Details: do-it-yourself bid f3 repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Last edited by FERRET on Jan 15, 2010 3:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ask Igor - Garry Zloy. He seems to have repaired himself in due time.
_________________
M o p o B Y D i l i !
Since Alexander in IRITO “gouges” the electrician of our cars
Then I have a question for an expert!? How is the generator removed on the F-3?
First, the question is not for you.
I have been driving BID F3 since 08.08.08. hatchback, changed the front struts pads and filters, now you can order any spare parts, by the way, Chinese ones are not so expensive ..
Departure for BID F3 3 years since 2008. Sold in the summer of 2011. Mileage was 56 thousand.
In principle, there were no special claims for the entire period of operation. This is with regard to the engine and chassis. I changed the IAC to NIVOV (the owners will understand me) and the left CV joint under warranty. But, as for the metal of the body, it is really very bad. And the paintwork is bad too. Easily damaged. From the front bumper, in general, almost all of it followed. Unevenly applied - you can see if you look closely. Yes, and the assembly of the body is a curve - here and there it is smeared with sealant to hide crooked joints, the doors do not close well, the bumpers are uneven, there is a dent in all sedans under the gas tank hatch (technological defect). In the 2nd year, the thresholds bloomed a little, the front fenders at the headlights and under the headlights (it can be seen that the headlights rubbed the paint of the wings at the point of contact to bare metal and rust started). Rust also climbed along the bottom of the doors and a couple of points on the trunk lid. In general, I realized that it was time to get rid of. Otherwise, when everything blooms all around you will give it away for a penny. On this, I gave up with the Chinese auto industry. I don't want to play Russian roulette anymore. Yes, the mechanics are quite normal, but the bodywork is just horror. And this is similar for all 'Chinese'. Do they save a lot on this?
 |
Video (click to play). |
Today I watched this car in the New Era salon in Nizhny Novgorod. They brought a whole batch of BID F3. Colors to choose from. Options, respectively, too. I caught the moment when they were just placed around the cabin. I managed to sit in each. I touched everything with my hands, opened it, closed it ...))) Conclusion: on no car, not a single door closed normally (on the first try) ... the manager assured that if I take it, then on a particular car everything will be corrected during pre-sale preparation ... On each copy found chips and scuffs on the body. Mostly on the wings. (the same manager told me that all this would be polished if I took THIS) a lot of body elements on almost every car noticeably “played with light”, giving out surface irregularities - if you walk past the car and look at the doors and fenders. Metal - uzzhzhasnyy - to put it mildly. BUT. If you want a car for that kind of money, then this is not a deterrent at all. The speedometer is very funny. Just very. Who will look - he will understand. And the rest - quite acceptable. Lots of places. Oh yes! The speakers are complete bullshit. and tire prices are insane! for 1 winter gum of the 15th size, 10,000 rubles were broken.
Listen, how did the speedometer make you laugh? A copy of Tayota Carolla 120 - if you don’t shave, then don’t write nonsense.
The car is great!
I bought a BID F3 sedan in February 2008. Sold in May 2011. On her golden Chinese woman, she skated 126 thousand km during this time. Just Lyalka, not a car was! Luxury equipment. Very warm. In our winters (I live in KhMAO-Yugra) it is very important. There was a signalization with auto start - there were never any problems. Only in the second winter, the power steering hose burst from frost (I don’t have a garage, I stood on the street all year round).I think I did the right thing right after the purchase: I ordered a complete anti-corrosion machine in the summer, because it didn’t rot for me, like other owners. Spare parts put analogues from Toyota. So soon she turned from a Chinese woman into a half-samurai))) It was a good car, guys. Sold for three months - for trading in a car dealership as a result. Now I have an Opel Astra sedan. Of course, there are much fewer lotions in the cabin, everything in German is strictly to the minimum. Yes, and the suspension is very stiff after the Chinese woman, she “swallowed” every bump.
I bought Bid f3 at 11 2009, anticorrosive Movil immediately. For all the time I changed the left shock absorber and traction, the coil, the front bumper, the watchdog jumped out. Drove 91t km. Traveled everywhere: from the Black Sea to the White. Rubber native - Federal summer. In the winter of 2011-2012, I bought stampings and put on winter Velcro shoes, ran about 5000 km. In the spring of 2013 I will buy a new set of summer TOYO 2056515. Now I will replace the straps, roller and pump. The car is OK - much better than the VAZs were -11 .-06.-08 MAYBE the Germans are better, but ... By the way, I have a MIC 4zh18 engine - consumption on the highway 6.2l in mountains-7.0. What 100 strong engines can be compared in terms of economy. By the way, I had an eyeball in front of the BIDONCHIKOM - the expense is the same.
