Bl1013 makita DIY repair

Details: bl1013 makita DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

You'd better tell me, if there is a charger for the lith-ion battery of the Makita, then apparently I can also charge the finger batteries with it?

Can you use screwdrivers?

Very inconvenient, they severely damage the case.

Banks can be bought at Leroy:

tell me what could be the reason? Makita charger dc10wa from the beginning charges the batteries and after a minute it shows that the banks are dead (red-green flashing) on the same charger dc10wa I charge the same batteries and everything is fine! (I tried both new and used batteries)

jon Ito i have the same problem and don't know why

I have a 10.8 volt aichel battery was discharged to zero, I restored it with an aimax to each can, all 3 cans hold about 4 volts, but now it does not take charge

Please tell me which household number to use to unscrew the screws?

asdasdda qweqwe.
I have 2 shura bought from officials with a spread of a couple of years, both have 2 batteries in the kit and on all the lid is attached to 2 self-tapping screws and 1 latch.

if you have, then it is fake

thanks for the answer, but I have, I will think, I don't need small wedges

There are no self-tapping screws in these batteries, everything is latched.

Can you make a clip for 18650 from an old battery? that would insert into it the 18650 that came to hand, and it is already in the shura.

+ lkjhgfd36 Then no problem, create contacts inside, use the opening scheme through the holes in the back cover, it's easier to open.

the point is just to charge the 18650 in some other charger, let's say something like BT-C3100 and fill the already charged ones into the clip.

Video (click to play).

It is possible, only banks need to be taken of the same capacity, since the charger (standard) will charge all of them to the battery rating. And of course you need to remember to solder everything that was inside and how it was, or the charge will not see it. Well, or the second option is to solder a 3 Ah capacity there and charge it from a universal charger.

I see, thanks. But I wanted so much

tell me, can you put 3 ampere Akums instead of 1.3?

I bought a 2000mAh battery from the Chinese. Standard charging recognizes them as faulty and does not charge. They sit in a screwdriver like family and work properly. How to solve the charging issue?

IMHO, the standard charger will see and charge. Just up to 10.8 V., but you also need to take into account the fact that during the operation the batteries in the "bank" are slowly unbalanced. That is, if we take these same 10.8 V as the nominal "banks", then each of the accs should be charged up to 3.6 V., respectively. But during operation, some of the accs in the "bank" sinks more than others, and during charging, due to the difference in their own charges, memory errors can come out. But, if the charger has a charge balancer, then all of the above is no longer valid. The akki in the "bank" is balanced during the charge. In general, lithium-ion batteries of the size 18650 can be charged up to two thresholds: 4.25 V. and 4.35 V. In this case, there is a threshold of 4.25 V. And if you change the batteries in the "bank", then I think it's worth look aside:
1. LG HG2 3000mAh 4.2V 20A INR18650HG2
2.Samsung 30Q 3000mAh 4.2V 20A INR18650-30Q
And, if the charger has a charge balancer, then it won't care what capacity it has to fill, just the process of charging the “can” will increase by the very difference between 1300 and 3000 mAh, depending on the charger's capabilities, how much current it charges. Something like this.

Easily, only most likely the standard charger will not see them, and if it does, it will charge to a capacity much less than the nominal value.

hello, tell me the thickness of the positive plate on the battery, from China they send it like the original but the plus plate is thin

For modern cans, rather weak. Inconsistency of characteristics was observed in old cans and under discharge currents that are limiting for cans.However, I don’t remember such a drop in branded cans, even if they do not correspond to the nominal value.

declared capacity 2400
in fact, after 10 cycles, charge discharge 2000
bought on herbest

I had to cut a plus to measure 🙂 0.6 mm, I have many separate cans cut from old batteries, still working. Minus is everywhere as in the photo https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/345/s/3GcnVfo pos. No. 2

1 china
2 original
negative contact
positive contact

Thickness of the plate on the main contacts inside 0.4 mm, auxiliary contacts 0.1 mm, connecting plates, for cans 0.05 mm. Main contact width 4.5 mm. Maybe not that, did not understand the question?

tell me the marking, I want to disassemble and buy to replace it with Ali.

