Blender brown 600 watt turbo DIY repair

xarl,

There is such a part inside, I tried to crank it, but there maybe some kind of key is needed in the form of a tube with an internal diameter of 21 cm in which there would be 4 protrusions, they can probably turn this part!

There may be a fuse in the winding, or the winding itself has fallen off somewhere, because it warmed up then be healthy (in front of a coma!).

I raised the topic earlier. Conclusion - nothing, if after disassembly it must assemble and work. I don't remember the details.

vovanfun, this part will not turn. You will understand after you disassemble it with a more barbaric method.
I was seduced, I cut out the key with a specialist.

Klinanuli engines - already 2 pieces have passed through my hands with a similar defect - in one only a resistor, in the other there is also a symistor to a heap and the track is burnt. In the second, the owners admitted that the device was jammed, but they did not turn it off immediately.

Today I disassembled the same blender, only with a slightly different number: Type: 4191

I'll start from the end: there was a problem with the transfer of rotation to the working body. All the advisers began to talk about gears, so there was not even a thought, there are no gears! And accordingly there was nothing to break, except for a black piece, through which rotation is transmitted to the working body. There is a notch on the shaft, and this black plastic wiped off when the blender jammed. But she did not want to shoot, as the melted plastic flowed out above the notch, and formed a side there.

And now about the disassembly itself (since there are no pictures, I will indicate the diameters and other sizes of the places that need to be picked - at least some kind of reference point:

... Attention, do not try to twist a crap made of yellow-transparent plastic that looks like a nut with four protrusions, as advised at the beginning of the topic. This is part of the engine body, and it is firmly clamped by iron clamps-locks. There will be nothing for the clamps, and you can pull out the plastic from there "with meat" as you can't do. ...

1. You still need to remove the white, tapered part, on which the model is stamped, and other numbers. Without this, the destruction of the hulls will be terrible.
To remove it, you need to take a screwdriver and from above, insert a screwdriver into the gap (its diameter is 28 mm) between the outer and inner white cone and with careful movements try to crush the inner cylinder “towards the center”, and in the outer cylinder at the same time you need to try to flatten the ring ( only it holds the outer cone-cylinder, not counting the locking buttons). And at the same time, you need to pull this part up. I would not recommend scrolling, since there are edges inside this structure - they break at the same time. The inner cylinder is flexible enough that it quickly takes on the old shape. ... In general, you need to somehow pull out the outer cylinder-cone.

2. Now you can, like other people, pick the glue seam between the THIN blender body and the inner cylinder. The seam is very strong, and if it remains glued at least at one point, then the engine cannot be knocked out with a hammer. As soon as the seam is broken, the cone, together with the motor, will EASILY fall out of the body. They are not afraid of damage to the wires - they are not there. All electrical connections are spring-loaded and solder-free.

3. If you suddenly go to separate the white cylinder from the engine, then I came up with, albeit not an ideal technology, but better than complete destruction. The white cylinder is held on to the yellow-transparent plastic of the engine using the same ring as in item 1.
This ring is about 23-24mm from the top edge of the white cylinder. Carefully cut off the plastic from both sides with a knife (otherwise it will not work - there are two ribs that are needed for some reason) so that the groove can be seen. And we put a screwdriver in there to loosen the ring. Somehow the white top hat will come off.

4. I won't tell you how to properly disassemble the upper part (there are very hard latches, but thank God they are ordinary). I will just say that at first the cover-knob of the speed regulator is easily removed, and there you can see at least something.

Good afternoon, in a blender (I don't remember the model - 600W) the following problem: the motor works, but neither the knife nor the whisk rotates under load. Rotates at idle speed. Post-warranty repair, how much will it cost and how long will the repair take? Thank you.

Alexander user
July 4, 2011 at 01:51 AM #

Hello! I have the same problem. Blender 600W (Type: 4191). The motor operates in all power ranges, but neither the knife nor the whisk rotates under load. I suppose the problem is with the reducer. Post-warranty repair, how much will it cost and how long will the repair take? Thanks in advance.

Sergey user
July 27, 2011 at 11:46 PM #

Good day!
If you are in Kiev, go to the service center - st. Glubochitskaya, 53, office 404
Tel: 044-428-65-06.
In another city? Let us know, we will suggest the address of the service center.

Larisa Zagura user
November 4, 2011 at 20:30 #

Hello! B and my blender has the same problem. Blender 600W (Type: 6550 Multiqick profesional). The motor operates in all power ranges, but neither the knife nor the whisk rotates under load. Can it be repaired and how much will it cost to repair it?