I’ve been driving BID f3 since 2007 until today, I can’t say anything bad, the car is good, the mushrooms went only for the 6th year of the car’s operation, I only changed the brake pads and winter tires.
BID F3 bought in July 2013 grade GLXi. Dashed so far only 3700km and only changed the oil in the engine and box. The engine is now being installed by Honda 1.5l 107hp, 144N/m. Accelerates even on the 3rd downhill from 20 km. Salon not an ounce of smell, no need to drive a blizzard. There is a little smell in the trunk, but it is not heard in the cabin.
A good machine is inexpensive, unpretentious and has everything in it.
Plug of an aperture for descent of a cooling liquid in the block of cylinders
1. Checking the opening pressure of the radiator cap valve.
Standard value: 74-103 kPa.
Minimum allowable value: 64 kPa.
2. Coolant check.
(one). Check the fluid level in the cooling system, which should be between the “F” and “L” marks on the expansion tank body.
(2). Check the condition of the coolant for engine oil.
3. Replacing the coolant.
(one). Remove the coolant drain plug, then unscrew the radiator cap. Drain the coolant from the radiator, heating system and engine.
(2). Remove the coolant drain plug in the cylinder block, drain the coolant from the engine. (See Figure 8-1).
(3). Remove the expansion tank of the cooling system, drain the coolant from it.
(4). Pour water through the filler hole of the radiator to flush the tubes and hoses of the cooling system.
(5). Tighten the coolant drain plug in the cylinder block to the tightening torque specified by the specification.
Standard tightening torque: 40±5 Nm.
(6). Install the coolant drain plug in the radiator.
(7). Install the expansion tank of the cooling system.
(eight). Fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the level mark ‘ F ’.
Coolant Type: SHELL Freeze Guard
Full fill volume: 7.0 l.
(9). Install the radiator cap.
(10). Start the engine and let it run until the thermostat opens.
(eleven). Accelerate the engine to high speed for a few more minutes, then turn off the engine.
(12). When the engine is cold, open the radiator cap, add coolant to the radiator, and fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the “F” level mark.
1. Inlet hose (from the radiator). 2. Outlet hose (from the radiator). 3. Thermostat.
(one). Install the O-ring on the thermostat with the air valve turned up. (See Figure 8-3).
1. Air valve. 2. O-ring.
Note : Do not twist or damage the O-ring.
(2). Install the water inlet hose.
/one/.Push the water inlet hose onto the lug of the fitting.
/2/. Fasten the clamp, positioning it according to the marks.
Note : Do not allow sticky substances to come into contact with the O-ring.
If damaged, replace the O-ring with a new part.
one). Put the thermostat in a container of water. When heating water, check the opening temperature of the thermostat. (See Figure 8-4).
Standard value: 82± 1.5°C
2). Continue heating the water to a higher temperature to check the temperature and the full thermostat opening stroke. (See Figure 8-5).
Standard full opening temperature: 95° C
Standard full opening stroke: > 8.5 mm.
Recommendations : measure the height H 1 of the thermostat in the closed position and the height H 2 in the fully open position. Full opening stroke = H2-H1.
1. Amount of full opening stroke.
Do not allow engine oil or grease to come into contact with the O-ring.
Before dismantling the water pump, drain the coolant and remove the timing belt cover.
After installing the water pump, fill in the coolant and install the timing belt cover.
The dismantling procedure is shown in Figure 8-6 (1).
A. Bolt sizes and locations. b. Bolt diameter x bolt length. 1. Alternator support arm. 2. Water pump.
(one). Remove dirt from water pump gasket surface.
(2). Apply adhesive sealant to the surface of the gasket as shown in Figure 8-6 (2).
Recommended sealant: LT 5699.
(3). Install water pump within 15 minutes of applying sealant.
Before removing the hoses, drain the coolant and remove the engine hood, bottom guard, battery, and battery bracket.
After installing the hoses, fill in the coolant and install the battery, battery bracket, bottom shield and engine hood.
The dismantling procedure is shown in Figure 8-7.
(one). Mark the hoses and clamps, then disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses.
(2). Remove the manostat resonator, then disconnect the inlet hose.
one). Moisten the O-ring and insert it into the hose.
(one). Clean the surface of the thermostat gasket from dirt.
(2). Apply sealant where required.
(3). Install thermostat 15 minutes after applying sealant.
3). Connect inlet and outlet hoses.
