Asus laptop power supply DIY repair

When buying a laptop or netbook, or rather calculating the budget for this purchase, we do not take into account further associated costs. The laptop itself costs, say, $ 500, but another $ 20 bag, $ 10 mouse. The battery when replaced (and its warranty life is only a couple of years) will cost $ 100, and the same will be the cost of the power supply if it burns out.

It is about him that the conversation will go here. One not very wealthy friend recently stopped working the power supply for an acer laptop. You will have to pay almost a hundred dollars for a new one, so it would be quite logical to try to fix it yourself. The PSU itself is a traditional black plastic box with an electronic pulse converter inside, providing a voltage of 19V at a current of 3A. This is the standard for most laptops and the only difference between them is the power plug :). Immediately I give here several diagrams of power supplies - click to enlarge.

When the power supply is turned on, nothing happens - the LED does not light up and the voltmeter shows zero at the output. Checking the power cord with an ohmmeter gave nothing. We disassemble the case. Although it's easier said than done: there are no screws or screws provided here, so we'll break it! To do this, you need to put a knife on the connecting seam and hit it lightly with a hammer. Do not overdo it, or cut the board!

After the case is slightly parted, we insert a flat screwdriver into the formed gap and with force we draw along the contour of the connection of the halves of the case, gently breaking it along the seam.

Having disassembled the case, we check the board and parts for anything black and charred.

The dialing of the input circuits of the 220V mains voltage revealed a malfunction - this is a self-healing fuse, which for some reason did not want to recover from an overload :)

We replace it with a similar one, or with a simple fusible one with a current of 3 amperes and check the operation of the power supply unit. The green LED lit up, indicating the presence of 19V, but there is still nothing on the connector. More precisely, sometimes something slips, as if the wire is bent.

We'll also have to repair the power supply cord to the laptop. Most often, a break occurs at the point where it is inserted into the case or at the power connector.

We cut it off first at the body - no luck. Now near the plug that is inserted into the laptop - again there is no contact!

A hard case - a cliff somewhere in the middle. The easiest option is to cut the cord in half and leave the working half, and discard the non-working one. And so he did.

We solder the connectors back and carry out the tests. Everything worked - the repair is over.

It remains only to glue the halves of the case with glue “moment” and give the power supply to the customer. The entire BP repair took no more than an hour.

An ordinary laptop power supply is a very compact and rather powerful switching power supply.

In the event of a malfunction, many simply throw it away, and buy a universal power supply unit for laptops for replacement, the cost of which starts from 1000 rubles. But in most cases, you can fix such a block with your own hands.

It's about repairing a power supply from an ASUS laptop. It is also an AC / DC power adapter. Model ADP-90CD... Output voltage 19V, maximum load current 4.74A.

The power supply itself was working, which was clear from the presence of a green LED indication. The voltage at the output plug corresponded to that indicated on the label - 19V.

There was no break in the connecting wires or breakage of the plug.But when the power supply was connected to the laptop, the battery did not start charging, and the green indicator on its case went out and glowed at half the original brightness.

It was also heard that the unit beeps. It became clear that the switching power supply was trying to start, but for some reason, either an overload or short-circuit protection was triggered.

A few words about how you can open the case of such a power supply. It is no secret that it is made sealed, and the design itself does not imply disassembly. For this we need several tools.

We take a manual jigsaw or a canvas from it. It is better to take the canvas on metal with a fine tooth. The power supply itself is best clamped in a vice. If they are not there, then you can contrive and do without them.

Next, with a manual jigsaw, we cut into the depth of the body by 2-3 mm. in the middle of the body along the connecting seam. The cut must be done carefully. Overdoing it can damage the circuit board or electronics.

Then we take a flat screwdriver with a wide edge, insert it into the cut and unclip the halves of the case. There is no need to rush. When separating the halves of the case, a characteristic click should occur.

After the case of the power supply is opened, we remove the plastic dust with a brush or a brush, we take out the electronic filling.

