Chainsaw assault do-it-yourself repair

I have such a problem. In the summer I bought a Sturm GC9937b chainsaw. The first time was great. Sawed carefully, quality chain oil was poured regularly. But over time, the saw began to cut crookedly. I noticed that on the tire on one side the groove along which the chain runs began to wear off. But how is it? After all, I did not use it without lubrication! Over time, things got much worse, the saw began to cut in the side and gradually begins to cut along the trunk. In general, the horror is complete. Bought a new tire today. Filled up with oil and started cutting. On a new tire, when I start sawing perpendicular to the trunk, sparks begin to fly and gradually the saw goes obliquely along the trunk. But why? I do not know what to do. The chain has been sharpened. When I was doing it on the machine. It turns out that they sharpen badly?

The cut leads away when the chain is not properly sharpened or dull. In this case, the chain goes to the side, it is pressed against one side of the tire, hence uneven wear, increased friction and sparks. Especially in the place that you indicated the oil almost does not reach the chain. My opinion is that everything needs to be replaced. Both the tire and the chain, apparently the drive sprocket. After each use of the saw, after cleaning the saw set, do not forget to turn the bar over for more even wear. The chain must also be more than one. There should be 3 working chains, which change sequentially along with the rotation of the tire. The resource of the saw set is such. One tire, one drive sprocket. As all three chains wear out, the entire set of saw sets is completely replaced - a tire, a star, three chains. Yes, and check the chain tension before and during operation and do it correctly.

Help solve the problem. Why does the carburetor not get gasoline in the Sturm SS 109 chainsaw?

There can be many reasons. If in order, then: a dirty fuel filter, a faulty or pinched fuel line, a faulty pump in the carburetor, a mesh in the carburetor clogged with dirt, a depressurized impulse channel. These are the main ones, maybe something else.

At the end of the season, I drained the fuel mixture, but did not drain the oil. At the weekend, I got my hands on it, I decided to clean the saw well and at the same time change the tensioner gears. I found an oil puddle under the saw, although the saw was at home. What does this mean and from what puddle? What to do?

Possibly oil from the oil pump. Nothing wrong with that. Just drain the oil if it takes a long time. Although there may be such a reason - they worked at sub-zero temperatures, then they brought the saw into heat, the air in the oil tank warmed up, increased in volume and squeezed out part of the oil from the tank. To prevent this, it was necessary to slightly open the lid of the oil tank for a while until the saw warmed up to room temperature, while the saw would lie on its side. After warming up, close the lid and start cleaning.

I ask for advice on the Sturm chainsaw. The problem is insufficient chain lubrication. filled with oil according to the passport. is there a flow adjustment? On the cover there is a picture like a screw, but there is not a word in the instructions. also - how to lock the shaft to remove the clutch?

In order to lock the shaft, you need to put a rope with knots into the spark plug hole (the piston must be higher than the exhaust hole of the cylinder), then “tighten” the piston (as the chain rotates) and unscrew it calmly (left thread). The oil pump on this saw is non-adjustable, so try thinning the oil or adding some diesel or gasoline to the oil.If that doesn't help, change the oil pump (if you don't want to change the bar and chain).

The saw stalls at the first load. Tell me what could be broken, how to fix it?

There can be many reasons: a candle, a filter, a carburetor, etc.

I have a Sturm GC99522b chainsaw, in use since 2011, there are practically no complaints, every year I flush the power and lubrication system, but there is one unpleasant moment. Sometimes, after a short work, the chain seems to slow down and becomes too tight, as if inhibited, which cannot be moved by hand. At first I thought that the chain was stretched, I replaced it with a new one, but after a while the problem returned. At the same time, normal work can continue for almost the entire season. What could be?

Check the sprockets on the saw and bar for wear.

If the oil drives with air bubbles, then what to look for? Remove the oil pump and flush the tank with gasoline. Where does air come from?

Air leakage in the connection of the oil pump and the hose that enters (connects) to it, if coarsened, in all likelihood, in your case, replace.

Help with setting up a carburetor on a Sturm GC99372b chainsaw. I put the screws as indicated in the instructions for the saw, it starts shamelessly flooding when the gas is suddenly opened, gasoline starts to be thrown out from the carburetor from the air filter hole, tell me, how many turns do you need to unscrew the screws H and L? Reason for adjustment: Not enough cutting power, motor heating, loss of power, often stalls.

