Bl1013 makita DIY repair

Details: bl1013 makita do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

you better tell me, if there is a charger for the Makita lithium-ion battery, then apparently I can charge them with AA batteries?

Can screwdrivers be used?

Very inconvenient, severely damage the body.

Banks can be bought in Leroy:

tell me what could be the reason? makita dc10wa charger from the beginning charges the batteries and after a minute shows that the banks are dead (red-green flashes) on the same dc10wa charger I charge the same batteries and everything is fine! (batteries and new and used tried)

jon ito i have the same problem and don't know why

I have a 10.8 volt eichel battery was discharged to zero, I restored it with imax each bank, all 3 banks hold about 4 volts, but now charging does not take it

please tell me what part number to use to unscrew the screws?

asdasdda qweqwe.
I have 2 Shuriks bought from officials with a spread of a couple of years, both have 2 batteries in the kit and on all the cover is attached to 2 screws and 1 latch.

if you have then it's fake

thanks for the answer, but I have, I will think, it turns out I won’t need small wedges

There are no self-tapping screws in these batteries, everything is latched.

Is it possible to make a clip for 18650 from an old battery? in order to insert 18650 that fell under the arm into it, and it is already in Shurik.

+lkjhgfd36 Then no problem, create contacts inside, use the opening scheme through the holes in the back cover, it's easier to open.

the point is just to charge the 18650 in some other charger, let's say something like BT-C3100 and already charged to fill in the clip.

Video (click to play).

It is possible, only banks need to be taken of a similar capacity, since the charger (standard) will charge them all to the battery rating. And of course you need to remember to solder everything that was inside and how it was or charging it will not be seen. Well, or the second option is to solder a 3 Ah capacity there and charge it from a universal charger.

I understand, thank you.

tell me, can I put 3 ampere batteries instead of 1.3? thanks

I bought a 2000 mAh battery from the Chinese. Standard charging recognizes them as faulty and does not charge. They sit in the screwdriver like family and work properly. How to solve the problem with charging?

IMHO, a regular memory will see and charge. Just up to 10.8 V., but you also need to take into account the fact that during operation, the accounts in the “bank” will slowly unbalance. That is, if we take these same 10.8 V. for the face value of the “banks”, then each of the batteries should be charged up to 3.6 V., respectively. But during operation, some of the batteries in the “bank” sink more than others, and during charging, due to the difference in their own charges, memory errors can come out. But, if the memory has a charge balancer, then all of the above becomes invalid. Accs in the “bank” will be balanced during the charge. In general, lithium-ion batteries of size 18650 can be charged up to two thresholds: 4.25 V. and 4.35 V. In this case, there is a threshold of 4.25 V. And if you change the batteries in the “bank”, then I think it’s worth look aside:
1. LG HG2 3000mAh 4.2V 20A INR18650HG2
2. Samsung 30Q 3000mAh 4.2V 20A INR18650-30Q
And, if the charger has a charge balancer, then it doesn’t care what capacity it has to fill, it’s just that the process of charging the “can” will increase by the very difference between 1300 and 3000 mAh, depending on the capabilities of the charger, how much current it charges. Something like this.

It's easy, but most likely the regular charger will not see them, and if it does, it will charge to a capacity much less than the nominal value.

hello, tell me the thickness of the positive plate on the battery, they send it from China, it seems like the original, but the positive plate is thin

For modern cans, rather weak. The discrepancy between the characteristics was observed in old cans and under the limiting discharge currents for cans.However, I don’t remember such a drop in branded cans even if they do not correspond to the face value.

declared capacity 2400
actually after 10 cycles charge discharge 2000
bought on herbest

I had to cut off a plus to measure 🙂 0.6 mm, I have a lot of individual cans cut from old batteries, still working. Minus everywhere as in the photo https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/345/s/3GcnVfo pos. No. 2

1 china
2 original
negative contact
positive contact

Plate thickness on the main contacts inside 0.4 mm, auxiliary contacts 0.1 mm, connecting plates, for cans 0.05 mm. The width of the main contact is 4.5 mm. Maybe not that, did not understand the question?

tell me the marking, I want to disassemble and buy to replace it with Ali.

Dmitry Sidorov thank you very much

BL1013 battery #112714HC has SE US18650VT cans
They can be replaced by any 18650 with similar current characteristics (more is possible, but not less), here the current is up to 15 Amperes, the main thing is not to buy from a laptop, they are identical in size and have low current parameters and are not suitable for powerful consumers.

