Chainsaw calm do-it-yourself starter repair

In detail: chainsaw calm do-it-yourself starter repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Any chainsaw requires a starter to quickly start. With accelerated scrolling of the crankshaft of the tool, the fuel-air mixture supplied to the engine is compressed and subsequently ignited. Therefore, the normal operation of the starter for a chainsaw determines the performance of the entire mechanism.

Almost all leading manufacturers of chainsaws complete their products with starters of a similar principle of operation. It is no coincidence that specialized stores offer universal starter designs that are equally successful for both Shtil, Husqvarna, Makita chainsaws, and for Chinese semi-official fakes under the named trademarks. Only domestically produced chainsaw starters (Lesnik, Ural and a number of others) have some features.

The principle of operation of a starter for a chainsaw is as follows. A handle is installed in the groove of the body through which a cable is passed. If the handle is lifted sharply, the cable is pulled out and engages the drum of the ratchet mechanism, which transfers the movement to the drum with splines provided on the shaft. In this case, the crankshaft makes several revolutions, and the working mixture in the space between the piston and the cylinder head is compressed. Accordingly, when the handle is lowered, contact between the ratchet and the splines is lost and the shaft stops.

With an increase in engine volume, the required amount of the fuel-air mixture required for its subsequent ignition also increases, so the number of jerks for the starting cable for high-power saws increases. Therefore, in order to accelerate the return of the drum, unwanted return springs made of steels with high elastic properties are used.

Facilitation of starting the chainsaw is implemented in the following ways:

By preliminary enrichment of the working mixture, for which there is a special damper in the carburetor design.
Installation of an automatic decompression valve, which reduces the working pressure in the chainsaw cylinder.
Installing an additional spring, which, during the movement of the cable, facilitates the unwinding of the crankshaft.
The presence in the design of some chainsaws (for example, Partner S series, Maxcut, etc.) a primer - a pump that provides preliminary fuel pumping.

Video (click to play).

With frequent starts of the chainsaw, some parts of the starter are constantly subjected to dynamic loads. As a result, the cable may burst, several ratchet teeth crumble, and the shaft will turn at a much lower speed. Therefore, the revision and even repair of the starter are operations that are sometimes carried out several times per season.

When pulling it out, the rope is constantly rubbing against the starter housing. To replace, disassemble the body of the unit, and carefully raise the ratchet drum so as to prevent the return spring from jumping off its seats. It is better to do this work together: the assistant fixes the spring while the cable is being replaced. After fixing the cable in the handle and in the grooves of the drum, the cable is wound around the roller, and the body is assembled.

If the material of the starter spring is found to be of poor quality, the spring will burst (usually at the point where it joins the drum, where it forms a loop). In this case, it is not worth replacing the spring.Thoroughly clean its surface from dirt and traces of grease, carefully grind the place of destruction, and then release the spring at 600 ... 650 ° C (the steel of the spring should acquire a crimson color). It is necessary to cool the spring slowly, and at 100 ... 150 ° C it is already possible to carefully wrap its end in the shape of the restrictive protrusion on the inner surface of the drum (the steel will acquire the necessary plasticity) and insert it into place. The elastic properties of the spring will not change.

Fitting the starter spring into the correct groove is not easy, even for an experienced user. First, the spring should be twisted to the previous diameter and installed in the cavity of the drum hub. The outer end of the spring is fixed by the restrictive protrusion, and the outer end with a screwdriver should be positioned opposite the hole in the lock. The loop at the inner end of the spring is aligned with the hole with a screwdriver, after which the disc is lowered. Rotate the disc to check if the ratchet dog has come into place. Next, the ratchet itself is assembled.

After installing the spring, it is necessary to adjust its tension. To do this, a cable is inserted into the groove on the circumference, and a return spring is twisted around it. After removing the slack, it is best to wind the spring an additional few turns to ensure the required tension on the part.

Repairing the ratchet itself at home is not recommended, since many operations will require the use of a CNC machine. It is easier to purchase a new unit in specialized stores.

