VIDEO
The electrical equipment of the car's comfort system refers to a combination of various devices, such as a single lock, remote control, exterior mirror adjustment, power windows, interior lighting, sliding roof panel control, anti-theft alarm, as well as seat and mirror memory.
A single lock is driven by an electric motor. It consists of one central control unit, two or four door controls, four door locks, and motors and switches for locking the boot lid or tailgate. Other information regarding a single lock is given in the subsection Single lock - general information and vacuum hoses
Data exchange between control devices occurs through the so-called CAN bus (via switched lines).CAN is an abbreviation for Controlled Area Network and means that control devices are connected to each other in one network. For example, the connection between the central control unit and the door control unit takes place over two wires. Without the CAN bus, communication would be via 14 cables. Thanks to this, the electronic system takes up little space and weighs little.
The door control devices form a unit together with the power window motors. The unit controls the following power window functions:
– Automatic lifting and lowering of the door windows. ATTENTION
After a power failure of the door operator, for example due to a disconnection of the battery, the operator must again memorize the end positions of the glass. Otherwise, automatic operation of the window is impossible, see subsection Removing and installing the battery
The door control device also performs the functions of controlling the adjustment of the exterior mirror and its heating.
The central control unit is located in the instrument panel unit and performs the following functions:
- Locking the trunk lid with a single lock.
The remote control has a range of about 7 m, under favorable conditions up to 10 m.
The transmission of data from the transmitter on the key to the receiver in the vehicle is indicated optically by the LED on the key switch. Built-in rechargeable batteries provide about 5,000 clicks.
If the LED does not light up when the switch is pressed, the batteries need to be replaced.
The windows and sunroof sliding panel do not close remotely.
The remote control receiving antenna is located in the A-pillar of the vehicle on the driver's side. The A-pillar is the first body pillar against which the driver's door rests.
The “open/close” command of the remote control is confirmed by the central control unit by short flashing. If the single lock is opened via the remote control and the door or boot lid/tailgate are not opened, the vehicle is automatically locked again after 30 seconds.
When installed on a car Skoda Octavia A5, A7, Yeti, Superb abnormal xenon, after a while the comfort unit (on-board network control) fails BCM . The unit requires a replacement of a faulty key VNQ5E050MK or VND5E050AK for it to work correctly.
In blocks of comfort Skoda Fabia of the new sample, there are often problems with the inoperability of brake lights and external lighting in control units
6R0937087AB, 6R0937087AB, 6R0937087AB 6R0937087T, 6R0 937 087 T 6R0937087R 6R0937087S Symptoms BCM malfunctions
The front left turn signal is on all the time.
No power to washer motor.
Stop lights not working
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in A5 fl, for example, one of the turns is constantly on
Ukraine will be a grain and spiritual breadbasket!
Disco in the lounge
No one dies a virgin - life will fuck everyone
Post has been edited by SergeyOz – Monday, 28 Sichnya 2013, 01:24
so can Vasya look at the errors?
Ukraine will be a grain and spiritual breadbasket!
A possible cause is damage to the wiring harness at the transition point of their door to the A-pillar.
Ulisss you are a callous person (c) Vlad777
So in the car, does the unit work?
Those. performs all functions? Turns, dimensions, central locking, trunk opening. ?
You can carefully examine the bundles - and find how many twisted pairs come to the block .. If I'm not mistaken, then there are more than one of them.
Well, they (CAN tires) stand out from the total mass of wires.
aurum , I don't have that harness machine on my desk
Found a datasheet on the percent. Mentioned about CAN transceivers. I understand.
The processor has several possible outputs via CAN, only one pair has a TJA1053 transceiver + ferrite filter and goes to the outside world.
So this mikruha that you replaced is called an intellectual key. Somehow I also repaired a similar block. As far as I remember, it has I2C, i.e. she is ok. associated with procyc. But I don't think it's her. I would ask the above-mentioned “service”, what and what did they do there. Most likely your problem was formed through their fault, IMHO.
But it will be difficult for you without pinouts. Even so, it would be necessary to dive into the car and find the ill-fated twisted pair cable - in order to know where to start from
There was a car. The working block is read as the 09th channel of the Central electric. I checked the block code.