I adjusted it like this: Screw L released 2 turns and rotated clockwise caught the highest engine speed, then turned a little counterclockwise, the speed returned to normal, then screw H (it was also released 2 turns) turned a little clockwise arrows everything seems to work, and well, I adjusted the idling. I think the factory settings did not suit me due to the change of the piston

Tell me the most basic points for the operation and maintenance of Sturm Stein 372xp saws and chains for them?

I bought a Sturm chainsaw, arrived at the dacha - it didn’t start (they didn’t start it in the store either). I unscrewed the candle - wet, checked the spark - there is a spark. I dried everything, tried many, many times, but it was all in vain - it never started. I bought a new Bosch spark plug, and everything is the same, it floods and does not start. Visually, Bosh gives a spark better than native, but still does not start. How to fix it?

When starting a cold one with the choke turned on, you need to carefully monitor the first flash and push the choke into place in a timely manner. Sometimes it happens on the second or third and even the first time. And sometimes in different ways - it can catch, work a little and stall on its own (I mean on suction, with the air damper closed), and sometimes just once grunt and that's it. A person (if with minimal experience or not yet accustomed to the saw) may not even pay attention, not remove the choke and continue to work with the starter, aggravating the situation and flooding the engine even more. If the engine is flooded - and will not help. It is necessary that the saw lie down for half an hour without a candle, and it is better with the candle hole down. I personally deal with this with a match - simply and quickly. But in order not to dry, you need to try not to flood.

A chainsaw (Chinese) with a worn-out piston CPG, I changed the piston one, completely washed everything that was dirty (i.e. everything), assembled it, tried to start it after replacing the piston one, but it does not start with the gas not pressed and stalls if the gas is released. on the carburetor, when he removed it and cleaned the screws, he didn’t turn any (neither L, nor H, nor T). there is a spark on the candle. maybe I'm doing something wrong, maybe after replacing the CPG it is necessary that the gas was always pressed during the break-in? tell me how to be?

The piston group just does not wear out. There was a reason for this. That was the first thing to be calculated.There is a big suspicion that these screws were screwed there in order to “prolong the suffering” of the previous piston to the maximum. If you yourself do not have experience in setting up a carburetor, then it is better to do it in a service environment, or at least find a person who can do the setting. The exception is screw T, there is nothing difficult or potentially harmful to the saw in adjusting the idle speed, but if you are not sure that the other two screws are set correctly, then setting it alone will not do much.

Chinese chainsaw Sturm SS 109. The problem is that oil is poorly supplied to lubricate the chain. Tell me how to remove the clutch with an asterisk. The fact is that the oil comes from under the plastic cover, which is located under the clutch.

Threaded coupling. Left. It is necessary to stuff a hard nylon cord into the candle hole, thick enough to enter the hole. Thus, we block the crankshaft from rotating. Not a lot of cord - just to rest the piston. Then pick up or make such a key to securely hook the clutch so that it does not fall off it, otherwise there may be an injury. Tightened well - sometimes you have to lengthen the handle up to 400 millimeters. It’s just useless to look at the pump - it’s unlikely that dirt got there. Rather, the lubrication system is stunted from the factory. The plastic oil pump drive gear may have broken.

I bought a Sturm chainsaw for my home, according to the instructions I poured the mixture and ran it in, started working, everything worked properly, I could not get enough of it. I sawed all the wood that I needed, after working for five hours I put it in the garage. A couple of days later I cut down a couple of trees, everything was fine. Then she lay in my garage for about 1.5 months. When it was necessary to cut, I took it, and I couldn’t turn the starter, the piston seemed to stick, and
doesn't rotate at all. Moreover, he made considerable effort, but it became more scary to break the lace. Tell me what to do, saw something new?

Unscrew the candle, turn it without it (just turn off the ignition, otherwise the module may break). If you can’t turn without a candle, remove the starter, carefully try to move the flywheel in both directions. If you do not crank the flywheel, most likely, bad gasoline, the piston stuck to the cylinder. You can try to soak - remove the muffler, pour a little solvent into the outlet. pour a little into the spark plug hole. It will seep between the piston and the cylinder, turn sour, then gradually move the flywheel. At the same time, check the condition of the piston in the exhaust port. Also check the clutch on the drive sprocket. If the chain is overtightened or the brake is activated, and the clutch is stuck in the position pressed against the sprocket drum, rusted to it, or the clutch bearing has failed, then the crankshaft cannot be turned by the starter either.

