Bid f3 DIY repair

In detail: do-it-yourself bid f3 repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Last edited by FERRET on Jan 15, 2010 3:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Ask Igor - Garry Zloy. It seems to be repaired in due time.

_________________
We are about B Y D and l and!

Since Alexander in IRITO "hammers" the electrician of our cars

, then all questions on this part can be safely addressed to him!

Then I have a question for a specialist !? How is the generator removed on the F-3?

First, the question is not for you

and secondly, I can't even leave the garage with thorns. Onezh is an anomalous zone.

I've been driving BID F3 since 08.08.08. hatchback, changed the front pillars of the pads and filter, now you can order any spare parts, by the way, Chinese ones are not so expensive ..

Departure for BID F3 3 years from 2008. Sold in the summer of 2011. Mileage was 56 thousand.
In principle, there were no special claims for the entire period of operation. This is with regard to the engine and chassis. I changed the IAC to NIVOVsky (the owners will understand me) and the left CV joint under warranty. But, as far as the metal of the body is concerned, it is really very bad. And the paintwork is bad too. Easily damaged. From the front bumper in general, almost everything flew. Unevenly applied - visible if you look closely. Yes, and the assembly of the body is crooked - here and there it is smeared with a sealant to hide crooked joints, the doors do not close well, the bumpers are uneven, and all sedans have a dent under the fuel filler flap (technological defect). In the 2nd year, the thresholds, the front fenders near the headlights and under the headlights, bloomed a little (it can be seen that the headlights rubbed the paint of the wings at the point of contact to bare metal and rust has gone). Rust also crawled along the bottom of the doors and a couple of points on the trunk lid. In general, I realized that it was time to get rid of it. Otherwise, when everything is blooming all around you will pay for a penny. On this, I gave up with the Chinese car industry. I don’t want to play ‘Russian roulette’ anymore. Yes, the mechanics are quite normal, but the bodywork is just horror. And all the ‘Chinese’ are similar. Do they save much on this or what?

Video (click to play).

Today I watched this car in the New Era showroom in Nizhny Novgorod. We brought in a whole batch of BID F3. Colors to choose from. Options, respectively, too. The moment came when they were just being placed around the cabin. I managed to sit in each one. I touched everything with my hands, opened it, closed it ...))) Conclusion: on any car, not a single door closed normally (the first time) ... the manager assured that if I took it, then on a particular car everything would be corrected during pre-sale preparation ... On each the copy found chips and scuffs on the body. Mostly on the wings. (the same manager told me that all this will be polished if I take THIS) a lot of body elements on almost every car noticeably “played with light”, giving out surface irregularities - if you walk past the car and look at the doors and fenders. Metal is horrible - to put it mildly. BUT. If you want a car for that kind of money, then this is not at all a deterrent. The speedometer is very funny. Very simply. Whoever looks will understand. And the rest is quite acceptable. There is a lot of space. Oh yes! The speakers are complete bullshit. and the prices for rubber are insane! for 1-well winter elastic band of the 15th size it was broken 10,000 rubles.

Listen, how did the speedometer make you laugh? A copy of Tayeta Carolla 120 - if not Sharish, then do not write nonsense.
The car is great!

I bought BID F3 sedan in February 2008. Sold in May 2011. On her golden Chinese woman, she skated 126 thousand km during this time. It was just a lyalka, not a car! Luxurious equipment. Very warm. For our winters (I live in Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug-Yugra) it is very important. There was a signaling with auto start - there were no problems even once. Only in the second winter the power steering hose burst from frost (I don't have a garage, it was on the street all year round).I think I did the right thing right after the purchase: I ordered a full anti-corrosion machine for the car in the summer, because it did not rot with me, like other owners. Spare parts put analogs from Toyota. So soon she turned from a Chinese woman into a semi-samurai))) It was a good machine, guys. I sold it for three months - as a result of trading in a car dealership. Now I have an Opel Astra sedan. Of course, there are much fewer gadgets in the cabin, everything is in German strictly to a minimum. And the suspension is very stiff after the Chinese woman, she “swallowed” every unevenness.