But, how can Maxidot see the block with one communication line, but the diagnostics do not ?! If the firmware had crashed, then the encoding would have failed (the operation of the block would have been disrupted) and Maxidot would not have interrogated the block.
Stasjuk , All the same, it is not logical! After all, another block is being read!
Replacing the CAN bus transceiver solved the problem - the unit now works and is seen by diagnostics. Installed TJA1054 (fully compatible with TJA1053).
Interesting observations:
They say that gsenon burns BC even when the lamp polling is turned off. It is logical that the cause is power surges or from high-voltage wires.
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there are 2 of them on the board, one near connector A, the other near C. which one is responsible for the right front?
Repair of the electronic comfort unit Skoda Octavia A5.
Victor Victor 7
Thanks a lot! I have the same problem but the left turn signal, that is, on the driver's side, can you tell me which one I need to change? Thanks in advance!
+ Victor Victor I can’t tell you, I don’t know if I need to call
Sergey Pidtilok 8 หลายเดือนก่อน
Thank you very much for the video. I soldered it myself, though I waited a long time for the microcircuit, everything is OK))) the turn works.
Magicmotorsport Russia 8
there seems to be a mikruha here, my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/448/product/vnq5e050mk/
Agafangel of Odessa 9
Mad Max, are you by any chance geographically located in Kiev? Interested in the contacts of the masters that soldered the block to you. My octavia is 6 years old. Didn't see any xenon or hitch. One side of the turns just stopped working. The verdict of several masters, incl. officials, the controllers of the comfort block burned out, there is no impulse on one side. Long story short, a replacement block. I would like to try to restore. New now 10-12 thousand UAH. I heard there are good craftsmen in Karavaev Dachas in Kiev. I can't find their contacts. Do not tell me if you are from Kiev?
+ Agafangel Odessky No I am Kirovograd 0664268775 my number
Can you tell me where I can find the diagram of this block?
+Max TV is probably nowhere, I have never seen such schemes.
Alexander Zakorko 11
As I understand it, these seven legs are responsible for the front and rear turn signals?
Alexander Zakorko
good day, tell me please, you are treating the right turn, that is (from right to left) a thick leg, this is food, then a small leg is the exit of the rear right turn, then a small leg of the front right turn, in general, the question is where is the leg of the left front turn, well, if of course you called. in appearance, of course, it is logical that the leg of the left is located after the large leg on the left side after all the legs of the right turn signal. Thank you
+ Alexander Zakharov Good afternoon, one controller is the front side, the rear side is another controller, there are 4 controllers for all turn signals!
Hey! Please tell me, after you drilled the board out of the block, how did you attach it back?
+Osokin Denis honestly don't remember.
+Osokin Denis honestly don't remember.
Sergey Pidtilok ปีที่แล้ว
Max, please tell me where you ordered the controller. I have the same problem. It seems to me that this is not because of xenon, I drove about 300 thousand with Chinese xenon. and now the controller burned out.
Alexey Kureichik ปีที่แล้ว
hello, can you tell me the reason for the audi a3 1.6 gasoline, shkodav engine, changed the thermostat and coolant sensor. The temperature rises all the same, I turn on the ignition to a cold one, it immediately hits the temperature on the instrument panel 80, you start driving it drops, maybe this is also a comfort relay fooling your head
+ Alexey Kureichik can’t tell you what the problem is, but it’s definitely not a comfort block, it’s not related to engine control!
Everyone writes that it burns from xenon. But I can't understand why. After all, the halogen also does not weakly load the circuit, and the resistance of a cold incandescent lamp is far from nominal. In addition, the microcircuit that is responsible for the rotation has been pierced. Please comment.
Alexander Maltsev 10
As they explained to me, xenon gives shitty impulses (interference)
Thank you. Calmed down a bit. I kind of understand what it comes from and put the biliza half a year ago, while everything is ok, but on the drive people scare they say it will definitely burn out, but they can’t explain why.
+stas m and xenon is still working and at least henna, I still think the problem was in the installer!
Hello, can I have the contact of a person who can make such a repair?
+Taraska Hello, where are you?
Alexey Timofeev ปีที่แล้ว
Have a look, please)))
Alexey Timofeev ปีที่แล้ว
+ Alexey Timofeev what is the power of the lamps?