I want to buy a Makita HP330DWE for home needs, it has just such batteries, can you share your operating experience?

It’s normal for the house, the model is built on the basis of the older Makita 8281D (strike part) and Makita DF 030D everything else, it inherited a design feature from the latter in the form of a slight backlash of the cartridge, some don’t like it, but it doesn’t affect reliability in any way. The impact part is designed for occasional use, you can drill a hole up to 8 mm in diameter in everything except heavy concrete, meeting with the main filler in the form of crushed granite almost guarantees drilling to stop, while you can’t push too hard, not a kilowatt drill. It drills already 10 mm in a tree with a noticeable strain, here again we can talk about the episodic nature of such holes at home. The batteries are reliable, I have 8 of these from different tools, the oldest one is 2009, the newest one is 2012, all are alive. I use them mainly on a saw with an 85 mm disc, a jigsaw, a vacuum cleaner. It must be said that the batteries are not the strongest, in the dry they lose comparative tests for the number of wrapped screws (the real capacity is not enough), but everything works for years. Here you still need to know about the new line of batteries that is replacing this series, in the USA everyone is already sold with the new series, it is much more capacious. But I think about us it will get at best in a couple of years (in the mass segment)

Good day.
For half a year already the second accumulator fails.
Battery BL1430 (14.4V, 3.0Ah, 44Wh) from a makita BDF 343 RFE screwdriver, equipped with DC18RC S smart charger
Charger and screwdriver are fully functional.
When the battery is installed on the charger, the red and green lights flash alternately and an audible signal is heard.
Inside the battery there is a controller board containing several chips with unreadable markings.
Who faced with the repair of such batteries, what could be the reason?

The battery BL1830 from a friend 2 pieces failed (from different parties and countries), the reason was not found, they bought a new one. They went out of order most likely from the lack (or incorrect operation of the protection against battery discharge) killed on a circular saw and a saber. There was a Temka. If you find how to solve, unsubscribe. The call is not good and I will not take the Makita ruler (18 volts)

Nemes wrote:
If you find a solution please post.

The cheapest way to buy cans is on ebay. At the same time, the assembly will be welded to size. I ordered one assembly from Sanyo 2Ah for testing, it will go - I will repack all the acc.

Quost wrote:
The cheapest way to buy cans is on ebay. At the same time, the assembly will be welded to size. I ordered one assembly from Sanyo 2Ah for testing, it will go - I will repack all the acc.

You can try to deceive the controller, it sees that the battery is discharged below the threshold and does not allow charging to start. If you slip the operating range voltage from the side, charging should begin.

Now it turned out that they worked a little with a screwdriver in the winter on the street at sub-zero temperatures, which, it seems, was the reason for the failure of the cans. I measured the voltage on the battery - 10.5V. On a working fully charged battery 16.1V.I'll try to sort through the banks and shake each one, maybe it will work. The battery is relatively fresh - half a year in total

Lithium batteries can only be pumped by replacement

Took the battery apart today. Each section showed 2.3-2.4 V, i.e. the discharge exceeded the minimum threshold of 2.8-3 V. I threw off the electronics and charged with a current of 100mA to a state of 14 volts (it took about 2.5 hours). All banks were evenly charged. Soldered the electronics back and left alone. After 10 hours, I again measured the voltage - it has not changed, which means there are no short stacks and the battery, in principle, should work. I put it in the charger - it still signals a damaged battery. The screwdriver itself works from this battery.
Questions: is it true that if, during forced charging, the voltage on all banks increases evenly and equally, then they are all serviceable, even despite their initial deep discharge? Could the electronics have memorized the state of a low charge of the cans and now does not allow the charger to charge it?

oxyon wrote:
Could the electronics have memorized the state of a low charge of the cans and now does not allow the charger to charge it?

this is not a laptop battery. either the micro (what is it called?) is covered or the transistor keys, or maybe the charger is buggy?

Everyone knows that the battery of a screwdriver sooner or later begins to lose its former performance and needs to be replaced. Usually only a couple of elements in a common bundle “sits down”, but this negatively affects the entire battery. Therefore, it becomes necessary to either replace several cells with new ones, or still change the battery pack completely. Since the package of any screwdriver - "Hitachi", "Makita" and other models - includes two batteries, if you wish, you can try to assemble a whole home-made battery from two. Owners of power tools who use them constantly, sooner or later begin to wonder how to convert the battery of a screwdriver to lithium. As for beginners who are puzzled by this goal for the first time, they first of all have the question of how to disassemble the battery from a Makita screwdriver or any other, so as not to damage the fragile plastic box.

