homeBudgetBmw e36 do it yourself steering rack repair
Bmw e36 do it yourself steering rack repair
Details: bmw e36 do-it-yourself steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The gur system of the BMW E36 (power steering) is quite simple. It goes, as it were, apart from everything else, in contact with the engine at the attachment point of the power steering pump and with the steering shaft near the steering rack. Of course, the V-belt that turns the attachment on the engine also turns the power steering pump. Otherwise, the system is autonomous.
The power steering includes the pump mentioned above, an expander reservoir, a steering rack and high-pressure conductive hoses that connect it all. The meaning is that the engine builds pressure into the steering rack, helping the driver turn the steering wheel, the expansion tank makes sure that there is a constant fluid-filled circuit in the system, and the steering rack increases the driver's effort by converting the power steering fluid pressure into the desired vector depending on the direction of rotation steering wheel.
The weak point of the car, as many believe, forgetting that the car is no longer new, and this unit is under constant load. The steering rack of the BMW E36 is no better than on other cars.
There are two types of power steering in cars - hydraulic and electric. we do not touch on the second, but the first is the same for all and differs only on the basis of the design features of the car. The principle of operation has already been briefly announced - the redistribution of additional effort from the fluid under high pressure towards the steering wheel. Hence the first conclusion - the car can drive safely, in the event of a power steering malfunction, it will only be harder to turn the steering wheel.
The next important point is that the currently old rail simply cannot but break. This is primarily reflected in oil leaks under the machine. Determined visually. It is necessary to repair it, since the oil must not flow out of the system, otherwise sooner or later everything will leak out, the circuit will air up and there will be problems with the pump.
It will not be possible to repair it yourself - the maximum (and often the minimum) must be removed and given to the workshop by turners and locksmiths.
Tips often have to be changed - they break from ours dearly. You can do this yourself, and even without a pit - just by unscrewing the wheel and lifting the machine from the working side with a jack.
Video (click to play).
The gur bmw e36 pump is attached to the engine in the front from the lower right side, if you float in front of the car. Tank, rail and pump are nearby.
Power steering pumps are not repaired, since the cost of repair is comparable to the cost of a new pump. The price of the issue is from 50 USD. for Chinese substitutes, up to 300 for a native BMW.
Trouble begins with the hum of the pump. If the hum is strong, similar to grinding and reacts to the movement of the steering wheel, then the first step is to check the fluid level in the hydraulic booster reservoir. If empty - top up and look for where it leaks (usually from the steering rack) Here it is described how to replace the power steering fluid.
In addition to the absence of fluid in the system, airiness, clogging of the line with debris (usually a filter) or a weakening of the V-belt (the latter is unlikely) may occur. In any case, problems appear either with a characteristic hum from under the hood, or with an increase in the load on the steering wheel when cornering.
The repair consists first in replacing the power steering fluid, then, if the first did not help, replacing the pump and fluid.
09 July 2012
oil flows from the steering rack where the steering wheel is attached. Is there some kind of oil seal? with a hydraulic booster.
Probably just need to change the sealing washers.
09 July 2012
09 July 2012
10 July 2012
Is it possible to eliminate the leak yourself?
Of course it is possible, but this is provided that the arms grow from the right place. You buy a steering rack repair kit and change the whole thing.If my memory is not mistaken, then you only need to replace the oil seals on the shaft, there are 8 of them. If it leaks from the bolt that connects the g / y and the rail, then replace the washers.
10 July 2012
Smoke a google search, there should be a detailed report.
10 July 2012
people, tell me who did it himself
I did it myself. If it flows from the rail itself, then I do not advise you to climb inside it, since you need to know where to turn and turn what. Here, for example, a photo of a repair kit, if you can replace the whole thing, then go ahead.
01011272001.gif3.75K 39 Number of downloads:
10 July 2012
leilton 11 July 2012
11 July 2012
the rail also flowed. I took it off, but not completely disassembled it. flowed only on one side, which is shorter, I bought the oil seal and replaced all the leaks for a year now. It is easy to understand just not to confuse how to put the worm you need.
The steering racks on the famous "boomers" are those integral parts that require regular complex repairs and maintenance. Fans of a "sporty" driving style are especially affected, but this should not be surprising, since the steering mechanism in such a situation is exposed to excessive loads.