To inspect the elements on the printed circuit board, you will need to remove the aluminum radiator bar. In my case, the bar was attached to other parts of the radiator with latches, and was also glued to the transformer with some kind of silicone sealant. I managed to separate the bar from the transformer with a sharp blade of a pocket knife.

The photo shows the electronic filling of our block.

The fault itself did not take long to look for. Even before opening the case, I was doing test turns. After a couple of connections to the 220V network, something crackled inside the unit and the green indicator indicating work was completely extinguished.

When inspecting the case, a liquid electrolyte was found, which leaked into the gap between the network connector and the elements of the case. It became clear that the power supply unit ceased to function normally due to the fact that the electrolytic capacitor 120 uF * 420V “slammed” due to exceeding the operating voltage in the 220V power grid. Quite an ordinary and widespread malfunction.

When the capacitor was dismantled, its outer shell crumbled. Apparently it lost its properties due to prolonged heating.

The safety valve at the top of the housing is "swollen" - this is a sure sign of a defective condenser.

Here's another example with a faulty capacitor. This is a different laptop power adapter. Pay attention to the protective notch on the top of the condenser housing. It broke open from the pressure of the boiling electrolyte.

In most cases, bringing the PSU back to life is pretty easy. First you need to replace the main culprit of the breakdown.

At that time, I had two suitable capacitors at hand. I decided not to install a SAMWHA 82 uF * 450V capacitor, although it was ideally sized.

The fact is that its maximum operating temperature is +85 0 C. It is indicated on its body. And if you consider that the power supply case is compact and not ventilated, then the temperature inside it can be very high.

Long-term heating is very bad for the reliability of electrolytic capacitors. Therefore, I installed a Jamicon capacitor with a capacity of 68 μF * 450V, which is designed for operating temperatures up to 105 0 С.

It is worth considering that the capacity of the native capacitor is 120 uF, and the operating voltage is 420V. But I had to put in a capacitor with a smaller capacity.

In the process of repairing laptop power supplies, I encountered the fact that it is very difficult to find a replacement for the capacitor. And the point is not at all in the capacity or operating voltage, but in its dimensions.

Finding a suitable capacitor that would fit into a cramped case proved to be a daunting task. Therefore, it was decided to install a product of suitable size, albeit a smaller capacity.The main thing is that the capacitor itself is new, of high quality and with an operating voltage of at least 420

450V. As it turned out, even with such capacitors, the power supplies work properly.

When sealing a new electrolytic capacitor, you must strictly observe the polarity connect the pins! Typically, the PCB has a “+" or "–“. In addition, a minus can be marked with a black bold line or a mark in the form of a spot.

On the negative side of the capacitor case, there is a mark in the form of a strip with a minus sign “–“.

When turning on for the first time after repair, keep a distance from the power supply, because if the polarity of the connection is reversed, the capacitor will "pop" again. This can cause the electrolyte to get into the eyes. This is extremely dangerous! Wear protective goggles if possible.

And now I’ll tell you about the "rake" that it is better not to step on.

Before you change anything, you need to thoroughly clean the board and circuit elements from liquid electrolyte. This is not a pleasant occupation.

The fact is that when an electrolytic capacitor slams, the electrolyte inside it breaks out under great pressure in the form of splashes and steam. It, in turn, instantly condenses on the nearby parts, as well as on the elements of the aluminum radiator.

Since the installation of the elements is very tight, and the case itself is small, the electrolyte gets into the most inaccessible places.

Of course, you can cheat and not clean out all the electrolyte, but this is fraught with problems. The trick is that the electrolyte conducts electric current well. I was convinced of this from my own experience. And although I cleaned the power supply very carefully, I did not begin to solder the choke and clean the surface under it, I hurried.

As a result, after the power supply was assembled and connected to the mains, it worked properly. But after a minute or two, something crackled inside the case, and the power indicator went out.