Today we will consider the problems with chainsaw starter malfunctions and we will eliminate them. This type of breakdown is not uncommon during intensive use of a gas-powered saw. And in our case - at logging, it happens systematically.

I had a chance to repair starters from the Ural chainsaw, which we used to cut wood while working in the forestry enterprise. I was still very young and I was dealing with the construction for the first time myself. The malfunction has arisen due to the breakage of the "tongue" of the spring, which is fixed in the drum (housing). I remember how I was all in graphite grease (hands and face) trying to tame the "snake" (metal tape), which "fell apart" into rings and did not want to gather in the bay))). I think who collected (twisted) the spring remembers , as the palms of the constant resistance of the spring convulse. The repair was aggravated by a metal cable. Nevertheless, I successfully coped with the task, although it took me a lot of time and nerves. On chainsaws of world brands, the design is not so complicated and capricious.

So, the chainsaw starter is designed to start the tool. On gearless saws, it is located in the side cover on the flywheel side (left side of the tool). This is a purely mechanical principle of operation. But in order to correctly and efficiently repair a starter, it is necessary to understand the principle of its functionality (work). I propose to consider this issue in the most thorough way.

Above the cover (body) of the starter there is a handle in a special seat of the cover. The handle is connected to a cord, which in turn is wound around a pulley and the end of the cord is secured to the pulley. When the operator (the user of the chainsaw) jerks the handle up, the cord unwinds along the pulley (reel), bringing it to a “centrifugal” state. The pulley has a ratchet in its design (on the back side) - this is a gear with teeth rounded to one side. The teeth of the gear (ratchet) mesh with the "pawls", which are located on the drum (flywheel) of the crankshaft. The crankshaft rotates, the fuel is compressed under the pressure of the piston and the head of the "engine". Meanwhile, the operator lowers the handle, the return spring, which is fastened to the reel (pulley), winds the cord back to its original state (onto the reel). The teeth of the ratchet, meanwhile, slide over the flywheel “dogs”, excluding contact with them, since they are already rotating in the opposite direction.Let me remind you that the ratchet teeth are rounded in one direction - this is the principle that allows engaging with the crankshaft pawls. By rotating in the opposite direction, engagement with the "dogs" is excluded.

Read also: DIY pig repair MTZ 82

But, as loggers know, a pulley comes with a ratchet without characteristic teeth - gears. These are classic professional chainsaws, the ratchet of which is either a steel "cup" of small diameter with side cutouts (protrusions), or plastic analogs (grips). For example, on Calm 361 the ratchet has grips in the form of "dogs". It is these “notches”, “grips” or “pawls” that engagement with the “pawns” splines on the shaft occurs. The principle of operation of the splines-"dogs", I think, is clear - when the shaft accelerates in rotation, the "dogs" slip along the ratchet.

Let's take a look at the general starter circuit.

In addition, the starter is available with a damper spring, the so-called "easy start» Smart Start... On the model of a chainsaw with "easy start", the letter "e"(Eg Husqvarna 340e). However, there are models of professional chainsaws without the letter "e", since they have no analogues without the Smart Start system. The starter cover, with the presence of a damper spring, looks more convex. By the way, damper springs break more often than the main spring.

On a watch we faced a similar problem - on the Husqvarna 340 delimbere the spring has burst (there is no damper spring on the analogue of the Husqvarna 340). And on watch, every hour of road work, they worked according to a 10 × 4 scheme. It was impossible to replace and fix the breakdown. I had to use a "horned" chainsaw and a bumper to cut branches from time to time so that there was no downtime for the tractor driver. The lopper had to take the ax. The next day we changed the starter - we put in a cover from a similar chainsaw (I don't remember the model, but not the Husqvarna 340), which had a design without a damper spring. Of course, the lid did not fit completely, there was a gap on top, but the seat did fit. However, this was the only solution to the problem, there were no specialized stores in that backwater, except for the grocery store ...

