Blender brown 600 watt turbo do-it-yourself repair

xarl,

There is such a detail inside, I tried to turn it, but it may need some kind of key in the form of a tube with an internal diameter of 21 cm in which there would be 4 protrusions, they can probably turn this part!

There may be a fuse in the winding or the winding itself has disappeared somewhere, because then it warmed up, be healthy (before a coma!).

I raised the topic before. Conclusion - no way, if after disassembly it should assemble and work. I don't remember the details.

vovanfun, this part will not rotate. You'll understand after you take it apart in a more barbaric way.
I was seduced, I sawed out the key with a specialist.

Wedged the engines - already 2 pieces passed through my hands with a similar defect - in one there was only a resistor, in the other also a triac to the heap and the track burned out. In the second, the owners admitted that the device jammed, but did not turn it off immediately.

Today I dismantled the same blender, only with a slightly different number: Type: 4191

I'll start from the end: there was a problem with the transfer of rotation to the working body. All advisers began to talk about gears, so there was not even a thought, there are no gears here! And accordingly, there was nothing to break, except for the black thing, through which the rotation is transmitted to the working body. There is a notch on the shaft, and this black plastic was worn off when the blender jammed. But she did not want to be removed, as the melted plastic flowed out above the notch, and formed a side there.

And now about the disassembly itself (since there are no pictures, I will indicate the diameters and other sizes of the places that need to be picked - at least some kind of guideline:

. Attention, you should not try to twist the yellow-transparent plastic crap that looks like a nut with four lugs, as advised at the beginning of the topic. This is part of the engine housing, and it is firmly clamped with iron clamps-locks. Nothing will happen to the clamps, and the plastic from there can be torn out “with meat” how to do it. .

1. You still need to remove the white, conical part on which the model is stamped, and other numbers are still necessary. Without this, the destruction of the hull will be terrible.
To remove it, you need to take a screwdriver and from above, into the slot (its diameter is 28 mm) between the outer and inner white cones, put the screwdriver and with careful movements try to crush the inner cylinder “to the center”, and in the outer cylinder at the same time you need to try to flatten the ring ( only it holds the outer cone-cylinder, not counting the locking buttons). And at the same time you need to pull this part up. I would not advise scrolling, since there are ribs inside this structure - they break at the same time. The inner cylinder is sufficiently elastic, so it quickly takes on the old shape. . In general, you need to somehow stretch the outer cylinder-cone.

2. Now you can use something, like other people, to pick the glue line between the THIN blender body and the inner cylinder. The seam is very strong, and if it remains glued at least at one point, then the engine cannot be knocked out with a hammer. As soon as the seam is destroyed, the cone, along with the engine, will EASILY fall out of the body. You should not be afraid of damage to the wires - they are not there. All electrical connections are spring-loaded and solderless.

3. If you suddenly come to separate the white cylinder from the engine, then I came up with, albeit not an ideal technology, but better than complete destruction. The white cylinder is held on the yellow-transparent plastic of the engine using the same ring, as in paragraph 1.
This ring is located at a distance of about 23-24mm from the top edge of the white cylinder. Carefully cut off the plastic with a knife on both sides (it won’t work otherwise - there are two ribs that are needed for some reason) so that the groove can be seen. And stick a screwdriver in there to loosen the ring.Somehow the white cylinder will come off.

4. I won’t tell you how to properly disassemble the upper part (there are very rigid latches, but thank God they are ordinary). I can only say that at first the cover-knob of the speed controller is easily removed, and there you can already see at least something.

Good afternoon, in a blender (I don’t remember the model - 600W), the following problem: the motor works, but neither the knife nor the whisk rotates under load. Spins at idle. Post-warranty repair, how much will it cost and how long will the repair take? Thank you.

Alexander user
July 4, 2011 at 01:51 #

Hello! I have the same problem. Blender 600W (Type: 4191). The motor works on all power ranges, but neither the knife nor the whisk rotates under load. I believe the problem is with the gearbox. Post-warranty repair, how much will it cost and how long will the repair take? Thanks in advance.

Sergey user
July 27, 2011 at 11:46 pm #

Good day!
If you are in Kiev, please contact the service center - st. Glubochitskaya, 53, office 404
Tel: 044-428-65-06.
In another city? Let us know the address of the service center.

Larisa Zagura user
November 4, 2011 at 08:30 pm #

Hello! B and my blender has the same problem. Blender 600W (Type: 6550 Multiqick profesional). The motor works on all power ranges, but neither the knife nor the whisk rotates under load. Can it be repaired and how much will it cost to repair?