After opening it, it turned out that the remaining electrolyte under the throttle closed the circuit. The fuse has blown because of this. T3.15A 250V on the input circuit 220V. In addition, in the place of the short circuit, everything was covered with soot, and the wire of the choke burned out, which connected its screen and the common wire on the printed circuit board.

The same choke. The burned-out wire was restored.

Soot from a short on the printed circuit board just below the choke.

As you can see, it jumped out decently.

The first time I replaced the fuse with a new one from a similar power supply. But when it burned down a second time, I decided to restore it. This is what the fuse on the board looks like.

And this is what he has inside. It can be easily disassembled, you just need to squeeze the latches at the bottom of the case and remove the cover.

To restore it, you need to remove the remnants of the burnt wire and the remnants of the insulating tube. Take a thin wire and solder it in place of your own. Then assemble the fuse.

Someone will say that this is a "bug". But I disagree. In the event of a short circuit, the thinnest wire in the circuit burns out. Sometimes even the copper tracks on the PCB will burn out. So in which case our self-made fuse will do its job. Of course, you can also do with a thin wire jumper by soldering it to the contact dimes on the board.

In some cases, in order to clean out all the electrolyte, it may be necessary to dismantle the cooling radiators, and with them active elements such as MOSFETs and dual diodes.

As you can see, liquid electrolyte can also remain under coil products, such as chokes. Even if it dries out, in the future, due to it, corrosion of the leads may begin. An illustrative example is in front of you. Due to electrolyte residues, one of the capacitor leads in the input filter completely corroded and fell off. This is one of the power adapters from the laptop that I have been repaired.

Let's go back to our power supply. After cleaning it from electrolyte residues and replacing the capacitor, it is necessary to check it without connecting it to a laptop. Measure the output voltage at the output plug.If everything is in order, then we assemble the power adapter.

I must say that this is a very time-consuming business. First.

The PSU cooling heatsink consists of multiple aluminum fins. Between themselves, they are fastened with latches, and are also glued with something resembling a silicone sealant. It can be removed with a pocket knife.

The upper radiator cover is fastened to the main part with latches.

The bottom plate of the heatsink is fixed to the PCB by soldering, usually in one or two places. A plastic insulating plate is placed between it and the PCB.

A few words about how to fasten the two halves of the body, which at the very beginning we sawed with a jigsaw.

In the simplest case, you can simply assemble the power supply and wrap the halves of the case with electrical tape. But this is not the best option.

I used hot melt glue to glue the two plastic halves together. Since I don't have a thermal gun, I cut off pieces of hot melt glue from the tube with a knife and put them in the grooves. After that, I took a hot air soldering station, set about 200 degrees

250 0 C. Then he heated pieces of hot melt glue with a hair dryer until they melted. I removed the excess glue with a toothpick and once again blew it with a hairdryer on the soldering station.

It is advisable not to overheat the plastic and generally avoid excessive heating of foreign parts. For me, for example, the plastic of the case began to brighten with strong heating.

Despite this, it turned out very soundly.

Now I will say a few words about other malfunctions.

In addition to such simple breakdowns as a slammed capacitor or an open in the connecting wires, there are also such as an open circuit in the choke output in the line filter circuit. Here is a photo.

It would seem that the matter is trifling, I rewound the coil and sealed it in place. But it takes a lot of time to find such a malfunction. It is not possible to detect it immediately.

Surely you have already noticed that large-sized elements, like the same electrolytic capacitor, filter chokes and some other parts, are smeared with something like a white sealant. It would seem, why is it needed? And now it is clear that with its help large parts are fixed, which can fall off from shaking and vibrations, like this very choke, which is shown in the photo.

By the way, initially it was not securely fixed. Chatted - chatted, and fell off, taking the life of another power supply from the laptop.

I suspect that thousands of compact and rather powerful power supplies are sent to the landfill from such banal breakdowns!

