In detail: bmw e36 do-it-yourself steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The bmw e36 gur system (power steering) is quite simple. It goes, as it were, apart from everything else, in contact with the engine at the attachment point of the power steering pump and with the steering shaft near the steering rack. Of course, the V-belt that turns the attachment on the engine also turns the power steering pump. The rest of the system is autonomous.
The power steering includes the pump mentioned above, the expander tank, the steering rack and the high pressure conductive hoses that connect it all. The meaning is that the engine pressurizes the steering rack, helping the driver turn the steering wheel, the expansion tank ensures that there is a constant fluid-filled circuit in the system, and the steering rack increases the driver's effort by converting the power steering fluid pressure into the desired vector depending on the direction of rotation steering wheel.
The weak point of the car, as many people think, forgetting that the car is no longer new, and this unit is under constant load. The BMW E36 steering rack is no better or worse than on other cars.
There are two types of power steering in cars - hydraulic and electric. we do not touch the second, and the first is the same for everyone and differs only on the basis of the design features of the car. The principle of operation has already been briefly announced - the redistribution of additional effort from a fluid under high pressure in the direction of turning the steering wheel. Hence the first conclusion - the car can safely drive, in the event of a power steering malfunction, it will only be harder to turn the steering wheel.
The next important point is that the currently old rail simply cannot but break. This is expressed primarily in smudges of oil under the car. determined visually. It is necessary to repair, since the oil must not flow out of the system, otherwise sooner or later everything will leak out, the circuit will become airy and there will be problems with the pump.
You won’t be able to repair it yourself - the maximum (and often the minimum) you need to remove yourself and give it to the workshop of turners and locksmiths.
Tips often have to be changed - they break from our expensive ones. You can do this yourself, and even without a pit - simply by turning the wheel and lifting the car from the working side with a jack.
Video (click to play).
The bmw e36 gur pump is attached to the engine in front from the lower right side, if you stand in front of the car. The tank, rail and pump are nearby.
Power steering pumps are not repaired, since the cost of repair is comparable to the cost of a new pump. Issue price from 50 USD for Chinese substitutes, up to 300 for a native BMW.
Trouble begins with the hum of the pump. If the hum is strong, looks like a rattle and reacts to the movement of the steering wheel, then the first thing to do is to check the fluid level in the hydraulic booster reservoir. If it's empty, add it and look for where it's leaking from (usually from the steering rack) Here is how to replace the power steering fluid.
In addition to the missing fluid in the system, air may occur, clogging of the line with debris (usually a filter) or weakening of the V-belt (the latter is unlikely). In any case, problems appear either with a characteristic hum from under the hood, or an increase in the load on the steering wheel in corners.
The repair consists first in replacing the power steering fluid, then, if the first did not help, replacing the pump and fluid.
09 July 2012
oil is leaking from the steering rack where the steering wheel is attached. Is there some kind of oil seal? With a hydraulic booster.
Probably just need to change the sealing washers.
09 July 2012
09 July 2012
10 July 2012
Is it possible to fix the leak yourself?
Of course it is possible, but this is provided that the hands grow from the right place. You buy a steering rack repair kit and change the whole thing.If my memory is correct, then you only need to replace the oil seals on the shaft, there are 8 of them. If there is a leak from the bolt that connects the g / y and the rail, then the replacement of the washers.
10 July 2012
Do a Google search, there should be a detailed report.
10 July 2012
people tell me who did it
I did it myself. If it flows from the rail itself, then I don’t advise you to climb inside it, since you need to know where to twist and turn. For example, here is a photo of a repair kit for you, if you can replace the whole thing, then go ahead.
01011272001.gif3.75K 39 Number of downloads:
10 July 2012
11 July 2012
11 July 2012
rake also flowed. I took it apart and disassembled it, but not completely. flowed only on one side, which is shorter, bought a seal and replaced all the leaks for a year now. It is easy to disassemble, just do not confuse how to put the worm.
The steering racks on the famous "boomers" are those components that require regular complex repairs and maintenance. Fans of a “sporty” driving style are especially affected, but this should not be surprising, since the steering mechanism in such a situation experiences excessive loads.
Of course, the most important thing in repair is its cost. We did a little research and called both local "kuzmichi" and normal salons. The cost is about the same starts from 5,000 rubles, ending with 90,000 rubles.