So, you have a chainsaw starter. If the cord just breaks, then the malfunction is "obvious" and it should be replaced. Other characteristic signs of a malfunctioning starter are as follows:

the shaft does not seize (the winding cord turns freely);
after a jerk of winding, the cord does not reel;
starter jams

The first step is to twist and remove the lid, make a visual inspection. Chainsaw starter breakdown can be different - a broken spring, a defect in the pulley ("coil"), a worn winding cord.

Next, we prepare tools for repair - these are screwdrivers and round nose pliers. In the event of a break, you will need a new cord. I think the lumberjacks have a supply of starter string. If it is not possible to purchase a factory cord, then you can replace the "forced" with a clothesline, choosing the appropriate diameter.

We unscrew the starter mounting screw, remove the clamp and the damper spring, if there is one on your brand of chainsaw. We dismantle the pulley with the cord, untie or cut off the cord knot, remove it. Since the cord is torn, the spring is discharged, and, in principle, there is no need to be afraid of the spring falling out of the cover.

We unscrew the screws securing the starter

The cord is torn, the spring is discharged, there is no need to be afraid of the spring falling out of the cover during parsing.

Dismantle the torn pulley cord

Removing a fragment of the torn cord from the handle

We take a new cord, select the appropriate length (focusing on the length of the old broken cord), divide, melt the ends of the cord, so that they do not "shake".We push a new cord into the spool, tie a fixing knot and “hide” it in the pulley for unhindered running of the cord along the coil stream (on some models of chainsaws, the cord is tied around the ratchet - as provided by the design). We pass the free end of the cord through the hole in the starter cover and push it into the handle. We fix the cord in the handle using a knot. We wind the cord onto the reel (pulley) in the appropriate direction. We place the pulley in the starter cover over the return spring (and over the damper, if any) and make sure that the spring is engaged with the coil - slightly turn the coil in the appropriate direction. We fix the pulley with a mounting screw.

We measure the new cord by the length of the damaged cord

We melt the end of the cord, before threading it into the pulley so that they do not "shake".

We push the melted end of the cord into the technological hole through the pulley

We push a new cord into the spool.

Tie a knot at the end of the starter cord using round nose pliers

We “hide” the knotted fixing knot in the pulley for the smooth running of the cord along the reel stream

We pass the free end of the cord through the hole in the starter cover and push it into the handle.

We push the free end of the cord into the handle.

Tie a knot at the end of the cord in the handle for fixing

We melt the free knot of the starter cord in the handle

Next, you need to charge (charge) the spring. To do this, pry on the free part of the cord with a screwdriver and pull it out. We grab the cord with our hand, place it in the technological half-hole, which is located at the edge of the coil. We make several turns, turning the coil (pulley) by the cord in the direction of tension.

Pry on the starter cord with your fingers or a screwdriver, pull it back and wind it on the reel.

We wind the cord on the pulley in the direction of tension

We make several turns of the cord on the pulley for acceptable tension

Too little tension will "break" the edge of the pulley housing, and too much tension will negatively affect the return spring. Adjust the tension yourself.

We check the tension of the cord in the starter by pulling it up by the handle

Reinstall the starter cover and fasten with screws

When the spring is charged, the starter is installed in place - the cover is screwed onto the chainsaw. During screwing, the fastening screws are slightly tightened, and the starter must be turned to fully seat and engage the pulley with the flywheel pawls.

When you try to start the chainsaw, the pull of the cord is "idle", ie there is no engagement with the shaft. The operator jerks the starter to no avail, the cord unwinds along the pulley and unwinds without resistance. What is the reason?

The malfunction consists in a burst damper spring ("easy start», «soft start mechanism"). If you remove the starter cover, the breakage is easily detected, since most often the spring bursts closer to the cover. However, it is not the damper spring itself that can break, but its attachment point.

If the spring has burst, then only replacing it with a new one will help to eliminate the malfunction. That is why, I am not a fan of chainsaws with a soft start system. Of course, I do not impose my tastes and opinions on any of my colleagues - everyone has the right to decide his own preferences in this choice of a chainsaw model.