For a radio amateur, such a pulsed power supply with an output voltage of 19 - 20 volts and a load current of 3-4 amperes is just a godsend! Not only is it very compact, but also quite powerful. Typically, the wattage of power adapters is 40

Unfortunately, in case of more serious malfunctions, such as failure of electronic components on a printed circuit board, repair is complicated by the fact that it is rather difficult to find a replacement for the same PWM controller microcircuit.

It is not even possible to find a datasheet for a specific microcircuit. Among other things, the repair is complicated by the abundance of SMD components, the marking of which is either difficult to read or it is impossible to purchase a replacement element.

It is worth noting that the overwhelming majority of laptop power adapters are made of very high quality. This can be seen at least by the presence of winding parts and chokes that are installed in the network filter circuit. It suppresses electromagnetic interference. In some low-quality power supplies from stationary PCs, such elements may be absent altogether.

Video lesson on disassembling and assembling a laptop power supply

Many of us have faced such a problem as the lack of a charging process on a laptop. This can be caused by various factors. Firstly, a broken socket on the device itself can lead to this, secondly, interruptions in the cable that goes to the power supply unit, and thirdly, a broken cord at the junction with the power supply unit.In this article, we will touch upon the third most common case - broken wires, thus keeping you from going to the service again or buying a new power supply unjustifiably because of such a trifle.

... Attention. To replace the cord, you must first disassemble the unit itself, as a rule, they are non-separable. If you do not have the time, desire or skill in such procedures, it is better to turn to specialists for whom repairing Asus laptops is a fairly easy and quick process.

So, to open the power supply, we need:

• A knife (or something similar, with a thin, but not sharp enough, blade so as not to damage the block itself);
• Hammer;
• Napkin (anything that can be put under the block, be it even a newspaper or a sheet of paper);
• Superglue and syringe;

• First, you need to put the power supply on either side on a napkin / rag so as not to scratch the surface on which we will be working.
• Next, you need to insert the knife into the groove that divides the block in half, just not at the very edge, but a little further from the edge, because you can damage or break the corner.
• Gently hit the knife with a hammer, not so hard as to break the block (after all, we need to disassemble it, otherwise we could have done everything in one step - with a hammer), but not so weakly, because we need the knife to slightly bent the side of the power supply, after in this place it will disperse.

• We do the same, first on the other wide side and then on the remaining two narrow ones. If the block does not open completely, then we repeat the same action. In this way, we open it, which is what was needed.

• To replace the wire, you must first peel off the circuits from one of the halves of the block, gently prying them off with a knife, to which they can be glued, then remove the aluminum wrapper from the circuits, it can be glued with tape.
• Next, you need to unsolder two wires of the old cord from the circuits and solder the new ones from the working wire in the same order.
• We assemble the power supply unit in the reverse order, first we apply glue to one of the grooves on the plastic case of the power supply unit using a syringe or a long spout of glue.

Thus, we independently disassembled and assembled the power supply from the laptop, using only available tools. Moreover, they completely dispensed with someone's help. We hope you find this article helpful.

The ADP-90YD power supply unit from an ASUS laptop was brought in for repair. It charges the laptop, then it doesn't. Unplug it from the socket, insert it seems to be normal, maybe something goes off.

I plug it into the network, check it with a tester that 19.35 V is there, I moved the wires and began to fall smoothly, as if the capacity was discharging, but maybe it was moving away. It is necessary to open the power supply unit. I inserted the knife into the joint of 2 halves of the case, gently tapped the knife with a hammer, the case and opened.

The board is in three layers of screens. All soldered, removed. The power supply is plump, and a lot of sealant is also poured.