And if you order rails on Ebee yourself and give them in the cabin, you can meet 20 thousand rubles. The rail itself will cost 15 thousand rubles, and the installation will cost 5 thousand rubles.
To repair these models, the steps should be similar. First, the rail is dismantled and cleaned of existing contaminants. After that, it is visually inspected and tested on a stand that artificially creates working conditions.
The repair itself may consist of replacing:
faulty parts,
bushings,
seals,
as well as surface grinding.
At the end of the work, the rail is mounted back, hydraulic fluid is poured in and tested. Sometimes such repairs can be done by yourself if the violations are minor. When grinding is necessary, a service center is indispensable.
We raise the car higher so that it is more convenient to work.
Drain the liquid.
We remove the wheels and unscrew the traction with levers.
Raise the engine.
We unscrew the pillows and the stretcher.
Then remove the rail, disconnecting the hoses. It only exits to the right.
We unscrew the thrust from the rail and wash it.
On the fives of the E60, the most sore point is connected with the rail:
Because of it appear clang and thud when crossing bumps. The repair consists of a complete disassembly, replacement of the bushings (and it is desirable for domestic realities to install not factory-made, but self-made ones with reinforcement), replacement of lubricants and fluids.
An example of a new and clean steering rack. Focus on them - it's better to pay a little extra than to buy the part again later.
Here is a video, maybe some tricks will help you:
Drain the liquid, then remove the rail. In general, we do everything according to the photo gallery:
Before removing the centering plastic sleeve from the worm, remember its location. Remove the retaining ring and unscrew the cap and nut of the worm. Dismantle the worm. On the right rack end, remove the flange having the gland and bushing. Install new parts in the same way.
A typical BMW E30 steering rack is small, like the car itself.
After removing the rack, pry off and unscrew the cover equipped with an adjusting screw. The bushings are pressed in by the factory, so you need to pick them out. It is better to change for home-made (from caprolon) on a sliding fit.
To fix them, drill a hole in the housing, cut the thread and screw in the lock. Fix the cover after punching installation.
Drive on good roads! No other way - the German made the car specifically for high-quality highways, not ours...
Therefore, BMW fans should think about the consequences of ill-conceived races over rugged terrain. So that.
Comments on article 5, leave your:
I still didn’t find a man, but your instruction helped my e36 boomer a lot!)))
Thank you for the detailed instructions with photos, otherwise I suffered with these rails. Of course, when buying X5 in 2004, I knew that I would run into some problems, but not with the steering wheel -))
Thank you very much for such a clear instruction, thanks to you I refrained from going to a car service and saved a lot of money, I recommend everyone to repair the steering racks on their own - there is nothing complicated about it.
As they say, the eyes are afraid, but the hands do =)
in general, it’s not safe to carry out such repair work yourself, it’s better to take the car for maintenance or to some kind of car service, than it will later turn out that restoring what you wised up there is three times more expensive than a simple rail repair
If knocks and leaks of the steering rack were noticed, do not rush to look for a new one, it is not difficult to repair it yourself. Below, as an example, the repair of the Bmw e46 TRW rail is considered. The rail is quite old, this company does not make repair kits, it is difficult with spare parts, but there is one place where you can buy everything and cheap enough. We drain the slurry, take off the rail, wash it, so that it would be easier to work.
Turning off everything that can be turned off
Good day to all! Let me know if you know. The situation is as follows: when turning the steering wheel from the extreme p.
Hello everyone, there was a vibration from 1000-1500 rpm, I vanguy on a bagel automatic transmission, in fact, what kind of offices.
Hello everybody. Maybe someone has the contacts of an intelligent repairman.
I welcome everyone. The theme is this. Due to increased fuel consumption and gray smoke during acceleration above cf.
hello guys) selling the original.
Hello. Italian replica, different widths: front 8j, tires bridgestone 225/35/19 rear 9j.
Who came across ?, bmw e39 crack on the glass at the point of attachment of the rack, the crack comes out of the hole.
BMW X5 E53, dorestyle, trunk lock top cover stopped closing. In general, nothing complicated.