Experienced electronics enthusiasts collect different types of batteries, including power supplies for an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). This is much more difficult than disassembling the battery of an electric drill. Any drill is often produced with so-called "non-separable" battery packs, which are either firmly sealed with adhesive tape around the perimeter, or two of their parts fit so tightly together that, at first glance, they cannot be disconnected without causing forced external damage. However, among craftsmen you can also meet such people who have already thoroughly “knocked their hand” on such batteries and can gladly share secrets with everyone.

In order to disassemble the battery from a Bosch screwdriver, Metabo, or any other tool for 12 volts or more, you need to make some effort. If you just pick open the edges of the battery pack adjacent to each other with a screwdriver, it will turn out sloppy. In addition, there is a greater risk that the fragile plastic construction will simply break.

Therefore, it is recommended to take a mallet and start gently tap on the edge of the seam until characteristic sounds appear , meaning that the seam itself begins to slowly weaken. It will take a long time to knock, and this will take time and patience. But it is in this way that it is possible to ensure that disassembling the battery from the Makita screwdriver will be successful, without unnecessary breakdowns and losses.

After a while, the crack of a breaking seam will be heard. The batteries themselves inside from such manipulations will not be damaged.Only the seam holding the block will break, and the “cans” and two halves of the plastic case will remain intact.

When we disassemble the block, hitting the body with a mallet should be light, without much effort, so that it slightly bounces off the surface . From time to time between taps, you can try to slowly pull back the bottom cover of the block, thereby checking how loose the seam is. In such cases, perhaps the mallet itself will be slightly damaged, but there is nothing wrong with that.

When the clicks when tapping become regular, you should check the block with some thin knife, carefully inserting it between the body halves. When the two parts of the hull begin to open, it will be visible - it means that we have almost achieved our goal.

It’s worth warning right away that the battery packs of the Makita 12-volt screwdriver are often extremely strong and difficult to disassemble. But if you slowly work with a mallet, the seam on the glue will gradually begin to crumble. In time, this may take ten minutes or more. But for a person with experience, the whole process takes no more than six minutes.

This is how, gradually and carefully, you can disassemble the screwdriver battery, which the manufacturer intentionally made “non-removable” - in order not to change the batteries in it, but immediately run for a new one, which is expensive. Of course, this will require some skill and accuracy. But it will also save money, and at the same time learn how to disassemble the battery from the Makita screwdriver with your own hands.

For those who are not used to working with a mallet and want the process of disassembling the battery to look quieter and more gentle, you can suggest using a small metal spatula or a clerical knife. The main thing is that they do not have sharp edges, like a large screwdriver, which can easily damage the plastic.

First, you should completely go around the perimeter of the entire block with a knife to loosen the seam, and only after that you can start “picking” the flexible plastic with a small screwdriver. The method is no less painstaking than the first, and if the person is not experienced enough, damage to the plastic case may remain. However, if you work as carefully as possible, it is possible to do without “losses” in this case as well.

If, when disassembling the battery pack, you still have cracks or other damage, you should not be upset, because this type of plastic lends itself perfectly to gluing with dichloroethane.

It happens that the best way out of the situation when both batteries are “hooked up” is a way to assemble one full-fledged battery from two. Using any of the proposed methods, you can disassemble both blocks in order to understand which elements are suitable for further use and which should be thrown away.For this you will need:

two batteries;

Charger;

any thin and flat screwdriver;

scalpel;

a piece of sandpaper;

two wires;

load resistance (two are possible);

voltmeter for measuring voltage.

