Chainsaw storm repair do it yourself

I have such a problem. In the summer I bought a Sturm GC9937b chainsaw. The first time everything was fine. Sawed carefully, regularly poured high-quality chain oil. But over time, the saw began to cut crooked. I noticed that on the bus, on one side, the groove along which the chain runs began to wear off. But how can this be? After all, I did not use it without lubrication! Over time, everything became much worse, the saw began to saw to the side and gradually began to saw along the trunk. In general, the horror is complete. I bought a new tire today. He poured oil, began to cut. On a new tire, when I start sawing perpendicular to the trunk, sparks start flying and gradually the saw goes obliquely along the trunk. But why? I do not know what to do. I handed over the chain for sharpening. When I was doing it on the machine. It turns out that they sharpen badly?

The cut leads to the side when the chain is not sharpened correctly or is dull. In this case, the chain goes to the side, it is pressed against one side of the tire, hence the uneven wear, increased friction and sparks. Moreover, in the place that you indicated the oil on the chain almost does not reach. My opinion is that you need to replace everything completely. Both the tire and the chain, apparently the drive sprocket. After each work with the saw, after cleaning the saw headset, do not forget to always turn the bar over for more even wear. There should be more than one chain too. There should be 3 working chains, which change sequentially with the rotation of the tire. The resource of the saw headset is as follows. One tire, one drive sprocket. As all three chains wear out, the entire set of the saw headset is completely replaced - a tire, a star, three chains. Yes, and check the chain tension before and during operation and check it correctly.

Help solve the problem. Why doesn't gasoline go to the carburetor in the Storm SS 109 chainsaw?

There can be many reasons. If in order, then: a dirty fuel filter, a faulty or pinched fuel line, a faulty pump in the carburetor, a dirt-clogged mesh in the carburetor, an unpressurized impulse channel. These are the main ones, maybe something else.

At the end of the season, I drained the fuel mixture, did not drain the oil. At the weekend got around, decided to clean the saw well and at the same time change the tensioner gears. I found an oil puddle under the saw, although the saw was at home. What does it mean and what is the puddle from? What should I do?

Possibly oil from an oil pump. Nothing wrong with that. Just drain the oil if it takes a long time. Although there may be such a reason - they worked at sub-zero temperatures, then brought the saw into heat, the air in the oil tank warmed up, increased in volume and squeezed out part of the oil from the tank. To prevent this, it was necessary to slightly open the lid of the oil tank for a while, until the saw warms up to room temperature, while the saw lies on its side. After warming up, close the lid and start cleaning.

I ask for advice on the Shturm chainsaw. The problem is insufficient chain lubrication. poured oil according to the passport. is there a feed adjustment? There is a drawing on the lid like a screw, but there is not a word in the instructions. else - how to lock the shaft to remove the clutch?

In order to lock the shaft, you need to put a string with knots into the spark plug hole (the piston must be higher than the exhaust hole of the cylinder), then “press” the piston (in the direction of rotation of the chain) and unscrew it calmly (left thread). The oil pump on this saw is not adjustable, so try thinning the oil or adding a little diesel or gasoline to the oil.If it doesn't help, change the oil pump (if you don't want to change the tire and chain).

The saw stalls on the first load. Tell me what could have broken down, how to repair it?

There can be many reasons: candle, filter, carburetor, etc.

I have a Sturm GC99522b chainsaw, in use since 2011, there are practically no complaints, every year I flush the power supply and lubrication system, but there is one unpleasant moment. Sometimes, after a short work, the chain seems to slow down and becomes too taut, as if inhibited, so that you can't move your hand. At first I thought that the chain was stretched, replaced it with a new one, but after a while the problem returned. At the same time, normal work can continue for almost the entire season. What could be?

Check the sprockets on the saw and bar for wear.

If the oil drives with air bubbles, then what to see? Remove the oil pump and flush the tank with gasoline. Where does the air come from?

Air leaks in the connection of the oil pump and the hose that enters (connects) to it, if coarse, in all likelihood in your case, replace.

Help with tuning the carburetor on the Sturm GC99372b chainsaw. I put the screws as indicated in the instructions for the saw, it starts to be shamelessly poured when the gas is suddenly opened, gasoline starts to eject from the carburetor from the air filter hole, tell me how many revolutions do you need to unscrew the screws H and L? Reason for adjustment: Not enough cutting power, motor heating, loss of power, often stalls.