Another reason for the lack of reliable engagement with the shaft may be a defect in the ratchet. We are talking about a model of ratchets with a plastic gear, where the teeth for engagement are cracked and chipped. In this case, it is also necessary to replace this unit - that is, the ratchet mechanism. And it is better to have a model of a chainsaw with a steel ratchet.

By the way, the "pawls" on the flywheel shaft can also cover themselves - the springs that perform the function of a return burst, and as a result, the clutch with the ratchet disappears. A similar malfunction has also occurred in my personal practice.The springs of the "dogs" were made from rope fragments (from the veins). But it was worth incredible patience, time and concentration. I am sure that you should not be similarly perverted and work with another chainsaw.

Another reason when the shaft does not seize is the banal mistake of reassembling the starter - attaching it to the flywheel. This picture is observed among inexperienced lumberjacks. The reason - the lack of engagement of the coil with the "dogs". The fact is that during the final screwing of the lid, the user of the chainsaw does not check the engagement by turning the starter and the ratchet rests on top of the "dogs", and in this case there is no engagement. An inexperienced operator is perplexed and does not understand the cause of the malfunction. Disassembles and assembles again until he guesses (or until a more experienced colleague prompts him) about the correct assembly of the starter.

The picture, when the starter jams, looks like this: the operator jerks the cord by the handle, and the cord either does not move at all (the pulley does not turn), or with great difficulty “passes a short distance” and finally stops. Of course, there are no return movements of the cord to its original position.

I am sure that this picture is familiar to most lumberjacks. The cause of the malfunction lies in the worn out pulley, or, to be more precise, in the support casing, which holds the cord in the pulley “stream”. The cord extends beyond the edges of the case, crawls out, it is rubbed between the edge of the casing and the pulley, and the cord loses its ability to roll back to its original position.

To continue working, you need to rewind the cord on the pulley, "charge" the spring. To start the chainsaw, you need to "catch" the engagement by carefully pulling the cord up by the handle and only then pull. The cord must be taut when pulling to prevent it from falling out of the reel body. This method will help only for a short time of using the tool, since the wear of the assembly is unavoidable - it is necessary to promptly replace the starter coil with a new one.

You should pay attention to one important nuance: during the dismantling of the pulley, it is important that the return spring (if it is intact) does not fly out of the seat. Otherwise, you will get tired of collecting the spring into a coil and putting it in place. In order to avoid the return spring from falling out of the seat, you must first discharge it. This is done as follows: the cord (closer to the handle) is picked up with a screwdriver and placed in the technological half-hole of the pulley. Next, you need to pull out the cord and make several turns in the opposite direction of winding until the spring weakened. Another option to deflate the spring is to cut the cord at the base of the handle, but this will sacrifice a small piece of the cord. When removing the pulley, you must make sure that there is no spring engagement with the pulley.

The return spring is used to wind the cord onto the pulley and is located under the pulley. If it burst, and this depends on the resource (as a rule) of the operation of the tool, then there is only one way out in this situation - to replace the spring with a new one. You can, of course, be perverted, and "blind" from fragments of a short analogue, but this is only in the case when it is really "edge" and it is necessary to finish the work on the cutting area. The end of the spring band will need to be annealed to take the shape of the fixing hook. Such forced absurdities occur, as a rule, on watch and the "Russian peasant" has to "surprise the world" (or amuse) with his ingenuity. But in reality, eradicate want in order to feed the family.

If the spring has burst, then for replacement we remove and discard its remnants. In its place we install a new spring coil. We cover the spring with a protective casing.

The coil (pulley) is installed on the spring (on top of it). After that, it is necessary to turn the pulley, making sure that the coil is engaged with the return spring.Next, we proceed in the sequence indicated in the chapter "In the event of a break in the cord".

Write comments, add if I missed something, did not finish writing something or made a mistake somewhere. I would be glad to have our discussion.

The chainsaw is the main tool with which you can stock up on firewood for a bath or fireplace, and you can also use it during construction work at a summer cottage or in a private house. Subject to all operating conditions and preventive measures provided by the manufacturer, the chainsaw can serve for a long time. But over time, minor malfunctions may occur that you can deal with yourself. For example, repairing a chainsaw starter with your own hands is quite possible, subject to the sequence of operations.

