). It is also checked by disconnecting the hose, in case of blockage, clean it with a needle.
Lack or insufficient amount of fuel. There may be several reasons for the malfunction. The first reason is a clogged air filter. Air ceases to flow into the carburetor in the required amount, in this regard, due to a too rich fuel mixture, engine operation is disrupted. The contaminated filter is carefully removed, cleaned and washed in water, then dried and reinstalled.

Another reason is improper adjustment of the carburetor. The adjustment is made with three screws.

Timely replacement of the fuel filter ensures full fuel supply

The fuel hose and choke actuator must fit snugly on the fittings

The throttle lever cable must be in place

During work, you must use the instructions, otherwise you can only make it worse.

And the last reason is a violation of the integrity of the membrane or clogging of the carburetor channels.

To repair the carburetor yourself, you need to get acquainted with all its parts.

All parts must be clean, dry and in good condition.

If the engine works fine at low speeds, and at high speeds it starts to stall, the reason may lie in the spark arrester of the muffler, clogged with combustion products.

remove the muffler;
disassemble (there are also non-separable models);
remove carbon deposits using detergents;
dry with a hairdryer;
install in place.

Dry cleaning is unacceptable, as the soot contains carcinogens, the inhalation of which is hazardous to health. After removing the muffler, cover the outlet with a clean cloth.

Interruptions in the operation of the chainsaw signal a possible clogging of the muffler

To avoid clogging of the muffler, it is necessary to monitor the composition of the fuel mixture. The amount of oil should not exceed the rates recommended by the manufacturer. Poor oil quality also negatively affects engine performance.

Often the engine will not start or run at full capacity due to low cylinder pressure. It can be caused by piston or cylinder wear, piston ring sinking, bearing wear. You can partially examine the state of the cylinder-piston group (CPG) by removing the muffler and looking into the opened hole.

A compressor placed in the plug hole will help to measure the compression in the engine - according to the measurement results, you can also talk about the state of the CPG. Accurate data is obtained only after complete disassembly of the mechanism. If the piston is chipped or scratched, it must be replaced.The piston ring must be clean, free of carbon deposits, and be exactly in place.

Piston and crank mechanism wear is considered a serious problem.

According to the results of measuring the compression, one can judge the condition of the parts of the CPG

Let's consider three main faults:

Oil leakage. Check that the pipes are tightly connected to the pump unions and that they are not cracked. Problem tubes are sealed with sealant or replaced.
Insufficient oil supply. Most likely, the lubrication passages are clogged.
Cracks in the oil pump housing. Part needs to be replaced.

Here's how to diagnose the lubrication system:

The chain brake often does not work due to the clogging of grease or sawdust in the brake band and the space under the cover. All parts should be cleaned from blockages. Perhaps the tape is simply worn out, then it needs to be replaced.

The chain brake is restored by mechanical cleaning

Some parts of a chainsaw will wear out faster than others. These include the drive sprocket, tire, chain, anti-vibration elements. For quick replacement, it is best to always have spare parts on hand. Sharpening the chain should not be neglected.

The Makita DCS34 chainsaw is ideal for sawing logs and when pruning branches. The vibration-absorbing design of the saw, coupled with automatic chain lubrication and overrun brake, as well as quick start and electronic ignition, will make work fast and safe. The scope of delivery includes a saw head and a combination wrench.
.Specifications:

Cutting width: 260 mm
Bar length: 350mm
Chain pitch: 3/8
Groove width: 1.3
Number of links: 46
Power: 1.3 kW
Displacement: 33 cm3
Tank (fuel): 0.37 l
Tank (oil): 0.25 L
Weight: 4.7kg

Video Makita DCS34 Benzo Master Channel Repair

Question: Makita DCS34 chainsaw. It looks like it was used a little carelessly - I had to replace the tire, there are signs of overheating of the clutch basket.

Otherwise, it works fine and cuts well enough.

The problem is this: it starts up normally on a cold one and works fine on idle.