Of course, the most important thing in a renovation is its cost. We did a little research and called both local "Kuzmichs" and normal salons. The cost is about one - starts from 5,000 rubles, ending with 90,000 rubles.
And if you order the racks on Ebey yourself and give it in the salon, you can keep within 20 thousand rubles. The rake itself will cost 15 thousand rubles, and the installation will cost 5 thousand rubles.
To carry out repairs on these models, the steps should be similar. First, the rail is dismantled and cleaned of the existing dirt. After that, it is visually inspected and tested on a stand that artificially creates working conditions.
The repair itself may consist of replacing:
faulty parts,
bushings,
seals,
as well as surface grinding.
At the end of the work, the rack is mounted back, hydraulic fluid is poured and tested. Sometimes such repairs can be done by yourself if the violations are minor. When sanding is needed, a service center is indispensable.
Raise the car higher to make it easier to work.
We drain the liquid.
We remove the wheels and unscrew the rods with levers.
Let's raise the engine.
We unscrew the pillows and stretcher.
Then we remove the rail by disconnecting the hoses. It only goes to the right.
We unscrew it from the traction rail and wash it.
On the E60 fives, the most sore spot is associated with the rail:
Because of her, appear clang and knock when crossing irregularities. The repair consists of a complete disassembly, replacement of bushings (and it is advisable for domestic realities to install not factory ones, but self-made ones with reinforcement), replacement of lubricant and fluid.
An example of a new and clean steering rack. Focus on them - it's better to pay a little extra than to buy the part again later.
Here is a video, maybe some tricks will help you:
We drain the liquid, then remove the rail. In general, we do everything according to the photo gallery:
Before removing the centering plastic sleeve from the worm, remember its location. Remove the retaining ring and unscrew the worm cap and nut. Dismantle the worm. From the right rack and pinion end, remove the flange that has the gland and bushing. Mount the new parts in the same way.
A typical BMW E30 steering rack is as small as the car itself.
After removing the rail, knock out and unscrew the cover equipped with an adjusting screw. The bushings are pressed in by the factory, so you need to pick them out. Better to change to homemade (from caprolon) sliding fit.
To fix them, drill a hole in the housing, cut the threads and screw in the retainer. After installation by punching, fix the cover.
Drive on good roads! No other way - a German made a car specifically for high-quality highways, not ours ...
Therefore, BMW enthusiasts should think about the consequences of ill-conceived races on rough terrain. So that.
Comments on article 5, leave yours:
I still didn't find a man, but your instructions helped my e36 boomer a lot!)))
Thank you for the detailed instructions with photos, otherwise I was tormented with these slats. Of course, when I bought the 2004 X5, I knew that I would run into some problems, but not with the steering wheel -))
Thank you very much for such a clear instruction, thanks to you, I refrained from going to the car service and saved a lot of money, I recommend everyone to repair the steering racks on their own - there is nothing complicated about it.
As they say, the eyes are afraid, but the hands do =)
in general, it is not safe to carry out such repair work yourself, it is better to take the car to a MOT or to some kind of car service, than later it turns out that it is three times more expensive to restore what you thought of there than a simple repair of rails
If knocks and leaks of the steering rack were noticed, do not rush to look for a new one, it is not difficult to repair it yourself. Below, as an example, the repair of a Bmw e46 TRW rail is considered. The rail is quite old, this company does not make repair kits, it is difficult with spare parts, but there is one place where you can buy everything and it is quite cheap. We drain the slurry, throw off the rail, wash it, so that it would be easier to work.
We turn away everything that can be turned away
Good day to all! Tell me if you know. The situation is this: when turning the steering wheel out of the extreme p.
Hello everyone, there was a vibration from 1000-1500 rpm, I wang an automatic transmission on a bagel, in fact, what kind of offices.
Hello everybody. Maybe someone has contacts of an intelligent repairman.
I welcome everyone. The theme is this. Due to the increased fuel consumption and gray smoke during acceleration above avg.
hi guys) selling original.
Hello. Italian replica, wide: front 8j, bridgestone tires 225/35/19 rear 9j.
Who collided ?, bmw e39 crack on the glass at the point of attachment of the rack, the crack comes out of the hole.