Alla user
February 7, 2012 at 07:39 PM #

I advise, they charged 80 UAH from me for repairing this problem. enough for one week!
I took over the repair myself, pulled out the black drive on the bushing with thin pliers
and dripped a little glue, then put it back on the axle. And it worked.

Valya user
January 20, 2013 at 05:04 PM #

The reason that it does not spin under load is simple, on a black adapter (easily pulled out with the help of round-nose pliers) on the blender itself, the edges are licked, just put some paper or something at your discretion and everything works fine.

sergey user
June 17, 2013 at 03:54 PM #

Sergey and Valik have a huge respect and respect, I almost ruined this device into the trash, 6 seconds and everything works.

Eugene user
August 3, 2013 at 09:22 AM #

I put a cambric on the axis of the engine. Everything is working.

Artalex user
August 11, 2013 at 01:40 PM #

And the task is even more difficult: if the motor is running and all the attachments except the whisk (with which the cream for the cake is made? The problem is this: the motor turns
the nozzle itself, but the ik veins do not spin, but makes a crackle? I would have done it myself if I knew how the nozzle is disassembled. Who can help you? Dnipropetrovsk

vadim user
August 12, 2013 at 09:33 AM #

Good afternoon, Vadim!
These blenders are considered non-repairable and no spare parts are produced for them.
If it is not under warranty, I can only advise you to buy a new motor

Alexander moderator
12 August 2013 at 09:53 #

The motor works fine. Other attachments spin just fine too. Only this nozzle whisk does not rotate - it cracks, but the whisk itself does not rotate. I thought that the whisk could be disassembled, so I asked this question. I thought that I probably need to buy a new whisk or pick it up from someone whose blender is broken.
Thank you for responding to my appeal.

Vadim user
August 12, 2013 at 12:25 PM #

So it can be a problem in the gearbox from the whisk.
If with other attachments, if everything is good, then the problem is in it.

Alexander moderator
August 12, 2013 at 01:12 PM #

Most likely, indeed, the problem is in the gearbox.

Thanks for helping me figure out the problem.

Vadim user
November 28, 2013 at 08:44 PM #

I am looking for a motor block coupling
buy or tell me where to buy
Blender 600W

Julia user
November 29, 2013 at 09:50 AM #

Hello Julia.
Braun engine blocks are considered non-repairable and the manufacturer does not produce spare parts for them.
If the warranty is over, I can only offer a new motor unit.
There are homemade products that offer solutions, but this is not for us. We are the official Braun service!

Alexander moderator
March 14, 2014 at 12:09 PM #

My slots were ripped off. Put paper from a pack of cigarettes while it helped.

ivan user
September 11, 2014 at 14:21 #

Good afternoon, I need to fix the motor unit of the Brown blender, the problem at first was in turning it on (the button fell down), then it stopped turning on altogether.
Are you doing this kind of renovation?
Thank you

Lesya user
September 11, 2014 at 04:31 PM #

Motor units from Braun hand blenders are not repairable. A new one is bought - in the catalog.

IBS Service moderator
April 28, 2015 at 08:43 AM #

Hello, the adjustable switch button does not work, the turbo works, can you tell me what's the matter? Thanks.

Timur user
April 28, 2015 at 03:23 PM #

There are many options, but these motor units are not repairable.
Only a new one can offer - Braun 67051239.

Alexander moderator
August 24, 2015 at 11:44 am #

Hello! In the blender, all the attachments work, only the reducer, which is put on the bowl, has stopped working. The parts that are in the center of the gearbox do not spin (the knife is inserted there on one side, and the blender on the other side), I do not know what they are called.

Irina user
August 25, 2015 at 12:43 PM #

Alexander moderator
August 25, 2015 at 02:16 PM #

Can't you fix the old one?

Irina user
August 26, 2015 at 11:41 AM #

They are not repaired - a new one is bought.

Alexander moderator
November 1, 2015 at 09:07 AM #

Blender braun 600 turbo type 4191. The gear cover is broken, tell me the catalog number.

Alexander user
November 2, 2015 at 10:03 AM #

This model has 4 different bowls (in terms of volume) and, accordingly, reducer lids.
Look at the cup with two letters on the side wall and here are all the lids for this model. (by these letters you will find the necessary one)

Alexander moderator
August 22, 2016 at 11:28 PM #

Good day!
The gearbox (for whipping) and the grinder of the braun 600 watt turbo blender cannot be inserted into the electric motor after the nozzle (working shaft) has worked before. Can you tell me how to fix the problem?
Thank you for your prompt response!

