Toyota xenon ignition unit do-it-yourself repair

Operations such as do-it-yourself xenon ignition block repairs cannot be classified as everyday, but they do happen. The option of replacing the block with a new one is not always good for the reason that it is expensive. Sometimes minor repairs cost mere pennies.

Let us first analyze the problems that may arise with bi-xenon in a car. The problem may be not only in the ignition unit, but in the lamp itself. More precisely, in the coil. Here is a tester to help.

The next probable malfunction is water ingress into the block.

Finally, a defect in the multiplier. The green chip is a pulse generator (similar to a computer - OS). In the photo, it is indicated by the number 1. The number 2 indicates the multiplier. It is in it that most often there is no contact with the lamp.

If the previous electrical circuit is working, then the multiplier must be changed entirely, or look for faulty diodes, solder, install new ones.

Now consider the most common case of do-it-yourself xenon ignition block repair. The repair algorithm is the following.

Corrosion of joints and solder joints.

Water ingress into the body of the xenon ignition unit.

Breakdown of the coil, controller or multiplier.

1. Rinse the block with alcohol and allow to dry. In case of water ingress or corrosion, the device may work. Do not touch the board with your fingers, the voltage value can be very high.

If it does not help, there is a very high probability that one of the four transistors is faulty.

We calculate with a tester, solder, put a new one.

1. Another possible defect is a blown resistor. We also change. Almost one hundred percent chance that after that the lamps will work. It is only necessary to fill the mounting plate with paraffin before re-assembly.

Such repairs will cost several tens of rubles.

Well, after. We already treat China's products with due respect, the country has learned to do something. But in the case of repairing the xenon ignition unit, we do not recommend purchasing products from the Celestial Empire, this is not the case. Finally, to clarify: if the knowledge in electrical engineering is completely zero, it is better not to climb into the block with your own hands. Let the specialist do the work.

Repaired a Chinese ignition unit. SHO-ME has its own specifics. I changed the transistor to FQPF 4N60, ​​the parameters are not the same, but I pulled it. Special thanks to the Chinese comrades - soldering is disgusting. Parts may be intact, and the problem lies precisely in places of poor-quality soldering.

As a rule, the block burns due to our negligence. I burned out because there was moisture inside. All 4 theristors IRF840 were covered with a basin. So prevention is the best method.

There are several reasons for the breakdown of xenon ignition, here they are:

1) There is no tightness in the block itself, dust or water can get inside. You can determine this by opening the device. There is a malfunction in the flashing of the headlight. Or it doesn't light up at all.
2) Rust, due to which the adhesions of some elements of the block may depart. The parts themselves due to rust can fall out of the solder.
3) Problems with transistors.
4) "Punching" the windings of a multiplier or transformer.
5) There is no control signal from the controller.

The issue of good roadway lighting is relevant for any driver, especially if trips are mainly made outside the city. In order not to get into an accident, you need to be sure of the reliability of the headlights, regardless of their type. However, many believe that standard optics do not provide sufficient illumination and therefore install a xenon ignition unit with the appropriate lamps (if the device is not available from the factory). How does such a system work, and what advantages does it provide?

Xenon lighting implies the use of not only an appropriate lamp, but also an ignition unit (BR), which ensures the normal operation of the entire system. Its purpose is to generate a current of a certain strength so that the gas in the flask begins to burn and subsequently shines with a constant power. The standard electrical equipment of the car cannot produce the required voltage, which predetermined the use of the unit. It also automatically adjusts the level of light flow depending on the level of illumination of the road.

All devices are a step-up transformer enclosed in a case. Their task is to convert impulses from the on-board network into voltages up to 25 thousand volts. A powerful start makes xenon glow. In the future, the unit produces 85 V, necessary to ensure that the gas does not go out. Factory installed products are characterized by high stability, reliability and long service life. All of them have a special marking - OEM codes. They are needed in order to check the compatibility of the car, headlights and the ignition unit itself. The supply voltage of the unit is 12 V for passenger cars, and 24 or 36 V for trucks or SUVs.