Alla user
February 7, 2012 at 07:39 pm #

I advise you, they took 80 UAH from me for the repair of this problem. lasted one week!
He took up the repair himself, pulled out the black drive on the sleeve with thin pliers
and dripped some glue, then put it back on the axle. And it worked.

Valya user
January 20, 2013 at 05:04 pm #

The reason for the fact that it does not spin under load is simple, on the black adapter (it is pulled out easily with the help of round-nose pliers) on the blender itself, the edges are licked, just put a little paper or something at your discretion and everything works fine.

sergey user
June 17, 2013 at 03:54 pm #

Huge respect and respect for Sergey and Valik, I almost ruined this device in the trash, 6 seconds and everything works.

Eugene user
August 3, 2013 at 09:22 #

I put a cambric on the axis of the engine. Everything is working.

user
August 11, 2013 at 01:40 pm #

And the task is even more difficult: if the motor is running and all the nozzles except for the whisk (with which cream for making a cake? The problem is this: the motor turns
the nozzle itself, but the vein does not spin, but makes a crackling noise? I would do it myself if I knew how the nozzle is disassembled. Who can help? Dnepropetrovsk

vadim user
August 12, 2013 at 09:33 #

Good afternoon, Vadim!
These blenders are considered non-repairable and no spare parts are produced for them.
If it's not under warranty, I can only advise you to buy a new motor

Alexander moderator
August 12, 2013 at 09:53 #

The motor works great. The other nozzles spin just fine too. Only this whisk nozzle does not spin - it cracks, but the whisk itself does not spin. I thought that the whisk was being disassembled, which is why I asked this question. I thought that, probably, I need to buy a new whisk or pick it up from someone whose blender is broken.
Thank you for responding to my request.

Vadim user
August 12, 2013 at 12:25 #

So it's a problem in the gearbox from the corolla.
If with other nozzles, if everything is fine, then the problem is in it.

Alexander moderator
August 12, 2013 at 01:12 pm #

Most likely, indeed, the problem is in the gearbox.

Thank you for your help, I figured out the problem.

Vadim user
November 28, 2013 at 08:44 pm #

I'm looking for a motor block clutch
buy or tell me where to buy
Blender 600W

Julia user
November 29, 2013 at 09:50 #

Hello Julia.
Braun motor blocks are considered non-repairable and the manufacturer does not produce spare parts for them.
If the warranty is over, then I can only offer a new motor block
There are do-it-yourselfers who offer solutions, but this is not for us. We are an official Braun service!

Alexander moderator
March 14, 2014 at 12:09 pm #

My splines were torn off. I put paper from a pack of cigarettes until it helped.

Ivan user
September 11, 2014 at 02:21 pm #

Good afternoon, you need to fix the motor unit of the Brown blender, at first the problem was in turning on (the button went down), then it stopped turning on at all.
Do you do this type of repair?
Thank you

Lesya user
September 11, 2014 at 04:31 pm #

Motor blocks from Braun hand blenders are not repairable. Buy new - in the catalog.

IBS Service moderator
April 28, 2015 at 08:43 #

Hello, the adjustable power button does not work, the turbo works, do not tell me what's wrong? Thank you.

Timur user
April 28, 2015 at 03:23 pm #

There are many options, but these motor blocks are not repairable.
We can only offer a new one - Braun 67051239.

Alexander moderator
August 24, 2015 at 11:44 #

Hello! In the blender, all nozzles work, only the gearbox that is put on the bowl stopped working.

Irina user
August 25, 2015 at 12:43 #

Alexander moderator
August 25, 2015 at 02:16 pm #

Can't the old one be fixed?

Irina user
August 26, 2015 at 11:41 am #

They are not repairable - a new one is bought.

Alexander moderator
November 1, 2015 at 09:07 #

Blender braun 600 turbo type 4191. Gear cover broken, tell me the catalog number.

Alexander user
November 2, 2015 at 10:03 am #

This model has 4 different bowls (by volume) and, accordingly, reducer lids.
On the cup, look at two letters on the side wall and here are all the lids for this model. (by these letters you will find the necessary one)

Alexander moderator
August 22, 2016 at 11:28 pm #

Good day!
The reducer (for whipping) and the grinder of the braun 600 watt turbo blender are not inserted into the electric motor, after the nozzle (working shaft) worked earlier. Tell me how to troubleshoot?
Thank you for your prompt response!