Alla user
August 23, 2016 at 05:04 PM #

Alla user
August 9, 2017 at 11:28 am #

How long does it take to repair a blender? Are you going to the place?

Vasily user
August 10, 2017 at 01:14 PM #

Only to us you can bring to the service center or send by Nova Poshta.

Message Gorecvv 09 Jul 2012 15:42

... no there is nothing ..
PPC in vain only rubber removed ((((

NOT WHAT IS AN OPTION - ALSO AN OPTION)))

Message bolgar »28 Jul 2012 18:36

Message telect »17 Mar 2013 11:13

Message transfor »17 Mar 2013 11:55

Message telect »17 Mar 2013 12:30

Message transfor »17 Mar 2013 15:48

None, this is a double zener diode - two oppositely switched on.
The name in the color code or voltage on the case, full parameters in the datasheet or reference -
it knows like everything else:

Message telect »15 Sep 2013 18:50

I remembered that I still hadn't fixed it and decided to give it a second chance.
Everything rings out except for this blue element in the middle. what is this?

It does not ring, another one is the same on the other side and a 4W resistor in ceramic insulation. Tried to check with an ohmmeter. Did you do it right?

True, this 4-watt resistor is not for sale with us, there is only 5 watts. can I stick it in there?

Message transfor »15 Sep 2013 19:29

The blender can break down at any time, but don't rush to throw it away and run after a new one! If the screwdriver and electrical tape do not fall out of your hands, then first find out if it is possible in a particular case to repair the blender.

To talk in more detail, let's first understand the types of blenders. Studying the design of the blender will make it easier to disassemble and further diagnose a breakdown.

The English word "blender" is translated "mixer, stirrer". The blender is halfway between the mixer and the food processor. From the first he got the whisk for mixing, from the second - the knives for chopping.

This kitchen unit is a fairly simple technique: motor plus nozzle... There are two types:

1. Submersible or manual.
2. Stationary.

Long reed-shaped device that turns into a nozzle. It may have several removable attachments, but the bowl is missing. Therefore, mixing, chopping and whipping can be carried out in any dish convenient for you.

Its second name is "manual".This is due to the fact that he will not be able to work independently without the help of your hands. It must be held while working, which creates certain inconveniences.

Its advantage is the ability to process small amounts of food, for example, chopping berries for a smoothie or making puree for a child. However, most often this unit is not designed for long-term use, which contributes to a quick failure. Hand blender repair is easy enough... Its building contains:

In contrast to a hand blender, it can work completely independently. It has a base - a body on which a glass or plastic bowl is attached (depending on the model).

The necessary attachments are installed in the bowl of their own choice, which brings the stationary blender closer to a food processor in terms of functionality. Repairing a stationary blender is a little more difficult due to the larger design and number of parts.

Free hands when using this type of blender is a huge plus for our lack of time. However, this kitchen helper does a poor job of handling small amounts of ingredients. Often its power is more, it can work for a longer time without a break, but it takes up much more space than a manual one. It consists of:

• bowls with a lid;
• engine;
• spindle;
• knife;
• drive shaft;
• locking mechanism;
• switch;
• cord.

Next, you will learn how to repair a blender with your own hands and that this only requires initial information from the field of electrical engineering and electronics, some tools and desire.

It is unlikely that you will be able to sharpen a knife for a blender or chopper yourself.if you do not have a special tool and proper experience. Moreover, if these are knives in a dicing attachment, but everyone can replace a dull knife:

• check that the device is not plugged into the outlet;
• remove the bowl from the stationary blender;
• on some models, the knife is fastened with nuts, remove them using a wrench;
• grasp the knife with a cloth;
• unscrew, considering that the thread is left-handed.

Check the contents of your blender, there may be a spare knife... If not, buy a new one based on your model.

A rare case when you need to disassemble the bowl to remove the knife. The actions are the same, but it is worth replacing the oil seal at the same time.

And absolutely not a repair case - this is not a collapsible bowl... Then you just need to throw it away and buy a new one, but here it is worth considering the price issue. Wouldn't it be better to buy a new blender?

Any cleaning should be started by disconnecting the device from the mains:

• carefully remove the bowl from the main body;
• unscrew and remove the ring nut located under the blade holder;
• gently release the knife from the stuck object;
• check the integrity of the knife (most likely it needs to be replaced with a new one);
• rinse all parts with warm water using a non-aggressive detergent;
• dry thoroughly and collect;
• check the work.