Dmitry Sidorov thank you very much

Battery BL1013 # 112714HC has cans with SE mark US18650VT
They can be replaced with any 18650 with similar current characteristics (more, but not less), here the current is up to 15 Amperes, the main thing is not to buy from a laptop, they are identical in size with low current parameters and are not suitable for powerful consumers.

I want to buy a Makita HP330DWE for home use, it has just such batteries, can you share your operating experience?

It is normal for the house, the model is built on the basis of the older Makita 8281D (drum part) and Makita DF 030D everything else, from the latter it inherited the design feature in the form of a slight backlash of the cartridge, some do not like this, but it does not affect reliability in any way. The impact part is designed for occasional use, you can drill a hole up to 8 mm in diameter in everything except heavy concrete, a meeting with the main filler in the form of crushed granite almost guarantees a stop of drilling, while you cannot press too hard, not a kilowatt drill. Drills already 10 mm in wood with noticeable tension, here again we can talk about the episodic nature of such holes at home. The batteries are reliable, I have 8 of them from different instruments, the oldest in 2009, the newest in 2012, all alive. I use them mainly on a saw with a disc 85 mm, jigsaw, vacuum cleaner. I must say that the batteries are not the strongest, in dry conditions they lose comparative tests for the number of wrapped self-tapping screws (the actual capacity is not enough), but everything works for years. Here you still need to know about the new line of batteries that is replacing this series, in the USA everyone is already sold with a new series, it is much more capacious. But I think about us it will get at best in a couple of years (in the mass segment)

Good day.
For half a year, the second battery is already out of order.
Battery BL1430 (14.4V, 3.0Ah, 44Wh) from the makita BDF 343 RFE screwdriver, complete with smart charger DC18RC S
Charger and screwdriver are fully functional.
When installing the battery on the charger, the red and green lights flash alternately and a beep is heard.
Inside the battery there is a controller board containing several ICs with illegible markings.
Who faced the repair of such batteries, what could be the reason?

The BL1830 battery from a friend of 2 pieces was out of order (from different parties and countries), the reason was not found, they bought a new one. Failed most likely because of the lack (or not working properly of the protection against battery discharge) killed on a circular saw and saber. There was a temka. If you find how to solve it, unsubscribe. The call is not good and I will not take a ruler (18 volts)

Nemez wrote:
If you find how to solve, unsubscribe

The cheapest way is to buy jars on ebay. At the same time, the assembly will be welded to size. I ordered one assembly from Sanyo 2Ah for testing, it will go - I will repack all the accounts.

Kvost wrote:
The cheapest way is to buy jars on ebay. At the same time, the assembly will be welded to size. I ordered one assembly from Sanyo 2Ah for testing, it will go - I will repack all the accounts.

You can try to deceive the controller, it sees that the battery is discharged below the threshold and does not allow charging. If you slip the operating range voltage from the side, charging should begin.

Now it turned out that they worked a little with a screwdriver on the street in winter at sub-zero temperatures, which seems to be the reason for the failure of the cans. I measured the voltage on the battery - 10.5V. On a working fully charged battery 16.1V.I'll try to disassemble the banks and swing each one, it might work. The battery is relatively fresh - half a year in total

Lithium batteries can only be swung by replacement

disassembled the battery today. Each section showed 2.3-2.4 V, i.e. the discharge exceeded the minimum threshold of 2.8-3 V. He threw the electronics back and charged it with a current of 100mA to a state of 14 Volts (it took about 2.5 hours). All cans were charged evenly. I soldered the electronics back and left it alone. After 10 hours, I measured the voltage again - it did not change, which means there are no shorties and the battery, in principle, should work. I put it in the charger - it still signals a damaged battery. The screwdriver itself works from this battery.
Questions: is it true that if, during forced charging, the voltage on all banks increases evenly and equally, then all of them are in good order, even in spite of their initial deep discharge? Could the electronics write to itself in its memory the state of low charge of the cans and now does not allow the charger to charge it?

oxion wrote:
Could the electronics write to itself in its memory the state of low charge of the cans and now does not allow the charger to charge it?