Universal (adaptive) ignition blocks are used for self-changing optics. Available in two versions:

1. DC. A device that operates with direct current. It is distinguished by the absence of a stabilization unit and a relatively low cost. However, the lamps working with it flicker: combustion is not very stable.
2. AC. A device that works with alternating current. Provides high-quality illumination of lamps. The use of a stabilizing block guarantees an even voltage - there is no flicker. The downside is the higher cost.

There are no OEM codes on universal ignition units. All products are connected to a standard 12 V car on-board network, have a power of 35 W and give out a voltage of 23 thousand volts.

If everything is clear with factory devices: it is necessary that its code matches the characteristics of your car model. But how to buy a universal BR and what should you look at first?

First, make sure that the power supply voltage of the unit matches the on-board network of your car. Manufacturers produce blocks designed for 12, 24 and even 36 volts. Other parameters (averaged data):

• power: 35-75W;
• starting and operating current: 5.8 and 3.1 A;
• ignition voltage: 23 thousand volts;
• arc stabilization time: up to 20 seconds;
• working temperature: from minus 30 to plus 105 degrees.

Publications, incl. and on the Internet, they regularly publish ratings of companies that produce xenon kits. Among the most frequently included in the "tops" it is worth highlighting several manufacturers:

1. MTF. Differs in high quality of production – the defective rate does not exceed 1%. The most popular kits are: MTF-Light Slim Line, MTF-Light Slim Line MSP with interference suppressor. Of the minuses, one can note the original connectors (not suitable for blocks of other companies) and high (5500 - 5900 rubles) cost.
2. Optima. The ARX304 blocks produced by the company belong to the 5th generation of devices. The average price for a set is 3300 rubles. (maximum for trucks - 4800 rubles.) It is advisable to change the lamps every year and a half.
3. SHO Me. The most common set in the Russian Federation. There is a standard design option and slim. It is recommended to change the lamps after 12 months. The average cost is 2800 rubles.
4. APP Digital Ultra Slim. Japanese manufacturer specializing in the production of lighting devices for cars. It has an extended operating temperature range suitable for Russian conditions: from minus 40 to plus 125 degrees. The average price is 4000 rubles.
5. Interpower. High quality and reliable unit. Lamps last up to 2 years. The cost of the kit is 2500 rubles.
6. Xenotex. This is a product, in the creation of which 3 countries participated at once: Japan, China and South Korea. The kit is characterized by an affordable price - an average of 2300 rubles.

In most cases, especially if a regular xenon unit is used, the reason lies in the failure of the lamps (they gradually change color and fade out). They can be restored using special equipment - an automatic corrector, or simply buy new ones. What signs indicate that the device of the xenon ignition unit has failed? They may be:

1. The glow of the lamps is interrupted. The reason lies in the wear of the wiring of the car or the power supply circuit of the ignition unit.
2. Constant flashing of lamps (may be weak or bright, making it difficult to see the road). This indicates a poor contact of the unit with the "mass" of the car, or a wiring malfunction. The ballast can also be corroded.
3. Fogging headlights. It can occur in cold weather or in frost. It's all about the absence of cold air inside the headlight housing, which is heated by the engine. To remove the temperature difference, you can put thin long tubes on the intake channels that extend beyond the front bumper.
4. When the unit is turned on, the motor may stall or slow down. You can solve the problem by installing a relay between the lamps and the unit.

If the lamps are in order, but the light still does not correspond to the parameters declared by the manufacturer, the problem may lie in the ignition unit itself. The most common reasons for its failure are:

1. Ingress of dirt or moisture inside, which is caused by poor tightness of the ignition unit. As a result, the lamps begin to blink or there will be no ignition at all.
2. Malfunction (breakdown) of the block transistor or its transformer.
3. Corrosion. The junctions of the electronic components of the ignition unit are oxidized. "Guilty" in this poor-quality assembly at the factory, constant humidity.