(one). Push the hoses onto the protrusions of the fittings.
(2). Install the hoses so that the mounting marks are correctly positioned.
1. Radiator inlet hose. 2. Radiator outlet hose. 3. Liquid temperature sensor in the cooling system. 4. To the heater. 5. To the water temperature sensor. 6. Water hose. 7. Thermostat housing. 8. Inlet fitting. 9. Outlet fitting. 10. To the heater. 11. Air intake manifold bracket. 12. Water hose. 13. Water inlet. 14. O-ring. 15. Water hose. 16. Water hose.
1. Air intake manifold. 2. Manostat resonator.
1. Cylinder block. 2. O-ring. 3. Water pump inlet.
1. Dismantling and installation of the radiator.
one). Operations to be performed prior to dismantling:
(one). Remove the radiator cap and coolant drain plug, drain the coolant from the radiator, heater and engine.
(2). Remove the coolant drain plug in the cylinder block and completely drain the engine coolant. (See Figure 8-10).
(3). Remove the expansion tank of the cooling system, drain the coolant from it.
(4). Pour water into the radiator to flush the tubes and hoses of the cooling system.
(7). Remove the battery and its mounting bracket.
2). Operations to be performed after the installation is completed:
(one). Apply a coat of sealant to the threaded surface of the coolant drain plug in the cylinder block. Then tighten the bolt to the specified tightening torque. (See Figure 8-11).
Recommended sealant: LT 5699.
Note: before applying a new sealant, remove the remains of the old one.
Standard tightening torque: 40±5 Nm.
(2). Tighten the plug of the hole for draining fluid from the radiator.
(3). Install the expansion tank of the cooling system.
(4). Pour coolant into the radiator and fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the “F” level mark.
Coolant type: SHELL Freeze Guard .
Full fill volume: 7.0 l.
(5). Install the radiator cap.
(6). Start the engine and let it run until the thermostat opens.
(7). Accelerate the engine to high speed for a few more minutes, then turn off the engine.
(eight). When the engine is cold, open the radiator cap, add coolant to the radiator and fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the “F” level mark.
(9). Check the level of hydraulic fluid for automatic transmissions, top up if necessary.
(10). Install the bottom shield.
(eleven). Install the battery and its mounting bracket.
(12). Install the air filter.
The dismantling procedure is shown in Figure 8-12.
2. Dismantling and installation of the radiator cooling impeller.
The procedure for removing the radiator cooling impeller is shown in Figure 8-12.
1. Plug holes in the radiator to drain the coolant. 2. Radiator cap. 3. Hose, expansion tank. 4. Expansion tank. 5. Radiator inlet hose. 6. Radiator outlet hose. 7. Detail of the upper bracket. 8. Radiator. 9. Lower shock absorber.
10. Radiator cooling impeller assembly.
The budget segment of cars, with the exception of samples of the domestic industry, has long been occupied by Chinese manufacturers for a long time. Moscow is currently filled with quite attractive and functional models of various classes. BYD F3 belongs to the most accessible segment. Inheriting the basic body shapes from the Toyota Corolla, this model is assembled from a proven set of elements and is driven by a modest engine. Our service offers BYD F3 repair at an acceptable cost.
Despite the fairly budget options for components, the owners note the high functionality and reliability of the model. Our experts also note the rather high performance of the model range. In some cases, extremely high-quality components and engineering solutions are used, which are typical for a more expensive car segment. Wherein BYD F3 repair may be required if the owner, when buying, does not take into account a number of manufacturer's omissions and does not complete individual units.
In general, in addition to known omissions, the design does not have any characteristic critical flaws that cause breakage. It is necessary to restore electronic components on various samples, to replace worn parts. One of the advantages is the availability price components, which makes it possible to produce repair BYD F3, with a minimum budget for this.
Our profile focus provides the most qualified approach to troubleshooting and troubleshooting. Knowledge of the specifics of the internal structure and functionality of the craftsmen guarantees exceptionally professional and competent intervention in the design of the car, maintaining the declared reliability parameters.
This manual contains tips for the maintenance and operation of your vehicle, the observance of which
ensures safe and enjoyable driving.
Driving a car without observing the rules of operation can lead to breakdowns or an emergency situation.
tions. Please read this manual before driving.
If a malfunction is detected and for routine maintenance, contact the service station
stations (hereinafter: service stations) of the dealer network of TagAZ International LLC, equipped with modern equipment.
Remember that this manual is an integral part of the vehicle. When selling a car, it must
but be transferred to the new owner.