Bid f3 bought in 11 2009, anticorrosive-movil immediately. For all the time I changed the left shock absorber and traction, coil, front bumper, a watchdog popped out. I drove 91t km. I traveled everywhere: from the Black Sea to the White Sea. Native tires - Federal summer. In the winter of 2011-2012, I bought stamping and put on winter Velcro, ran about 5000 km. For 2013 in the spring I will buy a new set of summer TOYO 2056515. Now I will replace the straps, roller and pump. The car is OK - much better than VAZs were -11.-06.-08 MAYBE the Germans and better, but ... By the way, I have MITs 4zh18 capacity-consumption on the highway 6.2l on the mountains-7.0. What 100-strong engines are comparable in terms of economy. By the way, I had before BIDONCHIK OKA-the same consumption.

I have been driving BID f3 from 2007 to the present day, I can’t say anything bad, the car is good, the mushrooms went only for 6 years of car operation, only changed the brake pads and winter tires.

I bought BID F3 in July 2013, GLXi grade. Dashed off only 3700 km so far and only changed the oil in the internal combustion engine and the box. The engine is now being installed by Honda's 1.5L 107hp, 144N / m. It even accelerates to the 3rd downhill from 20 km. Salon not an ounce of smell, no need to drive a blizzard. There is a little smell in the trunk, but you can't hear it in the cabin.

A good car is inexpensive, unpretentious and has everything in it.

Cylinder block coolant drain plug

1. Checking the opening pressure of the radiator cap valve.

Standard value: 74-103 kPa.

Minimum allowed value: 64 kPa.

2. Checking the coolant.

(one). Check the fluid level in the cooling system, which should be between the marks “F” and “L” on the expansion tank housing.

(2). Check the condition of the coolant for engine oil ingress.

3. Replacing the coolant.

(one). Remove the coolant drain plug, then unscrew the radiator cap. Drain coolant from radiator, heating system and engine.

(2). Remove the coolant drain plug in the cylinder block, drain the engine coolant. (See Figure 8-1).

(3). Remove the coolant expansion tank, drain the coolant from it.

(4). Pour water through the radiator filler hole to flush the pipes and hoses of the cooling system.

(5). Tighten the engine block coolant drain plug to the specified tightening torque.

Standard tightening torque: 40 ± 5 N * m.

(6). Install the radiator coolant drain plug.

(7). Install the coolant expansion tank.

(eight). Fill expansion tank with coolant up to the 'F' level mark.

Coolant Type: SHELL Freeze Guard

Full filling volume: 7.0 l.

(9). Install the radiator cap.

(10). Start the engine and run it until the thermostat opens.

(eleven). Run the engine to high speed for a few more minutes, then switch off the engine.

(12). When the engine has cooled down, open the radiator cap, add coolant to the radiator and fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the “F” level mark.

1. Inlet hose (from radiator). 2. Outlet hose (from the radiator). 3. Thermostat.

(one). Install the O-ring on the thermostat with the air valve facing up. (See Figure 8-3).

1. Air valve. 2. O-ring seal.

Note : Do not twist or damage the O-ring.

(2). Install the water inlet hose.

/one/.Slide the water inlet hose onto the shoulder of the fitting.

/ 2 /. Fasten the clamp by positioning it according to the marks.

Note : Do not allow sticky substances to come into contact with the O-ring.

If damaged, replace the O-ring with a new part.

one). Place the thermostat in a container of water. When heating water, check the opening temperature of the thermostat. (See Figure 8-4).

Standard value: 82 ± 1.5 ° C

2). Continue heating the water to a higher temperature to check the temperature and the value of the full opening stroke of the thermostat. (See Figure 8-5).

Standard fully open temperature: 95 ° C

Standard full opening stroke:> 8.5 mm.

Recommendations : measure the height H 1 of the thermostat in the closed position and the height H 2 in the fully open position. Full opening stroke = H2-H1.

1. Amount of full opening stroke.

Do not allow engine oil and grease to come into contact with the O-ring.

Before removing the water pump, drain the coolant and remove the timing belt cover.

After installing the water pump, add coolant and install the timing belt cover.

The dismantling procedure is shown in Figure 8-6 (1).

A. Bolt sizes and locations. B. Bolt diameter x bolt length. 1. Alternator support arm. 2. Water pump.

(one). Remove dirt from the water pump gasket surface.

(2). Apply adhesive sealant to the gasket surface as shown in Figure 8-6 (2).

Recommended sealant: LT 5699.

(3). Install the water pump within 15 minutes after applying the sealant.

Before removing the hoses, drain the coolant and remove the engine hood, bottom shield, battery and battery bracket.

After installing the hoses, fill in coolant and install the battery, battery bracket, undershield and engine hood.