Auto e53 restyling. Prices are much cheaper than any store by 30-50 percent. Spare parts left after
Hello everyone. My name is Vladimir. Registered here to offer my services. There is very much.
tysum 17 Dec 2015, 12:10
Mr_nice_guy 17 Dec 2015, 12:44
Turn this nut clockwise. Only twist there very gently, literally by division or even half a division. And it is better to outline where he started to twist. In general, if there is a working out in a worm or a shaft, then it will not help there, you squeeze the rail, it will spin harder, but the backlash will not really go away, and the pump will pump harder and it can die.
Maximka 17 Dec 2015, 12:45
tysum 17 Dec 2015, 12:51
tysum 17 Dec 2015, 13:01
Mr_nice_guy wrote:
Turn this nut clockwise. Only twist there very gently, literally by division or even half a division. And it is better to outline where he started to twist. In general, if there is a working out in a worm or a shaft, then it will not help there, you squeeze the rail, it will spin harder, but the backlash will not really go away, and the pump will pump harder and it can die.
Mr_nice_guy 17 Dec 2015, 13:29
There was the same garbage with a fat, a tightening does not help, I tried it for myself, the restoration of the rail solved the issue. I won't say anything about turning. Knocking can cause worn bushings and tightening has nothing to do with them. It is better to give the rail for restoration or try to find a live one.
Maximka 17 Dec 2015, 13:31
Kulichok 17 Dec 2015, 13:33
Edelweiss 17 Dec 2015, 13:49
tysum 17 Dec 2015, 13:54
Mr_nice_guy 17 Dec 2015, 13:55
Reiku bu is a cat in a poke, I changed the reiku and it passed me as many as 5 thousand km and rattled, although it was removed from the car with low mileage. Previously, they cost 100 tanks, that is, 800-1000 UAH, which was normal, now they are asking from 2500 and there are no guarantees, you can arrange a storage of rails in the garage. Repair costs 2000 UAH. Those who normally restore, change everything there, check it under pressure and give a guarantee, they gave me 40 thousand. If the shaft of the khan, they don’t even take it for repairs.Well, so everyone decides for himself.
Edelweiss 17 Dec 2015, 16:02
BMW steering rack repair. If you notice knocks or leaks in the steering rack, do not immediately run to a car service and install a new one, try to repair it yourself. In this article, we will consider the procedure for repairing the steering rack using the BMW e46 as an example.
The main factors indicating the presence of malfunctions of the BMW steering rack are considered to be a characteristic knock from the front or right side of the suspension or an oil leak. When these signs appear, do not panic ahead of time. The cause of the noise may be the simple loosening of the rail from external influences. Such a defect is corrected by a banal adjustment of a special screw. The cause of the leak may be a worn steering rack oil seal, which is not difficult to replace.
Dismantling the steering gear
If the above signs are found, the nature of the breakdown should be identified. Before starting the BMW steering rack repair procedure (as a car equipped with airbags), first lock the wheels in the “straight” position, then remove the ignition key from the lock. Ignoring this requirement can lead to damage to the loop that signals the driver's airbag, up to its rupture.
We dismantle the steering mechanism, for this:
1. We put the car on a viewing ditch or lift. 2. Pump out the fluid from the power steering reservoir. 3. We dismantle the front wheels and remove the tie rod ends. 4. We unscrew the nuts and bolts holding the shaft and body bracket and remove the bracket together with the steering wheel and shafts. 5. Unscrewing the nuts from the side of the hood, we separate the steering gear from the front of the body. 6. We feed the steering mechanism forward until the gear comes out of the front of the body. 7. Remove the steering gear by pulling it in the direction of the right wheel. All dismantled parts must be rinsed, you can blow it with compressed air.
Steering rack repairbmw
We drain the liquid, remove the rail, thoroughly wash it, in particular, in order to make it easier to find defects.
We unscrew all the parts that can be unscrewed.
On the right you will see a retaining ring, remove it.
On top of the worm, we take out the plastic centering sleeve (be sure to remember its position) and see the retaining ring, remove it. We unscrew the cap from below, then the worm nut and carefully knock it out.
Then, at the right end of the rail, we begin to slowly remove the flange with the bushing and the stuffing box, pulling the shaft towards ourselves.
