Chainsaw taiga 245 do-it-yourself repair

In detail: chainsaw taiga 245 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

No matter what source of heat warms us from the bitter cold, there is still no warmer than the bright Sun or a bonfire blazing with its heat, uniting the interlocutors, who is trying to tell us something interesting through the crackling of firewood burning in it.

Yes, firewood in the forest is easy to get. They are everywhere. But in order not to run into the forest and not look for ‘twelve months’ and ask them to warm themselves by their fire, it’s better to prepare firewood for the winter in advance and then, in a severe snowstorm, enjoy fragrant tea with jam and bagels at the warm stove in the house. And how can you prepare the same firewood if the previously 'friendly' chainsaw already refuses to be friends with us 'referring to a bunch of sores'?

Here is one example of a failure in the operation of the Taiga-245 chainsaw.

Image - Chainsaw taiga 245 do-it-yourself repair

The chainsaw was purchased in 2003 and over the following years it has performed its purpose without fail. Every year, with its help, eight to twelve stacks of firewood were harvested. Minor malfunctions occurred due to inappropriate gasoline. For all ten years of its existence, only the starter cord, compression rings and spark plug have been changed.

In the last harvesting season, Taiga flatly refused to work. Started with great difficulty. There was no high RPM or idle. There was not enough power to cut even small round timber. It could stall at any moment and then not start at all, as if shouting: ‘It’s not my fault! I can not take it anymore!'

What to do? Which side to start repairing a chainsaw? We decided to start exploring and observing her work in order to identify all the ‘sores’ by the symptoms.

Two days of fiddling with the chainsaw was enough to diagnose it, and the repair time came in the evening of the second day.
We have identified two reasons for the inoperability of the Taiga-245 chainsaw.

  • 1. The magneto flywheel key is broken.

Image - Chainsaw taiga 245 do-it-yourself repair

A little upset. Made a new one. The source of the material was the old support wheel pin from ZAZik.
  • Cut to the required size.
  • Without effort, constantly cooling in water, they turned it on an emery stone.
  • Fitted to the required size.
  • Polished with a whetstone and installed the resulting dowel in its place.
Video (click to play).

Image - Chainsaw taiga 245 do-it-yourself repair

How did you determine the breakage of the segment key? When trying to start the engine, they paid attention to the 'recoil', indicating an early ignition moment. We also noticed rare flashes in the muffler or in the carburetor.
  • 2. The volume of fuel in the working chamber of the carburetor does not correspond to the amount of fuel consumption by the engine in all modes.

The source of the cause was the spring of the rocker arm, which opens the fuel valve at the moments of discharge and the deformation of the arm of the rocker arm itself.

Image - Chainsaw taiga 245 do-it-yourself repair

In our opinion, the constant compression of the spring during the operation of the chainsaw led to its slight deformation, but sufficient to change the operation of the carburetor and thereby disrupt the operation of the chainsaw engine.

The rocker arm also turned out to be slightly bent and, when the membrane was fully pressed by the pusher, it could not fully open the fuel valve. The engine did not have enough fuel under load. But because of the soft spring, when trying to start the engine, there was so much fuel that the candle was flooded and, of course, starting the engine was the most stressful and lengthy process.

  • Picked up a new spring of the appropriate diameter and with a little more rigidity.
  • The rocker arm was bent 1mm-1.5mm towards the pusher.

How did you determine the change in the amount of fuel in the carburetor?

  • Lack of stable idling of the engine.
  • When the chainsaw was tilted during a stall or when the chainsaw was transferred from the starting point to the workplace, the engine changed speed and stalled in a few seconds, after which the chainsaw saw could be started again with great difficulty only after the cylinder was blown out or after the chainsaw stood for 20- 25 minutes. By the way, the fuel tank breather was not clogged and the check valve in it worked fine.
  • After a sharp press on the accelerator handle, the chainsaw engine did not sharply gain maximum speed.
  • After lowering the accelerator, the engine did not go into idle mode, but gradually slowed down its speed, after which it stalled, even when the accelerator (throttle handle) was pressed sharply in the opposite direction.

After our minor repair interventions, we carefully assembled all the disassembled parts of the chainsaw and proceeded to test run it. For this case, we use only low-octane gasoline A-76 (or normal-80).