All information contained in this manual is correct as of the date of publication.The company reserves
right to make changes to the design and technical characteristics of the vehicle without prior notice
This manual is intended for all currently produced modifications of this model and
includes specifications and descriptions of both standard and optional equipment. By-
Please note that some of the systems and equipment described in this manual may
be included with your vehicle.
Therefore, some of the contents of this manual may not apply to the equipment installed on the
Thank you for choosing a car manufactured by TagAZ International LLC. We hope that you
get the most out of your driving experience.
Dollar - 58.85 rubles.
This manual covers the operation and repair of the BYD F3, produced since 2005. The book describes the repair of BID F3 with gasoline engines 4G18 with a volume of 1.6 liters and a power of 73 kW, Monolit publishing house
Publisher: Monolith
Cover: soft
Format: A4
Number of pages: 264
Paper type: offset
ISBN: 978-966-1672-44-3
Engine's type: DA4G15S / DA4G18
Engine capacity: 1.5 / 1.6 l.
Power: 73 kW.
Manual
Engine
Supply system
Cooling system
Lubrication system
Intake and exhaust system
Engine management system
Engine electrical equipment
Clutch
Transmission
Suspension
Steering system
Brake system
Body
Passive safety
Air conditioning system
Vehicle electrical equipment
wiring diagrams
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Plug of an aperture for descent of a cooling liquid in the block of cylinders
1. Checking the opening pressure of the radiator cap valve.
Standard value: 74-103 kPa.
Minimum allowable value: 64 kPa.
2. Coolant check.
(one). Check the fluid level in the cooling system, which should be between the “F” and “L” marks on the expansion tank body.
(2). Check the condition of the coolant for engine oil.
3. Replacing the coolant.
(one). Remove the coolant drain plug, then unscrew the radiator cap. Drain the coolant from the radiator, heating system and engine.
(2). Remove the coolant drain plug in the cylinder block, drain the coolant from the engine. (See Figure 8-1).
(3). Remove the expansion tank of the cooling system, drain the coolant from it.
(4). Pour water through the filler hole of the radiator to flush the tubes and hoses of the cooling system.
(5). Tighten the coolant drain plug in the cylinder block to the tightening torque specified by the specification.
Standard tightening torque: 40±5 Nm.
(6). Install the coolant drain plug in the radiator.
(7). Install the expansion tank of the cooling system.
(eight). Fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the level mark ‘ F ’.
Coolant Type: SHELL Freeze Guard
Full fill volume: 7.0 l.
(9). Install the radiator cap.
(10). Start the engine and let it run until the thermostat opens.
(eleven). Accelerate the engine to high speed for a few more minutes, then turn off the engine.
(12). When the engine is cold, open the radiator cap, add coolant to the radiator and fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the “F” level mark.
1. Inlet hose (from the radiator). 2. Outlet hose (from the radiator). 3. Thermostat.
(one). Install the O-ring on the thermostat with the air valve turned up. (See Figure 8-3).
1. Air valve. 2. O-ring.
Note : Do not twist or damage the O-ring.
(2). Install the water inlet hose.
/one/. Push the water inlet hose onto the lug of the fitting.
/2/. Fasten the clamp, positioning it according to the marks.
Note : Do not allow sticky substances to come into contact with the O-ring.
If damaged, replace the O-ring with a new part.
one). Put the thermostat in a container of water. When heating water, check the opening temperature of the thermostat. (See Figure 8-4).
Standard value: 82± 1.5°C
2). Continue heating the water to a higher temperature to check the temperature and the thermostat's full opening stroke. (See Figure 8-5).
Standard full opening temperature: 95° C
Standard full opening stroke: > 8.5 mm.
Recommendations : measure the height H 1 of the thermostat in the closed position and the height H 2 in the fully open position. Full opening stroke = H2-H1.
1. Amount of full opening stroke.
Do not allow engine oil or grease to come into contact with the O-ring.
Before dismantling the water pump, drain the coolant and remove the timing belt cover.
After installing the water pump, fill in the coolant and install the timing belt cover.
The dismantling procedure is shown in Figure 8-6 (1).
A. Bolt sizes and locations. b. Bolt diameter x bolt length. one.Alternator support arm. 2. Water pump.
(one). Remove dirt from water pump gasket surface.
(2). Apply adhesive sealant to the surface of the gasket as shown in Figure 8-6 (2).
Recommended sealant: LT 5699.
(3). Install water pump within 15 minutes of applying sealant.
Before removing the hoses, drain the coolant and remove the engine hood, bottom guard, battery, and battery bracket.
After installing the hoses, fill in the coolant and install the battery, battery bracket, bottom shield and engine hood.