Alexey Timofeev ปีที่แล้ว
hello author, but you don’t know how the comfort unit will react to diodes.
Alexey Timofeev ปีที่แล้ว
Alexey Timofeev ปีที่แล้ว
hello max, and the block will not burn.
Alexey Timofeev ปีที่แล้ว
hello max, but the block will not burn?
+ Alexey Timofeev will complain
Alexander Sysoev ปีที่แล้ว
The left turn is on, which block is responsible for it? Does the neighboring one need to be soldered?
Dmitry Kuzmin ปีที่แล้ว
Respect to the author for the tip! The part is called VND5050AK-E, made by STMicroelectronics. In general, the entire Third Reich is shit! Why the heck was it to put protection against the installation of xenon, if the people put it anyway? Moreover, when buying a car, you pay for this “care” about yourself.
I would not say that the protection worked, I repaired the unit after installing xenon, now the unit and xenon have been working for how long!
King Great Power ปีที่แล้ว
Exactly the same problem on the octavia, can you tell me where you can order such a new spare part for soldering, or its designation for searching?
so what caused the comfort block?
Pasha Bartosz is most likely due to when the polarity is confused when connecting xenon
Repair of the Skoda comfort unit is a rather rare service that the SVS-Auto technical center provides to its customers. However, some car owners of this brand still have to seek help from specialists to repair this unit. Let's see what he is. However, first a few words about Skoda cars.
One of the main attributes of modern Skoda cars is the comfort unit, which is a decentralized electronic system called the Convenience Electronics System.
To understand what leads to the need for premature repair of the Skoda comfort unit, it is necessary to understand what this unit consists of and what it controls. So, the comfort unit installed on Skoda cars can control:
What can break down so that the Skoda comfort unit needs to be repaired? This system consists of electronic units to control each door, as well as a central control unit. The principle of operation of this system is very simple: after starting the engine, the control unit of each individual element creates a message that records data about the operation of various systems, their status (whether they are working) and sets of control commands. Then all modules and systems connected to the unit are polled according to the established modes. The presence of an error is established in the absence of such a message.
It is clear that the repair of the Skoda comfort unit is a rather responsible and difficult task that requires certain knowledge, skills and experience. That is why only professionals should be trusted to carry out such work. SVS-Auto offers favorable conditions for the repair of the Skoda comfort unit, guaranteeing high quality work and excellent results.
Refurbished units are guaranteed!
We repair comfort blocks in our own workshop without intermediaries!
Our address: Moscow, Dorozhnaya street, 9 (m. Prazhskaya)
Phones: 8 (499) 394-64-06
When installing non-standard xenon on Skoda Octavia A5, A7, Yeti, Superb , the comfort unit may fail BCM . Skoda , In our repair center for half an hour, we always have all the spare parts in stock.
Symptoms of a malfunction of the comfort unit:
The front left turn signal is on all the time.
No power to washer motor.
Vryatli is a block of comfort. Most likely a broken wire somewhere.
I first lost the backlight for adjusting the mirrors, and then the backlight for the central lock and power window buttons. It was like that, that is, it will go out, the door will open, the door will go out, I will close the door to appear. When driving, yes or no.
(29-09-2010 19:49) sane4ek0063 : The problem with the comfort block! When the ignition is turned off and the key is pulled out, the tape recorder does not go out! We dismantled it and checked the tape recorder, everything is ok! when we climbed to the comfort block while moving the wires, everything starts to work. How does the comfort block relate to the radio.
P.S. Damn, as you read the forum, because of comfort, the xenon does not shine, then the radio does not work, or something else. We learned the name of one block and put diagnoses ahead.
: How does the comfort block relate to the radio.
P.S. Damn, as you read the forum, because of comfort, the xenon does not shine, then the radio does not work, or something else. We learned the name of one block and put diagnoses ahead. Gyyy Max
(30-09-2010 10:21) : (29-09-2010 19:49) sane4ek0063 : The problem with the comfort unit! When the ignition is turned off and the key is pulled out, the tape recorder does not go out! wiggling the wires, everything starts to work. How does the comfort block relate to the radio.
P.S. Damn, as you read the forum, because of comfort, the xenon does not shine, then the radio does not work, or something else. We learned the name of one block and put diagnoses ahead.