Author Topic: repair of the steering rack E36 (Read 2901 times)
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tysum Dec 17, 2015 12:10 pm
Mr_nice_guy Dec 17, 2015 12:44 pm
Turn this nut clockwise. Only twist there very gently, literally by division or even half division. And it is better to outline where you started to twist. In general, if there is output in a worm or shaft, then it will not help there, you will squeeze the rack, it will spin harder, but the backlash will not go away really, and the pump will pump harder and it may die.
Maximka Dec 17, 2015 12:45 pm
tysum Dec 17, 2015 12:51 pm
tysum 17 Dec 2015, 13:01
Mr_nice_guy wrote:
Turn this nut clockwise. Only twist there very gently, literally by division or even half division. And it is better to outline where you started to twist. In general, if there is output in a worm or shaft, then it will not help there, you will squeeze the rack, it will spin harder, but the backlash will not go away really, and the pump will pump harder and it may die.
Mr_nice_guy 17 Dec 2015, 13:29
There was the same garbage with fat, the tightening does not help, I tried it myself, the restoration of the rail solved the issue. I will not say about unscrewing. A knock can cause worn bushings and the tightening has nothing to do with them. Better to give the rail for restoration or try to find a live one.
Maximka 17 Dec 2015, 13:31
Kulichok 17 Dec 2015, 13:33
Edelweiss 17 Dec 2015, 13:49
tysum 17 Dec 2015, 13:54
Mr_nice_guy 17 Dec 2015, 13:55
Reiku boo is a cat in a poke, I changed the boo rail and it went as far as 5 thousand km from me and knocked, although they removed it from the car with low mileage. Previously, they cost 100 tanks, that is, 800-1000 UAH, which was normal, now they ask for 2500 and no guarantees, you can arrange a warehouse of rails in the garage. Repair costs UAH 2,000. Those who restore normally, change everything there, check under pressure and give a guarantee, they gave me 40 thousand. If the shaft of the khan, they do not even take it for repairs.Well, so everyone decides for himself.
Edelweiss Dec 17, 2015 4:02 pm
BMW steering rack repair. If you notice knocks or leaks of the steering rack, you should not immediately run to a car service and install a new one, try to repair it yourself. In this article, we will look at the procedure for repairing a steering rack using the example of a BMW e46.
The main factors indicating the presence of malfunctions of the BMW steering rack are considered to be a characteristic knock from the front or right side of the suspension or oil leak. When these signs appear, do not panic ahead of time. The reason for the noise can be steel, simple loosening of the rail from external influences. Such a defect is corrected by a banal adjustment of a special screw. The cause of the leak can be a worn-out steering rack oil seal, which is easy to replace.
Dismantle the steering gear
If the above signs are found, the nature of the breakdown should be identified. Before starting the procedure for repairing the steering rack of a BMW (like a car equipped with airbags), first lock the wheels in the "straight" position, then remove the ignition key from the lock. Ignoring this requirement may damage the loop that signals the driver's airbag, up to and including rupture.
We dismantle the steering gear, for this:
1. We put the car on a viewing ditch or lift. 2. We pump out the fluid from the power steering reservoir. 3. Dismantle the front wheels and remove the tie rod ends. 4. Unscrew the nuts and bolts holding the shaft and body bracket and remove the bracket together with the steering wheel and shafts. 5. Unscrewing the nuts from the side of the hood, we separate the steering gear from the front of the body. 6. Give the steering gear forward until the pinion comes out of the front of the body. 7. Remove the steering gear by pulling it out in the direction of the right wheel. All dismantled parts must be rinsed, or blown out with compressed air.
We repair the steering rackBmw
We drain the liquid, remove the rail, thoroughly wash it, in particular, to make it easier to find defects.
We turn away all the parts that can be turned off.
On the right you will see a retaining ring, remove it.
From the top of the worm we take out the plastic centering sleeve (be sure to remember its position) and we see the retaining ring, remove it. Unscrew the cap from the bottom, then the worm nut and carefully knock it out.
Then, at the right end of the rail, we begin to slowly remove the flange with the bushing and the oil seal, pulling the shaft towards us.