It should be noted right away that a complete check is possible only with an oscilloscope and a tester. In a garage, you need to inspect the block body for cracks. If there is a smell of burning, then the device will have to be changed. You can also remove the cover and look at the transistor, other electronic components: their blackening indicates the need to purchase a new device.

First, make sure that the corresponding fuse is intact, then disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and the ignition unit itself. Remove the cover from it. If there is any trace of moisture or rust, clean the electronic board with alcohol. If you see that some components are loose, you will have to remove the sealant from the back and solder the problematic leads. Further verification is possible if you have experience with electronic components and a tester. In this case, check the transistors and resistors. After soldering the parts, fill the board with molten paraffin.

In conclusion, we can say that xenon lamps guarantee better illumination compared to conventional halogen lamps. However, if you decide to install the system on your car, you should give preference to a factory kit that works better and lasts longer. And the second point: a complete repair of the xenon ignition unit with your own hands is possible only with special equipment and experience. Otherwise, the purchase of new equipment is inevitable.

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In general, when I got to the blocks, I was a little saddened. Yup, Japanese! What the hell was making the blocks not airtight?? Even any fucking Chinese block is soldered tightly.
Fig with him. We remove the lid from the block and what we see is that everything is filled with water. Obviously, this was the reason for the failure. Although, maybe when the block dries out, it will still be able to work. But not on the Portico anymore) We don’t need such blocks))
Further, for interest, I googled on the topic of the cost of these blocks - the average price tag is 5-5.5 thousand rubles. In short, the price is completely unjustified.
Let's change blocks. I went to the South Port for blocks.
Under standard D4R lamps - the choice of blocks is not great, and the price tag starts from 2-3 thousand rubles. So we are going the other way.
We buy any ignition unit (the main thing is to take the SLIM version) and without any tricks - they are not needed, because. normally they are not. And why SLIM - initially the idea was to put new blocks in their regular place. Additionally, we buy an adapter for our D4R lamps.
In total, I took an ignition unit like this: (600 rubles)

And here is such an adapter: (300 rubles)

Nothing hard to install. We hook all the connectors as it was - dad-mom.
I suffered a little to shove a small inverter unit from the ignition unit into the headlight, but everything can be solved - you only need manual dexterity)))
The ignition unit itself fit perfectly in its regular place and was still closed with the lid of the old ignition unit.
Next, put the headlight in place, fasten the bumper and voila - everything works fine.
Total - the cost of all spare parts (lamp + ignition unit + adapter) - 1500 rubles. for one headlight.
With the cost of the original blocks of about 5 and the lamp of about 2 - savings of at least 5.5 thousand rubles. very handy. And it is still very debatable which is more reliable)
The skills you gain are invaluable.

Here's how I got fully working headlights again)

Xenon went out on Blyth (the headlight depressurized and turned into an aquarium).

In the xenon ignition unit, the contacts are filled with a transparent jelly-like mass. In some places, they stick out from under this jelly, oxidized and a breakdown occurred.

Can I remove all this jelly and fill it with, for example, silicone sealant for windows and bathrooms? Or is there a special, easily accessible fill to isolate the contacts?

Kostya
Are you sure that after your manipulations the dead electronics will come to life?

if everything works dry, then clean and coat with neutral silicone sealant

if the tracks are on the oxidation chamber, then you need to rinse the whole thing in an ultrasonic bath with a special solution. then dry everything at a temperature of about 100-120 degrees. see if the tracks are broken and if the microcircuits are oxidized. In short, if it is oxidized there, then you can do it. if there is a soldering station and an ultrasonic bath and a microscope for convenience (this is ideal). if there is none, then just buy a liquid called flux-off or something like that. puff, brush with alcohol, dry everything very, very well and look at the integrity of the circuit. but if oxidation has already begun, then it is possible that it will manifest itself in the future)))
and don't use gel. if it is a gel and not a compound (you can’t just pull it off and you shouldn’t even try), then it’s just so that during vibration all the components of the circuit preserve the integrity of the structures.

ps crap if you don't know what to do. the new one is cheaper and the brains do not strain

Of course I want to reanimate myself, if possible.
There is a soldering station with a bathtub. Millimeter too.