I carried out the adjustment as follows: Screw L released 2 turns and turned clockwise to catch the highest engine speed, then turned a little counterclockwise, the speed returned to normal, then screw H (it was also released 2 turns) turned clockwise a little arrows everything seems to work, but well, I adjusted the idle speed. I think the factory settings did not suit me due to the change of the piston

Tell me the most basic points for the operation and maintenance of Sturm Stein 372xp saws and chains for them?

I bought a chainsaw Shturm, arrived at the dacha - it did not start (they did not start at the store either). He unscrewed the candle - it was wet, checked the spark - there is a spark. I dried everything, tried many, many times, but it was all in vain - I never started it. I bought a new Bosch candle, and everything is the same, fills in, and does not start. Visually, the Bosh sparks better than its own, but still won't start. How to fix it?

When starting a cold one with the suction on, you need to carefully monitor the first flash and push the suction into place in a timely manner. Sometimes it happens from the second, third and even the first time. And sometimes in different ways - it can grasp, work a little and stall on its own (I mean on the suction, with the air damper closed), and sometimes just mumble once and that's all. A person (if with minimal experience or is not yet accustomed to the saw) may not even pay attention, not remove the choke and work as a starter further, aggravating the situation and flooding the engine even more. If the engine is flooded, it won't help. It is necessary for the saw to lie down for half an hour without a candle, and better with the candle hole down. I personally deal with this with the help of a match - simply and quickly. But in order not to dry, you need to try not to flood.

A chainsaw (Chinese) with a worn piston cylinder piston, I changed the piston, completely washed everything that was dirty (i.e. everything), assembled it, tried to start it after replacing the piston, but it does not start with the gas not pressed and stalls if the gas is released. on the carburetor, when I removed it and cleaned it, I did not twist any screws (neither L, nor H, nor T). there is a spark on the candle. maybe I'm doing something wrong, maybe after replacing the CPG is it necessary that the gas is always pressed during running-in? tell me how to be

The piston group does not just wear out. There was a reason for this. Here it was necessary to calculate first of all.There is a big suspicion that these screws were just screwed on in order to “prolong the suffering” of the previous piston to the maximum. If you yourself do not have experience in tuning the carburetor, then it is better to do this under the terms of service, or at least find a person who can perform the tuning. An exception is screw T, there is nothing complicated or potentially harmful to the saw in adjusting the idle speed, but if you are not sure of the correct settings of the other two screws, then adjusting it will do little.

Chinese chainsaw Sturm SS 109. Problem - poor supply of oil for chain lubrication. Tell me how the clutch with an asterisk is removed. The fact is that the oil comes from under the plastic cover, which is located under the clutch.

Threaded coupling. Left. It is necessary to stuff a hard nylon cord into the candle hole, thick - so that it fits into the hole. Thus, we block the crankshaft from rotation. Not a lot of cord - just to push the piston. Then select or make such a key to reliably hook the clutch so that it does not fall off it, otherwise there may be an injury. Tightened well - sometimes you have to lengthen the handle up to 400 millimeters. It is useless to look at the pump - it is unlikely that dirt has got there. Rather, the lubrication system is stunted from the factory. The plastic oil pump drive gear may have broken.

I bought a Sturm chainsaw for the house, according to the instructions, I poured the mixture and ran it in, started working, everything worked properly, I could not get enough of it. Sawed all the wood that was needed, after working it for five hours put it in the garage. A couple of days later I cut down a couple of trees, everything was fine. Then she lay in my garage for about 1.5 months. When it was necessary to cut, he took it, and he could not turn the starter, the piston got stuck, and
does not turn in any way. Moreover, he made considerable efforts, but it became more scary to break the lace. Tell me what to do, saw something new?

Unscrew the plug, turn it without it (just turn off the ignition, otherwise the module may break). If you cannot crank without a spark plug, remove the starter, gently use the flywheel to move it in both directions. If you do not crank and for the flywheel, most likely bad gasoline, the piston is stuck to the cylinder. You can try soaking - remove the muffler, pour a little solvent into the outlet. pour a little into the candle hole. It will seep between the piston and the cylinder, paint, then move a little by the flywheel. At the same time, look at the condition of the piston in the outlet. Also check the clutch with the drive sprocket. If the chain is overtightened or the brake is activated, and the clutch is jammed in the sprocket position pressed against the drum, the clutch bearing has rusted to it, or the clutch bearing is out of order, the crankshaft cannot be cranked with the starter either.