Removing the seal and bushing
We install new parts in the same way. I pressed it in with my hands, resting the flange on the table. We clean the rail inside with gasoline. There is another oil seal in the center of the rail, I knocked it out with a long-handled screwdriver. A new oil seal can be installed in two ways: with a shaft or a head (you need to wrap it with paper tape to avoid damage to the mirror). In our case, the second method was used, it seemed more practical and convenient.
If there are defects on the worm or on the shaft, rubbing (belt) from seals, these places should be polished with abrasive sandpaper 2000. The piston rings (let's call them that) on the shaft and worm, in my case, were in good condition, so I did not touch them .
We replace oil seals, fluoroplastic (kaprolon) elements with new ones from rem. Kit, and also lubricate the bearings with pentosin.
Now we begin to insert the shaft, wrapping the teeth with paper tape in advance, so we do not damage the inner oil seal. There are two ways to wrap the teeth: lubricate them a little with pentosin or oil and wind the tape. Thus, we get a kind of cover that can be easily removed. Or we glue paper tape with a strip in several layers on the gear part of the shaft.
It's time to insert the worm. If necessary, it can be rotated 180 degrees if there are signs of wear (in my case, I did not turn it over). To do this, as I indicated above, it is necessary to remember (mark) the position of the plastic guide of the worm.
Be sure to treat the gear pair with new grease.I lubricated with bright green Kastrol lithol, in theory it should contain lithium additives. The price is about 300 rubles.
The photo shows the contents of two original ZF kits for one rail. Zap. parts can be purchased at>
Club Pride
Club Posts: 8830 Registration: 1.8.2005 From: Lithuania (Visaginas) - Piter (SW)
Club Pride
User Posts: 3283 Registration: 2.2.2004 From: Moscow
a similar situation - I decided to buy a new one.
the experience of repairing the rail on the Opel - it was enough for 30,000 km - IMHO thrown out money, although it might just be unlucky, especially since this is not a gur, not some other lotion - but very good. responsible steering unit !
Club Pride
Club Posts: 8830 Registration: 1.8.2005 From: Lithuania (Visaginas) - Piter (SW)
Club Pride
moderator Posts: 10869 Registration: 13.4.2006 From: Pskov-European Union
Club Pride
Club Posts: 8830 Registration: 1.8.2005 From: Lithuania (Visaginas) - Piter (SW)
Honorary Citizen
User Posts: 298 Registration: 12/16/2005 From: Baku
analogous, but I just pulled it up, it seemed to help but not very much, so I'm going to either change or restore
Club Pride
User Posts: 3283 Registration: 2.2.2004 From: Moscow
you are confusing something - there is no pendulum in this mechanism!
and the backlash during your check may be due to
1. backlash in the cardan of the steering shaft
3. play in the steering rod joints (tips)
5. play in the wheel bearing
if you check the steering, then you must first understand where the backlash occurs, otherwise the rail is not a cheap pleasure 😉
Club Pride
Club Posts: 8830 Registration: 1.8.2005 From: Lithuania (Visaginas) - Piter (SW)
Club Pride
Club Posts: 8830 Registration: 1.8.2005 From: Lithuania (Visaginas) - Piter (SW)
analogous, but I just pulled it up, it seemed to help but not very much, so I'm going to either change or restore
analogous, but I just pulled it up, it seemed to help but not very much, so I'm going to either change or restore
Top .. on the rail. head on 17
Honorary Citizen
User Posts: 363 Registration: 23.3.2006 From Baku
analogous, but I just pulled it up, it seemed to help but not very much, so I'm going to either change or restore
Top .. on the rail. head on 17
Just watch, don't drag! I was overtightened, and at low speeds (10-30), going around small bumps, an incomprehensible creak appeared, and the steering wheel almost did not return.
A little loosened up and it's gone.
Authority
User Posts: 791 Registration: 21.3.2006 From: Ukraine, Chernivtsi
Club Pride
Club Posts: 8830 Registration: 1.8.2005 From: Lithuania (Visaginas) - Piter (SW)
Permanent Resident
User Posts: 165 Registration: 10.2.2006 From: Tallinn, Estonia.
By the way, I have a similar problem.
Steering rack on the E34 M30 engine.
Everything is fine, and the splines at the cross are normal, but when I drive lightly to the sides, I lightly tap something.