Chainsaw starter device: 1 - starter screw, 2 - bushing, 3 - easy start spring, 4 - screw, 5, 6 - starter coil, 7 - deflector, 8 - starter cover, 9 - handle and cord, 10 - screw.

The most common tool breakdowns include the following:

problems in the ignition system;
stopping the chainsaw in the process of cutting;
loss of power during operation;
wear of some structural elements of the chainsaw (brake band, drive sprockets, anti-vibration parts);
problems in the fuel supply system;
malfunctions associated with the starter.

In addition, it is necessary to carry out a visual inspection of the chainsaw before starting work and preventive measures. These include chain lubrication, control of the amount of fuel mixture, and the availability of the required amount of oil.

Unscrew the spark plug to check its condition.

Each of the faults is eliminated according to its own technology. So, for example, repairing the fuel system of a chainsaw should begin with an inspection of the corresponding filter. After that, they check the correctness of the carburetor regulation, which is carried out with the help of screws. Clearances must be set in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, which must be included with the chainsaw. The repair of the ignition system includes inspections of the spark plugs. This element must be replaced if heavy carbon deposits, a change in the gap or other visible damage are found.

Starter problems may prevent the tool from starting. That is, after the cord is pulled, the chainsaw does not start working.

The reasons for the malfunction are:

broken or cracked pulley;
broken spring;
a rush of the launching cable.

Before repairing the starter, you need to prepare the tools with which to perform the work:

a set of screwdrivers or a special tool that is supplied by the manufacturer in the kit with the tool;
a rope that will be used as a replacement for a broken cord if necessary.

A large amount of black carbon on the spark plug indicates a malfunctioning engine.

Before proceeding directly with the repair of the starter and finding out the causes of malfunctions, it is necessary to remove it from the tool body. To do this, you need to unscrew a few screws holding the side cover to which the starter is attached. This is done with a screwdriver or specialized tool.

After the lid is unscrewed, it is turned over and inspected. Next, unscrew the screw with which the starter is fixed. After that, dismantle the clamp and the spring for a smooth start. Now the pulley is accessible for removal, on which the cord is wound. Once the knot on the rope has been untied, it can be removed from the pulley and replaced with a new one. Provided that the loss of starter performance is associated with a break, this may be sufficient to eliminate the breakdown.However, the rest of the parts that make up this element of the chainsaw should be carefully inspected.

When inspecting the components of the starter, the following malfunctions may be detected:

Most often, damage to the soft-start spring occurs from the end where it is visible when the housing is disassembled.

The pulley could be damaged. There may be cracks or tears or damage to the back. As a result of these problems, the tool cannot perform work.
Damaged soft start spring. In this case, both the spring itself may be mechanically defective, and there may be defects in the place of its attachment. The weakest point of this element is precisely the fastening point and the tip of the spring, which is inserted into it.

If defective or partially damaged starter parts are found, they must be replaced with new ones. In this case, the new elements must correspond to the repaired saw model.

After completing the repair, it is required to properly assemble the starter.

The pulley is installed over the spring. In this case, it is necessary to check how much they adhered to each other. In the course of the repair, it is necessary to wind the pulley. This must be done in such a way that, as it rotates, it pulls the cord into the starter. It is enough to make 3-4 turns to give the required tension. First, the rope is threaded through the hole in the cover of the chainsaw.

You may need to make a few more turns to match the cord holes in the pulley and housing. A new rope is threaded through a technological hole and a loop or knot is made: this will allow it to slide out of the pulley. The rope is taken to the side so that it does not interfere with further work. Next, you need to fix the pulley.

First you need to reinstall the soft start spring. It can be used the old one if no damage is found in it. or a new one if necessary. A starter clamp is installed on top of the spring, which is fixed with a special screw. It reliably fixes the clamp for a long time, preventing it from skewing and swinging. After that, you need to make several turns of the rope and run it inside. The cover with the assembled starter is installed in place. With the help of screws, it is fixed.After the completion of the repair and assembly, you can start working. Self-repair of a starter does not take much time and does not require complex skills, but it saves time and money if you perform such work in a service center.