A cursory examination revealed a torn-off leg of the filtering choke along the 220 V input circuit. "This is what caused such a strange voltage drop," I thought. I restored the throttle, I check - the result is the same. When you turn on 19.35 V, after 1 second it begins to smoothly fall to zero. Apparently from my hammering with a hammer on the power supply housing, the throttle fell off. But here's what I noticed, if you turn off the power supply from the 220 V network, after a few seconds, 19.35 V appears at the output and even the charge lamp lights up on the laptop, but then the network capacity is finally discharged and the power supply unit turns off. It is very strange, apparently some kind of protection is triggered and does not allow the power supply to work, but what is the reason ...?

I collected a small load from 5 watt resistors, the current consumption was only 0.07 A and the power supply unit started up normally. It's not clear at all ... but does the current consumption of the laptop mean not enough for him? I didn't want to, but I would have to go online, remove all the sealant to check everything.

I measured the PWM controller, the protection obviously worked there, but the protection turned off when the network capacity began to discharge, but I was not even twitched to check the voltage on it.

An internet search returned the following:

check the voltage on the mains electrolyte if it is more than 450 V (and how is there so much?), urgently change 2 film capacitors 474 nF 450 V and you will be happy

Indeed, the voltage across the network capacitance is 496 V, everything fell into place. Such a voltage at idle is very high, the PWM controller sees it and goes into protection, and if you turn off the mains voltage, then the capacity gradually discharges, reaching normal values ​​and the power supply starts up for a short time. This is where 19 V came from if you turn off 220 V. And when I started the power supply unit even under a small load, the voltage did not jump so much and the PWM did not go into protection.

It was possible to finish at this, replace the film containers, with which, as it turned out, serious problems.

But it became interesting where almost 500 V came from on the hot side of the power supply and what does this have to do with these two capacities. The Internet helped again, I didn't want to pick out the entire power supply unit in search of an answer. The information was found on the forum, the phrase clarified everything:

There is a passive power corrector. in case of failure of metal-paper capacitors in the corrector circuit, and the corrector goes into spacing, the voltage on the network bank drops above 500 volts. Therefore, if you just replaced the network bank, then it will not work for long. It is necessary to bring the voltage of the corrector back to normal or completely eliminate it.

It remains to buy and replace containers, but everything is not so simple here either.

The Chinese had containers with such a rating and dimensions, but we do not. There were only 400 or 600 V. More - no less, but the left capacitance is just 474 nF 600 V, but how to put it in instead of those in the middle. There is not so much space there, and at 400 V it was no less in size. Moreover, the sellers assured that in such small dimensions, the Chinese were unlikely to be able to shove a high-quality product, which is why they were out of order. I had to choose by size. The right-hand tank was a good fit, but it was 330 nF 400 V, so we had to install them.

After installing new capacitors, the power supply immediately started up, the voltage stabilized, and there were no more problems with power and charging the laptop.

The power supply is again wrapped in its shields, the case is glued together and returned to the customer.

Today I will talk about how to carefully open a glued (soldered) power supply from a laptop, monitor or printer... Such power supplies are often found and many have a lot of questions - how to open them without breaking them at all... Subject for today - external glued power supply unit SAD04214A from Samsung 960BF monitor... By the way, the declared malfunction of this couple is a spontaneous shutdown.

I will tell you how to disassemble the Samsung SyncMaster 960BF monitor later. So, we have a power supply, the output of which has 14 volts of constant voltage and a maximum current of 3 amperes.

The plug of this power supply unit is made, we can say classically - the internal output is "+14 V", the external one is the common wire.

This is how it looks power supply seam monitor before disassembling.

Especially for the readers, I took off video of the disassembly process... This video is suitable for any glued power adapter for laptop, monitor, printer or other equipment. The main principle is to insert a sharp tool into the seam of the power supply and confident blows split it in two.

This is how it should look power supply seam after opening.

Taking out the board, I saw a characteristic darkening of the PCB, which indicates overheating elements on the board.

As a result poor quality soldering at the factory - microcracks in the solder have formed. Because of this, the resistance of the "resistor-track" contact increased and it began to heat up more intensively, from which the microcrack expanded, because the mechanical strength of the solder, as is known, decreases with increasing temperature. First microcrack under the resistor.