The mold is only on the surface, all the tracks and trace elements are intact as they are at the bottom under the jelly.

Is this stuff good for filling?
. 82&tid=192

Added after 2 minutes 53 seconds:

No, I'm just curious. I like to try something myself, technical education sometimes requires moving from theory to practice. As you say, this compound separates so easily, even without a hair dryer. I just don't want to spoil everything by using silicone that was not intended for this.

Only after the performance of the unit has been checked, fill it with neutral silicone sealant. If the sealant smells of vinegar (or any other strong smell), then the sealant is not suitable.
After pouring, be sure to let the sealant dry for a couple of days (a thick layer of sealant dries very slowly).

Added after 3 minutes 52 seconds:

in my practice, cell phone repairers are mostly monkeys with a soldering iron, who have no training, but can only stupidly solder or alter phones according to ready-made instructions / solutions downloaded from the Internet. Let this one fix anything, except for the phone to which he memorized the repair instructions - he will look at the device like a ram at a new gate.

The issues of lighting the night road are especially relevant in Russian conditions. In order not to get into unpleasant and emergency situations, you must have complete confidence in the performance of the car headlights. Many today install xenon instead of standard optics. Such light is very effective. But the system consists of several blocks, including a high-voltage ignition unit. This device sometimes fails.Let's look at how the xenon ignition unit is repaired, what are the typical problems, how to repair the element without the need to contact specialists.

This is called a high-voltage starting device for xenon and bi-xenon car lamps. Since the latter are filled with an inert gas, a very high voltage is required to start them. The parameter ranges from 23,000 to 25,000 V. Such voltages are only necessary to start the lamp. Then stable combustion will be maintained due to the ballast throughout the entire period of operation of the lighting device.

The first step is to make sure that the causes of the breakdown are identified correctly. Naturally, it will turn out worse to do it on your own than with professionals, but you need to try and you can. The first sign that the unit is out of order is the characteristic smell of burning. It is necessary to find out where the burnt element is located. If you have an oscilloscope available, then you can diagnose the device more accurately.

With the help of this device, we will determine which node of the block is not working properly. It can be a controller, any of the resistors or a transformer. If it was possible to diagnose the failure of the controller, then in this case there is no probability of a positive result of the repair. In this case, you will need to purchase and install a new xenon headlight ignition unit. Everything else can be handled by hand.

The very first thing that experts recommend paying attention to before starting any restoration work is a simple flushing of the entire electronic circuit board of the device with alcohol or acetone. If the cause of the malfunction was ordinary rust or moisture, then this operation is quite enough. Functionality will be restored. If flushing does not help, it is recommended to detach the sealant applied to the back of the board and solder the contacts.

Next, the xenon ignition unit is connected, and attempts are made to start the device.

It is worth noting that the process of switching on and starting must be carried out only in the state when the element is connected to the lamp. The block must be placed on a surface that does not conduct electricity. The device is placed away from flammable objects. There is a very high voltage on the multiplier of the device. It sometimes reaches up to 35 kV - do not touch the switched on device with your hands.

When the unit has started, it is turned off and then allowed to “rest” (cool down) for two to three minutes. If the device refuses to work, you should continue the diagnostic procedures.

First of all, open all the covers, then disconnect the sealant. Next, using a multimeter, you need to check all the transistors. There are four of them in the chart. If a breakdown was found in any of the elements, a new field-effect transistor should be purchased and soldered to its rightful place.

The stock transistor can be replaced with a 4N60. This completes the repair of the xenon ignition unit. However, if this does not help, further diagnostics should be carried out. Next, check the resistors - perhaps they are intact. If this is not the case, then the burnt parts are replaced with new ones. The power of the resistor must be at least 5 watts.