Before disassembling the blocks, they must be well charged. With subsequent voltage measurements, this is what will make it possible to understand which batteries are “live” and which are not. Before charging batteries, it is recommended clean the internal contacts of the charger sandpaper, because any contact resistance can "give out" the wrong charging process.When you charge both batteries in turn, pay attention to how fast they charge. If the battery charged quickly, and the charge indicator signals the end of the process in just a few minutes, this means that the battery definitely has faulty cells.And of course, when the battery charges too slowly, or does not take current at all, it should definitely be disassembled and “tested” all the batteries that are inside. Read more about the battery charging time of the screwdriver →After you charge and disassemble your battery pack, you will see that there are several elements inside it - cans. Their number may vary, depending on the voltage level of your instrument. Banks are connected in a certain series. Inside there is a temperature sensor, displayed on the contact plates.If the signal from the temperature sensor going to the charger is incorrect, then the battery will either be undercharged or overcharged. Both are highly undesirable for the battery and adversely affect its performance. It is for this reason that it is highly recommended to clean the contacts before charging both batteries.Let's work with load resistance. As already mentioned, you can take two, with a face value of 1 ohm each. If we put them both in parallel, then the total resistance we get is 0.5 Ohm. It is not necessary to adhere to these values, but the less resistance, the better.What is the role of load resistances in replacing the battery pack with quality? If we take any electrical appliance and measure the voltage indicator in its battery, we will get a certain value. However, this value does not show how well a particular battery can give off its energy. If we measure the voltage under load, we will have what is called "voltage sag". From it, you can just judge how good or bad the battery is. The load resistance in the form of two small metal blanks and wires connected in parallel to each other is carefully connected to the voltmeter. This method of loading is acceptable only if your battery output voltage is no more than 12 volts (safe voltage level).The wires are carefully fixed in the "sockets" of the voltmeter with probes, and a constant voltage threshold of 20 volts is set on the voltmeter. This indicator is quite enough to measure U for the entire bundle of elements as a whole and for each element individually, which is especially important.Before measuring the voltage of the cells, prepare a simple pencil with which you will write down the U value given by each battery in the bundle. Since in most cases "running" screwdrivers are equipped with nickel-cadmium batteries packed in dense layers of cardboard, it is important to ensure that the batteries are accessible from both sides.Now it remains to turn on the voltmeter (or multimeter) and start measuring. When measuring, we hold each battery for five seconds and see if the voltage drops (usually it is normally about 1.2 volts for each battery separately). We fix the indicators with a pencil. You can’t keep the probes on batteries for a long time, because the resistance increases, and they can simply burn out. Practice shows that as soon as one element out of the entire bundle fails, this negatively affects the operation of all batteries. If the voltage indicator on any “bank” is 1 volt or less, it has already exhausted its resource. In order to finally verify this, you should check the self-discharge level of each battery in the bundle.Repeated measurements are carried out after 15 minutes. When measuring, be sure to check the primary indicators U with repeated ones. If it turns out that there are batteries, the voltage of which, after the initial measurements, dropped sharply during the second measurement, it means that they have a high self-discharge, and it is these elements that have finally become unusable.After the unusable elements are “calculated”, we disconnect them from the rest with a scalpel, and in their place we put good batteries from a spare battery.And so we remake the entire block, collecting one full-fledged one from two.Soldering should be done by spot welding using a regular aspirin tablet. It is impossible to solder one element directly to another: any heating causes the evaporation of the electrolyte and an increase in temperature, which can be critical for the battery.When disassembling the bundle and soldering, it is important not to lose metal particles, which can be indispensable when soldering the elements together. To be safe, you can take care in advance how to make blanks of spare plates from bending metal. It is important to remember this: the better I solder, the better the battery will work.

Aspirin gives off a lot of corrosive fumes, so you should work in a well-ventilated area. As a solder, a soft, fusible composition with flowing properties is taken. The solder is sprinkled with aspirin powder, so it flows between the plates and securely connects them, and the aspirin helps to fix the composition in the right place.The assembled battery is installed in the case, and the operation of the screwdriver is checked. If the tool is working, the newly assembled battery is charged as usual and its function is checked again. If the tool does not drop in speed, this means that the experiment was a success. Since nickel-cadmium batteries work for a long time with proper operation, there is a chance that a new bundle assembled by oneself will not fail, and a DIY battery for a screwdriver will work properly.Let's talk about how to remake the battery yourself from one type of battery to another. There are many videos on the Internet on this topic, where a lot is said about what advantages there are if lithium is in the screwdriver. However, if you do not use the tool intensively and constantly, there is absolutely no point in a lithium battery. Lithium-ion batteries have the property of “aging” faster than cadmium, and simply do not have time to work out their resource under conditions if the tool is used from time to time.

I look at reviews people like to read, I also decided to drop a small photo review of the Makita UT1250 mixer. I think many will be useful and protect against dubious purchases.
To start with a description from the site. I will not give a link, Google finds it without problems.
“Electric mixer Makita UT1250 is an indispensable tool in the construction and repair business. With it, you can easily mix paint, mortar, plaster, glue and much more. The tool has comfortable handles, which guarantees a secure grip when working. It is also worth noting a reliable mechanical gearbox, made in an aluminum alloy case. The key to long and trouble-free operation of the Makita UT1250 is the high motor power (2000W), the reliability of the gearbox assembly, as well as the high quality of components and materials.”
There's more about the warranty and the manufacturer is. I think it's not so important, although interesting.
The mixer looks like a mixer, nothing special. The handles are comfortable, no doubt about it.

power of 2 kW is a guarantee of long and trouble-free operation. Well, yes.