The second microcrack in the solder.

The third crack was detected already at wobbling resistor, the leg of which is soldered to the board tracks at this point.

Above the resistors are filled with some kind of rubber foam.It is possible that it worsens the heat transfer between the elements inside the power supply case.

We remove this glue and see overheated resistors... The paint even charred on them at the point where the metal leads were connected to the resistor case.

We solder these resistors and change to the like. The resistor on the left is 33k ohms and the right is 33 ohms.

I determined it by resistor marking table color coded ring.

Soldering resistors in place and we do not regret solder and flux... Overheated pads of the PCB tracks do not hold the solder well.

That's what happened from the side of radioelements.

Be sure to check condition of electrolytic capacitors, who are afraid of overheating. Just look at how flat the top is to make sure everything is okay. But if you change, then only for capacitors Rubycon 1000 uF 25 V and capacitors Nippon 2200 uF 25 V... There are cheaper of the decent ones (but always by 105 degrees) Samwha 2200 uF 25 V.

This completes the repair of the power supply. It remains to collect everything back into the case and check for stability. Now you can feel how carefully you disassembled the power supply case. If both halves converge with a seam width of about 1 mm, then everything is fine, if more, then plastic burrs along the seam may interfere. They need to be removed with a knife or side cutters.

As soon as we achieve a satisfying seam, drip a few drops (I usually drip at 6-8 points) onto the seam of "Second" type glue and press the body with something heavy for 5 minutes. Now everything is ready - repaired power supply unit SAD04214A from Samsung 960BF monitor and glued back after opening.

Happy renovation!
Your Solder Master.

Don't forget to check the C107 with a meter. In 90% of cases, either dried out or leaked.

Thanks for the addition. I completely agree.

Indeed, there was a problem in him - short circuit.

You never measure ESR at conductors, but in vain!

If I had something to measure, then I would measure it. And so, I just call for a breakdown. But Underzen is right, the ESR should ideally be measured.

Good afternoon. Interesting site, thank you for sharing your best practices ...

Regarding the power supply unit in sealed cases (even "in forks"). Once they taught me, so I decided to share - your idea is correct, you need to open it at the seam with an eagerly strong knife, not very hardened, so as not to break. The main highlight is to put the PSU in the freezer for an hour or two. Frozen plastic very well then cracks along the seam, even strongly glued (due to inhomogeneity). Sometimes I even just tap the seam with a heavy hammer so as not to spoil the look. Naturally, the pause in the repair is delayed for the time of thawing and evaporation of moisture then, but the chldopot is less and the quality is better.

Second, people are right when they talk about ESR. A few years ago, life forced me to take up the repair of near-computer equipment just as hard. 99% of power supply units are already pulsed, their diagnostics using ESR sometimes turns into a routine, and not troubleshooting, hi! Here is a device that I have been using for a long time, I tried a bunch of everything and settled on this particular design. Run along the branch if desired. In general, in the dock at 1.01, everything is scheduled.

Thank you for your advice))) I will improve my skills))) Live and learn!

Good evening, comrades. I need your help! I am a happy owner of the samsung syncmaster 960bf monitor! The monitor holder is broken!

Epoxy "Second" to help you)))

Thanks! Do you think this will help?

Yes, if you degrease the surface of the plastic, sand it and reinforce it with metal, the epoxy will hold up well. I restored laptops this way.

Good morning Solder Master! I can send you a photo of my breakdown to understand what happened to me! Please drop me your email address!

Good afternoon. I need your help, I have a monitor 960, when the power is turned on, the power button on the monitor starts blinking, I noticed until the power supply unit warms up or you warm it up, the monitor does not turn on. What to do?

You need to fix the power supply. Disassemble and check capacitors and soldering.If it doesn't help, write.

Nice post. He himself was once fond of radio electronics. I have 5 stars and success in development!