It can also help to solder all the places where the sealant was, and the flux was in an inactive state. The remains of the latter must be washed off. If the flux is pink, care must be taken to ensure that no pink spots remain during the work. The gel warms up well. After that, they again try to turn on the headlight. If the repair of the xenon ignition unit was successful, then the lamps will burn like new ones. But if all actions did not lead to success, you need to further look for burnt and failed transistors. Often, the reason is precisely in them. If such an element was found, it is unsoldered and the block is turned on without it. If the system works, then everything is fine.After carrying out all the measures to restore the unit, experts recommend filling the electronic board with paraffin. It is paraffin that is chosen - other analogues will not work. Various silicone-based sealants are very difficult to remove during the next repair. In addition, the chemicals that these compounds emit during heating may not have the best effect on the quality, strength and reliability of contacts.

If the problem was precisely in the transistor, and it was possible to restore the xenon ignition unit, do-it-yourself repairs will cost about 45-50 rubles. It's much cheaper than a new block.

The operation of checking the health of the device is not a complicated procedure. Naturally, you will need to be careful and careful. You will need a screwdriver, good lamps and a known working ignition unit. First of all, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Then open the safety block and check the element that is responsible for outdoor lighting. If it burned out, then it is replaced.

At the second stage, the supply electrician is checked. It is possible that the wires leading to the ignition unit have disconnected somewhere. Next, check how the contacts are fixed. Due to vibration, they could loosen. If the system was installed by hand, then often the headlights have adapters from the base of a traditional halogen lamp to a xenon one. It is necessary to check the adapter data. If there are no positive results, then it is necessary to replace xenon lamps without an ignition unit in the headlight with obviously working ones. When all options are checked, but there is still no result, most likely the problem is in the ignition unit. It must be dismantled and try to replace it with a known working one.

There are many products from China on the market today. So, for a Chinese xenon ignition unit, the price is up to a thousand rubles. Therefore, it is easier to replace a non-working device with a new one. Chinese manufacturers tightly solder these devices, and the board itself is filled with a compound. Therefore, disassembling the block does not make much sense.

As you can see, there are several options that allow you to repair a broken element. In fact, even inexperienced motorists can handle such repairs. For diagnostics, you need to have basic skills in electronics. If you know how to check the ignition unit (xenon or bi-xenon, it doesn’t matter), you can significantly save on the salary of a professional auto electrician.

The sho-me block burned out, opened it - I see a burnt resistor at the transformer. Searched the net - a common problem, but the solution is not written. I took a soldering iron and a tester.
Disclaimer:
In the block, when the lamp is started, a voltage appears on the multiplier of about 25-35KV. Can kill. When turning on the unit without a cover, put it away on non-conductive surfaces, away from flammable things and living people. Turn on only with the lamp connected. Do not poke claws into the working unit, let the unit that has just been turned off lie down a little. (a minute or so). Do not touch the board without need, and especially the high-voltage part.
In order:

I flew both blocks that were on the car, the first block flew from the fact that the Chinese, the crankshaft in their hollow, forgot to solder the contacts of the power connector to the board, by the way, inspection of the block showed disgusting soldering quality, the contacts of a number of parts fell out of them when they moved solder, soldering places were with holes, shells. Therefore, first we pick out the sealant from the back of the board near the power connector, evaluate and solder the contacts, and then start the block (connecting a lamp to it. ) and, perhaps, rejoice. You can safely poke power into the connector pins - the unit is protected from incorrect “inverted” switching on (plus and minus can be confused - it will not light up). If it doesn't work, read on.