The knowledge gained at school in physics lessons will come to the rescue. No need to have seven spans in the forehead and super devices. Basic knowledge and a voltmeter are enough.

They turned on the blender, and in response there was silence? You should not immediately run for a hammer and a screwdriver. Start by checking the voltage at the outlet you want, by connecting any working electrical appliance. Is the table lamp shining? Then we check the cord:

• unplug from the outlet;
• we ring the wire;
• disassemble the case using a screwdriver;
• we find the power block where the wire is screwed;
• we call, if there is no signal, we change the wire;
• collect and turn on.

A similar algorithm of actions:

• disconnect from the outlet;
• disassemble the case;
• remove the fuse;
• ring him;
• if a problem is identified, purchase a new identical one.

A simple check will help determine the health of the electric motor. in a few steps:

• connect the device to an outlet;
• turn on the blender without a bowl;
• if there is a lock button, press it with improvised means.

If it buzzes, but does not work, then the problem lies in the motor winding.Should you buy a new one or rewind the old one? The answer is hidden behind the cost of the question.

If the device does not rotate or does it very slowly, then possible breakdown of the speed regulator... The speed switch has several positions. To check, you can turn them on in turn, judging by the sound the speed of the knife movement. The faster the movement, the stronger the buzzing.

This breakdown is quite common among blenders. For radio amateurs or those in the industry:

• the regulator is evaporated from the unit;
• all positions are called (the absence of a short circuit indicates a breakdown).

When working in blenders, it's not just the electrical part that suffers. Quite common mechanical damage, with which it is quite possible to fight independently.

Notice a leak between the body and the bowl? Feel free to start repairing:

• remove the bowl from the body;
• unscrew the drive spindle;
• remove the old gasket;
• install a new gasket in its place.

If you use the blender carelessly, you can damage the lid snapping mechanism for stationary or submersible attachments. There is only one solution to the problem: buy a new part as repairing the chopper cover or blender attachment may result in injury during further use.

You can still try to repair the whisk attachment by removing the broken bar. Only during further work, you need to be careful as part of the protruding wire can scratch.

A damaged case can hardly be repaired... The use of such an electrical appliance endangers your safety. Treat yourself to the purchase of new technology.

There are latches on the bowl, which can be broken off if used carelessly. If this happens, the motor will not turn on due to the protection trip. There is only one solution to the problem: buy a new bowl.

If you pour boiling water and other hot liquids into the bowl, the container will be damaged. The solution to the problem is also: buy a new bowl.

The bowl should not be repaired in view of the fact that it is impossible to achieve the initial state of the elements.

As a rule, the blender leg cannot be repaired due to the fact that it is all monolithic and the structure cannot be disassembled. If the leg is metal and bent, then you can try to straighten it by force. Even if this succeeds, it will not be possible to achieve the previous work. Internal mechanisms won't fall into place.

The problematic place of the gearbox is the separation of the gears and their shafts. As a result of heavy loads, this unit heats up, the iron shaft melts the gear seats and it flies off. As a result, rotation is no longer transmitted to the nozzle.

For gearbox repair it needs to be disassembled. It usually consists of two halves held together by internal latches. After that, you need to inspect the internal details. If the gears are intact and just fell out of the shafts, then we put them in place and fix them with superglue... This method will prolong the life of the device for some time.

How much does a blender repair cost? There is no answer to this question, since you need to know what exactly broke.

According to the service center, in 90% of cases it is possible to repair the Brown blender (Braun, especially the 600 watt turbo model - 600 watt turbo), Hamilton beach, Philips, Polaris, Bosch, Scarlett, Redmond, Supra, Vitek, Moulinex.

Repair of blenders Kambrook, Mixsy, Maxwell, Saratov, Kenwood, Tefal is amenable to 60% of cases due to the specifics of the design.

Regardless of the brand you can easily repair the blender with your own hands by adhering to the recommendations above.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video material from which you will learn how to diagnose and then troubleshoot the blender:

Some blender repair parts are not always readily available at home stores or due to their high retail price.Perhaps you will find a replacement for spare parts, but it is worth remembering that this repair may not always be of high quality and justified. Sometimes it is worth resorting to the services of a service centerwhere this service will prove to be more acceptable as a warranty will be provided on the repaired part.

If the product is still under warranty after purchase, then you should not undertake repairs yourself, as this will deprive you of the warranty right. At the same time, feel free to hand over the equipment and demand a legal repair at a service center or in a store where the blender can be repaired for free.