The dismantling procedure is shown in Figure 8-7.
(one). Mark the hoses and clamps, then disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses.
(2). Remove the manostat resonator, then disconnect the inlet hose.
one). Moisten the O-ring and insert it into the hose.
(one). Clean the surface of the thermostat gasket from dirt.
(2). Apply sealant where required.
(3). Install the thermostat 15 minutes after applying the sealant.
3). Connect inlet and outlet hoses.
(one). Push the hoses onto the protrusions of the fittings.
(2). Install the hoses so that the mounting marks are correctly positioned.
1. Radiator inlet hose. 2. Radiator outlet hose. 3. Liquid temperature sensor in the cooling system. 4. To the heater. 5. To the water temperature sensor. 6. Water hose. 7. Thermostat housing. 8. Inlet fitting. 9. Outlet fitting. 10. To the heater. 11. Air intake manifold bracket. 12. Water hose. 13. Water inlet. 14. O-ring. 15. Water hose. 16. Water hose.
1. Air intake manifold. 2. Manostat resonator.
1. Cylinder block. 2. O-ring. 3. Water pump inlet.
1. Dismantling and installation of the radiator.
one). Operations to be performed prior to dismantling:
(one). Remove the radiator cap and coolant drain plug, drain the coolant from the radiator, heater and engine.
(2). Remove the coolant drain plug in the cylinder block and completely drain the engine coolant. (See Figure 8-10).
(3). Remove the expansion tank of the cooling system, drain the coolant from it.
(4). Pour water into the radiator to flush the pipes and hoses of the cooling system.
(7). Remove the battery and its mounting bracket.
2). Operations to be performed after the installation is completed:
(one). Apply a coat of sealant to the threaded surface of the coolant drain plug in the cylinder block. Then tighten the bolt to the specified tightening torque. (See Figure 8-11).
Recommended sealant: LT 5699.
Note: before applying a new sealant, remove the remains of the old one.
Standard tightening torque: 40±5 Nm.
(2). Tighten the plug of the hole for draining fluid from the radiator.
(3). Install the expansion tank of the cooling system.
(4). Pour coolant into the radiator and fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the “F” level mark.
Coolant type: SHELL Freeze Guard .
Full fill volume: 7.0 l.
(5). Install the radiator cap.
(6). Start the engine and let it run until the thermostat opens.
(7). Accelerate the engine to high speed for a few more minutes, then turn off the engine.
(eight). When the engine is cold, open the radiator cap, add coolant to the radiator and fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the “F” level mark.
(9). Check the level of hydraulic fluid for automatic transmissions, top up if necessary.
(10). Install the bottom shield.
(eleven). Install the battery and its mounting bracket.
(12). Install the air filter.
The dismantling procedure is shown in Figure 8-12.
2. Dismantling and installation of the radiator cooling impeller.
The procedure for removing the radiator cooling impeller is shown in Figure 8-12.
1. Plug holes in the radiator to drain the coolant. 2. Radiator cap. 3. Hose, expansion tank. 4. Expansion tank. 5. Radiator inlet hose. 6. Radiator outlet hose. 7. Detail of the upper bracket. 8. Radiator. 9.Lower damper.
10. Radiator cooling impeller assembly.
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Repair Manual BYD F3, as well as operation and maintenance manual, BYD F3 car device since 2005 of release, equipped with 4G18 gasoline engines with a working volume of 1.6 liters.
The manual includes general information about the device of BYD (Build Your Dreams - Make Your Dreams) F3 cars, recommendations for operation and maintenance, a description of possible malfunctions of components and assemblies of the car engine, transmission, chassis, steering, brake system.
The publication contains recommendations and tips to help you properly maintain your car. BID F3 and carry out repairs at service stations or independently.
Separate sections of the manual include operating instructions, recommendations for various types of regular self-maintenance and color schemes for electrical equipment (wiring diagrams) of the car.
The book is intended for owners and users of cars BID F3, mechanics of technical centers, employees of service stations and employees of car services.
Russian language
Format: PDF
Size: 201.7MB
This manual covers the operation and repair of the BYD F3, produced since 2005. The book describes the repair of BID F3 with gasoline engines 4G18 with a volume of 1.6 liters and a power of 73 kW, Monolit publishing house.
December 29, 2014, viewed: 2278
This manual covers the operation and repair of the BYD F3 - F3-R, manufactured since 2005. The book describes the repair of BID F3 - F3-R with gasoline engines of 1.5, 1.6 liters, Monolith publishing house.
December 24, 2014, viewed: 2146
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