The chainsaw must be used according to the operating instructions, then it will last a long time and will not fail. All possible malfunctions of the Stihl chainsaw can be identified and eliminated independently. Consider the main problems that may arise in the components and design of the device, and how to repair the Stihl 180 chainsaw with your own hands.

If you notice that Calm is pouring a candle on the Stihl chainsaw, then a malfunction may have occurred in the fuel system. The engine must run on a mixture of gasoline and oil. If the mixture is lean, then there is a decrease in power, the cylinder overheats and the saw systems wear out. A wet plug on a Stihl chainsaw is due to a disproportionate fuel mixture. Lack of air in the mixture prevents correct combustion of the emulsion.

The use of low quality gasoline can lead to engine wear.

Oil plugging of the spark plug also causes the use of oil for 4-stroke engines and piston wear. If such a malfunction occurs, it is necessary to remove the gas tank cap and adjust the fuel supply. The air intake should be repaired. The clogged filter must be blown out with air, or it is better to replace it. How you can clean the filters is described in the instruction manual for the chainsaw.

It will be possible to determine the quality of the mixture using a spark plug insulator. If a brown color appears on it, this means that the quality of the mixture is normal. White color or soot indicates a poor or over-enriched composition of the mixture.

The candle is the cause of oiling. Interruptions in spark formation are observed when the gap is incorrectly set. In the instructions for the repair and operation of the device, the distance between the contacts of the spark plug is given. If you do not have such data, then you can set 0.7-1 mm.

If the gap is smaller, then the efficiency of ignition of the mixture decreases, if it is larger, then interruptions in the formation of a spark occur. To eliminate the over-enrichment of the mixture, the motor is purged. In this case, you need to remove the candle and turn the crankshaft several times with a manual starter.

When repairing a chainsaw, you will notice that no oil gets on the chain. If the chain is not lubricated, then there are interruptions in the lubrication system. There are such malfunctions:

The chain is dry, light in color.
The chain stretches too quickly.
The tire is too hot and the paint has melted on it.
Oil does not drain in the tank.
With a sharp chain, the saw has become worse to cut.

Such signs indicate that there has been a violation of the lubrication process. To check the oil supply to the lubrication unit, you need to remove the tire and turn on the chainsaw. Then increase the speed and observe the end point of the oil line. If the oil is running, it means that its volume is not enough for proper lubrication. If there is no supply, you need to clean the filter. You should also adjust the oil flow. In the absence of malfunctions, further diagnostics and do-it-yourself repairs are required. If it turns out that the substance is not being supplied, then the oil system is repaired.

Consider the main malfunctions and methods for their elimination:

Broken oil hose. This can be seen on examination. In this case, the hose must be replaced.
If there is no thread on the shaft of the oil pump, then it should be replaced.
If there are defects in the thread, then it must be replaced.
If there is no main shaft corkscrew, then a nail of the same diameter can be installed in its place.
The filter might be clogged. This happens frequently with the Stihl MS 180. You can wash it off with gasoline. If this does not correct the problem, the filter should be replaced.

The Stihl 180 chainsaw often has a depressurization of the oil line. This occurs where the oil line from the tank is inserted into the tool body. A breakdown can be detected by oil leaks at the bottom of the saw.

To fix the problem, you need to remove the saw handle, pull out the hose. After that, you need to clean the hose. Then apply sealant to it and place it in the tool body.

If the chainsaw does not start, then the cause may be a breakdown of the ignition and engine start unit. If, when measuring the gap between the module and the flywheel, no deviations are found, then the spark plug should be checked. It is pulled out of the shaft and the gap is measured. If fuel enters the combustion chamber and there are no breakdowns in the ignition system, then the carburetor is faulty.

If the saw does not maintain idle speed, then the following may have happened:

clogged filter;
violation of the ignition system;
the carburetor has deteriorated;
parts of the motor are deformed.