This is the problem that has emerged quite recently. Many consumers have chosen the excellent Braun product as their blender and chopper. One fine moment, while chopping meat, my blender squealed and smoked like a leg on a spit. The device did not turn on again. A more or less technical person, I decided to disassemble this device and see if it is possible to replace the faulty part.

Blender Brown not yet disassembled

Now the most important thing: THIS BLENDER IS NOT Dismountable.

The following will show the process of trying to disassemble the blender and what came of it.

With the help of force and a screwdriver, we tear off the top cover of the blender. If you see a ring inside, then this is just a dummy. I made my way with this ring for half an hour until I realized that it would not twist off.

Torn off top. Previously, blender attachments were inserted into it. On the left, there is a plastic ring with nozzle latches. I had to pull it out, as it was soldered to the right side tightly.

In order to tear it off, I had to really sweat, since there was no way to get to the clutch. I turned everything clean.

Torn off the top of the Brown blender. Otherwise, it will hardly be possible to dismantle it, although you may be able to do it more accurately.

The powered back cover can be snapped off very easily. You can see the control board through it, but you can't get to anything and pull it out too.

Another type of back cover. There was nothing to break here, but there was absolutely no sense from the open lid.

The case was hastily cut with wire cutters, and the motor is sealed tightly into the case, so there is absolutely no direct access to the motor. By the way, this is also a plus of the design, since it is practically impossible for moisture to get inside, unless you frankly wash the device under the tap.

The motor shows that the plastic has remained on it. picking it out was also laborious, but in the end it snapped off. You could have been more careful if you knew how it snapped in there.

Here is the engine, burned spots are visible on it, but no obvious faults are visible.

Completely disassembled blender. The blender broke a couple of weeks ago, so Brown was bought but of a newer series.

The last attempt to start the blender and the device is sent to the trash.

I bought myself just such a model. The quality is good. If it works in the same mode for 3 years, then this is quite normal 🙂

I hope the article was useful to those who are going to disassemble this wonderful device.

The upper part is fastened by snapping onto the central axis without damaging it - it is unrealistic to remove it. The ring is cut with a knife, then the upper part is simply pushed out (removed). Further - the ass (fused housing with the motor), it is unrealistic to pull out the adhesion place without unraveling. The blender is disposable, and given its cost, it is unreasonable to purchase such a blender. He died after working a total of 1 hour for the entire half year of his existence in the kitchen. Signs of death - either electronics or brushes (which is more likely if we draw an analogy with a drill (began to twitch during operation). I did not disassemble further, I would have to look closely at another model or even another manufacturer.

I work in a service, we don’t take such people for repairs at all ... but FOR myself - I am fixing a marriage.
the body must be carefully cut with a knife about 4 cm long from the regulator, then insert a needle or a thin scalpel into the incision and gently guide it around the circumference, tearing / cutting off the body from the lid. assembly was shrunk and sonicated. after that (not all models.) you can access the control panel, etc.but there will be no more beautiful completeness, after which the blender fell into the honorable dead: to look, but try not to work. alas, it cannot be repaired.

began to disassemble as shown but immediately stopped. the consequences of such a disassembly: a slide of plastic and individual spare parts. I sawed the body crosswise along the line of the silicone inserts with a metal hacksaw and the blender broke up perfectly. everything that can break is in the sealed case. I was lucky that the engine winding did not burn out. I turned off the blender at the first sign of a breakdown. disassembling the engine, it was not difficult, I cleaned the insides from the scorched plastic (apparently the noise-reducing gasket melted and wound on the shaft) collected and glued the cut with liquid plastic. the view is certainly not marketable and it seems to work louder but still WORKS. but in general I agree that the thing is disposable and does not justify its price.

At the expense of the price, I disagree with you: 2 thousand rubles for such a blender is quite an adequate price, especially if it works for 3 years.

But I have a problem - a gear for cutting vegetables, which is damaged and is now scrolling, and the blender itself also works for about 3-4 years. since such an ass is dismantled with the engine, then the gearbox is probably not even worth trying to disassemble ...

In fact, it's easier to buy a new one, and this one is to disassemble and write an article 🙂

You are not the only one in such trouble. The motors are good - if not overheated, they work for a long time. But the nozzles of the bowls and knives fly quickly. It is not realistic to buy, there are practically no supplies, they cost up to 40% of the motor itself, the attachments are all different in fit. I won't take BRAUN anymore.

this blender worked for me for 7-8 years! in extreme mode, I make cakes and I cook at home too .. so it is used 2-3 times a day, and sometimes much more often ... another would not have withstood such a load, but one day it burned out! It’s a pity of course, but I didn’t even think about fixing it 🙂 but now I’m sure of this that I didn’t ask my husband to do it 🙂 less headache. I hope that with such a new model you will be just as lucky

It can be easier to do by drilling 4 holes around the only holding key! when reassembling, already glue!