The new saw GC9912, the chain is spinning with the handle, and in the wound state too. I read about idle. I think this is not the reason - I pull the starter - does the chain move? Where to climb, what to lubricate?

It is better not to disassemble the new one, but you need to remove and inspect the clutch. Remove the brake cover, you can see the clutch under it, try to rotate without a chain, there should be free rotation.

Saw GC99452b (Chinese), worked in a gentle mode for about 3 years (mostly sawing firewood once or twice a year, a small amount). Started up fine. Worked without complaint. Sawed firewood for an hour in the heat. Has stalled. Didn't start right away. But it worked for a minute and stalled again. I tried to start - the starter does not rotate - it is not possible to drag it completely by the cord. Until I took it apart, I drank now in the country. Tell me what can be? Piston CPG jammed or starter problem?

If it stalls, the starter has nothing to do with it. I'm afraid the problem is in the piston. On the Chinese, the cause of damage may primarily be the poor quality of parts, especially the bearings of the lower head of the connecting rod. Or low-quality fuel and (or) oil.From this (fuel) no saw is insured, even the most successful branded one. I advise you to remove the muffler and look at the piston and rings, while slowly rotating the clutch or flywheel. If it does not turn, it is better not to twist or break, but to remove the cylinder. On Chinese saws, this is not difficult if you have at least some experience in technology. The main thing there is to remove the muffler, carburetor and carburetor rack.

A chainsaw is a worthy replacement for hand saws and axes. Today, this tool is available in almost every household - it is indispensable for arranging a personal plot, construction and repair work. Intensive use and improper care of the tool can lead to premature tool failure. However, it is not at all necessary for the owner of a chainsaw to immediately contact the workshop - many of the malfunctions that can happen to it during operation can be eliminated on their own.

The main condition for a successful repair is the correct diagnosis. Therefore, in order to determine why the chainsaw failed and, most importantly, how to make it work again, you first need to know the features of its design.

It should be noted that it does not differ in particular complexity, since it includes:

• engine (two-stroke gasoline);
• functional part (saw bar and chain);
• systems that ensure the joint operation of these two components (ignition, filtration, lubrication, etc.), that is, the tool as a whole.

In order to simplify the diagnosis of faults, it is customary to distinguish them into two main categories:

• engine malfunctions;
• malfunctions of other components of the chainsaw.

Most often, failures occur in engine systems, however, other parts of the tool, due to intensive use or improper care, can fail at any time. How to determine exactly where the breakdown occurred? This will help us simple logic.

If the problem is in the engine, it will:

• do not start;
• go deaf;
• unsteady work;
• overheat;
• smoke;
• develop insufficient power.

As for all other malfunctions, as a rule they manifest themselves with a normally running motor.

If the chainsaw won't start, the first thing to do is to check the fuel mixture in the tank. By the way, it must be prepared in the proportions specified by the engine manufacturer, otherwise the tool simply will not start.

After making sure that the fuel mixture is correct and available, the ignition system should be checked. To do this, inspect the spark plug.

Her condition can say a lot:

indicates that the fuel mixture does not enter the carburetor, which means that the problem is not in the ignition;

is the result of an excess of the fuel mixture, which lies either in a violation of the engine start algorithm, or in improper carburetor adjustment;

this is a signal about the presence of low-quality oil in the engine lubrication system, incorrect carburetor settings, or an incorrectly prepared fuel mixture.

If the spark plug is splashed with fuel, wipe it thoroughly after removing it. You should also clean the fuel supply system. To do this, it overlaps, after which the starter is turned on. A carbon-covered candle must be carefully cleaned with an awl and emery.

When checking candles, attention should be paid to the distance between the electrodes (the normal gap is 0.5-0.65 mm), as well as the condition of the gasket and the presence of a spark. A damaged or worn gasket will have to be replaced, and the spark can be checked by putting on the ignition cable, connecting the cylinder and spark plug nut, and cranking the starter.

If the discharge does not occur, the candle must be replaced. In the event that a spark does not appear with a new candle, then the problem is in the connection with the high-voltage wire or in itself.