He climbed under the car, checked the cross, took hold of it and moved it to the sides, caught inside some kind of block after the cross.
They say that there is some kind of nut to tighten.
Turning off everything that can be turned off.
On the right there is such a retaining ring, pull it out.
On top of the worm, remove the plastic centering sleeve (you need to remember its initial position), there we see the retaining ring, remove it.
We wrap the cap from below, then the worm nut and begin to gently knock it out.
Next, at the right end of the rail, we begin to pull out the flange with the bushing and the stuffing box, pulling the shaft towards ourselves. This is what this thing looks like.
We take out the oil seal and the bushing. We press in new parts in the same way. I pressed it in by hand, putting the flange on the table. We carefully rinse the rail inside with gasoline. Head (be sure to wrap it with paper tape to avoid damage to the mirror).
If there are abrasions (girdle) from the stuffing boxes on the shaft or on the worm, it is necessary to polish them with abrasive sandpaper 2000. ) elements on those that are in the repair kit + bearings, we lubricate them with pentosin. Next, we begin to carefully insert the shaft, after wrapping the teeth with paper tape so as not to spoil the inner oil seal. wind the adhesive tape around it. As a result, you get something similar to a cover, which is then not difficult to remove. Or, we glue paper tape on the toothed part of the shaft in several layers.
We begin to insert the worm. If desired, it can be turned 180 degrees if there is a suspicion of wear (I didn’t turn it over myself), for this, as I wrote above, you need to remember the position of the plastic worm guide. Be sure to lubricate the gear pair with new grease. I used a bright green Kastrol lithol for this, theoretically it should be with lithium additives.
In this photo report, you will learn all the main points on how to make steering rack repair do-it-yourself on a BMW 3 series car in the back of an e46. The reasons that prompted us to this action are constant smudges and knocking from the steering rack. It is worth noting that this device in almost all cases lends itself to partial repair, and not a complete replacement. Which we will show you.
To this topic, you can also watch a video about the repair of the BMW E46 steering rack.
as promised I post a mini report on my rail repair.
experimental: rail gur'a from e36 / 46 (here it must be said that the e46 had the same rails with a number of 3.25, but the air was passed between the anthers through the cavity in the rod of the rail, and not through the rail body as on the e36. there is also one difference but about it later)
I will not rewrite the points described above 1-4, I will only add: 5. wear of the rack housing in the spool area.
there are caprolon (fluoroplastic) rings on the spool, they are sealing and must rotate together with the spool. But in view of the fact that there were filters in some of the early tanks of the gur, but now they are not (a statement that I have not verified, I just heard from someone), then dust and debris when unscrewing the cap, pouring in atf, replacing / disconnecting / connecting hoses, not filtered out, but circling around. Thanks to the dust called “silver” from the natural wear of the pump, as well as mostly from the debris brought in, the housing wears out. when installing new rings on the spool, when installing the latter into the body, depending on the depth of the grooves, the rings can simply be pulled up with sharp edges, or if it so happens that the wear is not very large (not deep grooves), then the maximum that can be achieved by a bulkhead is the absence of a rail leak, and how the rail was spinning a bit tight at some speed, or only in one direction, or buzzing, so it will continue to do so. because the seals (fluoroplastic rings) let the gur's goo through, although they shouldn't.
In general, after sorting out my rack for the second time, I was puzzled by the question of finding a living body. It was possible to take the path of least resistance - to buy a Jewish car rail from E46 and not blow into the mustache. but I'm a "drocher" - as some call me and "here you have nothing more to do." in the 36th service, I begged for a bunch of finished rails that they did not have time to throw out, out of 5 buildings, not one was without wear. - Well, it cannot be that no one bothered at least with the restoration of the buildings, well, everyone should repair them. I said to myself and began to wool the Internet and offices (neva among them) In general, everyone sent me, and the Neva and the Internet, not a single word about the repair of the hull. A new rail costs around 15k, you can, of course, strangle a toad, slobber and buy, but. Externally, the whole rail, there was no special knock. Well flowed, well, fuck her. I'm that wanker
I thought of turning the hull, everything is simple, by analogy with the lining of engine blocks, boring the hull, making a sleeve and landing. omit the moment of search and prices for this pleasure))))
I have the rack housing with a steel bushing in my hands, half satisfied, it remains to assemble everything and test my theory in action.
it turned out like this:
assembling and disassembling the rail is nothing complicated, the most difficult thing is to jerk off without any extra effort to pick out two retaining rings and pick up how to knock out the old oil seals, and actually how to put them back in place. during the bulkhead, I used this repair kit: 501448016 at a price of 600 rubles earlier, when bulkheading, I also used more expensive kits, differences in the number of ingredients in the kits, material, and size. was not noticed. Does it make sense then to pay 1000-2000 rubles?