1. We open the covers, pick off the sealant.

2. We see a burnt resistor, 4 transistors nearby, in the TO220F - MDF4N60 package - mosfets Vds=600V, Il=4.6A Vgs=30V, P=35W. We call the tester for the breakdown of the 3rd transistor (or better, everything).If there is a breakdown, we rejoice and run for a new field worker, ideally 4N60, ​​I found such an FQPF 4N60 with IL \u003d 2.5A, which is 2 times less, but soldered it - it works. (For MDF 4N60, ​​in the Datasheet (product passport), the current has a footnote, they say the current strength depends on cooling, you can see the transistors are the same, they just measure differently at different factories). If the transistors are not 4n60, it is better to change everything, otherwise the light may flicker.

3. We call the burnt resistor, most likely it survived, if not, we change it. I don’t remember the denomination, I heard the figure 2.2Kom in the net. judging by the size - a watt per 5.
3.1. Highly desirable, if not mandatory. We remove the sealant from the soldering side, we solder EVERYTHING. places of soldering in a new way with an inactive flux, which we wash off, or, if the flux can not be washed off, we do not wash it off. I use a pink TT indicator flux gel, which becomes transparent when soldering, which can not be washed off. Only if you solder them - do not leave pink spots of the gel, warm it up.

4. We start. Shines - rejoice. If not, unfortunately I don't know.
5. If you find a dead transistor, but there is no replacement, but you want to know if this is the only problem - unsolder the transistor and start it up. The lamp should turn on and off, and a spark gap will also be pierced on the board (pink crap, soldered into a slot on the board). Just don’t hold it for a long time, they saw it and knocked it out.
6. All soldered, the transistor was replaced, checked - it works, excellent. We fill the board with paraffin. You can’t use silicone sealants, because firstly you pick it up, secondly, acetoxy, which decomposes into acetic acid, and another type of sealants (neutral type) release chemistry that destroys contacts. The fee filled in this way will plow for a maximum of a year, alas (tested on myself). I read that in the USSR they filled it with paraffin, I tried it - it works great and isolates from water, I highly recommend it. One minus - during the operation of the module, it slightly flows out of the power connector, but this is garbage, it does not affect the speed, before sticking the chips, you will need to clean the contacts and that's it.

Repair price = transistor price = 45 rubles.

P.S.
Do not put xenon in the high beam and do not drive around the city like that - there is little sense from it, but it blinds with a bang.

Xenon headlight The issue of lighting the road at night is especially relevant in the conditions of Russian roads, usually far from ideal. To avoid accidents, you need to be 100% sure that the headlights are working and working properly. Our article will be useful to owners of xenon headlights - we will take a closer look at the causes of breakdowns, and also tell you how to fix them quickly without resorting to the help of specialists.

Repair of the xenon ignition unit may be needed at the most inopportune moment, for example, when the nearest service station is far away, and something needs to be done immediately. To begin with, let's consider What are the reasons why it might fail?:

1. Lack of tightness in the block itself - water or dust can get there (this can be determined by opening the device). A malfunction appears as standard - the headlight either “blinks” or does not light up at all.
2. Banal rust, due to which the adhesions of some elements can simply move away, and the parts themselves can fall out of the solder (again, the root cause is high humidity or the manufacturer’s hack).
3. No control signal from the controller.
4. "Punching" the windings of a transformer or multiplier.
5. Transistor problems.

Xenon ignition block repair To start the "treatment" of xenon car headlights, you must be sure that the cause of the malfunction has been identified correctly. Of course, it is unlikely that it will be possible to do this better than a professional, but you can try. So, the first sign is the smell of burning. Use your sense of smell to determine exactly where the burned element is. It will be more useful oscilloscope - an indispensable device in the * repair of the xenon ignition unit *. With its help, we determine which element is junk - the controller, resistors, transformer.If the controller is broken, the probability of a positive outcome of the repair is extremely small - you will have to spend money on a new kit. The rest can be dealt with.