The cable is frank bullshit, there were no frosts yet, but it was already all peeled off.

The fork never got hot either.

That's what I liked, that here the Makitovites thought over and finally made a cover for the button separately from the entire part of the case, which is very convenient when disassembling and replacing the button. Not like shitty Chinese usually have to unscrew the entire handle.

The button is really kind of really flawed, the Makitovites obviously saved

And the contacts are reliably made, they did not warm up at all.

Go ahead. The reliability of the gearbox assembly and the high quality of the components are declared. There isn't even much to comment on here.

The gear is on the key and dangles on the shaft like a g. but in the hole (C)

I was surprised by the variety of bearings that Makitov used in this device
this and the “well-known” PIT

And also WTOO, I know Andryukha praised more than once, which means that the bearings are exactly what you need.

Yes, and with a plastic separator, just a masterpiece. what Makitovtsy fellows.

At anchor, in general, bearings are just a bomb!

The Makitovites also obviously saved money on the engine, a Chinese trace is clearly visible. Or Latvian, I don't know how. But in the description, the components are of high quality. Whether to believe this, let everyone decide for himself. Only about 2 kW is clearly overkill.

The brushes are crappy, the springs are tight. The cord has already become stiff from overheating on one brush and will soon fall off.

What can I say in the end. Anyone who buys this kind of makita is either a complete loshara or an idiot. Yeees. as they say now - makita is not the same.

They brought PT Devolt702 ku, s, type 1 for repair. I looked at Dyatko in detail, it is there but type 2, the question arises, are their anchors interchangeable? If anyone knows please tell me.

Replacing the keyless chuck on a Panasonic screwdriver

If the chuck of your screwdriver has become bad at holding bits or sticking, then you need to disassemble it,
clean and replace detent balls or replace completely with bushing and spring

If you do not have a special tool (opening tool) at hand, then you can get by with two small slotted screwdrivers

We lower the sleeve of the cartridge down and insert a screwdriver on both sides, we hook the retaining ring with one screwdriver

Remove the retaining ring, then remove the spring and pull out the bushing

And carefully pull out the balls

After that, you can clean everything and put new parts

This is how I fixed my faulty makita battery , in the video I said the old battery 18650 has been superseded it hasn't the battery's I used are commonly found in e-cigarette Sony vtc 4 limn and have a higher ah rating than the originals . Music by joakim karud dreams

❏ Today I will show you a universal and irreplaceable device that will make your work easier and save your time working in a garage, cottage or workshop! Affiliate program:

There are three batteries Makita BL1013, AEG L1215, Elitech 1820.002800

I've only seen these in pictures.

+ Dmitry Sidorov, assault 14.4 c. Four. Without bolts. with the same holes

At Makita from 10.8 V, there are only three or six (four-ampere slider) The slider for 2 and 4 Ah is disassembled with a Torx screwdriver.

congratulations from Serbia 🙂

I have original batteries with screws for a Torx TR 10 bit. Perhaps without screws it is a fake.

There are no such batteries (with screws) in the Makita dealership.

today I opened the same jar and there were 2 screws and a latch under the sticker

This is not Makita, there were no screws there.

you better tell me, if there is a charger for the Makita lithium-ion battery, then apparently I can charge them with AA batteries?

Can screwdrivers be used?

Very inconvenient, severely damage the body.

Banks can be bought in Leroy:

jon ito i have the same problem and don't know why

I have a 10.8 volt eichel battery was discharged to zero, I restored it with imax each bank, all 3 banks hold about 4 volts, but now charging does not take it

please tell me what part number to use to unscrew the screws?

asdasdda qweqwe. I have 2 Shuriks bought from officials with a spread of a couple of years, both have 2 batteries in the kit and on all the cover is attached to 2 screws and 1 latch.

if you have then it's fake

thanks for the answer, but I have, I will think, it turns out I won’t need small wedges

There are no self-tapping screws in these batteries, everything is latched.

Is it possible to make a clip for 18650 from an old battery? in order to insert 18650 that fell under the arm into it, and it is already in Shurik.