Rake assembled, installed, and the second day run-in. much softer, the rumble disappeared. the only thing I have is a finished pump, at idle the steering wheel is noticeably tight, there is not enough pressure, but here already, or look for a worker. again, a cat in a poke or a new one.
A few words about a pair of worm-rake. wear, in principle, is visible there, if the steps / workings are not felt with your finger, then you can not bathe and assemble it back (I had a worm with a working, put the worm from another rail, left the old stem) and also replaced the spring with a more strong.
that's essentially all. nothing complicated, the rake bulkhead takes a couple of hours if with beer.
BMW cars are among the most reliable cars in the world, but even they are not alien to the concept of repair. Especially when it comes to issues such as bmw steering rack repair. The main reason for this lies not at all in poor quality, but rather in the incorrect handling of them during operation.
What causes steering rack failures? Firstly, the poor condition of the roads, which today, although it has become much less of a problem than 20 years ago, still does not reach the ideal. Secondly, the frequent retention of the steering wheel in a state of maximum emphasis. And, thirdly, the elementary wear of the mechanical and hydraulic parts, the accumulation of dirt, dust, etc. It is worth saying that a malfunction of the steering rack can provoke a serious accident, which you will agree is not very pleasant. In order to prevent this situation, it is recommended to inspect the assembly to determine whether it is required BMW steering rack repairat least once every half a year.
What is a BMW steering rack repair? This process includes a number of activities: diagnosing, identifying faults and their causes, determining the stability of the rack operation processes, as well as cleaning from contamination, replacing and repairing parts, and subsequent testing in working conditions.
Perhaps the main symptom of steering rack failure is the occurrence of characteristic tapping in the front suspension, which occurs as a result of mechanical wear. In addition, there may be difficult rotation and play of the steering wheel, increased noise from the power steering pump, as well as leakage of power steering fluid from the rack housing.
By the way, it is not at all necessary that all these signs indicate a rack malfunction, it is quite possible that it simply loosened up from vibrations during movement. And that means BMW steering rack repair won't be too burdensome.
Whether you need bmw e36 steering rack repair or bmw e39 steering rack repair, it will in any case begin with a diagnosis of the condition. To carry it out, the rail is dismantled and subjected to initial cleaning from possible contaminants. Next, a visual inspection and testing is carried out on special equipment, where conditions are artificially created that simulate the working condition.
The repair process may include the repair and replacement of defective parts, surface grinding, replacement of seals and lubricants, bushings, etc. At the end of all work, the steering rack is mounted back, and after filling in the hydraulic fluid, it is tested to determine the correctness of the repair.
In some cases, rail repair can even be done independently, but only if the malfunctions are minor. In case of serious malfunctions, in order to obtain an accurate diagnosis, you should only contact the service center.
Feedback from a car owner named Illarion: Drove 124,000 km, replaced only the hub bearing.
Category: Car repair
Characteristics of the car: The dimensions of the car are as follows, body length - 3554, width - 1100, height - 1782 mm. The wheelbase is 2253 mm. Ground clearance 128 mm. The car is equipped with a hybrid powertrain. The 4-cylinder engine is equipped with a system that provides the output power of the motor. There are 4 valves per cylinder. The diameter of one cylinder is 77 mm, the piston stroke is 77 mm. The crankshaft of the engine accelerates to 6000 rpm. The maximum torque is maintained up to 4000 rpm.
Posted by admin: at the request of Paul
Original title: Reparation steering rack til BMW E36 dine egne hönder
Release date: 05/12/2014
Video (click to play).
Laughter in the subject: Looking at his wife, he made the following conclusion: Only a woman, having discussed the topic on the phone for twenty minutes, can say to her friend: “Okay, we’ll talk at the meeting - this is not a telephone conversation.”