We take out the oil seal and bushing
Install new parts in the same way. I pressed it with my hands, resting the flange on the table. We clean the rail inside with gasoline. There is another oil seal in the center of the rail, I knocked it out with a long-handled screwdriver. A new oil seal can be installed in two ways: with a shaft or a head (you need to wrap it with paper tape to avoid damaging the mirror). In our case, the second method was used, it seemed more practical and convenient.
If there are defects on the worm or on the shaft, rubbing (belt) from the oil seals, you should polish these places with an abrasive cloth 2000. The piston rings (let's call them that) on the shaft and the worm, in my case, were in good condition, so I did not touch them ...
We replace oil seals, fluoroplastic (caprolon) elements with new ones from rem. Kit, and also lubricate the bearings with pentosin.
Now we begin to insert the shaft, having previously wrapped the teeth with paper tape, so we will not damage the internal oil seal. There are two ways to wrap the teeth: grease them a little with pentosine or oil and wind up the tape. Thus, we get a kind of cover that can be easily removed. Or we glue paper tape with a strip of several layers on the toothed part of the shaft.
It's time to insert the worm. If necessary, you can turn it 180 degrees if there are signs of wear (in my case, I did not turn it over). To do this, as I indicated above, you need to remember (mark) the position of the plastic guide of the worm.
Be sure to treat the gear pair with new grease.I smeared with Castrolovsky lithol of a bright green color, in theory it should contain lithium additives. The price is about 300 rubles.
The photo shows the contents of two original ZF kits for one rail. Zap. parts can be purchased at>
Pride of the Club
Club Messages: 8830 Registration: 1.8.2005 From: Lithuania (Visaginas) -Piter (SW)
Pride of the Club
User Messages: 3283 Registration: 2.2.2004 From: Moscow
a similar situation - I decided to buy a new one.
experience in repairing a rail on Opel - it was enough for 30,000 km - money was thrown out IMHO, although it might just not be lucky, especially since this is not a gur, not some kind of gadget - but very good. responsible steering unit!
Pride of the Club
Club Messages: 8830 Registration: 1.8.2005 From: Lithuania (Visaginas) -Piter (SW)
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Pride of the Club
Club Messages: 8830 Registration: 1.8.2005 From: Lithuania (Visaginas) -Piter (SW)
Honorary Citizen
User Posts: 298 Registration date: 16.12.2005 From: Baku
similarly, but I just pulled it up, it seemed to help but not very much, I am also going to either change or restore
Pride of the Club
User Messages: 3283 Registration: 2.2.2004 From: Moscow
what are you confusing - there is no pendulum in this mechanism!
and the backlash during your check may be due to
1.backlash in the steering shaft cardan
3.backlash in the steering rod joints (tips)
5.backlash in the wheel bearing
if you check the steering - then you must first understand where the backlash occurs, otherwise the rail is not cheap pleasure 😉
Pride of the Club
Club Messages: 8830 Registration: 1.8.2005 From: Lithuania (Visaginas) -Piter (SW)
Pride of the Club
Club Messages: 8830 Registration: 1.8.2005 From: Lithuania (Visaginas) -Piter (SW)
similarly, but I just pulled it up, it seemed to help but not very much, I am also going to either change or restore
similarly, but I just pulled it up, it seemed to help but not very much, I am also going to either change or restore
Top .. on the rail. head 17
Honorary Citizen
User Posts: 363 Registration: 23.3.2006 From Baku
similarly, but I just pulled it up, it seemed to help but not very much, I am also going to either change or restore
Top .. on the rail. head 17
Just be careful not to drag! They pulled me over, and at low speeds (10-30), going around small irregularities, an incomprehensible creak appeared, and the steering wheel almost did not return.
They weakened a little and everything went away.
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Pride of the Club
Club Messages: 8830 Registration: 1.8.2005 From: Lithuania (Visaginas) -Piter (SW)
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By the way, I have a similar problem.
Steering rack for E34 M30 engine.
Everything is fine, and the splines at the cross-piece are normal, but when I drive the steering wheel slightly to the sides I drive slightly something taps.
He climbed under the car, checked the crosspiece, took hold of it and moved it to the sides, it was caught inside the block somehow after the crosspiece.
They say that there needs to be tightened some kind of nut.
We turn away everything that can be turned away.
There is such a locking ring on the right, we take it out.
From the top of the worm, remove the plastic centering sleeve (you need to remember its original position), there we see the retaining ring, remove it.