For self-repair, you need to follow these steps:

Flush or replace fuel hose.
Clean the filter.
Check the quality of gasoline and oil.
Check the operation of the carburetor and spark plugs.

When the Stihl chainsaws are repaired, they will work correctly.

If the saw is not gaining momentum, then this could lead to:

faulty engine;
cylinder wear;
failure of piston rings;
breakage of the spark plug;
coil malfunction;
unbalanced carburetor screws.

If, after testing, no defects are found, then the carburetor is checked.

In order to repair the device, it must first be disassembled. You need to remove the side cover, saw chain and bar. Then clean the instrument, blow it out with a compressor and clean all the assemblies with a brush. Then remove the handle. To do this, remove the plugs from the shock absorbers using a screwdriver. After that, remove the shock absorbers and the handle.

Then the starter is removed. Remove the housing cover and unscrew the starter screws. The part is removed. Then remove the flywheel by unscrewing the nut that holds it, unscrew the flywheel nut. You need to twist to the left. Remove the flywheel. Then dismantle the clutch, oil pump drive and carburetor.

After that, the motor is removed and disassembled. It is held in place by 4 screws on the bottom of the saw. You need to unscrew them and remove the motor. Then the engine itself is disassembled. Unscrew the crankcase screws, remove it. Then dismantle the crankshaft, oil seals, bearings and piston rings. At the end of the disassembly, repairs and troubleshooting are performed.

After repair, the tool will need to be reassembled. To do this, install the piston on the connecting rod. The arrow on it should look along the chain, and to the left of the piston there will be the side of the crankshaft in which you want to mount the flywheel. They put the piston in the cylinder. Install the bearings, oil seals and circlip into the cylinder. After that, degrease the place of fixing the crankcase and install it in its place. When reassembling, follow the reverse sequence for dismantling.

Remove the drive sprocket before unscrewing the clutch. Remove the corkscrew washer and remove the sprocket and needle bearing. Unscrew the clutch. Remove the baffle plate and pump.

Chainsaw sprocket replacement is needed when:

jams the movement of the chain;
the drive sprocket has worn out.

To replace, you need to remove the chain saw sprocket. The sprocket teeth must not deviate from the required dimensions, otherwise the saw operation will be accompanied by vibration, which will lead to damage to the crankshaft and bearings. The lifespan of the sprocket is 2 times that of the chain. Use 2-3 chains until the cutting surface is abraded. After that, change the asterisk. It is located behind the clutch. Remove the clutch cover.

Remove the bar, chain, and clutch. But first you need to fix the crankshaft. Then the stripper is placed in the hole of the sleeve and turned clockwise. Remove the clutch. There is an asterisk behind it. Now it is being dismantled. If it is defective, it is replaced.

Consider how to change the oil pump. If the element leaks, then the gasket between the two parts should be renewed. If this part of the oil pump is not damaged, then it must be wiped and put back. Now they check the hose. There should be no cracks on it. If the hose is damaged, replace it. Then the outlet channels are cleaned with a compressor.

Let's consider how the diagnostics and replacement of the piston group is carried out. It is necessary to check the condition of the cylinder and the degree of wear of the piston. After dismantling the motor, unscrew the pallet, remove the crankshaft with the piston from the cylinder. Unscrew the piston pin stoppers. If the piston is defective, it must be replaced. Retaining rings are fixed with a cut down. Before installing the piston group in the cylinder, the piston is lubricated with oil. Before installing the crankcase, degrease its surface and apply a sealant.

It is necessary to set the ignition on the chainsaw. The ignition is adjusted as follows:

turn out the candle and evaluate its appearance;
specify the distance between the magnets and the coil (up to 0.2 mm);
check the spark.

The carburetor is adjusted on a warm engine. If the engine fails to tune, the carburetor stuck could be the cause of excess gasoline in the mixture. To remove the part, it is necessary to unscrew the fastening nuts, disconnect the ignition and the rod from the engine control lever. Then the lever is removed. Then you can remove the filter and carburetor.