The first thing to try before starting manipulations is to simply rinse the entire block with alcohol. If the cause of the malfunction is rust or moisture that has entered, everything will fall into place. Not? - try to disconnect the sealant from the back of the board and solder the leaky solder joints. Then connect a lamp to the block and turn it on. Please note: you need to turn on the opened device only in the state connected to the lamp, on a surface that does not conduct current and as far as possible from flammable objects. The voltage on the multiplier can reach 35 kV, so do not touch it with your hands in any case. Let the newly unplugged unit cool down for a few minutes. If these steps do not solve the problem, follow this algorithm:

1. It is necessary to open all the covers, disconnect the sealant;
2. Ring all 4 transistors with a tester. If a breakdown is detected, we buy a new field worker (best of all 4N60), solder it. If the breakdown is not detected, we move on.
3. Ring the burnt resistor - it may have remained unharmed. If not, change to a new one, watt by 5.
4. To be sure, solder all sealant solder points where the flux is inactive. Wash off the rest of the flux. If you use a pink indicator variety of it (which you can not wash off), make sure that there are no pink spots left - the gel needs to be warmed up well.
5. The crucial moment is to start * the xenon ignition unit. If the repair* is successful, the headlights will shine like new.
6. If there is still no success, look for a damaged transistor, probably the reason is in it. If a suspect is found, unsolder it and briefly turn on the unit in this form. Earned? - perfect.
7. After all procedures, the board must be filled with paraffin. Preference should be given to him, since silicone sealants are almost impossible to pick out later, and the chemistry that they release when overheated will adversely affect the strength of the contacts.

Thus, if the problem was still in the transistor, all repairs will cost about 45 rubles (the price of a transistor). Much cheaper, you see, than paying 700 rubles for a new unit. If, after carrying out all the described manipulations, the headlights still do not work, you will have to contact a car service.

The problem is well-known - about a month ago, the headlight (left) began to fog up sharply. Interestingly, this headlight has never been beaten or changed.
I scored, drove like this, sometimes I opened the lid to let it ventilate.
Yesterday I went out to the parking lot and went nuts - the impression that there was half a liter of water inside the headlights - because of the "precipitation" on the glass, you could almost see the insides.
And in the evening, the xenon in this headlight stopped burning. I foolishly bought a light bulb (too lazy to move it to another headlight), which also did not light up - the ignition unit died.
I called for services - 4,000 used block, 2,500 to remove / dry / put on a headlight. True, everyone accepted “in two days”. And it was necessary urgently.
Remembering that there are few bolts and after reading the forum a little (although there are no specifics on this topic), I climbed it myself. Although it was lazy this time.

For those who are afraid to remove the bumper (I was also terribly lazy): it does not need to be removed.
It is enough to “lower” one side (it looks scary, but there is not so much crap there: I took it apart for the first time and did it in 30 minutes):

1. Remove the wheel
2. Remove the front part of the fender liner in the arch
3. Unscrew the bolts that secure the bumper to the fender and the nut that secures the headlight there
4. Remove the grille
5. Unscrew the lower part of the bumper (a couple of bolts next to the protection bolts)

After that, you can carefully press the latches under the headlight from the non-disassembled side and lower the bumper from the disassembled side to free access to the last headlight bolt.

He removed the headlight and poured out a bunch of water. But the most terrible thing is the ignition unit - half a teapot spilled out

Having disassembled it (3 TORX10 bolts), I realized that the block itself is eternal (unless the capacitor blows). Only now, water, getting into the headlight, flows directly into it according to the design and “shorts” the coils that are not filled with compound (everything else is filled) because of which the block cannot “rise” to the required voltage (I didn’t measure it, but I’m sure that at the output on the lamp there was, in principle, a voltage, but small):

I poured water, wiped it, blew it with a hairdryer, collected it, put everything in its place - it worked.
True, it became somehow dumb to disassemble the headlight completely - to be honest, I didn’t get it, whether the black part would peel off just like that, or it would be necessary to unscrew some more - some fasteners confuse.
the headlight itself was filled at the seams with a transparent sealant: let's see if it solves the issue.

Something like this. Everything is easy even for the first time, the main thing is not to try to remove it by force - there is a lot of plastic everywhere.