Thank you Ivan. And good luck to you with your blog)))

Vyacheslav, there are two options - either the electrolytic capacitors are dry - replace them (start with a small 47 microfarad 50 V), or a microcrack has formed in the soldering - solder the board. The rest is unlikely.

Hello!
Today I replaced 4 capacitors (there seem to be only 4 of them).
The effect is "0".
It turns off anyway.
I went to the repair of laptops on the radio market. There, the cunning people directly said that the soldering of the condenders to one place. And they said they knew what was out of order there. But they flatly refused to tell me. Like: pay the money and we will repair it ourselves, and keep the condensers for yourself.
Can you advise on what forum to consult?

Often in technology, the power adapter breaks down. Typically, a laptop power supply becomes unusable due to improper use or a sharp jump in the voltage amplitude in the power supply. If you find that there is a lack of power in this charging component, then you can immediately use the services of a service center or even buy a brand new device for yourself. Both options are unlikely to cost you cheap, and who likes the extra costs? You can try to restore the former performance of the power supply yourself. Let's take a look at the step-by-step repair of a laptop power supply today and pay attention to the main nuances.

Before taking up the tools and getting down to work, you should evaluate your abilities in this area several times.

Important! If you do not have basic skills in working with electrical appliances, we recommend that you refuse to repair the power supply unit at home. Without proper understanding, you can do more harm to the component, as well as your health!

You can immediately identify several of the most common types of malfunctions:

• The problem is in the cable. In this case, performance is disrupted due to a break in the wiring or because of its crease. Such damage can be caused by pets who are very fond of chewing on something.
• The problem is in the connector. If you decide to move your device from one room to another and have forgotten about the wires, then you risk getting acquainted with the plug pulled out from the laptop socket.
• The problem is in the power supply element. This damage can result from power surges, short circuits and mechanical damage.

If any of the points are familiar to you firsthand, then you can familiarize yourself with repairing a laptop power supply with your own hands step by step and take the initiative into your own hands.

If you have ever held a soldering iron in your hands and know how to read at least a little electrical diagrams, then you can safely take on the restoration work of the adapter. Let's take a look at two of the most common causes of breakdowns.

Do-it-yourself laptop power supply repair is carried out as follows:

1. In order to bring the electronic converter back to life, it is necessary to start by opening the plastic case. To do this, you will need to get yourself a thin blade or flat screwdriver. Find the longitudinal seam on the body of the device and slide the selected tool into the gap between the halves. Use a little force and carefully separate the body parts.
2. Now you can start extracting the "filling", which is usually covered with plates made of metal. You will need to carefully remove or unsolder these plates.
3. After these steps, you will already be able to assess the full extent of the breakdown. For the next part of the repair, you will need to get a diagram of your power supply unit, on which all circuit elements and their parameters will be marked.
4. The next step is to identify the broken element and carefully dismantle it with a soldering iron. To replace the old one, you will need a new serviceable part, which must fully meet the characteristics of the chain. Solder the new component to the circuit and install the board back into the device case, remembering to carefully glue both parts of the PSU.
5. If the glue is dry, you can charge your laptop using the repaired unit.

Important! If you think that this procedure is very difficult, then we do not recommend that you take on the work yourself. Better get a new adapter.

How to fix a laptop power supply if all the components inside the case are working properly? You can find the answer below.

The cord that comes from the power supply often suffers from various mechanical influences. If the problem lies in the wiring, then you can resort to the following instructions for carrying out restoration work:

• Cut off the wire that goes from the PSU.
• Strip the wiring.
• Get a new plug. Next, cut the cable and screw the plug parallel to the center wire.
• Use a special technical hair dryer to solder the junction of the elements. Also, no one forbids you to use electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.

Important! If you want to use the latter, we recommend that you put this component on your cord in advance.

• To avoid short circuits, insulate the connected elements.
• Now plug the charger into your laptop and plug it into a power outlet.

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