After warming up and several cuts when the gas is released, the idle speed becomes higher than when working before sawing.

After starting, the saw works at full warming up at normal speed for a long time without problems, until you throttle a couple of times, which, in my opinion, leads to slight rubbing of the clutch discs on the basket - there is still not enough force to rotate the chain, and as a result the clutch basket heats up.

Like so. Help advice, who will say what?

Answer: Check all throttle controls for binding. If the throttle stick is forcibly pushed back, the rpm should drop.

Question: Chainsaw Makita 34 the problem with the oil pump is tired of changing. What to do?

Answer: Maybe the problem is not in the pump, but in the oil or in the pump drive. The drive is a metal spiral on the crankshaft shaft.

If the distance between the turns is violated or a fragment has fallen, then the teeth will wear out on the next pump.

Question: Today I tried to work a little with the Makita DCS34 chainsaw. The saw stalled during operation.

I pushed on the primer, but the fuel is not supplied to it. I thought the filter was clogged - no. The filter is clean.

When I press the primer, air enters the gas tank, but there is no fuel from the gas tank.
absorbed.

When I removed the top cover, I found a thin pipe, similar to the one that was lowered into the gas tank, which was probably connected somewhere.

It seems to me that there is fuel on it, where it should go from somewhere, but I cannot connect it back, I can not crawl.

As I understand it, you need to disassemble the saw and connect the branch pipe, but how to disassemble it? Before that, I had nothing to do with saws.

Answer: Chainsaw primer working principle - Pump fuel through the carburetor.

The chain is built like this: Fuel goes through the fuel line to the carburetor, and from the carburetor to the primer, from the primer back to the tank. Accordingly, the flown-off pipe was connected to the carburetor.

As a rule, the place is quite easily accessible, it is enough to remove the protective covers or the casing.

Question: How to properly preserve the Makita DCS 34 chainsaw for long-term storage, for example, for the winter, is it better to drain the chain oil?

Answer: For interruptions in work for more than 3 months:

- Drain and clean the fuel tank in a well-ventilated place.
- Leave the carburetor running until the fuel is completely consumed, otherwise the diaphragms in the carburetor may stick together.
- Remove the saw chain and guide bar, clean and spray with protective oil. Thoroughly clean the tool, especially the cylinder fins and the air filter.
- If using ecological chain oil, fill the oil tank.
- Store the device in a dry and safe place.

Everything that is in the instructions and no pouring oil into the CPG.

Question: Makita DCS34 chainsaw. Last week I started sawing - I made 2 cuts - it stalled until I changed the candle and started it.

Candle in soot, all black. Before that, I changed the candle once a year (home use). After that, it began - the candle is poured, the saw will not start.

He took off the carburetor, washed it in gasoline, blew it - it started up for 5 minutes, then the same thing.

Now the chain saw does not start at all, the candle is flooded, there is no flash in the cylinder at all.

My personal opinion is something like this - either the wear of the rubber gaskets in the carburetor, which act as valves; or an ignition malfunction - a shift in the ignition timing is possible.

The compression is normal, like a new one, the spark is excellent, gasoline is supplied to the carburetor, the carburetor is clean, the H and L channels are blown out, the adjusting screws are not broken off. What could be?

Answer: In a chain saw, the ignition timing is not regulated, only the gap between the magnet on the flywheel and the coil is set.

If there is a spark, then the ignition has nothing to do with it, except in rare cases when the coil itself is buggy.

The carburetor is more likely to be faulty. The most sensible advice can only be given by a competent and honest master after diagnosis.

Question: I have purchased a Makita DCS34 chainsaw. There were some questions. Does it make sense to install a 45 bar and a 3/8 chain with this engine?

Is engine running-in required? What is the continuous running time of this saw's motor?

Answer: Running the engine in a chainsaw is not required. To put or not to put more tire on the saw is your own business.

This saw will pull a 45 cm tire. Continuous engine running time is limited by the volume of the fuel tank.