We circle the cap from below, then the worm nut and begin to gently knock it out.
Next, at the right end of the rail, we begin to pull out the flange with the bushing and the gland, pulling the shaft towards ourselves. This is how this thing looks like.
We take out the oil seal and the bushing. In the same way, we press in new parts. I pressed it by hand, putting the flange on the table. Thoroughly rinse the rail inside with gasoline. In the center of the rail there is another oil seal, it needs to be broken with a screwdriver with a long handle. You can press it in two ways: Shaft and Head (be sure to wrap it with paper tape to avoid damaging the mirror).
If on the shaft or on the worm there are scuffs (belt) from the stuffing boxes, you need to polish with an abrasive sandpaper 2000. The piston rings (let's call them conditionally) on the worms and the shaft in my case were not worn out, so I did not touch them. ) elements on those that are in the repair kit + bearings, lubricate them with pentosin. Next, we begin to carefully insert the shaft, having previously wrapped the teeth with paper tape, so as not to spoil the internal oil seal. You can also wrap in two ways: lightly grease the teeth with oil or pentosin, then wind the tape around it. As a result, we get something similar to a cover, which is then not difficult to remove. Or, in a strip in several layers, we glue paper tape on the toothed part of the shaft.
We begin to insert the worm. If desired, you can turn it 180 degrees, if there is a suspicion of wear (it did not turn it over), for this, as I wrote above, you need to remember the position of the plastic guide of the worm. Be sure to lubricate the gear pair with new grease. I used a bright green Castrol lithol for this, theoretically it should be with lithium additives.
In this photo report, you will learn all the main points of how to make steering rack repair do it yourself on a BMW 3 series car in the back of an e46. The reasons that prompted us to this action are constant smudges and knocking from the steering rack. It should be noted that this device can be partially repaired in almost any case, and not completely replaced. What we will demonstrate to you.
For this topic, you can also watch a video about repairing a steering rack BMW E46.
as promised, I post a mini report on my repair of the rail.
experimental: gur'a rail from e36 / 46 (here it must be said that the e46 had the same rails with a number of 3.25, but the air bypass between the anthers was carried out through the cavity in the rack rod, and not through the rack body as on the e36.there is also one difference but more on it later)
I will not rewrite the points described above 1-4, I will just add: 5. wear of the rack housing in the area of the spool.
the spool has caprolon (fluoroplastic) seating rings, they are sealing and must rotate together with the spool. But in view of the fact that in some early tanks of the gur there were filters, but now they are not (not verified by me, I just heard from someone), then dust and debris when unscrewing the lid, pouring ATF, replacing / disconnecting / connecting hoses, is not filtered, but chases in a circle. Thanks to the dust called "silver" from the natural wear of the pump, as well as mostly from the debris brought in, the casing is also worn out. when installing new rings on the spool, when installing the latter in the body, depending on the depth of the grooves, the rings can simply be pulled up with sharp edges, or if it so happens that the wear is not very large (not deep grooves) then the maximum that can be achieved by the bulkhead is no rail leaks, but how the rail spun a little at some speed, or only in one direction, or buzzed, so it will continue to do so. because the oil seals (fluoroplastic rings) let the gora go through, although they shouldn't.
In general, after the bulkhead, the second time of my rail, I was puzzled by the question of finding a living body. It was possible to take the path of least resistance - to buy a rail from E46 in a Jewish car and not blow your mustache. but I am a "wanker" - as some call me and "here you have nothing else to do." in the 36th service, I begged a bunch of run-down rails that they did not have time to throw out, out of 5 cases, none were without wear. - Well, it cannot be such that no one bothered at least with the restoration of the buildings, well, they must be repaired. I said to myself and began to wool the Internet and offices (the Neva is among them) In general, everyone sent me, both the Neva and the Internet, not a single word about repairing the hull. The new rake is around 15k, you can certainly strangle the toad, slobber and buy, but. externally the rake is whole, there was no special knocking. Well, it flowed, well, fuck it. I'm still a wanker
I decided to turn the body around, everything is simple, by analogy with casing the engine blocks, boring the body, making the sleeve and landing. omit the moment of search and the price for this pleasure))))
I have a rack body with a steel sleeve in my hands, half satisfied, it remains to assemble everything and test my theory in action.
it turned out like this:
collecting and disassembling the rail is nothing complicated, the most difficult thing is to pick out two retaining rings without any extra effort and pick out how to knock out the old oil seals, and actually how to put them back in place. during the bulkhead, I used this repair kit: 501448016 at the price of 600r earlier, during bulkheads, I also used more expensive kits, differences in the number of ingredients in the kits, material, dimensions. not noticed. then it makes sense to pay 1000-2000r.?