If the fuel mixture does not enter the cylinder, but the spark plug is working properly, this may mean that:

1. The fuel filter is clogged.

To clean this assembly, remove the fuel hose and check the jet. If it is weak, the filter must be removed through the filler hole of the fuel tank and cleaned or replaced in case of complete wear.

As a preventive measure, it is recommended to replace the fuel filter at least once every 3 months.

This is nothing more than a hole in the fuel tank cap, which is cleaned with an awl.

1. The fuel mixture is not supplied or supplied in insufficient quantity.

There may be several reasons for this:

• the air filter is clogged (in this case, it must be removed, rinsed with water, dried and put back in place);
• the carburetor settings have gone astray (which means this assembly must be re-adjusted);
• the integrity of the carburetor membrane is broken (it must be replaced);
• the carburetor channels are clogged (it must be disassembled and cleaned of all parts and assemblies).

If the chainsaw motor works fine at low speeds, but starts to stall and smoke at high speeds, the problem may be hiding in the muffler.

To check the quality of its work, do the following:

• dismantling (with obligatory closing of the outlet);
• disassembly (if the muffler is collapsible);
• cleaning from carbon deposits using special detergents or by dry method;
• drying (using a hair dryer);
• reassembly and installation.

Dry cleaning without respiratory protection is not recommended. The carcinogens present in soot will be released into the surrounding atmosphere in the form of dust, the inhalation of which is extremely dangerous to health.

To prevent clogging of the muffler during the operation of the chainsaw, you should carefully monitor the composition of the fuel mixture and the quality of its components.

If the chainsaw engine does not start or cannot develop normal power, it is likely that there is not enough pressure in the engine cylinder to burn the fuel mixture. The reason for this may be the wear of the elements of the cylinder-piston group - piston, rings, bearings, etc. In order to assess the condition of this assembly, it is necessary to conduct a visual inspection of it, after removing the muffler.

For a more complete diagnosis, a compression gauge is placed in the spark plug hole of a two-stroke chainsaw engine. It measures the compression in the engine. Based on the results of the check, one can judge the state of the CPG, however, accurate facts can only be obtained with a complete disassembly of the assembly.

If there are chips or scratches on the piston, it is obvious that it will have to be replaced. The same applies to deformed or broken piston rings - for normal engine operation, they must be fully functional and clean from carbon deposits.

A properly working carburetor guarantees maximum efficiency of the chainsaw, that is, it is possible to develop full power with the most economical consumption of the fuel mixture. The adjustment of this unit is usually carried out by the manufacturer, however, its design provides for the possibility of adjustment during operation.

The fact that such a setting will have to be performed by the owner of the chainsaw is evidenced by:

1. Strong vibrations or damage to the protective cap.
2. Depreciation of the CPG.
3. Carburetor blockage.
4. Inability to start the engine or its spontaneous stops after starting.
5. Increased fuel consumption and emissions while reducing engine power.

The chainsaw carburetor is adjusted in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions using three special screws that are responsible for the maximum ("M") and minimum ("L") revolutions, as well as idling the engine ("T").In order to exclude unwanted interference by an inexperienced user in the operation of the carburetor, some manufacturers install only one idle screw.

Carburetor adjustment is carried out in two stages:

1. Basic (carried out with the engine off).
2. Finishing (carried out with a running, preheated engine).

For basic adjustment it is necessary to tighten the screws H and L until they stop and turn them back 1.5 turns. Finishing adjustment requires that the engine be warmed up for 5-10 minutes at low speeds.

The final calibration is carried out by turning the idle screw until the minimum engine speed is reached (its operation must be stable and the chain must be stationary). If the engine stops idling, the screw must be turned back, and if the saw chain is still driven, continue to turn it counterclockwise.

Calibration check is done by test:

1. Accelerations (when you gently press the accelerator, the engine should quickly gain momentum to the maximum rate).
2. Maximum speed (if there is a misfire, screw H should be slightly loosened).
3. Idle operation (the chain should not move, and the engine should pick up speed as quickly as possible).

If the owner of the chainsaw is not familiar with the carburetor device and does not have the tool necessary to calibrate it, you should contact a specialist. The carburetor is a very complex unit, so any wrong action can lead to irreversible consequences, such as complete failure of the engine.

If the diagnostics showed that everything is in order with the engine and its systems, then the cause of the malfunction should be sought in other components of the chainsaw. The most common problems are:

• starter failure;
• improper operation of the lubrication system;
• incorrect operation of the chain brake;
• saw chain wear, etc.