Škoda Motorsport V/RS
(repair after previous car services)
Imagine the situation: you arrived in your car in a foreign city on business. Things have been done, they have gathered back. And here's the trouble - the engine stalls. And completely refuses to start.What to do? It’s 700 kilometers to your city, it’s a little expensive to haul on a tow truck. And there are no familiar workshops here. And then the sad procession through the services begins. The most honest people immediately say: “We don’t repair diesel engines.” Those who are more insolent will take money for reading errors, read them, make a helpless gesture and send them on. And the most hungry climb to repair. And this is the worst! Without normal circuits, without the correct diagnostic tool. Most importantly, without experience, poking into a modern car is a risky business! But many repairmen are not at all embarrassed. I want to eat something. There is no point in discussing the situation in the country, as a result of which the wrong people are in many places. And okay, if they start and the car goes. It is still unknown how long such a repair will last and where this car will stand next time. It is worse when, after digging properly, and having stirred up everything and everything, they do not find anything, and the car remains immobilized. They take the money (after all, the work is done), and send the owner further through the services.
But it was a saying, and now there will be a fairy tale. Perhaps exaggerating, and it was not so scary. But when this “Skoda Octavia Universal” was pushed to the diagnostic post, it was a pity for both – both the car and the owner.
You won’t look at the wiring of a car without tears.
And the owner no longer strongly believed that his fighting friend would come to life. Said only:
Universal hopelessness was in these words.
What we have? The instrument panel turns on, the ignition is on, but the starter does not turn. I connect the scanner and, of course, the charger - let it come to its senses a little.
By errors, it can be seen that all the main blocks swear at the lack of communication with the engine control unit. It is not even on the block diagram of the device. There is nothing tricky here. If the unit does not respond, then either there is no power, or there is a problem with the CAN bus. Well, the worst case is “the block itself lay down”, that is, “an internal defect”. Before that, it's too early, let's check the wiring for now. I open the diagrams, along the way I make sketches for memory.
In order not to get confused, I usually draw for myself a simple power supply circuit with relays, fuses and CAN buses. It looks, maybe not in Feng Shui, but for me it is very informative. Already with this paper, I go to the car and begin checking all the key points that relate to nutrition. The fuses are intact, but the main relay, which is responsible for powering the engine block and its components, does not turn on, respectively, the block simply does not see the ignition on and does not wake up. Moreover, a plus comes to the main relay, but there is no control minus from the engine block.
Yes, such is the scheme, the unit itself must turn on its power. It's time to check it out for yourself.
And while I'm dismantling a little part of the engine compartment, everywhere I see traces of the intervention of my predecessors. Well, commendable, it means I'm not the only one on the trail. Gives hope. But all hopes are shattered with a bang when the actual control unit appears before my eyes.
Or rather, what was left of him with such rude and thoughtless treatment.
Honestly, I want to cry when you see such a barbaric attitude towards technology. It seems that at the beginning of the article he was wrong, everything that was before us was even worse than he could have thought.
OPEN BLOCK. This is who had the brains to get into the brains.
I saw blocks after chip tuning, sometimes there is a need to open the block, but literate people carefully close the block after all operations so that it looks better than new. And here is a dirty, ill-mannered interference, either with a screwdriver, or with an ax (or an ax and a crowbar).They tried to open it, it didn’t work, somehow they pushed it back, and bye!
Even if the problem was not in the brain at all, now it is already in the brain. Congratulations, they wanted to cure - they killed to the end!
Okay, it's too early to panic, I promised to start it, we must use all options. But the first point of our recommendations is now “replacement of the engine control unit”. I'm sure there are competent specialists who disassemble and assemble such blocks ten times a day, they will say, what's the deal? But this question is not in my competence, according to our rules, there should only be a replacement of the block.
Okay, back to checking the power supply of the control unit directly on it. The mass is good, the main plus comes, but there is no plus from the ignition. It comes out of the fuse block, but does not reach the engine block. It is not surprising that the unit does not turn on the main relay - it simply does not see the ignition. You have to open up the wiring. I get approval from the client (tiredly waves his hand, they say, “look what you want, everything has already been checked before you ...)
And I'm horrified. And here, in the wiring, the restless hands of the previous “diagnoses” also visited.