Alla user
August 23, 2016 at 05:04 pm #

Alla user
August 9, 2017 at 11:28 am #

How long does a blender repair take? are you going to the place?

Vasily user
August 10, 2017 at 01:14 pm #

Only to us you can bring to the service center or send it by Nova Poshta.

Message Gorecvv » 09 Jul 2012 15:42

. there is nothing there..
PPC in vain just pulled off the rubber ((((

NOT TO WHAT OPTION - ALSO AN OPTION)))

Message Bulgarian » 28 Jul 2012 18:36

Message telect » Mar 17, 2013 11:13

Message transform » Mar 17, 2013 11:55 am

Message telect » 17 Mar 2013 12:30

Message transform » 17 Mar 2013 15:48

None, this is a double zener diode - two back-to-back.
The name in the color code or the voltage on the case, the full parameters in the datasheet or reference book -
it knows like everything else:

Message telect » 15 Sep 2013 18:50

I remembered that I had not yet fixed it, and decided to give it a second chance.
Everything is called except for this blue element in the middle. what is this?

It does not ring, another one is the same on the other side and a 4W resistor in ceramic insulation. Tried to check with an ohmmeter. Did you do it right?

True, this 4-watt resistor is not for sale with us, there is only 5 watts. can you put it in there?

Message transform » 15 Sep 2013 19:29

A blender breakage can happen at any time, but do not rush to throw it away and run for a new one! If the screwdriver and electrical tape do not fall out of your hands, then first find out if the blender can be repaired in a particular case.

To talk in more detail, let's first understand the types of blenders. Studying the design of the blender will facilitate its disassembly and further diagnosis of the breakdown.

The English word "blender" is translated as "mixer, stirrer". The blender takes an intermediate place between the mixer and the food processor. From the first he got whisks for mixing, from the second - knives for chopping.

This kitchen unit is a fairly simple technique: an engine plus a nozzle. There are two types:

1. Submersible or manual.
2. Stationary.

A long cane-shaped device, turning into a nozzle. It may have several removable nozzles, but there is no bowl. Therefore, mixing, grinding and whipping can be carried out in any dish convenient for you.

Its second name is "manual". This is due to the fact that he will not be able to work independently without the help of your hands. It must be kept during operation, which creates certain inconveniences.

Its advantage is the ability to process a small amount of products, such as chopping berries for a smoothie or mashing for a baby,. However, most often this unit is not designed for long-term use, which contributes to a quick failure. Repairing an immersion blender is quite simple.. In its body are:

Unlike a hand blender, it can work completely independently. It has a base - a body on which a glass or plastic bowl is attached (depending on the model).

The necessary attachments are installed in the bowl of your choice, which brings the stationary blender closer to the food processor in terms of functionality. Repairing a stationary blender is a little more difficult due to the larger design and number of parts..

The hands-free use of this type of blender is a huge plus for our time constraints. However, this kitchen helper does not do well with a small amount of ingredients. Often its power is greater, it can work for a longer time without a break, but it takes up much more space than a manual one. It consists of:

• bowls with a lid;
• engine;
• spindle
• knife
• drive shaft;
• locking mechanism;
• switch;
• cord.

Next, you will learn how to repair a blender with your own hands and that this will only require basic information from the field of electrical engineering and electronics, some tools and desire.

It is unlikely that you will be able to sharpen a knife for a blender or chopper on your own.if you do not have a special tool and proper experience. Especially if these are knives in a dicing nozzle, but everyone can replace a dull knife:

• check that the device is not plugged in;
• remove the bowl from a stationary blender;
• for some models, the knife is attached with nuts, remove them using a wrench;
• clasp the knife with a cloth;
• unscrew, considering that the left-hand thread.

Check the contents of your blender, there may be a spare knife. Otherwise, buy a new one, focusing on your model.

It is a rare case when you need to disassemble the bowl to remove the knife. The actions are the same, but it is worth replacing the oil seal at the same time.

And absolutely not a repair case - this is not a collapsible bowl. Then you just need to throw it away and buy a new one, but here it is worth considering the price issue. Maybe buy a new blender?

Any cleaning should begin by unplugging the appliance from the mains:

• carefully remove the bowl from the main body;
• unscrew and remove the ring nut, which is located under the blade holder;
• gently release the knife from the stuck object;
• check the integrity of the knife (most likely it needs to be replaced with a new one);
• wash all parts with warm water using a non-aggressive detergent;
• dry thoroughly and collect;
• check work.

The knowledge gained at school in physics lessons will come to the rescue. No need to have seven spans in the forehead and super appliances. Enough basic knowledge and a voltmeter.