The dismantling procedure is shown in Figure 8-7.

(one). Mark the hoses and clamps, then disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses.

(2). Remove the manostat resonator, then disconnect the inlet hose.

one). Moisten the O-ring and insert it into the hose.

(one). Remove dirt from the surface of the thermostat gasket.

(2). Apply sealant where required.

(3). Install the thermostat 15 minutes after applying the sealant.

3). Connect the inlet and outlet hoses.

(one). Push the hoses onto the protrusions of the fittings.

(2). Install the hoses so that the mounting marks are positioned correctly.

1. Radiator inlet hose. 2. Radiator outlet hose. 3. Sensor for fluid temperature in the cooling system. 4. To the heater. 5. To the water temperature sensor. 6. Water hose. 7. Thermostat housing. 8. Inlet connection. 9. Outlet fitting. 10. To the heater. 11. Bracket for the intake air manifold. 12. Water hose. 13. Water inlet pipe. 14. O-ring seal. 15. Water hose. 16. Water hose.

1. Intake air manifold. 2. Manostat resonator.

1. The block of cylinders. 2. O-ring seal. 3. Water pump inlet.

1. Removal and installation of the radiator.

one). Operations to be performed before dismantling:

(one). Remove the radiator cap and coolant drain plug, drain the coolant from the radiator, heater and engine.

(2). Remove the coolant drain plug in the cylinder block, completely drain the coolant from the engine. (See Figure 8-10).

(3). Remove the coolant expansion tank, drain the coolant from it.

(4). Pour water into the radiator to flush the pipes and hoses of the cooling system.

(7). Remove the battery and its mounting bracket.

2). Post-installation operations:

(one). Apply a coat of sealant to the threads on the engine block coolant drain plug. Then tighten the bolt to the specified tightening torque. (See Figure 8-11).

Recommended sealant: LT 5699.

Note: Before applying the new sealant, remove the remnants of the old one.

Standard tightening torque: 40 ± 5 N * m.

(2). Tighten the radiator drain plug.

(3). Install the coolant expansion tank.

(4). Fill the radiator with coolant and fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the “F” level mark.

Coolant type: SHELL Freeze Guard.

Full filling volume: 7.0 l.

(5). Install the radiator cap.

(6). Start the engine and run it until the thermostat opens.

(7). Run the engine to high speed for a few more minutes, then switch off the engine.

(eight). When the engine has cooled down, open the radiator cap, add coolant to the radiator and fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the “F” level mark.

(9). Check the automatic transmission hydraulic fluid level and top up if necessary.

(10). Install the bottom shield.

(eleven). Install the battery and its mounting bracket.

(12). Install the air filter.

The removal procedure is shown in Figure 8-12.

2. Dismantling and installation of the radiator cooling impeller.

The procedure for removing the radiator cooling impeller is shown in Figure 8-12.

1. Radiator drain plug for coolant drain. 2. Radiator cap. 3. Hose, expansion tank. 4. Expansion tank. 5. Radiator inlet hose. 6. Radiator outlet hose. 7. Detail of the upper bracket. 8. Radiator. 9. Lower shock absorber.
10. Radiator cooling impeller assembly.

The budget segment of cars, with the exception of samples of the domestic industry, has been occupied for a long time by Chinese manufacturers. Moscow currently filled with quite attractive and functional models of various classes. BYD F3 belongs to the most accessible segment. Having inherited the basic body shapes from the Toyota Corolla, this model is assembled from a proven set of elements and is driven by an engine with modest parameters. Our service offers repair BYD F3 at an acceptable cost.

Despite the fairly budgetary options for components, the owners note the high functionality and reliability of the model. Our experts also note the fairly high performance of the model range. In some cases, extremely high-quality components and engineering solutions are used, typical for the more expensive segment of cars. Wherein repair BYD F3 may be required if the owner, when purchasing, does not take into account a number of omissions of the manufacturer and does not complete individual units.

In general, apart from the well-known omissions, the design does not have any inherent critical flaws that cause breakage. Electronic components have to be restored on various samples, and worn parts have to be replaced. One of the advantages is affordable price components, which makes it possible to produce repair of BYD F3, with a minimal budget for it.

The core focus of our business provides the most qualified approach to troubleshooting and troubleshooting. Knowledge of the specifics of the internal structure and functionality of the craftsmen guarantees exclusively professional and competent intervention in the design of the car, the preservation of the declared reliability parameters.