If the cause of tool failure is not visible to the naked eye, as is the case with an engine, a thorough fault diagnosis must be made and corrected in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and safety regulations.

The chainsaw has become such a familiar and necessary tool in the hands of a skilled man that if it fails, we begin to feel uncomfortable. But the design of this unit is so simple that we can make almost any repair of its components ourselves. But what do you need and how do you repair a chainsaw with your own hands?

You need to have a very small set of tools for this:

• a set of keys (including a special key for spark plugs);
• chainsaw device diagram (usually it is included in the package).

You also cannot do without elementary knowledge from the course of physics. Add to this the ability to reason logically, and you are almost ready to repair a chainsaw.

We will start the repair with a "diagnosis" - the definition of a malfunction. First you need to unscrew the candle and carefully examine it. Possible problems are listed below.

Types of spark plugs for chainsaws.

The candle is wet. We draw a logical conclusion that the fuel mixture inside the combustion chamber does not ignite. The second reason could be water getting into the cylinder. In any case, you need to dry the candle, blow out the cylinder. We do the same steps as when winding a chainsaw. The only difference is that the fuel supply valve must be closed and the throttle valve fully open. After that, we put a cradle from the wire on the candle and check for a spark by pressing the candle against the cylinder body and trying to start the engine. If the spark is good, then the cause may be fuel - it needs to be replaced.If the spark does not appear or appears unevenly, then the cause of the malfunction should be sought in the ignition system. Perhaps there is a breakdown of the high-voltage wire or damage to the candle itself. It is enough to try to use a spare candle to make sure that the first candle can still be used. If the spare spark plug does not respond to the start test, then the ignition system should be more thoroughly examined.

The candle is dry, but heavily covered with soot. This fact indicates that the balance between fuel and oil is disturbed (too much oil!) Or one of the filters is clogged (fuel or air). Clogged filters lead first to a loss of power of the chainsaw, and then to its complete stop. Dust that gets inside the cylinder cannot burn out completely and settles on the inside of the cylinder in the form of a dense layer of soot.

Chainsaw fuel system: 1 - fuel filter, 2 - carburetor, 3 - manual pre-priming pump.

This disadvantage is eliminated as follows: the fuel is replaced, the fuel filter is cleaned (according to the instructions), the air filter is washed and dried. The candle itself is mechanically cleaned of soot with an awl, its contacts are cleaned with fine sandpaper.

The candle is dry and clean. Apparently no fuel is getting into the cylinder at all. The cause may be either a clogged conductive tube, or problems with the carburetor. It is necessary to clean the fuel line of the chainsaw and check the operation of the fuel pump and carburetor. Repair of these chainsaw nodes at home is almost impossible, so they are simply replaced.

Regarding the chainsaw carburetor, it is still necessary to clarify a few important points: manufacturers minimize the possibility of adjusting it, leaving access only to idle adjustment. But even such a smallness makes it possible to achieve maximum power from the chainsaw.

By properly adjusting the idle speed, you will notice that the engine has become more reliable.

But it is better to entrust the repair of the carburetor to the service specialists, since it can be done independently only if you have extensive experience and certain knowledge.

Scheme of a two-stroke chainsaw engine.

We will assume that you were able to do everything exactly and your chainsaw began to show signs of life, but there are problems with power. It happens very often that the engine runs well at idle, but the chain speed increases very slowly when the accelerator lever is pressed, or the chainsaw simply stalls. The problem may be that the hole for exhaust gases is clogged. It is not difficult to eliminate this shortcoming.

First you need to unscrew the muffler. The piston must be set to its highest position so that it blocks the channel and excludes the possibility of soot entering the cylinder. And now the soot must be carefully scraped off the walls. You can use both a screwdriver and a thin chisel for these purposes. When cleaning, we try not to make great efforts, as you can easily mechanically damage the cylinder or piston. After removing the plaque, we wipe the cleaned surface with diesel fuel or gasoline, and the muffler can already be screwed on. Before this, the non-separable muffler should be washed with diesel fuel or low-octane gasoline and dried. Removing soot will increase power.

It is possible that none of the home repair methods described have led to the desired result and the chainsaw is still not working. Most likely, you have a malfunction in the ignition system. It turns out that the fuel is supplied, and the spark on the candle is excellent, but the engine refuses to work.