New saw GC9912, at the factory the chain turns with the handle, and in the wound state too. I read about idling. I think this is not the reason - pulling the starter-chain moves? Where to climb, what to lubricate?

It is better not to disassemble a new one, but you need to remove and inspect the clutch. Remove the brake cover, you can see the clutch under it, try to rotate without a chain, there should be free rotation.

Saw GC99452b (Chinese), worked in a gentle mode for about 3 years (mainly sawing wood once or twice a year, a small amount). Started up normally. She worked without complaints. In the heat, he sawed wood for an hour. Has died out. I did not start it right away. But she worked for a minute and died out again. I tried to start - the starter does not rotate - it is not possible to pull it completely by the cord. Until I took it apart, I saw it at the dacha. Tell me what could be? Piston cylinder piston jammed or starter problem?

If it stalls - the starter has nothing to do with it. I'm afraid the problem is in the piston. On the Chinese, the cause of damage can be primarily the poor quality of the parts, especially the bearings of the lower connecting rod head. Or low quality fuel and / or oil.From this (fuel) no saw is insured, even the most successful brand one. I advise you to remove the muffler and look at the piston and rings, while slowly rotating the clutch or flywheel. If it does not turn, it is better not to twist or break, but to remove the cylinder. On Chinese saws, this is not difficult if you have at least some experience in technology. The main thing is to remove the muffler, carburetor and carburetor rack.

The chainsaw is a worthy replacement for hand saws and axes. Today, this tool is available in almost every household - it is indispensable for setting up a personal plot, construction and repair work. Intensive use and improper care of the tool can lead to premature failure. However, the owner of the chainsaw does not have to go to the workshop right away - many of the faults that can happen to her during operation are quite realistic to eliminate on their own.

Correct diagnosis is essential for a successful repair. Therefore, in order to determine why the chainsaw failed and, most importantly, how to make it work again, you first need to know the features of its design.

It should be noted that it does not differ in particular complexity, since it includes:

• engine (two-stroke gasoline);
• functional part (saw bar and chain);
• systems that ensure the joint operation of these two units (ignition, filtration, lubrication, etc.), that is, the tool as a whole.

In order to simplify the diagnosis of malfunctions, it is customary to distinguish them into two main categories:

• engine malfunctions;
• malfunctions of other parts of the chainsaw.

Most often, failures occur in the engine systems, however, the rest of the tool, due to intensive use or improper care, can fail at any time. How to determine exactly where the breakdown occurred? Simple logic will help us with this.

If the problem is in the engine, it will:

• do not start;
• deafen;
• work unstable;
• overheat;
• smoke;
• develop insufficient power.

As for all other malfunctions, as a rule, they manifest themselves with a normally operating motor.

If your chainsaw won't start, the first thing to do is to check for a mixture of fuel in the tank. By the way, it must be prepared in the proportions indicated by the engine manufacturer, otherwise the instrument will simply not start.

After verifying that the fuel mixture is correct and available, the ignition system should be checked. To do this, you need to inspect the spark plug.

Her condition can say a lot:

indicates that the fuel mixture does not enter the carburetor, which means that the problem is not in the ignition;

is the result of an overabundance of the fuel mixture, which lies either in a violation of the engine starting algorithm or in an incorrect carburetor adjustment;

this is a signal about the presence of low-quality oil in the engine lubrication system, incorrect carburetor settings, or an incorrectly prepared fuel mixture.

If the spark plug is splashed with fuel, wipe it thoroughly after removing it. The fuel supply system should also be cleaned. To do this, it overlaps, after which the starter is turned on. A carbonized candle must be carefully cleaned with an awl and emery.

When checking the spark plugs, you should pay attention to the distance between the electrodes (the normal gap is 0.5-0.65 mm), as well as the condition of the gasket and the presence of a spark. A damaged or worn gasket will have to be replaced, and the spark can be checked by putting on the ignition cable, connecting the cylinder and plug nut, and starting the starter.

If the discharge does not occur, the plug must be replaced. In the event that a spark does not appear with a new candle, then the problem is in the connection to the high-voltage wire or in it itself.

If the fuel mixture does not flow into the cylinder, but the spark plug is working properly, this may mean that:

1. Clogged fuel filter.

To clean this unit, remove the fuel hose and check the jet. If it is weak, the filter must be removed through the filler hole of the fuel tank and cleaned or replaced if completely worn out.