Turned on the blender, and in response, silence? Do not immediately run for a hammer and screwdriver. Start by checking the voltage at your desired outlet, by connecting any working electrical appliance. Is the table lamp on? Then check the string:

• disconnect from the outlet;
• call the wire;
• using a screwdriver, disassemble the case;
• we find the power block where the wire is screwed;
• we call, if there is no signal, we change the wire;
• collect and turn on.

A similar algorithm of actions:

• disconnect from the socket;
• disassemble the case;
• take out the fuse;
• call him;
• if a problem is detected, purchase a new identical one.

A simple check will help determine the performance of the electric motor. in a few steps:

• connect the device to the socket;
• turn on the blender without a bowl;
• if there is a lock button, press it with improvised means.

If it buzzes, but does not work, then the problem lies in the motor winding.Should I buy a new one or recycle the old one? The answer is hidden behind the question price.

If the device does not rotate or does it very slowly, then possible damage to the speed controller. The speed switch has several positions. To check, you can turn them on in turn, estimating the sound of the speed of movement of the knife. The faster the movement, the stronger the buzz.

This breakdown is quite common among blenders. For radio amateurs or those understanding in the industry:

• the regulator is soldered from the unit;
• all positions are called (the absence of a short circuit indicates a breakdown).

When working in blenders, not only the electrical part suffers. Quite common mechanical damage, which you can fight on your own.

Have you noticed a leak between the body and the bowl? Feel free to start repairing:

• remove the bowl from the body;
• unscrew the drive spindle;
• remove the old gasket;
• install a new gasket in its place.

If you use the blender inaccurately, you can damage the mechanism for snapping the lid on stationary ones or the nozzles on submersible ones. There is only one solution to the problem: buy a new part as repairs to the chopper lid or blender attachment may result in injury during further use.

You can still try to repair the whisk attachment by removing the broken rod. Only with further work, you need to be careful, as part of the protruding wire can scratch.

Damaged hull can hardly be repaired. The use of such an electrical appliance endangers your safety. Treat yourself to buying new technology.

There are latches on the bowl, which can be broken off if used carelessly. If this happens, the engine will not turn on due to the protection operation. There is only one solution to the problem: buy a new bowl.

If you pour boiling water and other hot liquids into the bowl, the container will be damaged. The solution to the problem too: buy a new bowl.

Repair of the bowl should not be dealt with in view of the fact that it is impossible to achieve the initial state of the elements.

As a rule, the blender leg cannot be repaired due to the fact that it is all monolithic and the structure cannot be disassembled. If the leg is metal and bent, then you can try to straighten it by force. Even if this succeeds, it will not be possible to achieve the previous work. Internal mechanisms will not fall into place.

The problematic place of the gearbox is the separation of the gears and their shafts. As a result of heavy loads, this assembly heats up, the iron shaft melts the gear seats and it flies off. As a result, rotation is no longer transmitted to the nozzle.

For gearbox repair it needs to be disassembled. It usually consists of two halves held together by internal latches. After you need to examine the internal details. If the gears are intact and just fell out of the shafts, then we put them in place and fix them with superglue. This method will extend the life of the device for some time.

How much does a blender repair cost? There is no answer to this question, since you need to know what exactly is broken.

According to the service center, in 90% of cases it is possible to repair a blender Brown (Braun, especially the 600 watt turbo model - 600 watt turbo), Hamilton beach, Philips, Polaris, Bosch, Scarlett, Redmond (Redmond), Supra (Supra), Vitek (Vitek), Mulineks (Moulinex).

Repair of blenders Kambrook, Mixsy, Maxwell, Saratov, Kenwood (Kenwood), Tefal (Tefal) lends itself in 60% of cases due to the specifics of the design.

Regardless of brand you can easily repair the blender with your own hands following the recommendations above.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video material, from which you will learn how to diagnose and then troubleshoot the blender:

Some blender repair parts are not always readily available at home stores or because they are expensive at retail.You may find a replacement for spare parts, but it is worth remembering that this repair may not always be of high quality and justified. Sometimes it is worth resorting to the services of a service centerwhere this service will be more acceptable as a warranty will be provided on the repaired part.

In the case when the product is still under warranty after purchase, then you should not undertake repairs yourself, as this will deprive you of the warranty right. At the same time, feel free to hand over the equipment and demand a legal repair at a service center or in a store where they can repair the blender for free.