The muffler is secured with two nuts. You need to untwist them and pull the muffler towards you. Then the screws of the coil are unscrewed and dismantled. At the Stihl saw, the carburetor has 1 idle speed adjustment screw. If the idle speed is violated, then the carburetor needs repair. This is a complex process and difficult to do on your own. Contact a repair shop.Remove the side cover. Inspect the inside of the protective casing. If there is no damage, check the launch unit. Unscrew the starter bolt and remove the spring. Diagnose a pulley with a cord. If the rope is intact, then each part of the launch mechanism is checked:The starter cord is made of synthetic material and will gradually wear out. If it is damaged, cracked or torn, it must be replaced.In the design of the chainsaw, the starter is responsible for the proper starting of the engine of the tool. Over time, owners of chainsaws are faced with the need to repair this important unit. And, the sooner it is possible to eliminate the malfunction, the less other important parts and mechanisms of the tool will succumb to wear. Image - Chainsaw calm do-it-yourself starter repair

Most well-known chainsaw manufacturers equip their products with starters that work on almost the same principle. Its essence is as follows: in the groove of the saw body there is a handle through which the cord is passed. When the handle is suddenly lifted, the cord is pulled out, which engages the drum, which is in the ratchet mechanism. This drives the spitz drum, which is located on the shaft. During this, the crankshaft makes a couple of revolutions, which leads to compression of the fuel mixture, which at this moment is located between the cylinder head and the piston. On the other hand, when the handle is lowered, the ratchet and spitz loses their contact, which leads to a stop of the shaft.

With an increase in the power of the chainsaw, the amount of the fuel mixture increases, which should ignite when the chainsaw is started. In such a case, the number of jerks of the starter cord must be increased to start the engine. To speed up the return of the drum mechanism, manufacturers use a special steel starter return spring, which has excellent elasticity. Leading brands are using other methods to make it easier to start a chainsaw:

Pre-enrichment of the fuel mixture using a separate flap;
Installation of an automatic decompression valve, which reduces the pressure inside the cylinder of the chainsaw;
Installing a primer designed to pump fuel before starting the engine.

The use of one of these technologies greatly facilitates starting and extends the life of the starter, which is especially noticeable at low temperatures.

The appearance of various malfunctions of the starter leads to the inability to start the chainsaw. The most common starter breakdowns include:

The starter pulley is completely burst or cracked;
The spring has burst;
The starter cable is torn.

To fix each of these faults with your own hands, you will need certain tools. You must have a set of screwdrivers and a spare cable with you. It is necessary to remove and inspect the starter for the chainsaw in the following order:

To find the cause of the breakdown, the starter will need to be removed from the chainsaw. To do this, unscrew the screws with a screwdriver, with the help of which the protective cover with the starter attached to it is held;
After removing the cover, you must carefully unscrew the screw by means of which the starter is attached to the protective cover;
Then you need to try to smoothly start the starter - for this, remove the spring and clamps from it;
Further, a coil with a cable is removed from the starter for inspection.

As a result of inspection, you can find a number of typical malfunctions. These include:

Various damage to the pulley in the form of ruptures or cracks, mainly in the rear part of the part - they interfere with the normal operation of the entire starter;
Damage to the starter spring of the lightweight start - in such cases, not only the spring itself can be faulty, but also the place of its fixation - this is the most vulnerable part of the spring;
Damaged starter flywheel dog.

In any case, any defective part must be completely replaced with a new part.

In order to replace the old spring in the disassembled starter, you must proceed in the following order:

Before installing the chainsaw starter spring, you will need to remove the mechanism clip - this should be done very carefully so as not to break the part;
Then you need to look inside the cage - in it you will see a spring wrapped around a C-shaped element. To pull out the spring, fix its upper part with your finger and pull the starter handle slightly to the side;
After removing the old spring, you need to wind up a new part. At the same time, try to avoid kinking and twisting of the new spring element;
To collect the chainsaw starter spring, you will need to act as carefully as possible, otherwise one wrong movement can lead to unwinding of the part;
After you have managed to fully insert the spring into the starter, you must carefully secure the clip.

Video (click to play).