This is not a laptop battery. Or a micra (what is it called?) is covered, or the keys are transistor, or maybe the charger is buggy?

Everyone knows that the battery of a screwdriver sooner or later begins to lose its former performance and needs to be replaced. Usually, only a couple of elements in a common bundle "sit down", but this negatively affects the entire battery. Therefore, it becomes necessary to either replace several elements with new ones, or still change the battery pack completely. Since the complete set of any screwdriver - "Hitachi", "Makita" and other models - includes two batteries, if you wish, you can try to assemble a whole homemade battery from two. The owners of power tools, who use them all the time, sooner or later begin to wonder how to convert the battery of a screwdriver to lithium. As for the newcomers, who were puzzled by this goal for the first time, they first of all have a question about how to disassemble the battery from the Makita screwdriver or any other, so as not to damage the fragile plastic box.

Experienced electronics enthusiasts assemble different types of batteries, including power supplies for an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). This is much more difficult than disassembling the battery of an electric drill. Any drill is often produced with the so-called "non-separable" battery packs, which are either firmly sealed with tape around the perimeter, or their two parts fit so tightly to each other that, at first glance, it is impossible to disconnect them without causing forced external damage. However, among the craftsmen you can find people who have already thoroughly "got their hands on" with such batteries and can happily share their secrets with everyone.

In order to disassemble a battery from a Bosch screwdriver, Metabo or any other tool of 12 volts or more, you need to make some effort. If you just pick out the adjacent edges of the battery pack with a screwdriver, it will turn out to be sloppy. In addition, there is a greater risk that the fragile plastic structure will simply break.

Therefore, it is recommended to take a mallet and start gently tap on the edge of the seam until characteristic sounds appear , meaning that the seam itself begins to weaken on the sly. It will take a long time to knock, and it will take time and patience. But in just this way it is possible to ensure that the disassembly of the battery from the Makita screwdriver will be crowned with success, without unnecessary breakdowns and losses.

After a while, you will hear a crack of a breaking seam. The batteries themselves inside from such manipulations will not be damaged.Only the seam holding the block will break, and the "cans" and the two halves of the plastic case will remain unharmed.

When we take apart the block, you should knock on the body with a mallet lightly, without making any special efforts, so that it slightly bounces off the surface ... From time to time, between taps, you can try to slowly pull back the bottom cover of the block, thereby checking how much the seam has loosened. In such cases, the mallet itself will be slightly damaged, but there is nothing wrong with that.

When the clicks when tapping become regular, you should check the block with some thin knife, carefully inserting it between the halves of the case. When the two parts of the case begin to open, it will be visible - it means that we have almost achieved our goal.

It is worth warning right away that the battery packs of the 12-volt Makita screwdriver are often extremely strong and difficult to disassemble. But if you slowly work with a mallet, the seam on the glue will gradually begin to crumble. This may take ten minutes or more in time. But for a person with experience, the whole process takes no more than six minutes.

This is how, gradually and accurately, you can disassemble the screwdriver battery that the manufacturer deliberately made "non-removable" - in order not to change the batteries in it, but immediately run after a new one, which is expensive. Of course, this will require some skill and accuracy. But it will also save money, and at the same time learn how to disassemble the battery from the Makita screwdriver with your own hands.

For those who are not used to working with a mallet and want to make the battery disassembly process look quieter and more gentle, you can suggest using a small metal spatula or a utility knife. The main thing is that they do not have sharp edges, like a large screwdriver, which can easily damage plastic.