+lkjhgfd36 Then no problem, create contacts inside, use the opening scheme through the holes in the back cover, it's easier to open.

the point is just to charge the 18650 in some other charger, let's say something like BT-C3100 and already charged to fill in the clip.

I understand, thank you.

tell me, can I put 3 ampere batteries instead of 1.3? thanks

IMHO, a regular memory will see and charge. Just up to 10.8 V., but you also need to take into account the fact that during operation, the accounts in the “bank” will slowly unbalance. That is, if we take these same 10.8 V. for the face value of the “banks”, then each of the batteries should be charged up to 3.6 V., respectively. But during operation, some of the batteries in the “bank” sink more than others, and during charging, due to the difference in their own charges, memory errors can come out. But, if the memory has a charge balancer, then all of the above becomes invalid. Accs in the “bank” will be balanced during the charge.In general, lithium-ion batteries of size 18650 can be charged up to two thresholds: 4.25 V. and 4.35 V. In this case, there is a threshold of 4.25 V. And if you change the batteries in the “bank”, then I think it’s worth look aside: 1. LG HG2 3000mAh 4.2V 20A INR18650HG2 2. Samsung 30Q 3000mAh 4.2V 20A INR18650-30Q for the very difference between 1300 and 3000 mAh, depending on the capabilities of the charger, how much current it charges. Something like this.

It's easy, but most likely the regular charger will not see them, and if it does, it will charge to a capacity much less than the nominal value.

hello, tell me the thickness of the positive plate on the battery, they send it from China, it seems like the original, but the positive plate is thin

For modern cans, rather weak. The discrepancy between the characteristics was observed in old cans and under the limiting discharge currents for cans. However, I don’t remember such a drop in branded cans even if they do not correspond to the face value.

declared capacity 2400 in fact after 10 cycles charge discharge 2000 bought on herbest

I had to cut off a plus to measure 🙂 0.6 mm, I have many individual cans cut from old batteries, still working. Minus everywhere as in the photo https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/345/s/3GcnVfo pos. No. 2

1 china 2 original negative contact positive contact

tell me the marking, I want to disassemble and buy to replace it with Ali.

Dmitry Sidorov thank you very much

The BL1013 battery No. 112714HC has banks marked SE US18650VT They can be replaced with any 18650 with similar current characteristics (more is possible, but not less), here the current is up to 15 amperes, the main thing is not to buy from a laptop, they are identical in size and have low current parameters , and are not suitable for powerful consumers.

I want to buy Makita HP330DWE for home needs, it has exactly such batteries, can you share your operating experience?

It’s normal for the house, the model is built on the basis of the older Makita 8281D (shock part) and Makita DF 030D everything else, it inherited a design feature from the latter in the form of a slight backlash of the cartridge, some don’t like it, but it doesn’t affect reliability in any way. The impact part is designed for occasional use, you can drill a hole up to 8 mm in diameter in everything except heavy concrete, meeting with the main filler in the form of crushed granite almost guarantees drilling to stop, while you can’t push too hard, not a kilowatt drill. It drills already 10 mm in a tree with a noticeable strain, here again we can talk about the episodic nature of such holes at home. The batteries are reliable, I have 8 of these from different tools, the oldest one is 2009, the newest one is 2012, all are alive. I use them mainly on a saw with an 85 mm disc, a jigsaw, a vacuum cleaner. It must be said that the batteries are not the strongest, in the dry they lose comparative tests for the number of wrapped screws (the real capacity is not enough), but everything works for years. Here you still need to know about the new line of batteries that is replacing this series, in the USA everyone is already sold with the new series, it is much more capacious. But I think about us it will get at best in a couple of years (in the mass segment)

Like, tomorrow I'll try to make it out, but what's next? My batteries reach, can they be restored somehow?

How do these lithium batteries perform? are there any complaints? thanks!

There are no electronics, you can replace the jar with a 90% success rate. I have not repaired such ones yet, there was no need, the last time I changed the jar to an 18 V Ryobi battery, lithium-ion, successfully.

Dmitry Sidorov Really? Makita part also easy to find on my country too and they last longer. I’m planning to sell Makita battery adapter 7.2v,9.6v,12v,14.4v&18v nicad convert to lithium ion battery ,so the old Makita tool can use lithium ion battery.

Video (click to play).

Yes, like this tool simple in design, and it can be repaired on their own, and in Russia parts Makita easy to buy and they are inexpensive as compared to other brands.

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