The second blender is being covered!
And it would not be a shame if they burned down!
Otherwise, the motor runs and turns at idle, but under load only the motor!
The first was sent from Germany and worked for six years, but rarely used it.
The second one bought from our store, and worked for four years, but almost every day!
So I think, take another brand (especially this one is produced in Poland), but what to do with two sets of accessories?

Anatoly, sell as spare parts.
Blender Brown I praise: 10.5 years worked. I use it almost every day, but with great care. Made in Spain.
Grief befell: the 1.5 liter bowl reducer crumbled. I disassembled it, but due to the dust that remained inside I could not figure out how to repair it. I found only a spare parts store in Moscow time.

The wife accidentally dropped the blender, its body cracked, and the blender stopped working. Before that I worked for 11 years! Today I decided to start repairing. I sawed the case carefully and looked at what was the matter. It turned out that just after the impact, the contact between the motor and the board disappeared. Everything is working now. I am writing a message while the body dries after gluing with superglue. I forgot to say that the blender also had the inscription "Made in Spain". So draw your own conclusions!

The blender was lovely. Worked for 10 years faithfully. It was used 3-4 times a week for whipping pancake dough, chopping vegetables, preparing minced fish and poultry, whipping cocktails ... During operation, the whisk and knife for a small chopping bowl were changed (they worked together and became unusable). Made in Spain. Something sparkled from under the speed variator in the engine, it cannot be repaired, the service said so: it's easier to buy a new motor part assembly if the rest of the accessories are intact. But its cost is decent, and with production in Poland - the quality, I think, will not be so perfect. Although, with proper use, excluding overheating, it is quite a worthy product.

I had Polish, worked a total of 10-12 hours, minutes on

10; the armature winding burned out: D, did not check the electronic part. Practically only a whisk was used. Better to buy something new than to renovate.

There are more and more various electronic assistants in our kitchen, and more and more they fail, especially if you save money and buy the cheapest ones. Of course, expensive blender models are not immune to burnout, but according to statistics, this happens less often. So, blender. It can be submersible manual or tabletop. The essence of this does not change much - in both cases we have a rotating attachment (knives, whisk), which is driven by an electric motor located in a molded plastic or metal body of the blender. Control ranges from simple on / off to multiple electronically controlled speeds. To visualize all this - take a look at the blender diagram:

1. Container jug
2. Latch
3. Cutter
4. Spindle
5. Drive shaft
6. Electric motor
7. Locking mechanism
8. Switch
9. Cord

The immersion blender is not too different, and as for the possible malfunctions, they are almost the same and boil down to a broken cord, burning contacts, burning an electronic speed controller or an electric motor.

Practice shows that it is the motor that is the weakest link. Typical case: blender Orion ORB-012 stopped spinning after they stubbornly tried to grind frozen berries, despite slipping and jamming. In very many models, the engine can fail if it runs for more than a certain period.

Disassembling this device is difficult for a layman, not everyone will guess that it is necessary to start with the speed regulator cap.

We pry it with a screwdriver and remove it from the rod, and under it are 4 screws that secure the top cover, which in turn closes the board with the details.

Next, you need to pull out the plastic sleeve near the attachment of the nozzle, which covers the electric motor. Only by pulling out the motor can you pull out the speed controller board after it.

A burnt out motor can be immediately understood by the strong smell of burning. Here, medicine is already powerless, there is no point in rewinding the windings, because it will cost more than buying a new blender.

If the motor is still alive, we look at the regulator. It is assembled according to the circuit of a triac phase regulator, which has approximately the following circuit:

As you can see from the diagram and from the photographs, there are two buttons on the body. One connects the motor immediately to maximum speed, supplying a large voltage, and the other turns on the motor through the speed regulator. There is a noise filter at the input of the 220v network, so that when the blender is on, you do not have interference on the radio and TV.

Pay attention to the fuse. If you're lucky, it will be burnt out, and the independent repair of the blender will successfully end there, to the thunderous applause of the mother or wife 🙂 If not, check the correct connection of the plug, the integrity of the cord, the contact of the buttons, the details of the circuit.

Tags: How to disassemble Braun 600 watt turbo blender video