First, you should completely walk with a knife around the perimeter of the entire block in order to loosen the seam, and only after that you can start "picking out" the flexible plastic with a small screwdriver. The method is no less painstaking than the first, and if the person is not experienced enough, damage may remain on the plastic case. However, if you work as carefully as possible, it is possible to do without "losses" in this case.

If, when disassembling the battery pack, you still have cracks or other damage, you should not be upset, because this type of plastic lends itself well to gluing with dichloroethane.

It so happens that the best way out of a situation when both batteries are "hooked" is a way to assemble one full-fledged battery of two. Using any of the proposed methods, you can disassemble both blocks in order to understand which elements are suitable for further use and which should be discarded.For this you will need:

two batteries;

Charger;

any thin and flat screwdriver;

scalpel;

a piece of sandpaper;

two wires;

load resistance (two are possible);

voltmeter for voltage measurements.

Before disassembling the units, be sure to charge them well. With subsequent voltage measurements, this is exactly what will make it possible to understand which batteries are "live" and which are not. Before charging the batteries, it is recommended clean the internal contacts of the charger emery paper, because any contact resistance can "give out" an incorrect charging process.When you charge both batteries alternately, pay attention to how fast they charge. If the battery is charged quickly, and the charge indicator signals the end of the process after just a few minutes, this means that the battery definitely contains faulty cells.And of course, when the battery charges too slowly, or does not take current at all, it should definitely be disassembled and "tested" all the batteries that are inside. Read more about the charging time of the screwdriver battery →After you charge and disassemble your battery pack, you will see that there are several elements inside it - cans. The number may vary depending on the voltage level of your instrument. Banks are connected in a certain series. Inside there is a thermal sensor brought out to the contact plates.If the signal from the temperature sensor going to the charger is incorrect, then the battery will receive either an undercharge or an overcharge. Both are highly undesirable for the battery and adversely affect its performance. This is why it is strongly recommended to clean the contacts before charging both batteries.Let's work with the load resistance. As already mentioned, you can take two, each with a nominal value of 1 ohm. If we put both of them in parallel, then the total resistance we get 0.5 Ohm. It is not necessary to adhere to these ratings, but the less resistance, the better.What is the role of load resistors in qualitatively replacing the battery pack? If we take any electrical appliance and measure the voltage indicator in its battery, we will get a certain value. However, this value does not show how well a particular battery can give up its energy. If we measure the voltage under load, we will have what is called a "voltage drop". It is just from it that you can judge how good or bad the battery is. The load resistance in the form of two small metal blanks and wires connected in parallel to each other is carefully connected to a voltmeter. This loading method is acceptable only if the output voltage of your battery is 12 volts or less (safety voltage level).The wires are neatly fixed in the "sockets" of the voltmeter with probes, and a constant voltage threshold of 20 volts is set on the voltmeter. This indicator is quite enough to measure U for the entire bunch of elements as a whole and for each element separately, which is especially important.Before measuring the voltage of the cells, prepare a simple pencil with which you will write down the value of U issued by each battery in the bundle. Since in most cases "walking" screwdrivers are equipped with nickel-cadmium batteries packed in dense cardboard layers, it is important to ensure that the batteries are accessible from both sides.Now it remains to turn on the voltmeter (or multimeter) and start measuring. When measuring, we make each battery an exposure for five seconds and see if the voltage drops (usually it is normally about 1.2 volts for each battery separately). We fix the indicators with a pencil. It is impossible to keep the probes on batteries for a long time, because the resistance increases, and they can simply burn out. Practice shows that one has only to fail one element from the entire bundle, this negatively affects the operation of all batteries. If the voltage indicator on any "bank" is 1 volt or less, it has already exhausted its resource. In order to finally make sure of this, you should check the self-discharge level of each battery in the bundle.Repeated measurements are taken after 15 minutes. When measuring, be sure to check the primary U values with repeated ones. If it turns out that there are batteries, the voltage of which, after the initial measurements, dropped sharply during the second measurement, it means that they have a high self-discharge, and it is these elements that have finally become unusable.After the unusable elements are "calculated", we disconnect them from the rest with a scalpel, and in their place we put usable batteries from a spare battery. So we redo the whole block, collecting one full-fledged one out of two.Soldering should be done by spot welding using a regular aspirin tablet. It is impossible to solder one element directly to another: any heating causes evaporation of the electrolyte and a rise in temperature, which can be critical for the battery.When disassembling the bundle and soldering, it is important not to lose metal particles, which may be indispensable when soldering the elements together. To be on the safe side, you can take care of how to make blanks of spare plates from bending metal in advance. It is important to remember the following: the better I solder, the better the battery will work.