This manual contains tips for the maintenance and operation of your vehicle, the observance of which

guarantees a safe and pleasant driving experience.

Driving without observing the rules of operation can lead to breakdowns or an emergency.

tion. Read this manual before driving.

If a malfunction is detected and for routine maintenance, contact a service station.

(hereinafter: STO) of the dealer network of OOO TagAZ International, equipped with modern equipment.

Remember that this manual is an integral part of the vehicle. When selling a car, it must

but be transferred to a new owner.

All information contained in this manual is correct as of the date of publication.The company reserves the right to

fight the right to make changes to the design and technical characteristics of the vehicle without prior notice

This manual is intended for all currently produced revisions of this model and

includes specifications and descriptions of both standard and optional equipment. By-

it should be borne in mind that some of the systems and equipment described in this manual may

be present in the complete set of your car.

Therefore, some of the provisions of this manual may not correspond to the equipment installed on the

Thank you for choosing a vehicle manufactured by TagAZ International LLC. We hope that you will

get the most out of his driving.

Dollar - 58.85 rubles.
Euro - 62.68 rubles.

This manual covers the operation and repair of the BYD F3 car, produced since 2005. The book describes the repair of BID F3 with gasoline engines 4G18 with a volume of 1.6 liters and a power of 73 kW, publishing house Monolit

Publisher: Monolith
Cover: soft
Format: A4
Number of pages: 264
Paper type: offset
ISBN: 978-966-1672-44-3

Engine's type: DA4G15S / DA4G18
Engine capacity: 1.5 / 1.6 l.
Power: 73 kWh

Manual
Engine
Supply system
Cooling system
Lubrication system
Intake and exhaust system
Engine management system
Engine electrical equipment
Clutch
Transmission
Suspension
Steering system
Brake system
Body
Passive safety
Air conditioning system
Vehicle electrical equipment
Wiring diagrams

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Cylinder block coolant drain plug

1. Checking the opening pressure of the radiator cap valve.

Standard value: 74-103 kPa.

Minimum allowed value: 64 kPa.

2. Checking the coolant.

(one). Check the fluid level in the cooling system, which should be between the marks “F” and “L” on the expansion tank housing.

(2). Check the condition of the coolant for engine oil ingress.

3. Replacing the coolant.

(one). Remove the coolant drain plug, then unscrew the radiator cap. Drain coolant from radiator, heating system and engine.

(2). Remove the coolant drain plug in the cylinder block, drain the engine coolant. (See Figure 8-1).

(3). Remove the coolant expansion tank, drain the coolant from it.

(4). Pour water through the radiator filler hole to flush the pipes and hoses of the cooling system.

(5). Tighten the engine block coolant drain plug to the specified tightening torque.

Standard tightening torque: 40 ± 5 N * m.

(6). Install the radiator coolant drain plug.

(7). Install the coolant expansion tank.

(eight). Fill expansion tank with coolant up to the 'F' level mark.

Coolant Type: SHELL Freeze Guard

Full filling volume: 7.0 l.

(9). Install the radiator cap.

(10). Start the engine and run it until the thermostat opens.

(eleven). Run the engine to high speed for a few more minutes, then switch off the engine.

(12). When the engine has cooled down, open the radiator cap, add coolant to the radiator and fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the “F” level mark.

1. Inlet hose (from radiator). 2. Outlet hose (from the radiator). 3. Thermostat.

(one). Install the O-ring on the thermostat with the air valve facing up. (See Figure 8-3).

1. Air valve. 2. O-ring seal.

Note : Do not twist or damage the O-ring.

(2). Install the water inlet hose.

/one/. Slide the water inlet hose onto the shoulder of the fitting.

/ 2 /. Fasten the clamp by positioning it according to the marks.

Note : Do not allow sticky substances to come into contact with the O-ring.

If damaged, replace the O-ring with a new part.

one). Place the thermostat in a container of water. When heating water, check the opening temperature of the thermostat. (See Figure 8-4).

Standard value: 82 ± 1.5 ° C

2). Continue heating the water to a higher temperature to check the temperature and the value of the full opening stroke of the thermostat. (See Figure 8-5).

Standard fully open temperature: 95 ° C

Standard full opening stroke:> 8.5 mm.

Recommendations : measure the height H 1 of the thermostat in the closed position and the height H 2 in the fully open position. Full opening stroke = H2-H1.