Image - Chainsaw taiga 245 do-it-yourself repair

As a rule, after opening the carburetor, there will be no gasoline in its chambers, especially since the Taiga-245 chainsaw does not have a manual fuel pre-priming pump - a primer. But we are not used to giving in.
  • With an ordinary medical syringe, a little air was pumped into the tank itself through the breather of the fuel tank, thereby increasing the pressure in it and fuel filled the carburetor fuel pump chamber through the gas line.
  • We closed the choke, turned the ignition switch to the ‘on’ position and scrolled the starter several times until the first flash. What was our joy when the engine started the first time! Incredibly, it is a fact that slight wear or small deformation of a part can greatly affect the performance of the entire engine.

Then, after warming up the engine, the carburetor was set up for idling and for operating mode at maximum loads.

After we replaced the fuel valve rocker spring, according to the recommendations of the manufacturer, the mode jet screws were set to their original position: idle - unscrewed 2-3 turns from the end point (stop), the work jet screw (working) was unscrewed 5°-10° from stop. The screw for fixing the final position of the damper was screwed in so that the throttle would remain ajar, creating a gap of 2mm-3mm.

To adjust the carburetor, you must try very hard to start the chainsaw engine, and when this happens, do not let the engine stall.

In the first minutes of operation after a test run, you can rotate the idle jet screw to somehow keep the engine warming up. Do not try to check the maximum speed of the chainsaw when it is cold. This is bad for the condition of the engine.

When the engine warms up enough, you can safely start adjusting the carburetor.

  • By smooth rotation of the idle jet screw, we check in what position it is: too turned out or screwed in from the position of the maximum engine speed.

When the screw is fully in the screwed position, the fuel channel of the jet is completely blocked and the fuel-air mixture cannot form. Starting the engine in this condition is very difficult, and sometimes impossible. When the screw is loosened (counterclockwise rotation), the amount of fuel passing through the jet gradually increases. There comes a moment of ideal saturation of the fuel-air mixture, as evidenced by the maximum engine speed at idle.

In other words, we can say that when the idle jet screw is turned off, the fuel-air mixture is gradually enriched and there comes a moment when the engine speed reaches a certain maximum value for idle mode, and then begins to drop noticeably. This indicates that at the moment the mixture is becoming enriched.

  • We unscrew the idle screw until, after passing the moment of maximum revolutions, the engine will noticeably reduce its revolutions.
  • By turning the limit screw counterclockwise or clockwise, we adjust the throttle position.

Since we set the idle speed screw to a rich (rich) mixture mode, when the throttle valve screw is screwed in, the fuel-air mixture will gradually become leaner. The flap will open slightly. The air flow will increase. The engine will start to pick up speed.

  • The damper must be installed in a position where the engine speed will not increase further. Gradually opening the throttle will cause misfiring and the engine may stall. The mixture becomes lean. Covering the damper enriches the mixture.
  • We unscrew the screw a little, by 2 ° -5 ° and leave it in this position.
  • By smooth rotation of the idle speed adjustment screw, we select the position at which the engine steadily keeps idle speed, and the saw chain on the bar does not turn.

The optimal idle mode will be established if the engine receives a sufficient amount of an ideal fuel-air mixture corresponding to its working volume and compression ratio.

Carburetor adjustment KMP-100US chainsaw in the operating mode of the engine it is a little easier and is checked at the beginning at the place where the chainsaw engine is started, then in the maximum load mode.

When we have established a stable idle speed of the chainsaw engine, by gently pressing the accelerator handle we check the ability of the carburetor to provide the engine with a fuel-air mixture for maximum speed.

  • If the speed is insufficient, then by turning the screw of the working jet 1/10-1/8 counterclockwise from the stop, we achieve the maximum possible engine speed with a smooth sound, reminiscent of the sound of a four-stroke engine.
  • With a sharp press on the accelerator handle, the engine should also pick up speed sharply. With a sharp release - quickly switch to stable idling.

If this does not happen and a short-term failure is observed, then the screw of the working jet needs to be unscrewed a little more. When, with a sharp pressure on the accelerator lever, the maximum engine speed is not observed and interruptions in operation are noticeable, the adjusting screw of the working jet needs to be screwed in a little.

Screwing in this screw reduces the amount of fuel in the engine's operating mode and the mixture becomes leaner. Eversion - enriches the fuel-air mixture.

And the final tuning stage consists of checking and adjusting the operation of the engine at its maximum load.

And so, our saw steadily keeps idling, has a good response to the control of the accelerator lever. But how will she show herself in work at maximum loads?