How can a power wire with a cross section of 4 mm be simply coiled and thrown under the fuse box? Just wind up? No isolation? The further, the more terrible. But the most interesting thing is that on the very positive ignition wire at a distance of half a meter I found 7 (SEVEN). incisions. This is such a method for diagnosing wiring - cut the insulation to the current-carrying core and check if there is a plus?
This is the most terrible method, given that the engine compartment has constant fluctuations in humidity and temperature. To live the wire after such a check is at best a year. But we must pay tribute, in some places the cuts were wrapped with electrical tape. Chickens for laughs. I won’t say anything, there are very, very rare cases when you need to divide the wiring section into two parts in order to clarify the place of the break. We do not have a special device for finding a cliff, although the thing is very useful. In this case, gritting my heart, I simply cut the wiring, find out in which part of the break and be sure to restore the wire in this place according to all standards.
I find a break. The funny thing is that my previous colleagues did not get to him just a couple of centimeters, this can be seen from the unwound electrical tape. The break, or rather the oxidation that led to the break, turned out to be in the place of one of the insulation cuts. How many more time bombs like this? We will not risk it, and therefore the second item in our recommendation is “replacement of the engine compartment wiring harness”. I am temporarily twisting the wires, because there is no point in restoring it: seven cliffs are waiting for it in the near future. Great, the main relay is activated, the engine block is communicating. But also not immediately, I had to dance a little with a tambourine, as it turned out, the relays were mixed up before me, but these are trifles. The mood rises, the starter turns. But it doesn't start. What's on the scanner? After removing temporary errors, two remain, and both say that the control unit is faulty.
And what can be expected from the opened brains. The mood drops. Basically, I bring it to the end: I check the revocable and the collection of decisions with similar symptoms. I can’t believe my eyes - with such an error, you should update the software of the control unit! Since you've already sentenced him, why not give it a try? I connect to the portal, the update starts. I bite my nails hard for twenty minutes. Oh wow, the update was successful! Now we still have a bunch of errors on the particulate filter, the recirculation system, but not a single one that the unit is faulty. Hooray! Victoriously twist the starter. Yeah, how! Does not start.
It's time for tea. And think. Good to think. Diesel won't start. What could be easier? Roughly - either there is no diesel fuel, or there is no air. I exclude glow plugs - it's warm in the box. Let's check the measured values in the engine. And what is the pressure of diesel fuel in the ramp? But zero! That is, there is no pressure. Yeah, attacked the trail, tea clears the brain.I carefully inspect the high pressure rail and pipelines. Stop! And where do we get a puddle near the first cylinder? And it doesn't smell like oil.
And it was some smart guy who had the wit to unscrew the high-pressure pipeline at the first nozzle! Bravo! On the engine, which even the starter does not turn, they checked the flow of fuel. Okay, “I checked, so screw it back in place!”. The ramp for all cylinders is common - this is Common Rail, and through one leak all the pressure comes out. I twist the pipeline. The engine starts with half a kick. Smile from ear to ear. He promised - he started.
Second act. We invite the client. I show everything that heaped up to me. I explain that the engine is running, but you can’t drive like that. There are long tedious negotiations to do it somehow, but somehow I don’t do it ... it turns out that the engine was chipped at one time: the recirculation system and the particulate filter were removed. The further, the more terrible. Now I can’t delete errors on these systems - I uploaded some new software. As a result, we come to a consensus - I do what I can honestly find, I make sure that the car is on the move, but there are no guarantees, especially considering chip tuning. The client has nowhere to go, and he leaves the car for the night.
I will not tell you how many new wires and profanity were used in the repair process. Only time. Troubleshooting, starting the engine - 2 hours. Restoration of wiring and assembly to a decent condition - 6 hours. If this car had been dragged to me to the first one, I think that in an hour the car would have left under its own power. And now what to do with the open engine block, which is under the windshield, where is the permanent water? There is nothing better than a plastic bag!
He wiped away a mean tear when he created this “collective farm” with his own hands. He explained to the client that the very first thing is to collect these brains normally from the chip makers. When I put everything in place, I read the rest of the errors. Everything is there - from burnt out light bulbs to worn pads.
Video (click to play).
It’s a pity that the car didn’t deserve such an attitude ... I think the brains will ride in the package until they turn green.