The ignition unit is a high-voltage device that is a starting device for xenon and bi-xenon lamps. Since gas-filled lamps contain xenon gas, they require a high voltage - approximately 23,000 - 25,000 V. This voltage is only needed at the start, then the ballast maintains stable operation (xenon burning inside the bulb) throughout the entire operation of the lamp.

For those who want to save money, step-by-step instructions for installing ballast:

1. To begin with, you should choose a suitable place where the ignition unit will be reliably protected from moisture, dirt and strong heat.
2. It is best to place the device near the light bulbs so that the wires are not stretched.
3. The place of the ignition block must be level.
4. We securely fasten the ballast, it should not fidget on the surface. This can be done with bolts or clamps.
5. Then we connect the devices to xenon / bi-xenon lamps.
6. We do the same with the second ignition block.

Attention!
In vehicles with on-board computers, some difficulties may arise. If the lamp does not light up properly or does not function, it is worth installing a voltage relay. Thus, the load on the wiring will stabilize during the headlights.

As you yourself have seen, installing the ignition unit yourself is possible. But is it really possible to repair the device with your own hands?

You will need these skills at the most inopportune moment. The xenon system may be unusable on the road when the service station is far away. Decisions need to be made urgently. But, before proceeding with the repair of the unit, it is worthwhile to understand what types of breakdowns can affect its malfunction.

Before you start repairing the ballast yourself, you should learn how to determine the breakdown yourself. You must be sure that you have correctly diagnosed the problem.

Remember! That only a professional can do this 100% correctly, but you can still try to determine it yourself.

1. The appearance of a burning smell. When you open the hood, you can determine the place where the smell comes from, if it is from the ignition unit, then the xenon system in it is broken. If you have the opportunity, you can buy oscilloscope. It will help to determine exactly what exactly affected the failure of the unit: the controller, resistor or transformer.
2. If, with proper diagnosis, it was revealed that the cause is in the controller, then repair is impossible. In this case, you should purchase a new part for your xenon.
3. If there is a breakdown in the transformer or resistor, then it is possible to repair the ballast yourself.

1. The first thing to try is to rinse the ballast body with alcohol. Such manipulation is appropriate in case of moisture ingress or rust formation. After that, the block should work. If the cause persists, then proceed further.
2. Disconnect the sealant from the back of the block, if there are disconnected boards, then try to solder them. Maybe they are the reason.

Attention!
It is worth checking the device only in the assembled state, after it is attached to the lamp. The ballast surface must be non-conductive, remove all flammable objects that are near the high voltage unit. The voltage of the multiplier is about 35 V, in no case should it be touched with bare or wet hands.

1. Open all covers and remove sealant.
2. Test all 4 transistors with a tester. If you find a breakdown. Then the field valve needs to be replaced. It is best to use 4N60. It will need to be soldered instead of the one that does not work. If the breakdown is not detected, then we move on.
3. For greater fidelity, solder the sealant in places where the flux is not active. Rinse off excess flux, it is not needed. You can use a pink indicator liquid, it does not require flushing. To prevent pink spots from remaining, warm the gel well before use.
4. After eliminating all possible faults, connect the ignition unit. If the xenon headlights shone like new, then everything is done correctly and your device will work for a long period of time.
5. If, nevertheless, the headlights do not turn on, then the reason is probably in the transistor. If you find a damaged transistor, then solder it again. In this state, turn on the unit. If it works, then turn off and connect the ignition unit in accordance with all the rules.
6. After the proven procedures with the ignition unit, the device board should be carefully filled with paraffin. Give preference to it, because other sealants are difficult to remove. In addition, they can release harmful substances that adversely affect contacts.

So, you have learned to independently determine the cause of the failure of the ignition unit. And they themselves were convinced that the repair of the device is possible. Moreover, if the reason is in the transistor, then it will take you a little money to repair. Agree, this is cheaper than spending a round sum on a new high-voltage device.