As a preventive measure, it is recommended to replace the fuel filter at least once every 3 months.

This is nothing more than a hole in the fuel tank cap, which is cleaned out with an awl.

1. The fuel mixture is not supplied or is supplied insufficiently.

There may be several reasons for this:

• the air filter is clogged (in this case, it must be removed, rinsed with water, dried and replaced);
• the carburetor settings are out of order (which means this unit needs to be re-adjusted);
• the integrity of the carburetor membrane is broken (must be replaced);
• the channels of the carburetor are clogged (it must be disassembled and all parts and assemblies must be cleaned).

If at low speeds the engine of the chainsaw works normally, but at high speeds it starts to stall and smoke, the problem may be hidden in the muffler.

To check the quality of its work, you should do:

• dismantling (with the obligatory closing of the outlet);
• disassembly (if the muffler is collapsible);
• cleaning from carbon deposits using special detergents or dry method;
• drying (using a hair dryer);
• reassembly and assembly.

Dry cleaning without respiratory protection is not recommended. The carcinogens present in the soot will be released into the surrounding atmosphere in the form of dust, the inhalation of which is extremely hazardous to health.

To prevent clogging of the muffler during the operation of the chainsaw, you should carefully monitor the composition of the fuel mixture and the quality of its components.

If the chainsaw engine does not start or cannot develop normal power, it is likely that sufficient pressure does not build up in the engine cylinder for combustion of the fuel mixture. The reason for this may be the wear of the elements of the cylinder-piston group - the piston, rings, bearings, etc. In order to assess the condition of this unit, it should be visually inspected, having previously removed the muffler.

For a more complete diagnosis, a compression gauge is placed in the spark plug hole of the two-stroke engine of the chainsaw. It measures the compression in the engine. Based on the results of the check, one can judge the state of the CPG, however, the exact facts can only be obtained with a complete disassembly of the unit.

If the piston is chipped or scratched, it will obviously need to be replaced. The same applies to deformed or broken piston rings - for normal engine operation, they must be completely intact and free of carbon deposits.

A properly working carburetor guarantees maximum efficiency of the chainsaw, that is, it is possible to develop full power with the most economical consumption of the fuel mixture. The adjustment of this unit is usually carried out by the manufacturer, but its design provides for the possibility of adjustment already during operation.

The fact that such a setting will have to be performed by the owner of the chainsaw is evidenced by:

1. Strong vibrations or damage to the protective cover.
2. CPG wear.
3. Carburetor clogged.
4. Inability to start the engine or its spontaneous stops after starting.
5. Increase in fuel consumption and emissions while decreasing engine power.

Chainsaw carburetor adjustment is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions using three special screws, which are responsible for the maximum ("M") and minimum ("L") revolutions, as well as the idle speed of the engine ("T").In order to exclude unwanted interference by an inexperienced user with the carburetor operation, some manufacturers install only one idle screw.

Carburetor adjustment is carried out in two stages:

1. Basic (carried out with the engine off).
2. Finishing (carried out with a running, pre-warmed engine).

For basic adjustment, screw in screws H and L as far as the stop and back out 1.5 turns. Final adjustments require the engine to warm up for 5-10 minutes at low revs.

The final calibration is performed by unscrewing the idle screw until the minimum engine speed is reached (in this case, its operation must be stable, and the chain must be stationary). If the engine stops at idle speed, the screw must be returned back, and if the saw chain is still in motion, continue turning counterclockwise.

Calibration check is performed by test:

1. Acceleration (with a smooth press on the accelerator, the engine should quickly pick up speed to the maximum indicator).
2. Maximum speed (if there is an ignition interruption, screw H should be slightly loosened).
3. Work at idle speed (the chain should not move, and the engine should pick up speed as quickly as possible).

If the owner of the chainsaw is not familiar with the carburetor device and does not have the tool necessary to calibrate it, contact a specialist. The carburetor is a very complex unit, so any wrong action can lead to irreversible consequences, for example, complete engine failure.

If the diagnostics showed that everything is in order with the engine and its systems, then the cause of the malfunction should be looked for in other units of the chainsaw. The most common problems are:

• failure of the starter;
• improper operation of the lubrication system;
• incorrect operation of the chain brake;
• saw chain wear, etc.