Aspirin gives off a lot of corrosive fumes, so work in a well-ventilated area. A soft fusible composition with flowing properties is taken as a solder. The solder is sprinkled with aspirin powder, so it flows between the plates and connects them securely, and aspirin helps to fix the composition in the right place.The assembled battery is installed in the case, and the operation of the screwdriver is checked. If the tool is running, the newly assembled battery is charged as usual and its functionality is checked again. If no drop in RPM is observed for the instrument, this means that the experiment was successful. Since nickel-cadmium batteries work for a long time with proper operation, there is a chance that a new bundle assembled with your own hands will not fail, and a self-made screwdriver battery will work properly.Let's talk about how to convert the battery yourself from one type of battery to another. There are many videos on this topic on the Internet, where it is said a lot about what advantages there are if it is lithium in the screwdriver. However, if you do not use the tool intensively and constantly, there is absolutely no point in a lithium battery. Lithium-ion batteries tend to “age” more quickly than cadmium, and simply do not have time to develop their resource under the conditions if the tool is used from time to time.

I look at the reviews people like to read, I also decided to drop a small photo-review of the Makita UT1250 mixer. I think it will be useful to many and will protect them from dubious purchases.
To begin with, a description from the site. I will not give a link, Google finds it without problems.
“Electric mixer Makita UT1250 is an irreplaceable tool in construction and repair business. With it, you can easily mix paint, mortar, plaster, glue and much more. The tool has comfortable grips, which guarantees a secure grip when working. It is also worth noting a reliable mechanical gearbox made in an aluminum alloy casing. The key to long-term and trouble-free operation of Makita UT1250 is a large motor power (2000W), reliability of the gear unit and high quality of components and materials. "
There is also about the guarantee and the manufacturer. I think this is not so important anymore, although it is interesting.
The mixer looks like a mixer, nothing special. The handles are comfortable, no doubt about it.

power of 2 kW is the guarantee of long-term and trouble-free operation. Well, yes.

The cable is frankly bullshit, there was no frost yet, but it had already peeled off all over.

The fork also did not heat up nirazu.

That's what I liked, that here the Makitovites thought over and finally made the cover for the button separately from the entire part of the case, which is very convenient when disassembling and replacing the button. Not like the shitty Chinese usually have that you need to unscrew the entire handle entirely.

The button is really some kind of completely flawed, Makitovites obviously saved

And the contacts are reliably made, not warmed up nirazu.

Go ahead. The reliability of the gear unit and the high quality of the components are declared. There is even nothing special to comment on.

The gear is on a key and dangles on the shaft like g. But in the hole (C)

I was surprised by the variety of bearings that Makitov residents used in this device.
this is the "well-known" PIT

And also WTOO, Andryukha I know praised more than once, so the bearings are exactly what you need.

And even with a plastic separator, just a masterpiece. what a good fellow Makitov.

At anchor in general, the bearings are just a bomb!

On the engine, the Makitovites also clearly saved money, a Chinese trace is clearly visible. Or Latvian, I don't know how to do it right. But in the description, the components are declared of high quality. Whether to believe this, let everyone decide for himself. Only about 2 kW is clearly too much.