This is exactly the problem that has come up recently. Many consumers have chosen a wonderful product from Braun as a blender and chopper. At one fine moment, while chopping meat, my blender screeched and smoked like a leg on a spit. The device did not turn on anymore. A more or less technical person, I decided to disassemble this device and see if it is possible to replace the defective part.

Blender Brown not yet disassembled

Now the most important thing: THIS BLENDER IS NOT SEPARABLE.

The following will show the process of trying to disassemble the blender and what came of it.

Using force and a screwdriver, tear off the top cover of the blender. If you see a ring inside, then it's just a dummy. I made my way with this ring for half an hour until I realized that it does not unscrew.

Torn off top. Previously, blender attachments were inserted into it. On the left is a plastic ring with nozzle latches. I had to pull it out, as it was soldered to the right side tightly.

In order to tear it off, I had to really sweat, since it was not possible to get close to the place of adhesion. Ripped everything clean.

The torn off top part of the Brown blender. It is unlikely that it will be possible to dismantle it otherwise, although you may be able to do it more accurately.

The power back cover snaps off very easily. The control board is visible through it, but nothing can be reached and pulled out too.

Another view of the back cover. There was nothing to break here, but there was absolutely no sense from the open lid.

The case was hastily cut with wire cutters. The motor is tightly sealed into the case there, so there is absolutely no direct access to the motor. By the way, this is also a plus of the design, since it is practically impossible for moisture to get inside, unless you frankly wash the device under a tap.

On the motor, you can see that the plastic remained on it. it also turned out to be laborious to pick it off, but in the end it snapped off. You could be more careful if you know how it is latched there.

Here is the motor, burnt places are visible on it, but there are no obvious malfunctions.

Completely disassembled blender. The blender broke down a couple of weeks ago, so Brown was bought but of a newer series.

The last attempt to start the blender and the device goes into the trash.

I bought myself this model. The quality suits. If it works in the same mode for 3 years, then this is quite normal 🙂

I hope the article was useful to those who are going to disassemble this wonderful device.

The upper part is attached by snapping onto the central axis without damaging it - it is unrealistic to remove it. A ring is cut with a knife, then the upper part is simply pushed out (removed). Next - the ass (fused body with a motor), it is unrealistic to pull out the place of soldering without cutting it. The blender is disposable, and given its cost, the purchase of such is unreasonable. He died after working a total of 1 hour for the entire half year of his existence in the kitchen. Signs of death - either electronics or brushes (which is more likely if you draw an analogy with a drill (it began to twitch during operation). I didn’t take it apart further, I’ll have to look at another model or even another manufacturer.

I work in a service, we don’t take these for repairs at all ... but FOR myself - I fix a marriage.
the body must be carefully cut with a knife in a length of about 4 cm from the regulator, then insert a needle or a thin scalpel into the cut and carefully lead around the circumference, tearing / cutting off the body from the lid. the assembly was carried out by shrink fit and ultrasonically fixed. after that (not all models.) you can get access to the control panel, etc., but there will be no beautiful completeness, after which the blender fell into the honorary dead: watch, but try not to work. Alas, it cannot be repaired.

started to disassemble as shown but immediately stopped. the consequences of such a disassembly: a slide of plastic and individual spare parts. I sawed the body across the line of silicone inserts with a hacksaw and the blender broke up perfectly. everything that can break is in a sealed case. I was lucky that the winding of the engine did not burn out. I turned off the blender at the first sign of a breakdown. having disassembled the engine, it was not difficult, I cleaned the insides of the singed plastic (apparently the noise-reducing gasket melted and wound around the shaft), assembled and glued the cut with liquid plastic. the view is certainly not marketable and it seems to work louder, but it still WORKS. but in general I agree that the thing is disposable and does not justify its price.

As for the price, I don’t agree with you: 2 thousand rubles for such a blender is quite an adequate price, especially if it works for 3 years.

but I have a problem - the gearbox for cutting vegetables, which is damaged and now scrolls, and the blender itself also works for about 3-4 years. since such an ass is in disassembly with the engine, then the gearbox is probably not even worth trying to disassemble ...

In fact, it’s easier to buy a new one, and disassemble this one and write an article 🙂

You are not the only one with this problem. The motors are good - if you do not overheat, they work for a long time. But the bowl nozzles and knives fly quickly. It is not realistic to buy, there are practically no supplies, they cost up to 40% of the motor itself, the nozzles are all different in fit. I will not take more Braun.