If the cause of the tool failure is not visible to the naked eye, as is the case with the engine, it is necessary to perform a thorough diagnosis of the faults and eliminate them in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and safety regulations.

The chainsaw has become such a familiar and necessary tool in the hands of a skilled man that if it fails, we begin to feel uncomfortable. But the design of this unit is so simple that we can make almost any repair of its components ourselves. But what is needed and how do you repair a chainsaw with your own hands?

You need to have a very small set of tools for this:

• a set of keys (including a special key for spark plugs);
• a diagram of the chainsaw device (usually it is included in the delivery set).

You also cannot do without elementary knowledge from the physics course. Add to that the ability to reason logically and you are almost ready to fix your chainsaw.

We will begin the repair with the "diagnosis" - the definition of the malfunction. First you need to unscrew the candle and inspect it carefully. Possible problems are listed below.

Types of spark plugs for chainsaws.

The candle is damp. We make a logical conclusion that the fuel mixture inside the combustion chamber does not ignite. The second reason can be water trapped in the cylinder. In any case, you need to dry the candle, blow out the cylinder. We do the same as when starting the chainsaw. The only difference is that the fuel supply valve must be closed and the throttle valve must be fully open. After that, we put on a cradle from the wire on the candle and check for the presence of a spark by pressing the candle against the cylinder body and trying to start the engine. If the spark is good, the reason may be the fuel - it needs to be replaced.If the spark does not appear or appears unevenly, then the cause of the malfunction should be sought in the ignition system. There may be a breakdown in the high-voltage wire or damage to the spark plug itself. It is enough to try using a spare plug to make sure that the first plug can still be used. If the spare plug does not respond to the start-up test, then the ignition system should be examined more thoroughly.

The candle is dry, but heavily soot-coated. This fact indicates that the balance between fuel and oil is imbalanced (there is too much oil!) Or one of the filters is clogged (fuel or air). Clogged filters first leads to a loss of power of the chainsaw, and then to its complete stop. Dust that gets inside the cylinder cannot be completely burned and settles on the inside of the cylinder in the form of a dense layer of soot.

Chainsaw fuel system: 1 - fuel filter, 2 - carburetor, 3 - manual pre-priming pump.

This drawback is eliminated as follows: the fuel is replaced, the fuel filter is cleaned (according to the instructions), the air filter is washed and dried. The candle itself is mechanically cleaned of soot using an awl, its contacts are cleaned with fine sandpaper.

The candle is dry and clean. Apparently, no fuel enters the cylinder at all. The cause may be either a clogged conductive tube or a problem with the carburetor. It is necessary to clean the fuel line of the chainsaw and check the operation of the fuel pump and carburetor. Repairing the named chainsaw units at home is almost impossible, so they are simply replaced.

Regarding the carburetor of the chainsaw, several important points still need to be clarified: manufacturers minimize the possibility of adjusting it, leaving access only to adjusting the idle speed. But even such a small amount makes it possible to achieve maximum power from the chainsaw.

By adjusting the idle speed correctly, you will notice that the engine runs more reliably.

But it is better to entrust the repair of the carburetor to the service specialists, since it can be done independently only if you have a lot of experience and certain knowledge.

Chainsaw two-stroke engine diagram.

We will assume that you were able to do everything accurately and your chainsaw began to show signs of life, but there are problems with power. It happens very often that the engine works well at idle, but the chain speed increases very slowly when the accelerator lever is pressed, or the chainsaw simply stalls. The problem may be that the exhaust gas outlet is clogged. It is not difficult to eliminate this deficiency.

First you need to unscrew the muffler. The piston must be set to the uppermost position so that it blocks the channel and excludes the possibility of soot getting into the cylinder. And now the soot must be carefully scraped off the walls. You can use both a screwdriver and a thin chisel for these purposes. When cleaning, we try not to make great efforts, as you can easily mechanically damage the cylinder or piston. After removing the plaque, we wipe the cleaned surface with diesel fuel or gasoline, and the muffler can already be screwed on. Before this, the non-separable muffler should be washed with diesel fuel or low-octane gasoline and dried. Removing the soot will increase the power.

It is possible that none of the described home repair methods led to the desired result and the chainsaw still does not work. Most likely, you have a malfunction in the ignition system. It turns out that both the fuel comes in, and the spark on the spark plug is excellent, and the engine refuses to work.