Question: The spark on the Makita chainsaw is missing. Where can I get instructions for setting up the ignition? Or can someone tell me how to do this?

Answer: If there is no spark, while the wires from the magneto do not short to ground and the spark plug is known to be in good condition, then the magneto needs to be replaced.

Question: The new Makita 34 chainsaw has worked a couple of times and will no longer start. There is a spark. After attempts to start, gasoline is poured out of the muffler (it does not drip, but pours out).

There are no buttons for pumping gasoline. Sawdust dust was found under the air filter.

Is the carburetor clogged with sawdust, or is it a more serious carburetor breakdown? I saw a new one, after all! Advise what to do?

Answer: Very often, during a cold start, the “setting” moment is missed. The candle is flooded and then at least pull off - it will not start.

If you continue to try to start, then gasoline will condense in the crankcase. Drying the candle is not enough. She is immediately pelted with gasoline from the crankcase.

It is corrected as follows: the candle is turned inside out, put aside to dry.

Turn off the ignition (required!), Turn the saw upside down with the cylinder and pull the starter handle until the spray of gas from the spark plug hole stops flying.

Collect everything back and start according to the cold start instructions.

The chainsaw has become such a familiar and necessary tool in the hands of a skilled man that if it fails, we begin to feel uncomfortable. But the design of this unit is so simple that we can make almost any repair of its components ourselves. But what is needed and how do you repair a chainsaw with your own hands?

You need to have a very small set of tools for this:

a set of keys (including a special key for spark plugs);
a diagram of the chainsaw device (usually it is included in the delivery set).

You also cannot do without elementary knowledge from the physics course. Add to that the ability to reason logically and you are almost ready to fix your chainsaw.

We will begin the repair with the "diagnosis" - the definition of the malfunction. First you need to unscrew the candle and inspect it carefully. Possible problems are listed below.

Types of spark plugs for chainsaws.

The candle is damp. We make a logical conclusion that the fuel mixture inside the combustion chamber does not ignite. The second reason can be water trapped in the cylinder. In any case, you need to dry the candle, blow out the cylinder. We do the same as when starting the chainsaw. The only difference is that the fuel supply valve must be closed and the throttle valve must be fully open. After that, we put on a cradle from the wire on the candle and check for the presence of a spark by pressing the candle against the cylinder body and trying to start the engine. If the spark is good, the reason may be the fuel - it needs to be replaced. If the spark does not appear or appears unevenly, then the cause of the malfunction should be sought in the ignition system. There may be a breakdown in the high-voltage wire or damage to the spark plug itself. It is enough to try using a spare plug to make sure that the first plug can still be used. If the spare plug does not respond to the start-up test, then the ignition system should be examined more thoroughly.

The candle is dry, but heavily soot-coated. This fact indicates that the balance between fuel and oil is imbalanced (there is too much oil!) Or one of the filters is clogged (fuel or air). Clogged filters first leads to a loss of power of the chainsaw, and then to its complete stop. Dust that gets inside the cylinder cannot be completely burned and settles on the inside of the cylinder in the form of a dense layer of soot.

Chainsaw fuel system: 1 - fuel filter, 2 - carburetor, 3 - manual pre-priming pump.

This drawback is eliminated as follows: the fuel is replaced, the fuel filter is cleaned (according to the instructions), the air filter is washed and dried. The candle itself is mechanically cleaned of soot using an awl, its contacts are cleaned with fine sandpaper.

The candle is dry and clean. Apparently, no fuel enters the cylinder at all. The cause may be either a clogged conductive tube or a problem with the carburetor. It is necessary to clean the fuel line of the chainsaw and check the operation of the fuel pump and carburetor. Repairing the named chainsaw units at home is almost impossible, so they are simply replaced.

Regarding the carburetor of the chainsaw, several important points still need to be clarified: manufacturers minimize the possibility of adjusting it, leaving access only to adjusting the idle speed. But even such a small amount makes it possible to achieve maximum power from the chainsaw.