The rail is assembled, installed, and run-in for the second day. much softer, the rumble disappeared. The only thing I have is a run-down pump, at idle the steering wheel is noticeably tight, there is not enough pressure, but here already, either look for a worker. again, a cat in a poke or a new one.
A few words about a pair of worm-rake. wear, in principle, is visible to the eye there, if the finger does not feel the steps / development, then you can not steam and collect it back (I had a worm with production, I put the worm from another rail, the stock left the old one) and also during assembly I replaced the spring with more strong.
that's essentially all. nothing complicated, the bulkhead of the rail takes a couple of hours in time if with beer.
BMW cars are one of the most reliable cars in the world, but even for them such a thing as repair is not alien. Especially when it comes to issues such as BMW steering rack repair... The main reason for this lies not at all in poor quality, but rather in incorrect handling during operation.
What causes steering rack malfunctions? First, the poor condition of the roads, which today, although it has become a much smaller problem than 20 years ago, is still not ideal. Secondly, the frequent holding of the steering wheel in the state of maximum stop. And, thirdly, elementary wear of the mechanical and hydraulic parts, accumulation of dirt, dust, etc. It should be said that a malfunction of the steering rack can provoke a serious accident, which is not very pleasant to agree. In order to prevent this situation, it is recommended to inspect the unit to determine whether it is required BMW steering rack repair, at least once every six months.
What is BMW steering rack repair? This process includes a number of activities: diagnostics, identification of malfunctions and their causes, determination of the stability of the rail operation, as well as cleaning from contamination, replacement and repair of parts, and subsequent testing in working conditions.
Perhaps the main symptom of a malfunctioning steering rack is the appearance of a characteristic tapping in the front suspension, which occurs as a result of mechanical wear. In addition, there may be obstructed rotation and backlash of the steering wheel, increased noise of the power steering pump, as well as leakage of power steering fluid from the rack housing.
By the way, it is not at all necessary that all these signs indicate a malfunction of the rail, it is quite possible that it simply loosened from vibrations while driving. And that means BMW steering rack repair will not be too burdensome.
Regardless of whether you require repair steering rack bmw e36 or repair steering rack bmw e39, it will in any case begin with a diagnosis of the condition. To carry it out, the rail is dismantled and subjected to initial cleaning from possible contamination. Further, a visual inspection and testing is carried out on special equipment, where conditions are artificially created that simulate an operating state.
The repair process can include repairing and replacing defective parts, sanding surfaces, replacing seals and lubricants, bushings, etc.At the end of all work, the steering rack is mounted back, and after filling with hydraulic fluid, it is tested to establish the correctness of the repair.
In some cases, the rail can be repaired even on your own, but only if the malfunctions in the work are insignificant. In case of serious malfunctions, to obtain an accurate diagnosis, you should only contact the service center.
Testimonial from a car owner named Illarion: Traveled 124,000 km and replaced only the hub bearing.
Category: Car repair
Characteristics of the car: The dimensions of the car are as follows, body length - 3554, width - 1100, height - 1782 mm. The wheelbase is 2253 mm. The ground clearance is 128 mm. The car is equipped with a hybrid power unit. The 4-cylinder engine is equipped with a system that provides the output power of the motor. There are 4 valves per cylinder. The diameter of one cylinder is 77 mm, the piston stroke is 77 mm. The engine crankshaft and accelerates to 6,000 rpm. The maximum torque is maintained up to 4000 rpm.
Posted by admin: at Paul's request
Original title: Reparation steering rack til BMW E36 dine egne h? Nder
Release date: 12.05.2014
Video (click to play).
Laughter in the subject: Looking at his wife, I made the following conclusion: Only a woman, having discussed the topic on the phone for twenty minutes, can tell her friend: “Okay, we'll talk when we meet - this is not a telephone conversation”.