1. Amount of full opening stroke.

Do not allow engine oil and grease to come into contact with the O-ring.

Before removing the water pump, drain the coolant and remove the timing belt cover.

After installing the water pump, add coolant and install the timing belt cover.

The dismantling procedure is shown in Figure 8-6 (1).

A. Bolt sizes and locations. B. Bolt diameter x bolt length. one.Alternator support arm. 2. Water pump.

(one). Remove dirt from the water pump gasket surface.

(2). Apply adhesive sealant to the gasket surface as shown in Figure 8-6 (2).

Recommended sealant: LT 5699.

(3). Install the water pump within 15 minutes after applying the sealant.

Before removing the hoses, drain the coolant and remove the engine hood, bottom shield, battery and battery bracket.

After installing the hoses, fill in coolant and install the battery, battery bracket, undershield and engine hood.

The dismantling procedure is shown in Figure 8-7.

(one). Mark the hoses and clamps, then disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses.

(2). Remove the manostat resonator, then disconnect the inlet hose.

one). Moisten the O-ring and insert it into the hose.

(one). Remove dirt from the surface of the thermostat gasket.

(2). Apply sealant where required.

(3). Install the thermostat 15 minutes after applying the sealant.

3). Connect the inlet and outlet hoses.

(one). Push the hoses onto the protrusions of the fittings.

(2). Install the hoses so that the mounting marks are positioned correctly.

1. Intake air manifold. 2. Manostat resonator.

1. The block of cylinders. 2. O-ring seal. 3. Water pump inlet.

1. Removal and installation of the radiator.

one). Operations to be performed before dismantling:

(one). Remove the radiator cap and coolant drain plug, drain the coolant from the radiator, heater and engine.

(2). Remove the coolant drain plug in the cylinder block, completely drain the coolant from the engine. (See Figure 8-10).

(3). Remove the coolant expansion tank, drain the coolant from it.

(4). Pour water into the radiator to flush the pipes and hoses of the cooling system.

(7). Remove the battery and its mounting bracket.

2). Post-installation operations:

(one). Apply a coat of sealant to the threads on the engine block coolant drain plug. Then tighten the bolt to the specified tightening torque. (See Figure 8-11).

Recommended sealant: LT 5699.

Note: Before applying the new sealant, remove the remnants of the old one.

Standard tightening torque: 40 ± 5 N * m.

(2). Tighten the radiator drain plug.

(3). Install the coolant expansion tank.

(4). Fill the radiator with coolant and fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the “F” level mark.

Coolant type: SHELL Freeze Guard.

Full filling volume: 7.0 l.

(5). Install the radiator cap.

(6). Start the engine and run it until the thermostat opens.

(7). Run the engine to high speed for a few more minutes, then switch off the engine.

(eight). When the engine has cooled down, open the radiator cap, add coolant to the radiator and fill the expansion tank with coolant up to the “F” level mark.

(9). Check the automatic transmission hydraulic fluid level and top up if necessary.

(10). Install the bottom shield.

(eleven). Install the battery and its mounting bracket.

(12). Install the air filter.

The removal procedure is shown in Figure 8-12.

2. Dismantling and installation of the radiator cooling impeller.

The procedure for removing the radiator cooling impeller is shown in Figure 8-12.

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Repair manual BYD F3, as well as operation and maintenance manual for BYD F3 vehicles since 2005 of release, equipped with gasoline engines 4G18 with a working volume of 1.6 liters.
The manual includes general information about the device of BYD (Build Your Dreams) F3 cars, recommendations for operation and maintenance, a description of possible malfunctions of components and assemblies of the machine's engine, transmission, chassis, steering, brake system.
The publication contains recommendations and tips to help you properly maintain your vehicles. BID F3 and carry out repairs at service stations or on your own.
Separate sections of the manual include operating instructions, recommendations on various types of regular self-maintenance and color schemes of electrical equipment (wiring diagrams) of the car.
The book is intended for car owners and users BID F3, mechanics of technical centers, service station workers and car service employees.

Russian language
Format: PDF
Size: 201.7MB

December 29, 2014 views: 2278

This manual covers the operation and repair of the BYD F3 - F3-R, manufactured since 2005. The book describes the repair of BID F3 - F3-R with gasoline engines of 1.5, 1.6 liters, Monolith publishing house.

December 24, 2014, views: 2146

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