By adjusting the idle speed correctly, you will notice that the engine runs more reliably.

But it is better to entrust the repair of the carburetor to the service specialists, since it can be done independently only if you have a lot of experience and certain knowledge.

Chainsaw two-stroke engine diagram.

We will assume that you were able to do everything accurately and your chainsaw began to show signs of life, but there are problems with power. It happens very often that the engine works well at idle, but the chain speed increases very slowly when the accelerator lever is pressed, or the chainsaw simply stalls. The problem may be that the exhaust gas outlet is clogged. It is not difficult to eliminate this deficiency.

First you need to unscrew the muffler. The piston must be set to the uppermost position so that it blocks the channel and excludes the possibility of soot getting into the cylinder. And now the soot must be carefully scraped off the walls. You can use both a screwdriver and a thin chisel for these purposes. When cleaning, we try not to make great efforts, as you can easily mechanically damage the cylinder or piston. After removing the plaque, we wipe the cleaned surface with diesel fuel or gasoline, and the muffler can already be screwed on. Before this, the non-separable muffler should be washed with diesel fuel or low-octane gasoline and dried. Removing the soot will increase the power.

It is possible that none of the described home repair methods led to the desired result and the chainsaw still does not work. Most likely, you have a malfunction in the ignition system. It turns out that both the fuel comes in, and the spark on the spark plug is excellent, and the engine refuses to work.

We check the quality of the ignition control as follows: we turn off the spark plug, adjust the gap between the contacts (according to the technical data sheet of the product), connect it to the wire and press it against the cylinder body. And now we observe the moment the spark appears: it should appear at the extreme upper position of the piston. Visually it is noticeable. If deviations exist, then you need to adjust the ignition. It is produced in different ways for different chainsaws, but in general this process resembles ignition adjustment in other two-stroke engines.Repairing a chainsaw on your own is also permissible in case of problems with the chain brake. It usually happens due to surface contamination with sawdust or lubricants. The wear of the braking band itself is also possible. Simply unscrew the side panel and clean. If necessary, the tape is replaced. Image - Makita dcs34 chainsaw DIY repair

Chainsaw electronic ignition circuit.

Repairing a chainsaw that has problems with the cylinder-piston part involves disassembling the motor and replacing worn parts. This is the most difficult repair, but also the rarest. In modern chainsaws, breakdowns of parts of this group are rare. And this usually happens due to the marriage of the components of the mechanism at the initial stage of operation. During this period, you have the opportunity to get a chainsaw repair under a warranty card, so there is no need to make it yourself.

It should be noted that the main reasons that lead to the breakdown of chainsaws and their subsequent repair include violations of the operating rules provided by the manufacturer. First of all, this is a violation of the ratio of oil and gasoline in the fuel mixture. Very often, users of chainsaws do not even suspect that the prepared fuel mixture loses its properties under the influence of direct sunlight. The fuel changes not only its color but also its lubricating properties. Certain particles do become technically harmful additives that can disrupt the operation of the fuel system of a chainsaw. Hence, the conclusion suggests itself that elementary adherence to maintenance rules will allow extending the trouble-free service life of almost all chainsaws.

A few words must be said about other rules that will avoid repairs for the longest possible period. First of all, you need to have several buses (at least two) and several chains (at least 4) available. The tire should be turned 180 ° after every 3 hours of operation. After another three hours, we also replace the chain.This approach will allow uniform wear of all parts of the saw, which will eliminate distortions and additional stress.

It is constantly necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the entire mechanism and various openings. Clogged holes can cause the vacuum plug to prevent fuel or oil from reaching the required parts freely, causing the chain saw to stop.

Video (click to play).

You should start repairing chainsaws at home only when you have certain skills in carrying out such repairs. Otherwise, such work should be entrusted to the specialists of the company service. Their experience will allow you to quickly diagnose a chainsaw and repair it with high quality.