This blender worked for me for 7-8 years! in extra mode, I make cakes and cook at home .. therefore, it is used 2-3 times a day, and sometimes much more often ... another would not have survived such a load, but one fine day it burned out! it’s a pity, of course, but I didn’t even think about fixing it 🙂 and now I’m sure of this that I didn’t ask my husband to do it 🙂 less headache. I hope you have the same luck with this new model.

You can do it easier by drilling 4 holes around the only key holding! when reassembling, already put on glue!

The second blender is covered!
And it would not be a shame if they burned down!
And then the motor runs and turns at idle, and under load only the motor!
The first one was sent from Germany and worked for six years, but was rarely used.
The second one I bought in our store, and worked for four years, but almost every day!
So I'm thinking, take another brand (especially since this one is produced in Poland), but what to do with two sets of accessories?

Anatoly, sell as spare parts.
I praise Blender Brown: I worked for 10.5 years. I use it almost every day, but with care. Made in Spain.
Woe befell: the gearbox of the 1.5-liter bowl crumbled. I dismantled it, but from the rubbish that remained inside I could not figure out how to repair it. Found only in Moscow spare parts store.

The wife accidentally dropped the blender, its body cracked, and the blender stopped working. Prior to that, he worked for 11 years! Today I decided to do some renovations. The case sawn neatly and looked at what was the matter. It turned out that just after the impact, the contact between the engine and the board was gone. Now everything works. I am writing a message while the case dries after gluing with superglue. I forgot to say that the blender also had the inscription "Made in Spain". So draw your own conclusions!

The blender was great. Worked faithfully for 10 years. It was used 3-4 times a week for whipping pancake dough, chopping vegetables, preparing minced fish and poultry, whipping cocktails ... During operation, the whisk and knife for a small bowl for chopping were changed (they worked out and became unusable). Was made in Spain. Something sparked from under the speed variator in the engine, it cannot be repaired, the service said so: it’s easier to buy a new motor part assembly if the rest of the accessories are intact. But its cost is decent, and with production in Poland, the quality, I think, will not be so perfect.Although, with proper use, the exclusion of overheating is a worthy product.

I had Polish, worked a total of 10-12 hours, minutes

10; the armature winding burned out: D, I did not check the electronic part. Almost only the whisk was used. It is better to buy something new than to repair.

There are more and more different electronic assistants in our kitchen, and more and more often they fail, especially if you save money and buy the cheapest ones. Of course, expensive blender models are not immune from burnout, but according to statistics, this happens less often. So blender. It can be submersible manual or desktop. The essence of this does not change much - in both cases we have a rotating nozzle (knives, whisk), which is driven by an electric motor located in a molded plastic or metal blender case. Controls range from simple on/off to multiple electronically controlled speeds. To visualize all this, take a look at the blender diagram:

1. Container jug
2. Latch
3. Cutter
4. Spindle
5. Drive shaft
6. Electric motor
7. Locking mechanism
8. Switch
9. Cord

An immersion blender is not too different, and as for possible problems, they are almost the same and boil down to a broken cord, burning contacts, burning an electronic speed controller or an electric motor.

Practice shows that it is the motor that is the weakest link. Typical case: blender Orion ORB-012 stopped spinning after they stubbornly tried to grind frozen berries, despite slipping and jamming. For many models, the engine can fail if it runs for more than a certain period.

Disassembling this device is difficult for a non-specialist, not everyone will guess that you need to start with the speed controller cap.

We hook it with a screwdriver and remove it from the rod, and under it there are 4 screws that secure the top cover, which in turn closes the board with parts.

Next, you need to pull out the plastic sleeve near the attachment of the nozzle, which closes the electric motor. Only by pulling out the motor can you pull out the speed controller board after it.

A burnt motor can be immediately understood by the strong smell of burning. Medicine is already powerless here, it makes no sense to rewind the windings, because it will cost more than buying a new blender.

If the motor is still alive, we look at the regulator. It is assembled according to the scheme of a triac phase regulator, having approximately the following scheme:

As you can see from the diagram and from the photographs, there are two buttons on the case. One connects the motor immediately to maximum speed, applying a lot of voltage, and the other turns on the engine through the speed controller. There is a noise filter at the input of the 220v network so that when the blender is turned on, you do not have interference on the radio and TV.

Pay attention to the fuse. If you're lucky, it will be burnt out, and the self-repair of the blender will successfully end there, to the thunderous applause of the mother or wife 🙂 If not, check the correct connection of the plug, the integrity of the cord, the contact of the buttons, the details of the circuit.

Tags: How to disassemble the blender Braun 600 watt turbo video