They brought a dry beech tree to a log and tried to cut it. The engine slowed down a little and a faint smoke appeared in the exhaust. Rich blend. We screwed in the screw of the working jet a little and lowered the chainsaw with a chain on a beech log, added gas and our Taiga-245 easily coped with the work with a joyful growl.

The next cut was made with moderate chain pressure on the log and at maximum engine speed. ‘Taiga’ sang smoothly, like new. We sawed about one yardstick of firewood. The chainsaw never stalled in operation and in transient conditions, the maximum speed in the load was maintained, the idle mode did not go astray. We were satisfied.

The chainsaw engine is intended for the 76th or 92nd, pour in the appropriate one. High-octane gasoline requires a higher compression ratio to ignite than low-octane gasoline. In order for high-octane gasoline to ignite in a low compression engine, the engine must be at least sufficiently warm and the mixture slightly rich.

But again: enrich the mixture - do not let the gasoline burn out completely.It turns out increased fuel consumption, soot on the exhaust, overflows for a candle, unstable operation under load and in transient conditions, difficult engine start. We impoverish the mixture - additional heating of the engine and other troubles.

These are just our observations and are not binding recommendations for you. The choice is yours.

Home page » Chainsaw Taiga 245 Carburetor Adjustment

Image - Chainsaw taiga 245 do-it-yourself repair

Taiga 245 is a Russian-made chainsaw manufactured at the Degtyarev plant, abbreviated as ZID. The highest power of the motor allows it to be used both for work in the forest and for domestic needs. Today, the Taiga chainsaw is obsolete, but continues to be popular among the country's population. The saw, rarely, but breaks, therefore we will consider the main possible breakdowns and how to remove them with our own hands.

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Despite its power, the Taiga 245 chainsaw did not find widespread use among lumberjacks (of which there are enough reviews about the saw) due to low fault tolerance. Still, when working in the forest, you need a more reliable tool: Stihl, Makita, Husqvarna. Carburetor adjustment. The taiga 245 chainsaw is different from the modern chainsaw. The saw found its main application in everyday life. It is perfect for all household purposes:

  • file a slab;
  • cut down a small tree;
  • sawing old boards;
  • cut branches;
  • buckle whips.

Taiga 245 is a modern chainsaw, made in a plastic case made of impact-resistant material. A photo of this chainsaw can be viewed below the taiga 245 chainsaw from the carburetor and. He is not afraid of falls, medium-strength blows, because. the main part of the parts is made of metal. It should be noted its large weight - 8.95 kg, excluding fuel. Similar saws weigh much less.

Saw dimensions: 900 x 280 x 300. Supplied complete with a saw set based on a 40 cm bar and chain with a pitch of 9.3 mm.

The Taiga chainsaw is based on a 2.6 kW 2-stroke internal combustion engine, which is achieved when the crankshaft rotates at 7000 rpm. The working volume is 75 cubic cm. The piston group cylinder is not hardened, this reduces the resource of the chainsaw. Taiga 245 is a chainsaw, additional adjustment of the carburetor can. This aspect is important for huge volumes of work, where the saw works for a long time under load, in fact, without stopping. In domestic use, it is not critical whether the piston is hardened or not. The piston size is 50mm across. The manufacturer advises using the chainsaw for less than 40 minutes, after this time the tool should rest.

The chainsaw is environmentally friendly when used with special purpose oils.

Taiga 245 uses universal engine oil for both the chain and the motor. It is diluted in a ratio of 1 to 20. Yes, yes, specifically 1/20 is a distinctive feature of the Taiga 245 saw. The brand of gasoline is AI-92. As noted above, the same oil is used to lubricate the chain as in the engine. In the summer, the oil should be diluted with gasoline in a ratio of 1/4. According to the reviews of many saw owners, used oil (working out), for example, from a car engine, can be used to lubricate the chain.

Image - Chainsaw taiga 245 do-it-yourself repair

The carburetor of the Taiga 245 chainsaw deserves special attention, because. most of the defects are directly related to it. Taiga 245 chainsaw carburetor additional carburetor adjustment can. Taiga 245 is armed with a KMP-100US membrane type floatless carburetor with an integrated pump. The pump supplies fuel from the tank to the carburetor.

The main structural elements of the carburetor:

  • pressure regulator;
  • air damper;
  • throttle valve;
  • consistency adjustment screws;
  • fuel pump.

A lot of people asked to make a video on setting up carburetor , and now I have such an opportunity.